the rely on the shroud on the top has a sponge like filter material inside... mine was 90% dissolved replace with house sponge and works perfectly now. Easy first check (slot on the bottom to open the rely)
@@eduardlafleur Really so many videos say it controls the fan and seemed that if I plugged it in and unplugged it the fan would work and then stop. Might be a loose wire in the fan and shaking the housing got it working again. thanks for the info!
@@RichHimes-sd1nj yes I know. Many people are wrong. Google e46 pollution sensor. That basically controls the recirculating air in the cabin or coming from the outside. It’s similar with the sensor for monoxide you have in your house. But it doesn’t affect the fan
Thank you so much did this on my son X3 and it was the black/green wire it was broken at the radiator side right at the connector broken inside the the wire jacket. Pin 4 was dead replaced the connector and fan came back.
@@HowToDoitright yeah I ended up doing it the way I explained, just was wondering why you did it the way you did, still helped me out thanks! I believe my condenser fan is working once again after parting 3 of them together...
Mine stays on when connected and i have to disconnect the pins or connections that goes on the fan any ideas why it stays on even if i have the car turn off it wont shut down it stays on high level spin
How You determine that driving signal is okay? We have here only information that wiring from computer to fan is ok but do not know nothing about signal itself. As I remember this is an PWM signal (pulse-width modulation) so I think it also be good to check it with scopometer using INPA at the same time to manually turn on the fan (and observe signal od DME output)
I replaced my fan (2001 bmw 325i e46) and it worked for 2 months. Went thru a flooded street and now the fan does quick starts and stops on low only. I can pulse wire but no high speed. If I jump it from the fan module from wires after they enter thru module high speed works but not from wires going into module. Water ruined module? Liked your olms test.
Tested the fan motor and it works fine directly. Bridged out the thermoswitch but still doesn't kick in. The fuse is fine. I'm out of ideas and don't know why bridging the thermoswitch out didn't fire the fan up
Bonjour j'ai un sousi sur m'a bmw e46 330d année 2000. Je n'ai plus de vitre électrique avant. Est mon fusible 30 enpaire qui grille direct. Jai vérifier les feseaus dans les portes vitrifié aussi le corfre. Frenchement je sais pas quoi faire . Je voudrais juste savoir où chercher. Je sais pas si mon message vas être lu.
hi i also repost a problem on your other video thanks for the info my wires are also correct and everything is good so with inpa i turned on and it does not turns on or off with the car on i think it is my airco pressure because when you open airco it should come on but when it is low it doesnt so i will refill it and it should come on or am i wrong????? thanks greatings a Kurdish boy living in the Netherlands
@@HowToDoitright I did not try a different meter yet all I have is a couple junk ones besides the one that was jumping and it is on the older side and the number 4 pin where I probe was broken I changed it yesterday at stop giving me the fan error yet the fan still don't work I'm thinking of going to get a junkyard fan and giving it a try
I am in the spot where there is no signal voltage coming from the DME. Could you expand on the need for the A/c to be working. A/C will work after about 2 miles on the highway, but not right away when engaging a/c or driving around at low speed, the a/c comes on about the same time the cooling system comes up to temp and engages the condenser fan. Don’t know where to go from here, Replace DME or is it the a/c system? Service manual says fan should come on for 20 seconds upon 1st start, mine doesn’t. Any idea what I should check? Had the system evacuated and recharged, no change....
As I remember measuring voltage gives nothing as steering signal is PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) and if my memory does not fail duty cycle 90% and above stops the fan and any lower duty cycle increases speed of this fan. I talking here about E46 / E87 and if I am right also E70 has the same method of controlling fan speed.
I just have a electric fan code, forums say that a good chance is the green and black signal wire for the fan could rub through, causing a short then throwing the code on ignition turn, is this the problem you had too?
Hi my name is Ramon and for my e46 she was running all fine until one day she overheated randomly and I checked fluids but one thing that's weird is my ac hasn't worked for a while before and she won't overheat when the car is moving its until she is driving and when I stop for a while she starts to overheat.Would you have any suggestions if so please let me know.
Hello my friend...i have a E46 1998...my fan doesn't work-open even when the temperature gauge goes to red...but works when I open the air-conditioning system... what's happening?
I think that the coolant temperature sensor is bad? I think that sensor is in radiators outcoming hose? (atleast I have there some sensor) I have '99 318i, and also problems with overheating. (Just buyed that car with problems) fan runs fine with 12v, and I think that not run in car, not even A/C on. Maybe the controller is bad in my car.
@@Vensku86 hey man I replaced the sensor on my radiator right off the house at the bottom it did not fix my issue however I was also told that I have there is another sensor underneath the intake manifold you might look into that I ended up buying a new fan and a new radiator bc it started leaking not sure if it’s going to fix it yet fingers crossed when it gets here
@@In_the_pit_with_nick16 thx for other sensor info! Now I tested it more, and it runs with A/C on! Slowly, (two speed fan? So at low speed) but it runs! Car doesnt overheat, just good filling and getting air off, and it runs good! But... It knocking! Sh*t... Maybe conrod bearing..? Balancing thing at oilpan...? When it heats up (oil heats), it start knocking more than w/ cold engine. It's not knocking continously and so, but when revs are something 2,7-3k, and specially over 4k, it knocks bad! And previous owner says, it hasn't knocked at all, when she owned it. (this has been droven 391k km) And... I buy this for as "second" car, and my daily driven, 320da, got broke something. Maybe injector, it just not started anymore. I take cr pressure sensor connector off, and it runs now, but engine running sound is more "sharpen" and it shakes on idle... Goddamit 😄
My 330 dosnt have 12 volts all the time on the little wire from dme and the fan works fine. About 6.5 volts shown on my wire. Wish I knew for sure what it is supose to be cause my x5 fan isn't working 330 is a e46 x5 is a e70
Hi, I have an overheating problem. I already installed the temperature sensor. I did the bleeding about 4 times and the problem continues. And since the fan does not activate when it is starting to overheat. Already check all relays and fuses. The strange thing is that when I turn on the heating the temperature returns to its midpoint. Someone who can help me with the problem is a 325i wagon 2003
OnyxWolves did changing the thermostat fix that issue with the fans? And wouldn’t turning on the ac automatically make the fans turn on even if you thermostat is stuck closed
Thats not a good check on the small wire…. First off, yes you had continuity.. great.. but did you load test the wire with a bulb? Nope.. second, you have to scope the wire to see if you get a pulse width modulating signal of 12 volts, your meter cant do that. If the signal isnt right, the dme could be bad
@@HowToDoitrighthi my fan on e46 m3 is coming on after 5 minutes of running and staying on. Car is not overheating, I’ve changed the temp sensor and the viscous fan. Could it be the fan module shorting out inside? Any ideas would be very much appreciated
the rely on the shroud on the top has a sponge like filter material inside... mine was 90% dissolved replace with house sponge and works perfectly now. Easy first check (slot on the bottom to open the rely)
That is not a relay.
Is the pollution sensor. Detects harmful substances in the air.
Nothing to do with how the fan works.
@@eduardlafleur Really so many videos say it controls the fan and seemed that if I plugged it in and unplugged it the fan would work and then stop. Might be a loose wire in the fan and shaking the housing got it working again. thanks for the info!
@@RichHimes-sd1nj yes I know. Many people are wrong. Google e46 pollution sensor. That basically controls the recirculating air in the cabin or coming from the outside. It’s similar with the sensor for monoxide you have in your house. But it doesn’t affect the fan
Thank you so much did this on my son X3 and it was the black/green wire it was broken at the radiator side right at the connector broken inside the the wire jacket. Pin 4 was dead replaced the connector and fan came back.
I'm confused as to why you split the wire instead of disconnected the fan and touched the multi meter to the pin in the connector?
You can do it that way too. I just wanted to check the continuity
@@HowToDoitright yeah I ended up doing it the way I explained, just was wondering why you did it the way you did, still helped me out thanks! I believe my condenser fan is working once again after parting 3 of them together...
I had the same exact question. Why cut the wire? At any rate, it was a very helpful video. Helped me in trouble shooting.
Hey buddy, did you manage to find the solution? I’m in the same situation.
Bro I sold it. Got fed up of issues with this car. Not worth the time. Got a Tesla and I’m in peace now.
Mine stays on when connected and i have to disconnect the pins or connections that goes on the fan any ideas why it stays on even if i have the car turn off it wont shut down it stays on high level spin
How You determine that driving signal is okay? We have here only information that wiring from computer to fan is ok but do not know nothing about signal itself. As I remember this is an PWM signal (pulse-width modulation) so I think it also be good to check it with scopometer using INPA at the same time to manually turn on the fan (and observe signal od DME output)
that is a very good point
To test the fan, connect the blue wire from the fan to the car body or to the black wire.
I replaced my fan (2001 bmw 325i e46) and it worked for 2 months. Went thru a flooded street and now the fan does quick starts and stops on low only. I can pulse wire but no high speed. If I jump it from the fan module from wires after they enter thru module high speed works but not from wires going into module. Water ruined module? Liked your olms test.
Seems like it did
Tested the fan motor and it works fine directly. Bridged out the thermoswitch but still doesn't kick in. The fuse is fine. I'm out of ideas and don't know why bridging the thermoswitch out didn't fire the fan up
Say, does that BMW fan have a brushless motor? Do you know which, if any, cars came with a brushless fan motor?
Don’t know
So what happens when the signal wire does short on the car body?
Please share with a novice
Bonjour j'ai un sousi sur m'a bmw e46 330d année 2000.
Je n'ai plus de vitre électrique avant. Est mon fusible 30 enpaire qui grille direct.
Jai vérifier les feseaus dans les portes vitrifié aussi le corfre.
Frenchement je sais pas quoi faire . Je voudrais juste savoir où chercher. Je sais pas si mon message vas être lu.
English plz
hi i also repost a problem on your other video thanks for the info
my wires are also correct and everything is good
so with inpa i turned on and it does not turns on or off with the car on
i think it is my airco pressure because when you open airco it should come on but when it is low it doesnt
so i will refill it and it should come on
or am i wrong?????
thanks
greatings a Kurdish boy living in the Netherlands
It could be. Not too sure. I sold the car
If pwm signal is broken, how to fix that?
Notnsure
@@HowToDoitright i have fixed! Thanks!
@@313BriX I soldered a break in the wire and wrapped it with heat tape
What setting do you have yours on except for mine is jumping from 8 to 14 I think my voltmeter is failing
Try a different meter
@@HowToDoitright I did not try a different meter yet all I have is a couple junk ones besides the one that was jumping and it is on the older side and the number 4 pin where I probe was broken I changed it yesterday at stop giving me the fan error yet the fan still don't work I'm thinking of going to get a junkyard fan and giving it a try
@@kennyspringer7668 you may want to check your fan module. It might be bad
I am in the spot where there is no signal voltage coming from the DME. Could you expand on the need for the A/c to be working. A/C will work after about 2 miles on the highway, but not right away when engaging a/c or driving around at low speed, the a/c comes on about the same time the cooling system comes up to temp and engages the condenser fan. Don’t know where to go from here, Replace DME or is it the a/c system? Service manual says fan should come on for 20 seconds upon 1st start, mine doesn’t. Any idea what I should check? Had the system evacuated and recharged, no change....
seems like maybe a bad fan module. Let me know if you want to buy one. I have full assembly fans with module all tested and working. Easy swap.
I have 2 already, but the fan works when initiated by engine coolant temp, just nothing when using A/C. Is there a test to confirm the module?
Tested the fan module I have off the car, 4 pins, pin 1 - 4 is 223 ohms.all other connections read open.
George Malek understand but that doesn’t mean fan is fine. Did you force the fan to start from the computer
What voltage is the signal wire is supposed to read. At the fan connector mine is reading 3.4 volts. My Ac doesn't work either.
As I remember measuring voltage gives nothing as steering signal is PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) and if my memory does not fail duty cycle 90% and above stops the fan and any lower duty cycle increases speed of this fan. I talking here about E46 / E87 and if I am right also E70 has the same method of controlling fan speed.
I just have a electric fan code, forums say that a good chance is the green and black signal wire for the fan could rub through, causing a short then throwing the code on ignition turn, is this the problem you had too?
No I had no code
Thanks? What was problem? My fan does not start also not with ac on, with 12v test on battery it spins...
Thanks
Fan module is bad. Replace it. I have one for sale if you interested btw
@@HowToDoitright fan module, its on the back of the fan right? Got a e46 coupe 318ci m43 engine myself,
@@rondjeee correct. Yes for e46 it’s all the same. You should have a number in that module. Let me know and I can match it to the one I have.
Okay thanks going to check tonight
with INPA it goes on, not when put ac on, or when reaching 105c, what could it be?
Hi my name is Ramon and for my e46 she was running all fine until one day she overheated randomly and I checked fluids but one thing that's weird is my ac hasn't worked for a while before and she won't overheat when the car is moving its until she is driving and when I stop for a while she starts to overheat.Would you have any suggestions if so please let me know.
Your electronic fan is probably failed. There is a controller on the fan that sometimes dies.
@@HowToDoitright is there any way to test it
If you have a computer with BMW software then yes.
Btw I have one of those modules I can sell you for around 50 bucks if you cover shipping and you can swap yours with it. It’s easy installation.
Why. Water pump BMW X3 stop working when the temperature reaches 4 bars
Ah that’s a good safety feature. Nice to know
Hello my friend...i have a E46 1998...my fan doesn't work-open even when the temperature gauge goes to red...but works when I open the air-conditioning system... what's happening?
I have this same problem did you find any solutions?
I think that the coolant temperature sensor is bad? I think that sensor is in radiators outcoming hose? (atleast I have there some sensor) I have '99 318i, and also problems with overheating. (Just buyed that car with problems) fan runs fine with 12v, and I think that not run in car, not even A/C on. Maybe the controller is bad in my car.
@@Vensku86 hey man I replaced the sensor on my radiator right off the house at the bottom it did not fix my issue however I was also told that I have there is another sensor underneath the intake manifold you might look into that I ended up buying a new fan and a new radiator bc it started leaking not sure if it’s going to fix it yet fingers crossed when it gets here
@@In_the_pit_with_nick16 thx for other sensor info! Now I tested it more, and it runs with A/C on! Slowly, (two speed fan? So at low speed) but it runs! Car doesnt overheat, just good filling and getting air off, and it runs good! But... It knocking! Sh*t... Maybe conrod bearing..? Balancing thing at oilpan...? When it heats up (oil heats), it start knocking more than w/ cold engine. It's not knocking continously and so, but when revs are something 2,7-3k, and specially over 4k, it knocks bad! And previous owner says, it hasn't knocked at all, when she owned it. (this has been droven 391k km) And... I buy this for as "second" car, and my daily driven, 320da, got broke something. Maybe injector, it just not started anymore. I take cr pressure sensor connector off, and it runs now, but engine running sound is more "sharpen" and it shakes on idle... Goddamit 😄
@@In_the_pit_with_nick16Hello, new fan fixed your problem?
Mine is working even with the car off, any help ?
Man change the car. I gave up on this car and sold it
The controller on the fan (small box) has failed and stuck on one speed
Iv no voltage, fuse is fine so is relay, presume wires are broken somewhere
Could be
My 330 dosnt have 12 volts all the time on the little wire from dme and the fan works fine. About 6.5 volts shown on my wire. Wish I knew for sure what it is supose to be cause my x5 fan isn't working 330 is a e46 x5 is a e70
The little wire is just signal. Doesn’t have to be 12v.
So if you have no freon the fan won’t come on?
Nope
@@HowToDoitright thank you
Hi, I have an overheating problem. I already installed the temperature sensor. I did the bleeding about 4 times and the problem continues. And since the fan does not activate when it is starting to overheat. Already check all relays and fuses. The strange thing is that when I turn on the heating the temperature returns to its midpoint. Someone who can help me with the problem is a 325i wagon 2003
Did you check if thermostat is stuck closed by any chance?
I have same issue, believe thermostat was stuck closed, replaced it hoping that will cause my fan to start working again.
OnyxWolves did changing the thermostat fix that issue with the fans? And wouldn’t turning on the ac automatically make the fans turn on even if you thermostat is stuck closed
@@densteryo I'm assuming it has fixed it since he hasn't replied back or mentioned it, I'm hoping so because I'm having the same issue he's described
Thats not a good check on the small wire…. First off, yes you had continuity.. great.. but did you load test the wire with a bulb? Nope.. second, you have to scope the wire to see if you get a pulse width modulating signal of 12 volts, your meter cant do that. If the signal isnt right, the dme could be bad
My 2004 325i bmw fan is stuck on high
That’s better than being dead. Change the fan controller module that is on the fan motor.
@@HowToDoitrighthi my fan on e46 m3 is coming on after 5 minutes of running and staying on. Car is not overheating, I’ve changed the temp sensor and the viscous fan. Could it be the fan module shorting out inside? Any ideas would be very much appreciated