Beginner Builds CABIN FOUNDATION From Scratch Under 4 MINUTES | Start to Finish
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- Опубліковано 27 січ 2023
- Timelapse video of the foundation I built for the DIY Cabin, solid concrete footings with sonotube pilasters will offer great support for the upcoming Cabin.
You want to know the budget for this Cabin and what each stage of the construction has cost me so far? Join my emailing list as I send a monthly newsletter diving into the numbers. Go ahead and add your email there and you will also receive the FREE Cabin Blueprint:
www.thediycabinguy.com/blueprint
I am Tristan, I am building a 400 SF cabin at the back of my house. I plan on doing it all by myself. I plan on sharing this journey here on UA-cam where I will show you every step of the way, all the struggles I run into and everything I will learn from this experience. I will then rent the cabin as a short term rental in hope of covering most, if not, all my house mortgage (House Hacking). Follow me here as this will absolutely be one of a kind journey.
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Content of the video :
00:00 - Rim Beam Installation
#CabinSeries #TheDIYCabinGuy #Cabin #TinyHouse #Timelapse #TimelapseSeries - Навчання та стиль
You can now get the free DIY Cabin Blueprint at :
thediycabinguy.com/blueprint
Ive watched quite a few of the videos in this series so far.
I am a retired home builder having had over 40 years in the home building industry.
I am very informed of every aspect of home building, and personally qualified to perform many of them.
My opinion here based upon my long experience is that this guy is not the novice he portrays himself to be.
And i would also say that he dosent always work alone as the videos indicate.
There are things he does purposely i feel in order to make the job appear more difficult.
Not that he is not at all unfamiliar with the use of power tools, such as the nail guns etc.
Also very few if any novices would even own the amount of power tools he has as well as the amount and quality of other tools as well.
Nor is he unfamiliar with laying out things like partitions, window and door openings etc.
Notice how he squared the partition while laying on the deck with his tape, no novice would know to do things like that.
Same goes with the electrical wiring, the vast majority of very good carpenters will have little knowledge about that.
So those who view these videos with the thought that with just a strong will this is all possible, think again before you try it.
Rest assured there is behind the scenes help involved here in order to accomplish much of what is happening.
Ernie, thank you for your comment, I have absolutely no prior building experience. I do have engineering experience so I knew a little bit about how things should be put together (structurally speaking).
For all the things I have no clue about, I do an enormous amount of research online before attempting a task. And even with all that research, I still end up making basic mistakes here and there 😂.
Excellent step-by-step. That cabin is there to stay!!!
Thanks !
Wholly crap that’s a lot of holes by hand! Well done Hercules.
Definitely a good workout 😂
Nicely done !
Thanks !
Great job can't wait till episode 44...
It will come, those long forms episode just take so much time to put together
I'd love to hear more about your design process - How you determined the spacing, depth, and all that. Whether you factored in soil tests to determine how big and deep to make your footers etc.
That’s a great question, in my area, there is no geotech test required so I used the typical minimum bearing capacity or 2,000 PSF based on minimum code requirements.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Thanks! We're these local codes or national/ansi/something else?
@@POTheta001 it might be in the IRC or maybe in the local code, not 100% sure
Nice work , went ahead and subscribe.
Awesome, thanks !
Good job !!
Thanks !
Well it's nice to see someone doing it correctly and not using those expensive Diamond Pier crap that heave with the first frost.
Thanks !
Great video! I'd just add that you must wear a mask when mixing that concrete. You'll really mess up your lungs if you don't. In fact, breathing in a little bit of that stuff could cause you serious problems. Stay safe people. 😁
Thanks! If you watch more of my videos, you’ll see that I’ve definitely been wearing a mask after that. You’re correct, definitely not worth it to breathe that stuff in.
Also got a respirator with special cartridges when I do staining which I am starting to do a lot of!
Could you explain in a video how you determin the placements of sonotubes
Okay I’ll keep that in mind
Coming from residential construction, but would love to hear from you and others. Would the rebar going up the Sono tube riser need to be tied into the rebar cage in the 'footing'? I'm used to seeing rebar risers coming out of the footings that then tie the concrete stem walls rebar that's poured later to the footing. But that's with a 2 pour process, maybe it's different with monolithic single pours. Also, what's the frost line there in the Appalachians? Thanks for showing the build. I'll be watching it with my daughter.
Kyle, footers need to be 24” deep to be below the frost line.
You’re probably right, I should have technically ties these up together but because it was a monolithic pour, I felt pretty comfortable with what I did.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy HAH! I knew you were a sham. Jk. I also love the way you notched the posts and braces.
Normally, the vertical rebar would be bent and overlapped, then wire tied to the horizontal rebar.
@@TheDIYCabinGuyFrost frost lines get deeper as the winter temperatures get colder in the north.
How far apart should the concrete footings be apart? I'm building a 14x44 cabin with 2x8 floor joists. Any pointers would be helpful!
You kind of have to run the numbers to know, it depends on the tributary area applied to each footers and what bearing capacity you are allowed to use for each footer will define the footer sizes
@TheDIYCabinGuy I'm going to be packing in a base of gravel level with the piers 1ft above ground level. Main goal is to have the peirs to prevent any shifting of the cabin. Got to go 6ft deep, wasn't sure if 8" width peirs were good enough or not. Spacing I figured I'd have 3 rows of piers. At 6.2ft apart to give me 7 per row. Will lay a vapor barrier before packed gravel to prevent moisture. Bottom of cabin will be pressure treated as well.
Great job i have one question why to use form for concrate and not in the earth as it is why to spend money for the lpastic and the yellow thing the concrate dont damage dy the earth
That’s a good point, I guess it was just easier for me since I had never done it.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy i want to make one same in Greece now you now and you have experience you sugest me to use that with aut this in earth only the concreate ;my baget is not big but if worth it to use great jop you to understand my english xaaxx thanks for the answer
It's a balance between the cost of the materials or the cost of the concrete and work needed to make it.
Also, How long did it take to get your footers in?
87 hours , yes I log all my work hours 🤣
How did you determine the number of piers and their spacing?
I’m a residential structural engineer, that’s what I do for work. Maybe I’ll end up doing a video on this subject eventually.
@@TheDIYCabinGuyYes please!!!
what is the black thing to be called to do pour the concrete inside ?
This one is called “square foot concrete form”
What region is this?
Appalachian mountain in western NC
Are those deap enough? Frost line in Northern Ohio is 38 inches. Or how deap to dig holes for concrete anyway.
@@wadebrewer7212 24 in here is acceptable
@@wadebrewer7212
Yea...frost line is 48 inches in Oh Canada...where I am🎉🎉🎉
@@Jarjarjar21 I can't imagine digging for frost line there. The 38" was bad enough with the clay and shale here.
Rebar touching the soil, will just rust out within a very short time.
That’s why the rebar is sitting on rebar chairs
I've seen a lot of rebar on bridges and buildings rust out. And they weren't even touching soil. There are several rust resistant rebars now. Even stainless steel rebar.
Generally, one and one half inchs minimum of concrete coverage on rebar will protect it from corrosion for a very long time in our soil conditions. Unless there is a high salt content in the area of the concrete. On the ground, I prefer concrete dobie blocks because there is no metal in contact with the ground. Metal rebar chairs would be for vaulted areas of form work not in direct contact with the ground. Rebar with a protective coating needs to be carefully protected. Every scratch will be a corrosion spot. The epoxy coated rebar that was specified for many jobs has fallen out of favor because of that corrosion problem. Materials are improved over time.There may be coatings that I am unaware of, I've been retired for a while.
Edited video under 4mins reality a few days hahahahha
Yep
If you could do it all again would you rent an auger or any other tool to make things go faster?
@@POTheta001 I would say it would depend on the soil conditions, because my soil was fairly easy to dig through (no rocks). I wouldn’t mind doing by hand again.