Mercedes Sprinter - New Disc Brakes and Pads
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- How to replace the brake discs and pads on a 2008 Mercedes Sprinter Camper Van. We fit new Brembo discs and pads all round. I walk you through the process step by step, very easy to do at home.
SAFETY NOTICE - It is not good practice to raise your jack as I have in this video.
DO NOT COPY THIS! The bricks can crumble or give way at any time.
I have now purchased the correct size jack for our Europe trip.
Please be safe and always use axle stands when working under your van.
The brake parts and tools that I have used in this video can be found on the links below -
Mercedes Sprinter Brake Discs and Pads - rover.ebay.com...
Brake calliper piston spreader tool - rover.ebay.com...
Telescopic Wheel Brace - rover.ebay.com...
Triple QX brake cleaner - rover.ebay.com...
Triple Qx Copper Grease - rover.ebay.com...
Disclosure - As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase using the above affiliate link. Thank you for supporting our channel.
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Thank you very much for watching
#gregvirgoe #vanlife #tinyhome
SAFETY NOTICE - It is not good practice to raise your jack as I have in this video.
DO NOT COPY THIS! The bricks can crumble or give way at any time.
I have now purchased the correct size jack for our Europe trip.
Please be safe and always use axle stands when working under your van.
Thanks for watching 😀
I'm never ever ever ever gonna do this myself. That goes for all the stuff you do and build. Why do I keep watching all your instruction video's right until the end? No idea but consider it as a compliment for all your efforts. From the Netherlands I wish you all the best on your travels through Europe.
Fantastic compliment, thank you.
Do you mind me asking what brought you to my videos, are you doing a van conversion?
No not at all. We do like to rent (preferably the VW's T4 or T5) but no ambition to own one. Came across your video's as I do a lot of you-tubing on Van-life, Van conversions, restorations, etc. Yours stand out for your detailed planning, patience and craftsmanship. Very enjoyable. Keep it up.
@@bristocamino9376 Hiya,
5 years on and i found this vid by chance haha. If you're looking for a reliable MPV to use as either a normal driving or camper conversion then look into Nissan Elgrand E51. It's like a hotel on wheels and a fraction of the price of VW Transporters!
Picked up my new OEM break pads for our 2014 MB Sprinter and planned to swap them out this weekend. So far one of the better vids i found on the subject. Thank you for taking the time to create this.
Wow,
I am feeling very accomplished.
Thank you so much from across the Atlantic 😊.
Just did the passenger side.
Bought my 2015 sprinter used in November.
I don't think these rear rotors were ever changed. You 20 minutes was my 6 hours of rusted frozen bolts.
But I persevered and got my passenger side done.
It's dark, so tomorrow to the next side.
I'm praying 🙏 the other side won't be hard.
Plenty of penetrating fluid and leave to soak for a bit. A shock with a few hammer blows also helps. 👍🏼😃
Replace the drivers side today. Took 2 hours😅. Not as rusty. Yay.
@@time.528 That's good to hear, glad you got them all sorted ok, well done.
I always leave the hub cap off so I remember to check the wheel nut torque after a few miles. Great video.
I can't buy another torque wrench when I have one buried in the storage unit that I can't find cos I know what will happen I'll buy it and the one I've already got will miraculously appear in front of me lol
@@GregVirgoe my point was to check them after a few miles, not that important to use a torque wrench but definitely check after a couple of journeys.
Very wise and a good point, I'm glad I've got you guys here watching my back, thank you
You would be an excellent professor with your attention to the important details!
Thank you 🙏🏼
Great video, Greg. It's lovely to see people share these kind of videos. :-)
I would recommend to always check the activation arm, for the brake shoes. They are notorious for getting stuck. Also remember to adjust the parking brake(cable and brake shoes), after a change of brake disks. Last and not least; check, clean and lubricate the glider pins.
No
Hi Greg,
Great video, as always. Here’s a couple of suggestions for the future.
Even if you regularly bleed your brakes, the fluid that is in the cylinder will be in a bit of a ‘dead leg’. Therefore, when I do this job, rather than forcing what is almost always filthy fluid back up towards the master cylinder, I crack the local bleed nipple open so that, when I push the piston back, it expels the worst fluid out of the cylinder and into a jamjar for disposal. It’s usually much easier to push the piston back that way too - path of least resistance for the fluid - and prevents worry of overflowing the master cylinder reservoir.
Also, once when I was when putting new seals, pistons and gaiters in, the manufacturer of those advised me that the mechanics’ favourite trick of using copper grease for anti-squeal and brake lugs (combined with red rubber grease on the rubber components) is best avoided and they recommended that the only grease you should ever put anywhere near brake components is silicone grease. (I generally find that the easiest/cheapest is from a plumbers’ merchant for fitting rubber-sealed plastic pipe parts together.)
They told me that this is because copper grease is mineral-based and always migrates. Once even small amounts get to the rubber components, it causes them to fail, so you end up with split gaiters letting water in and the next thing you have is corrosion, seized slider pins and failing seals in the cylinders. They also said that the classic ‘red rubber grease’ that people tend to use on the rubber parts goes stiff within a couple of years and, again, you end up with a caliper that won’t slide, so just use silicone there too.
If you ever need individual brake components (that often aren't supplied by your dealer spares department anyway), I’ve found BiggRed.co.uk in Worcester to be very helpful, with an extensive range of individual caliper parts.
Regards,
David.
As always Greg you do an amazing job detailing the subject you are working on. You did a good job replacing the discs, they were really rusty. Cheers from Portugal!
Than you very much Daniel, really appreciate your feedback.
@@GregVirgoe And we appreciate the work you have put to bring us such detailed videos of your work ;)
I feel much more confident now. I know i could do this myself if needed. Great video
Greetings from Belgium
Erik
Thank you very much Erik, best wishes
@@GregVirgoe thx. Best wishes and great trips for you :-)
Very nice and easy to learn thanks again
You are welcome 🙏🏼
Great video. I've never seen a brake job done before and really learned a lot.
I'm pleased that you found it to be interesting. 😊
As always, well done video and good job on the brakes. Thanks for all the good information and ideas you always provide.
Thanks very much Ron
Really enjoy your videos. Literally building the van I've been dreaming of building for awhile with the motorcycle in the back and everything. When I do get to finally build it, itll be nice to look to these videos for how to do it. Thankyou!
Thank you for your support and good luck with your future build.
Hi I have just enjoyed watching your video thank you for your knowledge. I just wanted to mention to spray paint the surfaces that are metal to metal it helps to prevent rust and when serving the breaks your self its easier to dismantle.
Or just a bit of oil 😅
Hi good video. brake disc/drum dosent always slip off so easily. Sometimes need to back off the handbrake adjusters through a wheel stud hole!
Also check there is no corrosion beneath the wheel cylinder dust seal. If any is present wheel cylinder may stick and cook your new brakes!
Safety first! An awesome channel, thank you very much for sharing every step from the conversion process.
Appreciate your kind comment Pavel
Thanks so much my van failed on the mot because of brakes and im making the job myself Great info 💪🏼
Thank you so much for sharing. I am working on the suspension of my vehicle, and this bit is helpful.
🚐🚐🚐
I had my speakers on my phone; and I swear I thought that jerk down the street was coming down my street again with his stereo system blasted, but it was coming from the video, lol. You have more patience than I do, because I will be out there shaking my fist at them. Lol
It is such a busy main road, it's a cut through that lots of people use and it's also a main bus route, many times I have to re-take a shot because of either police sirens, loud music or ice cream vans going by
@@GregVirgoe understandable. We live near a busy main street and traffic comes through often with the same. So I know what you have to go through. 😬😬
Great Vid Greg as always mate, educational for those that have never changed pads or discs too..
I did want to explain a little what each part does for those that have never seen what they look like or done them before, hope that came across ok?
Why do you make everything look so easy ???? Great Vid as always!!
Everything is easy - except for the stuff that is hard. 😥
It really isn't difficult Roger, this is one that anyone could do with proper instructions and save a fortune in garage fees.
Sometimes the nuts are very hard to break free, but that's the only problem, having the right tools does make the job easier too.
Thx Greg great confidence builder. Just quoted £600 so gonna buy tools and do myself
You're a legend Greg. Brilliant as always, big help.
I just redone mine today after 4yrs and 40k mikes the pads are still in good condition. 👍🏼😊
Thank you very much for this video!
Ali Ramezani you are welcome👍🏼
Doing mine shortly, thank you for a great detailed video Greg....always very helpful.👍
You are most welcome 🤗 hope all goes well 👍🏼
Thanks for a very informative video
I’m pleased you liked it 👍🏼😊
One thing to add. Before pushing the caliper piston back in get a toothbrush and Simple Green and clean it up. This will help keep the caliper seals lasting longer.
Thank you, these are all very good tips that will help us make a better job next time, cheers
Thank you for sharing Greg, I watched this knowing you would describe it in such a way that even us Joiners would understand, I might give it a go myself the next time and save myself a few hundred quid 👍😄
Thanks Gary, yeah I recon I saved about £450 doing this myself. 👍🏼😃
Excellent work, Greg. Thanks for all the great videos with clear and concise info and demonstration. As you Brits love to say ... Brilliant !
Thank you David :D
Good tidy work Greg as usual; I have watched all your van conversion videos and really enjoy them. - I have worked on vehicles all my life and, if I were you, I would be completely replacing the brake fluid. It might never have been done before, and with your long journey and heavy load, it would be a wise move. Going down a long gradient would generate lots of heat in your brake system, any moisture in the fluid will boil quickly and you end up loosing stopping power. Cheers.
Not going to lie, your hand untightening and tightening up made me flash back to Steve Austin.😁 Very much just dated myself!. Another job well done and instructions clear.
Mi Wei, that was one of my favourite programs, remember the titles when the space ship crashes and they say they can rebuild him lol classic TV they don't make em like that anymore 😃
Had that same thought with the sped-up human/cyborg lug wrench effect! (-:
Harve Bennett: Steve Austin, astronaut. A man barely alive.
Oscar Goldman: We can rebuild him. We have the technology. We can make him better than he was. Better, stronger, faster.
Mi Wei, that should have been announced over my gym session this morning 😂 lol
We have a different Steve Austin over here on the other side of the pond.
This is my next job on the van .. 😊
It’s not too difficult if you have the right tools. 👍🏼😃
Greg,,,The words on your T-shirt is what Picasso said when he looked up at the interior of the Sistine Chapel,,, Best Regards
Old Guy, I love it 😂 lol
It's what I say every time the misses asks how long I'm going to be, so she got the original one printed as a surprise one Xmas.
Michaelangelo!
Just did the front brakes on my girl`s VW Polo last weekend, left side took me 2.5hrs, right side just half an hour...that one disc came off only with desperate hammering...
:-D
Took me wonder, that the high-priced Brembo discs didn`t came with new grub screws!
One thing to mind is that the wear sensor cables are very flimsy, the one on the old pad break off before i got the connector apart...Luckily, that Polo had only one sensor on the left side...
:-P
Using gloves on doing the brakes makes really sense, it`a messy job...
In the end, the Polo was on new brakes for only 105€, VW shop called for the parts 170€ plus works...
:-0
Thx for your vid!
;-)
Horst Szibulski, yes I have had ones that are really hard to get off, I was lucky with the sprinter. Mine came with new grub screws but they were the wrong size? You made some good savings, happy to help
Greg I used to work in the automotive industry. The little screw that holds the drum on to the hub, I think you called a "hodge bolt", its only real purpose is to hold the drum onto the hub as it goes down the assembly line. It is not needed to be replaced if you break it off trying to get it out. Just a friendly fyi. But as always on UA-cam, consult a professional with any advise given on here.
I did think that its only purpose was to hold the disc in place while you put everything else back together, let face it that tiny screw is not holding anything really.
Your 6 wheel bolts are doing all the hard work here. :D
But it do tend to make it much much easier to put your wheels back on, so taht the disc doesn't rotate ever so slightly. :-) :-)
Especially on vehicles with bolts, instead of nuts.
@@kennethskou5597 Agree but spend about 2 hours trying to chisel them off my wifes Honda (Honda has two per rotor) and you will learn to hate them. They got chucked right in the rubbish container as soon as I got them out. Cheers to you all from the USA.
@ Sgt. Stones Haha, rusty automotive parts, tends to get the worst of my personality turned on.
A few "nice" try, then some swearing, then chip my fingers and THEN i bring out the power tools. :-) :-)
Thanks bud I’m glad you made a video as I need to change my crafter brakes and pads :)
Great job- a job I once thought I could never do now seems achievable because of you video Greg.
*I noticed the wear on the brake pedal rubber, if both pedals have the same profile swap around the rubbers on clutch and brake pedal so there is an unused part where your foot naturally hits the pedal when coming off the throttle. Worn rubbers used to be the Gestapo vehicle tester's favourite sneaky fail when I took vehicles into for a taxi MOT test.*
I will have a look at that, thank you for pointing it out for me 👍🏼😊
Here in AU, at least in Victoria, a worn rubber pedal will result in a fail in roadworthy certificate.
It probably looks worse on that dark bit of video than it actually is in reality. Cheers guys
Most important part missed did check the sliders were seized or not
I have overheated LWB Sprinter brakes on the steep hills of Devon before now. When the time comes I will be thinking of vented discs for my MWB. Like you said, the additional weight doesn't help if your brakes aren't up for it.
The fronts are vented discs as they always take most of hard work when breaking. You can get them with cooling holes too. 😀
Hi Gregg. Great video, very informative and easy to follow. I'll be cracking on with this over the weekend. Thanks 👍🏽 Matt
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! EXTREAMLY USEFUL! I'M NOT RICH BUT WANT TO BUY A SPRINTER VAN SOON TO TAKE HER ACCROSS AMERICA, AS SHE MAY NOT BE WELL. AGAIN THANK YOU! NEW SUB FROM 641...ALWAYS THUMBS UP!!!
Thank you for watching and good luck on your trip 👍🏼😃
Hi Greg,
After watching your video I decided to tackle my 2011 sprinter brakes myself as the front brakes was getting bad and discs needed replacing. The front carrier bolts was a nightmare took ages to brake free but I stuck with it and eventually they broke free.
The sensor wires I couldn’t remember how they was routed from front to back or just from the same side as they plug in. So I think I may have not connected them properly as my low brake pad light is still on on the dash.
The rear brakes I couldn’t get the disk off at all as it seems the handbrake pads must need slacken off to get the disk off but the slackening adjuster must be seized. I couldn’t move it. So just chained the pads on the back for now. Brakes work fine now just a few hiccups. First time I have had a go at this. Will have another look at them front sensors 😁
Love your videos very helpful
Might suggest a smear of copper grease between the disc and hub, so it's easier to get off when you need to inspect the handbrake brake shoes. Also a little smear of copper grease on the threads of the little disc retaining set screw.
Great advice, thanks for sharing that, cheers
Good job mate but next time grease the slider pin bolts as these can seize. Also crack the bleeder before pushing piston back into the caliper as this stops all the scummy dirty fluid being pushed back into the master cylinder.
Thanks for the tips Ash 👍🏼
Mate your a super star great video your amazing
Glad you liked it 👍🏼🤩
Great tutorial!
Thank you 🙏🏼
Nice one Greg - I would have reused those pads tbh.👍
Norman Boyes, I have kept them for spares 👍🏼😊
Wow Greg, you make it look so easy yet again :) Thanks for this great video.
Maybe it's fear of the unknown that puts people of doing these jobs themselves as they are quite straightforward once you know what everything does.
very well done! thank you sir!
Thank you very much Ivan
In the trade we used to put a thin smear of copper ease on the wheel bolt threads too.
I wasn't sure if that was ok to do in my mind I thought it might not make them secure enough?
@@GregVirgoe - it can be quite a point of debate between mechanics. My old bosses reasoning and his bosses before him, was it provides anti sieze, and also if they are torqued to correct torque setting the grease will provide a minuscule amount of lubrication so they will tighten minutely tighter. So tightening force should net-out but you still have the convenience of a bolt that shouldn't sieze in. He worked on trucks, vans and cars throughout his professional career so I trust his advice.
I'm sure you will hear different in these comments if due course!
This is the view of many mechanics who work in the industry day in day out.
However according to manufacturers manuals they should be clean dry threads.
I can totally see benefits but for this video I have to stick with handbook for the H&S police 👍🏼😊
Tks so much for making this video..
As always a top quality tutorial, thanks for this.
You are welcome cliff
I'd have put money on you pimping those calipers with some hammerite 😎👍🏻 Great video as usual Greg 👌
The thought did cross my mind John, maybe if I get some nice new alloys 😁
Are they on your Christmas list 😁🚙
I wish they were mate it’s crying out for a bit of bling ✨🌟⭐️
I almost bought some for our van, then found wheel trims that look like the alloys I like (£700) and the trims have reflectors in the centre for a bit of safety. I figured once the trims look scruffy I might have saved up enough for the alloys. 👍🏻
Great video thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Glad you liked it Garry
Great video as usual. Keep in mind that the handbrake pads should he adjusted after changing the discs.
Yes, you are right we did adjust the position of the handbrake shoes but sorry didn't show this.
Prolly the most simple video of how to doit !!!! Thumbs up n subs defiantly.
Nice work as always, nearly ready for the road 👌👌
A carpenters hammer!!!!
Great video
13:31 With my Napa kit today, the clips were a little too narrow for my UK spec 2010 313. I just cleaned the old ones and re-fitted.
If that another aftermarket set I’ve not heard of before.
@@GregVirgoe One think I did find was that the inner pad did not fit in properly. This was due to rust blowing outwards, particularly in the lower channel. An old chisel dressed it up nicely.
great video, thanks
Should have taken out your brake slider pins cleaned and re greased with silicon grease , they have a habit of sticking either top or bottom which gives uneven pad ware ,
Thank you John, very sound advice. Cheers
While I understand your reasons for changing the parts, MOT sounds like a complete PITA. Judging by the condition of the rotors you replaced, any car in New York State (i.e. rust belt) would fail inspection.
Tune into some South Main Auto videos to see first hand.
Have a great trip & looking forward to more content from you.
Nice one Greg as always 👍 It was like the modern version of an Haynes manual 😀
I can’t believe you haven’t got a torque wrench LOL Lou there’s an idea for his Christmas present 🎁 👍
Best regards you two from us 3 👍😀🐾
Truth be told, I have got one Dave but it’s buried in our storage unit and I couldn’t lay my hands on it easily 😊
Best wishes to you all
LOL I new you would have one you are the legend that is Greg Virgoe 👍
No torque wrench?? I can't believe I have a tool that you don't :)
lol it was in my storage facility with the rest of our house and I could not lay my hands on it for this video.
@@GregVirgoe when you get a chance, at least verify the torque of the lugs...
If they're steel wheels you just tighten then well, non-steel wheels require torquing to a spec.
Torque 110 Nm or 140 ?
@@BrusselsSouthsteel wheels require 240 Nm for the sprinter
great vid Greg. going to put new pads in mine. will the warning break wear indicator now on my dash go out automatically when i put the new ware sensor on or do you have to reset it somehow from the dash? your warning light on your van wouldnt have been on because your pads wearnt low. cheers.
Stanly Kawazaki it will no longer be making the contact so it should reset.
video was helpful THANKS, but too bad you didn't go into replacing the parking brake shoes,,,, my 74 230 will be a challenge... Thanks, VW
I think in a later video I do show how to adjust the parking brakes
Good!
Feliz Natal para você e sua Família!
Abraços
i notice you didn't check the slide pins on the pad carrier to see if seized
A yorkshiremans daily grind I cleaned them and applied a little copper slip off camera
Well done my friend, jobs a goodun 👍🏼😊
Just a note, WD (Water disperser) is not a penetrating fluid. Using brake fluid and PB Blaster would be appropriate for this sort of job. Also, Sprinter owners are typically changing pads and roters all the time and not only pads.
Great video - Thanks !
Good video. Thanks. But you really should torque to specs with a proper torque wrench.
Nice job!
Thank you
Mechanic Greg 👍😄
Not first today Kat, your slipping lol
@@GregVirgoe 😜
I was interested to see your rear wear sensor was on the inside pad. I have a 2018 sprinter owned by me from new. The wear sensor is on the OUTSIDE pad. I’m wondering if that’s why the brembo pads and discs I fitted squeal really badly? I’m a former mechanic from the 80’s. I did everything correctly. I’m a bit flummoxed now?
I guess if the pads are symmetrical in shape there is the potential to put them in on either side. Only an exploded parts diagram could answer which is right.
Great video...... but can I point out you didn't check the sliding pins were free (or didn't show this)
Chris Eastwood yes, it was just not filmed. Thank you
Great video as always! Was wondering if those were 300 diameter discs or if the 298 diameter ones will do? Thanks man!
Very helpful Greg, I have the parts ready for fitting them in the spring, I have a squeaky rear brake at the moment, but I'm unsure whats causing the sound I get a low speeds.
The pads could be very low, you get the metal backing touching the metal fo the disc it can make them squeal at low speed.
You have to be careful not to score the surface of your discs, unless of course you plan to change both pads and discs anyway?
@@GregVirgoe I have new discs ready to fit, so will be ok, I will let you know how I get on Greg.
Michael Aldridge, plenty of WD40 to slacken your nuts and you'll be fine, read John Coloe post in the comments he has some good extra tips
I love hard work. I can watch it being done all night. 😉
Good job, Mr V. Did it only take half an hour?
Greg, great video. I spend some time trying to find a video about the brake setup before I would start on my own, but there are not many. Is the front setup the same (apart from the handbrake)? Oil filter and interior filter are really issue to swap as well. perhaps you can do a video on that
Different vans do have different setups too. On the sprinter there are only ventilated discs on the front, no drums and the calliper is held on with Allen bolt and not a hex head bolt, but very little difference in the process.
There is something satisfying about replacing the old grimy stuff with the shiny and new. How much do you reckon you save for not having a shop do this for you?
That’s a good point. I managed to buy the discs and pads when they were on 50% discount so that saved me £200 on the parts. If the garage added 25% margin that’s another £100 and 2hrs labour at £75/hr that’s a grand saving of £450 plus tax
So a considerable amount.
The job cost me £200 in parts plus my own time 😀
That's good to hear. I still remember going in for some new brake pads for $100 US that became a $500 ordeal, but that was around 10 years ago.
What about setting the handbrake ? Normally they wont come off that easy without untenstion the springs of the handbrakeshoes.
Mike I had the handbrake adjusted before the MOT
pads and disc look good, would you not of changed the shoes looks like they worst off all tks e.
Класс 👍 спасибо большое
I think it 165 Nm on them
What size are the bolts to take pads out x2
Mulțumesc
Thank you very much for the instruction....Question....How do I know whether the caliper pistons must be wound back like required on my Audi or if they can be just pushed back like on you have done.
usually, the piston has a couple of dimples in it that a small tool locates in to turn them back. I have a tool set with all different pin spacing for different types of cars get form auto spares place.
That answers my question, thank you very much again. M.
Garage near me wants 500 quid for one disc and set fitted .is that pricey?.
Great Video as always. Did you take any footage of draining the excess brake fluid that you mentioned?
Sorry Brian I didn’t. I used a small priming had pump and short piece of hose to suck the fluid out of the bottle into a jar.
Hi Greg
Thanks for another great video and a couple of things.
Have you any suggestions for getting the rear disks off when the hand brake is kinda seized. I have a sticky handbrake on mine and tried to take off the disk to sort it but couldn't get the brake shoes to release. I hammered and bashed at it for an hour before giving up.
Second, why do you pull up on the wheel brace to loosen or 'crack' the wheel nuts? Your a big strong guy so you can do it but many people would give themselves a hernia doing it that way. Why not put the wheelbrace to the left and push down?
You can even use your foot if your struggling to do it with your hand.
I've watched people struggle doing this several times and when I showed them the easy way they felt a bit silly.
Turn the hub around until you can see the handbrake pad adjusting sprocket through one of the stud holes and then use a screwdriver to wind them back in. Look up adjusting drum brakes if you get stuck.
I would do it your way if they were really stuck solid, but with the long wrench it was very easy to undo them, so not necessary to stand on the wrench. Its easy to round off the head of the bolt by standing on the wrench and it does fall off too.
@@GregVirgoe Thanks mate. As I was watching your video I guessed it would be something like that.
After all the bashing and swearing at it the handbrake isn't anywhere near as bad as before so hopefully can wait a bit.
When I went to loosen my wheel nuts I needed a meter long breaker bar and had to use all my weight to crack them. Probably fitted by a tyre shop windy gun. Grrrrr
Hi Gregg, very helpful as always. I notice on your newer video's that you have different wheels fitted. Can I ask where you bought them.
Nelson Van Dweller they are the same wheels. I just had the steel rims powder coated gloss black. It is in one of my videos. 😊
@@GregVirgoe Bugger! Can't believe I missed it. There are many vids to go through, could you narrow the field a little for me. I noticed that you already had them in Portugal as John mentioned you faffing with them.
@@GregVirgoe Found it Greg, it is in the "lorry crash" video. Tell me, if it was cheaper to buy brand new black steel wheels than to have the originals powder coated which way would you go? I only ask because I have this choice and I don't know enough about the choices to make an informed one. Is it just personal preference or is there more to it than that?
Nelson Van Dweller I paid £50 a wheel. Not sure you can buy new wheels cheaper than that?
Greg Virgoe hi Greg, “tyreleader” £45.09 inc. free delivery, although I’m not sure they will be as nice and glossy as yours are
Was them jack stands 4 ton or two 2 ton
You didn't bother to grease the handbrake adjuster or adjust the handbrake before you fitted the wheels why do you use brake clearer on the steel hud and not on the brake shoes pat Kelly
안녕 하세요.
South Korea
You did indeed brave the elements to make this tutorial for us, I could see the frost still on the grass and the cold in your breath. I guess with cold moring like this it's great to test your Truma Water and Cabin heater. Doing your own brakes saves you 100's an once anyone has done it once (pads or pads and discs) they will get a lot of mechanical confidence to harder jobs. Greg a tiny bit of Copper Grease on the Wheel nuts is a good idea also, check this video for the reason for that ua-cam.com/video/PnM_srEypA8/v-deo.html
I spoke too soon about the weather I was halfway through the other rear wheel, the heavens opened and it pissed down!
As I had it all apart I had to scramble to get it back together, I was drenched through to the skin.
I finished the fronts the next day. :D
Interesting video, the guy makes a great case for not lubing your nuts too and in this world of H&S for the purpose of this video I better stick to the manufaturer's manual guidance. My advice to anyone else would be get your self a decent wheel brace. :D
Hi Greg. So today I'm setting out my workshop I'm going to screwfix what would you recommend to buy tool wise? Bench saw? Mitre saw?
Hi James, if you have the space and finds a table Saw is much more versatile than a mitre Saw. You can cross cut on the table Saw with the mitre gauge so you can do everything the mitre Saw can do in one tool. A home made sled or panel cutting jig is great for accurate cross cuts.
This one is the same as I have SCHEPPACH HS105 255MM TABLE SAW 230V (7225J)
Thank you Greg u just missed your reply though and bought both lol not sure weather to take mitre saw back now? I only got a titan bench saw hope its upto the job
Oh good, you can do anything with those now. Have fun 😀
You forget the slidboldts...not good
I would have added some anti-seize on the bolts (and a bit behing the rotor).
Robert Currey good shout around the hub, the new bolts already had a red compound on them? I assumed this was a form of locktite?
@@GregVirgoe yea, if there are new "coated" bots I would have left as is also. On the lug nuts though, it is much nicer if you have to make a tire change on the side of a road to have them "anti-seized". Just a minor nit, but thought others might benefit from the discussion.
Never ever ever apply anti-seize (copper paste) between the disc and the flange, if that's what you mean.
Those 2 parts have to be metal to metal, because this connection is used for distributing the heat away from the disc when you are using your brakes. Especially with a fully loaded one like this.
And yes, I am a fully skilled mechanic if you wonder. :-) :-)
Otherwise a good job.
you really think that's true? 1. that the 'metal to metal connection' will be prevented by some copper grease? 2. that copper grease would block heat transfer in the areas where the 'metal to metal connection' wasn't achieved? I don't think so...
@@kennethskou5597 Copper is one of the better conductors of heat (better than steel, especially oxidised steel).