Eric, I so enjoyed this video, your down to earth, straight talk, and coupled with your genuine desire to make our viewing valuable. I typically get so sick of videos with cooky mechanics, bad language is their only language, and not taking a serious approach to their work - this isn't entertainment, it is knowledge transfer with a backdrop of enjoyment. Again, you have the right framework, personality, and best of all we all walk away feeling you gave us something worthwhile. THANKS!!!
Thank you very much for the kind words! Jarred (the producer) and I work hard to put out quality videos without fluff or wasted breathe so many others have. Data is important to people and that is what we provide! Stay tuned for episode two! Coming soon...
I have a 2022 Camaro ZL1 1LE as well. I have been looking for an informative video that will explain why I need to go with my gut. Which is 1 7/8ths Long tube headers with high flow cats, X pipe and Corsa Extreme mufflers. It's gonna be expensive...especially with a tune, but the with the HP gains and the sheer sound this car will be a force on the streets and will be heard from far far away! Thanks for being awesome and informative!
Man this made my day- glad you enjoyed it. The upcoming episodes will be even better- a lot of mods coming…more in depth engine mods- even a motor swap!!
@@floridahighperformance glad to see you guys live like an hour 30 minutes from PSL, cause I plan to buy a ZL1, definitely I will call you guys when the times come to see what my build up can be, I just follow you guys on IG too
So i finally got this done to my car. Stainless works all around. Rotofab and a tune. I got a great video of the tune. Im at 642hp and 694tq. On 9 lbs boost. I love it
Just found your channel. Awesome video! I just did my headers/exhaust on my 18 zl1 and as much as I heard it was a huge pain in the ass, I found the install very easy. I didn't use ARH, I used Kooks, but as you stated, the ease of install was worth paying extra.
Just joined , great job on the install, I have a 23 zl1 vivid orange called Angry orange! How long would it take for the average wrench twister to swap out to headers?
Great video I just hit the subscribe button. I’m a little lost I live in California and own the first 2650 6 generation manual transmission camaro. The Edelbrock 2300 was installed way back in late 2016. 4 years ago it was swapped out for the Edelbrock 2650 and I’m loving it ever since. 609/587 and all smog legal. Motor is all stock and 40k miles later all is flawless. that tiny 1.74 Liter is putting in some work I can’t even imagine the charge temps when it on the pavement.
Very cool. Temps were actually Not bad at all as we did not change the boost output yet. Once we start spinning it harder, then we will probably see temps start to rise under heavy load. We plan on upgrading the HX cooling system and other items along the way as well- and eventually will go 2650. Next episode is coming soon where we test stock vs ported LT4 blower with upper pulley.
I loved this! My recommendation is to always go with 1-7/8" headers. 2" headers often run into clearance issues. Even with the 1-7/8" headers you need to move the passenger side wire harness away (the one under the coolant reservoir) about 2-3 inches. If you don't your dash will go crazy when the wires start to melt and the car will start throwing random codes. 1-7/8" headers make great power and you don't sacrifice too much of your mid-range (for us track rats who need pop off the corners). I'll be adding American Racing headers to my car in the future.
Heyyy you sure were! I think that deserves a t shirt. Shoot me your contact info and I’ll get a swag pack out to you. We can also chat on the job and get you a quote! Sales@flhighperformance.com
Thank you Joe. More videos coming...testing ported vs stock blower, e85, and more. Some guy said I sounded like a "ricer"...LOL! Is that even a thing any more? Appreciate the kind words!
have a question on the bad punkin EP2, header installe,,, do you use anti-seiz on the header bolts going into the alum.heads? and on the spark plug threads ?
We are a small outfit- but produce high quality work and yes, we move a lot of cars. 15+ hour days- 7 days a week- and a relentless pursuit of perfection and customer satisfaction have led to this….it’s almost an obsession of mine…thanks for watching we appreciate it very much. Shoot me your address in an email I’ll send a shirt. Sales@flhighperformance.COM -Erik
Awesome. I have an 18 Zl1 1lE. With a stainless works cat back exhaust. I think I’m gonna go down this same route, but I can’t change out my cat back. I think I just need to lead pipes from the headers.
Cool- thanks for watching. Your best bet would either to be buy headers by themselves and have some connection pipes fabricated, OR buy the ARH intermediate system they offer and adapt that to your catback. Message me if you need assistance sales@flhighperformance.com
@@floridahighperformance awesome sir thank you so much for the advice. I will definitely be picking up some ARH Headers and the connection pipes and will message you when need be. Thanks and good luck with the car. 💪🏻
Thanks for checking us out. Headers may affect back pressure, which can affect boost, but it's minimal. Nothing a pulley can't fix! Increase as you saw in this video wasn't crazy, but gains are gains.
Sweet clip bro, mine baselined before boltons at 530whp. Putting down 640whp conservative with 2.9whipple, tune, rotofab, no cats and headers on 93 octane.
Careful with these. I bought a 2022 ZL1 on Nov 5. It's currently sitting in a GM shop for the 4th week now getting a complete motor replacement, car has 4,956 miles on it.
Man sorry to hear. It is true- so folks every now and the get a dud engine. Im very very clear when people drop their cars off that these mass produced engines can fail- albeit rare. Wishing you the best of luck!
@@floridahighperformance Yeah, the LT-4 is hand crafted though, it isn't mass produced. Either way, GM is just going down hill, I bought a brand new equinox back in 2014 and the transmission in it died after 50k miles and needed to be replaced. I'll never buy a GM vehicle again in my life now.
@@Trignama1 well, mass produced in the sense that they’re not balanced and blueprinted like a custom engine would be from day Late Model Engines- with the most premium parts available. The LT main and rod bearings are junk- I don’t care who assembles it and how meticulous they are. Best of luck man! Still a great car….
So few people understand what horsepower is. Horse power is how much work and engine can do. Torque is the rotational force it produces. You are correct in that torque is what's going to push the car down the road. But it's where the torque is that matters. It's not the crank torque, it's the wheel torque. At any given speed you want the highest torque at the wheel. This is achieved through gearing. An engine that produces half the torque but at twice the RPM produces equal torque at the wheel at the same speed through gearing. Horsepower is simply a mathematical calculation based on torque versus RPM. A higher horsepower motor will produce higher wheel torque through lower gears than a lower horsepower but higher torque motor. For instance, if you have an 1800 horsepower jet turbine engine that produces only 286 ft pounds of torque at 33,000 rpm, if you gear down the rotational speed to 5,000 RPM the torque will be 1,890-foot pounds.
@@SwingingVoter can’t tell if you are being sarcastic or not, I will though, as one can covert between them easily. In your analogy, voltage would be rpm.
ARH catted systems work well, but do have their limitations. Above 800 RWHP, the cats can fail. They're not as high quality as the "green cats" from Kooks, from what I understand. They're plenty safe though for any engine, and I have NEVER in my years had a set of ARH cats fail, even above 800. I hope this helps...
I have not yet messed with the 3.0. Every time I call Whipple, they cannot provide an ETA on those things. Meanwhile Magnuson is KILLING it with their 2650 - so that is what we go with. Thing works, plain and simple. That being said, larger blower and FBO on 93 octane, say 15 lbs of boost should add 200 RWHP or so to your set up.
Those are REALLY good baseline numbers, they're usually in the 525 range. I have a 1LE as well, it has a AWE exhaust and that's it, kinda starting to get the itch to do headers/intake/cam.
You think so? I baseline numerous LT4 cars, auto and manual and they're all around 550-570 rwhp/tq. Never had one as low as you say. Either way, gains are gains...whether you baseline at 300, 500, or 5000 RWHP...if you pick up power and tq over that baseline you are good to go! Let me know if I can help in any way! - Erik
Great video, probably the longest I've watched on UA-cam lol. Is it possible to make around 850whp with a 2650 and supporting mods on just 93? I dont wanna go meth or E85 and trying to avoid the whole ice tank for cooling if possible.
Thank you- more vids coming on this build. Did you see episode 2? 850 rwhp on 93 alone is not advised- not enough octane. I made 770 yesterday on a zl1 with 93 only…no meth…no E…no cooling mods. Video drops soon…we test a kong X port to the factory blower
Thanks for the subscription! Good question glad you asked. We will be testing this in a future episode. Our custom LT4 camshaft grind complements the supercharger and actually should do a good job of keeping boost pressure in the cylinder and retaining a lot of the low end torque she makes now. We also will change the pulleys configuration to adjust for the increase in airflow from the camshaft. So, any losses from the camshaft should be negated or limited by the increase in boost. I do expect a huge jump in horsepower- that’s for sure. Right now the HP and TQ are pretty lopsided because of poor efficiency.
@@oldschool6268 there’s actually quite a bit of room to grow- especially if you port it. Where I see it suffer is on larger displacement engines. It just doesn’t move the air.
Hi Eric, I’m interested in buying everything in need from you to make my 2019 ZL1 the same as bad pumpkin. I’m in Australia, can you remote tune it? Thanks. Anthony.
Thanks for the kind words. So my Corsa mufflers have the NPP valve provisions- I simply swapped the valve motors from stock exhaust to the new mufflers- and they function the same. Closed when I want them to be and open when I want them to be. Some exhaust systems do not have the valve provisions, so you lose the adjustability. You basically plug the motors in and secure them up under the bumper
@Florida High Performance Thanks for the reassurance of loving it. My first Chevy. Just couldn't pass up a 6.2 L Supercharged engine before they go away. Good to know about software, thanks.
Nice video, and self explained. Congrats. I have a 2021 1SS 1LE, can I make same changes on it and at the end have approximately the same gains on HP & PFT? Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it Angel. That’s my goal- to provide accurate and unbiased info so that folks can make more informed decisions. Yes you can expect the same results- depending on tuning of course and weather conditions/altitude/etc. any questions feel free to reach out!
You will NOT have the same gains, a boosted engine will always gain way more power from headers than NA. More air pumped thru a boosted car so more going thru with opens headers. Either this shop misunderstand you or they are going after your money.
@@carguy... you are correct- I actually completely missed that it was NOT a ZL1…my bad on that. Boosted applications will make more than NA no doubt, again sorry I missed the fact that he had an NA car. Thanks for catching that!!
What is the issue with different brands mid pipes and axle back not working together? Hard to see what was the issue in the video. I’m hoping to make stainless works muffler fit my borla mid pipe. Any advice or do you think that will work? Thanks
Usually diameter...and bends. OEM is smaller than most AM systems...so the whole slip together thing works well. When you try to add TWO AM systems like Corsa and ARH mid pipe, both of which are 3", they have to be welded together or expanded to slip over...I just butt welded it and its been fine since...works like a charm.
Do you have a video or sound byte after the headers and tune? I am planning to add headers to my 22 ZL1 and am trying to decide if that is enough or if I also need a cam (for sound)
I have a 17 and thinking about going this route for first set of mods along with some e; how important do you think a good coating like jet hot is to manage heat with these cars that already struggle with heat dissipation
It’s a great place to start. Coating the headers will help to reduce radiant heat, for sure. It won’t make much of a difference with respect to MATs or IATs…to be honest. That’s more of a heat exchanger/cooling system deal. None the less- I highly recommend to clients that, at a minimum, they ceramic coat their headers. I prefer silver ceramic…like what JetHot offers. Not a fan of BLACK coatings or Cerkoat…never had good luck with either of those.
Wow! I am seriously considering the ZL1 after selling my S4. QQ, if you lean out the fuel like you said, does that improve fuel economy? That isn't my main concern just curious.
No, when we lean it out, we it's just to perfect the AFR at wide open throttle...so mileage really doesn't change much...cause you're still flooring it around town LOL...
The roto fab big gulp didn't gain for me.. Swaped it out on a 800hp car thinking it would gain over the 4'', gained 2 hp is all. Paid for a returned and got shit. Took it off and sent it back. Rotofab was shocked it didn't gain. Lol I'm sure they were. I was disappointed because not only pay for a re tune, but a re stock fee as well. All for nothing. Great video.
Good info. That’s really the purpose of this series- to test items like that. I don’t doubt that some items will shine and other won’t- I guess it all depends on the set up. I figure why not test these popular products and just put it out there you know? That way people can make informed decisions when purchasing these products….thanks for watching and thanks for your input.
Let me know I’ll get ya a good price… Stock plugs would be just fine for your SS. Once you go boost you can change the plugs. I use stock plugs on any naturally aspirated stuff…
@@floridahighperformance looking forward to it! I’d be interested in a relatively conservative and reliable 93 pump tune with a Magnasun 2650 and supporting mods
@@ANMIV517 it’s simple, really. Install the 2650, determine appropriate pulley combo and tune on 93. With or without supporting mods, it will work well.
I have no plans to run this car in the 1/4. It’s not built for that. I may log from draggy times after the heads/cam are swapped, and eventually when the new 427 engine and 2650 are installed
@@kanervatie To get the most flow, which will compliment an aftermarket camshaft, longtube headers and ported cylinder heads are always recommended. Technically, no, you can install a camshaft with stock exhaust manifolds and cylinder heads...you'll just be limiting max output...that's all.
Hell yeah better believe it. Funny I have an LME 426 Gen 3 here with a 3.0 whipple sitting atop waiting to be stabbed into my dads 67 GTX. Good luck on the charger build- sounds wicked.
@Florida High Performance your doing a build.inwanted to do forever. GTX is one of my favorite Mopars. 68 through 71. I just want a roller body of one honestly cause I want to turn it into a big tire car and throw a procharged hemi under the hood. I figure I'll have to hit up Forza tuning and Performance for their 2500hp waterjacketed Hemi for that if I'm ever able to find a car like that. That gonna be a sick GTX though for real.
I'm adding the ngk 6510 I'm pushing 13.5 lbs. What gap do you recommend? Looking forward to your videos. A friend who also has a zl1 told me about your channel. Gave you a like and a sub.
@@floridahighperformanceI'm familiar with the Ford stuff that is a really tight gap for 13 psi. On the older gt500s with bolt ons in the 550 rwhp are around 13 psi they're usually .030-.032 range and my 2650 setup now is at .026 at 19 psi and that seems to be the norm. Why do these cars like so much closer gap? That's odd but cool to see the differences between different models and platforms.
They’re not. They’re tighter than snot. They’re HD straps provided with the dyno from dynojet and have some flex to them…I actually prefer the vehicle to move slightly forward on the roller during a pull for better traction
Now do the pulls with the hood closed to see if that Rotofab is pulling in hot air and robbing you of hp. The stock enclosed box with a low restriction filter will do better.
That's incredible. 90ft lbs is cam or high octane gas levels torque. It also means this car was bottle necked from the factory, but why? If emissions are better leaned out then I don't get it. On a road course I would love to know engine temps after these mods? Because GM might have a long running optimal temperature goal? Remember, this motor is stock with no extra boost.
More boost without improving air flow through the engine will result in greater work on the part of the supercharger which yields massive amounts of torque. Efficiency suffers but the seat of the pants goes through the roof- so on a street car it meets most customers wants and needs out of their weekend street car. Temps are no greater than they were stock…at least on my build they’re not. I attribute this to properly bleeding the HX system.
@@Highlander1432 they reduce the back pressure on the exhaust stroke that the engine (and supercharger) have to work against. I’ve tested with and without headers- and at most have maybe seen .5-1 PSI lost- or less. It’s negligible. What we gain is scavenging - which means better flow when you are spinning the supercharger faster than it does with stock pulley configuration
@@Highlander1432 we are still incredibly inefficient with stock heads and cam- I meant to add that in my previous reply . I’ll prove this when we add a cam and heads in the next episode
Dyno is a tool we use to measure our progress through the tuning progress. I could give a shit about numbers. Track times, MPH and seat of the pants mean more to me than anything. I had a Mustang dyno for 10 years...read lower than my DJ...who cares, cars were still fast a shit and performed as expected. If you wanna stand at a car show and brag to your buddies about your dyno sheet, then you are in it for the wrong reasons.
Hello Jonas! 550? Are you referring to the baseline horsepower? The LT4 is rated at 650 crank (flywheel) Hp. They baseline at the wheels 550-570….on avg in the manual
Baseline was on a modded car- mild mods I know- but skewed none the less. I agree it’s nothing to write home About- but I’d say my baseline was 10-15 more than avg….either way it’s all for testing purposes
Yes he is. No- he’s very much alive. We’ve not had any issues working with Matt. This is a tough business to be in- you tune 1000 cars successfully no one gives a shit- one breaks and you are notorious for over tuning and blowing shit up. Too bad. Thanks for checking the video out.
I see you're using STD 5 smoothing. SAE 5 is more acurate to real power numbers. Since you profess to be no BS what your using is inflated numbers. Don't take my word for it. There are plenty of reliable sources to support my claim.
Just how we have it set up I can show uncorrected- corrected- sae- std- whatever. So long as the baseline and final are the same settings my gains are relative.
Hey David- thanks for checking out the video. You know, can’t say I disagree with you. Entry level mods on these cars aren’t cheap if you go with quality parts. The cost of tuning is also up there. I guess the torque is really what adds the seat of the pants feel to this car with bolt ons…not the HP. I never really cared about HP on a street car- torque was always what I was after as it’s technically what moves the vehicle from point a to b. Fortunately, as you will see in episode 2, the gains vs cost actually are way in our favor- so it makes up for the initial gain vs cost ratio on episode 1. Thanks for your input!
There is alot more to this than peak power. You didn't notice the torque gain? What about the gains across the entire curve? Not to mention how much better it will sound. Don't underestimate the different headers make. They're needed to get the most out of any combo stock or otherwise.
Not to mention it makes that power at a lower boost level. It's a far more efficient setup. Just looking at peak to peak hp gain only tells a fraction of the story.
Thank you for your input. It's hard - I have so much knowledge to share and really wanna help people. I could slap these videos together...or better yet, keep it to myself, hoard the knowledge and not GAS about anyone else. Not my style. I am here to leave a mark on this business...and I will do that by putting out content for the masses for decades to come. I do appreciate your comment though and will try to streamline things where it can be done! Erik
You lost me when you said those shit graphite gaskets are high quality, lol. Those are the absolute worst, they blow out and leak either immediately or very soon after. Then your contradict yourself and say that you need to spend the money and buy the expensive headers because of the fitment and then 2 seconds later you explain that you had to modify a bunch of shit on the passenger side, unbolting motor mounts and removing crap to get them to fit,.
Never had an issue with ARH gaskets specifically. I agree, in general the graphite stuff is junk- I typically use MLS like the stock gaskets. The OEM Gen V LT exhaust manifold gaskets aren’t like the LS gaskets- they’re thin and can cause issues sealing. I’ve not had a single ARH header gasket blow out- ever- in 20 years. Ever. Have I had others give me issues? Yes absolutely. As stated previously, when I can I use GM style MLS- no doubt. But- this application works best with what’s included in the kit. With regard to “contradiction” in the video…you missed the point. I never said you don’t have to move things around to install these (or other) headers. 2” primary longtubes are tight on the passenger side of these 6th gens. What I’m referring to is once they’re installed having issues with clearance…like the steering shaft on the DS. A lot of headers hit that shaft once they’re bolted in. These don’t, nor do they contact anything on the PS (once they’re installed). Having to move parts around to install another part has no bearing on their quality. Thank you for checking out the video and your comment.
If you watch the video you would see he replaced the headers and car already had corsa x pipe and cat back exhaust. Hard to see when your head in your *&% though. Derrrr
Eric, I so enjoyed this video, your down to earth, straight talk, and coupled with your genuine desire to make our viewing valuable. I typically get so sick of videos with cooky mechanics, bad language is their only language, and not taking a serious approach to their work - this isn't entertainment, it is knowledge transfer with a backdrop of enjoyment. Again, you have the right framework, personality, and best of all we all walk away feeling you gave us something worthwhile. THANKS!!!
Thank you very much for the kind words! Jarred (the producer) and I work hard to put out quality videos without fluff or wasted breathe so many others have. Data is important to people and that is what we provide! Stay tuned for episode two! Coming soon...
Just saw this, as a ZL1/1LE owner - well executed video that is full of detail and on point.
Thanks so much for the compliment- I appreciate it - check our episode 2. 3 is in the works.
I have a 2022 Camaro ZL1 1LE as well. I have been looking for an informative video that will explain why I need to go with my gut. Which is 1 7/8ths Long tube headers with high flow cats, X pipe and Corsa Extreme mufflers. It's gonna be expensive...especially with a tune, but the with the HP gains and the sheer sound this car will be a force on the streets and will be heard from far far away! Thanks for being awesome and informative!
You are welcome, if you need anything hit me up! Erik
Really digging the attention to detail and pride in your craft👌🏼 Godspeed with your success!
~🇺🇸💪🏼☮️~
Thanks- it’s all I know. No one is perfect- but I sure as hell try to be.
I truly enjoyed every minute of this video, well done guys 🔥🔥👍🏾🏎️
Man this made my day- glad you enjoyed it. The upcoming episodes will be even better- a lot of mods coming…more in depth engine mods- even a motor swap!!
@@floridahighperformance glad to see you guys live like an hour 30 minutes from PSL, cause I plan to buy a ZL1, definitely I will call you guys when the times come to see what my build up can be, I just follow you guys on IG too
@@gsheverything_2716 we will be here when you’re ready!
@@floridahighperformance yes sir 🔥🏎️
Such a great video!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to walk through everything. Your explanations & comments add so much value. Sub earned!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for a very good informative video , you have earned my sub, keep it coming
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it...more to come from this build and others.
So i finally got this done to my car. Stainless works all around. Rotofab and a tune. I got a great video of the tune. Im at 642hp and 694tq. On 9 lbs boost. I love it
Awesome glad you're enjoying it!
Is your video posted online anywhere? I purchased the Stainless Work exhaust and headers but haven't installed them yet and tips on the install?
Just found your channel. Awesome video! I just did my headers/exhaust on my 18 zl1 and as much as I heard it was a huge pain in the ass, I found the install very easy. I didn't use ARH, I used Kooks, but as you stated, the ease of install was worth paying extra.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video and clearly explained. I love your car and it sounds awesome!
Thanks Roger
Just joined , great job on the install, I have a 23 zl1 vivid orange called Angry orange! How long would it take for the average wrench twister to swap out to headers?
Awesome...beautiful color. FIrst time doing it...5-6 hours I would say. Maybe a hair more.
Great video I just hit the subscribe button. I’m a little lost I live in California and own the first 2650 6 generation manual transmission camaro. The Edelbrock 2300 was installed way back in late 2016. 4 years ago it was swapped out for the Edelbrock 2650 and I’m loving it ever since. 609/587 and all smog legal. Motor is all stock and 40k miles later all is flawless. that tiny 1.74 Liter is putting in some work I can’t even imagine the charge temps when it on the pavement.
Very cool. Temps were actually
Not bad at all as we did not change the boost output yet. Once we start spinning it harder, then we will probably see temps start to rise under heavy load. We plan on upgrading the HX cooling system and other items along the way as well- and eventually will go 2650. Next episode is coming soon where we test stock vs ported LT4 blower with upper pulley.
I loved this! My recommendation is to always go with 1-7/8" headers. 2" headers often run into clearance issues. Even with the 1-7/8" headers you need to move the passenger side wire harness away (the one under the coolant reservoir) about 2-3 inches. If you don't your dash will go crazy when the wires start to melt and the car will start throwing random codes. 1-7/8" headers make great power and you don't sacrifice too much of your mid-range (for us track rats who need pop off the corners). I'll be adding American Racing headers to my car in the future.
Hey thanks for checking our video out and sharing your experience!
No, as long as you don't buy cheap headers. Stainless works 2". The fit is perfect...Zero touching
Great video like always 🔥 cant wait to see the car in person soon
Thanks bro
Nice! Torque is what you feel!
i was your 1000th subscriber💯
(i have a 2022 rapid blue camaro ss 1le and i’m looking to get headers and a tune installed as well)
Heyyy you sure were! I think that deserves a t shirt. Shoot me your contact info and I’ll get a swag pack out to you. We can also chat on the job and get you a quote!
Sales@flhighperformance.com
Great video, professional no bullshit, straight to the point, awesome job!!
Thank you Joe. More videos coming...testing ported vs stock blower, e85, and more. Some guy said I sounded like a "ricer"...LOL! Is that even a thing any more? Appreciate the kind words!
My graphite header gaskets from ARH leaked. You're the only one I've heard who prefers them over the multi layer.
Funny story...we no longer use them...few failures is all it took to switch back to COMETIC MLS...period. Live and learn!
Awesome video. Big gains in torque
Thanks for checking out the video. Episode 2 coming soon- stock blower vs ported blower and e85! Be sure to subscribe
How do these clutches handle this increase of 90 lb/ft?
Smooth as silk
have a question on the bad punkin EP2, header installe,,, do you use anti-seiz on the header bolts going into the alum.heads? and on the spark plug threads ?
small dab of AS on the plugs...and dab of blue loctite on header bolts....just a small amount you dont need a lot...
I watch every vid you post huge gm guy. Seems like you guys get a lot of cars done for a “small” shop?
We are a small outfit- but produce high quality work and yes, we move a lot of cars. 15+ hour days- 7 days a week- and a relentless pursuit of perfection and customer satisfaction have led to this….it’s almost an obsession of mine…thanks for watching we appreciate it very much. Shoot me your address in an email I’ll send a shirt. Sales@flhighperformance.COM
-Erik
Awesome. I have an 18 Zl1 1lE. With a stainless works cat back exhaust. I think I’m gonna go down this same route, but I can’t change out my cat back. I think I just need to lead pipes from the headers.
Cool- thanks for watching. Your best bet would either to be buy headers by themselves and have some connection pipes fabricated, OR buy the ARH intermediate system they offer and adapt that to your catback. Message me if you need assistance sales@flhighperformance.com
@@floridahighperformance awesome sir thank you so much for the advice. I will definitely be picking up some ARH Headers and the connection pipes and will message you when need be. Thanks and good luck with the car. 💪🏻
@@bluedog600 hit me up I’ll get ya free shipping
Great video
The headers actually lower boost but still increase overall power right ?
Thanks for checking us out. Headers may affect back pressure, which can affect boost, but it's minimal. Nothing a pulley can't fix! Increase as you saw in this video wasn't crazy, but gains are gains.
@@floridahighperformance
Thanks for replying to my post.
Really love the content y'all are putting out
Thanks
Sweet clip bro, mine baselined before boltons at 530whp. Putting down 640whp conservative with 2.9whipple, tune, rotofab, no cats and headers on 93 octane.
Killer- thanks for checking us out. Go watch episode 2 and see what we make on race gas…thing is crazy
Absolutely, where you guys located??
@@djs3484 Boca Raton FL
@@floridahighperformance I'm in Delray Beach. I'll see you there.
@@djs3484 def swing by and see us- grab a shirt
Careful with these. I bought a 2022 ZL1 on Nov 5. It's currently sitting in a GM shop for the 4th week now getting a complete motor replacement, car has 4,956 miles on it.
Man sorry to hear. It is true- so folks every now and the get a dud engine. Im very very clear when people drop their cars off that these mass produced engines can fail- albeit rare. Wishing you the best of luck!
@@floridahighperformance Yeah, the LT-4 is hand crafted though, it isn't mass produced. Either way, GM is just going down hill, I bought a brand new equinox back in 2014 and the transmission in it died after 50k miles and needed to be replaced. I'll never buy a GM vehicle again in my life now.
@@Trignama1 well, mass produced in the sense that they’re not balanced and blueprinted like a custom engine would be from day Late Model Engines- with the most premium parts available. The LT main and rod bearings are junk- I don’t care who assembles it and how meticulous they are. Best of luck man! Still a great car….
@@floridahighperformance funny you say that, because that is EXACTLY what gave out, the rod bearings.
@@Trignama1 rods and mains- absolute shit. Had a ZR1 in here, 2019 LT5…killed itself on the dyno- same thing
So few people understand what horsepower is. Horse power is how much work and engine can do. Torque is the rotational force it produces. You are correct in that torque is what's going to push the car down the road. But it's where the torque is that matters. It's not the crank torque, it's the wheel torque. At any given speed you want the highest torque at the wheel. This is achieved through gearing. An engine that produces half the torque but at twice the RPM produces equal torque at the wheel at the same speed through gearing. Horsepower is simply a mathematical calculation based on torque versus RPM. A higher horsepower motor will produce higher wheel torque through lower gears than a lower horsepower but higher torque motor. For instance, if you have an 1800 horsepower jet turbine engine that produces only 286 ft pounds of torque at 33,000 rpm, if you gear down the rotational speed to 5,000 RPM the torque will be 1,890-foot pounds.
And torque is what impresses the ladies :)
Torque is amperage, horsepower is voltage.
@@SwingingVoterno. Hp is quite literally watts.
@@zacharysmith7872 you run with that Son 👍👌.
@@SwingingVoter can’t tell if you are being sarcastic or not, I will though, as one can covert between them easily. In your analogy, voltage would be rpm.
damn.. first time seeing an orange one.. if i would of bought mine new i would of got that color... but i found a low mile black one...
Black is mean af though….stay tuned episode 2 is dropping soon…massive massive gains coming
What mods you recommend to push The ZL1 to 700 from stock ??
Rotofab Big gulp, 103 TB, Ported LT4 blower, Headers, Aux Low side, Meth Injection, 9.1 lower 2.45 upper - that will get you damn close...
Great video
How are the ARH cat system with 1 7/8” headers
Are they the green style like kooks and safe for LT4 SC motors
ARH catted systems work well, but do have their limitations. Above 800 RWHP, the cats can fail. They're not as high quality as the "green cats" from Kooks, from what I understand. They're plenty safe though for any engine, and I have NEVER in my years had a set of ARH cats fail, even above 800. I hope this helps...
I have 2018 v3 considering the new 3.0l whipple , cold air intake and full exhaust how whp do you think it would be
I have not yet messed with the 3.0. Every time I call Whipple, they cannot provide an ETA on those things. Meanwhile Magnuson is KILLING it with their 2650 - so that is what we go with. Thing works, plain and simple. That being said, larger blower and FBO on 93 octane, say 15 lbs of boost should add 200 RWHP or so to your set up.
Ok thank you but doesn’t the whipple make more torque down low than the Magnuson
The Tune is everything😎
Other than proper install- which matters- I absolutely agree- tuning is everything on these things!!
@@floridahighperformance 😉
Awesome Video Eric! Love the Car!
Thanks! 👍
Those are REALLY good baseline numbers, they're usually in the 525 range. I have a 1LE as well, it has a AWE exhaust and that's it, kinda starting to get the itch to do headers/intake/cam.
You think so? I baseline numerous LT4 cars, auto and manual and they're all around 550-570 rwhp/tq. Never had one as low as you say. Either way, gains are gains...whether you baseline at 300, 500, or 5000 RWHP...if you pick up power and tq over that baseline you are good to go! Let me know if I can help in any way! - Erik
Mine baselined at 535hp and 550tq. However, I am in Denver. Altitude suffocates it!
I have that model too but it's 2018. Where do I go to modify my car just like yours?? Can you help?
Email me...I can help...
sales@flhighperformance.com
Did you have to modify the dipstick to get it back in?
No Sir
Great video, probably the longest I've watched on UA-cam lol. Is it possible to make around 850whp with a 2650 and supporting mods on just 93? I dont wanna go meth or E85 and trying to avoid the whole ice tank for cooling if possible.
Thank you- more vids coming on this build. Did you see episode 2? 850 rwhp on 93 alone is not advised- not enough octane. I made 770 yesterday on a zl1 with 93 only…no meth…no E…no cooling mods. Video drops soon…we test a kong X port to the factory blower
Subscribed ! One question only, If you installed a stage 3 or 4 cam on that set up would you lose all that low end toque?
Thanks for the subscription! Good question glad you asked. We will be testing this in a future episode. Our custom LT4 camshaft grind complements the supercharger and actually should do a good job of keeping boost pressure in the cylinder and retaining a lot of the low end torque she makes now. We also will change the pulleys configuration to adjust for the increase in airflow from the camshaft. So, any losses from the camshaft should be negated or limited by the increase in boost. I do expect a huge jump in horsepower- that’s for sure. Right now the HP and TQ are pretty lopsided because of poor efficiency.
My understanding of the 1740 supercharger is it's at its max on boost, anymore and it's just creating heat.
@@oldschool6268 there’s actually quite a bit of room to grow- especially if you port it. Where I see it suffer is on larger displacement engines. It just doesn’t move the air.
Does the American racing mufflers sound just as good as the CORSA mufflers?
Little deeper tone- and no provisions for the stock NPP exhaust valves with the ARH system
Hi Eric,
I’m interested in buying everything in need from you to make my 2019 ZL1 the same as bad pumpkin.
I’m in Australia, can you remote tune it?
Thanks. Anthony.
@@AnthonyFabris-c3i sure email me sales@flhighperformance.com
Wish u were n Charlotte NC. Question, what's the effect on the exhaust selector modes when you mod the exhaust? Is it just disabled? Thanks
Thanks for the kind words. So my Corsa mufflers have the NPP valve provisions- I simply swapped the valve motors from stock exhaust to the new mufflers- and they function the same. Closed when I want them to be and open when I want them to be. Some exhaust systems do not have the valve provisions, so you lose the adjustability. You basically plug the motors in and secure them up under the bumper
What wheels are under this car? And was the tire size same as 1LE wheels with 305 front and 325 back?
They were Variant Forged Xenons...20x10 20x11 all around. Came with the car. Looked really nice but I switched to Forgeline wheels...18's.
What clamps are you using from the header to x-pipe? Have you ever gotten a leak from there?
The clamps that come with ARH system. No leaks.
I'm taking delivery hopefully soon in a few months of a ZL1. What is used to tune these engines?
You’ll love it. We use HP Tuners software
@Florida High Performance
Thanks for the reassurance of loving it. My first Chevy. Just couldn't pass up a 6.2 L Supercharged engine before they go away.
Good to know about software, thanks.
Nice video, and self explained. Congrats. I have a 2021 1SS 1LE, can I make same changes on it and at the end have approximately the same gains on HP & PFT? Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it Angel. That’s my goal- to provide accurate and unbiased info so that folks can make more informed decisions. Yes you can expect the same results- depending on tuning of course and weather conditions/altitude/etc. any questions feel free to reach out!
@@floridahighperformance THANKS A LOT, AND APPRECIATE YOUR RESPOND. BLESSINGS!
You will NOT have the same gains, a boosted engine will always gain way more power from headers than NA. More air pumped thru a boosted car so more going thru with opens headers. Either this shop misunderstand you or they are going after your money.
@@carguy... you are correct- I actually completely missed that it was NOT a ZL1…my bad on that. Boosted applications will make more than NA no doubt, again sorry I missed the fact that he had an NA car. Thanks for catching that!!
@@floridahighperformance no problem!!!
What’s the ball park I’m looking at, to do something like this on my 2013 Camaro?
These bolt on packages start at like 5k parts labor tuning and can go up from there
Strong work my friend!
Thanks brother Appreciate that
What is the issue with different brands mid pipes and axle back not working together? Hard to see what was the issue in the video. I’m hoping to make stainless works muffler fit my borla mid pipe. Any advice or do you think that will work? Thanks
Usually diameter...and bends. OEM is smaller than most AM systems...so the whole slip together thing works well. When you try to add TWO AM systems like Corsa and ARH mid pipe, both of which are 3", they have to be welded together or expanded to slip over...I just butt welded it and its been fine since...works like a charm.
Great content 👍🏼
Thanks so much. heads cam episode three coming soon!
Do you have a video or sound byte after the headers and tune? I am planning to add headers to my 22 ZL1 and am trying to decide if that is enough or if I also need a cam (for sound)
Did you see the start up and idle clip in this video? If you need more I can get you another clip…
@@floridahighperformance I saw that, but would like to see another clip please if you have one.
@@KiwibeeTracy of course. Email me- I can send whatever ya want…car comes back from Detailer Monday
Sales@flhighperformance.com
Erik
I have a 17 and thinking about going this route for first set of mods along with some e; how important do you think a good coating like jet hot is to manage heat with these cars that already struggle with heat dissipation
It’s a great place to start. Coating the headers will help to reduce radiant heat, for sure. It won’t make much of a difference with respect to MATs or IATs…to be honest. That’s more of a heat exchanger/cooling system deal. None the less- I highly recommend to clients that, at a minimum, they ceramic coat their headers. I prefer silver ceramic…like what JetHot offers. Not a fan of BLACK coatings or Cerkoat…never had good luck with either of those.
When is the next bad punkn video coming out!?
Dyno testing is about complete…episode 2 should drop this month!
Wow! I am seriously considering the ZL1 after selling my S4. QQ, if you lean out the fuel like you said, does that improve fuel economy? That isn't my main concern just curious.
No, when we lean it out, we it's just to perfect the AFR at wide open throttle...so mileage really doesn't change much...cause you're still flooring it around town LOL...
The roto fab big gulp didn't gain for me.. Swaped it out on a 800hp car thinking it would gain over the 4'', gained 2 hp is all. Paid for a returned and got shit. Took it off and sent it back. Rotofab was shocked it didn't gain. Lol I'm sure they were. I was disappointed because not only pay for a re tune, but a re stock fee as well. All for nothing.
Great video.
Good info. That’s really the purpose of this series- to test items like that. I don’t doubt that some items will shine and other won’t- I guess it all depends on the set up. I figure why not test these popular products and just put it out there you know? That way people can make informed decisions when purchasing these products….thanks for watching and thanks for your input.
Great video, I’m looking to get these headers on my 2016 camaro SS. Would those NGK 6510 spark plugs work on my SS?
Let me know I’ll get ya a good price…
Stock plugs would be just fine for your SS. Once you go boost you can change the plugs. I use stock plugs on any naturally aspirated stuff…
@@floridahighperformance How much would the long system to stock npp be?
@@Cembruh please email me for a formal quote. Sales@flhighperformance.com
@@floridahighperformance I did!
@@Cembruh hmmm not sure if I saw it- try again today I’ll check my spam- or you can message me through the website
Can you make 800 whp on a stock engine while keeping the lt4 supercharger
And on e85
Absolutely….episode 2 coming soon….
very nice bro
Thank you so much 😀
Have you guys done any Magnuson 2650 builds with the LT4? I have a 22 6spd ZL1 that needs some love
Yes they work well- have 4-5 in the shop now. Bad punkn will also be getting a 2650
@@floridahighperformance would love to see some dynos
We will be posting several videos in the coming weeks...2650's will support well over 1000 rwhp with ease.
@@floridahighperformance looking forward to it! I’d be interested in a relatively conservative and reliable 93 pump tune with a Magnasun 2650 and supporting mods
@@ANMIV517 it’s simple, really. Install the 2650, determine appropriate pulley combo and tune on 93. With or without supporting mods, it will work well.
Any 1/4 mile times and mph?
I have no plans to run this car in the 1/4. It’s not built for that. I may log from draggy times after the heads/cam are swapped, and eventually when the new 427 engine and 2650 are installed
@@floridahighperformance would be curious to see what it runs with these light mods
@@camirocz the platform is horrendous for drag (1LE). If ya wanna drag- a standard ZL1 platform is the ticket for sure!
Is it true, you need headers when going with a aftermarket cam?
...or was it heads. Ok, can't remember. lol
@@kanervatie To get the most flow, which will compliment an aftermarket camshaft, longtube headers and ported cylinder heads are always recommended. Technically, no, you can install a camshaft with stock exhaust manifolds and cylinder heads...you'll just be limiting max output...that's all.
@@floridahighperformance Thank you for your reply.
@@kanervatie anytime- ask away
How much would a package like this cost
6k installed and tuned
Yeah gonna have that LME PowerPlant. Smart man. I drive a Charger and I'm about to get me a Gen3 Hemi 1800hp+ rated engine from LME myself
Hell yeah better believe it. Funny I have an LME 426 Gen 3 here with a 3.0 whipple sitting atop waiting to be stabbed into my dads 67 GTX. Good luck on the charger build- sounds wicked.
@Florida High Performance your doing a build.inwanted to do forever. GTX is one of my favorite Mopars. 68 through 71. I just want a roller body of one honestly cause I want to turn it into a big tire car and throw a procharged hemi under the hood. I figure I'll have to hit up Forza tuning and Performance for their 2500hp waterjacketed Hemi for that if I'm ever able to find a car like that. That gonna be a sick GTX though for real.
@@americanassassin001 Awesome!
What gap with more boost?
.020-.022 usually - or a colder plug if needed. Future episodes will discuss this.
I'm adding the ngk 6510 I'm pushing 13.5 lbs. What gap do you recommend?
Looking forward to your videos. A friend who also has a zl1 told me about your channel. Gave you a like and a sub.
@@mjc3502 .022
@@mjc3502 thank you I appreciate that!
@@floridahighperformanceI'm familiar with the Ford stuff that is a really tight gap for 13 psi. On the older gt500s with bolt ons in the 550 rwhp are around 13 psi they're usually .030-.032 range and my 2650 setup now is at .026 at 19 psi and that seems to be the norm. Why do these cars like so much closer gap? That's odd but cool to see the differences between different models and platforms.
Damn I have the exact same car on the Gulf Coast :D
Why are the dyno straps loose ?
They’re not. They’re tighter than snot. They’re HD straps provided with the dyno from dynojet and have some flex to them…I actually prefer the vehicle to move slightly forward on the roller during a pull for better traction
Now do the pulls with the hood closed to see if that Rotofab is pulling in hot air and robbing you of hp. The stock enclosed box with a low restriction filter will do better.
My concern is the shitty LT4 blower...not the RF...but what are you gunna do you know?
Have the same coloured 2019 ZL1 6 speed in Australia factory converted to Right Hand drive by HSV Completely stock
BUILD NO: 341/375
I would absolutely love to see that....send pics!
Nothing is better than factory. GM invested millions in engineering so pretty sure they put best of the best into the car .
Not even close...you apparently haven't driven a heat soaked 15/16 Z06 or worse yet...a new C8. TRASH.
That's incredible. 90ft lbs is cam or high octane gas levels torque. It also means this car was bottle necked from the factory, but why? If emissions are better leaned out then I don't get it. On a road course I would love to know engine temps after these mods? Because GM might have a long running optimal temperature goal? Remember, this motor is stock with no extra boost.
More boost without improving air flow through the engine will result in greater work on the part of the supercharger which yields massive amounts of torque. Efficiency suffers but the seat of the pants goes through the roof- so on a street car it meets most customers wants and needs out of their weekend street car. Temps are no greater than they were stock…at least on my build they’re not. I attribute this to properly bleeding the HX system.
Headers actually lower boost and give tuners a bit more wiggle room
@@Highlander1432 they reduce the back pressure on the exhaust stroke that the engine (and supercharger) have to work against. I’ve tested with and without headers- and at most have maybe seen .5-1 PSI lost- or less. It’s negligible. What we gain is scavenging - which means better flow when you are spinning the supercharger faster than it does with stock pulley configuration
@@Highlander1432 we are still incredibly inefficient with stock heads and cam- I meant to add that in my previous reply . I’ll prove this when we add a cam and heads in the next episode
@@floridahighperformance
Awesome
When do you upgrade injectors and fuel pumps ?
Too bad your so far from the Tampa area. I’d bring my Maggie 2650 ZL1 down for a tune.
Pretty sure this is my old car. They didn't make too many crush orange zl1 1les in 2019. And I put a corsa extreme on mine.
Bought it from a dealer in the Carolinas. She is in the best of hands...I am the ZL1 guy around here...what better to have this as the shop car!
Love it
Thank you for the kind words
Always go to a dynojet dyno shop if you want the most HP on paper.
Dyno is a tool we use to measure our progress through the tuning progress. I could give a shit about numbers. Track times, MPH and seat of the pants mean more to me than anything. I had a Mustang dyno for 10 years...read lower than my DJ...who cares, cars were still fast a shit and performed as expected. If you wanna stand at a car show and brag to your buddies about your dyno sheet, then you are in it for the wrong reasons.
So why do they say 650 for a stock zl1 if it’s not even close to 650 at stock!?
650 crank. Not wheel. We measure power at the wheels when we test
You really don't know the difference between crank and wheel hp? You must be new to all this lol
@@midnight347 you directing this message toward me?
That pinched filter will rob you of a lot of power. I didn't believe it until it happened to me.
Yeah got a new one on there…
@@floridahighperformance nice! You wouldn't think a kink like that would hurt - but it's a big deal.
Thanks for the response!
Why only 550hp? Shouldn't have it 660?
Greatings from Germany
Hello Jonas! 550? Are you referring to the baseline horsepower? The LT4 is rated at 650 crank (flywheel) Hp. They baseline at the wheels 550-570….on avg in the manual
nice
Thanks for watching!
22 HP gain seems a bit low for headers and tune.
Baseline was on a modded car- mild mods I know- but skewed none the less. I agree it’s nothing to write home
About- but I’d say my baseline was 10-15 more than avg….either way it’s all for testing purposes
Matt is still around? Heard he had died. Well, at least he's notorious for over tuning and blowing shit up so. But love this car.
Yes he is. No- he’s very much alive. We’ve not had any issues working with Matt. This is a tough business to be in- you tune 1000 cars successfully no one gives a shit- one breaks and you are notorious for over tuning and blowing shit up. Too bad. Thanks for checking the video out.
I put kooks 2" headers and corsa exhaust it made a 💩 load of torque LMP did my tuning
good deal!
Guessing that this wouldn’t pass emissions test?
Don’t know we don’t have them
Thanks. Apparently the Austin, Tx. Area requires them. 😔
@@KM_1983 too bad- come down to FL- we’d love to have ya and you can enjoy your race cars
@@floridahighperformance 😊
My car
I’m sorry but that car….😅Never mind 😇
I know its a bad mother fucker isn't it?
"DYNO TIME" no dyno shown
@@sirlemonhazee8419 what do you mean?
23hp!!!!! I've seen 25 from just an intake 😂😂😂😂😂😂
You da man!
I see you're using STD 5 smoothing. SAE 5 is more acurate to real power numbers. Since you profess to be no BS what your using is inflated numbers. Don't take my word for it. There are plenty of reliable sources to support my claim.
In the end though you still are able to show how much actual gain was there
Just how we have it set up
I can show uncorrected- corrected- sae- std- whatever. So long as the baseline and final are the same settings my gains are relative.
Understood...and that's why I added the second comment
@@BruceLee-sr2ld yes sir- thanks for checking it out and commenting- we always appreciate the interaction of our viewers
That’s a lot of money spent for 25~ hp
Hey David- thanks for checking out the video. You know, can’t say I disagree with you. Entry level mods on these cars aren’t cheap if you go with quality parts. The cost of tuning is also up there. I guess the torque is really what adds the seat of the pants feel to this car with bolt ons…not the HP. I never really cared about HP on a street car- torque was always what I was after as it’s technically what moves the vehicle from point a to b. Fortunately, as you will see in episode 2, the gains vs cost actually are way in our favor- so it makes up for the initial gain vs cost ratio on episode 1. Thanks for your input!
There is alot more to this than peak power. You didn't notice the torque gain? What about the gains across the entire curve? Not to mention how much better it will sound. Don't underestimate the different headers make. They're needed to get the most out of any combo stock or otherwise.
Not to mention it makes that power at a lower boost level. It's a far more efficient setup. Just looking at peak to peak hp gain only tells a fraction of the story.
The peak is down low then it tapers off, and that doesn’t change the fact that it’s a lot of money spent for what you get in return.
Mine spins anyways headers not needed then they will leak in 2000 miles. Tick tic tic tic.....
Yeah traction is always our enemy!
Only suggestion I would give is to trim the dialogue and reduce your video length. Get to it.....hit it and quit it.
Thank you for your input. It's hard - I have so much knowledge to share and really wanna help people. I could slap these videos together...or better yet, keep it to myself, hoard the knowledge and not GAS about anyone else. Not my style. I am here to leave a mark on this business...and I will do that by putting out content for the masses for decades to come. I do appreciate your comment though and will try to streamline things where it can be done!
Erik
🎶 p̶r̶o̶m̶o̶s̶m̶
Chinese crap? you mean like where that camera is made, you are shooting this video on
Nah this CAM is GOOD CHINESE CRAP
You lost me when you said those shit graphite gaskets are high quality, lol. Those are the absolute worst, they blow out and leak either immediately or very soon after. Then your contradict yourself and say that you need to spend the money and buy the expensive headers because of the fitment and then 2 seconds later you explain that you had to modify a bunch of shit on the passenger side, unbolting motor mounts and removing crap to get them to fit,.
Never had an issue with ARH gaskets specifically. I agree, in general the graphite stuff is junk- I typically use MLS like the stock gaskets. The OEM Gen V LT exhaust manifold gaskets aren’t like the LS gaskets- they’re thin and can cause issues sealing. I’ve not had a single ARH header gasket blow out- ever- in 20 years. Ever. Have I had others give me issues? Yes absolutely. As stated previously, when I can I use GM style MLS- no doubt. But- this application works best with what’s included in the kit.
With regard to “contradiction” in the video…you missed the point. I never said you don’t have to move things around to install these (or other) headers. 2” primary longtubes are tight on the passenger side of these 6th gens. What I’m referring to is once they’re installed having issues with clearance…like the steering shaft on the DS. A lot of headers hit that shaft once they’re bolted in. These don’t, nor do they contact anything on the PS (once they’re installed). Having to move parts around to install another part has no bearing on their quality. Thank you for checking out the video and your comment.
You replaced Corsa with American Racing? Smh. That is literally the dumbest thing I've seen done this far.
No, I added ARH headers and x pipe to my existing Corsa.
@@floridahighperformance that kid has no clue what he was talking about, got your back 🤘
@@ndweb101 lol it’s all good I could give a f…happy thanksgiving ✊
If you watch the video you would see he replaced the headers and car already had corsa x pipe and cat back exhaust. Hard to see when your head in your *&% though. Derrrr
@@floridahighperformance Super super super, corsa, corsa. Have a good friday jackass!
3k headers and 23whp doesn’t sit right with me. Buy a bmw m3 and download 190whp 🫠
Yeah but I have my dignity.