If it’s chemical and solvent free then the rags cannot spontaneously combust lol great video though we love odies oil for sure great stuff do a video on the odies oxi oil I wanna see what you all think about it?
Very interesting. Today is my first attempt. Having watched the Odie's video from the mfg (James) I am sure it is a learning process as to how much to use. I live at the Pacific Ocean. Can be cool and damp six months out of the year. How does that impact dry time? Table legs are a real challenge due to size of pace I am currently making. Thank you.
Why do you tell your customers to wait 20 days before exposure to water. The website says 4-5 days of curing is all that is needed for it to be waterproof, or am I missing something?
How does this compare to Tru-oil for the back of a guitar neck? I am hoping to: just add some hydration & slickness, but Retaining the smooth Satin finish. Any input is greatly appreciated.
If you wanted more sheen in your project, would you add another product of theirs in addition to the original oil or would you have to sand more? I hate sanding!
The finish holds up very well, it's actually designed for flooring! If you do need or want to re-apply it can be done on location, which is a fantastic feature!
They are called "finishing pads," 3M brand are Scotch Brite, Norton calls it Bear Tex, but they're all finishing pads. It's a synthetic non-woven alternative to steel wool. The red/maroon ones are somewhere between a 1 and a 0, gray ones are 00, white one you see here is a 0000. You should be able to find them at any hardware store near the sandpaper.
OK, so this may answer the question I've had for over a year now...how to use a hard wax oil on an epoxy river table when you want to sand the epoxy up to super fine (4000+) but are worried about the adhesion of the oil to the wood?? I've used both Odies and Rubio but have always been too scared about over sanding the wood, so the epoxy is always a little "duller/scratchier" than I want. Can I go ahead and sand everything (wood and epoxy) super fine and still have good results with Odies? Thanks!
I saw in one of Odies offical videos that you can sand as much as fine as you want. You may be interested in using the Odie's penetrating oil first and to then a coat of regular Odie's oil. They had a vid of a sapele table top sanded to 800 grit where he did the penetrating and then regular oil
I'm in the opposite boat. I've used Osmo, but not Odies. Being able to sand to any grit with Odies appeals to me since I do small projects often with highly figured wood. But it seems less user friendly than Osmo. You apply Osmo with a white pad like he did here, but without having to be soooo careful to remove every bit of excess. I just wipe it down with a shop towel when done with the white pad - no 45 minute wait time. And I can put my second coat on after the first had dried overnight - no 48 hour wait time. Sometimes I do the second coat with just a rag instead of the white pad. And I've cheated and gone up to 220 grit (I think 150 is the finest Osmo wants you to use - maybe 180?) Without any problems. After watching this, and considering the higher cost of Odies at the vendor I just visited, I think I'll stick with Osmo.
T D Hey there, Avid Odie’s Oil user and representative for the product. Just wanted to give you a little more details on Odie’s and why it works they way it does! The reason why you can sand to any grit is because Odie’s is a true penetrating hard wax oil that molecularly bonds to the cellulose fibres of the wood, also no need for sanding between coats. This is because it contains zero hardeners. When a finish contains hardeners, it needs a scratch pattern to grab on to for the next layer to bond. Odie’s does not build in layers as a film but rather cross links and builds upon itself with each coat. This is why it is important to remove any and all excess from the surface, the oil resides in the wood, not on it. This is an easy task, just buff it all off until you can’t leave a mark. This imo, is less fussy then having to be concerned if you got the right amount off or not. As for cost, if you look at the square footage coverage per volume of oil, Odie’s goes much further then osmo. One 9oz jar (266ml) of Odie’s will cover on average 180-220 sq feet on you typical domestic hardwoods like white oak, walnut and even further on more dense and exotic hardwoods, up to 400 square feet. Calculate the cost per square foot coverage and you will see the real value. Cheers!
@@ofearthfurniture - Wow, thanks for that info! I think that this more technical info should be advertised more. I think a lot of people (myself included) are / were under the impression that the Osmo and Odies are just different brands of similar products. I'll put Odies back on my list of things to try. 👍
Matt also in the same boat I have used Osmo in the past and it's a great product, but having now used the Odie's I would pick the Odie's in the future. There is a difference between the two in the final finish, and Odie's seems to have a more natural look when applied vs the Osmo. Either way I don't think you can go wrong. :)
well, looks very nice indeed but really should use gloves because no chemicals is misleading... nature is all about chemicals just not coming out of a refinery. always work safe
I'm from the US but I'm a HUGE fan of. Canada! Excellent Video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
It's so good to see you having fun infront of the camera again... God knows how much you love the camera😂 Well Done EveryBody!
Best vid I found on this and Im using the same wood so even better. Looking forward to finishing my slab this weekend
Good luck!
@@CanadianWoodworks it came out great haha thank you. Any recommendations for legs?
Glad to see you're back to your old self. Having fun while delivering good content. Stay with it please. Thanks. Rick.
Going to have to try Odie's Oil, Thanks for posting, Excited to see you back on line.
This is the video you have been looking for Paul. It works so follow this method from now on!! So good to see you having fun again!
many many thank you, your video helped me too much
Glad it helped
Used it... Loved it
Great to hear
Practise makes perfect......eh? Happy Canada Day ......hoping business is improving with every day.....
Awesome video guys good to see them coming back out
Great, funny way to learn, thanks
Thanks for the info Paul! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Great video and content! Love the graphics and music!😊
Great work sir
I'll have to try some - looks awesome
Used this product at a turning class at Black Forest in Calgary. Should have left it for 45 minutes, but did it ever make the cherry pop!
Good to hear, I really like this finish
How long will the finish last? Do you have to reapply the oil in the future?
If it’s chemical and solvent free then the rags cannot spontaneously combust lol great video though we love odies oil for sure great stuff do a video on the odies oxi oil I wanna see what you all think about it?
Read the MSDS sheet on Odie's Oil's site.......you'll be surprised and you really do need to wear gloves. Not just for the mess.
Yeah there is some nasty hazards on that page.
Very interesting. Today is my first attempt. Having watched the Odie's video from the mfg (James) I am sure it is a learning process as to how much to use. I live at the Pacific Ocean. Can be cool and damp six months out of the year. How does that impact dry time? Table legs are a real challenge due to size of pace I am currently making. Thank you.
Hi thanks for watching, drying time will be a bit longer in a cooler more humid enviroment
Why do you tell your customers to wait 20 days before exposure to water. The website says 4-5 days of curing is all that is needed for it to be waterproof, or am I missing something?
Scotch pads eh? I'm assuming they are the non-abrasive type? Thank for the video!
Depends on your sanding level, if going to 220 I use maroon pads, 400 - 500 grit gray pads, any higher white pads ( no grit )
Hi mate,
When would you use this as opposed to your usual Rubio Monocoat? Cheers,
True... that’s what I want to know
Is it necessary to do both sides for say a kitchen island?
Hi, Yes you always want to finish both sides of any piece of wood, even if a side will not be seen.
How does this compare to Tru-oil for the back of a guitar neck? I am hoping to: just add some hydration & slickness, but Retaining the smooth Satin finish. Any input is greatly appreciated.
I suggest testing it out, I do know it is a popular finish for instruments
@@CanadianWoodworks I decided to go with Tru-oil. Appreciate your input. oNe LovE from NYC
What do u put on the another side of the table?
We always finish both sides in the same matter.
Do I need to apply wood conditioner before applying Odie's Oil?
I've never used it, so I can't say if it helps or not.
I thought with the no VOCs and chemicals this stuff doesn't 'spontaneously combust'. Or is that just a general rule for all finishing oils?
General rule for finish, you have a liquid turning to a solid, which creates heat, so if balled up in a rag / towel fire can happeen
If you wanted more sheen in your project, would you add another product of theirs in addition to the original oil or would you have to sand more? I hate sanding!
As he stated, sand to a higher grit
Which Odie's would you recommend for rustic hickory? This is for baseboards and retaining the natural color. thanks
I'm liking Odies Super Duper
Can Odie’s be used on open grain wood like Mahogany? Also, can it be used with water-based grain filler?
Thank you!
HI, yes works great on Mahogany, sorry don't know the answer to the grain filler question.
How well does this hold up.
Do you have to reapply after time.
The finish holds up very well, it's actually designed for flooring! If you do need or want to re-apply it can be done on location, which is a fantastic feature!
@@CanadianWoodworks thank you for your reply. 😊
Great video. Do you know if I can use over Minwax oil stained, unfinished red oak?
Yes you can! Leave at least 72 for the Minwax to sure
Sand between the coats?
Typically use abralon or scotchbrite between coats
@@CanadianWoodworks thanks!
What kind of white scotch Brite pad I see so many options available on Amazon some with some roughing grit some with none completely smooth
might be a bit late to suggest something but for both Odie's and OSMO products It was recommended norton Bear-tex white pads 662610-58001.
They are called "finishing pads," 3M brand are Scotch Brite, Norton calls it Bear Tex, but they're all finishing pads. It's a synthetic non-woven alternative to steel wool. The red/maroon ones are somewhere between a 1 and a 0, gray ones are 00, white one you see here is a 0000. You should be able to find them at any hardware store near the sandpaper.
Hey is this good for a butcher block kitchen island I'm putting together
Yes for sure
OK, so this may answer the question I've had for over a year now...how to use a hard wax oil on an epoxy river table when you want to sand the epoxy up to super fine (4000+) but are worried about the adhesion of the oil to the wood?? I've used both Odies and Rubio but have always been too scared about over sanding the wood, so the epoxy is always a little "duller/scratchier" than I want. Can I go ahead and sand everything (wood and epoxy) super fine and still have good results with Odies? Thanks!
I saw in one of Odies offical videos that you can sand as much as fine as you want. You may be interested in using the Odie's penetrating oil first and to then a coat of regular Odie's oil. They had a vid of a sapele table top sanded to 800 grit where he did the penetrating and then regular oil
Yes, it's been done over sanding to 12k.
Between coats is there any sanding required? If so what grit do you use? Thank you!
No, do not sand
How about showing us what the finished table looks like, eh? ...For crying out loud!
I like Odies but have been wanting to try Osmo. Do you prefer Osmo or Odies?
I'm in the opposite boat. I've used Osmo, but not Odies. Being able to sand to any grit with Odies appeals to me since I do small projects often with highly figured wood. But it seems less user friendly than Osmo. You apply Osmo with a white pad like he did here, but without having to be soooo careful to remove every bit of excess. I just wipe it down with a shop towel when done with the white pad - no 45 minute wait time. And I can put my second coat on after the first had dried overnight - no 48 hour wait time. Sometimes I do the second coat with just a rag instead of the white pad. And I've cheated and gone up to 220 grit (I think 150 is the finest Osmo wants you to use - maybe 180?) Without any problems. After watching this, and considering the higher cost of Odies at the vendor I just visited, I think I'll stick with Osmo.
T D Hey there,
Avid Odie’s Oil user and representative for the product. Just wanted to give you a little more details on Odie’s and why it works they way it does! The reason why you can sand to any grit is because Odie’s is a true penetrating hard wax oil that molecularly bonds to the cellulose fibres of the wood, also no need for sanding between coats. This is because it contains zero hardeners. When a finish contains hardeners, it needs a scratch pattern to grab on to for the next layer to bond. Odie’s does not build in layers as a film but rather cross links and builds upon itself with each coat. This is why it is important to remove any and all excess from the surface, the oil resides in the wood, not on it. This is an easy task, just buff it all off until you can’t leave a mark. This imo, is less fussy then having to be concerned if you got the right amount off or not. As for cost, if you look at the square footage coverage per volume of oil, Odie’s goes much further then osmo. One 9oz jar (266ml) of Odie’s will cover on average 180-220 sq feet on you typical domestic hardwoods like white oak, walnut and even further on more dense and exotic hardwoods, up to 400 square feet. Calculate the cost per square foot coverage and you will see the real value. Cheers!
@@ofearthfurniture - Wow, thanks for that info! I think that this more technical info should be advertised more. I think a lot of people (myself included) are / were under the impression that the Osmo and Odies are just different brands of similar products. I'll put Odies back on my list of things to try. 👍
Matt also in the same boat I have used Osmo in the past and it's a great product, but having now used the Odie's I would pick the Odie's in the future. There is a difference between the two in the final finish, and Odie's seems to have a more natural look when applied vs the Osmo. Either way I don't think you can go wrong. :)
everything is walnut
well, looks very nice indeed but really should use gloves because no chemicals is misleading... nature is all about chemicals just not coming out of a refinery. always work safe
Step one…..Take out a re-mortgage on your property to purchase a jar.
Still cheaper than Rubio finish (for which you have to sell your kidneys).
LOL!
fact.....im triggered already lol