HOW TO REMOVE THE POWERHEAD ON A 9.9HP OR 15HP EVINRUDE JOHNSON OUTBOARD 1973-1992
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- Опубліковано 9 січ 2025
- Bunch of videos on a 1982 9.9hp evinrude We start with removing the powerhead
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Great vid thank you. I have a 1992 9.9 evinrude model E10RENA and it bogged down badly on the water and started to smoke out of the telltale! I shut it off, took it home, tinkered with it and wouldnt start. I cleaned the carb 3x over, replaced plugs, wires, ignition coil, power pack, charge coil, water pump, fuel pump, thermostat and gasket, fresh gas, compression is 105psi in both cylinders...i get spark, it putters but refuses to start. I replaced the head gasket, even tho it didnt need it it looked good. Still wont fire, even if i spray ether in the carb or the plug holes, still wont fire which amazes me. My next move is to pull the powerhead off and replace exhaust and water gasket, intake manifold gasket, power head gasket and grommets. Hopefully when i pull the powerhead off and open the block up i find something. Maybe a blockage choking off air? Something choking off the exhaust? Have you or anyone else had this issue at all? Any help is much appreciated thanks everybody.
you are putting in all the work.. just dont forget the small stuff. tank gas primer bulb etc,. after putting this motor back together it ran like crap!! found out I forgot to put the high speed jet back into the carb when i put it back together!
Very helpful video. I hope mine comes out as easy!
Thanks for watching! Hope it all goes smoothly! any issues let me know Ill help if i can!
Good video thank you. Need to replace upper water tube grommet. When I did the thermostat though I was able to do it by removing the hood latch like you stated in the other comment
nice!! Yeah The water tube grommet change will bew in a future video!
Yeah, the ones with the thermostat/pressure relief valve are a real bugger... Removing the latch, and trying to lower the pan slightly usually gets the job done, provided none of the bolts are rusted/seized.
Although it isn't required, if you rotate the flywheel so the little cutout for the rope lines up with the starter bolt, you have a little more room to remove that bolt and the starter. I've done it your way too, without rotating the flywheel, and got it off easy enough. And, everyone is so afraid to take their starter apart. That spring isn't too bad to wind back in at all. And, once everything is cleaned in there, and new rope, it pulls so nice and smooth, like new.
excellent tips!!! keep them coming my man!
2 Tips 4 U: 1. Use a 6 point socket or wrench whenever possible even if you have to buy them just to do the project. 2. To make sure you get the bolts back into the correct positions you can take a flat piece of cardboard and as you take each bolt out, push the bolt through the piece of cardboard, copying the positions they are on the motor. You may have to use a pencil or something to poke a starter hole into the cardboard first, just make sure the bolts fit snug so they don't fall out. You can even draw an outline on the cardboard if you want to. You can also write notes on the cardboard next to the bolts for things like how and when to get certain ones back in, torque sequence, etc. Also, take pictures of all locations before you remove the bolts. If you have never taken something apart before, don't underestimate your potential lack of memory and the confusion you may experience when you go to put it all back together, especially if you have days or even weeks in between taking things apart and then putting them back together. Other things can come up in your life and you may also have to order parts that take a long time to get. This is also a good idea when working on cars, lawn tractors, etc. You don't want to have to take a bungled home repair or disassembled motor or vehicle into a shop with a container full of bolts and parts and ask them to please put it back together for you. They will not be sympathetic.
Thanks for taking the time out to comment this!! Excellent tips!
Really good advice. 👍
Great video buddy thanks!!
No problem 👍
I am in uncharted territory with a 1982 Johnson 15. The shaft is broken just below the upper spline. Do I have to pull the powerhead, or can I remove the midsection to get to it? I have never done either so pardon my ignorance.
no worries at all! we all have to start somewhere! problem is if your shaft is broken solid chance your shaft is fused into the bottom of you power head! I would take of the lower and see if the top of the drive shaft falls out! if it doesnt you will need to pull the powerhead!
if you cant get the shaft out at all you will need a NEW power head
Great video. I have a 1989 Evinrude 9.9 pull start. I think Im gonna pull the power head to check out the rubber grommet on the water intake.
NICE!! Def worth a look cause these motors are KNOWN for that grommet melting and colapsing!
Great vid thanks! Question for you if you know: What direction is the lower crank seal supposed to face? Open spring side of seal down or up?
Intuition tells me Spring side of the seal toward engine/top but the seal was not intalled that way in my engine when I took it apart so that is why I question it.
I believe I show the install in another video!! Im pretty sure I installed it spring side facing the powerhead! Thanks for the comment and watching!!
Makes sense. I'll install in that way. Thanks for the info! Your vid helped me a lot, too - I pulled the powerhead off in no time.
@@paulhaines5755 nice!! hit me up if you have any snags!!
Does the lower unit need to be removed to remove the power head?
nope! I just did that cause i needed to change the water pump too
I have a question say if you had a 9.9 really any make can you swap the power head with like an 18hp or the lower would be weak break?
on this particular motor the bolts would not match up anything higher than 15hp. but you could put a 15hp carb on a 9.9.
@@BlackoutBilll21 reason for me asking about it is I can come across bad powerheads but good legs very cheap was thinking of putting lawn mower engines on the legs and sell the power heads to who ever wants parts or rebuild here in Missouri you have to have a title for outboards and boats of course the trailers so the running outboards are very expensive with titles and the non running like cracked blocks, down cylinders are cheap. Mud motors are cheaper but I have to mess with the long shafts and I fish out of the back of the boat on Mississippi river on a plywood boat that's glassed I didn't know if I would bend a shaft in the leg putting too big of a motor on a 10hp leg I can use the water pump to plum into the exhaust making it wet and quiet
@@mortonmorton6083 I believe the lower could handle up to 20hp IMO
I saw a series of videos of a guy that took his 9.9, added the 15hp carb, the shims, the tubed exhausted and sanded and polished every freaking surface that air touched and I believe he got 18ish Hp out of it when it was all said and done.
But it was a lot of work - intake, carb, piston heads, exhaust and a few other things. Pretty cool, though! Getting 18Hp out of such a small/light package
Hi i have the same outboard i tried using it today and i notice that the whole top piece of the motor would shift back and forth causing the steering shaft control or link to starter interlock bellcrank shaft to pop out and disconnect from the tiller handle. Wondering whats the reason for the motor to be moving so much now? Thanks in advance
That plastic piece that connects (i believe this is what you are refering to) can wear over time. It screws off. I would try to get a new one that fits tightly over the tiny ball mount
Thanks also do i have to take the lower unit out first before the power head? Or can i start from top to bottom?
@@yoboimanny6111 you don’t have to take the Lower Unit off. I was just doing a total overhaul, so I took mine off. You could start with the powerhead and just take that off on its own.
@@yoboimanny6111 thanks for commenting and watching. Any questions as your project goes on feel free to ask.
You ever change ignition coils apparently the newer ones require additional wiring
Not on this type of design.. I do know that there are 2 types of wiring connectors for these coils though
Hi, what is the powerheard weight 15 hp? Thanks.
It’s a 9.9. The weight?? I have no idea sorry 50lbs?
Help ! I am working on the same motor and i am stumped. Someone overheated it badly at one time and it has a water leak somewhere around the base. The head gasket was leaking water so i replaced it but water still appearing somewhere down below. Could this be the water tube gasket that is talked about in the comments? Thanks for the video. I was going to scrap it but after seeing how relatively easy the power head is to remove I may try it !
100% could be that grommet! make sure your compression numbers are still good! a bad overheat leads to MANY other issues!
also make sure when you did the head gasket that the cover wasnt warped!
Just to make things right, those 2 longer bolts (out of the 6 holding the power head from underneath) belong to the rear not to the middle position. Regards !
THANK YOU! Ive seen so many videos of it in different positions!
Do you remember what size nut you used on the bottom of the recoil? I want to make sure I’ve got one when I remove the starter.
Its a long bolt that threads directly into the block bracket. no nut on the bottom
oh wait you meant so that the assembly doesnt come apart.. I dont know off hand but I can do some digging. typically the assembly stays together if you just push the bolt through
I got it figured out today thanks for the comment
@@All_A_Guy_Needs awesome!
Just leave the bolt in it and use some electrical tape around it and it won't come apart.
Well, you have hit on a big problem area on these engines for sure... The upper water tube grommet... It was a bad design, and gets crushed easily in salt water use. Replacing the thermostat is a great thing to do also. Sure, it can be done without pulling the powerhead, but that is a total pain. That thermostat is a combination thermostat and pressure relief valve, so care should be taken to make sure the system works properly. Oftentimes, the pieces (spring/cup/gasket) are missing/misinstalled from previous repairs. You surely don't want to have to get at that thermostat again after reinstalling the powerhead. Be sure to clean those driveshaft/crankshaft splines while it is off, lube the driveshaft splines with OMC moly lube and replace that oring seal as well. One of the hardest parts of this job is getting the powerhead off for sure. No real great places to pry, you have to be so careful not to crack/break one of the casting while prying. Looks like your lower motor pan got a little hole poked in it, no big deal in that location. These are great engines, rugged, reliable, and relatively powerful for their small size. Yeah, they can be challenging to work on, tough to get at everything stuffed into that lower pan. I worked on these engines when they were brand new, so I am used to dealing with the tight pan issues.
i mean I couldnt explain it better if I tried!! ll Thanks my brother!!
Do you need to remove the bottom leg or anything ?
nope. I do in the video I think but you do not need to remove the lower!!
Yes, remove it. It has to be removed when you re-assemble, so you might as well do it now, & change the impeller while you’re at it. If you don’t remove it, it is very difficult to line the copper water tube into the water pump.
Man I do NOT want to remove the power head just to get to that thermostat. Is there ANY other way? lol
yes! First off i really wouldn't be afraid of pulling the powerhead.. But there are some videos of people removing the hood latch to get access. You might need a modified wrench as well. small grinder usually does the trick
@@BlackoutBilll21 Thank You!
@@northwestlife_9 if you hit any bumps let me know
OK, well my first question is why do you want to replace the thermostat?? Is there a cooling issue? May not be the thermostat, could be that lovely upper water tube grommet, especially if used in salt water. Nonetheless, you can get them out without pulling the powerhead, just a timely struggle.
So you need the lower end unit off first
you actually do not need to take the lower unit off. i did cause I was doing other work to it.
See the above post. You will have a tough time lining up the water tube into the pump from above, as you can’t see anything below when dropping powerhead back in place.