I also recommend turning up the punch level not so much needed when you’re running 6s but on 4S makes the controls so much better. With that being said you may need to adjust the brakes as well
Great video. I noticed your ESC to motor wire were crossed up. Did you have to swap the A & C wires to get it to run in the right direction? I ask cause I had to.
Saw all your videos about this truck. Now that again some time has passed. Is the truck now durable in your opinion with the available RPM arms, alu steering rack, better turnbuckles and maybe the alu front and rear hub carriers + spindles. Or will it still break often with these upgrades? Thanks a lot.
Honestly, for bashing I recommend buying one of the "unbreakable" bodies. This might be more difficult with the war currently happening in Russia, but there are many folks within the US that resell them. Perhaps check out en.tmt-bodies.com/ Their bodies seem to be good. They also come from Turkey instead of Russia - so possibly easier to get right now.
Hi dude - when converting to run 2 x 3s batteries (EC5 connectors) other than soldering on the correct conversion what else do you need? Can you safely just plug one battery in (say a single 6s or 4s or even 3s) or do you need to cover off the spare connector or form some loop or other? Any info appreciated.
Hi! Yes, if you also want to run a single battery, the unused connector will need looped to close the circuit. Another connector with a short loop of wire soldered between the plugs works great.
@@RoadsideRC okay - so basically like a single looped male connector plugged into the empty female one? Great videos Troy - I enjoy your presenting style! Just bought this truck for £399 in England and following your recommendations as best I can! Take it easy bruvva.
@@RoadsideRC Hi Troy. Love the truck. Managed to solder a new EC5 connector. Thanks for the tips! Quick question when running 2x3S packs does matching them Mah or C rating matter? I don’t have two that are the same. Just 8 different makes and models with varying powers. Have you any advice? Thanks again and take care.
@@SnoriRC I would refrain from using two packs that aren't of the same brand/model/cell type. If the capacity rating is different then one of the batteries will naturally discharge faster than the other and since the ESC does not monitor individual cell voltage the smaller pack might get over discharged (i.e. under 3V cell voltage) because it can't correctly monitor the cut off voltage point. I'd say it's the same for different C ratings since the capacity depends on the discharge current (higher discharge current usually yields lower capacity) and again they might discharge in an undesirable way as mentioned before.
Do you have more tips? Add them here so we can keep building up this recommendation for new folks!
1) Many folks have found the diffs to be low on oil. After you drive it, if you are unhappy with it - go and check those out.
2) Buy some spare front control arms and pins. I am purchasing the Redcat Kaiju parts to see if they are stronger - video coming later!
@@RoadsideRC opinions seem to vary on the best weight for front and rear but most seem to consider 100k or 200k ideal for the centre.
I went 60 front 20mil middle and 30 rear. And love it.
I also recommend turning up the punch level not so much needed when you’re running 6s but on 4S makes the controls so much better. With that being said you may need to adjust the brakes as well
Nice video I didn’t even catch the part about the tubing on the rear shock ! Troy ! Troy ! Troy ! Go mt8 !
Thanks!
Worked like a champ on the Kaiju.
Full video on that mod is coming.
some excellent tips Troy
*watched in full👀Au👍thumbs up*
Thanks Billy!
Thanks gr8 video am gonna get some silicone pipe for shocks cut slot push it in then glue it back up 1cm:)
Glad this video was helpful!
Good luck!
@@RoadsideRC just ordered 4mm silicone pipe .Is it 4mm or 3mm inner hole best
@@RoadsideRC am just disappointed in uk they don't sell the alloy hub set .
Such a helpful video, Troy.
Glad you think so!
@@RoadsideRC RazorRC recommended turning punch up to 7 and brakes on either 25% or 50% as item ‘12’ (if ‘11’ is the diff oils).
Thx!
Don’t tighten that servo saver too tight! I think that may have contributed to the steering rack breaking on mine.
Interesting! Thanks for the tip.
Where did your rack break just curious
@@chassisslappers4381 about right in the middle. I was expecting it to have been close to the clearance cutout but it wasn’t.
Great video. I noticed your ESC to motor wire were crossed up. Did you have to swap the A & C wires to get it to run in the right direction? I ask cause I had to.
Good eye!
I think mine came that way, but it is pretty common to swap them if needed.
Check those diffs too. Mine had nothing in it.
Thanks!
Saw all your videos about this truck. Now that again some time has passed. Is the truck now durable in your opinion with the available RPM arms, alu steering rack, better turnbuckles and maybe the alu front and rear hub carriers + spindles. Or will it still break often with these upgrades? Thanks a lot.
I believe the truck is rather good - but sold it. Just never ended up using it .
I ran into issues with my rear hubs not a large issue just something to note
Thanks
whats a good basher body i could paint up? Thankyou for your time and any suggestions
Honestly, for bashing I recommend buying one of the "unbreakable" bodies.
This might be more difficult with the war currently happening in Russia, but there are many folks within the US that resell them.
Perhaps check out en.tmt-bodies.com/
Their bodies seem to be good. They also come from Turkey instead of Russia - so possibly easier to get right now.
Heat sink for the motor, or fan that motor can suffer
Nice add! I have not had the motor overheat on me, but I also haven't changed gearing or done a super-long bash session.
Yes! Need to look up motor size and get s heat sink. Mine hit 144 on 4s. Not crazy but hotter than I’d like during fair weather etc
@@thejeepinrealtor5742 it gets very hot on 6S. You can’t touch the can.
Hi dude - when converting to run 2 x 3s batteries (EC5 connectors) other than soldering on the correct conversion what else do you need? Can you safely just plug one battery in (say a single 6s or 4s or even 3s) or do you need to cover off the spare connector or form some loop or other? Any info appreciated.
Hi!
Yes, if you also want to run a single battery, the unused connector will need looped to close the circuit. Another connector with a short loop of wire soldered between the plugs works great.
@@RoadsideRC okay - so basically like a single looped male connector plugged into the empty female one? Great videos Troy - I enjoy your presenting style! Just bought this truck for £399 in England and following your recommendations as best I can! Take it easy bruvva.
@@SnoriRC Yes, exactly like that.
Glad the videos have been helpful and hope you enjoy the truck!
@@RoadsideRC Hi Troy. Love the truck. Managed to solder a new EC5 connector. Thanks for the tips! Quick question when running 2x3S packs does matching them Mah or C rating matter? I don’t have two that are the same. Just 8 different makes and models with varying powers. Have you any advice? Thanks again and take care.
@@SnoriRC
I would refrain from using two packs that aren't of the same brand/model/cell type. If the capacity rating is different then one of the batteries will naturally discharge faster than the other and since the ESC does not monitor individual cell voltage the smaller pack might get over discharged (i.e. under 3V cell voltage) because it can't correctly monitor the cut off voltage point. I'd say it's the same for different C ratings since the capacity depends on the discharge current (higher discharge current usually yields lower capacity) and again they might discharge in an undesirable way as mentioned before.