Unbelievable! This worked exactly as you said. I popped the resistor in, turned on, it burnt, I took it out, turned printer back on, and walla... printed perfectly. Thank you ssoooooooooo much
Yes, I followed these directions exactly, emptied the toner waste tanks (messy messy messy) and added the 56ohm resistor. Shut the door, started up the unit, let it cycle. Turned off, opened door, resistor was burned. Now it works. I found the resistors on ebay for $3 for a pack of 10. My C430w did not have the 'chip' in the imaging unit, just like the unit in the video. Worked perfectly.
My C430W did not come with the chip and the technique still worked! I was able to carefully tape the resistor the correct two pins, put everything back in, powered up the system, the system burnt out the resistor, and then I took out the resistor. It worked perfectly.
Morton, Success! I don't understand why, but changing out all 4 of the toner cartridges with new, and at the same time fixed the yellow print problem! You're a Wizard! when the printer was warming up i noticed a mode that i hadn't ever noticed: "calibrating color density". Now the printer is like new with all the replacement parts and toner! Thanks for your cool counsel. Earl
Thanks for your video. Having the same error, and others, I decided to start with the toner removal from the unit. I didn't drill as I didn't see that as necessary. I very carefully took the 2 circlips off the green drum slid out the rod and and slipped the drum out. Obviously there is a danger of touching it so I only handled it with fingertips at either end. Standing it on end(safe) I took the remaining unit outside and shook out a large quantity of powder from within. Gave it a good shake for 5 mins then vacuum, wipe and put back the drum. I had previously tried all the reset procedures which didn't help. Once I loaded it and all of the toners etc. and restarted the machine the problem had vanished. No more faults showing. Your intuition is correct. The imaging unit can fill to the point of giving replace message. Just empty it as it might just work. It did for me(with your help). A 15 minute fix cost nothing. Thanks again.
Must admit it just worked. Drilling the 2 holes gently, using small plastic bags to empty the powder, cover it up with plastic tape. Then find 56ohm resistor (0.5W), put it on, close the lid, power on, got error C3-6520 on screen, open the lid, remove resistor. And Voilà ! I think my resistor didn't burn but it did reset counters. Thx man !
Hi Morten, Excellent Hack, I didn't have a 56 ohm resistor but had a 47 ohm one, and only drilled one hole on the right side, as there was a depression in the plastic, so drilled that out instead, you have to be very careful to ensure the resistor makes a very good connection with the two plungers, as you stated this is best done with the power removed, then when the Drum and Toner waste bin and all the colour cartridges are installed, power back up, slight smell as the resistor burns out. And now the printer works again, Prost.
Thanks for this great solution! In fact I, for the moment, skipped the emptying part and directly went to using the resistor and just could print a page🙏🎉 awesome!
As long as the print looks fine, you can continue to do this. But in general imaging drums need to be replaced eventually because the coating on the imaging drum can lose photoelectric properties over time.
thanks morton, for your quick response. that's a very odd solution, but i'll try it. i've never purchased any toner other than samsung toner, but like you said, i've for years (maybe 10??) replaced toners individually, as they've run out. funny thing was, i printed the test page from the samsung website and the colors looked normal! but from my computer (a mac) and my wife's computer (not a mac) the print was yellowish. crazy! thanks again.
I would not be sure that that is the same problem,,, maybe there is a weird setting for colorgrading the prints,, and the printer can be reset back to normal,, like a factory reset.
i think i saw a factory reset somewhere in the myriad of "helps" i've looked at!! i can tell you the i reloaded the printer drivers as well! it'd almost be easier to buy a new printer, but where's the fun in that! ha ha thanks again morton. i'll report back when (if) one of the fixes works.
So awesome! I had a similar thought process to clean out the toner from the imaging unit, and found your video on how to reset the counter. Didn't have 56 Ohm but 2x100 Ohm in parallel worked as well. Just wrapped them around the contacts leaving everything in and closed the door, red light came on, the resistors got warm and didnt burn through, removed them, it will do a clean cycle for each toner color and then the counter is set to 0. Wondering how the other counters can be reset.. but that's a problem to worry about in the future - for some reason the other counters were much lower
Glad to hear it worked,,, I would not recommend the 2x100 Ohm in parallel,, as the power they can handle dobbel,,, and something else might not handle that.
Instead of drilling holes into the plastic cartridge use an old soldering iron and MELT holes into it - since there will be NO plastic particles floating inside and damaging the image drum! I used to do that with VHS tapes to convert to S-VHS ;-)
and you can refill old cartriges of toner with new one... making an hole.. make a paper funnel... and (outside without wind) refill with new toner powder ^^
Do not vacuum toner with a regular vacumm cleaner, the filters aren't enough to keep it contained and you will spread it everywhere in the air. There's a special vacumm for toner accidents
you need a vacumm with special filters. toner is also very toxic (if not melted in the fuser), as it's so fine, it can go through the pores of your skin. it goes without saying you should not inhale it or get it in your skin. better work in an open area or wear mask when dealing with it.
@@giornikitop5373 Wrong, toner is not toxic, it is an inert fine powdered plastic. The black toner is usually made from carbon black, titanium dioxide and silica. The colours composition will differ between manufacturers. It has been suggested that due to the small size of the particles that it could potentially be carcinogenic
So I had the container with the powder the one with the yellow, red, blue and black spilling everywhere, which I cleaned it all, but then installed everything back and it said it needs toner, is my printer still okay and only needs the toners or you think I ruined it?
Excellent explanation of the fixes! Have you ever had the problem with your C480 where prints come out with a yellow cast to them? That's what i'm going thru right now. I've replaced the drum and the feed belt (over $200) and still the yellow persists.
Yes I have had issues when i switch from original toner to copy toner,, and I change them one at a time,, as they ran out.. and only when they was all change, the prints looked okay again.
Stay safe - I would not like to miss my favorite channel due to hacking of $am$ung. It was the last day of April not the first :-) By the way. I still have a 10 years old HP-printer. The only problem is that the ink is expiring. Thanks for sharing video and putting the focus on Printer Recycling.
I have since had the opportunity to look at the device that is installed in a original replacement Imaging Toner Drum, there are two components attached to electrical bridge unit, one is a 100K ohm standard resistor and the component has a green body about the same size as a resistor, this component is marked 1/16 ALf (Which is a 60mA Quickblow Littelfuse) it has an internal resistance 7.5 ohms.
Hi Morton. This hack is so good that I want to add my findings. I twisted two wires around the pins and pulled them out under the front door above the paper tray. I measured 3V. The right pin seems to be GND. When opening the door the Voltage drops. Connecting the 56ohm resistor with the door open makes the voltage go to 0V. Closing the door, starts all: the voltage goes to 3V and soon after it went beyond my scale of 20V! My 0.1W resistor got burnt outside and away of anything else that could melt. Then the printer started up and calibrated the density. On the pins I soon could measure 3V again. I assume this is for detection of a new imaging unit, because someone might need to replace it for other reasons.
if i remember my laser printers besides storing excess toner in this model, the imaging unit uses static to hold the toner to itself and then using a corona wire it can transfer the toner to the paper before going through the fuser to melt it to the paper. im guessing over time the imaging unit starts to have issues holding that static charge and the image quality can go down over time. (i also think i was told back in the day to not expose it to sunlight or touch it much either. But that was also i think the older toners with the build in imaging roller)
I have replaced this once already and it wants replacement again. I did by NO means get the 16000 pages out of this at any time, I end up getting forced to change this about every 2 times as I change toners. Awesome hack indeed.
We have some Samsung printers at my workplace (in the teachers' office) and we generally don't like them. I would personally recommend brother in terms of the compatible toners on the market. Samsung printer usually requires a longer warm-up time before each print and the long term lifespan is not as good as HP or Brother printer. HP printer is okay but their consumables are also quite expensive, plus the web interface to set up email scanning is very buggy with Office 365 email setup.
I couldn't get my hands on a 56 Ohms resistor, so I used a 68 Ohms one and it worked. It seems that using a resistor near 56 Ohms is enough. And yes, it burned as it was supposed to.
I have never tried to trim a 500Kohm poti to 56 ohms, but one wouldn't even have to burn a resistor if a poti trimmed to that value was attached and when it shows the first sign of warming gets turned to 500K again. The electronics should read that as a burnt resistor as well! That's a neat hack! ^^)
I would recommend to connect to the printer with a network cable from a laptop. There is an build in web interfaces, where you can then give your printer access to your wireless network,, or set it up as a standalone wireless thing. It can be difficult..
@@MyPlayHouse Oh I will love my new hobby, trying to understand and hack the living c*** out of this printer. And it's not "being cheap" as you put it, it is pure self preservation you are doing both environmentally and financially. You literally are about to save my life with this and I am not kidding you, so you rock beyond words for real. TY🌹
Hi Morten, that's Cool!:) I have never had a Samsung Printer. But I have several HP Printers, Scanners and Combo units. And an Epson combo unit. A Laser Printer. Also, some older Serial Port Printers, in the Garage. All of which, are throwing errors of one type or another. I wonder if, any of them have this Resistor setup in them. One of these days, I need to check into that... I also have an HP Flatbed Scanner, that still works perfectly, it's 10 or 15 years old. And a Serial Port Flatbed Scanner, that only works up to Windows 98. I Worked perfectly when Parked, in the top of my closet... Don
It does not work for me, i've tried with a 50a fuse, and the only thing that it does is restarting the printer, i mean it starts, it says initialize then it restarts, and the fuse does not blow, i doubt that with a 56ohm that's equal to 56 amps it will start normaly, any tips for me in this case?
I do have a sugestion,, go to who ever leaned you anything about electronic and ask for ALL your money back! I used a 56ohm resistance witch is like 1/4 watt,, so if the printer uses 5V this resistor would probably quit at 100-200mA,, if the voltages is higher the amperage is even lower,,, and you think it will blow a 50A fuse :-/
I've manage it to reset via Tech mode in the menu, full printer reset and counters reset, and cleaned the drum unit. Worked perfectly without having to use a resistor.
HI Renzo Pedroia My channel is English, and to make sure as many as possible, can also enjoy the comments, they are also English. Please keep to English. Thank you for watching! :-)
Im surprised that samsung would do this to there customers, its sabotage to get more money. Rather than use a resistor, use a pozistor or thermistor or similar to allow the printer to see the value it expects for a few seconds. When cool, the resistance is back to a new value. Or a small bulb? lol
Unbelievable! This worked exactly as you said. I popped the resistor in, turned on, it burnt, I took it out, turned printer back on, and walla... printed perfectly. Thank you ssoooooooooo much
Thank You!! Hope I earned a subscriber :-)
Yes, I followed these directions exactly, emptied the toner waste tanks (messy messy messy) and added the 56ohm resistor. Shut the door, started up the unit, let it cycle. Turned off, opened door, resistor was burned. Now it works. I found the resistors on ebay for $3 for a pack of 10. My C430w did not have the 'chip' in the imaging unit, just like the unit in the video. Worked perfectly.
Maybe tape the remaining 9 resistors to the inside of the printer,, for next time :-) Thank You for letting me know that it worked!
My C430W did not come with the chip and the technique still worked! I was able to carefully tape the resistor the correct two pins, put everything back in, powered up the system, the system burnt out the resistor, and then I took out the resistor. It worked perfectly.
Morton, Success! I don't understand why, but changing out all 4 of the toner cartridges with new, and at the same time fixed the yellow print problem! You're a Wizard! when the printer was warming up i noticed a mode that i hadn't ever noticed: "calibrating color density". Now the printer is like new with all the replacement parts and toner! Thanks for your cool counsel. Earl
Hi @earlfrederick83
Thank You very much! You are too kind.. glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Thanks for your video. Having the same error, and others, I decided to start with the toner removal from the unit. I didn't drill as I didn't see that as necessary. I very carefully took the 2 circlips off the green drum slid out the rod and and slipped the drum out. Obviously there is a danger of touching it so I only handled it with fingertips at either end. Standing it on end(safe) I took the remaining unit outside and shook out a large quantity of powder from within. Gave it a good shake for 5 mins then vacuum, wipe and put back the drum. I had previously tried all the reset procedures which didn't help. Once I loaded it and all of the toners etc. and restarted the machine the problem had vanished. No more faults showing. Your intuition is correct. The imaging unit can fill to the point of giving replace message. Just empty it as it might just work. It did for me(with your help). A 15 minute fix cost nothing. Thanks again.
Hi @madmad1955uk
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Must admit it just worked. Drilling the 2 holes gently, using small plastic bags to empty the powder, cover it up with plastic tape. Then find 56ohm resistor (0.5W), put it on, close the lid, power on, got error C3-6520 on screen, open the lid, remove resistor. And Voilà ! I think my resistor didn't burn but it did reset counters.
Thx man !
Awesome,, Happy to help!!
Hi Morten, Excellent Hack, I didn't have a 56 ohm resistor but had a 47 ohm one, and only drilled one hole on the right side, as there was a depression in the plastic, so drilled that out instead, you have to be very careful to ensure the resistor makes a very good connection with the two plungers, as you stated this is best done with the power removed, then when the Drum and Toner waste bin and all the colour cartridges are installed, power back up, slight smell as the resistor burns out. And now the printer works again, Prost.
Okay,, 47 ohm is close enough,, it just need to be there, and then not be there :-)
Thanks for this great solution! In fact I, for the moment, skipped the emptying part and directly went to using the resistor and just could print a page🙏🎉 awesome!
Glad it helped :-)
Super, I followed your instructions and now it works again. A slight difference on the positive side. Mine did not burn the 56 ohm resistor
Thanks for sharing,, maybe your resistor was to good..
@@MyPlayHouse I did not even get hot
As long as the print looks fine, you can continue to do this. But in general imaging drums need to be replaced eventually because the coating on the imaging drum can lose photoelectric properties over time.
I do agree :-) this is not a forever trick.
@@MyPlayHouse what happens if i try to use this as a forever trick? it wont break the printer, wont it?
thanks morton, for your quick response. that's a very odd solution, but i'll try it. i've
never purchased any toner other than samsung toner, but like you said, i've for years
(maybe 10??) replaced toners individually, as they've run out. funny thing was, i printed
the test page from the samsung website and the colors looked normal! but from my
computer (a mac) and my wife's computer (not a mac) the print was yellowish. crazy!
thanks again.
I would not be sure that that is the same problem,,, maybe there is a weird setting for colorgrading the prints,, and the printer can be reset back to normal,, like a factory reset.
i think i saw a factory reset somewhere in the myriad of "helps" i've
looked at!! i can tell you the i reloaded the printer drivers as well! it'd
almost be easier to buy a new printer, but where's the fun in that! ha ha
thanks again morton. i'll report back when (if) one of the fixes works.
So awesome! I had a similar thought process to clean out the toner from the imaging unit, and found your video on how to reset the counter. Didn't have 56 Ohm but 2x100 Ohm in parallel worked as well. Just wrapped them around the contacts leaving everything in and closed the door, red light came on, the resistors got warm and didnt burn through, removed them, it will do a clean cycle for each toner color and then the counter is set to 0. Wondering how the other counters can be reset.. but that's a problem to worry about in the future - for some reason the other counters were much lower
Glad to hear it worked,,, I would not recommend the 2x100 Ohm in parallel,, as the power they can handle dobbel,,, and something else might not handle that.
Worked!! Thank you SOOOO much! Easy to follow directions. Perfect from first page printed after this "reset"
You're welcome! happy to help!!
Instead of drilling holes into the plastic cartridge use an old soldering iron and MELT holes into it - since there will be NO plastic particles floating inside and damaging the image drum! I used to do that with VHS tapes to convert to S-VHS ;-)
and you can refill old cartriges of toner with new one... making an hole.. make a paper funnel... and (outside without wind) refill with new toner powder ^^
Okay,, I have heard about the soldering iron trick on the color cartridges if you want to refill them.
Do not vacuum toner with a regular vacumm cleaner, the filters aren't enough to keep it contained and you will spread it everywhere in the air. There's a special vacumm for toner accidents
That is a bloody fine powder :-/
you need a vacumm with special filters. toner is also very toxic (if not melted in the fuser), as it's so fine, it can go through the pores of your skin. it goes without saying you should not inhale it or get it in your skin. better work in an open area or wear mask when dealing with it.
@@giornikitop5373 Wrong, toner is not toxic, it is an inert fine powdered plastic. The black toner is usually made from carbon black, titanium dioxide and silica. The colours composition will differ between manufacturers. It has been suggested that due to the small size of the particles that it could potentially be carcinogenic
So I had the container with the powder the one with the yellow, red, blue and black spilling everywhere, which I cleaned it all, but then installed everything back and it said it needs toner, is my printer still okay and only needs the toners or you think I ruined it?
Excellent explanation of the fixes! Have you ever had the problem with your C480 where prints come out with a yellow cast to them? That's what i'm going thru right now. I've replaced the drum and the feed belt (over $200) and still the yellow persists.
Yes I have had issues when i switch from original toner to copy toner,, and I change them one at a time,, as they ran out.. and only when they was all change, the prints looked okay again.
Stay safe - I would not like to miss my favorite channel due to hacking of $am$ung.
It was the last day of April not the first :-)
By the way. I still have a 10 years old HP-printer. The only problem is that the ink is expiring.
Thanks for sharing video and putting the focus on Printer Recycling.
I do not understand..
I have since had the opportunity to look at the device that is installed in a original replacement Imaging Toner Drum, there are two components attached to electrical bridge unit, one is a 100K ohm standard resistor and the component has a green body about the same size as a resistor, this component is marked 1/16 ALf (Which is a 60mA Quickblow Littelfuse) it has an internal resistance 7.5 ohms.
Okay cool,,a little fuse that blows!!
Hi Morten
Is ist necessary to close the printer in order to start the resistor burning or can I leave the front open?
I could only do this once,, I do not know! in 15.000-20.000 prints I can try again :-/
Hi Morton. This hack is so good that I want to add my findings.
I twisted two wires around the pins and pulled them out under the front door above the paper tray.
I measured 3V. The right pin seems to be GND.
When opening the door the Voltage drops. Connecting the 56ohm resistor with the door open makes the voltage go to 0V.
Closing the door, starts all: the voltage goes to 3V and soon after it went beyond my scale of 20V! My 0.1W resistor got burnt outside and away of anything else that could melt. Then the printer started up and calibrated the density.
On the pins I soon could measure 3V again. I assume this is for detection of a new imaging unit, because someone might need to replace it for other reasons.
Thanks for sharing ninja hack! 👍
This may be useful!
Great video, as always!
Hi Arturs Mihelsons
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Just another little trick; you can go into Tech mode and reset the counters which negates the need to even need the resistor :)
I have heard about that,, not tried it..
@@MyPlayHouse one for next time 😃
Hello Morten! Great video!
But exposing the drum unit to the sun was a bad idea.
Yes,,, propoly,, no damaged registered.
It's OK for a short time ... Of course it's better to cover it somehow ....
if i remember my laser printers besides storing excess toner in this model, the imaging unit uses static to hold the toner to itself and then using a corona wire it can transfer the toner to the paper before going through the fuser to melt it to the paper. im guessing over time the imaging unit starts to have issues holding that static charge and the image quality can go down over time. (i also think i was told back in the day to not expose it to sunlight or touch it much either. But that was also i think the older toners with the build in imaging roller)
Hi jjjacer
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Thank you. It worked perfectly.
That is awesome!! thank You for letting me know.. :-)
I have replaced this once already and it wants replacement again. I did by NO means get the 16000 pages out of this at any time, I end up getting forced to change this about every 2 times as I change toners. Awesome hack indeed.
Hope it helps you,, remember to use a week resistor :-) it needs to "blow" a little like a fuse but with the right amount of power.
Do you have to empty the drum though?
You,, should,, at some point it will be full,, and mess with you.
Superrrr I did follow your instructions and I was able to fix it! thank youuuuuuu
Glad it helped! You are very welcome..
hey Morten what kind of Windows Server you recomend for IBM System X3550 M2 "Model Name 71G"?
Server 2019
@@MyPlayHouse thanks!
do you have experience with the fuser as well?
No,, not yet :-/
We have some Samsung printers at my workplace (in the teachers' office) and we generally don't like them. I would personally recommend brother in terms of the compatible toners on the market. Samsung printer usually requires a longer warm-up time before each print and the long term lifespan is not as good as HP or Brother printer. HP printer is okay but their consumables are also quite expensive, plus the web interface to set up email scanning is very buggy with Office 365 email setup.
Okay,, I deliberately did not pick an HP,, as the lifespan on the toners and prices of them was higher.
modern "consumer" HP models are terrible in every aspect. only the expensive ones tend to last a long time.
I couldn't get my hands on a 56 Ohms resistor, so I used a 68 Ohms one and it worked. It seems that using a resistor near 56 Ohms is enough. And yes, it burned as it was supposed to.
Cool,, it just need to see a connection and not see a connection,, without breaking the system that does that.
Thank you! Nice trick.
Have you tried those hacked firmware for 100% toner(for diy Refill)?
Greetings from Brazil!!!👽
I did see that there was other ninja hacks..
Hello
Let me know how to reset the Samsung 3320dn printer errors.red lite blinking
Sorry I have no idea..
I have never tried to trim a 500Kohm poti to 56 ohms, but one wouldn't even have to burn a resistor if a poti trimmed to that value was attached and when it shows the first sign of warming gets turned to 500K again. The electronics should read that as a burnt resistor as well!
That's a neat hack! ^^)
Hi Eo Tunun
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
should the resistor be 2 watt?
No,, it is meant to burn off,, so do not make that any harder.
It sees the resistances and reset the counter,,,
@@MyPlayHouse i tried it, smoke was coming out of the printer so i removed it immediately. i used a resistor of 56 ohm and 0.25 Watt
but it did not work, any ideas?
worked perfectly, thank you !!!
You are most welcome!
How can I connect wireless? Please help for print Samsung c460w
I would recommend to connect to the printer with a network cable from a laptop.
There is an build in web interfaces, where you can then give your printer access to your wireless network,, or set it up as a standalone wireless thing.
It can be difficult..
Thanks, I needed this!
You are so welcome! I am so happy to be able to help extend the life of your printer,, or postpone an irritating expense 🤔
Thanks a lot - it works perfect!👍
You're welcome!
9:17 so cool
Thank You!
Seriously dude... you rock TYVM 🙌🙌🙌
Thank You! I hope you safely hack your printer,, and postpone the larger investment :-)
@@MyPlayHouse Oh I will love my new hobby, trying to understand and hack the living c*** out of this printer. And it's not "being cheap" as you put it, it is pure self preservation you are doing both environmentally and financially. You literally are about to save my life with this and I am not kidding you, so you rock beyond words for real. TY🌹
Perfect video, thank you a lot 👍
Hi Zdeněk Eger
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Hi Morten, that's Cool!:) I have never had a Samsung Printer. But I have several HP Printers, Scanners and Combo units. And an Epson combo unit. A Laser Printer. Also, some older Serial Port Printers, in the Garage. All of which, are throwing errors of one type or another. I wonder if, any of them have this Resistor setup in them. One of these days, I need to check into that... I also have an HP Flatbed Scanner, that still works perfectly, it's 10 or 15 years old. And a Serial Port Flatbed Scanner, that only works up to Windows 98. I Worked perfectly when Parked, in the top of my closet... Don
Well if your stuff works,, there is no need for a fix,, but the day may come :-)
@@MyPlayHouse Yep, that day always arrives:) Don
Worked for me👍
Glad to hear it! I do like little hacks that saves me money;-)
2:25 If that recipe is dirty I need to buy another one?
I think you can empty it and clean it with an air compressor.
You should never expose the drum to light, it will shorten the life or damage the drum. Its like film, you need to work on it in low or no light.
Hi Scott Downey
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
❤❤❤❤❤
Hi @user-bq2vf6ld7w
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Danke :)
You’re welcome!
That imaging unit is light sensitive. You really don't want to expose it to direct sunlight.
I know,,, hard to show it to you much, but keep it in the dark...
It does not work for me, i've tried with a 50a fuse, and the only thing that it does is restarting the printer, i mean it starts, it says initialize then it restarts, and the fuse does not blow, i doubt that with a 56ohm that's equal to 56 amps it will start normaly, any tips for me in this case?
I do have a sugestion,, go to who ever leaned you anything about electronic and ask for ALL your money back!
I used a 56ohm resistance witch is like 1/4 watt,, so if the printer uses 5V this resistor would probably quit at 100-200mA,, if the voltages is higher the amperage is even lower,,, and you think it will blow a 50A fuse :-/
I've manage it to reset via Tech mode in the menu, full printer reset and counters reset, and cleaned the drum unit. Worked perfectly without having to use a resistor.
ma jen ta = magenta, s-eye ann = cyan :P
Thank You.
Samsung printers,.. i see them everywhere
Samsung printers was bought by HP so you will still see them everywhere in the future
I do not know anyone else that has one, before I bought mine.
Sad day.. :-/
Le devo un favore. Grazie grazie grazie.
HI Renzo Pedroia
My channel is English, and to make sure as many as possible, can also enjoy the comments, they are also English.
Please keep to English.
Thank you for watching! :-)
Im surprised that samsung would do this to there customers, its sabotage to get more money.
Rather than use a resistor, use a pozistor or thermistor or similar to allow the printer to see the value it expects for a few seconds.
When cool, the resistance is back to a new value.
Or a small bulb? lol
Or just burn a resistor,,, and be okay for years to come.. :-)
@@MyPlayHouse Yep that's true, i was trying to think of a proper fix for there sabotage.
Anti tage lol.
First
Matthew Landon is again awesome first!
I am on my phone,, sorry 😬
@@MyPlayHouse no worries
2nd xD
Hi Ahmed
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)