Had damp and mouldy smell in my launge for years. After a lot of replacing plaster and keeping a window open all through winter months, I decided to rip up the floor boards. My DPC was old-fashioned slates. Broken and missing motar from joints and some of the slates had deteriorated. Thorough cleaning, then replaced broken and deteriorated slates. Repointed, then cleared a whole lot of damp dirt from underneath the suspended flooring. Let the area dry out for approx 1 month. Yeah, it was a long, hard, and messy job, but it was worth it. Replastered wall. Replaced damp skirting and floorboards. Sanded and varnished wooden floor. Damp walls and smell gone. Oh, I also had to dig up the concrete paving under the windows outside as it was higher than the airbricks. I replaced the rotten makeshift airbricks covering with clay airbricks. My launge has remained damp free and smells great for over 3yrs now. And i'm a woman in her 50s! I learnt almost all I know from these DIY videos. My thing is, have a go. You never know what you can achieve. The best thing is, you save yourself a fortune.
This is the first video of yours that I've seen and honestly I think it immediately became my favorite DIY video. You took the mistery out of a fairly intransigent ubiquitous problem and explained everything perfectly. A fantastically helpful video, well done mate! Thanks very much.
Damp will come through that plaster I promise you, there is no special coating to stop the damp, the coating will just peel and bubble off. In an old house (mine is 250 years old), the only sure way is to take out a section of the wall at floor level say 4 bricks length at time at ground level either one brick or two bricks thick, then with the hole clearance available dig out as much below ground which was under the bricks you have taken out, a breaker drill will do the job beautifully especially if you can break up the adjacent floor say 3 inches out and that will enable you to sideways dig out the old damp foundation rubble causing the rising damp. Having dug out your new foundation trench you have , now you have to put in there what you would use as if was a new house you were building, ie impervious materials, quality concrete, DPC and blue clay impervious bricks. This might sound like hard work but it's worth it. The best thing is that the layer you put in say 2 bricks high when dried off, will be totally dry and the damp brickwork above it will dry out at about an inch or 2 a month, even quicker if you want to use a fan on the wall continuously. A 4 brick section of the wall taken out at a time and it won't take long and in the end you know it's been done right and any plastering done above that new brickwork you know it will be good and dry.
Brilliant tutorial considering not a plasterer by trade a fantastic job, u make it look so easy, I'm in the process of house buying & just found out from my survey it looks like it's got some rising damp on the outside wall, just haven't a clue what to do now knowing this 😞 not sure i want to commit to it now, the surveyor has marked it rating 2) ( orange ) & not 3) red thank God, but looks like it still needs addressing 🤔 great video though
Just put dry rods in the house I am renovating. It has a mixture of solid walls and cavity walls. I found many problems before installing the rods, and consider them "belt and braces!" There were redundant vents below floor lever that should have been removed when concrete floors were installed. Ground levels well above old slate damp course, slates on roof that didn't reach gutter, drainage pipes underground that were held together with parcel tape, damp courses bridged inside. Also concrete right up to house walls (my pet hate.) I dug 10 inches down and put a gravel trap around the house. Poor house has been sat in a moat for years! That was just the beginning, I could write a book.
I did a 3000 word essay on Damp once, I have a thrilling life. Although every situation is different 80% of damp problems are caused by condensation and rising damp is very rare. There are walls constantly immersed in water at the BRE but the damp never rises more than 4inches. Penetrating damp is more common from broken gutters, for example. A lot of damp I’ve seen is caused by external cement render preventing the natural diffusion of vapour through the wall. Heat gradients on internal walls cause condensation at the lowest levels the constant damp accumulated here causes a reaction with the plaster producing salts which are hygroscopic sucking in even more water. This is often mistaken for rising damp. Ventilation and humidity control is the cure most problems in these days of insulation and double glazing.
Wish they did similar products for garages. I have a huge problem with water seeping through an underground wall. You're a brave man to take on plastering as a non professional. The tiniest imperfections are magnified once you get silk paint on there.
They do tanking products that would do a garage. I'm quite good at plastering, it sort of came naturally to me without being taught but I only use matt paint 👍🏼
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy What's a tanking product? Is that the word I should search by? Yeah, matt paint hides a lot of sins but I do like the sheen of silk. Just give sa wall a bit of life without it being OTT.
@@Martial-Mat dpc = damp proof course usually 150mm above ground level. The tanking is for the walls and you can use a damp proof membrane on the floor like I did in my garage. Here's a link to the video Damp proofing the garage/workshop floor and new osb flooring ua-cam.com/video/k6E94o63iAI/v-deo.html
please advise. Inside home walls show white mould on walls from leaking water pipe underground. do skirting boards need to be removed and also treated if the floor was wet and it crept up the wall? tia
My guess would be gypsum plaster sealing-in the moisture causing the build-up of the wet. Solution: Remove all the gypsum plaster and replace with an appropriate BREATHABLE plaster and problem solved. It's amazing that people do things and are completely oblivious to what is actually going on around them.
I’ve got an 1850s house and an old skirting board has rotted on an internal wall. I’ve not taken it off yet, but it has to be rising damp. Have watched loads of your other videos for brilliant advice and going to give this a whirl!
Has it dealt with the symptoms, what about the cause. The damp will still be there behind it. I spoke with someone who did this and damp reappeared further up 4 or 5 years later. Hope it works for you.
I had this but I Checked behind skirting board and it was dry. The issue wasn’t rising damp but simply condensation from the cold wall as it’s solid. Ventilation was the solution so not necessary to drill loads of holes into brickwork.
How many bags of their plaster did you need to do the size you did? I am doing exactly the same width but up to 1.8m, so plan to buy double the amount you used. Thank you for this video and for your answer in advance!
If we have on the first floor from the ground mould and the same wall in the next room on the second floor from the bottom. So how to work on the second floor? Where does the water go, if we do Similar ways? Does water not go to the first floor from the top? how to fix that wall on the first and second floor?
Have you any evidence of your rising damp? I advise you to not inject your walls.. such a heavy work that breaks your home. Do you know other solutions to fix it?
@@nick2207 A friend of mine has used a DIY solution, an electromagnetic polarity inverter, which seems pretty recent in UK. It worked very very well, he was diagnosed by them on the phone. The company he worked with was BFL I think. Never heard of it?
Ive been told the best way to deal with chimney salts is to knock all the render off, then spray it with TG500 and use Sika 1 in the mix. Is this right for chimney salts?
Recently had a quote for £1056 to do less than a meter of rising damp. No way i'm paying that. Thank you so much for this video. I think i will now do it myself 👌
@@jonneymendoza Gypsum plaster layer placed over the old breathable lime plaster is locking moisture in - just remove the gypsum and problem is rectified, Everything he did in this video is nonsense.
I have this kind of problem, how much would you be liking at someone to do this for you? I’ve seen the dry rods for like 10 are about £25. Before Labour and other materials
Brickwork looked bone dusty dry!? Yet surface of gysum plaster appeared damp. Doesn't seem like the problem was from behind the plaster. Was a damp survey done first? Looks like you've just hidden the real problem for a few years. Hope the floor scrubbed up well after too. A few more dust sheets down would have saved you hours of cleaning up.
Hi mark watch other video dry zone similar but they use 4 X3 plasterboards nearly same method so put in express system (dry zone)an also Google damp Sam express system I was using aqua boards but to be honest when I saw damp Sam an dry zone using normal 4 X3 boards I've changed to them hope this help pal 👍👍👍saves u mixing up the renovating plaster which I don't like them google or phone dry zone up or go to the merchant off they have the products video was good to watch he was good but I prefer the other way using boards 👍👍👍👍
The electric socket has been moved at some point and the affected area filled with bonding coat which is unsuitable for low levels where salts can be present. All that was needed was the affected area be chopped out and then patched with the dryzone express system or salt resistant render.
Those walls are visibly bone dry, the problem is it’s been patched with gypsum plaster at the area where it is damp. You can see the bonding that’s been used.
I think the 1st coat of plaster should be as instructions on bag-- because it needs to get in all the cracks and crevasses to seal the brickwork better-- then yes make it slightly thicker for 2nd coat . good job well done and thanks for sharing.
It could've only been rising damp. There weren't any other sources of moisture that could have affected that wall. And when I drilled the mortar it was very damp so it was the whole wall not just that area.
Not rising damp, contaminated plaster if mortar or brick dust is coming out big giveaway. Also very isolated patch if the plaster (which shouldn’t be directly on the brick) if plaster is too low touching the floor wall joint will draw up moisture. And if you have a reputable company do the work you will get a guarantee so if the treatment is unsuccessful, they will come back and sort for nothing👍🍺😎. The salts in the contaminated plaster will make the patch always look wet.
Just two points. 1. If you have to remove the plaster back to brick on a solid 9” wall anyway. Don’t waste money on an injection system, just get it plastered in lime. NHL3.5 will do the job, and dry in a similar tins to gypsum (which is trapping your moisture inside the bricks. 2. Rising damp doesn’t exist. Water travels down, either your ground level outside is too high (dig it out and lower it), idd red your gutter is overflowing.
But it is an internal wall, both sides are in my house, one side in living room and the other in the hall with no water or pipes anywhere near. The mortar behind the skirting boards was like damp soil and smelt like damp soil. A lot of people have said rising damp doesn't exist so why does every new building require a dpm and dpc?? I'm no expert that's why I sought advice from safeguard.
@@BrainFizz I know old builds had slate dpc this is a 1930s house but I'm unsure what the dpc is or was but external walls are fine just the internals. The floors are all solid concrete
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy there you go then, there’s your cause…. The modern floors have most likely. Bridged the original DPC on the internal walls and stopped the original airflow under the ground floor..
How many DIY’ers can actually apply render and can he be 100% certain that the mortar joint is totally sealed with the cream so where is the guarantee going to come from.
I am only a DIYer at this and plastering. The manufacturer gave me all the instructions to follow to make the video. And if I can DIY plaster I'm sure others can too if they have a go.
Damp is water .... If you treat the way you did .... Then where does all that water or damp goes ..... Because before treatment damp would evaporate in air ....
It’s a decent system but Sika also do an impregnating compound the appropriate holes are filled with the use of an ordinary caulking gun. A little bit of advice when using SBR as a bonding/sealing coat, damp the substrate firstly. The SBR is more easily absorbed into the substrate. Unfortunately gypsum is very water soluble, very. Better to use a lime based render as it’s also breathable.
I can't understand why you had a very localised problem and it suddenly turned into you replacing bottom band of plaster along whole length of wall and re-skimming the whole wall - seems a tad OTT to me.
doesn't this just push the moisture somewhere else. you make a barrier to where it is coming through right now, but who knows where that moisture is going instead. I can't help but see this as a temporary thing. Usually pushing the problem down the road to the next owner of the house (first hand experience of this happening right now)
You might be right but it depends on the cause. The video doesn’t have enough information in it to explain the cause as it’s about this system. Internal non-party walls with a concrete floor can be a head scratcher.
Had neighbour with damp who had it treated similarly to this. All that happened, was the damp came through into my house through the adjoining wall. After they moved, the new neighbour removed an old extension only to find an old blocked drain. I cleaned and made good and the damp slowly dried over time!. This stuff just costs money and doesn't solve the issue just masks it
Always looks easy then when you start the first step, taking off the skirting, on a 30s planked floor house takes the jam right out of your doughnut. Nails rusted to the brick, skirting ends up as kinling and you can't buy that Suze and type anywhere on the planet so the whole room needs reskirted and the water table is so high under the floor that there's an inch of standing water. Let's get some real world problems. As you say anyone could fix that one.
I don't know why all these types of videos are hated. In other parts of Europe they do the same thing and it works but in the UK most people are afraid of it.
They contain a chemical that filters into the mortar to create a barrier. Thanks for watching and if you'd like to subscribe to my channel that would be great 👍🏼
How about this: " After damp-course installation, it is very important that the treated walls are left to dry for a period of several months before any re-plastering / re-rendering, painting.... Generally, it may take about a minimum 3 months of drying before any re-plastering/re-rendering can be done. Very salty walls should be left to dry for a minimum 6 months..."
And yet you’ve done a hell of a lot better job at plastering than our council hired of cowboy contractors 🤦♀️😂 they skimmed our kitchen and bathroom walls terrible and the plaster may aswell be non existent 🤦♀️
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy I've had a similar issue, internal wall, absolutely no way of water getting in apart from the ground allegedly. Spent years and lots of money (including a system like the one in this video), professional opinions - couldn't resolve it, until I installed a new ventilation system. Now moisture is low in the house and the issue has disappeared despite high rainfall. Likely same thing happening here... those bricks look dry similar to ours, even if the mortar is saturated, doesn't mean it's coming from rising damp, likely the moisture pooling on that wall is seeping into there. The wall closer to the ground in certain spots is colder, temperature may well be affected by groundwater underneath house but not rising damp in the way a lot of people make out. Definitely not worth removing plaster / pumping in chemicals into your wall / replastering IMO. Cancel Reply
Non of this is needed!!! You said it’s a solid wall…..you have modern materials that do but allow moisture to escape! What you have is condensation which is exactly what they call rising damp ……it doesn’t exist! If you had taken the plaster off and let it dry out that’s it plus a lime plaster afterwards No idea if you have cement render on outside but if you do this is further more your issue as cement and gypsum trap moisture!
Had damp and mouldy smell in my launge for years. After a lot of replacing plaster and keeping a window open all through winter months, I decided to rip up the floor boards. My DPC was old-fashioned slates. Broken and missing motar from joints and some of the slates had deteriorated. Thorough cleaning, then replaced broken and deteriorated slates. Repointed, then cleared a whole lot of damp dirt from underneath the suspended flooring. Let the area dry out for approx 1 month. Yeah, it was a long, hard, and messy job, but it was worth it.
Replastered wall. Replaced damp skirting and floorboards. Sanded and varnished wooden floor.
Damp walls and smell gone. Oh, I also had to dig up the concrete paving under the windows outside as it was higher than the airbricks. I replaced the rotten makeshift airbricks covering with clay airbricks. My launge has remained damp free and smells great for over 3yrs now.
And i'm a woman in her 50s!
I learnt almost all I know from these DIY videos.
My thing is, have a go. You never know what you can achieve. The best thing is, you save yourself a fortune.
Nice one lady
Well explained and demonstrated, thanks. Made things a lot clearer.
This is the first video of yours that I've seen and honestly I think it immediately became my favorite DIY video. You took the mistery out of a fairly intransigent ubiquitous problem and explained everything perfectly. A fantastically helpful video, well done mate! Thanks very much.
Your favourite diy video. Wow what a compliment.
Just glad you found it useful 👍🏼
Nice job, can tell you take pride In your work, tidy.
I had a cold wall in my wardrobe. Love their products used the damp proof paste and heat reflective wallpaper.
Their products really impress me 👍🏼
Dude, fantastic video. I had 2 professionals cone and do my external wall, took them 3 days and the damp came back. Gonna send them your link.
Lol that's why I'm determine to do it myself.
Damp will come through that plaster I promise you, there is no special coating to stop the damp, the coating will just peel and bubble off. In an old house (mine is 250 years old), the only sure way is to take out a section of the wall at floor level say 4 bricks length at time at ground level either one brick or two bricks thick, then with the hole clearance available dig out as much below ground which was under the bricks you have taken out, a breaker drill will do the job beautifully especially if you can break up the adjacent floor say 3 inches out and that will enable you to sideways dig out the old damp foundation rubble causing the rising damp. Having dug out your new foundation trench you have , now you have to put in there what you would use as if was a new house you were building, ie impervious materials, quality concrete, DPC and blue clay impervious bricks. This might sound like hard work but it's worth it. The best thing is that the layer you put in say 2 bricks high when dried off, will be totally dry and the damp brickwork above it will dry out at about an inch or 2 a month, even quicker if you want to use a fan on the wall continuously. A 4 brick section of the wall taken out at a time and it won't take long and in the end you know it's been done right and any plastering done above that new brickwork you know it will be good and dry.
It's not meant to stop it. The rods do.
Absolutely brilliant video. Excellent explanation all thro.
Excellent product. Explained well
Cracking job mate...your trowel skills are very good
Thank you, plastering sort of came naturally to me 👍🏼
Brilliant tutorial considering not a plasterer by trade a fantastic job, u make it look so easy, I'm in the process of house buying & just found out from my survey it looks like it's got some rising damp on the outside wall, just haven't a clue what to do now knowing this 😞 not sure i want to commit to it now, the surveyor has marked it rating 2) ( orange ) & not 3) red thank God, but looks like it still needs addressing 🤔 great video though
Just put dry rods in the house I am renovating. It has a mixture of solid walls and cavity walls. I found many problems before installing the rods, and consider them "belt and braces!" There were redundant vents below floor lever that should have been removed when concrete floors were installed. Ground levels well above old slate damp course, slates on roof that didn't reach gutter, drainage pipes underground that were held together with parcel tape, damp courses bridged inside. Also concrete right up to house walls (my pet hate.) I dug 10 inches down and put a gravel trap around the house. Poor house has been sat in a moat for years! That was just the beginning, I could write a book.
Do it ! 🙏 I want to make an appointment with you, so you can teach me all this
You are just awesome. Can we use it on the outside wall please. Thanks so much for your presentation
Did you do the same on the other side of the wall?
Trying the dryzone rods tomorrow. How amazing is this technology?
I did a 3000 word essay on Damp once, I have a thrilling life. Although every situation is different 80% of damp problems are caused by condensation and rising damp is very rare. There are walls constantly immersed in water at the BRE but the damp never rises more than 4inches. Penetrating damp is more common from broken gutters, for example. A lot of damp I’ve seen is caused by external cement render preventing the natural diffusion of vapour through the wall. Heat gradients on internal walls cause condensation at the lowest levels the constant damp accumulated here causes a reaction with the plaster producing salts which are hygroscopic sucking in even more water. This is often mistaken for rising damp. Ventilation and humidity control is the cure most problems in these days of insulation and double glazing.
Wish they did similar products for garages. I have a huge problem with water seeping through an underground wall.
You're a brave man to take on plastering as a non professional. The tiniest imperfections are magnified once you get silk paint on there.
They do tanking products that would do a garage.
I'm quite good at plastering, it sort of came naturally to me without being taught but I only use matt paint 👍🏼
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy What's a tanking product? Is that the word I should search by?
Yeah, matt paint hides a lot of sins but I do like the sheen of silk. Just give sa wall a bit of life without it being OTT.
@@Martial-Mat tanking is for walls with ground levels above the dpc so the likes of basements
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy I'm sorry - what's the dpc? Can I use tanking on floors? Can it be painted?
@@Martial-Mat dpc = damp proof course usually 150mm above ground level. The tanking is for the walls and you can use a damp proof membrane on the floor like I did in my garage. Here's a link to the video
Damp proofing the garage/workshop floor and new osb flooring
ua-cam.com/video/k6E94o63iAI/v-deo.html
please advise. Inside home walls show white mould on walls from leaking water pipe underground. do skirting boards need to be removed and also treated if the floor was wet and it crept up the wall? tia
My guess would be gypsum plaster sealing-in the moisture causing the build-up of the wet. Solution: Remove all the gypsum plaster and replace with an appropriate BREATHABLE plaster and problem solved. It's amazing that people do things and are completely oblivious to what is actually going on around them.
This!!!! NHL 3.5, and check the exterior ground level, and guttering too!
Exactly 💯
Thank you!
You're welcome. Hope my video helps you with your rising damp.
Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing 👍🏼
Great job, be proud of your work 👍
Thank you, nice comment. I should be more proud of my work but I'm my own worst critic 😂
Can you do it from the outside if the wall has an external face
Hi good evening can you tell me what are this white thing in the wall is the candles
I’ve got an 1850s house and an old skirting board has rotted on an internal wall. I’ve not taken it off yet, but it has to be rising damp. Have watched loads of your other videos for brilliant advice and going to give this a whirl!
Let me know how you get on 👍🏼
www.youtube.com/@WarmDryHome
rising damp does not exist: scammers like this do! AVOID
@whiterabbit1632 if rising damp doesn't exist what is that on his wall at start of the video
Has it dealt with the symptoms,
what about the cause. The damp will still be there behind it. I spoke with someone who did this and damp reappeared further up 4 or 5 years later. Hope it works for you.
Impressive work brother very gorgeous
very impressive plastering how much experience you have with that? might have to hire.a plasterer to do that part, but would love to try myself ha
Cool video la, finished product looks boss
Can you send me the link to buy all the materials for this job please.
Many thanks
The links should all be in the video description 👍🏼
What a fantastic video. Explanations' and methods demonstrated clearly. Well done and thank you, this has greatly helped with my next DIY project.
So glad my video has helped you out 👍🏼
can you use this method with breeze blocks
This is very helpful. Thank you 🙏🏼
How is it helpful? He does not have a clue about old house! Have you heard of lime?
So what function do the rods serve? Do they wick the damp?
They create a damp proof course in the brickwork. I probably should have said that in the video 🙈
Thanks Mate - exactly what I was looking for. Saved me tons of time. Cheers.
Niceeeeeee you did a boss job
How well is it holding up after some time has went by?
It's still looking good
I had this but I Checked behind skirting board and it was dry. The issue wasn’t rising damp but simply condensation from the cold wall as it’s solid. Ventilation was the solution so not necessary to drill loads of holes into brickwork.
How many bags of their plaster did you need to do the size you did? I am doing exactly the same width but up to 1.8m, so plan to buy double the amount you used. Thank you for this video and for your answer in advance!
Am Michael from Ghana where can I get the product some
Thank you. Very useful
What about external side of wall?
If we have on the first floor from the ground mould and the same wall in the next room on the second floor from the bottom.
So how to work on the second floor? Where does the water go, if we do Similar ways?
Does water not go to the first floor from the top?
how to fix that wall on the first and second floor?
plug socket conveniently located away from the rising damp area lol. nice.
Just lucky with that one I guess
Great video!! thanks
Glad you liked it! 👍🏼
whats rthe purpose of the rods >?
I have a terrace house, at what height does tbis need to be injected, as i have solid oak wood nailed to the floor.
Have you any evidence of your rising damp? I advise you to not inject your walls.. such a heavy work that breaks your home. Do you know other solutions to fix it?
@@BryanNeill-yg5db no I don't what can you suggest
@@nick2207 A friend of mine has used a DIY solution, an electromagnetic polarity inverter, which seems pretty recent in UK. It worked very very well, he was diagnosed by them on the phone. The company he worked with was BFL I think. Never heard of it?
Brill video thanks a million
You're very welcome, thanks for watching 👍🏼
Really helpful video, thankyou! And you did a great job on that plastering!
Glad you found it helpful! I'm just a DIYer at plastering but I did pick it up quickly.
Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing 👍🏼
Ive been told the best way to deal with chimney salts is to knock all the render off, then spray it with TG500 and use Sika 1 in the mix. Is this right for chimney salts?
Recently had a quote for £1056 to do less than a meter of rising damp. No way i'm paying that. Thank you so much for this video. I think i will now do it myself 👌
Thanks, amazing!
Amazing this mate, wanted to ask does the other side need plastering as it’s an internal wall?
If it's affected by the damp then it will need re-plastering.
Thanks for watching and if you'd like to subscribe to my channel that would be great 👍🏼
great video mate 🤙
Thanks!
You're welcome.
Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing 👍🏼
Great stuff. Did you manage find out teh cause of the rsing damp? If so, how did you fix it so it doesnt occure again?
How did he fix it? With dry rods of course, did you not watch the video?
@@czx68 no, what was the cause of it
@@jonneymendoza Gypsum plaster layer placed over the old breathable lime plaster is locking moisture in - just remove the gypsum and problem is rectified, Everything he did in this video is nonsense.
@@adrienne7513 would plaster board drywall be better for preventing damp?
Great job and well explained thank you 😅
Thanks for the detailed installation I am going to use the product next few days 👍
Wow and your not a plasterer wish I could do as good. Great video
You might be good at plastering, you never know unless you have a go 👍🏼
I have this kind of problem, how much would you be liking at someone to do this for you? I’ve seen the dry rods for like 10 are about £25. Before Labour and other materials
Grand job that m8! 👌
Brickwork looked bone dusty dry!?
Yet surface of gysum plaster appeared damp.
Doesn't seem like the problem was from behind the plaster.
Was a damp survey done first?
Looks like you've just hidden the real problem for a few years.
Hope the floor scrubbed up well after too. A few more dust sheets down would have saved you hours of cleaning up.
Is it possible to reuse the dryrod offcuts (for example put two in together)?
Yes I think that would work fine 👍🏼
👍👍👍Thanks
You're welcome 👍🏼
very good video ! if you was plasterboarding after the dryzone rods what salt neutraliser would you use on the wall ? thankyou
Hi mark watch other video dry zone similar but they use 4 X3 plasterboards nearly same method so put in express system (dry zone)an also Google damp Sam express system I was using aqua boards but to be honest when I saw damp Sam an dry zone using normal 4 X3 boards I've changed to them hope this help pal 👍👍👍saves u mixing up the renovating plaster which I don't like them google or phone dry zone up or go to the merchant off they have the products video was good to watch he was good but I prefer the other way using boards 👍👍👍👍
well done..
If you use the rods externally, what do you need to do to cover them up?
Good video, but one thing I don’t get is what is the purpose of the rods? I don’t get it
You did a nice job. Be interesting to find out why that wall was getting damp, must be some water source underneath there.
The house is 90 years old so I think whatever damp proof course they used if any is now failing so damp is beginning to rise in a few places
The electric socket has been moved at some point and the affected area filled with bonding coat which is unsuitable for low levels where salts can be present. All that was needed was the affected area be chopped out and then patched with the dryzone express system or salt resistant render.
Those walls are visibly bone dry, the problem is it’s been patched with gypsum plaster at the area where it is damp.
You can see the bonding that’s been used.
This is something I’m going to have to do in the near future, you made that look so easy
How much that cost to fix this labour and material
Only needed lime plaster and breathable paint
Could you just dot and dab wall instead of plastering ?
have someone tried ? does it help for the water not to come anymore from the floor ?
Yes it does good stuff .but no need to plaster the wall.just use plaster bord
superb
amazing
why did you not use plasterboard ?
Because the rest of the wall had solid plaster I decided to keep it solid plaster, looking back plaster board might have been easier
I think the 1st coat of plaster should be as instructions on bag-- because it needs to get in all the cracks and crevasses to seal the brickwork better-- then yes make it slightly thicker for 2nd coat . good job well done and thanks for sharing.
Is the skirting board new? If not why not remove the skirting board first to see what is happening behind the skirting board first?
It could've only been rising damp. There weren't any other sources of moisture that could have affected that wall. And when I drilled the mortar it was very damp so it was the whole wall not just that area.
Not rising damp, contaminated plaster if mortar or brick dust is coming out big giveaway. Also very isolated patch if the plaster (which shouldn’t be directly on the brick) if plaster is too low touching the floor wall joint will draw up moisture.
And if you have a reputable company do the work you will get a guarantee so if the treatment is unsuccessful, they will come back and sort for nothing👍🍺😎.
The salts in the contaminated plaster will make the patch always look wet.
It could be bridged somewhere
Yes hard to tell without seeing the other side of that wall
All you had to do was chop out the bonding coat and board using their express system. Bonding coat is not suitable for salt affected areas.
Just two points.
1. If you have to remove the plaster back to brick on a solid 9” wall anyway. Don’t waste money on an injection system, just get it plastered in lime. NHL3.5 will do the job, and dry in a similar tins to gypsum (which is trapping your moisture inside the bricks.
2. Rising damp doesn’t exist. Water travels down, either your ground level outside is too high (dig it out and lower it), idd red your gutter is overflowing.
But it is an internal wall, both sides are in my house, one side in living room and the other in the hall with no water or pipes anywhere near. The mortar behind the skirting boards was like damp soil and smelt like damp soil.
A lot of people have said rising damp doesn't exist so why does every new building require a dpm and dpc??
I'm no expert that's why I sought advice from safeguard.
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy old builds had dpc too. Probably made from slate.
Are your floors still wooden on joists?
@@BrainFizz I know old builds had slate dpc this is a 1930s house but I'm unsure what the dpc is or was but external walls are fine just the internals.
The floors are all solid concrete
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy there you go then, there’s your cause…. The modern floors have most likely. Bridged the original DPC on the internal walls and stopped the original airflow under the ground floor..
@@BrainFizz but the floors are the original parquet, oak in living room and mahogany in hall
How many DIY’ers can actually apply render and can he be 100% certain that the mortar joint is totally sealed with the cream so where is the guarantee going to come from.
Yea this is not really a DIYer. If you can DIY this then you could do a hell of a lot then yourself!
I am only a DIYer at this and plastering.
The manufacturer gave me all the instructions to follow to make the video.
And if I can DIY plaster I'm sure others can too if they have a go.
Nooice!
Glad you enjoyed it 👍🏼
Damp is water .... If you treat the way you did .... Then where does all that water or damp goes ..... Because before treatment damp would evaporate in air ....
It’s a decent system but Sika also do an impregnating compound the appropriate holes are filled with the use of an ordinary caulking gun. A little bit of advice when using SBR as a bonding/sealing coat, damp the substrate firstly. The SBR is more easily absorbed into the substrate. Unfortunately gypsum is very water soluble, very. Better to use a lime based render as it’s also breathable.
How
Nice job! Are you able to use this system with stone walls?
I can't understand why you had a very localised problem and it suddenly turned into you replacing bottom band of plaster along whole length of wall and re-skimming the whole wall - seems a tad OTT to me.
doesn't this just push the moisture somewhere else. you make a barrier to where it is coming through right now, but who knows where that moisture is going instead. I can't help but see this as a temporary thing. Usually pushing the problem down the road to the next owner of the house (first hand experience of this happening right now)
I think it acts like a Damp proofing course with the rods then everything else sounds like over engineering it to make it fully sealed.
You might be right but it depends on the cause. The video doesn’t have enough information in it to explain the cause as it’s about this system. Internal non-party walls with a concrete floor can be a head scratcher.
Had neighbour with damp who had it treated similarly to this. All that happened, was the damp came through into my house through the adjoining wall. After they moved, the new neighbour removed an old extension only to find an old blocked drain. I cleaned and made good and the damp slowly dried over time!.
This stuff just costs money and doesn't solve the issue just masks it
Papering over the cracks, treat the source not the symptoms
0😅😊😊
More silliness
Always looks easy then when you start the first step, taking off the skirting, on a 30s planked floor house takes the jam right out of your doughnut. Nails rusted to the brick, skirting ends up as kinling and you can't buy that Suze and type anywhere on the planet so the whole room needs reskirted and the water table is so high under the floor that there's an inch of standing water. Let's get some real world problems. As you say anyone could fix that one.
I don't know why all these types of videos are hated. In other parts of Europe they do the same thing and it works but in the UK most people are afraid of it.
It's worked great for me
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy So keep doing what you do because you do it really well 🙂 Do you have any videos where you insulate a wooden floor?
@@beks1731ua-cam.com/video/oFmOurN62i4/v-deo.htmlsi=sD2FNBXuxUQplHjv
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy Thank you
Didnt really get what those plastic /rubber tubes were all about?
They contain a chemical that filters into the mortar to create a barrier.
Thanks for watching and if you'd like to subscribe to my channel that would be great 👍🏼
How about this: " After damp-course installation, it is very important that the treated walls are left to dry for a period of several months before any re-plastering / re-rendering, painting....
Generally, it may take about a minimum 3 months of drying before any re-plastering/re-rendering can be done. Very salty walls should be left to dry for a minimum 6 months..."
Or just use a dehumidifier to speed up the process.
What if it's going to be boarded?
@@ChiknnuggitbuzfeedI thought that would make cracking more likely
@@just4bantzlel33 i guess you're right about that.
Foundations are incorrectly made all over England, which is why there is fungus , he is coming from the ground❤
Can’t beat old school sand and cement if done correctly…this is basically a advertisement campaign…
And yet you’ve done a hell of a lot better job at plastering than our council hired of cowboy contractors 🤦♀️😂 they skimmed our kitchen and bathroom walls terrible and the plaster may aswell be non existent 🤦♀️
And surprise surprise the brickwork seems bone dry..
The mortar was saturated
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy Didn't look like it with the dust from the drilling.
@@anthonymclean9743 it was like wet soil and it smelt like wet soil too
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy I've had a similar issue, internal wall, absolutely no way of water getting in apart from the ground allegedly. Spent years and lots of money (including a system like the one in this video), professional opinions - couldn't resolve it, until I installed a new ventilation system. Now moisture is low in the house and the issue has disappeared despite high rainfall.
Likely same thing happening here... those bricks look dry similar to ours, even if the mortar is saturated, doesn't mean it's coming from rising damp, likely the moisture pooling on that wall is seeping into there. The wall closer to the ground in certain spots is colder, temperature may well be affected by groundwater underneath house but not rising damp in the way a lot of people make out. Definitely not worth removing plaster / pumping in chemicals into your wall / replastering IMO.
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doing a job and not protecting the wooden floor , wtf
The floor needs restoring anyway
Non of this is needed!!! You said it’s a solid wall…..you have modern materials that do but allow moisture to escape! What you have is condensation which is exactly what they call rising damp ……it doesn’t exist!
If you had taken the plaster off and let it dry out that’s it plus a lime plaster afterwards
No idea if you have cement render on outside but if you do this is further more your issue as cement and gypsum trap moisture!