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Thanks for the update Charlie. We moved into a 1969 bungalow a year last Oct which had big condensation issues. We watched your comprehensive video on mould and dehumidifiers. Bought the EBAC worked fantastically well. The hygrometer gave us all the relevant readings. The air bricks had no through flow it had been built with no means of air circulating inside, so It was damp and cold. New double glazing was fitted this July after which cavity wall insulation was added.That meant having a PIV fitted.It has transformed the bungalow in so many ways.Will be renew the loft insulation next year. Your time and effort over the years would have transformed many projects and always look forward to your finding. I have also passed the info on to others who have also benefited especially those in social housing who now can show evidence to the landlord. I now have a EBAC that i will pass on to a family member as it is not required.Once again many thanks for your time and effort.
Richard great to hear from you. It's so heartening hearing feedback like this. I had a similar air brick issue in my old London house. The mortgage company made certain damp work a requirement of the loan and a few years later I found the company who installed them hadn't bothered to knock them all the way though to the underfloor cavity. You've done everything right there, right down to installing a PIV. So glad to hear it's sorted out all the problems. Must be very satisfying now, living in your wonderfully dry, warm home. You just want to have the odd trickle vent open on the windows now you've got them double glazed, to help the PIV do it's work. 👍
Iv been a decorator for 27 years iv been treating mould a lot over the past few months and the way you’ve just shown is the correct way. 👍 ventilation is the key, people never got mould back in the day before upvc windows. But still trickle vents could be opened but they never are when I call to treat mould
I used to develop antifouling paint for the marine industry. I reckon you are probably right. For the biocide to work it needs to get into the beasties. Could be that the very top layer of paint has depleted it's biocide. So it's efficiency is dropping a bit. Revisit it next year. Suspect it would be a touch worse. In marine the sea water brings the biocide to the surface. Not sure the biocide deeper down this coating will be able to come to the surface to work? Unless the damp does it (which is plausible). Nothing another coat of paint wouldn't fix I reckon.
I had a black mold problem after a flood, I treated several times with white vinegar sprayed on and painted over with normal emulsion paint, still ok two years on.
Great video Charlie, good idea to return to this a year on. We live in a listed building with a semi basement that suffered from damp and mould. We’ve had great success with Wickes Mould Protect emulsion paint which I think is similar to those discussed in your video.
Thanks Jamie. Good luck with the treatment. Make sure you dry the wall fully and after applying the BIN I think a paint that's impervious to moisture and with biocide in like Perma White is important. 👍
Great video, totally agree with PIV units, I've had mine for 1 year and has made massive difference on condensation forming and subsequent mould growth ( I don't have any regrowth)
Fitted a PIVin our 40 year old bungalow , absolutely transformed our house. Had mould/condensation forming on walls and windows. Virtually eliminated now. Absolutely brilliant system.
@@fanfeck2844 Not at all. I opted for the Nuaire system with the heater option. It just hums a bit like air conditioning. It’s just a revelation in our house.
I really appreciate your videos and help, we have a persistent damp/mould problem from a 1930s house with solid walls upstairs. I’ve gone Zinsser mould killer then BIN where needed after your other vid. The emulsion throughout needed a different approach. Brewers sold me an additive - Owatrol VC175 -so you can keep a paint colour but add a fungicide. Fingers crosses that works … I think it was about £20 that would treat 10L paint.
A good idea to have a review of something like this as it is useful to see if something worked. A long term review of some of the other projects like the recent gutter and downpipe paint, built-in wardrobes would be good to see too. Though the Zinsser BIN seems expensive it does seem to cover well and the tin last for a long time. The mould on that wall would appear to be on the surface rather than a wall that had a damp issue. We had a similar issue with our ceiling in one room, thoroughly cleaned it and checked it wasn't caused by anything else apart from condensation at a cold spot. Used the BIN and then just used a normal ceiling emulsion over that. It has not returned so was effective. That one tin of BIN has been used on loads of projects on MDF and some other problem areas so doesn't seem as expensive as I initially thought. Our house is 30+ years old and the original wooden framed windows were great for ventilation as the quality of them was awful. Replacing them meant the ventilation got worse and mould was more apparent. Apart from ourselves, main source of moisture is the kettle and cooking which is hard to avoid. At this time of year also washing drying indoors. Improving the ventilation would help but the dehumidifier has been a significant factor in fighting moisture. It is a case of spotting problem areas, treating them and then monitoring the area.
Hi Glen, thanks for this. Yes you getting a dehumidifier was a great investment. Having a few hygrometers around the house is also very useful. If the RH goes much advice 60% you know you need to seeing into action in the room in question. I try and leave a few windows on the half latch during the day but that's easy for me living in the countryside and working from home. I appreciate it's problematic for others to do this, although if you have trickle vents on the bare windows I'd say keep them all open 👍
Thing is if u remove what ever surface u still have it in the air. It Is a natural element in air. So if damp hasn't been sorted it will grow back. As I said a year ago. Wash with distilled water then paint with bin 123 and paint an anti mould paint. I've been doing iy foe years no call backs
Thanks Lee. Agreed. If you can't insulate the wall (to prevent the dew point being reached) or increase ventilation, this is the best option as at least you're preventing moisture sinking into the wall, and with the biocide, preventing mould taking hold.
Charlie I used to do 100s of mould treat jobs in my last job. What you have done here is perfect and new mould will always form on the surface due to your poor ventilation and damp shoes ect. If it was coming from the wall it would push through damaging the plaster and showing rot on the skirting. Good video thanks
Thanks Peter, coming from a pro like yourself I really appreciate that endorsement. Good point about the damaged plaster and rotting skirting. I should have mentioned that👊
Yup - I have rising damp in an INTERNAL brick wall. I chiselled off the plaster to about a foot high and let the bricks be bare for several months. The wooden skirting board was rotten on the back side. The floors either side of the wall had been concreted, so I was only able to install DryRods at the level of the TOP of the lowest row of bricks. Months later I replastered the wall down to about 6" above the floor, so about 1 1/2 rows of bricks were still bare, above the DryRods line. Left that for some more months, and then covered the new plaster with Zinsser's Shellac-based sealer paint (the wall was to be re-wallpapered), and fitted plastic skirting boards WITH some ventilation areas so that the damp rising into the very lowest row of bricks could still escape -SLOWLY- into the room. Everything was great for some months, but then eventually the SALTS in the wall burst through the shellac paint! The bricks HAD been treated with salts neutraliser on the other side (in an understairs cupboard). Still not rewallpapered yet - looking for the next thing to try (!)
@@hunchanchoc8418 Tough one ? Maybe (if I read well exactly ‘What’ you did ?) The other side of wall application against salts just forced them to cross the wall to the other side ? Water vapour and therefore salts, has to find a way out ...somewhere ? I am only learning it must be said...it’s a subtle learning curve...Damp that is ...(NOT rising damp !)
@@gortagnan You're probably right. It's disheartening. I'm thinking the only likely 'solution' will be taking the plaster off yet again and installing dimple sheet, and plasterboard over. :-/
It looks like the system has worked to a level because it seems that the mould has became a dormant state where it’s appeared again but to a state where it cannot grow or do anything basically it’s asleep or dead ish
I think it's basically created an impervious layer which the moisture in the air can't get a hold onto, and the biocide p prevents the mould forming. Air circulation would be ideal but in the absence of this, this is the next best thing.
I find that TSP (trisodium phosphate) is a good treatment for removing surface mould, followed up with the paints you suggested. The real battle is fixing the root cause of the condensation though (as noted in the video).
Exactly. We have a far from ideal situation given the lack of ventilation but I used a dehumidifier to dry out the wall before I treated it, and at least this paint solution has comprehensively prevented any moisture getting back into the wall. I think the result is pretty satisfactory given the circumstances. 👍
@@CharlieDIYte What plaster does it have? How did you dry the wall? Have you not now trapped any moisture which is cold attracting high enviroment moisture levels creating condensation to find your cold non ventalated area?
Thanks this helped the house has it everywhere we stripped concrete wall downstairs and repainted it looks good been about a year now but I see what ya mean it needs another coat and I'm going to put heat lamp and ultraviolet bulb to see what happens they say ultraviolet will do something . Zinseer paint is good product I had to save my money but it's worth it
Could it be that dust is on the wall forming a coating which is not in contact with the paint and this is what the mould is growing on? I believe that a large part of household dust is human skin flakes which mould can grow on.
I can second that white vinegar. Living in a old Irish farmhouse I regularly do a "mold patrol" with my spray bottle of white vinegar with added tea tree oil for extra mold killing power.
I think it depends how bad and why. I had a ceiling with mold and even with anti mold paint it would still come back, even after replacing the section with new anti mold paint.
Let me tell you my story cause I have dealt with this many times. I have garage boxes and they have no heating or light or whatsoever and are not attached to a house only in a group to each other. Had a mould problem on the ceiling years ago. I cleaned it wit a brush and high concentrated water/chlorine solution, turning my old jogging suite from black to yellow and since I am bald, no damage to the hair hehehe. After some days of drying I painted it with a local Dutch brand of concealer and paint from Alabastine. Since there were some holes above the door for ventilation I also made two in the back wall to generate some draft. Now I rent them out and 2 years ago, I changed renters and did a check up, all was still great, after 10 or more years, very happy about the product. Buts as you mentioned, FIRST GET RID OF THE MOULD IN A GOOD WAY, then paint !
I used the Ronseal product three years ago in my mother's bathroom. The mould has returned in the worst areas and paint crazing is evident in other areas.
Now this is going to sound strange and the first time I saw it done I nearly fell over. Wait until night or the room is dark and place a small flashlight (Maglite Penlight for example) on the surface of the wall so as to generate "raking light" (flashlight is positioned parallel to the wall surface) - you hold the light at full arm extension so your viewing angle is more or less perpendicular to the surface - if the surface is relatively flat and mold is present you will see mold that you ordinarily do not see in full light - works particular well on varnished surfaces like doors and cabinets and wooden beams. I use this techniques all the time to see the extent of a problem. My trusty Maglite is one of the older models that is not LED - I have never actually tried this with a Led flashlight. Sometimes you need one person to hold the light and wiggle it a bit depending on the surface and another person to stand back to observe. It is common to find mold behind cabinets because the air does not circulate and a micro climate exists.
I should also say that you can also find missing features like former windows outlines and nail holes in drywall and plaster with the same technique. We could probably trace Charlie's exterior crack repair on his home (his repairs were very good)
Thanks Gregory. That's a great tip. I had a couple of those non LED Maglites. Don't know what happened to them. Loved taking the glass cover off and standing the torch on it to use like a candle. 👍
The wall's been demolished now but it was mould free. People get very obsessed about how hard it is to eradicate mould but if you do what I did and treat the wall with a biocide paint that prevents it taking hold, you shouldn't have a problem.
Yes that's a decent suggestion. Problem is, the buckets below the bench are always full so the vents wouldn't have much effect. If I was worried, an air vent in the wall would probably be the best bet.
Belt and braces and also because it's what Zinsser recommend in that little hands book of theirs - which I recommend you getting as it's free to order. I suspect the "self priming" is a marketing thing - make it all singing and dancing and it will sell even better, but to do the job portals and guarantee top coat adhesion priming is always recommended.
I think it was this one, bit.ly/3DG6R9k although if you're thinking of installing one, use a small length of soil pipe through the wall rather than that metal pipe as the fluff won't get caught on it nearly as much. 👍
Started following your channel recently as they are very informative thank you for that. I have a question as many homes suffer with damp on the ceiling in our bathroom through the winter. I’m thinking about getting the B.I.N mould killer proof primer but do I have to also get the perma white paint as well or can I use ordinary deluxe white emulsion over the top of it instead. We have a similar issue in the bedroom next to the bathroom but the mould only ever forms along the ceiling above the window.
Charlie, what do you think about the mechanical heat recovery systems instead of PIV? More expensive to buy and possibly to run, but perhaps more effective?
Great Im moving into my fixer upper soon and this will help with the damp, do you have any recommendation for a house that has been heavily smoked in obviously sugar soap and a wipe down but zinza bin on all walls and ceilings will bankrupt me, does anyone have some advice???
It's this one buddy amzn.to/30L0JOs (affiliate link) I just had to pull out the grill because it'll get quickly clogged up with fluff. I'm going to prime and paint the exterior of it the same colour as the wall.
My house is 14 years old detached bungalow... At each corner of both north facing walls, I'm getting mould patches ..plenty of insulation no leaks... What is causing it
Bad ventilation most probably. We generate massive amounts of vapour each day and if you don't have adequate extraction or open the windows it's got nowhere to go. Watch my vid bit.ly/3glMu6H as it will change your thinking on this. The areas your mould is forming are cold spots most likely because of gaps in the insulation where it's cold bridging.
Yes you can. I guess it'll just negate the effect of the biocide in the paint but provided you've treated the original mould and have taken steps to stop it coming back ua-cam.com/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/v-deo.htmlsi=1x4TpDePcC9J7AsM
In my box room small bedroom when I was a kid in 80s, my dad stuck polystyrene on the whole of the wall then wallpapered over it. Is this a suitable option nowadays?
I actually had polystyrene backed wall paper to strip off in this cottage. Quick answer to your question - no, because the insulating effect is very low - although I don't know how thick the polystyrene was your Dad put up. I suppose it might warm up the surface enough to stop mould forming on it but you've got the problem of condensation forming behind it if you're not careful.
Hi Charlie. I ripped off the wallpaper with polystyrene backing and the wall ( window bay) dried out within a day but the plaster needed to be scraped off and its been replastered. Because it is a single wall stone wall (1900 terrace house) this wall is cold and I get a condensation and some paint started flicking off ( only painted it with white emulsion). The radiator is hanged on that wall to heat it up. Also recently started using dehumidifier but with constantly rain and humid air it is only getting a bit better. I will try bin/ zinser when it get warmer and the wall dry. My question is regards to maybe insulating the bay window to as u say stop the dew point but how to do it without cold bridging? Any help much appreciated. Thanks
Hi Charlie, I have a mould issue in our bathroom & I would like to repaint the walls and tiles. For the walls I plan to follow your previous advice and use a mould killer, Zinsser BIN & Perma white. The walls are half tiled and the grout is badly affected by mould. Do I need to purchase Zinsser Bullseye for the tiles or can I use the former treatment for the tiled areas?
I spoke to Zinsser previously about painting tiles and they don't recommend it in a splash zone. You could try some of this stuff ua-cam.com/users/shortsyMydK5oHSj4?feature=share
Hi Charlie, my husband used HG Mould Remover and Dulux damp seal in august and the mould is back! We live in a 1930’s bungalow and along every outside wall there’s mould growing mainly in the corners and majority above the skirting boards. The bungalow has cavity walls with no insulation and they are icy cold! Any advice what we can do would be greatly appreciated. Thank you 😊
Sorry to hear that Tracey. Check out this video and let me know if you've got any questions. ua-cam.com/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/v-deo.html The key is you must get some ventilation into that bungalow so the moisture you're generating can escape. Installing a PIV or just buying a dehumidifier will help enormously.
Hi Charlie just an update. I bought 4 of the Thermpro TP-55 I put one in each bedroom and 1 in each of the kitchen and lounge. 3 rooms were ok but our bedroom was at 58% during the afternoon and evening but during the night it went up to 76% 😳 this room has an open brick vent outside which has a plastic vent over it in the bedroom which can’t close. Do you think this could this be causing the damp issues? Thank you.
Hi I've got a mold problem in my shower room on the ceiling Is it best to change my extract fan to a inline fan or should i just antimould spray. Ps Great video 👍💪
Check out this vid ua-cam.com/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/v-deo.html Have you got a window you can open whilst showering? You should squeegee the shower after each use - dramatically reduces moisture in there. Inline fans are much more powerful but it depends on how long your duct run is and if you've got room for an in-line. They're loft mounted most of the time. Most wall fans are axial and they're only designed for very short runs ie through the brick work.
@@CharlieDIYte hi got no widow in the shower room. Have a very long duct from the ceiling fan to the outside vent. Just checked duct it's all squashed is that a problem cos the foam is on top.
Hi Charlie, I have a question, you have probably been asked this. How do you solve this problem with mould. The colour of my room where I am getting mould has been painted a grey and I am getting it within a corner of a room. So there’s a bit on the ceiling and 2 corners of the wall. So if I paint it with mould paints and what I have seen so far are all White so would that mean I would have to change the colour of the whole room or can you apply the 2 applications and paint over it in the Grey colour that is on the wall.
You certainly could, Michael. It would be fantastic for that and there's also Zinsser Ceiling Pro 5 in 1 to be aware of. You can get Perma White tinted to your own colour too.
@@CharlieDIYte thanks so much for that Charlie, much appreciated. Despite having a fan in my bathroom we still get a bit of mould around the edge of the ceiling so will try this paint. 👍🏼
Charlie I have the same issues on some external walls My worry is even with zinnser which is fantastic btw in bathrooms etc is that the wall sweats and damages wood laminate floor below. Any chance you can address how to solve that issue permanently as it’s not everywhere but in certain parts which doesn’t get air movement , I heard ronseal do a product that insulates the wall and raises dew point but never tested it. Thanks in advance and I hope you see my comment.
You have to get better ventilation in this room. Have you watched this video ua-cam.com/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/v-deo.html My suggestion would be in the short term at least, if you can't open the windows because of security etc then get a decent dehumidifier.
The key is keeping relative humidity below 60% and keeping ventilation flowing. That way new mould won't form and existing can't proliferate. But that paint did a great job here.
Excellent video Charlie. You have gone to great lengths to explain what you are doing, the materials you have used (along with chatting to the suppliers), the way you have carried out the work and the honest results. This vid is a classic example. You really can't have done more. I'm a handyman and have found your videos soooo helpful. Please do keep posting.
If mould formed once, it will want to form again, either left over spores or new ones. With regular maintenance though it's easy to keep on top of. I think a problem is a lot of people seem to expect an area to require no cleaning or anything for years at a time which is rather silly. Regular light maintenance will keep areas clean and mould free. Get back into the old fashioned spring clean routine (though spring is bad time as the weather is still damp, I do it in the summer when things dry better).
I was born in 1947 we lived in a council house with a coal fire. We never had any damp or mould problems. We had an oven in the kitchen linked to the coal fire. My mother often dried clothes on a clothes horse put in front of the oven, and still no damp problems. We didn't have radiators all we had was a back boiler behind the fire to heat the water. Coal fires allowed the house to breathe. Later on, the council fitted a gas boiler and radiators. That's when the problems started, we started getting damp problems, the windows were always damp on the inside. Many years later I had a Housing Association bungalow, due to my health problems. The Housing Association in their great wisdom decided to insulate the loft to the current standard. A damp-proofing firm filled the cavity walls with insulation( pumped in). That was when the bungalow started getting damp problems. Mould started to appear on every wall. It became a constant battle to keep the walls mould-free. The windows were always streaming with water. My wife and I are in our late seventies and in very poor health, I try to keep windows open as much as possible, all the time in summer. We are causing more problems by having our homes over-insulated. The house needs to breathe. Cavity walls were designed to do just that. There is no great mystery as to why people have damp problems. Many people can not afford to heat their homes as due to an incompetent government fuel prices have gone through the roof. People on minimum wages and pensioners on a single basic pension, like myself are struggling to live. In this country, the rich get rich and the poor are forgotten about. The basic pension starts at £130, you don't get far on that. I would like to see if the Prime Minister or our overpaid MPs could survive on what I have to live on. THERE IS NO WAY THEY COULD.
In a short while there will be no one left to remember the intense long lasting heat of a coal fire…never any mould in my grandparents house like you say, wishing ironing all sorts going on. Everyone had better get used to being cold in the future, all very well until you get older.
Great video mate and thank you for the mention. But for anyone else reading this I would strongly suggest heading over to the buy me a coffee section and discord as it really is a fantastic group of people constantly helping each other out and the advice that some of the guys give is worth it's weight in gold!
I had a constant war with a small patch of wall adjacent to a chimney breast in a previous home, but finally nailed it by freeing up air space and stripping the wall back and treating it before leaving. Glad you sorted it. I just used Damp Seal, by the way. Difficult to apply, but works well.
Thanks for the honest revisit! Lots of DIY videos out there but it is easy to temporarily fix an issue. How a method fairs in the long term is important info we dont often get. Also, your caulking videos have me producing much better results. Indistinguishable (or better) than jobs I have paid professionals to do.
Charlie the area of wall you exposed when you removed the access panel looked a bit mouldy to me, a decent sized vent fixed into that panel should help air flow. It would be good to get a scientific point of view on mould removal/eradication, a painters opinion or somebody who had previously worked in the industry, well you know, who knows what to believe.The Mould removal industry is purportedly worth $200 Billion dollars, surely there is somebody with a white coat and suitable qualifications who has scientific evidence of how to kill and prevent mould from reoccurring based on sound evidence? Love your channel...
I had quite bad black mould in the disabled wet room. After a look through the internet I used a 3% solution of Hydrogen Peroxide in a spray bottle, left for 10 minutes, gave it a scrub wiped down,. when dry I painted it with the Powerfix anti mould and mildew paint from Lidl, it's latex based so water resistant too. The mould hasn't come back after 2 years. Why did I use that method? Because it's inexpensive compared to those specialist paints by big names and most important, it works.
After watching your original video I used the Zinsser on my office/gym walls, converting it from a disused bedroom that had very bad mould/condensation. After using the mould killer, the walls were left for a month with lots of summer air flowing through the room. I then used the water based Zinsser BIN and the Permawhite. I have to say I am very impressed with the Permawhite, just one coat was enough for me, my only complaint is the smell, it really does wiff! I've also fitted a humidistat extractor fan as there will be a lot of huffing and puffing due to exercise. So it will be interesting to see if any mould forms, but thanks for the information Charlie, your videos are extremely helpful.
Sounds like you did everything spot on there, Mark. I like the fact you used the summer weather to thoroughly dry out the wall before sealing it. BIN is shellac based - presumably that's what you meant? Yes the Perma White is fantastic. It's not surprising it's a bit wiffy given its solvent properties and the biocide, but an acceptable trade off IMO given its benefits. Great work 👍
Hi Charley , I have used the insulated plasterboard and I think it would be perfect for your location . You could put it straight onto the wall ,making a thermal break which would prevent a cold surface to course a problem Best wishes and kind regards 😀👍👍👍
Yes absolutely and in fact I've done 3 bedrooms upstairs with this. With the wall now warm, the dew point can't be reached and so mould doesn't form. With insulated plasterboard you just have to be careful about potential cold bridging in corners, plug sockets and around the windows. I'm still learning the perfect technique, but got it pretty good in our bedroom where I battened the wall, infilled with 1 inch celotex PIR board, foil taped over the battens and then screwed insulated plasterboard on top. That way there was no cold bridging where you have to cut through the plasterboard for electrical sockets.
I picked up some Mould Wash Concentrate and Anti Mould Paint Additive direct from Permaguard. Cost about £28 inc delivery for both. The great thing about the paint addictive is that you can add it to which ever paint colour you wish and are not restricted to the availability of which ever brand is in the local store. The mould wash works a treat for any surface. I applied both in April and have not even seen an attempted regrowth!
Excellent news behind the bench! I used your solution and products (as per previous bench video) on a couple of areas that have caused annual hassle and now, so far, not a spot of anything! I will update again in about April next year to see how these areas have fared over the winter months. Thanks again - brilliant thinking, balanced advice, demos and results!
Just wondering if the wall is solid or has a cavity , If its solid I would imagine it will need some sort of insulation to stop condensation forming on it ... Im no expert but it seems a logical step to take ...........
Good video with great result. Personally I'd vent the wall as its an outside wall. However each to there own. If something else works then brilliant 👍👍.
Hi Charlie - another great video thanks for posting. I missed the earlier one but have a patch of mold to treat at my house and my daughters so will be copying your approach. I think you should give Toolstation a heads-up before you post similar videos in future though as they appear to have sold out of Perma White! I got the last one in Ormskirk and nationally they have sold 18 in 24 hours - no coincedence I think !
Thanks Julian. Yes, and it would make what I'm doing so much more sustainable if I could occasionally benefit more from sales generated from my vids but there's very little inclination from the retailers on this. Particularly the larger ones at any rate. Another great product is the Zinsser Ceiling 5 in 1. Primes, seals and has the biocide - all in 1. From memory though I don't think it can be tinted, which the Perma White can. 👍
In my experience dehumidifier is go to option. It was a dear one, couple of hundred but never thought of mould again. I live in a flat, though. So not many external walls and one is enough just have to wheel it around from room to room.
Yes, in that video I mentioned, the main thrust of the video was about dehumidifiers. Great to vastly reduce relative humidity around the home but they won't stop condensation forming on windows and the like. Crucial though, particularly in an apartment like yours when perhaps you're producing a lot of moisture from hanging up washing, cooking and bathing, without there being anywhere for it to escape.
Thanks Tahir. Yes not ideal in terms of the lack of air circulation but by providing an impermeable surface protected with biocide, there's nothing for the mould to latch onto. 👍
I would probably use Zinsser Ceiling Pro 5 in 1 as it primes, covers cracks and strains and seals and also contains a biocide. It's only available in white though I think so if you want it tinted then Perma White is good although if there are stains you'll need to prime that with Zinsser BIN first. www.zinsseruk.com/product/ceiling-pro-5-in-1/
I have one of these PIV in the loft my condensation is whose than ever we have even had the spray foam done are bathroom is the problem we didn’t have that much condensation but since we have had new bathroom fitted it is a lot worse. Can I put one of these humidifier in my bathroom if so which one is the best thank you
On the Zinsser product placement: a few carpenters and decorators I know recommend Zinsser products for pretty much every specialist situation every time. There are undoubtedly alternatives, but they're all going to be more expensive than regular paint anyway - so why bother potentially saving a few quid to gamble on whether they will work, when you know Zinsser will? I'd add that my natural inclination is to aways go for a "good enough" cheaper option where possible.
Yes people occasionally say my videos are stuffed with product placement but they have to be as you need all the tools or paint to do the job. My responsibility is to only place stuff I believe passionately in as being one of the best options for the job. I too know a lot of decorators who swear by Zinsser so that's one of the reasons I recommend the stuff so much. Its performance speaks for itself though 👍
Same problem Charlie. Used 70% vinegar to kill the mould. Sprayed it, let it dry. Repeated it a few times. Then used Zinnzar paint. Let it dry. Left it dry. & few months later painted the wall with emulsion paint. Looks great after 7 months. No mould issues
Great video Charlie I remember your first video removing the mould.if treated right mate it shouldn’t come back Just as long as you’ve got good ventilation simples 👍👍👍👍
I'd never use acrylic paint in a bathroom again. Solvent based paints are much much more mould resistant. I repainted the roof of our ensuite with a semi-gloss enamel but left the walls as-is. Any mould buildup now has a distinct variation between wall and ceiling. It only needs a light wipe with mould spray cleaner to clean it off every few months.
Great work. I agree, even an acrylic eggshell isn't a patch on something like Perma White. Regular cleaning as you say, and you don't have a problem. Try and keep the bathroom window open as long as possible after showers and baths, to get that vapour out of the window rather than circulating around your house.
Charlie, have you tried Kontrol crystals & trap. I was sceptical but bought 3 bags and a trap for under my stairs. No smell and mold has appeared since. I was really impressed and the 3 bags have lasted about 2 years.
Great video in this world of sponsors, I love how you remain unbaised and even if u do get paid your open and honest. I have a question. I have a tiny amount of( 5cm ) on my ceiling. If u were to use zinser, would I have to paid the whole ceiling with the zinser white once the area is spot treated to ensure for a uniform colour wheel th the old ceiling white colour?
Thanks, I appreciate that. The problem with spot priming with the Zinsser BIN is you can get a bit of a raised area. However a bit of very gentle sanding of the edge to feather it in with day 240 grit sand paper, and I reckon it would hardly be noticeable. Zinsser do another great product Ceiling Pro 5 in 1 which removes the need to prime. In answer to your question, you would want to paint the whole ceiling as the sheen of the Perma White will be very different to your existing emulsion. Do consider why you've got the mould though, and where there's anything you can do to stop it returning, and check out my video on this if you haven't already ua-cam.com/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/v-deo.html 👍
Well. You don't seem to have any passive venting in that room. No wonder you got mould. If you have natural and passive circulation going on with a bit of heating, you just don't get mould. You, like many have been duped into spending out of treatments that ought to be unnecessary.
To be fair I do mention the lack of ventilation and in this video ua-cam.com/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/v-deo.htmlsi=so9sW36FjZcMV2FQ explain why ventilation awareness is a vein that runs throughout my videos
we have an heat pump dryer when mould started to appear we had to buy 2 dehumidifiers to get rid of it sort of eliminates any energy saving claims that are made regarding heat pump dryers ? we are going to get rid of the heat pump dryer never been happy with it since we put it in.
Thank you from South Africa…..we have a problem in our bathroom. We have a very small bathroom and have a lot of steam in there obviously when we bath…cant open windows as we have monkeys that are just waiting for a chance to come inside….what do you suggest we use in the bathroom to eliminate the condensation? Its a rented house so not really allowed to put permanent fixtures in….
You need a dehumidifier, Val. Something like a Meaco. You may need to bring it in there on an extension lead after your shower and some of them have drain off tubes at the back which you could trail into the shower tray meaning you don't have to worry about emptying it. It will be a game changer because you can also dry your laundry with it. Just turn it on and further about it and come home to a lovely dry house. Seriously though you do need to do something about that as all that shower vapour will be circulating around the house creating untold damage. Love the fact you have monkeys outside though!! 🐒👍
I use perma white satin on most of my interior woodwork. On flat doors and window boards it rolls out beautifully without the need for tipping off. Dries as flat as oil and a finish as good as spraying. The only negative is the brushes clog up fairly quickly and in temperatures above 20° it dries too fast, turning my brushes into a solid!
Good to hear it Andy, thanks for that. Yes I find that with Zinsser BIN too. It's my go to primer but you can't use it in the heat of the summer because it dries before you can get it off the brush.
@@CharlieDIYte BIN is fabulous stuff and is better rolled with a 4" emulsion roller X 2 coats. You don't get dragging by rolling. When I do have to brush it then I work it in small amounts quickly! Coverstain dries beautiful and flat with an enamel like finish.
Really like this topic, but what has happened here??? is the paint making the warm warmer and stopping vapour from condensing on that wall? Or is the wall still getting wet but drys out without mould forming?
The paint is stopping any vapour from sinking into the wall and turning into mould. In an ideal world I'd have more ventilation and insulate the wall but needs must right now 👍
@@CharlieDIYte thanks for clarifying. I don’t suppose you have any ideas how to get a PIV unit working in a 3 story house that is 100% flat roofed (art deco house) so have no loft. Bottom floor is fine, 2nd floor gets condescension issues, not major but still want to reduce it, top floor is a stairwell to a landing and then entrance to a roof terrace that spans the entire house.
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Do you think I could use this on the back of built in wardrobe's?
Thanks for the update Charlie. We moved into a 1969 bungalow a year last Oct which had big condensation issues. We watched your comprehensive video on mould and dehumidifiers.
Bought the EBAC worked fantastically well. The hygrometer gave us all the relevant readings.
The air bricks had no through flow it had been built with no means of air circulating inside, so
It was damp and cold.
New double glazing was fitted this July after which cavity wall insulation was added.That meant having a PIV fitted.It has transformed the bungalow in so many ways.Will be renew the loft insulation next year. Your time and effort over the years would have transformed many projects and always look forward to your finding. I have also passed the info on to others who have also benefited especially those in social housing who now can show evidence to the landlord. I now have a EBAC that i will pass on to a family member as it is not required.Once again many thanks for your time and effort.
Richard great to hear from you. It's so heartening hearing feedback like this. I had a similar air brick issue in my old London house. The mortgage company made certain damp work a requirement of the loan and a few years later I found the company who installed them hadn't bothered to knock them all the way though to the underfloor cavity. You've done everything right there, right down to installing a PIV. So glad to hear it's sorted out all the problems. Must be very satisfying now, living in your wonderfully dry, warm home. You just want to have the odd trickle vent open on the windows now you've got them double glazed, to help the PIV do it's work. 👍
Iv been a decorator for 27 years iv been treating mould a lot over the past few months and the way you’ve just shown is the correct way. 👍 ventilation is the key, people never got mould back in the day before upvc windows. But still trickle vents could be opened but they never are when I call to treat mould
I used to develop antifouling paint for the marine industry. I reckon you are probably right. For the biocide to work it needs to get into the beasties. Could be that the very top layer of paint has depleted it's biocide. So it's efficiency is dropping a bit. Revisit it next year. Suspect it would be a touch worse. In marine the sea water brings the biocide to the surface. Not sure the biocide deeper down this coating will be able to come to the surface to work? Unless the damp does it (which is plausible). Nothing another coat of paint wouldn't fix I reckon.
I had a black mold problem after a flood, I treated several times with white vinegar sprayed on and painted over with normal emulsion paint, still ok two years on.
Great video Charlie, good idea to return to this a year on. We live in a listed building with a semi basement that suffered from damp and mould.
We’ve had great success with Wickes Mould Protect emulsion paint which I think is similar to those discussed in your video.
Phew. So glad as I literally did your treatment to my wall two weeks ago. Glad it was not a waste of time and money.
Glad to hear it Matt. I'm sorry, that title was a bit click baitey 😬 👍
Im so glad you revisited this as ive been rewatching the original video as ive got mould behind my wardrobe, planning on using zinnser BIN
Thanks Jamie. Good luck with the treatment. Make sure you dry the wall fully and after applying the BIN I think a paint that's impervious to moisture and with biocide in like Perma White is important. 👍
Great video, totally agree with PIV units, I've had mine for 1 year and has made massive difference on condensation forming and subsequent mould growth ( I don't have any regrowth)
Fitted a PIVin our 40 year old bungalow , absolutely transformed our house. Had mould/condensation forming on walls and windows. Virtually eliminated now. Absolutely brilliant system.
I've invested in a piv as I have bad condensation also... just can't find anyone to fit the thing lol
@@Willyfarns It’s pretty easy tbh. Just cut a hole in the ceiling and get a 5amp electricity supply put in the loft space.
@@cerec69 does it make the vent area cold?
@@fanfeck2844 Not at all. I opted for the Nuaire system with the heater option. It just hums a bit like air conditioning. It’s just a revelation in our house.
I really appreciate your videos and help, we have a persistent damp/mould problem from a 1930s house with solid walls upstairs. I’ve gone Zinsser mould killer then BIN where needed after your other vid. The emulsion throughout needed a different approach. Brewers sold me an additive - Owatrol VC175 -so you can keep a paint colour but add a fungicide. Fingers crosses that works … I think it was about £20 that would treat 10L paint.
Clear, well edited and balanced video. Excellent. All the best with the next one.
Thanks Dean, really appreciate that 👍
I used BIN and Permawhite Satin on my bathroom ceiling, great job! No more mould patches!
Glad to hear it Andrew. Good work 👍
I followed your advice and used the zinsser combination of BIN and perma white in my bathroom and it has come out brilliant! Great products. . Cheers!
Really glad to hear it Alex. Great work 👍
A good idea to have a review of something like this as it is useful to see if something worked. A long term review of some of the other projects like the recent gutter and downpipe paint, built-in wardrobes would be good to see too.
Though the Zinsser BIN seems expensive it does seem to cover well and the tin last for a long time. The mould on that wall would appear to be on the surface rather than a wall that had a damp issue. We had a similar issue with our ceiling in one room, thoroughly cleaned it and checked it wasn't caused by anything else apart from condensation at a cold spot. Used the BIN and then just used a normal ceiling emulsion over that. It has not returned so was effective. That one tin of BIN has been used on loads of projects on MDF and some other problem areas so doesn't seem as expensive as I initially thought.
Our house is 30+ years old and the original wooden framed windows were great for ventilation as the quality of them was awful. Replacing them meant the ventilation got worse and mould was more apparent. Apart from ourselves, main source of moisture is the kettle and cooking which is hard to avoid. At this time of year also washing drying indoors. Improving the ventilation would help but the dehumidifier has been a significant factor in fighting moisture. It is a case of spotting problem areas, treating them and then monitoring the area.
Hi Glen, thanks for this. Yes you getting a dehumidifier was a great investment. Having a few hygrometers around the house is also very useful. If the RH goes much advice 60% you know you need to seeing into action in the room in question. I try and leave a few windows on the half latch during the day but that's easy for me living in the countryside and working from home. I appreciate it's problematic for others to do this, although if you have trickle vents on the bare windows I'd say keep them all open 👍
Why not do the same treaent behind that access panel?
Thing is if u remove what ever surface u still have it in the air. It Is a natural element in air. So if damp hasn't been sorted it will grow back. As I said a year ago. Wash with distilled water then paint with bin 123 and paint an anti mould paint. I've been doing iy foe years no call backs
Thanks Lee. Agreed. If you can't insulate the wall (to prevent the dew point being reached) or increase ventilation, this is the best option as at least you're preventing moisture sinking into the wall, and with the biocide, preventing mould taking hold.
Charlie I used to do 100s of mould treat jobs in my last job. What you have done here is perfect and new mould will always form on the surface due to your poor ventilation and damp shoes ect. If it was coming from the wall it would push through damaging the plaster and showing rot on the skirting. Good video thanks
Thanks Peter, coming from a pro like yourself I really appreciate that endorsement. Good point about the damaged plaster and rotting skirting. I should have mentioned that👊
Yup - I have rising damp in an INTERNAL brick wall. I chiselled off the plaster to about a foot high and let the bricks be bare for several months. The wooden skirting board was rotten on the back side. The floors either side of the wall had been concreted, so I was only able to install DryRods at the level of the TOP of the lowest row of bricks. Months later I replastered the wall down to about 6" above the floor, so about 1 1/2 rows of bricks were still bare, above the DryRods line. Left that for some more months, and then covered the new plaster with Zinsser's Shellac-based sealer paint (the wall was to be re-wallpapered), and fitted plastic skirting boards WITH some ventilation areas so that the damp rising into the very lowest row of bricks could still escape -SLOWLY- into the room. Everything was great for some months, but then eventually the SALTS in the wall burst through the shellac paint! The bricks HAD been treated with salts neutraliser on the other side (in an understairs cupboard). Still not rewallpapered yet - looking for the next thing to try (!)
@@hunchanchoc8418 Tough one ? Maybe (if I read well exactly ‘What’ you did ?) The other side of wall application against salts just forced them to cross the wall to the other side ? Water vapour and therefore salts, has to find a way out ...somewhere ? I am only learning it must be said...it’s a subtle learning curve...Damp that is ...(NOT rising damp !)
@@gortagnan You're probably right. It's disheartening. I'm thinking the only likely 'solution' will be taking the plaster off yet again and installing dimple sheet, and plasterboard over. :-/
Another great video Charlie, never heard of PIV! 👍
Thanks Brian 👍
It looks like the system has worked to a level because it seems that the mould has became a dormant state where it’s appeared again but to a state where it cannot grow or do anything basically it’s asleep or dead ish
I think it's basically created an impervious layer which the moisture in the air can't get a hold onto, and the biocide p prevents the mould forming. Air circulation would be ideal but in the absence of this, this is the next best thing.
I find that TSP (trisodium phosphate) is a good treatment for removing surface mould, followed up with the paints you suggested. The real battle is fixing the root cause of the condensation though (as noted in the video).
Exactly. We have a far from ideal situation given the lack of ventilation but I used a dehumidifier to dry out the wall before I treated it, and at least this paint solution has comprehensively prevented any moisture getting back into the wall. I think the result is pretty satisfactory given the circumstances. 👍
@@CharlieDIYte What plaster does it have? How did you dry the wall? Have you not now trapped any moisture which is cold attracting high enviroment moisture levels creating condensation to find your cold non ventalated area?
I painted the wall where I had the mould with an oil-based paint and every spring I just wipe the wall.
I have no more problems with the mould.
Good work 👍
Thanks this helped the house has it everywhere we stripped concrete wall downstairs and repainted it looks good been about a year now but I see what ya mean it needs another coat and I'm going to put heat lamp and ultraviolet bulb to see what happens they say ultraviolet will do something . Zinseer paint is good product I had to save my money but it's worth it
Thank you for this I'm going to check mine now 👍👍
Hope it was ok 🤞
Could it be that dust is on the wall forming a coating which is not in contact with the paint and this is what the mould is growing on? I believe that a large part of household dust is human skin flakes which mould can grow on.
Very possibly. I was disappointed that Zinsser weren't really interested, when I called them for their thoughts. Thanks for that 👍
Had a serious mould problem on a boat, try many products, ended up with white vinegar with bicarb of soda being most successful.
Ah that's good to know. Thanks for sharing 👍
I can second that white vinegar. Living in a old Irish farmhouse I regularly do a "mold patrol" with my spray bottle of white vinegar with added tea tree oil for extra mold killing power.
I think it depends how bad and why. I had a ceiling with mold and even with anti mold paint it would still come back, even after replacing the section with new anti mold paint.
Yes, you definitely need to get to the bottom of the problem, as discussed here ua-cam.com/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/v-deo.html
Let me tell you my story cause I have dealt with this many times.
I have garage boxes and they have no heating or light or whatsoever and are not attached to a house only in a group to each other.
Had a mould problem on the ceiling years ago. I cleaned it wit a brush and high concentrated water/chlorine solution, turning my old jogging suite from black to yellow and since I am bald, no damage to the hair hehehe.
After some days of drying I painted it with a local Dutch brand of concealer and paint from Alabastine.
Since there were some holes above the door for ventilation I also made two in the back wall to generate some draft.
Now I rent them out and 2 years ago, I changed renters and did a check up, all was still great, after 10 or more years, very happy about the product.
Buts as you mentioned, FIRST GET RID OF THE MOULD IN A GOOD WAY, then paint !
thanks for this update video,
You're very welcome. Thanks for the comment 👊
I used the Ronseal product three years ago in my mother's bathroom. The mould has returned in the worst areas and paint crazing is evident in other areas.
Sorry to hear that Martin. Ventilation is key. Can she open a window in there from time to time?
Now this is going to sound strange and the first time I saw it done I nearly fell over. Wait until night or the room is dark and place a small flashlight (Maglite Penlight for example) on the surface of the wall so as to generate "raking light" (flashlight is positioned parallel to the wall surface) - you hold the light at full arm extension so your viewing angle is more or less perpendicular to the surface - if the surface is relatively flat and mold is present you will see mold that you ordinarily do not see in full light - works particular well on varnished surfaces like doors and cabinets and wooden beams. I use this techniques all the time to see the extent of a problem. My trusty Maglite is one of the older models that is not LED - I have never actually tried this with a Led flashlight. Sometimes you need one person to hold the light and wiggle it a bit depending on the surface and another person to stand back to observe. It is common to find mold behind cabinets because the air does not circulate and a micro climate exists.
I should also say that you can also find missing features like former windows outlines and nail holes in drywall and plaster with the same technique. We could probably trace Charlie's exterior crack repair on his home (his repairs were very good)
Thanks Gregory. That's a great tip. I had a couple of those non LED Maglites. Don't know what happened to them. Loved taking the glass cover off and standing the torch on it to use like a candle. 👍
What does it look like a year later. From my experience it does look like there's still mould there in the wall.
The wall's been demolished now but it was mould free. People get very obsessed about how hard it is to eradicate mould but if you do what I did and treat the wall with a biocide paint that prevents it taking hold, you shouldn't have a problem.
Could you not install a couple of vents in the bench at the back to allow better air circulation?
Yes that's a decent suggestion. Problem is, the buckets below the bench are always full so the vents wouldn't have much effect. If I was worried, an air vent in the wall would probably be the best bet.
Just a wee question. Why do you use the BIN as a primer when the other paint you used says self priming? Not picking fault just curious.
Belt and braces and also because it's what Zinsser recommend in that little hands book of theirs - which I recommend you getting as it's free to order. I suspect the "self priming" is a marketing thing - make it all singing and dancing and it will sell even better, but to do the job portals and guarantee top coat adhesion priming is always recommended.
Perfect! Thanks very much for your speedy response
AWESOME! Thanks!
Charlie please can you link to the attachment your tumble drier hose is attached to at the interior wall please 🙏
I think it was this one, bit.ly/3DG6R9k although if you're thinking of installing one, use a small length of soil pipe through the wall rather than that metal pipe as the fluff won't get caught on it nearly as much. 👍
Started following your channel recently as they are very informative thank you for that. I have a question as many homes suffer with damp on the ceiling in our bathroom through the winter. I’m thinking about getting the B.I.N mould killer proof primer but do I have to also get the perma white paint as well or can I use ordinary deluxe white emulsion over the top of it instead. We have a similar issue in the bedroom next to the bathroom but the mould only ever forms along the ceiling above the window.
Charlie, what do you think about the mechanical heat recovery systems instead of PIV?
More expensive to buy and possibly to run, but perhaps more effective?
Yes, definitely the gold standard but not something you can retro fit, given all the ducting 🤔
Great Im moving into my fixer upper soon and this will help with the damp, do you have any recommendation for a house that has been heavily smoked in obviously sugar soap and a wipe down but zinza bin on all walls and ceilings will bankrupt me, does anyone have some advice???
Hi, Great video! Please can you post the link of your backdraft shutter?
It's this one buddy amzn.to/30L0JOs (affiliate link) I just had to pull out the grill because it'll get quickly clogged up with fluff. I'm going to prime and paint the exterior of it the same colour as the wall.
Can I wallpaper over a wall which has been treated with Zinseer products as shown in your video?
Yes, I don't see why not. You're always meant to prime a wall before papering anyway.
My house is 14 years old detached bungalow... At each corner of both north facing walls, I'm getting mould patches ..plenty of insulation no leaks... What is causing it
Bad ventilation most probably. We generate massive amounts of vapour each day and if you don't have adequate extraction or open the windows it's got nowhere to go. Watch my vid bit.ly/3glMu6H as it will change your thinking on this. The areas your mould is forming are cold spots most likely because of gaps in the insulation where it's cold bridging.
I can't afford any of these what should i do
Can I paint over the mould paint with regular emulsion so my entire room is the same colour?
Yes you can. I guess it'll just negate the effect of the biocide in the paint but provided you've treated the original mould and have taken steps to stop it coming back ua-cam.com/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/v-deo.htmlsi=1x4TpDePcC9J7AsM
Was there a link to your discord channel?
Yes it's £5 a month through my Buy me a Coffee channel bit.ly/3xuQ3zb
In my box room small bedroom when I was a kid in 80s, my dad stuck polystyrene on the whole of the wall then wallpapered over it. Is this a suitable option nowadays?
I actually had polystyrene backed wall paper to strip off in this cottage. Quick answer to your question - no, because the insulating effect is very low - although I don't know how thick the polystyrene was your Dad put up. I suppose it might warm up the surface enough to stop mould forming on it but you've got the problem of condensation forming behind it if you're not careful.
Hi Charlie. I ripped off the wallpaper with polystyrene backing and the wall ( window bay) dried out within a day but the plaster needed to be scraped off and its been replastered. Because it is a single wall stone wall (1900 terrace house) this wall is cold and I get a condensation and some paint started flicking off ( only painted it with white emulsion). The radiator is hanged on that wall to heat it up. Also recently started using dehumidifier but with constantly rain and humid air it is only getting a bit better. I will try bin/ zinser when it get warmer and the wall dry. My question is regards to maybe insulating the bay window to as u say stop the dew point but how to do it without cold bridging? Any help much appreciated. Thanks
Hi Charlie, I have a mould issue in our bathroom & I would like to repaint the walls and tiles. For the walls I plan to follow your previous advice and use a mould killer, Zinsser BIN & Perma white. The walls are half tiled and the grout is badly affected by mould. Do I need to purchase Zinsser Bullseye for the tiles or can I use the former treatment for the tiled areas?
I spoke to Zinsser previously about painting tiles and they don't recommend it in a splash zone. You could try some of this stuff ua-cam.com/users/shortsyMydK5oHSj4?feature=share
Hi Charlie, my husband used HG Mould Remover and Dulux damp seal in august and the mould is back! We live in a 1930’s bungalow and along every outside wall there’s mould growing mainly in the corners and majority above the skirting boards. The bungalow has cavity walls with no insulation and they are icy cold! Any advice what we can do would be greatly appreciated. Thank you 😊
Get a dehumidifier, i recommend Probreeze 20 or 30L/day.
Sorry to hear that Tracey. Check out this video and let me know if you've got any questions. ua-cam.com/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/v-deo.html The key is you must get some ventilation into that bungalow so the moisture you're generating can escape. Installing a PIV or just buying a dehumidifier will help enormously.
Hi Charlie just an update. I bought 4 of the Thermpro TP-55 I put one in each bedroom and 1 in each of the kitchen and lounge. 3 rooms were ok but our bedroom was at 58% during the afternoon and evening but during the night it went up to 76% 😳 this room has an open brick vent outside which has a plastic vent over it in the bedroom which can’t close. Do you think this could this be causing the damp issues? Thank you.
Thanks for the video =)
You're welcome. 👊
Hi I've got a mold problem in my shower room on the ceiling Is it best to change my extract fan to a inline fan or should i just antimould spray.
Ps Great video 👍💪
Check out this vid ua-cam.com/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/v-deo.html Have you got a window you can open whilst showering? You should squeegee the shower after each use - dramatically reduces moisture in there. Inline fans are much more powerful but it depends on how long your duct run is and if you've got room for an in-line. They're loft mounted most of the time. Most wall fans are axial and they're only designed for very short runs ie through the brick work.
@@CharlieDIYte hi got no widow in the shower room. Have a very long duct from the ceiling fan to the outside vent. Just checked duct it's all squashed is that a problem cos the foam is on top.
Hi Charlie,
I have a question, you have probably been asked this.
How do you solve this problem with mould. The colour of my room where I am getting mould has been painted a grey and I am getting it within a corner of a room. So there’s a bit on the ceiling and 2 corners of the wall. So if I paint it with mould paints and what I have seen so far are all White so would that mean I would have to change the colour of the whole room or can you apply the 2 applications and paint over it in the Grey colour that is on the wall.
You can get the Perma White I used on the original video tinted to the colour you require. That would be my suggestion.
Great 👍
20 years ago i treated black mold in my house using cheap Aldi bleach. And then painted with cheap paint. And its never come back
Good old Aldi!
Charlie could you use the perm white paint for a bathroom ceiling ?
You certainly could, Michael. It would be fantastic for that and there's also Zinsser Ceiling Pro 5 in 1 to be aware of. You can get Perma White tinted to your own colour too.
@@CharlieDIYte thanks so much for that Charlie, much appreciated. Despite having a fan in my bathroom we still get a bit of mould around the edge of the ceiling so will try this paint. 👍🏼
Charlie
I have the same issues on some external walls
My worry is even with zinnser which is fantastic btw in bathrooms etc is that the wall sweats and damages wood laminate floor below. Any chance you can address how to solve that issue permanently as it’s not everywhere but in certain parts which doesn’t get air movement , I heard ronseal do a product that insulates the wall and raises dew point but never tested it. Thanks in advance and I hope you see my comment.
You have to get better ventilation in this room. Have you watched this video ua-cam.com/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/v-deo.html My suggestion would be in the short term at least, if you can't open the windows because of security etc then get a decent dehumidifier.
Hi Charlie , can you not just put an air brick in that wall .
Yes that would be a good option. 👍
You can't just treat mould like this!!!!!!!!!!!
Ha, very good, mate 😉🤣
You'll never get rid of mould
The key is keeping relative humidity below 60% and keeping ventilation flowing. That way new mould won't form and existing can't proliferate. But that paint did a great job here.
@@CharlieDIYte but after all that it will still come back
UA-cam comments can be the worst...lol
They can but on balance I'd rather have them than be doing this in a vacuum 😉
Excellent video Charlie. You have gone to great lengths to explain what you are doing, the materials you have used (along with chatting to the suppliers), the way you have carried out the work and the honest results. This vid is a classic example. You really can't have done more. I'm a handyman and have found your videos soooo helpful. Please do keep posting.
If mould formed once, it will want to form again, either left over spores or new ones. With regular maintenance though it's easy to keep on top of. I think a problem is a lot of people seem to expect an area to require no cleaning or anything for years at a time which is rather silly. Regular light maintenance will keep areas clean and mould free. Get back into the old fashioned spring clean routine (though spring is bad time as the weather is still damp, I do it in the summer when things dry better).
Or sort the damp problem 1st
@@leeholke9851 That's fine if it's a damp problem and you can fix it. We don't have any damp problems at all, but we do have condensation issues.
@@caskwith condensation is still damp. It was a wide range of answers .
@@leeholke9851 Ok, well if you can stop the condensation great, but that isn't always possible/practicable.
97⁷
I was born in 1947 we lived in a council house with a coal fire. We never had any damp or mould problems. We had an oven in the kitchen linked to the coal fire. My mother often dried clothes on a clothes horse put in front of the oven, and still no damp problems. We didn't have radiators all we had was a back boiler behind the fire to heat the water. Coal fires allowed the house to breathe. Later on, the council fitted a gas boiler and radiators. That's when the problems started, we started getting damp problems, the windows were always damp on the inside. Many years later I had a Housing Association bungalow, due to my health problems. The Housing Association in their great wisdom decided to insulate the loft to the current standard. A damp-proofing firm filled the cavity walls with insulation( pumped in). That was when the bungalow started getting damp problems. Mould started to appear on every wall. It became a constant battle to keep the walls mould-free. The windows were always streaming with water. My wife and I are in our late seventies and in very poor health, I try to keep windows open as much as possible, all the time in summer. We are causing more problems by having our homes over-insulated. The house needs to breathe. Cavity walls were designed to do just that. There is no great mystery as to why people have damp problems. Many people can not afford to heat their homes as due to an incompetent government fuel prices have gone through the roof. People on minimum wages and pensioners on a single basic pension, like myself are struggling to live. In this country, the rich get rich and the poor are forgotten about. The basic pension starts at £130, you don't get far on that. I would like to see if the Prime Minister or our overpaid MPs could survive on what I have to live on. THERE IS NO WAY THEY COULD.
As per my comment yesterday. Thanks 👍
Sounds like a nightmare
@@nyaruko-do2ok The nightmare begins when we start over-insulating our properties and condensation is trapped within the rooms of your home.
over insulating but not ventilating. Insulation is good. No airflow is bad. Stick in vents and fan and ur good to go
In a short while there will be no one left to remember the intense long lasting heat of a coal fire…never any mould in my grandparents house like you say, wishing ironing all sorts going on. Everyone had better get used to being cold in the future, all very well until you get older.
Great video mate and thank you for the mention.
But for anyone else reading this I would strongly suggest heading over to the buy me a coffee section and discord as it really is a fantastic group of people constantly helping each other out and the advice that some of the guys give is worth it's weight in gold!
Cheers Paul 👊
I had a constant war with a small patch of wall adjacent to a chimney breast in a previous home, but finally nailed it by freeing up air space and stripping the wall back and treating it before leaving. Glad you sorted it. I just used Damp Seal, by the way. Difficult to apply, but works well.
Thanks Nigel. Yes, great work, and thanks for the tip. Freeing up the air space was the crucial point. 👍
Thanks for the honest revisit!
Lots of DIY videos out there but it is easy to temporarily fix an issue. How a method fairs in the long term is important info we dont often get.
Also, your caulking videos have me producing much better results. Indistinguishable (or better) than jobs I have paid professionals to do.
Thanks so much Matt. It's a long slog doing these vids but comments like this make them worthwhile 🙏👊
Thank you for this video! I was wondering about that. Love your videos. They are really encouraging me to try making things by myself.
You're very welcome. I'm so chuffed my videos are encouraging you to make stuff 👍👏
Charlie the area of wall you exposed when you removed the access panel looked a bit mouldy to me, a decent sized vent fixed into that panel should help air flow. It would be good to get a scientific point of view on mould removal/eradication, a painters opinion or somebody who had previously worked in the industry, well you know, who knows what to believe.The Mould removal industry is purportedly worth $200 Billion dollars, surely there is somebody with a white coat and suitable qualifications who has scientific evidence of how to kill and prevent mould from reoccurring based on sound evidence? Love your channel...
I would ventilate the access panel behind the tumble dryer. Thanks for the revisit of the problem area
I work for Nuaire, the Drimaster is good for damp.
Thanks for that 👍
I had quite bad black mould in the disabled wet room. After a look through the internet I used a 3% solution of Hydrogen Peroxide in a spray bottle, left for 10 minutes, gave it a scrub wiped down,. when dry I painted it with the Powerfix anti mould and mildew paint from Lidl, it's latex based so water resistant too. The mould hasn't come back after 2 years. Why did I use that method? Because it's inexpensive compared to those specialist paints by big names and most important, it works.
Great work. Glad to hear it's sorted the problem. 👍
After watching your original video I used the Zinsser on my office/gym walls, converting it from a disused bedroom that had very bad mould/condensation. After using the mould killer, the walls were left for a month with lots of summer air flowing through the room. I then used the water based Zinsser BIN and the Permawhite. I have to say I am very impressed with the Permawhite, just one coat was enough for me, my only complaint is the smell, it really does wiff! I've also fitted a humidistat extractor fan as there will be a lot of huffing and puffing due to exercise. So it will be interesting to see if any mould forms, but thanks for the information Charlie, your videos are extremely helpful.
Sounds like you did everything spot on there, Mark. I like the fact you used the summer weather to thoroughly dry out the wall before sealing it. BIN is shellac based - presumably that's what you meant? Yes the Perma White is fantastic. It's not surprising it's a bit wiffy given its solvent properties and the biocide, but an acceptable trade off IMO given its benefits. Great work 👍
Hi Charley , I have used the insulated plasterboard and I think it would be perfect for your location . You could put it straight onto the wall ,making a thermal break which would prevent a cold surface to course a problem Best wishes and kind regards 😀👍👍👍
My thoughts too.
Yes absolutely and in fact I've done 3 bedrooms upstairs with this. With the wall now warm, the dew point can't be reached and so mould doesn't form. With insulated plasterboard you just have to be careful about potential cold bridging in corners, plug sockets and around the windows. I'm still learning the perfect technique, but got it pretty good in our bedroom where I battened the wall, infilled with 1 inch celotex PIR board, foil taped over the battens and then screwed insulated plasterboard on top. That way there was no cold bridging where you have to cut through the plasterboard for electrical sockets.
I picked up some Mould Wash Concentrate and Anti Mould Paint Additive direct from Permaguard. Cost about £28 inc delivery for both. The great thing about the paint addictive is that you can add it to which ever paint colour you wish and are not restricted to the availability of which ever brand is in the local store. The mould wash works a treat for any surface. I applied both in April and have not even seen an attempted regrowth!
That's great work. Didn't realise you could do that 👌👏
Excellent news behind the bench! I used your solution and products (as per previous bench video) on a couple of areas that have caused annual hassle and now, so far, not a spot of anything! I will update again in about April next year to see how these areas have fared over the winter months. Thanks again - brilliant thinking, balanced advice, demos and results!
Peter, so glad to hear it's working well on yours. Thanks for the comment 👍
Just wondering if the wall is solid or has a cavity , If its solid I would imagine it will need some sort of insulation to stop condensation forming on it ... Im no expert but it seems a logical step to take ...........
It's solid. Yes absolutely. If it was insulated mould wouldn't be a problem because the wall would be too warm for the dew point to be reached.
Good video with great result. Personally I'd vent the wall as its an outside wall. However each to there own. If something else works then brilliant 👍👍.
That's a very good idea. The long term plan is to do something different with this room otherwise I'd almost certainly do that 👍
The PIV system I’ve fitted has completely eradicated mould upstairs in our cottage
That's great to hear. It's extraordinary how effective they are, isn't it!
@@CharlieDIYte yes, we’re very impressed with it!
Hi Charlie - another great video thanks for posting. I missed the earlier one but have a patch of mold to treat at my house and my daughters so will be copying your approach. I think you should give Toolstation a heads-up before you post similar videos in future though as they appear to have sold out of Perma White! I got the last one in Ormskirk and nationally they have sold 18 in 24 hours - no coincedence I think !
Thanks Julian. Yes, and it would make what I'm doing so much more sustainable if I could occasionally benefit more from sales generated from my vids but there's very little inclination from the retailers on this. Particularly the larger ones at any rate. Another great product is the Zinsser Ceiling 5 in 1. Primes, seals and has the biocide - all in 1. From memory though I don't think it can be tinted, which the Perma White can. 👍
In my experience dehumidifier is go to option. It was a dear one, couple of hundred but never thought of mould again. I live in a flat, though. So not many external walls and one is enough just have to wheel it around from room to room.
Yes, in that video I mentioned, the main thrust of the video was about dehumidifiers. Great to vastly reduce relative humidity around the home but they won't stop condensation forming on windows and the like. Crucial though, particularly in an apartment like yours when perhaps you're producing a lot of moisture from hanging up washing, cooking and bathing, without there being anywhere for it to escape.
A very interesting topic and I think you have dealt with it very well. A good anti mould treatment and anti mould paint seems to do the trick.
Thanks Tahir. Yes not ideal in terms of the lack of air circulation but by providing an impermeable surface protected with biocide, there's nothing for the mould to latch onto. 👍
What is best for bathroom ceiling mold, painted?
I would probably use Zinsser Ceiling Pro 5 in 1 as it primes, covers cracks and strains and seals and also contains a biocide. It's only available in white though I think so if you want it tinted then Perma White is good although if there are stains you'll need to prime that with Zinsser BIN first. www.zinsseruk.com/product/ceiling-pro-5-in-1/
I always look forward to your videos, they're well produced and informative.
Thanks so much Ian, for that and generally for your support of the channel. Couldn't do it without you guys 👊🙏
Same thing happened to me with this paint dark mould staining within the paint not on the surface? When you try to clean the stain remains
I have one of these PIV in the loft my condensation is whose than ever we have even had the spray foam done are bathroom is the problem we didn’t have that much condensation but since we have had new bathroom fitted it is a lot worse.
Can I put one of these humidifier in my bathroom if so which one is the best thank you
On the Zinsser product placement: a few carpenters and decorators I know recommend Zinsser products for pretty much every specialist situation every time. There are undoubtedly alternatives, but they're all going to be more expensive than regular paint anyway - so why bother potentially saving a few quid to gamble on whether they will work, when you know Zinsser will?
I'd add that my natural inclination is to aways go for a "good enough" cheaper option where possible.
Yes people occasionally say my videos are stuffed with product placement but they have to be as you need all the tools or paint to do the job. My responsibility is to only place stuff I believe passionately in as being one of the best options for the job. I too know a lot of decorators who swear by Zinsser so that's one of the reasons I recommend the stuff so much. Its performance speaks for itself though 👍
Same problem Charlie. Used 70% vinegar to kill the mould. Sprayed it, let it dry. Repeated it a few times. Then used Zinnzar paint. Let it dry. Left it dry. & few months later painted the wall with emulsion paint. Looks great after 7 months. No mould issues
Great work 👍
Great video Charlie
I remember your first video removing the mould.if treated right mate it shouldn’t come back Just as long as you’ve got good ventilation simples 👍👍👍👍
Agreed Carl. Thanks for the comment and for watching my vids. 👊
I'd never use acrylic paint in a bathroom again. Solvent based paints are much much more mould resistant. I repainted the roof of our ensuite with a semi-gloss enamel but left the walls as-is. Any mould buildup now has a distinct variation between wall and ceiling. It only needs a light wipe with mould spray cleaner to clean it off every few months.
Great work. I agree, even an acrylic eggshell isn't a patch on something like Perma White. Regular cleaning as you say, and you don't have a problem. Try and keep the bathroom window open as long as possible after showers and baths, to get that vapour out of the window rather than circulating around your house.
Charlie, have you tried Kontrol crystals & trap. I was sceptical but bought 3 bags and a trap for under my stairs. No smell and mold has appeared since. I was really impressed and the 3 bags have lasted about 2 years.
Hi. That's interesting. No I haven't tried those. I'll check them out - thanks. The reviews seem pretty good?
Great video in this world of sponsors, I love how you remain unbaised and even if u do get paid your open and honest. I have a question. I have a tiny amount of( 5cm ) on my ceiling. If u were to use zinser, would I have to paid the whole ceiling with the zinser white once the area is spot treated to ensure for a uniform colour wheel th the old ceiling white colour?
Thanks, I appreciate that. The problem with spot priming with the Zinsser BIN is you can get a bit of a raised area. However a bit of very gentle sanding of the edge to feather it in with day 240 grit sand paper, and I reckon it would hardly be noticeable. Zinsser do another great product Ceiling Pro 5 in 1 which removes the need to prime. In answer to your question, you would want to paint the whole ceiling as the sheen of the Perma White will be very different to your existing emulsion. Do consider why you've got the mould though, and where there's anything you can do to stop it returning, and check out my video on this if you haven't already ua-cam.com/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/v-deo.html 👍
The LUJA 7 paint seems only for kitchens and bathrooms. Would it look silly in a bedroom?
Not sure. Haven't used it.
Well. You don't seem to have any passive venting in that room. No wonder you got mould. If you have natural and passive circulation going on with a bit of heating, you just don't get mould. You, like many have been duped into spending out of treatments that ought to be unnecessary.
To be fair I do mention the lack of ventilation and in this video ua-cam.com/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/v-deo.htmlsi=so9sW36FjZcMV2FQ explain why ventilation awareness is a vein that runs throughout my videos
we have an heat pump dryer when mould started to appear we had to buy 2 dehumidifiers to get rid of it sort of eliminates any energy saving claims that are made regarding heat pump dryers ? we are going to get rid of the heat pump dryer never been happy with it since we put it in.
That's interesting, I've often thought of buying one but I prefer to expel all the moisture straight outside.
A nice good follow-up review , Great video Thanks Charlie
Thanks for the comment Malcolm. You're very welcome 👍
for me Charlie you cannot argue with the zinsser bin and the result speak them self happy days.
I agree. My go to primer! Good to hear from you 👊
Ronseal Anti Condensation Paint seems to have solved my mould issue.
Ah, good to hear that Graham, thanks for letting me know. 👍
Super-thorough. Super-helpful. Thank you so much!
You're very welcome Fran. Thanks for the comment. 🙏
Thank you from South Africa…..we have a problem in our bathroom. We have a very small bathroom and have a lot of steam in there obviously when we bath…cant open windows as we have monkeys that are just waiting for a chance to come inside….what do you suggest we use in the bathroom to eliminate the condensation? Its a rented house so not really allowed to put permanent fixtures in….
You need a dehumidifier, Val. Something like a Meaco. You may need to bring it in there on an extension lead after your shower and some of them have drain off tubes at the back which you could trail into the shower tray meaning you don't have to worry about emptying it. It will be a game changer because you can also dry your laundry with it. Just turn it on and further about it and come home to a lovely dry house. Seriously though you do need to do something about that as all that shower vapour will be circulating around the house creating untold damage. Love the fact you have monkeys outside though!! 🐒👍
@@CharlieDIYte thank you so much. Will look at our local hardware store when we next go in
I use perma white satin on most of my interior woodwork. On flat doors and window boards it rolls out beautifully without the need for tipping off. Dries as flat as oil and a finish as good as spraying. The only negative is the brushes clog up fairly quickly and in temperatures above 20° it dries too fast, turning my brushes into a solid!
Good to hear it Andy, thanks for that. Yes I find that with Zinsser BIN too. It's my go to primer but you can't use it in the heat of the summer because it dries before you can get it off the brush.
@@CharlieDIYte BIN is fabulous stuff and is better rolled with a 4" emulsion roller X 2 coats. You don't get dragging by rolling. When I do have to brush it then I work it in small amounts quickly! Coverstain dries beautiful and flat with an enamel like finish.
Really like this topic, but what has happened here??? is the paint making the warm warmer and stopping vapour from condensing on that wall? Or is the wall still getting wet but drys out without mould forming?
The paint is stopping any vapour from sinking into the wall and turning into mould. In an ideal world I'd have more ventilation and insulate the wall but needs must right now 👍
@@CharlieDIYte thanks for clarifying. I don’t suppose you have any ideas how to get a PIV unit working in a 3 story house that is 100% flat roofed (art deco house) so have no loft. Bottom floor is fine, 2nd floor gets condescension issues, not major but still want to reduce it, top floor is a stairwell to a landing and then entrance to a roof terrace that spans the entire house.
Is it possible to install a low-level air brick Charlie?
Yes that would be a great idea 👍