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I really appreciate it when you go through mistakes. It's so helpful. As I am learning myself, all of DIY is making mistakes and getting over them. Another great video!
Great job, thanks for sharing. Along with your other subscribers, I appreciate the honesty in admitting your mistakes. Too much content on UA-cam gives people the false impression that everything just goes flawlessly first time around. In my opinion, this implied perfection would be rather off-putting for the novice DIYer. Glad you mentioned the funky looking Ryobi track: It was the first thing I wondered about. Evolution actually makes a standard circular saw that runs on Evolution - and, presumably, Makita or Festool tracks.👍
one issue I had when laying this type of floor in a bedroom I had to fit the next piece of floor before screwing down the previous sheet as the sheets wouldn't fit together. Did you start from a centre line and work to the outside or doesn't it matter
Great Job Charlie !! The man who never made a mistake ,never made anything !! Wishing your family and yourself all the best for the future.........Fantastic video, thank you !!
The honesty in your videos is so refreshing and enables others to learn as these are common mistakes we could all easily make Charlie. So much detailed information as well thank you. If I ever earn enough money to purchase my council house I'll be doing something similar. Great work as always mate.
Adding an expansion joint makes perfect sense, but does anyone know how this is meant to work when there are numerous screws holding down the rest of the floor? It seems the gap would only be able to accommodate expansion from the outermost sheet, leaving the rest without any expansion potential.
@@MrWarfd001 btw wasn’t a criticism of the way Charlie did this. You see this method applied in lots of situations. Totally understand that a fully floating floor wouldn’t be appropriate. Maybe you can ignore expansion here because both materials are wood and would expand similarly.
Great stuff as always , I’ve just recently had a concrete garage installed as a workshop/ store it’s 6mx5m . Our original two car garage was turned into a granny annex some 20 years ago . When we decided to get rid of three rotting shed’s we have , I did look into having a proper brick construction put in . Well the cost was absolutely staggering , at least three times the price of the concrete structure . Even the base would have to be done to a higher standard to meet building regs , which a concrete structure does not require not even planning was required . All this leads me to realise if you’re lucky to find a property with an existing building, just how valuable it is and often it doesn’t really reflect in the purchase price of the house . I know you have done lots to your garage , but I wonder if you’ve ever looked what it would cost to replicate it , it might be quite an eye opener . As a point of interest when we converted our garage into a granny flat , it cost £ 20, thousand all in . Just before I retired as an electrical contractor , I worked on a similar project to ours ie existing garage made into a granny annex . The project came in at just under £80 thousand and is actually smaller than ours . Now knowing you I recon when the time comes you will save some serious money Best wishes and kind regards as always . 😀👍👍👍
It's so easy to create a UA-cam channel showing off how brilliant and perfectly everything goes so it's hugely refreshing to watch Charlie's open and honest assessments packed full of learnings which will help us all avoid the same mistakes ... spot on, thank you!
22mm mdf floorboards like you used are slowly becoming industry standard on additions, especially commonly used (by me) on loft conversions, using expanding glue to the joist to reduce squeaking
much appreciated... your point about why the boards need to be laid good side up was well made, and something that i might otherwise have overlooked. thank you.
@Charlie DIYte why don't you put hinges on the loft hatch, we have hinges on our hatch in the house, it's so much easier than having to lift it out every time
Another fab video. I can watch your videos all day long. Plain, straight forward explanations. The lighting you used is really good and looks great in the framing. Keep up the good work. 😊👍
Mistakes are how most Diyers learn & thanks to people like you we stand a good chance of not making too many. I have a raised loft floor & increased insulation project coming up so I was interested in seeing this one for any tips. My raised loft floor is only for occasional access & storage so I won't be gluing any boards down in case I need to get them up again in the future to access the 1st floor wiring etc. However, the takeaway from this video for me is that the floor board layout is going to be important. I will be working with a mixture of existing & new T&G chipboard so I need to minimise waste & awkward edge fillers. Keep up the good work.. 👍
Just a reminder that the ceiling ties are always in tension and so some way should be found to stop the roof from spreading when you cut one for your hatch. Screws into the end grain is not normally sufficient. Angle brackets each side of the cut joist, bolted through the trimmer should do. Regards Tom (Structural Engineer)
Thanks Tom. I'll also angle bracket the joists down to the wall plate. Pretty sure it's nailed down but won't harm to put extra brackets in. Appreciate the comment 👊
@@CharlieDIYte Sounds good but remember that it is the roof trusses which restrain the top of the garage wall so it is backward to secure the trusses to the wall head expecting the wall to prevent the trusses spreading.
I think the rafters would have been just fine for your hoist - 100Kg is under 16st, or one big bloke. Would be amazed if two rafters (or four if you're bracing across) couldn't handle that.
At last a real life loft boarding video! I have a much smaller space to re board next month but I can use 18mm boards as the centres are 450mm wide. Spax screws seem to be the way to go and adhesive for the tongue and groove. Great video, very useful.
Next time on Chalie DIYte: "The gantry I built in a previous video wasn't up to the task of moving things into the loft, so I opted to build a trebuchet instead and launch in what I needed."
I would rather watch you Charlie,Who is honest enough to show your mistakes and what you would do different for another time,Than someone who post's some slick video thinking he is the bees knees.Keep up the great output always very informative
Lovel your honesty Charlie . I must admit I would always make those Mistakes ..🙄 .. Great Tips & advice .. Esp on leaving a 10mm gap . Could u use 18mm OSB board But NOT ....t&g ..(incase I have to get access ) 🤔pipes cables etc ...
I put the boards the wrong way up too! Im glad im not alone there, i did stagger them but they arent glued. So i can get to services underneath. Im hoping its strong enough. Its just for storage so hopefully its ok
For the hatch, you could get a couple of handles which you attach via bolts going into threaded inserts. When you're done, you remove the handles and the inserts remain. If you recess the inserts and use shallow headed bolts, you could even leave the bolts in there. You could also just use some webbing screwed into the sides of the hatch which you are able to pull the hatch out with.
I think it would be helpful if it was explained you can't do this in house lofts now as squashing all that insulation up there makes the ceiling joists prone to damp. It is fine for an outbuilding like you have but most people will be using loft legs, Loftzone etc. Otherwise very good as always.
How is the treadmill on that surface? Does it make a massive noise? Also, how on earth will you cope with the extreme heat? It doesn't look overly insulated in there?
Hi Charlie, great honest video. You make a good point about which way up to lay the flooring, not least because some manufacturers put the print on the reverse side so you do have to read carefully and not lay on autopilot (don’t ask)! The floor also goes together easier when you lay it the right side up as it’s been engineered to be done that way. Great idea about leaving the hatch, to0 marks to your chippy 😀
I guess the issue with plywood and OSB is you have no T&G all the way round so will need noggins - but then it's good practice to strengthen on the join if it ends between joists anyway so my 22mm is no great benefit here. If your ply or osb is only 18mm or less you will need a sub base to strengthen it.
I got some flush handles for a fraction of the cost from Hiatt hardware. They are the same quality and probably the same supplier as Screwfix/Toolstation.
I can't find your video for the drainpipes Charlie? I've looked at what youtube says is all your videos (there are a lot of them!) but none about drain pipes :(
D'you mean this one ua-cam.com/video/rG5bTCPozVA/v-deo.htmlsi=DZtuqLNjGmNl7QAy Got hundreds of clips for a new one that will be seeing some time next year.
Its only a personal point BUT i really dont see the sense in applying glue/adhesive in thin lines ,more so on wider work. it must only be covering 10% of the area max. would rather use a good glue that can be spread over most of area.
I know it would have cost twice as much but as the boards weren't staggered and laid the wrong way up, could you have put a second layer on top of that first layer and staggered that and laid the correct side up?
Charlie, do you ever have the nagging feeling of wanting to rip it all up and start over when you realise you've made mistakes? I get that feeling sometimes even when in the real world these things are done way worse, and it has hardly ever catastrophically failed the entire build... but my brain goes 'tiniest mistake and the whole thing fails' anyway.
I was reading a loft boarding website recently called the loft boys itd in Hoddesdon who recommended only storing a maximum of 25kg per square metre. I could be wrong though.
Hey Charlie, how do you handle these miskates emotional and mentally when you make or discover them? Do you get angry and curse, or wallow in self pity, or become moody and short with your family, or shrug it off and chuckle knowing it isn't worth getting upset about?
Fantastic, thanks for showing the mistakes too that's so humble of you, much respect for that, and a very enjoyable video, looking forwards to more, all the best to you.
I'm here happy I got a fully custom floating shelf rock solid in dot and dab and then I see you making crane solutions that would support Henry the 8th. Nah I've got a bit to go yet 😂
We're in the middle of putting down 22 caber on a property renovation and it is good stuff. It is dense and really tonight! Man that glue is sticky, trying to stay off the squeeze out is so difficult 😂
You will not be the first to put floor up the wrong way and won’t be the last. It the end of the day it is a garage. Not the end of the world. If you do convert he biggest issue will be fire break, class 00 board etc. When I did mine at my last place I cut around roof rafters and push up to the edges leaving no gap to be filled. Did take a while though cutting each one individually. Hey if the good lady and lad are happy, job well done
For me to do this, it would be: 1st - Lose weight, so I can fit through the mouse sized hole that is the attic access! They must have built this house with very, very, very, small people in mind. Please show me a video on how to enlarge the attic access hole and then maybe i can do what you have just done 😁
Got a similar space to do in my own garage loft, suffice to say I would have made the same mistakes! Great video with lots of learning points, thanks!! 👍🇬🇧
Re the loft hatch I’d be tempted to screw some magnetic material to the areas where you need to pull on and get a strong magnet to give you something to pull on. Think of the magnets that people go magnet fishing with. As you have the hoist means you could use that to pull the hatch up.
Nice video Charlie! I've done this myself in OSB because it was almost the same price as the chipboard. Did you find a big price difference between the chipboard and OSB?
This may have been mentioned in another comment but how do you do this if there are pipes above the beams? Would you have to make a false floor essentiallt to raise the new floor above to create gaps between pipes and the new floor?
Nice work. I'm just finishing laying a structural plywood floor as part of a bungalow loft conversion. I've got to sister up rafters onto the ridge RSJ. Insulation is going to be with a product called Actis which I have managed to haggle down to less than Pir board. For a habitable space for part L of UK building regs its great as it expands slightly to fill in between the rafters. I am looking forwards to seeing your StairBox video as I intend to order one. Great content.
As usual, an excellent video, Charlie - so clear and practical. Were I ever to create a YT channel, or even an Insta account, it would be called (with a tip of the knitted beanie to Ernie Wise) something like “Mistakes Wot I have Made”. Akin the film “The Plank” but with far less comedic merit. Looking forward to the Episode In Which Charlie Insulates The Garage Loft. Cheers!
Using screws on joists is silly, They are strong but sheer off easy (snap) that's why you use nails like 90mm from a framing nailer, I'd stick around 6-8 per joists.
Crikey Charlie, so much in here. I was initially moved to comment unfavourably on the mistakes. However, when I reflected on my own sorry progress in so many projects I thought no, the guy's being honest, let him alone. Seriously though, you've covered so much in this post, it's hard to take it all in. Over the years I've whittled down my subs to diy/woodworking chanels as I got overloaded with advice. Charlie DIYte is still there. One of the few.
Have you got the brushless HP saw? If so, it's probably worth getting but you won't be able to rip down a full sheet with it. It's ok but a bit more flimsy than the aluminium tracks. Plus you have to guess the entry point of the blade as it's a few mm from the edge of the track.
Hey mate, this is not criticism but IMO you should not be using chipboard in an unheated space no matter what the manufacturer claims. Actually I don't think they would disagree with me here but your garage is way more prone to damp, and atmospheric conditions that your house. So what means is that you want something with structural support even if your beams are 6". OSB is substantially more cost effective than the chipboard that you went for and is stronger and easier to work with (it's lighter because you can use 18mm). If you really want sheer strength, and you might if you are putting a treadmill there, then go for structural ply or you can even get cement board. In fact if you went for cement board, you wouldn't need to care about spacing but the cost of fixing is a bit higher. As to hidden screws and MDF or really any sheet material with tg4, you absolutely do not screw into the tongue part. The first screw goes about 1" away from the edge. If you screw into the tongue you are compromising the structural integrity of the material.
Thanks for this. I hear what you say but it's moisture resistant chipboard but most importantly it's a dry well ventilated space so no problems with damp. Good point about the hidden screws 👊
Aren't OSB boards supposed to be better than that type, which is supposed to get damp etc? Thanks for the content, it's really useful for me going into my first owned house and needing to do lots of the work myself. I'm here because of research on this very subject.
You should only use boards which are designed for flooring. I've not seen OSB or MDF certified for flooring. If damp is a concern then you get get waterproof chipboard flooring. I think the only point in gluing to joists is to prevent squeaking.
I’m adding some loft flooring right into the roof corners - will only have boxes stored on them (no one is short enough to stand in these areas!). Anyway thought I’d watch this just to see if I could get any hints or tips. Definitely some food for thought. One idea…your loft hatch. What about a system similar to drain inspection? Sausage shaped holes that T bars fit into? Insert and twist to lock the T bar and lift to lift the hatch?
Hi Charlie, Will there be a video on all the steps you took to convert your loft? I’m looking to draw up plans of converting my loft so a video would be incredibly helpful
Have you seen this update ua-cam.com/video/q9r4KZSxiRs/v-deo.html I'll try and do an update in the summer but it won't be complete because this is just a garage loft for now.
Hi Charlie, nice job👍👍 , I did my roof flooring a few years back laid on 3" by 2" lengths of wood as my loft joist are all over the place Hight and distance wise , added leg supports and screwed never bothered with clueing , no need after all the screw are fixed in , not had a issue with separation or splitting
Once again a timely vid. Had a loft hatch installed by a plumber who needed additional access, and he cut two joists with no reinforcement! So I am looking to add some strength- good to see how you've done it. I have used 22mm caber before and agree it's good stuff.
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I know it's been said many times before, but it's the candour and the shared learning through the errors made along the way, that make these videos.
Agreed, honestly at its finest.
Yeah nobody wants edited perfect projects as everyone knows nothing goes to plan every time 😂
Well said
Yeah , i like Charlies honesty sharing his errors superb tutorial my Fave DIY channel
Agreed...plus DIY-dog when she appears.
I really appreciate it when you go through mistakes. It's so helpful. As I am learning myself, all of DIY is making mistakes and getting over them. Another great video!
Great job, thanks for sharing. Along with your other subscribers, I appreciate the honesty in admitting your mistakes. Too much content on UA-cam gives people the false impression that everything just goes flawlessly first time around. In my opinion, this implied perfection would be rather off-putting for the novice DIYer.
Glad you mentioned the funky looking Ryobi track: It was the first thing I wondered about. Evolution actually makes a standard circular saw that runs on Evolution - and, presumably, Makita or Festool tracks.👍
Great video Charlie as always, very interesting and informative
one issue I had when laying this type of floor in a bedroom I had to fit the next piece of floor before screwing down the previous sheet as the sheets wouldn't fit together. Did you start from a centre line and work to the outside or doesn't it matter
Yes I release the screws a bit when slotting in the next piece then tighten them once it's down.
Great Job Charlie !! The man who never made a mistake ,never made anything !! Wishing your family and yourself all the best for the future.........Fantastic video, thank you !!
The honesty in your videos is so refreshing and enables others to learn as these are common mistakes we could all easily make Charlie. So much detailed information as well thank you. If I ever earn enough money to purchase my council house I'll be doing something similar. Great work as always mate.
Thanks mate, really appreciate 👊that
Pointing out the mistakes is brilliant, because mistakes are always the stuff you learn the most from.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks, I really appreciate that. 👊
Adding an expansion joint makes perfect sense, but does anyone know how this is meant to work when there are numerous screws holding down the rest of the floor? It seems the gap would only be able to accommodate expansion from the outermost sheet, leaving the rest without any expansion potential.
Indeed, it is confusing. Imagine if he had glued as well. Even more redundant
@@MrWarfd001 btw wasn’t a criticism of the way Charlie did this. You see this method applied in lots of situations. Totally understand that a fully floating floor wouldn’t be appropriate. Maybe you can ignore expansion here because both materials are wood and would expand similarly.
Charlie, please do a video on the loft insulating !!! I'm thinking of doing mine so would appreciate your insight 😉
Plenty of errors made when doing this. At least you admitted them and pointed them out so others don't.
Great stuff as always , I’ve just recently had a concrete garage installed as a workshop/ store it’s 6mx5m . Our original two car garage was turned into a granny annex some 20 years ago . When we decided to get rid of three rotting shed’s we have , I did look into having a proper brick construction put in . Well the cost was absolutely staggering , at least three times the price of the concrete structure . Even the base would have to be done to a higher standard to meet building regs , which a concrete structure does not require not even planning was required . All this leads me to realise if you’re lucky to find a property with an existing building, just how valuable it is and often it doesn’t really reflect in the purchase price of the house . I know you have done lots to your garage , but I wonder if you’ve ever looked what it would cost to replicate it , it might be quite an eye opener . As a point of interest when we converted our garage into a granny flat , it cost £ 20, thousand all in . Just before I retired as an electrical contractor , I worked on a similar project to ours ie existing garage made into a granny annex . The project came in at just under £80 thousand and is actually smaller than ours . Now knowing you I recon when the time comes you will save some serious money Best wishes and kind regards as always . 😀👍👍👍
It's so easy to create a UA-cam channel showing off how brilliant and perfectly everything goes so it's hugely refreshing to watch Charlie's open and honest assessments packed full of learnings which will help us all avoid the same mistakes ... spot on, thank you!
22mm mdf floorboards like you used are slowly becoming industry standard on additions, especially commonly used (by me) on loft conversions, using expanding glue to the joist to reduce squeaking
much appreciated... your point about why the boards need to be laid good side up was well made, and something that i might otherwise have overlooked. thank you.
@Charlie DIYte why don't you put hinges on the loft hatch, we have hinges on our hatch in the house, it's so much easier than having to lift it out every time
Another fab video. I can watch your videos all day long. Plain, straight forward explanations. The lighting you used is really good and looks great in the framing. Keep up the good work. 😊👍
Mistakes are how most Diyers learn & thanks to people like you we stand a good chance of not making too many.
I have a raised loft floor & increased insulation project coming up so I was interested in seeing this one for any tips. My raised loft floor is only for occasional access & storage so I won't be gluing any boards down in case I need to get them up again in the future to access the 1st floor wiring etc. However, the takeaway from this video for me is that the floor board layout is going to be important. I will be working with a mixture of existing & new T&G chipboard so I need to minimise waste & awkward edge fillers.
Keep up the good work..
👍
Just a reminder that the ceiling ties are always in tension and so some way should be found to stop the roof from spreading when you cut one for your hatch. Screws into the end grain is not normally sufficient. Angle brackets each side of the cut joist, bolted through the trimmer should do.
Regards
Tom (Structural Engineer)
Thanks Tom. I'll also angle bracket the joists down to the wall plate. Pretty sure it's nailed down but won't harm to put extra brackets in. Appreciate the comment 👊
@@CharlieDIYte Sounds good but remember that it is the roof trusses which restrain the top of the garage wall so it is backward to secure the trusses to the wall head expecting the wall to prevent the trusses spreading.
New Sub here. Really liked the way you showed your mistakes, so others wouldn't make them. That's humble - and much respected !
Cred for both mentioning you got discout and for mistakes you've made. Transparancy, I like :)
I think the rafters would have been just fine for your hoist - 100Kg is under 16st, or one big bloke. Would be amazed if two rafters (or four if you're bracing across) couldn't handle that.
Really helpful to be able to learn from others' mistakes! Thanks for the video
Was really looking for this from our Charlie!
What's the advantage of chipboard? Over here everyone uses osb.
At last a real life loft boarding video! I have a much smaller space to re board next month but I can use 18mm boards as the centres are 450mm wide. Spax screws seem to be the way to go and adhesive for the tongue and groove. Great video, very useful.
Thanks mate, I appreciate that and good luck with the boarding. 👊
Next time on Chalie DIYte:
"The gantry I built in a previous video wasn't up to the task of moving things into the loft, so I opted to build a trebuchet instead and launch in what I needed."
Love it 🤣
🤣🤣🤣
This is my job for Summer '24. Good tips. Wish me luck!
I would rather watch you Charlie,Who is honest enough to show your mistakes and what you would do different for another time,Than someone who post's some slick video thinking he is the bees knees.Keep up the great output always very informative
Lovel your honesty Charlie .
I must admit I would always make those Mistakes ..🙄 ..
Great Tips & advice ..
Esp on leaving a 10mm gap .
Could u use 18mm OSB board But NOT ....t&g ..(incase I have to get access ) 🤔pipes cables etc ...
Why are the light panels £35 for you and £350 (for 3) when I try to buy them?? That’s one hell of a markup……??
I put the boards the wrong way up too! Im glad im not alone there, i did stagger them but they arent glued. So i can get to services underneath. Im hoping its strong enough. Its just for storage so hopefully its ok
A very inspiring place to set up a treadmill, facing a block wall! 🤣
It's got a TV in there now, and I might put some Velux in when the finances recover.
For the hatch, you could get a couple of handles which you attach via bolts going into threaded inserts. When you're done, you remove the handles and the inserts remain.
If you recess the inserts and use shallow headed bolts, you could even leave the bolts in there.
You could also just use some webbing screwed into the sides of the hatch which you are able to pull the hatch out with.
Been getting into DIY over the last few months, just wanted to say thanks for all the videos
Thanks so much John. I didn't even realise I could get super thanks' but I really appreciate it and am chuffed you're finding my vids useful.
I think it would be helpful if it was explained you can't do this in house lofts now as squashing all that insulation up there makes the ceiling joists prone to damp. It is fine for an outbuilding like you have but most people will be using loft legs, Loftzone etc. Otherwise very good as always.
But house lofts can simply be insulated with PIR between the rafters. No need for insulation under the lofts floorboards .
Great channel Charlie. Soon be 500k subs 👍
Well....this is a good info video but man....that's one catalogue of errors there ;-)
How is the treadmill on that surface? Does it make a massive noise?
Also, how on earth will you cope with the extreme heat? It doesn't look overly insulated in there?
Great video, Charlie. I’m not as ambitious as you with the diy but I love your videos and find them very relaxing and interesting ☺️
Hi Charlie, great honest video. You make a good point about which way up to lay the flooring, not least because some manufacturers put the print on the reverse side so you do have to read carefully and not lay on autopilot (don’t ask)! The floor also goes together easier when you lay it the right side up as it’s been engineered to be done that way. Great idea about leaving the hatch, to0 marks to your chippy 😀
Thanks mate. Yes that's another good point about why they do it that way up. 👍
Helpful video, thanks dude 👍🏻🙏🙏👍🏻
I love watching this channel, I used to help my dad with DIY and watching this reminds me of him and the good times we had together 😢
Thanks so much for this. Chuffed my vids remind you of those good times. Precious memories! 👊
hi charlie, looking at your loft refurbishment video, why do you recommend 22mm chipboard as opposed to 18mm or even plywood or OSB board?
I guess the issue with plywood and OSB is you have no T&G all the way round so will need noggins - but then it's good practice to strengthen on the join if it ends between joists anyway so my 22mm is no great benefit here. If your ply or osb is only 18mm or less you will need a sub base to strengthen it.
I got some flush handles for a fraction of the cost from Hiatt hardware. They are the same quality and probably the same supplier as Screwfix/Toolstation.
Good work 👌
I can't find your video for the drainpipes Charlie? I've looked at what youtube says is all your videos (there are a lot of them!) but none about drain pipes :(
D'you mean this one ua-cam.com/video/rG5bTCPozVA/v-deo.htmlsi=DZtuqLNjGmNl7QAy Got hundreds of clips for a new one that will be seeing some time next year.
Its only a personal point BUT i really dont see the sense in applying glue/adhesive in thin lines ,more so on wider work. it must only be covering 10% of the area max. would rather use a good glue that can be spread over most of area.
It may only be applied in a thin line but it expands, so much so that it expands out of the joint.
That’s a loft of expenditure to get a machine up there. I would’ve just got 6 mates who’ve had their weetabix.
Good point 🤣👌
I know it would have cost twice as much but as the boards weren't staggered and laid the wrong way up, could you have put a second layer on top of that first layer and staggered that and laid the correct side up?
I guess so. No real need though as it's just as strong particularly with the glue.
Cutting the hangers down, literally takes away the strength of them. You've made them kind of pointless
Charlie, do you ever have the nagging feeling of wanting to rip it all up and start over when you realise you've made mistakes? I get that feeling sometimes even when in the real world these things are done way worse, and it has hardly ever catastrophically failed the entire build... but my brain goes 'tiniest mistake and the whole thing fails' anyway.
I was reading a loft boarding website recently called the loft boys itd in Hoddesdon who recommended only storing a maximum of 25kg per square metre. I could be wrong though.
Hey Charlie, how do you handle these miskates emotional and mentally when you make or discover them? Do you get angry and curse, or wallow in self pity, or become moody and short with your family, or shrug it off and chuckle knowing it isn't worth getting upset about?
Fantastic, thanks for showing the mistakes too that's so humble of you, much respect for that, and a very enjoyable video, looking forwards to more, all the best to you.
I'm here happy I got a fully custom floating shelf rock solid in dot and dab and then I see you making crane solutions that would support Henry the 8th. Nah I've got a bit to go yet 😂
Excellent work as usual Charlie, love the honest content and it looks great! How many times did you punch the bag!👍
Shouldn’t this video be called “How NOT to board your loft” 😂
You are a top guy Charlie, not least because you are willing to admit mistakes . Thank you , your videos are a pleasure to watch.😀
🙂I was going to do this, but I got board🙂
We're in the middle of putting down 22 caber on a property renovation and it is good stuff. It is dense and really tonight! Man that glue is sticky, trying to stay off the squeeze out is so difficult 😂
You will not be the first to put floor up the wrong way and won’t be the last. It the end of the day it is a garage. Not the end of the world. If you do convert he biggest issue will be fire break, class 00 board etc.
When I did mine at my last place I cut around roof rafters and push up to the edges leaving no gap to be filled. Did take a while though cutting each one individually. Hey if the good lady and lad are happy, job well done
Great video Charlie. I liked all the ideas including the areas where you went wrong. I would have done the same with the boards and the markings...!
For me to do this, it would be: 1st - Lose weight, so I can fit through the mouse sized hole that is the attic access! They must have built this house with very, very, very, small people in mind. Please show me a video on how to enlarge the attic access hole and then maybe i can do what you have just done 😁
why did you choose to glue them together?
Got a similar space to do in my own garage loft, suffice to say I would have made the same mistakes! Great video with lots of learning points, thanks!! 👍🇬🇧
At least you bought the boards earlier, probably jumped in price since 😂
Bit late to the comments, but penn elcom recessed handles are cheaper :)
Thanks 👌
That hatch is perfectly fine only thing I would done would have done differently is used annular nails on the joist hangers
Really should have glued the subfloor to the joists to prevent squeaks and make it more solid.
Torx fixings for the win!
What impact bits are you happy with?
It's funny how much you messed up and yet very useful you listing them
Mistakes were what we learn from 😉
This is excellent - I have boarded mine but as a new build the joists would let me stick a treadmill up there haha!
Re the loft hatch I’d be tempted to screw some magnetic material to the areas where you need to pull on and get a strong magnet to give you something to pull on. Think of the magnets that people go magnet fishing with. As you have the hoist means you could use that to pull the hatch up.
Oh dear, nightmare mistakes. Thanks for sharing. The mistakes are super important.
Nice video Charlie! I've done this myself in OSB because it was almost the same price as the chipboard. Did you find a big price difference between the chipboard and OSB?
Best way to learn is from your own mistakes. Second best way to learn is from someone else's mistakes.
This may have been mentioned in another comment but how do you do this if there are pipes above the beams? Would you have to make a false floor essentiallt to raise the new floor above to create gaps between pipes and the new floor?
why chipboard instead of osb tongue&grove boards ?
Both do a similar job. It comes down to personal preference at the end of the day.
Charlie epitomises 'the man in the arena' - best damn speech ever written imo. Charlie you're an everyday hero.
Nice work. I'm just finishing laying a structural plywood floor as part of a bungalow loft conversion. I've got to sister up rafters onto the ridge RSJ. Insulation is going to be with a product called Actis which I have managed to haggle down to less than Pir board. For a habitable space for part L of UK building regs its great as it expands slightly to fill in between the rafters. I am looking forwards to seeing your StairBox video as I intend to order one. Great content.
Very interesting hoist! Is the treadmill and sofa etc. the reason you made a Hatch instead of an attic ladder
You would have made a good Roman
What would you do if you have insulation that protrudes the joists
As usual, an excellent video, Charlie - so clear and practical. Were I ever to create a YT channel, or even an Insta account, it would be called (with a tip of the knitted beanie to Ernie Wise) something like “Mistakes Wot I have Made”. Akin the film “The Plank” but with far less comedic merit. Looking forward to the Episode In Which Charlie Insulates The Garage Loft. Cheers!
Thanks Chris. Ah yes, that would be awesome. 👌 Thanks for taking the time to comment. It's much appreciated.
Great video Charlie, always such a useful channel and I’ve learnt a lot from you. Thanks for taking the time to put these out there
Instead of chisel and hammer to make the 10mm gap around rafters, a multitool would have done it with precision in seconds.
I tried that Martin but couldn't get it into the angle.
@@CharlieDIYte
👍
Using screws on joists is silly, They are strong but sheer off easy (snap) that's why you use nails like 90mm from a framing nailer, I'd stick around 6-8 per joists.
Fair point.
As someone who is about to board their loft this has been extremely useful. Good job.
Crikey Charlie, so much in here. I was initially moved to comment unfavourably on the mistakes. However, when I reflected on my own sorry progress in so many projects I thought no, the guy's being honest, let him alone. Seriously though, you've covered so much in this post, it's hard to take it all in. Over the years I've whittled down my subs to diy/woodworking chanels as I got overloaded with advice. Charlie DIYte is still there. One of the few.
Thanks buddy, I appreciate that, both your thoughts on the video and the fact that I'm still on your video list. 👊
Hi Charlie, what's your thoughts on the ryobi saw track? Very mixed reviews online but I'm tempted to pick one up. Thanks
Have you got the brushless HP saw? If so, it's probably worth getting but you won't be able to rip down a full sheet with it. It's ok but a bit more flimsy than the aluminium tracks. Plus you have to guess the entry point of the blade as it's a few mm from the edge of the track.
Hey mate, this is not criticism but IMO you should not be using chipboard in an unheated space no matter what the manufacturer claims. Actually I don't think they would disagree with me here but your garage is way more prone to damp, and atmospheric conditions that your house. So what means is that you want something with structural support even if your beams are 6". OSB is substantially more cost effective than the chipboard that you went for and is stronger and easier to work with (it's lighter because you can use 18mm). If you really want sheer strength, and you might if you are putting a treadmill there, then go for structural ply or you can even get cement board. In fact if you went for cement board, you wouldn't need to care about spacing but the cost of fixing is a bit higher.
As to hidden screws and MDF or really any sheet material with tg4, you absolutely do not screw into the tongue part. The first screw goes about 1" away from the edge. If you screw into the tongue you are compromising the structural integrity of the material.
Thanks for this. I hear what you say but it's moisture resistant chipboard but most importantly it's a dry well ventilated space so no problems with damp. Good point about the hidden screws 👊
Aren't OSB boards supposed to be better than that type, which is supposed to get damp etc? Thanks for the content, it's really useful for me going into my first owned house and needing to do lots of the work myself. I'm here because of research on this very subject.
You should only use boards which are designed for flooring. I've not seen OSB or MDF certified for flooring. If damp is a concern then you get get waterproof chipboard flooring. I think the only point in gluing to joists is to prevent squeaking.
I’m adding some loft flooring right into the roof corners - will only have boxes stored on them (no one is short enough to stand in these areas!). Anyway thought I’d watch this just to see if I could get any hints or tips. Definitely some food for thought. One idea…your loft hatch. What about a system similar to drain inspection? Sausage shaped holes that T bars fit into? Insert and twist to lock the T bar and lift to lift the hatch?
Yes I like the T bar idea. Thanks for that 👊
Amazing as always - the mistakes are the best bit!
Excellent video Charlie, as always. Thank you for the honesty, the sign of a good teacher.
Really useful, thank for posting this video. I would never have thought of the expansion space.
Thanks, glad you found it useful 👊
Hi Charlie, Will there be a video on all the steps you took to convert your loft? I’m looking to draw up plans of converting my loft so a video would be incredibly helpful
Have you seen this update ua-cam.com/video/q9r4KZSxiRs/v-deo.html I'll try and do an update in the summer but it won't be complete because this is just a garage loft for now.
Hi Charlie, nice job👍👍 , I did my roof flooring a few years back laid on 3" by 2" lengths of wood as my loft joist are all over the place Hight and distance wise , added leg supports and screwed never bothered with clueing , no need after all the screw are fixed in , not had a issue with separation or splitting
Thanks Stuart. Sounds like you did a good job there 👌
Once again a timely vid. Had a loft hatch installed by a plumber who needed additional access, and he cut two joists with no reinforcement! So I am looking to add some strength- good to see how you've done it. I have used 22mm caber before and agree it's good stuff.
Glad to hear you found it useful. Thanks for the comment 👊