How to Waterproof Bricks
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- How I recently waterproofed the exterior bricks of my cottage using a breathable, waterproof, self cleaning masonry creme from Emperor Paint.
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0:00 Introduction
0:36 Background
3:16 How to Waterproof Bricks
4:16 Step 1 Wash Bricks
4:35 Step 2 Remove growth
4:59 Step 3 Repair holes & cracks
5:59 Step 4 Apply Creme
9:03 Subscribe to Me!
TODAY'S TOOLKIT:
(to follow shortly)
- Emperor Masonry Creme bit.ly/3FsLysH
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#masonry #creme #waterproof - Навчання та стиль
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Used a similar product on a wall of one of my garages. Great stuff. After 10 years it still works.
Love your videos as I’m currently renovating a solid brick house in Portugal suffering from salt pepper damp.I listen to them on 0.75 speed so I get all the information, specially the initial technical info!
Keep at it! Love the videos and they’ve helped me so much with my own DIY projects! Looking forward to seeing this (now quite large) project through to the end results!
I live in a solid brick house with no insulation and have thought doing this, no damp problems inside but definitely notice the heat loss when its wet weather.
Always love your videos Charlie, keep on doing what you're doing.
I have been using bonding liquid for years. Works amazing
Nice job there Charlie, love that beading of the water on the brick 👍
I used smartseal climashield masonry protection cream on the gable end of my house as it gets battered with wind driven rain. Only been on a few months but seems to be working well so far.
Great one this. I was looking for quite some time for a breathable product as I did the mistake of sealing then frost got behind etc. Thank for this Charlie.
You're welcome. Yep I'm loving this stuff. So satisfying seeing how dry the bricks look in spite of all this rain we've had.
Love your videos Charlie thanks
Personally I think these treatments have their place in solving a problem but that problem will stem from using porous bricks in the splash courses (i.e. below DPC level) and secondly from using a cementitious mortar with porous bricks.
I'm not one of the "breathable/nothing but lime mortar" fanatics but I certainly recommend looking at the advice offered from The Brick Development Association when it comes to specifying brick and mortar type selection. They have a great leaflet on Severely exposed brickwork that's well worth a read.
Thanks, I'll look at that 👊
Absolutely - I’m also not in the “nowt but lime” camp. But.. I’ve seen these sealants causing enormous problems, as a result of trapping moisture. It’s certainly not a product you’d want to use in many circumstances.
@@robertdavies922 Dont think thats rght Robert take a look at Skillbuilders vid truth about stormdry shows these products to be breathable
I used a similar product on this gravel render i have on my house in the med, it was from Sovereign Chemicals and is called weather check, about the same price and looks similar, it defiantly works, i have had it on for over 10 years and you can see how quickly my house drys out after rain compared to my neighbours with the same finishing. and yes its breathable.
Very, very useful
Great job Charlie.
This masonry cream is great. I have an old house (built 200 years ago) with hand made porous bricks. I used Sovereign 'Weather-Chek' facade cream, which in all fairness looks identical to the cream you used. My bricks did go very dark in colour once applied, but this faded in 2-3 days. It's not cheap, but a great barrier from the elements. Also has a life span of up to 25 years, which is way better than the clear water seal type liquids which only seem to last a year or two.
It's a good job you covered your patio area, I got some spots on a my stone path and still have marks two years later.
Thanks for this Charlie, again a product I've not come across before, so interesting to be made aware of its existence. I live in a relatively modern property so luckily don't feel the need to apply this as from their guidance it would cost me around a grand for the whole house. There are however a few places that routinely get and stay damp, so I may just try a tester on some small areas to see how it performs over time !
I wish people would double check what you've said, before charging in to criticise in the comments, it gets very tedious !
Be assured most of us appreciate your content, but still take personal responsibility for our own actions and do further research before deciding whether to follow what you've advocated or not as the case may be !
Thanks Andy. Yep the armchair tradesmen are a pain but it comes with the territory unfortunately. 🤦
Great video. I will be giving this product a go.
Thanks. I'm seriously impressed but then I was with the paint and have recommended it to various friends who also love it👊
Great video as always, I appreciate your take on things so I'm aware of the 'proper' way to do things, not necessarily the 'screwfix forum' way.
Thanks, really appreciate that. 👊
Brilliant ❤
You are amazing!
Always love to see that beautiful Labrador in your videos.
I used a different brand of cream. After a few months the water beading is really impressive.
Hi
Can you tell me the brand that you used please?
Thanks
Hey Charlie, thanks for the video! Any chance of putting a video together regarding how to install PVC windows properly to regs! I got new windows installed but feel like its not air tight! Could do with knowing what could of been missed! I know for a fact that cavity inserts wasn't installed!
you have insulation after brick work so no damp penetration, but adding the weather solution will help
That was my thinking 👍
Looks good. Bit concerning that it’s disappearing from the bit you put on the resin with every rainfall though. Will it not wash off the walls then too eventually?
Great video, I need some advice please, I have a brick built lock up which the rear brick wall faces a railway embankment and is north facing, this wall is showing damp patches through to inside! How would you go about preventing further damp ingress through this brick any particular product, the unit is heated during winter. Keep up the good work 👍🚀
Totally honest video no bull
Thanks Kevin 👊
4 to 1 is a very strong mortar mix!
Naaaah just been pointing a Victorian house and 4-1 tests was a bit weak 3-1 did the job
I plan on doing something similar for my lower bricks of my 20's house including repointing, the other issue I have is water bridging across below ground level. In my sitting room if i lift the boards its soil, and in the bottom 1/4 there is water which doesn't stand but does increase when it rains and I can see the water coming through the bricks below the external ground level. I don't know wether just to dig down in stages and apply a sealant, or to attach an external membrane to the wall and poor a deep concrete skirt below ground level around side of the house that gets the water. I'm unsure how deep the footings are though.
Charlie
Love the content but I have a question for you. I have a neighbours retaining brick wall that sits about 5ft higher than my path separating their property from my garage. Obviously over the years th we e had been an awful lot of water ingress that leaves my side looking damp and looking ready to lose its facing. So my question is how do I protect the bricks??
Is this crème suitable? Or can you suggest an alternative please?
Regards Alan
Any reason why you didn’t apply a lime based breathable render to the bricks and then applied this on top to protect from rain splashing?
Will this work on painted face bricks and plastered walls.
Hi, any advice on removing old paint and applying new breathable paint? We are buying a house and we are aware of few issues of the old paint being cracked at places and potentially being not breathable. Any advice on what product/approach to use to remove the old paint the easiest way and then what product to apply. Thank you in advance!
This stuff is a lot cheaper from smartseal, climasheild masonry protection cream, it's the same cream. £157.95 10ltrs compared to £250 from emperor. Good video.
Thanks Paul. I'm annoyed I didn't go into what the alternatives are. 🤦
The newer thompsons water seal is water based and allows your bricks to breath still, but i dont think its as good at preventing moisture seeping in as it was when it was oil based
Could you apply this to the bricks inside and outside of a single skin garage wall?
Hi Charlie, can you recommend anything for stone render?
Hi Charlie, I’m thinking of using this product, I’ve got a solid brick house that’s rendered I’m about to start internal wall insulating it and was thinking about painting this on the bricks internally before I start the insulation process, do you think there’s any pros or cons to doing this?
Will the cream work on garden walls?
Can this be applied on interior brick or breezeblock behind plasterboard? Ive had a leak from a roof and its tracked down the cavity wall between mine and my neighbours house but water was coming in on my side and the breeze block is a bit wet. Will let it all dry out but want to use a sealant of sorts to ensure no moisture will result in damp or mould issues. Any help or advice would be gratefully received.
Id like to water proof a wall this spring, which i eventually plan on rendering when our extension is finished. Would you advise against using the product, or similar, if we are planning to render over the whole lot?
Thanks for the video, I definitely need to do this. Shouldn’t you use a lime mortar for breathability too?
You're welcome. I'm so pleased with this stuff. Yes possibly but I'm not going to get too hung up about a couple of mortar lines particularly as the builders used a sand and cement mix for the new extension.
Plenty to do the videos should be interesting. Keep up the good work the end is in sight....i think.👍👍
Great Video 👍 Question: my house at the (front) is a concrete breeze blocked with rendered on it. What type of black paint would you use at buttom of the house? Bitumen or something else. Thanks Mark
Does it need to be black? If not I'd paint with a breathable paint like Emperor. Depends what paint is there already but I use Bostik bituminous for loads of jobs. Not sure if you can paint it on concrete though.
Great video Charlie, thanks. Does this product work below ground? Found damp entering unpointed bricks just above the footings, a leaking cement down pipe hopper contributing to the problem and hiding the location. Solid Stock brickwalls, (1934 build). The location is to be covered below ground once treated.
Maybe get in touch with them. I'm not sure the answer to that but I guess it could work but I'd only consider this if you've separated the brick from the below ground soil etc with a soakaway or similar, as this product is designed to breathe.
The proof is in whether it's still waterproof after years. I have used Stormdry on extension and Thomsons Waterseal on side and front of house which after still waterproof after a few years. It's very visible on the tile cladding as the water beads and runs off.
I can't see why it wouldn't be and in fact as it sinks in and attaches to the molecular structure of the brick you'd think it would be better than a product that skins on the surface. Time will tell. 👍
Hi Charlie,
Thank you for the great videos. Can this be done to old Victorian brick inside walls? I have a cold damp wall in one of my rooms. Mould always appears in winter.
Hmm, is the wall bare brick? I think you need to get some ventilation first or check out the points in this video ua-cam.com/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/v-deo.htmlsi=_TYOFKEzSV8u0Mif Also, you need to establish if the damp is coming from outside rather than trying to tackle it from the inside.
Hi Charlie, thanks for sharing - really helpful video as always. I'm guessing this wouldn't be affective on an already painted wall as the brick wouldn't be able to absorb it effectively? Do you have any tips on how to treat an already painted wall (red brick) or is it a case of stripping the paint back and starting again from scratch?
You nailed it in the last sentence.
Try the Emperor paint instead of creme but follow their prep instructions
Nice informative video, thinking about using Storm dry which is a similar product. I only have 2 questions... 1) Will this keep the house warmer in winter? Of course you cant beat insulation but a dry wall is warmer than a wet wall when the wind hits it.. 2) Can i use EWI on the wall in future after waterproofing it?
I think yes is the answer to each of these 👊
Would you use the cream on Accrington brick / stock bricks which are very dense.
Din't see why not. Probably best to ask them before buying though.
Best of luck to DIY son on his Duke of Edinburgh!
We are getting cold/ damp bridging inside our conservatory, which is built onto the garage, so the exterior wall of the garage is the interior of the conservatory on the other side of the window if that makes sense. The wall in question is rendered and painted, could this creme or other water seal be applied over this finish to prevent the damp cross bridging the window?
I don't think so. It needs to be applied direct to the brick. You could tank the wall but I think you need to find out what's creating the damp.
I'm not sure what you mean by Thompsons water seal not being breathable?
Thompson's One Coat Water Seal Ultra
The breathable waterproofing membrane allows moisture vapour inside the substrate to evaporate whilst protecting against the water penetration and damage. A third of the price.
I didn't specifically say Thomson's wasn't breathable. I just said a lot of them aren't.
Good stuff, mine was called stormdry and is BBA approved.
i used the same 'stormdry' stuff years ago. i thought it was costly at the time but the product it starting to shine. i see the water just running of the bricks. The stormdry customer services is very bad and i suggest anyone before buying these products, request a sample and try it on a small spot.
@@nthlevel
I didn't think it was expensive, I know it was 😄 but as you say it works.
I have something similar on an old end terraced house (With no cavity). I've been suggested to get some permaseal to stop the rain from constantly bombarding the gable end. Are there any suggestions from any of you who know what you're doing on if this is the right solution?
This cream has worked wonders. I think there's another one a bit cheaper - Stormdry..?
Does it make sense to do this treatment in the UK autumn/winter? Would that end up just trapping existing moisture in the walls? I left it too late clearly!
I was fortunate in that we've had since really dry weather recently so I want worried about trapping moisture in. Yes you should only use this when they bricks are dry.
👍👍👍
Hi Charlie, is most of the brickwork in your cottage built with lime mortar? I may have missed it in a previous video, but is there a downside to using cement mortar?
The original is but the replaced foundations have been done with sand cement lime mix. The lime being purely aesthetic (to lighten the mix).
Stormdry is slightly cheaper and has BBA approval. and cert saying will last for 25 years ! Dont think ill be here then .Will u be doing all of your house with Emperor Charlie? Great vid !
Yes definitely all the outside of it. Thanks for sharing. I should have mentioned Stormdry 👊
Do you think you can do this now with the temperatures dropping below 20 °?
Temperature must be above 5 degrees and relative humidity not more than 80%
Is this cream better than StormDry?
SAME
I am thinking to do an external wall isolation, is it Diy or knowledge is important ?
It'll be a big ask doing that yourself but do the research and see if it's something you can do single handed. 👍
my mother in law lives in Macedonia, she has a metal heater that is rusting. what kind of oil based primer and paint do you guys have in Europe similar to kilz primer and paint?
Bonda Rust primer is my primer of choice and then an oil based metal top coat.
Charlie, as you're loving the Emperor stuff, why not re-point as you need, then use their paint on the mortar lines. This way all the mortar lines will be the same colour, waterproof and breathable.
Force of habit I guess and wanting a plasticiser in the mortar but yes you've got a point.
I've been looking at this product and was horrified at the cost - £230 a 10l tub! But I suppose over it's lifetime and the potential issues that it can prevent then it's got to be a worthwhile investment.
I know! It's expensive. I've done two coats though and got half the tub left so it does go a fairly long way.
That's less than £1 per year for the protection. Many other companies sell it too. Stormdry for instance...
I'd be interested to hear if it's actually breathable? If it keeps moisture out, how can it be breathable from the inside outwards?
I enjoy your videos, thank you!
Same as their paint. It's the way it attaches to the molecular structure. I'm no scientist though.
Can this be used on stone built houses?
No. Stone and brick need to breath or you will trap water and push it inside !
Don't even think about it. It'll destroy your wall.
@@growingknowledgeIt’s breathable so what you’ve said isn’t relevant at all
Stormdry is another product, isn’t it? And rendering over that? I think that may cause a lot of problems with bonding.
Yes I should have mentioned Stormdry and yes I think any of these products would give you an issue with rendering.
@@CharlieDIYte if you ever try and render over it, I think there would be a way, it would make an interesting video too, it would be a hail Mary of a job if there was a lot of water resistance in the wall too.
All very interesting but please get the right names for what you're talking about that is not a concrete plinth but a strong mix of sand and cement which in its day was common practice up to the damp course.
Not sure I agree this isn't a plinth but fine
Your using sand and cement mortar, this locks in the Damp!. So the damage is all ready starting!. Will take years to come to light.
Back in the old days, people used tallow, animal fat/grease and linseed oil. Why don't we use them again?
Good knowledge. 👌
Hi Charlie. Is there a reason why you didn’t remove all the concrete up to the rendering. Kind regards 😀👍
That's very much the intention but I've got two issues. 1) more pressing jobs right now and 2) the bricks are in a terrible mess so I don't know what I'll find. In that particular section I may end up having to re-render the plinth. I don't want to do that as I'd like the bricks to breathe but it all depends just how bad they are when I strip the plinth off.
@@CharlieDIYte fully understand your situation. Kind regards as always 👍
Architect here. Waterproofing bricks is a stupid, stupid thing to do. There are almost no circumstances where external waterproofing of bricks makes any sense at all. If you want to destroy your brickwork, there is scarcely anything you could do that would be more effective.
bodge after bodge after bodge.
A tub is £125 for 5 litres or £240 for 10! It would be cheaper to use hollow soffitboard the walls than this paint and the cladding would be life time.
You’d need more than 10 litres for a whole house walls.
I'm not a builder but i thought all bricks were waterproof?
Nope they arnt all waterproof. There a video on the skill builder channel with a competing product that shows water in a tube sealed up against bricks and you can sea air bubbling through the bricks and water leaking through. I believe engineering bricks are less porous but not sure if they are fully waterproof. Typically engineering bricks are used below the damp course and then cheaper bricks above.
"Brick walls are intended to 'breathe'. They are permeable to moisture and water vapour, and this allows them to dry out if moisture penetrates them from the inside or outside. Any action taken to prevent this can have unforeseen consequences and should not be undertaken without careful consideration."
@@davideyres955 Being cheaper isn't the reason they are used above the damp course, it's more to do with their increased breathability.
Use nothing but Secoflex
Are you sure?..
Commercial snake oil..
Never seal bricks they need to breath and no sealer will seal and breath its tosh
TWO coats at 125 quid a 5l shot? Really ?
It's probably overkill in my opinion. I'm not sure why you don't have any air bricks or weep vents.
No cavity
9:13 😮
Im pretty aure this isnt the rifht approach for many situations. Always ask a specialist who knows about the fabric of buildings, and how the breathe and solve water ingress, before doing thinfs like this.
The breathability is going to tick a lot of boxes with the specialists.
Buildings need to breathe wots the obsession with air tight bulidings
My place isn't air tight - I'm a little obsessed with ventilation but I want to stop water getting in from outside. It's a different point.
I'm a Mason 25 years , this will ruin porius bricks , should not be used on old building.
Agree they shouldn't have been used but that's how things sometimes pan out and you have to do the best you can. Not sure why it will ruin the bricks though. Time will tell!
Yeah don't do that.
Rain was torrential last night and I was so relieved to see those bricks dry as a bigger with water beading on the surface.
Dont do it! Let them breathe...
They do breathe but I had to stop them being a sponge for moisture.
@@CharlieDIYte why would there be moisture?
Limewash is the most suitable as it acts as sacrificial coat. Silicon based products aren't appropriate. You need to get more sustainable Charlie. Honestly, traditionally built properties need traditional methods/materials.
I love what you do in your videos but honestly feel this is misguided. Traditionalt built (mostly pre WW2) Brick and Stone built buildings need to breath or you will trap water and push it inside. Cement mortar also seals in damp and causes problems. Please dont take my word for it but have a google and avoid making expensive mistakes. Best of luck with the works !
The masonry cream is fully breathable, it won't trap moisture. Agree with you on cement pointing with older bricks though. You see many around that have spalled and cracked
He mentions in the vid all the points you made and says that the product is fully breathable and won't trap water inside the brick.
You obviously didn’t soak in any of what was said🤡
It’s a silane based cream, the same stuff you paint cob walls with
If you do a little research you'd find that the masonry creme treatment is better than a waterproof treatment as it actually let the walls breath how they should
Can it be painted onto a harled wall?
Apparently Harling should protect against wet climates according to Wikipedia so sounds like it’s not necessary.
@@davideyres955 cheers mate