Tekin Builds Ep. 12 - No-Prep RC Street Eliminator Part 2
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2019
- Part two of the Street Eliminator build is all about installing electronics, mounting wheels & tires and painting up the Pro-Line Octane body! Ty is finalizing the build and getting it ready for the first test passes out on the street!
RS PRO Install - 2:15
Soldering Tips - 5:15
Radio Calibration - 9:10
Servo End Points - 10:10
Tire Mounting & Balancing - 11:07
Pro-Line Octane Body - 14:22
Parts used in this build:
Tekin - www.teamtekin.com
RS PRO, Motor (TBD) T-130 Servo, HotWire 3.0 BLE
Pro-Line Racing - www.prolineracing.com
Pro-2 Short Course Buggy Kit
Pro-2 SC ProTrac Shock Tower
Pro-Spec Front & Rear Shocks (internally limited)
Pro-2 Extended Body Mounts
Octane Body Set
Hoosier MC Drag Slick Rear Tires
Hoosier MC Drag Front Tires
Pomona F/R Drag Wheels
MIP - www.miponline.com
X-Duty CVDs for Traxxas Bandit
RPM - www.rpmrcproducts.com
Bandit Front Arms
Bandit Rear Arms
Traxxas - www.traxxas.com
Bandit VXL Turnbuckles and Camber Links
Part 1 Write-Up - www.teamtekin.com/news/tekin-b...
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Super cool build! I am excited to see how you setup your punch/launch control, that seems to be the secret sauce. I see a lot of people getting out of control when launching and I assume you will figure out some cool setup. I will be watching this series! Thanks for sharing!
I'm looking forward to testing and finding a setup for this car. Will definitely be using our torque control feature!
Another awesome build. 🔥🤠🇺🇸☝️
Man I wish I had something like that! I'm new to the hobby and I'm loving it! Great video man!
Thanks! It's been a really fun car to build and experiment with!
Wow nice your awesome at what you do learn something new... i got same chassis on my slash what motor and esc you recommend for drag racing on the street eliminator class working on a built on another slash i got
Hey do you guys sell kits or RTR cars I will be interested on getting one like THAT, WILL BE AWESOME
Did the 130t servo work good? What will be the difference be from the 130t and the 120t
The T-130 is excellent! It and the T-120 are very similar in speed and torque, the only difference is the 130 is a full size servo and the 120 is a Lo-Pro.
Any chance you would share the file for printing that wheelie bar?
I am going to make some changes to it so it mounts a little better and then I will probably offer them up!
🇺🇸🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
Are you runing a ball diff
Gear diff in this car, has 100K fluid in it.
Great video series, my only complaint is the background, your shirt and the car are all black, makes it tough to see what’s going on.
I've really been enjoying this build. However, in terms of "safety", soldering, with a battery pack right there, is NOT smart. To be completely honest, is one of the most idiotic things I've seen. Other than that one INCREDIBLY negative point, because of your build, I'm considering one of my own.
While I understand your concern, I'm not soldering on the battery pack itself and I never have it connected when soldering the leads. That being said, soldering next to a battery is less dangerous than soldering leads directly to LiPo cell tabs, which I have done before many times.
@@TekinRacing I'm sure that you know what you're doing, Ty. But, some people watching might go, "Hmmm, soldering right next to a LiPo is safe. I think I'll do the same.". In other words, "impressions". Using computers as an example, I have been known to edit the Registry...but, if anyone happens to be watching me, I always inform them to never do this, unless they are 100% certain of what they're doing (one wrong alpha-numeric character can crash the system).
I get it, but this really isn't any different than having to solder plugs onto a battery with built-in leads though. I've put connectors on more pre-wired batteries than I can count. You'd have to mess up pretty good with a soldering iron and a battery to put yourself in danger.
Never fails, a "know-it-all" has to chime in every time.
Remember back in the day when we had to solder batteries into the car before each race?