Thanks for putting this up on UA-cam. I have a problem with my Johnson 6 hp and trying to figure out how to get the powerhead off. I have a better understanding now.
When I was doing flat repair/replace I collected some interesting bits of things stuck in tires. A notable one was half a flat-file, it still works too! XD
So how did you know that the power head was out? Just curious because my motor will start if i use a drill on the flywheel but im also waiting on a carb kit to rebuild because its leaking gas. I've chaged the water and fuel pumps also the spark plugs but the carb is next. Its getting spark but im hoping its not this bad. Thanks
Such a shame, a nice clean fresh water engine wasted....Someone probably over revved the thing in neutral and stretched the aluminum rod...Thanks for using the proper amphenol tool and the stop leads and not just cutting the wires! Those piston wrist pin bores are a tight fit on one side, the other side will be stamped with an "L" for loose. The wrist pins are driven out from the loose side toward the tight side, and reinstalled the same way, needless to say it didn't make any difference on that piston. I know this seems to go against logic, but it makes sense in order not to distort the piston skirt. Drive that crankcase taper pin out before loosening the crankcase bolts to make life easier.Love your cool combination work bench and engine stand, along with the nice piston fixture!
Oh that work bench has been the best. I use it constantly. As far a tools, you'll see a lot of specialty tools through my video. They aren't that expensive, and when you use them as often as I do, they are worth buying.
this is Ken not Lesley , but I do have a couple of look alikes to this engine, - I like to see the tricks of the trade, and look for common problems or solutions, - it saves ruining something , because you didnt know about a secret lock screw somewhere - THANK YOU
Thank you now I know how look inside 2 cilinder outbord .Is to bad it look good from out but that is lots damage in cilinder tig welding it may fill in and planty precision sanding but J B welld it just may do trick since is under top of hed, got all parts what a hell I got compresor motor for cooler box running on just one hed cilinder did fine for 15 y.
Remove spark plug first, stick a dowel in and feel if the pistons are moving when its rotated over. No movement tells you a lot. At that point you'd know whether you want to proceed with a rebuild or junk it without having to spend half the day pulling it apart to discover the same information.
You're missing the main point Gerard,, Brandon is a step ahead of you! Where you want to get out of doing some tear-down work,, Brandon is tearing it down pronto! This way he's done 2, or 3 steps in ONE! 1) TEARDOWN to discover the failure, 2) study the situation (the what-where-why- )and how come!!! 3) figure whether or not it's fixable (cost-effectively!)~!~ I'm a 35 year Johnson & Evinrude tech and am semi-retired but still servicing J. & E. motors on my own property. Brandon has a great work ethic,,, and hopefully he will stay with it!!!!
A neighbor has an older 8hp Suzuki with a seized motor that he has tried everything except tearing it down. I told him this spring I'll try like you did on this one. Who knows may get lucky and just need new rings?
I know this is an old video but if you're still in business..any recommendations on the carb...or maybe do a video on it...I've rebuilt mine also replaced the bowl and top plate...still hard to start and don't idle worth a crap....any recommendations...?
Timing / ignition problem, or compression. Although, how much gas are you giving it to start it? Are you going to the 'start' position on the twist grip, or past it? Also, are you using the primer/choke?
Hi, I have an identical engine. I'm having trouble starting to cold. I also changed the piston rings, the spark plugs, I cleaned its carburetor and it still doesn't start. It starts very very hard with the shock pulled and the acceleration at maximum. After starting for the first time this way the following starts are very easy. Can you advise me what to do? Thank you.
Could that air silencer be fitted to a -70's 6hp? If, then would it do any good for the low to mid rpm torque? Older ones don't have the exhaust tube like the newer ones, which i assume the air silencer is there in the first place to tune some fancy intake pulse stuff i don't have no idea about. (pardon my English. Not my native language)
I believe the reason why the factory made the newer style 6, 7 1/2, and 8 h.p. motor with an exhaust tube was because of the extreme narrowness of the mid-section!! Whereas the old styl;e 6 h.p. had a wider/rounder midsection, the new style was very narrow! In my 35 years of servicing these newer 6/7.5/8 h.p. motors, I had to replace the exhaust tubes quite often,, because of super-excessive exhaust heat/ flame(s)!!! If the factory didn't add the exhaust tubes, the midsection(s) would have been burned right through, ruining the entire midsection casting, and destroying the factory paint surfaces at the lower motor cover, and possibly the items in that general area!!!! They needed the exhaust tube to contain the fiery exhaust gases that would have seriously damaged the (aluminum casting of the midsection,, and destroyed the paint around that area of the midsection!!! I'm a 35 year Johnson/Evinrude small outboard service tech. I've repaired many of the newer style 6/7.5/8 h.p. outboards that needed new exhaust tubes, because the extreme heat from the exhaust gas & flames melted huge holes right through the exhaust tubes, at the area closest to the discharge area of the block!!!! I believe it was a factory mistake that as far as I know, was never corrected!!!
Friend, you have an engine document, I have the same engine and you do not have a purchase document and I want a similar one to make the documents again.
Hi I have a evinrude 15hp 87 and the crankcase seal is leaking oil and shooting it up into the top of the cover and getting into the flywheel causing it to cut out on me Do I need to break the crankcase apart to replace the seal or can pull it out to replace it
I've got an 8 hp '85 Evinrude that i've got to take the powerhead off of. This was exactly the video I needed. Thanks man! The only thing I don't have is the CDI tool for that stop wire. Think I can carefully just use a thin drift?
Thanks...and sent you an email this morning to the email attached to your YT acct...wanted to see where you were located. I've got a weird cooling issue I'm tearing my hair out with (which is why i'm removing the power head)...
Question? I have a 6hp an the flywheel does rock period. I sprayed areokroil in it 5 days ago an tilted it up an turned it sideways. So hears the question, that nut you took off for the flywheel to pull off can i put an impact on that nut an tighten it to see if the pistons free?
Impacts don't quite work like that. The force will be driving the nut downward onto the flywheel, until it breaks or strips the crank. There will be minimal rotating force to try and rotate the engine; you're better off with a breaker bar. Also, if the breaker bar doesn't do it, just take it apart and see what you're dealing with. I rarely try to unstick them anymore, just take them apart and see what the damage is.
No. Cannot get the crankcase halves separated while attached to the exhaust housing. Did you pull the lower off first? It might be stuck to the driveshaft.
Oh don't worry, I wouldn't work on anything of yours. Usually you can get a feel for people, and get 'too busy' for them. On a side note, I don't remember prying on plastic, or putting any screws where there should have been bolts. Come to think of it, I don't remember putting anything on this motor back together?
@@BrandonsGarage Not that I agree with him, but he meant that you called the lower bolts that disconnect the power head, screws and you pried the power head off using the lower housing (which is not plastic!), as leverage. Don't you love the critics? You go out of your way to make a nice video and some don't appreciate it. I do!
Hi, there mate, I've tried to get help with my 2 , hp DT Suzuki from other people and still not working. You seem to be very knowledgeable on outboards now after many years. l bought the engine recently, l live in Stockholm Sweden, l am not going to take it to a mechanic, we all know what they charge. Anyway, it is from around 88-89 it is new never been used. l sprayed some lubtŕicant in the cylinder, put 25 to 1 oil mix as stated for first 5 hrs of running. There is fuel getting to the carb, can smell it and the float bowl was full and checked it was clean. l mean this is a new engine, should be clean right. l have discovered that there is no spark, Someone said look at stop switch, so l pulled the two wires apart and took away the earth, made no difference. No spark. People have suggested must be the carb, but it has no spark. If l had a spark and got it running and it was running rough then l would take the carb off and clean it, l am waiting on a new spark plug coming today. Just to rule out that the one now is not faulty. The gap was correct 0.5 to 0.6 mm. If it is not the sparkplug and still no spark, Can you then guide me next what to do? Of course, you can suggest other things. l hope you will reply to this and l will reply and let you know if it was the sparkplug. Kind regards Kevin. l might post this to you to a few other vids just incase l don't hear from you and you miss it.
i am no expert mate but seeing as you got no reply, - from other motors - no spark, - go back along the circuit from the plugs, check HT LEAD for clean connection, check for spark at points, if it has them, - then work back to coils, sometimes motors not used loose the magnetism , and can be spun by using an electric drill to spin the engine for about 5 minutes and test again , if it improves - try for another 5 minutes and so on - i hope this helps, - but it may have ELECTRONIC ignition - which i dont know about,
Yes sir, same thing, just different color. Sri Lanka huh? Maybe someday I'll come visit and explore the beaches of Unawatuna, Bentota, Mirissa, and Trincomalee.
There are a lot of people who use them on fishing boats, who don't need to go fast. It'll push 2 people with gear, in a 14' aluminum without problem. My photo is a 6 HP, with 3 people in the boat, towing a raft, up river; did just fine. (I was dropping two friend off up river, so they could float back) Also, there are a lot of small/private lakes that don't allow anything bigger than a 10.
i only use motors in this size range currently , - they push a 20ft traler yacht out of a congested mooring area - to where there is wind in the channel, - perfectly adequate
So direct so simple amazing video. No extra flourish. Fast forward in parts but still visual. Thank you
Very precise breakdown! Over the top for me, but very interesting to say the least!
I have a similar motor and could watch this many times!
Thanks for putting this up on UA-cam. I have a problem with my Johnson 6 hp and trying to figure out how to get the powerhead off. I have a better understanding now.
When I was doing flat repair/replace I collected some interesting bits of things stuck in tires. A notable one was half a flat-file, it still works too! XD
Muy bueno el video, eso pasa por falta de lubricacion. Felicitaciones.
¡Gracias! Estoy glag le gustaba. Parece que el combustible en el carb se mezcló con el petróleo, así que no lo sé.
So how did you know that the power head was out? Just curious because my motor will start if i use a drill on the flywheel but im also waiting on a carb kit to rebuild because its leaking gas. I've chaged the water and fuel pumps also the spark plugs but the carb is next. Its getting spark but im hoping its not this bad. Thanks
Such a shame, a nice clean fresh water engine wasted....Someone probably over revved the thing in neutral and stretched the aluminum rod...Thanks for using the proper amphenol tool and the stop leads and not just cutting the wires! Those piston wrist pin bores are a tight fit on one side, the other side will be stamped with an "L" for loose. The wrist pins are driven out from the loose side toward the tight side, and reinstalled the same way, needless to say it didn't make any difference on that piston. I know this seems to go against logic, but it makes sense in order not to distort the piston skirt. Drive that crankcase taper pin out before loosening the crankcase bolts to make life easier.Love your cool combination work bench and engine stand, along with the nice piston fixture!
Oh that work bench has been the best. I use it constantly.
As far a tools, you'll see a lot of specialty tools through my video. They aren't that expensive, and when you use them as often as I do, they are worth buying.
Hi, how many pins in the cranshaft liner - 18:06min.
my 3rd time watching this vid. Thanks. I am working on my(same motor) Do you have any of those parts for sale?Air box maybe?
this is Ken not Lesley , but I do have a couple of look alikes to this engine, - I like to see the tricks of the trade, and look for common problems or solutions, - it saves ruining something , because you didnt know about a secret lock screw somewhere - THANK YOU
Thank you now I know how look inside 2 cilinder outbord .Is to bad it look good from out but that is lots damage in cilinder tig welding it may fill in and planty precision sanding but J B welld it just may do trick since is under top of hed, got all parts what a hell I got compresor motor for cooler box running on just one hed cilinder did fine for 15 y.
Oh yeah, Im all for that too.
So what did you do with this motor. I'd be interested in it for parts since I have the exact same year and model. Video was awesome by the way.
Can you tell me the number of the gasket between the girdle and the deadwood?
Remove spark plug first, stick a dowel in and feel if the pistons are moving when its rotated over.
No movement tells you a lot. At that point you'd know whether you want to proceed with a rebuild or junk it without having to spend half the day pulling it apart to discover the same information.
You're missing the main point Gerard,, Brandon is a step ahead of you! Where you want to get out of doing some tear-down work,, Brandon is tearing it down pronto! This way he's done 2, or 3 steps in ONE! 1) TEARDOWN to discover the failure, 2) study the situation (the what-where-why- )and how come!!! 3) figure whether or not it's fixable (cost-effectively!)~!~ I'm a 35 year Johnson & Evinrude tech and am semi-retired but still servicing J. & E.
motors on my own property. Brandon has a great work ethic,,, and hopefully he will stay with it!!!!
A neighbor has an older 8hp Suzuki with a seized motor that he has tried everything except tearing it down. I told him this spring I'll try like you did on this one. Who knows may get lucky and just need new rings?
Can you speculate on why it failed? Thanks.
How do you get the air box off of that motor
Does this motor need a center bearing I didn't see on win the video
Hi very good vid.
How do you call the fuel line part in min 12:44 and where can I get a new / used one with pipes conected ?
I know this is an old video but if you're still in business..any recommendations on the carb...or maybe do a video on it...I've rebuilt mine also replaced the bowl and top plate...still hard to start and don't idle worth a crap....any recommendations...?
Timing / ignition problem, or compression.
Although, how much gas are you giving it to start it? Are you going to the 'start' position on the twist grip, or past it? Also, are you using the primer/choke?
Hola puedes venderme el carburador completo para un motor que no tiene el sistema de aceleración
What would have caused that cause I’ve a 5hp shortshaft 1988 that uses the same block pistons etc ?
what caused it, a broken bigend bolt, did one bolt come loose or something else
Is there any lower units for these engines available?
Hi, I have an identical engine. I'm having trouble starting to cold. I also changed the piston rings, the spark plugs, I cleaned its carburetor and it still doesn't start. It starts very very hard with the shock pulled and the acceleration at maximum. After starting for the first time this way the following starts are very easy. Can you advise me what to do? Thank you.
Are you trying to start it on the "start" setting?
And is the choke on?
Thanks for answer ! Yes I try, it didn't work . ...
What would cause this? All can think of is a lack of lubrication or overheating from loss of water cooling.
Could that air silencer be fitted to a -70's 6hp? If, then would it do any good for the low to mid rpm torque?
Older ones don't have the exhaust tube like the newer ones, which i assume the air silencer is there in the first place to tune some fancy intake pulse stuff i don't have no idea about.
(pardon my English. Not my native language)
I believe the reason why the factory made the newer style 6, 7 1/2, and 8 h.p. motor with an exhaust tube
was because of the extreme narrowness of the mid-section!! Whereas the old styl;e 6 h.p. had a wider/rounder midsection, the new style was very narrow! In my 35 years of servicing these newer 6/7.5/8 h.p. motors, I had to replace the exhaust tubes quite often,, because of super-excessive exhaust heat/ flame(s)!!! If the factory didn't add the exhaust tubes, the midsection(s) would have been burned right through, ruining the entire midsection casting, and destroying the factory paint surfaces at the lower motor cover, and possibly the items in that general area!!!!
They needed the exhaust tube to contain the fiery exhaust gases that would have seriously damaged the (aluminum casting of the midsection,, and destroyed the paint around that area of the midsection!!! I'm a 35 year Johnson/Evinrude small outboard service tech. I've repaired many of the newer style 6/7.5/8 h.p. outboards that needed new exhaust tubes, because the extreme heat from the exhaust gas & flames melted huge holes right through the exhaust tubes, at the area closest to the discharge area of the block!!!! I believe it was a factory mistake that as far as I know, was never corrected!!!
Really good work. Thanks.
Friend, you have an engine document, I have the same engine and you do not have a purchase document and I want a similar one to make the documents again.
We’re you able to find a power head
Hi I have a evinrude 15hp 87 and the crankcase seal is leaking oil and shooting it up into the top of the cover and getting into the flywheel causing it to cut out on me
Do I need to break the crankcase apart to replace the seal or can pull it out to replace it
You can pull it out and replace it; just need a special puller tool to get it out.
How about a drill bit and a screw and pull it out with a hook tool
Wouldnt it be much better to use a press on the wrist pins in the pistons?
Well yeah, but at that point it didn't really matter.
I've got an 8 hp '85 Evinrude that i've got to take the powerhead off of. This was exactly the video I needed. Thanks man!
The only thing I don't have is the CDI tool for that stop wire. Think I can carefully just use a thin drift?
Yes.
All the tool is is a small roll pin inside of a slightly larger roll pin.
Getting them back in, thats not so easy.
Thanks...and sent you an email this morning to the email attached to your YT acct...wanted to see where you were located. I've got a weird cooling issue I'm tearing my hair out with (which is why i'm removing the power head)...
Question? I have a 6hp an the flywheel does rock period. I sprayed areokroil in it 5 days ago an tilted it up an turned it sideways. So hears the question, that nut you took off for the flywheel to pull off can i put an impact on that nut an tighten it to see if the pistons free?
sorry flywheel does not rock period.
Impacts don't quite work like that.
The force will be driving the nut downward onto the flywheel, until it breaks or strips the crank.
There will be minimal rotating force to try and rotate the engine; you're better off with a breaker bar.
Also, if the breaker bar doesn't do it, just take it apart and see what you're dealing with.
I rarely try to unstick them anymore, just take them apart and see what the damage is.
I'm having an issue taking off my lower unit on a 84 8hp evinrude any tips it's almost as though its stuck
Robert Mckinnon shift it into forward position. The shift linkage holds the lower unit tight in neutral or reverse . I had the same issue with mine.
@@Sign_72 thanks for the tip I'll try that out I was putting it in reverse 🤦♂️
Great job,your the man👍
Piston pin goes out with the arrow on top of the piston. You are suppose to heat up the pin
Oh now you tell me!
Is it possible to replace the piston while the power head is on its mount? Can't get the dam thing to come out
No.
Cannot get the crankcase halves separated while attached to the exhaust housing.
Did you pull the lower off first? It might be stuck to the driveshaft.
All set now just waiting for the piston just don't know where all the needle bearings go?
Would u sell the carburator and primer?
How can you tell if its not the lower unit with out takeing the top off ?
You develop a feel for these things.
If you're just starting out, remove the lower first to rule that out.
Put in gear and spin prop thats how I found that it was power head if the prop spins freely in forward or reverse its the top
Now on to replaceing the piston
Where did the motor come from (area)
Los Angles somewhere. I want to say just outside of Compton, but it could have been Gardena or Hawthorne.
I would not let u work on anything of mine. Screws when there bolts. Prying on plastic??? Motor was free but shaft was still in. no reason to pry.
Oh don't worry, I wouldn't work on anything of yours. Usually you can get a feel for people, and get 'too busy' for them.
On a side note, I don't remember prying on plastic, or putting any screws where there should have been bolts.
Come to think of it, I don't remember putting anything on this motor back together?
@@BrandonsGarage Not that I agree with him, but he meant that you called the lower bolts that disconnect the power head, screws and you pried the power head off using the lower housing (which is not plastic!), as leverage. Don't you love the critics? You go out of your way to make a nice video and some don't appreciate it. I do!
So the block is not usable?
does it look like it is?
fun little video
One of the connector rod bearings is broken.
Hi, there mate, I've tried to get help with my 2 , hp DT Suzuki from other people and still not working. You seem to be very knowledgeable on outboards now after many years. l bought the engine recently, l live in Stockholm Sweden, l am not going to take it to a mechanic, we all know what they charge. Anyway, it is from around 88-89 it is new never been used. l sprayed some lubtŕicant in the cylinder, put 25 to 1 oil mix as stated for first 5 hrs of running. There is fuel getting to the carb, can smell it and the float bowl was full and checked it was clean. l mean this is a new engine, should be clean right. l have discovered that there is no spark, Someone said look at stop switch, so l pulled the two wires apart and took away the earth, made no difference. No spark. People have suggested must be the carb, but it has no spark. If l had a spark and got it running and it was running rough then l would take the carb off and clean it, l am waiting on a new spark plug coming today. Just to rule out that the one now is not faulty. The gap was correct 0.5 to 0.6 mm. If it is not the sparkplug and still no spark, Can you then guide me next what to do? Of course, you can suggest other things. l hope you will reply to this and l will reply and let you know if it was the sparkplug. Kind regards Kevin. l might post this to you to a few other vids just incase l don't hear from you and you miss it.
i am no expert mate but seeing as you got no reply, - from other motors - no spark, - go back along the circuit from the plugs, check HT LEAD for clean connection, check for spark at points, if it has them, - then work back to coils, sometimes motors not used loose the magnetism , and can be spun by using an electric drill to spin the engine for about 5 minutes and test again , if it improves - try for another 5 minutes and so on - i hope this helps, - but it may have ELECTRONIC ignition - which i dont know about,
Engine sufferd the same Death as mine broken needlebearing
Lol! I love the maraka
Would you sale this one and if so how much would you want for it ?
This one is long gone.
However, I have a brand new-never used 1987 6 HP I can part with.
Eviinrude and Johnson shame complain I'm from srilanka
Yes sir, same thing, just different color. Sri Lanka huh? Maybe someday I'll come visit and explore the beaches of Unawatuna, Bentota, Mirissa, and Trincomalee.
Broken rod
The only reason to own a motor this small is as a kicker , Incase your real motor dies. To slow.
There are a lot of people who use them on fishing boats, who don't need to go fast.
It'll push 2 people with gear, in a 14' aluminum without problem.
My photo is a 6 HP, with 3 people in the boat, towing a raft, up river; did just fine.
(I was dropping two friend off up river, so they could float back)
Also, there are a lot of small/private lakes that don't allow anything bigger than a 10.
Just kidding, don’t get your motors in a bind.
i only use motors in this size range currently , - they push a 20ft traler yacht out of a congested mooring area - to where there is wind in the channel, - perfectly adequate