HOW TO BLUEPRINT YOUR ENGINE - STEP BY STEP - What is blueprinting and why is it Important?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- In this video I break down step by step how to blueprint your engine build. Whether it’s a 350 Chevy or a 302 Ford, the process is the same.
Al, you're the best. First time engine assembler here. Your videos have been invaluable to me as I plan and prepare to build. More people should be watching your channel. Thanks so much for everything you share and all you do.
What a nice compliment DeJock. Glad you are enjoying is and more to come.AG
Well I build engines for what they are being used for. I build my 360 for my '79 Dodge because it was a gutless dead dog. I wanted the cam to come to life earlier for better low end torque. Now me building my '65 383 to be a street rod loud and fun. To me blue printing is writing down all before and after measurements for everything.
Thanks for your comments Jetty.AG
Did the engine come alive?
This is Rodney Carter from Humboldt Tenn, born in 1962, and love all your videos,and the time you take for detail. I have always ran my street cars with the distributor locked out with about 36degrees total time on my sbc .Question, how do you set up your vacuum advance distributor for the street?.
Thanks for the question Rodney. Vacuum advance is only engaged, (and only required) when you are idling or low speed, part throttle cruising. As long as you have sufficient vacuum, over 15" at idle you should be ok. I just set total timing all in by no more than 3000RPM (with vacuum advance disconnected), then hook the vacuum line to MANIFOLD vacuum. (below the throttle plates). At idle you may have 40-50 degrees of advance, which is fine. Hope this helps. AG
I dont do alot of the things u point to here. I can't. If I did it like that I'd never have anything. But one point you made I think is highly important & a great thing to do for yourself & your machine shop! You said don't rely on verbal instructions to your machinists, have instructions written down!!! That could have saved me some aggravation on 390 build! I had the build planned out & needed the block decked. I had cometic head gaskets already bought. They are pricey! I needed the piston to remain .010 below deck for the perfect quench! I sat down & explained it to my machinists. When it was dun I went to pick it up & he had zero decked it & without a piston so when assembled the piston actually came out of the block by .005!! I was angry! We can't put metal back on! Why didn't you call me?? He said he didn't remember talking about it!!! It all worked out in the end & is still a good running 390. And I still have cometic head gaskets for my next 390. 🙃
Thanks for sharing your experience Jesse. Helps to reaffirm my point about verbal instructions.AG
Question. On the main bores on a aluminum block & aluminum rod big end bore should you have tighter tolerances because the aluminum expands a couple thousand from room temperature up to 200° compared to iron block.
Good point Patrick. I don't have experience with aluminum engines. Bill Little, can you comment on Patrick's question please.AG
First of all. I enjoy watching your videos. You are very knowledgeable and detailed in what you present. I would like to see a comparison of a dry sump oil system compared to a wet sump system on the same engine with no other changes. Just curious as to horsepower gains.
Thanks Gary, good question. I am sure the dry sump would be better but I don't know how much. That would be a difficult test as the dry sump engines also have internal differences. I will keep it in mind if i ever get an opportunity. AG
What a thoughtful, well-described explanation of what is what. Well done.
Thanks so much for the nice compliment Matthew. Keeps me motivated. AG
Hello Mr. Allen good to see this good information 👍 you remind me of my auto mechanic instructor he was a great knowledgeable mechanic
Thanks so much Christopher. Comments like this motivate me to keep going. AG
@jerryfarmer5989 INSPIRED this (his post below) first define your goals, NHRA or other class racing blueprinting or a Tow/ street or some other goal
Thanks for your comment Jm.AG
Awesome Video...Thanks for your time and effort. I'm about to start rebuilding my 409 and have tried to make a plan as you describe. Checking your list against mine will help fill in some Gaps.
Thanks Rick. i love 409's. i have done 2 and have another one coming up. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 You going to make a Video of the 409 rebuild???🙏🙏🙏
You really hit the nail on the head during your intro. No matter if you are building a high precision, expensive racing engine or doing a quick and dirty cheap rebuild on an old farm pickup, there is really no feeling like turning that key the first time and hearing and feeling your very own "creation" spring to life. I'm too old and don't have the space to build whole cars anymore but your channel makes me want to get an older junker engine, fix what needs fixing, and make it run on a test stand in my garage just for the satisfaction of hearing it, smelling it and dialing in the timing and carb. Build on my friend.
Thanks for the nice comment Dave. I call it psychic income, I never get tired of it. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 psychic income, I like that. Let's not let the IRS or the CRA find out about it, I'd hate to pay tax on the feeling ;-)
20%% ??!!! You're a God !!!
Very nice compliment John, thank you for watching and commenting.AG
well done again...
Thanks for watching and commenting 69.AG
Great stuff as usual.
Just a note: If using a distributor and drill to prime an oil pump make sure you remove the drive gear.
On mine I also knocked the advance mechanism off and brazed in a rod for the drill to grab.
Cheap and effective, another strange looking tool to hang on the wall. (-:
Surprising how much power is consumed just feeding oil.
Good info, thanks Marcus. AG
Thank you for this, Alan. Nice overview of an engine build from planning and preparation through actual assembly. I don't recall anyone else on UA-cam reviewing and explaining the process in such a detailed and methodical manner. And with a screenshot outline included! Of course, as Alan indicates, specific clearances, tolerances, torque values, and other misc. specifications will vary from engine to engine due to manufacturer and application. Check with Factory or well-known Engine Manuals before and during assy. Use caution even with these manuals as printing errors do exist. Double and triple-check the values and cross-check to confirm. Performance engines are almost always built to the looser side of tolerances indicated in these manuals. In most cases, for most popular engines, guides do exist for higher-performance blueprinting builds and info. there will vary from Original Factory-type manuals. Cross-reference and check information found there also. Very nice job Alan. Thank you again for this.
Thanks Bill for your comments. All good info. AG
Another please if you could because I can't find it anywhere. Can you do a video on how to use a degreed cam gear. Rather than off set key ways or inserts. It's also getting harder to find a machine shop. The machine I used for my 383 was shocked. I wanted the spring height at 277. He told me they went on like they were made for the engine. Well they are I use only Mopar Performance stuff like cam and matching springs. Which I find lots don't do they put in a big cam and not the springs that should go with it.
Thanks Jerry. I did make a video about advancing the cam on the dyno. I used a Cloyes adjustable cam gear. please check it out and let me know if that is what you were looking for.AG
Thank you for this video
This is good information for folks to absorb
I always enjoy your comment Nerrad. Thanks. AG
Good video AG! Well structured...
Thanks you Steve.AG
Hey Allen. I I am getting ready to put out the lash video part 2 check out the end of it when you get time.
Good video
Thanks Brian, i will watch for it.AG
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP
Thanks as always Patrick.AG
You say "build the motor to tight tolerances" I would probably reword that to be specific dimensions that are often looser than minimum clearances specified in the range of acceptable tolerances the one exception I would say is an aluminum engine block where I always tighten up my main bearing clearances generally 0.0005-0.0008 tighter than I want to see in an aluminum block. One other thought, many people don't understand that the machine shop might have as good and possibly even better pricing than major retailers, it's often best to find a quality machine shop and consider letting them source the parts for you. I find it a challenge to find quality engine shops now that I moved away from my home that had several race tracks within 150miles of my home.
Thanks for your comment EJ. A tolerance and clearance are two different things. A clearance is the space or distance between a shaft and bearing. A tolerance is the allowable range of clearances. AG