What is Dandyism? A talk with Leon Luchart, the New Editor-in-Chief of Parisian Gentleman.
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- In this new edition of Sartorial Talks, Hugo welcomes Leon Luchart, 24 years old, who was recently appointed editor-in-chief of the Parisian Gentleman blog.
In this episode, Hugo and Leon discuss the figure of the Dandy. Is Dandyism still alive in 2024? Who are the original dandies? Who was Beau Brummell? Oscar Wilde? Jules Barbey d'Aurevilly? Is it possible to embrace this lifestyle in the 21th century? What are the differences between elegance and dandyism?
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I think, different from both of you, that dandyism does still exist. I think that dandyism as an idea is fluid, not stuck in history. While I agree that dandyism is not an artist wearing boots and a shirt, I think dandyism has transitioned from Oscar Wilde to Cary Grant and the Hollywood icons, and now certain contemporary people - such as those featured in I am Dandy. I'm glad you mentioned it! It's a great book.
Modern dandies often don't accept some of those ideas of work being vulgar (although I personally don't work) and cold cynicism, but there is a common theme amongst dandies: revolt against mediocrity. Revolting against mediocrity via elegance in all aspects is a core aspect of dandyism in all of its iterations.
I suppose that seeing dandyism as a strict historical item is a way of looking at it, but my view is that the ideas and forms of dandies change as time goes on, but the core of it continues to exists. For me, I am a season subscriber of two opera companies and a ballet company; I swordfence, ballroom dance, and ride horses. At the very least, I give it my best.
I agree with you. By the hosts' logic, no one is really a Gentleman today, as that title was given to you, and you by and large did not work, but had others who worked for you. Attitudes carry on throughout history and we are not really as different as we like to think than those who lived in the 1700s-1800s.
@@canadafree2087 Indeed; thank you for your thoughts. I agree.
Agree 110%. Lucky you, in Greece there's only one opera company, though in a brand new, modern opera house in Athens.
Another masterclass in podcasts Hugo. I was literally glued from start to finish!
As soon as I saw the video title, I knew this was going to be good. The thing that turns me off Dandyism is the attitude of ‘work is vulgar.’ To quote Voltaire: ‘All men are good, except those who are idle. If you do not want to commit suicide, always have something to do.’
Can I also comment on how beautiful your green suit is Hugo, a great piece.
Leon is wonderful too - so good to hear from someone of my generation and it inspires me to continue the good fight. Thanks.
Thank you for your kind and encouraging words. My green suit is from Sartoria Ripense in Rome (with a vintage fabric, from the 1970s). All my best, Hugo
Thank you for these kind words !
The great Os. Wilde wrote "Be yourself, everyone else is already taken" ,thus literally encompassed his worldview. Merci à vous, MM. H. Jacomet & L. Luchart, it was a very insightful & eloquent session, comme d' habitude. 🇨🇦 🇬🇷 🇪🇺
Thank you very much !
Have heard this word many times but have now understood it's origin and meaning. Merci Hugo!!
Gents, today with us, multitalented Teddy Baldassarre😊.
Not sure I understand the joke, but I'm just French after all! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS he looks a lot like the watch UA-camr Teddy Baldasarre, I thought so too in the thumbnail. Maybe I need glasses haha!
Anyway, great video as always, always enjoy seeing your content Mr. Jacomet. Keep it up!
@@SARTORIALTALKS in the thumbnail, as a coincidence, Leon's face appears very much like Teddy B. I must admit I was also confused.
@@SARTORIALTALKS This young man looks very much like Teddy Baldassare, who is a youtube watch commentator.
@@bargaincollector2783 Haha, I understand now. I know Teddy (see here: ua-cam.com/video/iE9OxVWJotY/v-deo.html).
Thank you, another great talk. I love all revolutions against the spirit of this age. "Beauty will save the world".
Yes sir! It will save the world (with the help of the Lord). Cheers, Hugo
Thank you both!
What a great discussion. Thank you to all involved for your research & hard work on this subject. I really enjoyed it.
I’m delighted you enjoyed it !
The only thesis possibly more French would be one about railway strikes. Jokes aside, very interesting talk!
😂 Sounds fair !
Again, Hugo thak you for a great topic.................
I have been quietly watching as I'm writing four books this year, but had to pop in to comment. Another great video gentlemen! God bless you
The content is fascinating. Many thanks for that - and even more thanks for going to the considerable effort of doing this in a second language - this is something that should never be taken for granted
Great video as usual. What about Gabriele D'Annunzio?
I’m not a specialist, but you’re right, he is often considered as a great dandy !
Great history lesson! You always comment English is not your native language - i think you both speak better English than many native speakers. Leon was a very interesting guest and looking sharp!
Thank you so much !
That quote by Glenn O'Brien was very interesting (at 21:26) . Thanks for sharing.
Glenn O'Brien was a great writer for sure. Yours, Hugo
That quote is the cherry on top of a great video 🤩🤩🤩; I actually remember it having caught my eye when I read "I am Dandy" . 😉😊
I have enjoyed your channel (and blog) through the years, but this particular edition of Sartorial Talks has probably been the most interesting. Thank you.
That's very kind of you. Thank you for your loyalty. All my best, Hugo
This is very kind of you, thanks ! Léon
Topic is apropos. Very enlightening. Nowadays, the term dandy is used in a more positive light, unlike when the term was coined centuries ago...perhaps because most of us do not know of dandy's true definition. Its always good to know what one is talking about. Kudos to hugo and the leon for hitting the nail on its head.
Good video! Some corrections on Oscar Wilde if you will permit: He wasn't openly gay - he sued the Marquess of Queensbury (the father of his lover) for libel for suggesting it. He lost and was then put on trial and convicted of 'Gross indecency and homosexual acts'. Prison broke him mentally, physically and financially as his plays were no longer being performed. He did die in poverty in Paris but it was as a result of his persecution and exile, not from spending too much money on clothes and high living.
One thing to note about UK law is that some laws are never actually repealed. There’s laws several centuries old that people don’t know is still in use today. Some lawyers have got people off using centuries old by-laws, So that story about not being able to arrest someone after a certain time might actually still be in play 😉
Greetings from the other side of the world.(Bangladesh).I am really happy to follow your channel for all the great information. I believe, not sure that the composer Erik Satie Also had "Dandiesque" ideologies. I bring him up because as Cellist /Musician that is the first place I heard about this movement .
Anyways thank you for sharing.
Merci Beaucoup
Which maker suit does Leon wear? It’s absolutely lovely!
Thanks guys, excellent and informative video!
Leon makes me think of the sartorial version of Teddy Baldassarre.
Facinating! Wonderful! To define 'Dandyism' in such clear defined ways is revealing and helps us stand back and see the notion of moving against the stream/fighting against mediocrity and rejecting mass absorption...hard for my brain to digest, but, thank you for making this so engaging and enjoyable.
Leon: congratulations :-)
I thought of a person who could be a modern 'Dandy', although he sadly passed in 2016. I thought of the artist Prince Rogers Nelson - could he be described as a modern Dandy?
Anyway, thanks/merci
Tony
I consider myself a dandy. For myself, the modern Oscar Wilde, was Quentin Crisp. This quote Monsieur reads towards the end of this video, perhaps sums up the attitude of dandyism (also perhaps why it was born in Britain). The elegance even in poverty, the working class person using the suit (the ultimately weapon in society) with the acutrements and flourishes of not the middle class but the aristocracy as a form of ingroup social rebellion, without the aggression of something that could smell of revolution. For me Crisp's life also represented a very dandyfied existence. Further, two quick other examples, the flamboyance and philosophy of Sebastian Horsley (very much of a traditional dandy life of debt and death, but a masterpiece nevertheless) and, perhaps, especially with his attitude for provocation and his references to Baudelaire and Against Nature (the book, A Rebour en francais peut-etre?) is Mr. Gainsbourg. Who I would think is a kind of post-modernist dandy in some ways. Finally, the SAPEURS of Congo are contemporary dandies in this wider historical understanding I would suggest. Thankyou (Merci) for reading.
Leon is also very handsome and classy. ❤🙈
Léon Luchart's english is excellent. Congratulations. If I had to identify a modern-day dandy, I might think of Nick Foulkes.
This is very motivating, thank you !
Hello Hugo, thank you for a great show! I have been trying to get your book on Shoes, English version, but it’s been impossible. Where can I get my hands on one? Merci!
an Educational episode ❤
Thank you very much! Hugo
Hi Hugo
In response ‘dandyism’ or the ‘modern day dandy’ I expect does still exist.
Perhaps not as it was thought of ‘back in the day’
I think of Chris Eubank Sr.
He is a well known British professional boxer , his career spanned from 1985-1998
He is a snazzy dandy dresser then and still is today.
😃😃😃👍 👍 🇬🇧🇬🇧❤️❤️🏴🏴
Incredibly interesting topic to which Leon does great justice. I am a little surprised, though, why Mr Luchart, who is both French and clearly extremely learned (and so one would have thought acutely sensitive to genealogy), is so insistent on rigidly holding on to an anachronistic definition of "dandyism" in our era. Why the resistance to allowing the concept to evolve to the times of the 2020s - evolution is simply the nature of words and concepts. I don't mean this as a personal criticism, but it seems by seeking to reject being referred to as "dandy" according to the emergent contemporary definition of the concept (which none of us within the "sartorial world" have much control over), one is actually somewhat defensively and desperately (not to mention ironically) clambering to hold onto a long-lost past. Words and concepts change - being a "dandy" today in most people's minds does not bear the objectionable arrogant pretence it once did, so there is no need to be defensive about it, in the sense of rejecting the "arrogance" part, anyway. The only connotations connected to "dandyism" I'm personally less keen on are perhaps vanity or being self-consumed which, as someone who connects "elegance" with being "natural" and "understated" is a bit on the nose. One further point: in my view some key aspects of elegance include - outside of relevant intellectual contexts - avoiding being defensive wherever possible and also avoiding correcting other peoples' misuse of words, the latter of which is, in particular, almost always socially abrasive, if not pretentious. All best, B.
I think I remember reading somewhere about a French dandy from 19th century who walked his pet lobster around on a leash through the streets of Paris.
Hahaha I didn't know about this one! Cheers, Hugo
Hello, excelent videos! You any thoughts about african dandy? That phenomenon occurs in Congo i think. Very interesting. Saludos desde Costa Rica!
At work I’m considered a dandy. I don’t know if that’s true but I enjoy nice clothes and have never tried to guell people thinking that way. However, in the USA anyone not wearing tee shirts, hoodies, sweat paints, joggers, jeans and sneakers is considered a dandy.
Leon: Dandies are strange, dark, weird, bankrupt. Don't try this at home kids.
Hugo: Dandyism, in moderation, can save the world.
Could Harry Styles exemplify a contemporaneous(as opposed to classical) interpretation of the dandy aesthetic? They were aesthetes?
A Dandy is someone whose lapels are wider than their sleeves :-)
Then, we are legion my friend!
I admit I didn’t know the full meaning of the word dandy, but I think today it’s both more needed and easier than before. Let’s be honest; most people today both dress and look like shit. They worship comfort as their god and that’s exactly what both their clothes and their bodies look like. So as a modern dandy, one should both dress well as well as work out and eat healthy to stand out from the herd. Which shouldn’t be difficult, since as one of my friends says: “The bar today is so low it’s practically on the ground.” Wear anything other than jeans and a hoodie and have a healthy body fat percentage and you already look better than most people around you.
A revolt against mediocrity. Love it. Will consider myself a dandy from now on.
Haha, yes my friend! Cheers, Hugo
The personal revolt against mediocrity has never been easier nor the esprit de corps of the circles that do it higher.
We have a singular moment in time where we can set new standards and choose a new modernity for ourselves while we continue to respect the traditions we love.
Dandies are the lovable rogues of the sartorial world. Too fancy for hard labor but the combination of savior fair and joie de vivre make for memorable conversations and stalwart weekend pals. They can serve to remind us there’s more to life than work.
What a lovely conversation you two had.
@@JasonBarnhart Indeed Jason. In France we love to say that you Americans, are living for working whereas us, French, we are working for living. All my best, Hugo
I would say Dandyism was the Punk Rock attitude of it's time.
Is it a coincidence that you are both wearing the same socks (maybe even shoes?)!
I gentleman did not work, they had private income and wealth. Only vulgar people worked. It would interesting to bring together the Dandy and Rake. Both very similar.
Bonjour, je suis née français dans la Nouvelle Ecosse, Canada, 1954.
Bonsoir Joseph ! Hugo
Lovely colour of suit sir. M.
Dandies were crooks. To characterize somebody as a dandy today, it only appeals to his external appearance. Elegance has nothing to do with dandyism. Elegance is moderate by its nature.
A dandy is a gentleman who specializes in being pretentious.
A Gentleman thinks for himself.
A dandy is like a narcissist
I love how Leon shares your passion for wide lapels!