2003 Infiniti G35/Nissan 350Z VQ35 Ignition Coil and Valve Cover Replacement: Part 2
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- Опубліковано 7 жов 2024
- Update 3 Oct 18: I have replaced the valve cover gaskets with Victor Reinz part #'s 53658 and 53659 for left and right. I have paired these new, better gaskets with the cheap valve covers that I purchased from Amazon. The Amazon covers come with gaskets but the gasket included is poor quality and it began to leak after a few thousand miles. You can view the update video here: • Video
Update 22Sep18: Well I've started to see some oil leaking from the valve covers so if you are in the market for new covers you may want to hold off for a bit until I have time to take mine off again. I plan to investigate to see if it is the cover or the gaskets. I think that the gasket has caused the leak but I am not positive at this point. I hope to have them fixed by next weekend and I will report back with my findings.
Part 2: Putting it all back together. This is the companion video to my first part which detailed taking apart the plenum and valve covers to install new ignition coils and valve covers/gaskets.
Parts Needed:
Rocker Cover & Gaskets: a.co/h5LinIc
(this version has the oil filler neck that sits up high as in the G35 and possibly other vehicles with the VQ35 engine - make sure you order the correct part for your application)
Coil Packs: a.co/g9de7l7
RTV Silicone: a.co/8yh00T3
Just replaced the valve covers on my son's Nissan Skyline. This video helped immensely! Thank you so much.
My pleasure.
Appreciate the video. So much for owning a luxury car 😩. I know I have to tackle this soon, but honestly I'd rather change the tranny than do valve covers.
My pleasure.
Hi great video! Was just wondering how these valve covers were holding up? My passenger side valve cover gasket is leaking and now I’m looking into buying the gasket and cover. I’ve seen the review on some aftermarket valve covers that come with gaskets and a lot of people are saying that after buying the after market valve covers, they are experiencing leaks within months after installation.
I guess what I’m trying to ask is, should I buy the more expensive oem valve cover and gasket from Nissan or are the after market valve cover and gaskets sold on amazon working just fine?
shit... just read your description lol never mind what I just commented. Thanks for the video!
Yep, was just going to say, covers from Amazon are fine but get better gaskets.
Great video. When torquing the driver's side cover, did you remove the hose to get to bolt #7? Bolt 7 is the corner one close to the driver.
No, I used a u-joint on the 10mm and was able to get to it just fine.
All these damn cables and hoses on the VQ engine.... Having to take apart half the damn motor just to get to the gasket is beyond annoying. Took me 4 hours just changing the spark plugs, was my first time, because the areas are so damn tight. At the same time I obviously realized that I had oil in 3-4 of the 6 spark plug wells, so next up is doing this BS :/
I understand completely. They don't make it easy.
Lol everything is pretty straight forward once you do your homework
Welcome to the VQ my man ! LOL !
Thank you. Great video very helpful.
My pleasure.
JR's Garage where to find Torgue Diagram? I did't see it .Can you please send me the link .Thank you.
I showed the torque specs in the video but they are also here: app.box.com/s/8pc7n8dcvxufemoq9q7qk6kydzoixh1w
Great video. Thank you.
Thanks
@JR's Garage I know you have to take the coil packs off to get the valve covers off, but do you have to remove the spark plugs too to get the covers off? What size deep well socket? Great tutorial!
No, the spark plugs can stay in. Sorry, I can't remember the size of the socket.
You used a camera to check if the gasket was in place properly, how would you say I could do that without a camera? Doing this for the first time ! Awesome video lots of help !
Feeling with your finger that the gasket is not sticking out anywhere and that the same size gap exists the whole way around the valve cover when it's sitting on the engine. Thanks for the comment.
Great video, thank you. I followed everything you did and did the same job on my G35. I completed the valve cover and plenum spacer, but now when I start my car, it pops like a backfire and runs very rough. Is there anything obvious I can check for?
Give all the spark plugs a check. Make sue they are properly connected. Also check for a build up of oil around the plugs.
@@JRsGarage Thank you so much. I will definitely look at he plugs. They are fairly new, but could be bad. What was strange was that when I disconnected the top left plenum vacuum pipe (the one that goes into the battery bay), there was a huge vacuum and the popping stopped. Not sure why this happened.
@@JRsGarage Thank you again for directing me to the correct location. It ended up being a Rookie mistake, I had the coil leads for cylinder 4 and 6 backwards. I simply swapped them around and all is good now.
Awesome video! Thank you . One question I have...In general on all bolts that you remove and reinstall anywhere on the engine...do you use the blue lock tight or you just reinstall the bolt as is...obviously either way. Tighten to torque specs? Also the coils when would you replace them...at a certain range or wait till they fail...? Torque coil screw to 62 in lbs on page EM-35 on manual you provided. Thanks for that also. :)
I did not use any type of lock tight on the bolts. Just tighten to spec.
Doing this to mine next lol this would cost a lot if I had someone else doing it
Make sure you watch my latest valve cover video to avoid gasket leaks. Leak free ever since.
Do you have any pictures or diagram of the upper plenum screws? Mines kinda got messed up and now I don't know which goes where.
1drv.ms/i/s!AnVl9mnzz9Org9APzr1T1c1OoccuIQ
The shorter ones go towards the front.
Just did mines... Now it's starts but won't stay on
Switch the coils back to the original. Most likely you got a bad one.
on the driver side i disconneced that big coolant tube just to make it easier
That will definitely give better access.
I didn't😂 I didn't take the throttle body off. I held up the top plenum with a wire.
would you recommend changing the spark plugs too if oil had leaked in? I had it leaked in on the passenger side...SHOULD I CHANGE THAT ONLY SIDE OR CHANGE ALL 6?
Yes I would do the spark plugs since they were soaking in oil and if you going to do them do all six.
@@JRsGarage Thank you. will be changing all 6.
when it says 65-82 inch pounds does this mean anywhere between 65 to 82? dumb I know but I'm no mechanic.
Yes, anywhere in there will work.
hi, all you did was wipe the oil off? what about the tube sealer
You only need silicone on the front where I noted in the video. The gasket in the cover seals the rest of it. The spark plug gaskets are built into the cover.
The Factory service manual specifies super gray RTV silicone. You are using black RTV for oil resistance. Would it be a problem using the gray RTV?
Yes the gray will be fine. I used the black because that is all I had at the store near me.
I've had better luck with the black, Funny because if you buy the lower OEM kit for the bottom end as i did it comes with 2 tubes of the black RTV.
What vavle covers would you recommend to change the vavle covers besides OEM from nissan?? I have oil on my spark plugs too so im shopping around for vavle covers at the moment
I have a video comparison here with a link in the description. ua-cam.com/video/ZRp71FG3mHE/v-deo.html
JR's Garage thank you man! I just came across it earlier today!! Lol it was really helpful as well!! Keep the great videos coming!!
I recently changed the valve cover, but when I was putting them on I didn't hear a pop at all, but its bolt on getting a p0300 misfire code I don't see any oil leak so I'm very confused to what went wrong? Any suggestion as the car ran like a champ before change valve covers?
Check all of the plugs and plug wire connections. Sounds like something didn't get reconnected properly. If the plug tip on one of the cylinders is wet after trying to start that's likely your culprit cylinder.
@@JRsGarage I checked and all my fuel injector plugs are wet no clue why as I clean them dry after reassemble it looks wet again I'm try to remove the aluminum valve cover and switch back to the oem one with new gasket.
@@lenermaz4546 does the car start and run rough or does it not start at all? Can you tell if the ignition coils are seating properly on the spark plugs? Have you ever replaced the coil packs? Have you checked the coil pack wiring harnesses to make sure they are all connected?
@@JRsGarage The car starts fine then runs rough like misfire until now it gave me p0300 so I heard around everyone told me coil pack and spark plug all mine were mint no oil, but I change all to new ones did fuel pump as well even did oil changed still having misfire.
@@JRsGarage How can you tell if its seating properly it bolts on no shaking of any sort?
Aso on my g35 i have oil on the 3 spark bay
Do I have to change both of the valve covers ?
No, you can just change the one side, but likely the other side will fail soon as well.
True
Yeah i guess ill just change both
Thank you bro
great vid
JR: Did you have to clamp the water or coolant hose when you disconnected these hoses? Did you have to reprogram the throttle body after you disconnected it from its sensor? To avoid the reprogram, could you have just left it connected to the sensor and just disassemble the throttle body from the upper plenum? Is it optional to replace the gasket on top of the lower plenum? The FSM "manual" said to replace it whenever you disassemble it?
No, the coolant lines are high enough up that the fluid did not come out. I kept the ends upright and made sure they didn't tip down. You shouldn't have to reprogram the throttle body but I did because mine had a vacuum leak prior to the job that threw off the throttle setting and made it idle high. As long as you plug back in the throttle body and do not open/close the throttle body while it's disconnected it shouldn't need reprogramming. You can maybe leave it connected but it will likely be in the way. I would replace the gasket between the upper and lower plenum and also the gasket between the lower plenum and the intake runners. I did not because I have the Motordyne plenum spacer kit and it seems to be fine to reuse it.
Thanks. Did the aftermarket valve covers and gaskets have any problems later? I read one negative feedback on it. I prefer to use the OEM parts. I'm aware it costs more, but it may be worth it in the long term.
Initially I didn't add enough gasket maker to the front of the driver's side valve cover so there was a small leak but I popped it off and added a slightly bigger dab in the corners and now it's fine. Also don't over tighten the threads of the wire loom bolts or the thread sleeves may pop out. I'd still get the same one over stock. The quality appears no different.
Thanks again. Do you believe adding dielectric grease to the tip of the ignition coil or the rubber boot area would prevent moisture during winter and other problems later? Some internet posts said it needs to be added using a cotton swab? Or is this optional? I did not read it in the FSM manual. www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25/di-electric-grease-spark-plug-coils-93856/
I've never added any to mine and when I originally took them off a few years back didn't notice any on the OE units. Not sure that it's needed.
ok how did u get to 7??
You'll have to jog my memory, 7 what? It's been awhile since I did this job.
@@JRsGarage the one in the corner closest to the side mirror. im changing mine since i noticed a bit of oil around the spark plug tubes and also noticed residue around the gasket but im not sure how much oil im actually losing if any at all. taking a look at the passenger side it seems bone dry and dusty and since i cant even see all the bolts to take that off im not even going to bother touching it. i have seen some ppl seal around the space between the spark plug tubes and cover, so ill give that a try on the passenger side, it just looks like a huge pain in the ass and im not sure if it will even help.
@@timtaylor9590 I'm pretty sure I used a universal joint and an extension. The spark plug gaskets are built into the valve cover. Sealing with rtv might work for a while but I would expect the leak to return.
JR, can you check this thread and let me know if the upper plenum torque specs are different in a few bolts? (Bolts 1, 2, 9, 17 and 18). In the link below you will see the diagrams from the service manual. One page says 9 ft/lbs and a few pages later it says 52 inch/lbs. Here is the link for the forum thread. Thanks man.
www.infinitiscene.com/threads/oil-leak-valve-cover-gaskets.245900/page-7#post-1314083
All of the bolts on the upper plenum are 9-10 ft-lbs. The reference to "stud bolt" torque is for the studs that stick up and accept the front and back nuts. These studs should not have been removed so this section will likely not apply to your installation.
I did all the upper plenum bolts to 52 in/lbs and the lower to 9 ft/lbs.
It's confusing because the overall diagram points to bolt 1 and 2 of the upper plenum at 9-10 ft/lbs and the other diagram says all the upper plenum bolts should be 52 inch/lbs.
How are the QYL coils performing? Any issues since you installed them?
No issue, working just like stock.
Great. Thank you for the response and for taking the time to make the video.