I have been a rail modeller since I was 8. Now in my 50s. I am perfectly happy with DC. One of the great secrets of DCC is that is a nightmare of problems and disappointment that you pay a king's random to have. Many modelers who spent so much money and effort on DCC are experiencing so many technical problems and extra costs that they secretly won't admit it or they wished they stuck with DC. I know several who wished they stayed with analogue. Let this sink in. I bought 10 yes TEN second hand and working 00 and HO locos in a job lot - all working - that cost less than a chap I know who paid the same amount of money for a sound chip for their fancy new 'DCC-ready' DMU (which alone cost 400 euro!)
Hello, you sound a similar age to myself. I am also a little dubious of the ease seemingly offered by DCC. The more I look into it, it seems highly complex to achieve what we do with DC. Modules connected to sub modules just to operate points. I have seen beneath large complex DCC layouts on UA-cam and am amazed by the shear amount of wiring. Also when sometimes watching live sessions, locos stopping for no reason, modules failing, these things do seem to happen at great expense. I think I'll stick to good old DC for now. Best regards to you
@@MrSnooze Stay Alive circuits in locos that are there in case the wheels hit a bit of dust and the engine start up process begins in the middle of an express run. Also shorts on point frogs can destroy both the DCC and sound chips in one go. A short in DC means the motor stops rotating until you pick it up and it's fine again as soon as it it back on the track. I still have the same Hornby Class 8 shunter I had as a little boy running on my layout today. Few services over the decades was all it needed.
I have the same two class 35's but I don't think they run quite as smooth as yours. I was most impressed by the long heavy trains they were pulling. Mine are very restricted in load pulling due to the hills on my layout. Excellent, thank you. Take care, David.
David, I think from your videos you are using nickel silver track. Of course lots of advantages with nickel silver rail but you miss out on the Tri-ang Magnadhesion benefits to haulage and to some extent pickup. Mr Snooze has these advantages and his plating method seems to be a big advantage over trying to find mint condition Super four track.
@@johnd8892 Hi John, My layout in it's current state has a mixture of code 100 nickel silver and brass track. It's old stuff I use while figuring out the exact track plan. I have Peco nickel silver to replace it with and am doing that slowly. None of this is good for the Tri-ang rolling stock but I have plenty of Super 4, series 3 and even standard track for those. What I lack is space to put it together. Maybe, one day. lol. Cheers John, David.
David, just a thought as I found with mine a lot of iron filings around the magnets in the power bogie, sorted amazing the difference, by the way the hymec is the best track cleaning weapon lol any loose pins or screws are magnet fodder, stay safe .
I have a mid 1970s “Hornby” era version of the Triang Hymek. It has factory fitted pick ups on the trailing bogie. It has always been a far better runner than its ring field motor younger sibling. For my money the Hymek was one of the best of the diesel outline models to come out of Margate. Excellent motor bogie and a very good representation of the prototype. Which I itself was one of the best looking diesels. A great video
Hello Andrew, I'm glad you still have your 1970's Hymek, they are great models. I think the motor is good too. They run very smoothly. Take care and all the best to you
I've two Hornby Hymeks both with magnahesion work brilliantly at all speeds both have a fantastic crawl speed,far better than any other models I have.Only ever run DC its good enough for me.
Hello Peter, it's good to hear you enjoy running the Hymeks too they are superb runners. I think a DC layout is great fun to operate. All the best to you
Nice to see some sympathetic upgrades to keep these golden oldies running well, and they certainly did run nice and smoothly. I look forward to seeing your lighting upgrades, sounds like an interesting little project.
Great to see the Hymeks. Nice to see the green Hymek hauling the HD western region stock. Particularly good to see the prototypical marshalling of the First Open next to the kitchen area of the restaurant car. I tend to agree about DC with these older models. I am building a layout in 0 and have gone for DCC but at some point want to construct a layout with my HD models. For a brief moment thought about converting them to DCC but, no, DC it needs to be-DCC just wouldn’t be quite right!
Hello Andrew, I must admit to a piece of luck with the arrangements of the coaches. You have taught me something interesting regarding the prototypical marshalling. I hope I can remember for the future. I'm glad you are sticking with DC too. All the best to you
@@MrSnooze It wasn't prototypical of anything we had at the time, so it was always a strange one. Around the same time (late 70's) Lima produced a Class 33 in Irish colours which again wasn't prototypical but was a bit closer to our Metropolitan Vickers 001 class.
Nice to see the slower running . Very nice running . The green one in particular must be hauling quite a weight . These coaches are heavy. I didn’t realise there was a plain green version , I thought they had yellow warning panels from introduction in 66. I’ve a 1976 Hymek that has the old motor, I think they switched to Ringfield around 77/78, and it has separate pick ups on bogie . I really don’t get the complexity of DCC . I work with computers all day . The last thing I want is to figure out CVs or grab a controller that looks like a calculator and figuring out how to operate it . With DC I just turn the controller knob and off we go!
Just checked with the Oscar Paisley vid on the green Hymek. Confirms my memory that it is likely from the period when the yellow warning panel and route indicator were sticky paper labels. So likely they did not stay stuck on in the past fifty or so years and are often lost. Announced in 1966 but not in the shops until 1967 and then for just one year before it was changed to rail blue. I remember the long wait for the green Hymek to appear.
@@johnd8892 Hymek did enter service without yellow panels , I just couldn’t remember Tri-ang Hornby making one , but the yellow stick labels falling off explains it . I had similar issue with my AL1 which is also a yellow sticker which I had to reattach. They would have been made around the same time I think
Hello Russell, a couple of people have mentioned the ringfield is not any better than the original motor to me in the past. I bet the stickers are lost, I'll look for some pictures. All the best to you
@@MrSnooze I haven’t got a Ringfield Hymek but it would be same as in the class 25 dating from about 1977. That does run better than my old Hymek but that’s probably really a sign I should service Hymek. It only gets occasional use these days. And probably needs an oiling .
Hi, I have just found your channel and subscribed, I dont see many DC locos being run at close to scale speed. You have shown that these older locos can be kept running and operate very well. The only problem with running the older Triang/Hornby Locos is they have deep wheel flanges which are not always suitable for running on the newer 100 code tracks. I would like to suggest that anyone considering starting a layout based on the Triang/Hornby era locos should also obtain the older track from the same period. I have a number of older locos that I bought when I started my layout 8 years ago, I later found why they were not running very well on my new tracks, it was down the the wheels. I have solved that problem by fitting new modern wheel sets to my Jintys and they run very smoothly. They were just laying unused in their boxes until being modified now they are run frequently. I can hear the purists screaming, however I believe its better to keep them running its also cheaper than buying new locos at todays prices. I only have 2 DCC locos but dont run them very much, I prefer my oldies and also run them at slow speed without any problems. I recently modified my old Class 37 that had a Ringfield motor fitted, it now has 2 Ringfield bogie assemblies and what a difference its made, its gone from a noisy poor puller to a quieter loco than will run very slowly while pulling 6 coaches with ease. I hope to follow the progress you make on your layout its a very interesting track plan. Stay safe, Paul.
Hello Paul, thanks for watching the video. The main reason I plumped for Super 4 track was to cover running older locos with the bigger flanges. I don't think its bad to change wheels or machine originals down if you want to keep older models running, it's part of the fun sometimes to modify items. I guess some people frown on altering things but sometimes evolving the older models is great fun and as you say it keeps them in use. It's amazing these items still run so well after all the years. They were made really well. I bet that class 37 can real pull a good rake with all that power. Best regards to you
Good evening Mr Snooze some terrific running. Its amazing it took them till the early seventies to add the extra pick ups. Looks like a great modification you have developed and very neat. What was the wheel type you replaced the original with. Looking forward to the next video. Oscar
Hello Oscar, I agree about the pickups, but they got there eventually. I used modern available pinpoint 12.6mm 3 hole wagon and coach wheels just one axle on the bogie. All the best to you
Hmm: 1/ Probably a good idea to add pickup on other trailing axle, and to run a conservative duty cycle. 2/ I have good running and crawl starts/stops with Don Hansen's transistor throttle in Kalmbach's Model Railroader June 1975. A good electronics shop should be able to update the component list, and a US prototype interest club should be able to supply the article from their library. The interta circuit is probably not worth the trouble. I start the trains with pulse. When the train is moving, wind up the smooth DC and wind the pulse to off for cooler running. Check the magnetism on the motors (should be doing that anyway. Nothing like DCC control standards without the headache tablets. When introducing a new system ALWAYS check to see if the motors are heating; this is another thing we should always do with older models anyway. ALWAYS RESEARCH THE HEATING CONFIGURATION OF A MODEL AS SUPPLIED FROM FACTORY, AND AS MODIFIED! 3/ Check to see if the plastic on the brush moulding is melting. Someone on Utube made some modifications to (I think) the Brush 2 motor bogie, which probably has the same brush housing type. 4/ Are you looking to using the LM317T (if still available) for lighting voltage control? Good to see someone doing something encouraging. Pete
Hello Peter, thanks for watching and taking the time to pass on that great information. I shall have to research the items you mention. I have an interest in vintage electronics so It will be fun. How right you are about motor heating, I have never had any problems but I do take care to check the magnets are as they should be. I bought a second-hand Class 31 once with a very weak magnet and that had a melted the brush mounting. I repaired it with chemical metal, shaped it up with a file, re-maged it and it runs superbly, even on half wave. Take care, all the best to you
@@MrSnooze Thanks for that. I'm going to be known for capital letter warnings and extreme caution. The over-riding need is to forewarn the least experienced viewer and not set nasty traps for beginners. At least regarding this Hymek, between us we have covered everything I can think of. I shudder a bit. The throttle is brilliant, and my electronics genius friend (I'm not) tells me all is available. Am looking at doing a circuit board???? if time allows??? If I do I'll let you know... somehow. I can send you the article; but how? Will have to look into copyright (you see how careful you have to be. There are a number of ideas I was working on to modify these locomotives; the main principles being first rate performance, serviceability, and some view towards reversibility... not so much as a needless screw hole (For goodness sake: if it is possible, replace those self tappers holding the brass keeper plate with proper 8BA's - and size drill large enough not to break the tap). At risk of negating some of the foregoing, perhaps we need to think on the pickups in the power truck. The physics of it have me wondering. I am currently scratch building so, for me, most of this has lapsed. But it is good to share ideas and encourage. Hope this reads OK. Stay away from Covid!
I have been a rail modeller since I was 8. Now in my 50s. I am perfectly happy with DC. One of the great secrets of DCC is that is a nightmare of problems and disappointment that you pay a king's random to have. Many modelers who spent so much money and effort on DCC are experiencing so many technical problems and extra costs that they secretly won't admit it or they wished they stuck with DC. I know several who wished they stayed with analogue. Let this sink in. I bought 10 yes TEN second hand and working 00 and HO locos in a job lot - all working - that cost less than a chap I know who paid the same amount of money for a sound chip for their fancy new 'DCC-ready' DMU (which alone cost 400 euro!)
Hello, you sound a similar age to myself. I am also a little dubious of the ease seemingly offered by DCC. The more I look into it, it seems highly complex to achieve what we do with DC. Modules connected to sub modules just to operate points. I have seen beneath large complex DCC layouts on UA-cam and am amazed by the shear amount of wiring. Also when sometimes watching live sessions, locos stopping for no reason, modules failing, these things do seem to happen at great expense. I think I'll stick to good old DC for now. Best regards to you
@@MrSnooze Stay Alive circuits in locos that are there in case the wheels hit a bit of dust and the engine start up process begins in the middle of an express run. Also shorts on point frogs can destroy both the DCC and sound chips in one go. A short in DC means the motor stops rotating until you pick it up and it's fine again as soon as it it back on the track. I still have the same Hornby Class 8 shunter I had as a little boy running on my layout today. Few services over the decades was all it needed.
Thank you,its running well,one of the pickup retaining plastic nodules came off but a dab of superglue sorted that😊.It dates from 1968 .
Absolutely fantastic seeing the class 35's running at a scale speed and not even struggling pulling that lovely set up .
Hello Bob, glad you enjoyed seeing these, they really performed well. Best regards to you
I have the same two class 35's but I don't think they run quite as smooth as yours. I was most impressed by the long heavy trains they were pulling. Mine are very restricted in load pulling due to the hills on my layout. Excellent, thank you. Take care, David.
David, I think from your videos you are using nickel silver track. Of course lots of advantages with nickel silver rail but you miss out on the Tri-ang Magnadhesion benefits to haulage and to some extent pickup. Mr Snooze has these advantages and his plating method seems to be a big advantage over trying to find mint condition Super four track.
Hello David, I think there may be an issue or two running these rakes up inclines but they enjoyed the flat. All the best to you
@@johnd8892 Hi John, My layout in it's current state has a mixture of code 100 nickel silver and brass track. It's old stuff I use while figuring out the exact track plan. I have Peco nickel silver to replace it with and am doing that slowly. None of this is good for the Tri-ang rolling stock but I have plenty of Super 4, series 3 and even standard track for those. What I lack is space to put it together. Maybe, one day. lol. Cheers John, David.
@@MrSnooze Yes, I think you're right. I am hoping to get some Tri-ang track down and do some running this year, then I shall see. David.
David, just a thought as I found with mine a lot of iron filings around the magnets in the power bogie, sorted amazing the difference, by the way the hymec is the best track cleaning weapon lol any loose pins or screws are magnet fodder, stay safe .
I have a mid 1970s “Hornby” era version of the Triang Hymek. It has factory fitted pick ups on the trailing bogie. It has always been a far better runner than its ring field motor younger sibling. For my money the Hymek was one of the best of the diesel outline models to come out of Margate. Excellent motor bogie and a very good representation of the prototype. Which I itself was one of the best looking diesels. A great video
Hello Andrew, I'm glad you still have your 1970's Hymek, they are great models. I think the motor is good too. They run very smoothly. Take care and all the best to you
@@MrSnooze none of yours are stalling on the points, great to see
@@vikingsmb fitting the extra pickup makes these smooth over the points and diamonds. All the best to you
I've two Hornby Hymeks both with magnahesion work brilliantly at all speeds both have a fantastic crawl speed,far better than any other models I have.Only ever run DC its good enough for me.
Hello Peter, it's good to hear you enjoy running the Hymeks too they are superb runners. I think a DC layout is great fun to operate. All the best to you
Nice to see some sympathetic upgrades to keep these golden oldies running well, and they certainly did run nice and smoothly. I look forward to seeing your lighting upgrades, sounds like an interesting little project.
Hello Rob, I'm still experimenting with the lights but I'm sure I'll get there soon, glad you enjoyed the running. All the best to you
Great to see the Hymeks. Nice to see the green Hymek hauling the HD western region stock. Particularly good to see the prototypical marshalling of the First Open next to the kitchen area of the restaurant car. I tend to agree about DC with these older models. I am building a layout in 0 and have gone for DCC but at some point want to construct a layout with my HD models. For a brief moment thought about converting them to DCC but, no, DC it needs to be-DCC just wouldn’t be quite right!
Hello Andrew, I must admit to a piece of luck with the arrangements of the coaches. You have taught me something interesting regarding the prototypical marshalling. I hope I can remember for the future. I'm glad you are sticking with DC too. All the best to you
Wonderful as usual. As an Irishman I have the Triang Hymek they produced in CIE (irish Rail) livery, orange and black. Great puller.
Hello Christian, I like the sound of the CEI version, I shall see if I can find a picture of one on the internet. All the best to you
@@MrSnooze It wasn't prototypical of anything we had at the time, so it was always a strange one. Around the same time (late 70's) Lima produced a Class 33 in Irish colours which again wasn't prototypical but was a bit closer to our Metropolitan Vickers 001 class.
Great running session, i like what you did to that class 35 to get it running a bit more reliably.
Thanks Joshua, It's great when a simple modification improves the running so much. All the best to you
Great video, the layout is coming along well 👍
Hello Richard, I'm glad you're enjoying seeing the layout develop. I'm looking forward to getting more points motorised. Best regards to you
,ve just bought an r758 and am looking forward to working on it as its been stored for years like so many it deserves a 2nd life.
These usually come back to life well. I hope you had success with yours. Best regards to you
beautiful trains Sir! excellent modifications.
Hello John, thanks for watching again, I am really pleased how the extra pickup makes these run better. All the best to you
Hi nice to see the Hymeks running so well i have a green one RO74 D7063 with the extra pickups
Hello, it is amazing the difference the extra pickup makes. I'm working on my Lord Of The Isles for the next video. All the best to you
Very nice to see!
Hello Alan, thanks for the kind remark. Glad you enjoyed seeing them. Take care
Really good running on the class 35s. Long live DC running.
Hello, thanks for the positive remarks and yes, long live DC. All the best to you
Nice to see the slower running . Very nice running . The green one in particular must be hauling quite a weight . These coaches are heavy. I didn’t realise there was a plain green version , I thought they had yellow warning panels from introduction in 66. I’ve a 1976 Hymek that has the old motor, I think they switched to Ringfield around 77/78, and it has separate pick ups on bogie .
I really don’t get the complexity of DCC . I work with computers all day . The last thing I want is to figure out CVs or grab a controller that looks like a calculator and figuring out how to operate it . With DC I just turn the controller knob and off we go!
Just checked with the Oscar Paisley vid on the green Hymek. Confirms my memory that it is likely from the period when the yellow warning panel and route indicator were sticky paper labels. So likely they did not stay stuck on in the past fifty or so years and are often lost.
Announced in 1966 but not in the shops until 1967 and then for just one year before it was changed to rail blue.
I remember the long wait for the green Hymek to appear.
@@johnd8892 Hymek did enter service without yellow panels , I just couldn’t remember Tri-ang Hornby making one , but the yellow stick labels falling off explains it . I had similar issue with my AL1 which is also a yellow sticker which I had to reattach. They would have been made around the same time I think
Hello Russell, a couple of people have mentioned the ringfield is not any better than the original motor to me in the past. I bet the stickers are lost, I'll look for some pictures. All the best to you
@@MrSnooze I haven’t got a Ringfield Hymek but it would be same as in the class 25 dating from about 1977. That does run better than my old Hymek but that’s probably really a sign I should service Hymek. It only gets occasional use these days. And probably needs an oiling .
Hi, I have just found your channel and subscribed, I dont see many DC locos being run at close to scale speed. You have shown that these older locos can be kept running and
operate very well. The only problem with running the older Triang/Hornby Locos is they have deep wheel flanges which are not always suitable for running on the newer 100 code tracks. I would like to suggest that anyone considering starting a layout based on the Triang/Hornby era locos should also obtain the older track from the same period.
I have a number of older locos that I bought when I started my layout 8 years ago, I later found why they were not running very well on my new tracks, it was down the the wheels. I have solved that problem by fitting new modern wheel sets to my Jintys and they run very smoothly. They were just laying unused in their boxes until being modified now they are run frequently. I can hear the purists screaming, however I believe its better to keep them running its also cheaper than buying new locos at todays prices. I only have 2 DCC locos but dont run them very much, I prefer my oldies and also run them at slow speed without any problems. I recently modified my old Class 37 that had a Ringfield motor fitted, it now has 2 Ringfield bogie assemblies and what a difference its made, its gone from a noisy poor puller to a quieter loco than will run very slowly while pulling 6 coaches with ease. I hope to follow the progress you make on your layout its a very interesting track plan. Stay safe, Paul.
Hello Paul, thanks for watching the video. The main reason I plumped for Super 4 track was to cover running older locos with the bigger flanges. I don't think its bad to change wheels or machine originals down if you want to keep older models running, it's part of the fun sometimes to modify items. I guess some people frown on altering things but sometimes evolving the older models is great fun and as you say it keeps them in use. It's amazing these items still run so well after all the years. They were made really well. I bet that class 37 can real pull a good rake with all that power. Best regards to you
Nice 👍
Hello Robin, Thanks, glad you enjoyed. Take care, all the best to you
I agree right speed.
Hello Kenneth, I'm glad you enjoyed the slower speeds today. Take care, all the best to you
Good evening Mr Snooze some terrific running. Its amazing it took them till the early seventies to add the extra pick ups. Looks like a great modification you have developed and very neat. What was the wheel type you replaced the original with.
Looking forward to the next video.
Oscar
Hello Oscar, I agree about the pickups, but they got there eventually. I used modern available pinpoint 12.6mm 3 hole wagon and coach wheels just one axle on the bogie. All the best to you
I have the r.768 hymek in c.i.e.orange and black.
Hello, another person mentioned this livery to me. I bet they look great. I'm hunting around for a picture of one. All the best to you
@@MrSnooze the CIE one is now highly collectable, but CIE never had a Hymek. Nevertheless the CIE livery is very attractive on the model.
Hmm: 1/ Probably a good idea to add pickup on other trailing axle, and to run a conservative duty cycle. 2/ I have good running and crawl starts/stops with Don Hansen's transistor throttle in Kalmbach's Model Railroader June 1975. A good electronics shop should be able to update the component list, and a US prototype interest club should be able to supply the article from their library. The interta circuit is probably not worth the trouble. I start the trains with pulse. When the train is moving, wind up the smooth DC and wind the pulse to off for cooler running. Check the magnetism on the motors (should be doing that anyway. Nothing like DCC control standards without the headache tablets. When introducing a new system ALWAYS check to see if the motors are heating; this is another thing we should always do with older models anyway. ALWAYS RESEARCH THE HEATING CONFIGURATION OF A MODEL AS SUPPLIED FROM FACTORY, AND AS MODIFIED! 3/ Check to see if the plastic on the brush moulding is melting. Someone on Utube made some modifications to (I think) the Brush 2 motor bogie, which probably has the same brush housing type. 4/ Are you looking to using the LM317T (if still available) for lighting voltage control?
Good to see someone doing something encouraging.
Pete
Hello Peter, thanks for watching and taking the time to pass on that great information. I shall have to research the items you mention. I have an interest in vintage electronics so It will be fun. How right you are about motor heating, I have never had any problems but I do take care to check the magnets are as they should be. I bought a second-hand Class 31 once with a very weak magnet and that had a melted the brush mounting. I repaired it with chemical metal, shaped it up with a file, re-maged it and it runs superbly, even on half wave. Take care, all the best to you
@@MrSnooze Thanks for that. I'm going to be known for capital letter warnings and extreme caution. The over-riding need is to forewarn the least experienced viewer and not set nasty traps for beginners. At least regarding this Hymek, between us we have covered everything I can think of. I shudder a bit.
The throttle is brilliant, and my electronics genius friend (I'm not) tells me all is available. Am looking at doing a circuit board???? if time allows??? If I do I'll let you know... somehow. I can send you the article; but how? Will have to look into copyright (you see how careful you have to be.
There are a number of ideas I was working on to modify these locomotives; the main principles being first rate performance, serviceability, and some view towards reversibility... not so much as a needless screw hole (For goodness sake: if it is possible, replace those self tappers holding the brass keeper plate with proper 8BA's - and size drill large enough not to break the tap). At risk of negating some of the foregoing, perhaps we need to think on the pickups in the power truck. The physics of it have me wondering.
I am currently scratch building so, for me, most of this has lapsed. But it is good to share ideas and encourage.
Hope this reads OK.
Stay away from Covid!