Tekin Builds Ep. 11 - No-Prep RC Street Eliminator Beginnings
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2019
- A new build begins! We are transforming a Pro-Line Pro-2 SCB into a Street Eliminator! In this first part of the build, Ty swaps the suspension arms, turnbuckles, shocks, front shock tower, wheels and tires, axle shafts and installs extended body mounts! Soon we will be out tearing up the street and tuning our car for consistent launches and fast passes.
Parts used in this build:
Tekin - www.teamtekin.com
RS PRO, Motor (TBD) T-130 Servo, HotWire 3.0 BLE
Pro-Line Racing - www.prolineracing.com
Pro-2 Short Course Buggy Kit
Pro-2 SC ProTrac Shock Tower
Pro-Spec Front & Rear Shocks (internally limited)
Pro-2 Extended Body Mounts
Octane Body Set
Hoosier MC Drag Slick Rear Tires
Hoosier MC Drag Front Tires
Pomona F/R Drag Wheels
MIP - www.miponline.com
X-Duty CVDs for Traxxas Bandit
RPM - www.rpmrcproducts.com
Bandit Front Arms
Bandit Rear Arms
Traxxas - www.traxxas.com
Bandit VXL Turnbuckles and Camber Links
Part 1 Write-Up - www.teamtekin.com/news/tekin-b...
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I've been trying to talk myself out of building a RC drag car and you guys go and post this
Build one, you must.
Cool build, thanks for sharing!
Sweet setup
Good stuff👍
Very cool!
Looking good, try running front shocks all the way around. Run 90wt oil. You can even opt for no front shocks and use turnbuckles in there place.
I thought about running all fronts, I'll have to try both setups. The rears are fairly stiff now that they are limited, I only have about 1/4" of travel in back. I'll start with that 90wt oil, thanks!
@@TekinRacing I have both setups, my cars are all associated, sc10, sc5m, sc10 4x4. Tekin esc and motors in all. Max amp batteries for the power. I run associated 4.6lb rear springs, this seems to be a good start point. Not to soft, not to hard. Keep up the great builds Ty. #TeamTekin
A bandit VXL can I just extend a chassis with a factory works and be able to compete in the no prep drag race would it fall into the rules
🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
Can you still get the pro 2 sc kit? I miss the one I had.
Currently getting my conversion/ upgrade parts for my b6.1d drag car. I got the protoform c7 pro mod body for it.
Nice!
Will the old rustler's rear and front clips be narrow enough to fit that body or the bandits width is the only viable option? Also, is there an eliminator body that will fit the rustler clips. I have the options of the slash lcg chassis, proline pro 2 or the 22t 2.0.
This body fits normal short course width, you don't have to go to buggy width. I choose to because narrow goes straight and I also wanted to be able to fit the Pro-Line Nova and other bodies made for the narrower buggy width setups.
@@TekinRacing I see. I have a fully built RPM, Kingsford, and strc rustler setup so was trying to avoid having to change it to the bandits. I think the proline apocalypse body is wide enough to accommodate. Thanks for the info
I know from when I had a stiff Springs I couldn’t get the bite that I need to launch
I've been wanting to build a drag car. I just dont know what chassis I want to go with. I'd like to see a build on a mid engine chassis. Seems like most are done with rear engine chassis. (I'm a newbie so I might not have terminology right. But ya...)
I used an Associated SC5M/B5M for mine. The mid motor setup has worked fine so far.
You also used bandit arms ? I have a aluminum traxxas chassis but be wasteful bc most parts. Wouldnt work than to tear new slash up hmm maybe i make a stock car instead w those Hoosiers
If you type in team associated B5M drag build you'll find what you're looking for mid motor build fullthrottlerc is the channel 💪🏻😎
Hi Tekin Builds! Jus seen yur vids for the first time. I have subscribed needless to say. U are so informational with what u do. It's been a while but I am now back into the best hobby in the world! Lol so I was wondering. Is there any way to get a parts and part number list on yur street eliminator build? Also was that a 1/10 or 1/8 scale that u built? And finally does it have to b a name brand short course chassy or can u use an off brand company chassy like nitrorcx or exceed? Lmk plz. Thank you so much and keep up the awesome work yall do and builds...
Welcome back to the hobby! The parts I used in converting the SCB chassis to narrow stance is up in the description. I've still got some more to do to this car in the spring time, I'll get it back out and start changing up some suspension parts to dial it in. It is a 1/10 chassis technically but the bodies are pretty big, more like 1/7 scale or so. You don't have to start with a big brand chassis but I would recommend it, just for ease of building with available parts. There are tons out there for the Slash and there are a lot of them around, so that's why it is the go-to for most to use. I'd pick a brand you can get parts easily for though, will save you a lot of headache down the road!
@@TekinRacing Awesome ty Tekin Builds! I will keep everything u told me in mind with my build. Thx again
Do you have to use Bandit A arms or could you just mount the drag front tires I have LCG2 2wd slash my rear cleared good just my front
It depends on the body you choose. This Octane will work on Slash width arms. I went Bandit width because I may run a more narrow body, like the PL Nova or something similar. Narrow is supposed to go more straight!
Ok will the proline drag front tires go right on or is there a kit
@@Waltonboy12 direct bolt on!
@@TekinRacing thank you so much
Why not use a 2wd buggy chassis?
You can put 2WD buggy front and rear clips on a short course chassis to accomplish the same thing. Buggy isn't a long enough wheelbase for these.
DONT LOCKTIGHT UR SHAFTS once there in there in and not coming out I learned the hard way
It's blue Loc-Tite and I already learned the hard way that not using any cost me a shaft and almost ended with sending the car off the road at 60.
@@TekinRacing well I broke my bearings and couldn't get it out had to take it all apart and buy a new set of shafts wich was like 60bucks and had to buy new bearings and drill the old ones out I went through hell trying for like an hour trying to take it apart😂
@@806_sebass I always threadlock my MIPs since way back when I was modifying E-MAXXs. The barrel grub screw you absolutely have to, otherwise it backs out, the pin starts to come out and if it catches at high RPM you destroy the CVD bell. It was a bit nerve-wracking when the one in this car blew up on me at speed, had no brakes!
@@TekinRacing ohhhhhhhh now I understand
And nobody ever made steel shafts for the bandits! Sure noooow they do 🙄
Street eliminator has a 3900KV limit.
Stock does, mod does not.
Tekin Racing You’re right! I got my number from the limit in the manual for the Stock Reedy ESCs Capability and it some how made it into the rule set in my mind lol.
Do you have a recommendation for what gearing I should use in a box stock class for my son?
@@gravityracergt would depend on the motor, the stock RTR motors are a bit different than say a 13.5T.
Tekin Racing I’m talking about the stock RTR motor . Here locally we have a DR10 Stock class that allows changes to body, Suspension, gearing but we have to keep all the stock electronics and run a 2S LiPo
Funny how nobody ever wanted shit to do with the bandit. 🤣🤣🤣
Do not sway bar the front bad for drag cars.
Yeah I plan on just a rear sway now after more research and talking with drivers in the know.
Cute little toy but to enter in a actual no prep race you have to first have an actual real race car not a little kiddy toy
Well RC No Prep is a thing and lots of people have built cars to race. It's highly competitive.
I hate add