I am a licensed structural engineer and it's amazing to see someone build a cabin the right way. Probably the first cabin video I've seen on UA-cam where all of the connections are properly done. Well done sir! Even coating the cut ends of your pressure treated lumber is something I very rarely see done in the field.
Thanks a lot Matt! I have had a lot of people posting negative comments who don’t seem to grasp load paths and how it all needs to come together. Nice to hear from a fellow engineer!
I subscribed to the channel. I grew up in construction and love watching people who are thorough and have the patience to do the right thing the right way. Now time to watch every single video in order (gotta love engineers).
@@MattyO_83 thanks a lot, you’ll see the struggles I went though, it’s been a long journey and I’m nowhere done yet! But I have been learning a lot and it’s been a very fulfilling project.
@@HellcatM6 Typically I would agree with you, however he is using a post base so an 8x8 PT post is not too large for a 12" diameter conc. pier. It looks like he chose the 8x8 size so that he could fit a 3-ply beam and still side bolt the beam to post (which where I am from is a code requirement). The only unknown is if he has shallow rock at this location, hard clay at bearing, or is it silty soils? I have not watched the foundation installation so I can't comment on that, however you do develop skin friction between the surface area of the piers and the surrounding soil in addition to the end bearing capacity. All said and done, potentially the center piers are undersized. If it were me, I would have 24" diameter min concrete piers (supporting floor and roof load) with a 4-#4 vertical rebar cage and #3 ties @ 12" o.c. But as I said, not knowing the soil characteristics or where he is building, I can't comment on that.
It's cool you built something that'll last for generations. Leaving a piece of you behind for others to enjoy. It goes deeper than just building a cabin.
@@TexasRaised87-u2y most definitely! I’ve worked on numerous homes, and always enjoyed the little things you find, such as an all German farmers almanac! , beer cans, dolls, shoes, tools, magazines, newspapers and ww1 army dog tags! And the height of children thru the years of a family! Throughout my 50 year career I’ve been leaving time capsules in homes. Hopefully someday someone will enjoy them! Each home has a story! Especially the old ones!
See so many cabin builds here on UA-cam that literally make me fear for the people expecting to live in them. Usually very under structured and definitely will rot away when water gets in because it wasn't properly protected. It's refreshing to see someone doing it the right way, making sure everything is properly structured and supported. First video of your's I have come across, will watch the rest. Well done!
Can i ask why you chose to lay down the sub floor prior to insulation? It seems now the only option to insulate is to do it from the bottom which seems like a much harder way for you to do it instead of dropping it in while the floor joists were wide open and accessible from up top. Genuinely curious@TheDIYCabinGuy
@ because the insulation would have been completely ruined by water. Unless you can put the walls and the roof up really really fast, you should wait to put the insulation. Trust me, I did my absolute best to keep the cabin dry at all stages of construction by buying expensive huge tarps but even with my best effort, the wind would blew them, holes would get pocked and my subfloor would inevitably get wet…
Man, I love the reenforcement you have added to all the joints. And the hurricane ties. You start the foundation right the home will stand forever. I will have to see what's next to your build and admire your craftsmanship and your attention to the details.
You can tell he’s a rookie because of his excellent use of waterproofing methods. Professional carpenters never do it so the deck rots away in a few years. Nice job.
@@starjared12345 Concrete can't touch wood or it will make the wood rot. That is why they always put a metal or rubber barrier anywhere wood comes into contact with concrete. And only pressure treated wood should be used on concrete, but I would still put a barrier.
I am a bricklayer and I do construction work and I built a whole house myself, but this man surpassed me. This is called a real craftsman and a real bricklayer. Amazing!!!
A rookie doesn't screw in long screws that effortlessly or cut the angled supports so well. You are very good at what you do no matter how you label yourself. Great work!
Been in construction for a while now and I could make fun or nitpick a few things, but overall it seems like you did your homework and your work is done more properly than many "pros" I have worked with. Good job.
Great job! I’m a retired county building inspector and I’ve got to say you did a great job! I’m so tired of seeing such crappy dangerous building on UA-cam. It’s refreshing to see it done right! Everyone says the watch UA-cam videos to learn how to do things and I commonly disagree with that because there is so many horrible videos! This one is the best!
Finally ! Wooden support legs separated/elevated from the 'rot zone' by concrete and galvanised steel. Excellent. Wood is highly dependent on type, maturity, water content, grain direction/joint geometry, loading, and anti-corrosion/erosion treatment. It is easy to get it wrong, and build something with either a severely limited lifespan, unacceptable flexing/noise transmission, or inbuilt heavy maintenance needs. Good to see somebody who understands this. The old wood buildings of Scandinavia, Europe and America (immigrant knowledge), were developed over centuries of lessons learned from errors, and were never built to accommodate modern demands for energy conservation and luxury.
Thanks ! You’ll see a lot of people in the comments advocating for burying post directly into the ground 😵💫 I don’t understand why someone would take the risk to limit the lifespan of a building by using such practice.
At this rate, the whole cabin will only take about an hour. Not bad! Can get that done and get all the stuff moved in on a Saturday, and still have Sunday to relax
Really excellent attention to detail, the kind of work they’re talking about when “if you want it done right you have to do it yourself.” Same reason I like working on my own house, so I can get everything just right, better than it has to be.
My garage attic project was much like this, minus the concrete piers. But I too added cross blocking, the urethane adhesive under the T&G OSB, added mylar reflective lining in each rafter bay + airflow channel, and insulation, then framed up knee-walls, added HVAC ducting, and drywalled the interior, etc. Took the temperature in that Texas attic down at least 20 degrees, while recovering 400sf of wasted space. I too was a rookie / first sizable project like that, and feeling more validated now. Good work.
As a deck builder in the UK I thoroughly enjoyed this, wish everything was as quick. My motto is, "If it isn't good enough for me it won't be good enough for the customer" and I'm a fussy so and so. Nice work too.
Nicely done. My girlfriend and I just moved into a small cabin that my great grandfather built in 1960 on a lake in north Central Arkansas. He was an engineer with the Army COE, it's been in my family for 4 generations and now it's our turn to take care of it. Bones are solid but it needed some major updates as it was not designed to be lived in year round. This video gave me inspiration, thanks for documenting it
My unc and his boys were popping up cabins in Idyllwild, Pine Cove, and Fern Valley California as I was doing both electrical and plumbing. There was 3 of us and all I asked unc was to leave me any opening in the floor big enough for me set my tools so I could easily stand up in the build and get my tools/supplies. So he would always build me a spring loaded crawl space access panel. Being that it was always close to the center of the house, it really saved me time from having to access the crawl space. Most of the wiring I did in the crawl space accept for the lighting, both internal and external.
Always haters! So far very fine craftsmanship of a cabin. Better then most i've seen. I am speaking with experience. 52 year old tradesman with his own company. Your work is great.
Incredible foundation support. Good techniques and design, and knowledge of structure. Good learning tool for anyone to see. Best built cabin platform I've seen here yet!
This man said im building to last not to repair in a year. Great job sir. Also those who say others are lazy your right. Do a job right the first time and people will notice have to keep fixing the same job you wnt get good word of mouth.
Amazing work. And what an incredible filming/video style as well. “Here’s the work/process steps I’m doing next in detail. Now here’s the timelapse of those steps on the remaining sections.” Interesting, informative, yet not repetitive. Bravo
Have not seen the concrete flashing anywhere. This is awesome. 😃 I also like you snapped chalk lines to guide the drilling of screws. Some people do not do this but do not show when they miss the nailing member.
That giddy laugh at 1:07 is why construction (especially framing) is so wonderful. It’s always so satisfying to see your final result end up being square and level after doing all your math and mill work. Great video and awesome job man
Carpenter for 20 years and overall this was a pretty good job. In my area though the footings would have been larger and inspectors don’t allow overlapping joints because of possible scissoring movement. I know overlapping joists seems like a good idea until the center of the joists sag and start lifting on the ends over time causing a hump. Otherwise a great build.
30 year general contractor here. Rather than putting 2 joists together, you could have specked out a single LVL. You can get them pressure treated. If you insist on sistering joists together, a water proof membrane (like Vycor) should be placed on top in damp areas.
The guy says DIY. But he is pro level. I do things myself but this would be near impossible for myself. He laughs and says it’s perfect! Think I watched in amazement . Never get things perfect. Are you kidding me? 4.8 million views ? diy Guy is a millionaire!
As a home builder in the south central area, I think you knocked it out of the park. Building in the coastal area as well it’s always better to “go big”. Or you won’t have a home to go back to. I’m sure whatever cabin you build on there will stand the test of time for sure. Good job
Thanks Richard, even though I’m not in a coastal area, the code requires us to build for high winds which explains the use of all sorts of Simpson ties. Plus I do like a solid building as well, I have seen how production homes in Texas were built, I’m not doing that!
No kidding. Matt from the build show really showed the under belly of all those production home builders. Terrible. Keep up the good work. Never settle for “good enough”.
Thanks a lot Bill! It’s been very intense so far especially that I have a full time job and a young daughter. This project is feeling like it’s never ending. I truly did not realize it would take me this long. Having said that, it’s been a very fulfilling project and I am learning so much !
I like the metal over the concrete pillars interior the Simpson strong tie post mount. To be honest I have never seen that done before. Makes good sense to I will start doing that. Great work!
That was my one question, Al sheetmetal between Zinc dipped steel & high pH concrete, is the Al sacrificial? I might have used bituminous flashing if it is a sealing question. Please share your insight. This old boy is not getting it.
You need the post bases to separate the PT wood from the concrete, to avoid the PT chemical from leaching out. The newer chems don't like concrete. CCA didn't care. It also made your skin yellow/green. Helped me grow a third nipple, too.
I've used similar design, "post and beam," to build decks, 2 differences is we notch each side of the 6x6 so there will be a gap between the 2x12 and we set our post not over 8ft center with a 2ft hangover giving the edges a cantilever. Once the post and beams were up we built a deck 16' x24' with 2x6 joist and regular deck boards 4 years later a big tree fell across it the only thing it tore up was the handrail, sometimes it's better to be over engineered than under engineered and it falls down with a small storm
Thanks, yes I absolutely will but I have to wait until the roof is installed before doing that, otherwise the insulation would get wet and would be ruined
Very well built. I like the termite shields on the posts between wood and blocks. Most builders would just nail things together. But you used fasteners to make many connections to wood to hold things together. An expensive way to do it, but a good way too. Glue & screws on deck makes things strong. No nails here!👍👍 From my perspective, a very well built deck.
Those are unusual building techniques. I'm not sure what that metal flashing above the concrete posts will accomplish, but the waterproofing of cuts, the beefyness of the build and use of connectors is impressive. That thing will last a long time.
Next time, clamp the 2x beams/joist together before nailing them (as sistering). You want no gaps between then to obtain the friction strength rather than relying on the nail.
I really enjoyed this. A cousin and I did essentially the same thing about 30 years ago. Same level of beam lamination, post frequency and reinforcement because of wind and snow loads where we live. No Sono tubes and concrete though. Posts all the way down. Beams were nailed to the sides of the posts with a piece of wood laminated to the post underneath the beam. Hardest part was digging 4 foot holes below the frost line in an area with less than 4 inches of soil and hard clay mixed with glacial till. We usually only got to 3 feet and dug them all by hand. Cousin later put a box frame on top with an A Frame roof. Needed a 4x4 boom truck for that. Everything else was brought in strapped to a poor old ford escort wagon....that didn't look much like a car at the end!!!!!!
Hi from the UK, I really enjoy the cabin builds from North America. One question though....why the floor on top of the three purlins, and not joists with joist hangers between them? It appears you could have saved a bit of wood, and a but of height?
You’re right, I could have absolutely done it that way as well. The challenge though, in my case, would have been the lack of clearance under the cabin on the lower side. I just installed the plumbing under the cabin and trust me, if the cabin has been lowered by 10/12”, I would have never been able to work under there.
Great job for a “rookie”. Nice connection details. I thought blocking of joists where they join over interior beam is required - maybe not. Gluing and screwing subfloor is really the way to go.
@@jamesm7721 lol people can watch all the episodes I did about this build if they want to see the real struggles and what it took to get this done. People like a good Timelapse, it’s satisfying and they don’t have to hear me talk for hours on end 😂
Very important for thermal expansion and contractor of the sheets. If you actually go see these sheets in Home Depot or lowes, it’s actually printed on the sheet itself. 1/8” gap at ends.
Do you support the incredibly deep notches that he cut on the main support joists within the first few minutes of the video? Looks like he notched out 3/4 of the beam. Yes, structurally when notching a joist the weight bearing moves straight down the beam, but with that deep of cut it wouldn’t even pass residential deck codes when drilling and notching.
@@osmmanipadmehum It's appropriate for an area with decent amounts of soil movement, and somewhere that may not see routine maintenance more than once a year.
I've always wanted to build a place for us, someday I will. For now I'm enjoying builder videos like yours. Nicely done, and thanks for sharing your build with us 👍
Thanks Shane! With the internet and all the information available to all of us, anybody with the right motivation can build a cabin or a house. It’s not easy but doable.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy I hear you. I've worked on my share of homes and cabins over the years so I've got plenty of plans. And we're not getting any younger, so I'm definitely motivated, haha.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy No just the deck for now. Really uneven ground here so maybe i’ll reach out to you for some tips. Otherwise good luck and we’ll be watching. ✌️
Gunna have to start over my guy, the seams on the 2x12’s needed to be overlapping. Also I didn’t see you bust out the torque wrench for the tightening of the post bases. Use some butyl rubber compound on the seams of your makeshift concrete pillar tops.
Termite shield, that’s what they do in Texas typically. Pressure treated wood needs to be treated when you cut it like that, the treatment doesn’t typically go all the way inside the center of the wood.
Bro an amutrue with the right mind set and attention to detail the right tools can build good job man. You definitely seem to have some tool experience and at least minimal tool knowledge fun stiff great achievement
Well, you don't seem like a rookie builder. I've seen plenty of those on UA-cam that just make me shake my head at some of the things they do. Thanks for sharing this! Can't wait for the rest of the build.
I thought if you cut out more than 30% of a post or beam you compromise the strength, and you cut out about 90% of that post. The load is resting on the post yes but the lateral strength is relying on that thin strip of wood left from the notching. But idk ,I’ve never seen someone build like this, maybe it’s ok.
Definitely a strong build. I would have liked to see some kind of notch at the bottom of the diagonals so those screws didn’t take a shear load. Also I’m prejudiced against OSB if there’s ever water issues. Would love to see the next phases!
It's sometimes easier to place the vapor barrier on the floor joist before the osb if you plan on using fiberglass insulation or Rock wool. No required if using closed cell foam.
Love all the combination of screws, bolts and nailing, never can be to safe excellent. The only thing that is not needed but I would do it tack weld the nuts to the bolts so that you don't have to periodically go through and tighten them, I did that on a build. And it's nice because they never come loose. And if you have to replace one you can just cut it off. Beautiful awesome work bro🙏✝️☮️
The reason you need to go back and re-tighten is because the wood shrinks as it dries. It's not because the nuts become loose. After 6 months: It's very common to have nuts be only finger-tight despite torquing them down heavy to begin with. This is especially true when building with green lumber, and also true with kiln-dried (it's not completely dry). If you tack-weld the nuts, then you aren't going to be able to re-tighten. So do not tack-weld them.
@@joshpit2003 Politely Disagree actually, but what do I know after 63 years, yes the wood can shrink as it dries, but the reason is for loosening is not just because of that reason. as most all materials expand and contract, even Steel, especially where I live in Mesa Arizona With extreme heat, so temperature swings also have to be taken into consideration. Also here, I don't know about where you live Homes shift and move we call it settling. And this also can cause problems. I usually will consider the material and location of the bolts In this case I still would tighten the bolts at the structural support beams and tac them As I stated if they become too loose then you can always cut them. We're not talking about All bolts or 100, just maybe a dozen or so, depending on there locations. Also I have seen people go tighten them during the cooler temp's and if you get carried away, when the wood expands like here in extreme heat the pressure against the wood can cause damage and cracking or splits and now you have to replace the lumber. That's way way fricken worst than Cutting a couple of bolts. You do yours I'll stick to mine. Us old timers back in the day could build structures that would last hundreds of years. Now nothing last. The young man as I mentioned did an awesome job. All I said is I would tac some of those bolts in key locations 🤔🤷♂️
Great video, perfect amount of detail while not taking too long on any one area. I'm curious how well this might work but with a little more height. I plan to do something similar, but we can get pretty deep snowfall here, I'd like to keep the first floor above the snow pack. Would something like this work with say a 6' high post on each pier? Just have the bracing start low?
That’s a good point that a few people have brought up. I didn’t even question it to be honest as every deck construction here uses this method. I have seen dozens of deck structure (with huge heavy timber roof structure on top of it sometimes) and I have yet no seen a cracked post at the notch. I’d be curious to be a case where it failed that way.
Not really, got the tools on Black Friday, dewalt has some very good deals where you get get 8+ tools for the price of 4. Maybe 5K of wood for that platform, but this is an investment that will be rented as a short term rental.
Randy baker stole my comment😂 Anyway, “Dude”, that was impressive. I’ve done a good bit of building and for someone claiming to be a rookie you’ve done your homework. That place will be enjoyed for generations. Great job!
Thanks a lot! You’re right, I have no prior experience but did a lot of research beforehand. That’s all I’m looking for, for this little cabin to be enjoyed by family and friends for a long time!
I, too, have worked in construction for some time. Seriously stout construction, there - maybe even overbuilt - especially with lumber prices. Well done, sir. That structure is definitely not going anywhere...
Great job! Havent seen a cabin video as good as this one.grew up in a union carpentry family and you did everything so professionally..very uplifting video for future builders!
Thanks a lot! That’s really what I’m trying to achieve with this channel, motivate people to build cabins or tiny houses by themselves! It’s tough work but it’s achievable
I'm 9th generation Carpenter NON Union 27 years , but I'll agree you even used extra step's like gluing the seams of T&G OSB.. although I can nitpick on some things too..for instance if you're going to use 1 " 1/2 galvanized screw's for h2.5 use them ALL instead of half tieco nails as the nails tend to back out as the lumber ages
The only think I'm curious about is why no insulation was used before the sub floor was installed? I guess it could always be put in afterward because the decking is raised but it seems like it'd be easier to do from the top.
Not a good idea to put insulation then as it would have absolutely gotten wet over time. I wanted to wait for the cabin to be dried in and the roof installed before installing the insulation.
I've only built lean2 pole sheds for my cows and I too get super excited when it turns out level. This is awesome, yet is there a simpler way of creating the posts for the foundation?
I enjoyed watching this very much. A very robust job. I'm amazed at how well the new cordless tools work. At 8:18 you're laying floor and using nails to gap some of it. Can you explain why?
Yes, it’s required by the manufacturer (actually printed on the sheets). They require a 1/8” gap at the ends to allow for expansion/contraction of the sheets (due to change in moisture in the air).
Great question, on the top, because I’m going into the joist, I only have 1.5” so you have to use a special screw from Simpson which is equivalent to using a 3” long mail.
Love the build. Amazing work. Only thing I would've done differently is use screws instead of nails. But I dont have the skillset to get 90% of this done. Bravo
You can now get the free DIY Cabin Blueprint at :
thediycabinguy.com/blueprint
How do engineers prevent it from ever raining at the jobsite while they work? 🤔😃
@@mojoman2001 lots of tarp!
Thank you!
Excellent work! There's two ways to do things, the right way and again! Thank you for sharing.
@@rossm412 I like that! I might use that sentence from now on.
I am a licensed structural engineer and it's amazing to see someone build a cabin the right way. Probably the first cabin video I've seen on UA-cam where all of the connections are properly done. Well done sir! Even coating the cut ends of your pressure treated lumber is something I very rarely see done in the field.
Thanks a lot Matt! I have had a lot of people posting negative comments who don’t seem to grasp load paths and how it all needs to come together.
Nice to hear from a fellow engineer!
I subscribed to the channel. I grew up in construction and love watching people who are thorough and have the patience to do the right thing the right way. Now time to watch every single video in order (gotta love engineers).
@@MattyO_83 thanks a lot, you’ll see the struggles I went though, it’s been a long journey and I’m nowhere done yet! But I have been learning a lot and it’s been a very fulfilling project.
No your not, in the first 3 seconds he uses concrete piers that are too narrow. Any engineer would spot that right away.
@@HellcatM6 Typically I would agree with you, however he is using a post base so an 8x8 PT post is not too large for a 12" diameter conc. pier. It looks like he chose the 8x8 size so that he could fit a 3-ply beam and still side bolt the beam to post (which where I am from is a code requirement). The only unknown is if he has shallow rock at this location, hard clay at bearing, or is it silty soils?
I have not watched the foundation installation so I can't comment on that, however you do develop skin friction between the surface area of the piers and the surrounding soil in addition to the end bearing capacity. All said and done, potentially the center piers are undersized.
If it were me, I would have 24" diameter min concrete piers (supporting floor and roof load) with a 4-#4 vertical rebar cage and #3 ties @ 12" o.c. But as I said, not knowing the soil characteristics or where he is building, I can't comment on that.
It's cool you built something that'll last for generations. Leaving a piece of you behind for others to enjoy. It goes deeper than just building a cabin.
Thanks! Yeah I fully agree!
@@TexasRaised87-u2y most definitely! I’ve worked on numerous homes, and always enjoyed the little things you find, such as an all German farmers almanac! , beer cans, dolls, shoes, tools, magazines, newspapers and ww1 army dog tags! And the height of children thru the years of a family! Throughout my 50 year career I’ve been leaving time capsules in homes. Hopefully someday someone will enjoy them! Each home has a story! Especially the old ones!
I’ve been a carpenter for 50 years now. I like what I’m seeing! We are on the same page! Good work!
Thanks 👍
Right DIY guy at the level of a 50 year carpenter! Says it all!
@@mikecaprock9684 I’ll take it as a compliment 😄
See so many cabin builds here on UA-cam that literally make me fear for the people expecting to live in them. Usually very under structured and definitely will rot away when water gets in because it wasn't properly protected. It's refreshing to see someone doing it the right way, making sure everything is properly structured and supported. First video of your's I have come across, will watch the rest. Well done!
Thanks !
Can i ask why you chose to lay down the sub floor prior to insulation? It seems now the only option to insulate is to do it from the bottom which seems like a much harder way for you to do it instead of dropping it in while the floor joists were wide open and accessible from up top. Genuinely curious@TheDIYCabinGuy
@ because the insulation would have been completely ruined by water. Unless you can put the walls and the roof up really really fast, you should wait to put the insulation.
Trust me, I did my absolute best to keep the cabin dry at all stages of construction by buying expensive huge tarps but even with my best effort, the wind would blew them, holes would get pocked and my subfloor would inevitably get wet…
@TheDIYCabinGuy ahhh I see and that does make sense..
Man, I love the reenforcement you have added to all the joints. And the hurricane ties. You start the foundation right the home will stand forever. I will have to see what's next to your build and admire your craftsmanship and your attention to the details.
Thanks !
You can tell he’s a rookie because of his excellent use of waterproofing methods. Professional carpenters never do it so the deck rots away in a few years. Nice job.
What's with the sheet metal on top of the concrete footings?
@@starjared12345 I think its for termites / insects / rodents. Or maybe a water barrier?
@@kevin3434343434 a bit of both
@@starjared12345 Concrete can't touch wood or it will make the wood rot.
That is why they always put a metal or rubber barrier anywhere wood comes into contact with concrete.
And only pressure treated wood should be used on concrete, but I would still put a barrier.
At least you know you’ll have another job in a few years. Lmaoo
I am a bricklayer and I do construction work and I built a whole house myself, but this man surpassed me. This is called a real craftsman and a real bricklayer. Amazing!!!
Thanks!
I can’t believe he did this all in under 10 minutes! impressive to say the least
🤣 just so fast !
Must have had a red bull or so...
@@myduino a couple of 5 hours energy did the trick 😂
LOL
I think it’s mostly due to his teleport ability. If you look closely you will see it
A rookie doesn't screw in long screws that effortlessly or cut the angled supports so well.
You are very good at what you do no matter how you label yourself. Great work!
Thanks! This is my first ever project like this.
@@TheDIYCabinGuyok but what’s your background?
@@nofurtherwest3474 engineering
@@TheDIYCabinGuy ahhhh.... gotcha!
lol j/k man...
good work bro.
Good video . No wasted footage No unnecessary talking. I could replicate that on watching this video alone.
Thanks
Been in construction for a while now and I could make fun or nitpick a few things, but overall it seems like you did your homework and your work is done more properly than many "pros" I have worked with. Good job.
Thanks !
For homework purposes, what would you nitpick?
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Very strong and sturdy!!!! Built to last too. I would have used longer floor joists. But hey notched is good too!
@@mrseaweed5587 thanks !
Nah u can’t nitpick $hit
Great job!
I’m a retired county building inspector and I’ve got to say you did a great job! I’m so tired of seeing such crappy dangerous building on UA-cam. It’s refreshing to see it done right!
Everyone says the watch UA-cam videos to learn how to do things and I commonly disagree with that because there is so many horrible videos! This one is the best!
Very glad to hear that, means a lot coming from an experienced building inspector! Thanks for taking the time to write this comment.
Finally ! Wooden support legs separated/elevated from the 'rot zone' by concrete and galvanised steel. Excellent. Wood is highly dependent on type, maturity, water content, grain direction/joint geometry, loading, and anti-corrosion/erosion treatment. It is easy to get it wrong, and build something with either a severely limited lifespan, unacceptable flexing/noise transmission, or inbuilt heavy maintenance needs. Good to see somebody who understands this. The old wood buildings of Scandinavia, Europe and America (immigrant knowledge), were developed over centuries of lessons learned from errors, and were never built to accommodate modern demands for energy conservation and luxury.
Thanks ! You’ll see a lot of people in the comments advocating for burying post directly into the ground 😵💫 I don’t understand why someone would take the risk to limit the lifespan of a building by using such practice.
At this rate, the whole cabin will only take about an hour. Not bad! Can get that done and get all the stuff moved in on a Saturday, and still have Sunday to relax
If only 😂
Really excellent attention to detail, the kind of work they’re talking about when “if you want it done right you have to do it yourself.” Same reason I like working on my own house, so I can get everything just right, better than it has to be.
Thanks! Yeah it’s nice to get to do it the way I want it done.
He’s no Rookie!
My garage attic project was much like this, minus the concrete piers. But I too added cross blocking, the urethane adhesive under the T&G OSB, added mylar reflective lining in each rafter bay + airflow channel, and insulation, then framed up knee-walls, added HVAC ducting, and drywalled the interior, etc. Took the temperature in that Texas attic down at least 20 degrees, while recovering 400sf of wasted space.
I too was a rookie / first sizable project like that, and feeling more validated now. Good work.
As a deck builder in the UK I thoroughly enjoyed this, wish everything was as quick. My motto is, "If it isn't good enough for me it won't be good enough for the customer" and I'm a fussy so and so. Nice work too.
That’s great to hear, I see so many builders cutting corners to get done fast and maximize profit…
I built an 8x8 shed by myself. And felt like it was a ton for with for one person. This guy is a champ!
Thanks !
Nicely done. My girlfriend and I just moved into a small cabin that my great grandfather built in 1960 on a lake in north Central Arkansas. He was an engineer with the Army COE, it's been in my family for 4 generations and now it's our turn to take care of it. Bones are solid but it needed some major updates as it was not designed to be lived in year round. This video gave me inspiration, thanks for documenting it
Thanks !
Dude, you’re the King of DIYers!
My unc and his boys were popping up cabins in Idyllwild, Pine Cove, and Fern Valley California as I was doing both electrical and plumbing. There was 3 of us and all I asked unc was to leave me any opening in the floor big enough for me set my tools so I could easily stand up in the build and get my tools/supplies. So he would always build me a spring loaded crawl space access panel. Being that it was always close to the center of the house, it really saved me time from having to access the crawl space. Most of the wiring I did in the crawl space accept for the lighting, both internal and external.
Sure doesn’t look like it’s a rookie build you did an AMAZING job!!
Still my first time building something like this
I built mine with 16 guage steel door post studs 4 ft in ground with concrete. This guy did an excellent job.
Thanks !
Always haters! So far very fine craftsmanship of a cabin. Better then most i've seen. I am speaking with experience. 52 year old tradesman with his own company. Your work is great.
Means a lot! Thank you so much! This is my first ever project of this magnitude
Totally agree with you! I’ve been in the trade 50years. He’s top notch!
I am a foundation repair expert. I own a foundation repair company in Houston Texas. I can say that this was a great job.
Nice! I lived in Houston for 5 years before moving to NC. Lots of shifting foundations in H town.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy yes everyday
Incredible foundation support. Good techniques and design, and knowledge of structure. Good learning tool for anyone to see. Best built cabin platform I've seen here yet!
Much appreciated!
I think the cut part of the post is too thin- the part that the joists are bolted to. Not much shear strength
This man said im building to last not to repair in a year. Great job sir. Also those who say others are lazy your right. Do a job right the first time and people will notice have to keep fixing the same job you wnt get good word of mouth.
Thanks !
Amazing work. And what an incredible filming/video style as well. “Here’s the work/process steps I’m doing next in detail. Now here’s the timelapse of those steps on the remaining sections.” Interesting, informative, yet not repetitive. Bravo
Thanks! Yep I spend a lot of time editing all these videos
Have not seen the concrete flashing anywhere. This is awesome.
😃
I also like you snapped chalk lines to guide the drilling of screws. Some people do not do this but do not show when they miss the nailing member.
Thanks !
03:00CDT
That’s the strongest floor structure I ever seen! Great job on the floor & Video!!
Thanks John!
That's exactly what I was thinking. You could start an elephant habitat on that thing. Awesome!
@@moredrawlessfade4088 😂😂😂 if the airbnb plan doesn’t pan out, good to know I have a back up option now.
I love it. Will last 100 years. Build it yourself. All that access under there too for future issues- gonna be amazing.
Thanks!
EXCELLENT! People need to see what it takes to build a Well Enginered Structural Designed Cabin! Keep up the good work!
Thanks John, yes this isn’t your typical UA-cam cabin built built out of pallets and sitting directly on the ground 😂
I see you wised up and went with that palm nailer after Hand nailing some brackets. 👌🏻 wise choice.
Oh yeah, such a time saver ! I love that thing
That giddy laugh at 1:07 is why construction (especially framing) is so wonderful. It’s always so satisfying to see your final result end up being square and level after doing all your math and mill work. Great video and awesome job man
Thanks a lot! Yes, framing can be so fulfilling
Carpenter for 20 years and overall this was a pretty good job. In my area though the footings would have been larger and inspectors don’t allow overlapping joints because of possible scissoring movement. I know overlapping joists seems like a good idea until the center of the joists sag and start lifting on the ends over time causing a hump. Otherwise a great build.
Thanks a lot
Dude you the man! Nailing glue and screw the flooring down. How all construction should be. I have a new home with squeaky floors I learned my lesson.
Yeah my house squeaks a lot too so I definitely did not want that for the cabin!
30 year general contractor here. Rather than putting 2 joists together, you could have specked out a single LVL. You can get them pressure treated. If you insist on sistering joists together, a water proof membrane (like Vycor) should be placed on top in damp areas.
Nice! PT lvl aren’t cheap though
The guy says DIY. But he is pro level. I do things myself but this would be near impossible for myself. He laughs and says it’s perfect! Think I watched in amazement . Never get things perfect. Are you kidding me? 4.8 million views ? diy Guy is a millionaire!
First time ever doing a cabin so it is diy
You’d be surprised to know how little UA-cam pays even for videos that get millions of views
As a home builder in the south central area, I think you knocked it out of the park. Building in the coastal area as well it’s always better to “go big”. Or you won’t have a home to go back to.
I’m sure whatever cabin you build on there will stand the test of time for sure. Good job
Thanks Richard, even though I’m not in a coastal area, the code requires us to build for high winds which explains the use of all sorts of Simpson ties. Plus I do like a solid building as well, I have seen how production homes in Texas were built, I’m not doing that!
No kidding.
Matt from the build show really showed the under belly of all those production home builders. Terrible.
Keep up the good work. Never settle for “good enough”.
@@RichardKetay1 thanks!
You’ve got to be the hardest working guy on you tube. Thank you for these videos.
Thanks a lot Bill! It’s been very intense so far especially that I have a full time job and a young daughter. This project is feeling like it’s never ending. I truly did not realize it would take me this long. Having said that, it’s been a very fulfilling project and I am learning so much !
Pretty sweet. Love it. I want to do this in Maine. Amazing it only took you 10 minutes. You were really flying !
Thanks !
I like the metal over the concrete pillars interior the Simpson strong tie post mount. To be honest I have never seen that done before. Makes good sense to I will start doing that. Great work!
Thanks !
That was my one question, Al sheetmetal between Zinc dipped steel & high pH concrete, is the Al sacrificial? I might have used bituminous flashing if it is a sealing question. Please share your insight. This old boy is not getting it.
@@patrickhayes3099 I’m not sure either 😂 maybe this was not such a great idea. I’ll keep an eye on it and see how it evolves.
You need the post bases to separate the PT wood from the concrete, to avoid the PT chemical from leaching out. The newer chems don't like concrete. CCA didn't care. It also made your skin yellow/green. Helped me grow a third nipple, too.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy didn't you note this is termite shielding? A goog thing.
nice work enjoyed the vid 🙏
Appreciate it
This was super relaxing to watch. I feel inspired to do some work on the house, I won't, but inspired none the less haha.
Ahah come on, just pick up that hammer, it’s fun !
I've used similar design, "post and beam," to build decks, 2 differences is we notch each side of the 6x6 so there will be a gap between the 2x12 and we set our post not over 8ft center with a 2ft hangover giving the edges a cantilever. Once the post and beams were up we built a deck 16' x24' with 2x6 joist and regular deck boards 4 years later a big tree fell across it the only thing it tore up was the handrail, sometimes it's better to be over engineered than under engineered and it falls down with a small storm
Nice! Sounds pretty strong !
Best I’ve seen. Good strong foundation. Should withstand a good earthquake 👏🏻
Thanks
Hello thanks for you vidéo. Will you put isolation under the floor? If no, what is the reason ? Have a nice day
Thanks, yes I absolutely will but I have to wait until the roof is installed before doing that, otherwise the insulation would get wet and would be ruined
Very well built. I like the termite shields on the posts between wood and blocks. Most builders would just nail things together. But you used fasteners to make many connections to wood to hold things together. An expensive way to do it, but a good way too. Glue & screws on deck makes things strong. No nails here!👍👍 From my perspective, a very well built deck.
Thanks!
Nail the roof not a floor 😂
A Rookie? I think not! Nice build vid!
Those are unusual building techniques. I'm not sure what that metal flashing above the concrete posts will accomplish, but the waterproofing of cuts, the beefyness of the build and use of connectors is impressive. That thing will last a long time.
The metal flashing was something that was done in Texas, they call it thermite shields.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy If you used aluminum, you have a problem.
Termite shields
Next time, clamp the 2x beams/joist together before nailing them (as sistering). You want no gaps between then to obtain the friction strength rather than relying on the nail.
Thanks !
oh yeh, and dont forget to install insullation in the floor.
@@mrseaweed5587 im going to put the metal roof on soon so that will be the task after that
Talk about a labor of love! Holy crap that was perfection every step of the way! That thing is going NOWHERE!
Thanks!
Great job! Question: what's the idea behind glueing platform top sheets to frame? Screws are not enough for this case?
Glueing in addition with screwing will help in preventing the floor from squeaking and it can also help in preventing air leaks as well.
So many experts here on UA-cam! I say job well done, don't change a thing.
Thanks !
I really enjoyed this. A cousin and I did essentially the same thing about 30 years ago. Same level of beam lamination, post frequency and reinforcement because of wind and snow loads where we live. No Sono tubes and concrete though. Posts all the way down. Beams were nailed to the sides of the posts with a piece of wood laminated to the post underneath the beam. Hardest part was digging 4 foot holes below the frost line in an area with less than 4 inches of soil and hard clay mixed with glacial till. We usually only got to 3 feet and dug them all by hand. Cousin later put a box frame on top with an A Frame roof. Needed a 4x4 boom truck for that. Everything else was brought in strapped to a poor old ford escort wagon....that didn't look much like a car at the end!!!!!!
Nice, that digging sounds awful! Mine was rough but only had to go 24” and soil was free of rocks and pretty easy to dig through.
Hi from the UK, I really enjoy the cabin builds from North America. One question though....why the floor on top of the three purlins, and not joists with joist hangers between them? It appears you could have saved a bit of wood, and a but of height?
You’re right, I could have absolutely done it that way as well. The challenge though, in my case, would have been the lack of clearance under the cabin on the lower side. I just installed the plumbing under the cabin and trust me, if the cabin has been lowered by 10/12”, I would have never been able to work under there.
Great job for a “rookie”. Nice connection details. I thought blocking of joists where they join over interior beam is required - maybe not. Gluing and screwing subfloor is really the way to go.
Yeah that’s a good point, I could have added blocking there as well!
Great video, find it amazing how easy a time-lapse makes it look when we all know it's really not
Yeah that’s months of work and a lot of effort!
@The DIY Cabin Guy all summed up in a 9 minute video. Takes me longer to set up my saw horse
@@jamesm7721 lol people can watch all the episodes I did about this build if they want to see the real struggles and what it took to get this done. People like a good Timelapse, it’s satisfying and they don’t have to hear me talk for hours on end 😂
It's not really that difficult. You just need the right tools and methods.
@The Monster Under Your Bed ye suppose its the right tools, method, skills, training, time, money. Ye pretty easy I'd say
8:19 I did the smallest amount of framing with a crew, but this is the first thing I saw that I had no idea. Why the gap?
Very important for thermal expansion and contractor of the sheets. If you actually go see these sheets in Home Depot or lowes, it’s actually printed on the sheet itself. 1/8” gap at ends.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy thank you for the kind and quick response.
@@DG-ee9hi anytime 😀
As a 36 year building inspector, I approve of this build.
Nice!
Do you support the incredibly deep notches that he cut on the main support joists within the first few minutes of the video? Looks like he notched out 3/4 of the beam. Yes, structurally when notching a joist the weight bearing moves straight down the beam, but with that deep of cut it wouldn’t even pass residential deck codes when drilling and notching.
@@JohnTheManMythAndLegend it’s still fully bearing on the post and doesn’t affect its capacity to support the loads. I think you’re getting confused.
Isn't it overengineered?
@@osmmanipadmehum It's appropriate for an area with decent amounts of soil movement, and somewhere that may not see routine maintenance more than once a year.
Sir...most impressive build I've seen yet.
If I ever do this, I'm watching you start to finish.
Thanks !
I've always wanted to build a place for us, someday I will. For now I'm enjoying builder videos like yours. Nicely done, and thanks for sharing your build with us 👍
Thanks Shane! With the internet and all the information available to all of us, anybody with the right motivation can build a cabin or a house. It’s not easy but doable.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy I hear you. I've worked on my share of homes and cabins over the years so I've got plenty of plans. And we're not getting any younger, so I'm definitely motivated, haha.
I can’t wait until you build a place for us too. ❤️
Brother this video is so fantastic, great work!
Thanks!
Great job my friend. Looking to take on a similar project soon. ✌️
Nice, a cabin as well ?
@@TheDIYCabinGuy No just the deck for now. Really uneven ground here so maybe i’ll reach out to you for some tips. Otherwise good luck and we’ll be watching. ✌️
@@tigere1111 nice ! Thanks !
Nice work! You have helped me greatly with your excellent waterproofing and support beam techniques
Thanks ! Glad it was helpful
very very well thought out, and sturdy as an ox
Thanks !
@@TheDIYCabinGuy do you mind sharing cost roughly of that portion you just did?
@@harrisongwin6859 go ahead and join my emailing list, I send a monthly newsletter with a complete cost breakdown.
www.thediycabinguy.com/blueprint
@@TheDIYCabinGuy just did thanks
Gunna have to start over my guy, the seams on the 2x12’s needed to be overlapping. Also I didn’t see you bust out the torque wrench for the tightening of the post bases. Use some butyl rubber compound on the seams of your makeshift concrete pillar tops.
👍
I really appreciate the information you share and the hard work you put into making these videos. Thank you!
Really appreciate the comment Sam! That means a lot as I do put a lot of time and effort in my channel!
I got to say after doing construction for 20 years plus that my friend was some huge Overkill that thing ain't going nowhere good job man
Thanks !
Fantastic work.
Thanks!
2 ?s sir. Why the extra flashing under your columns and what did you paint on the cut pressure treated wood
Termite shield, that’s what they do in Texas typically. Pressure treated wood needs to be treated when you cut it like that, the treatment doesn’t typically go all the way inside the center of the wood.
Love it! Well done 👍
Thanks !
Bro an amutrue with the right mind set and attention to detail the right tools can build good job man. You definitely seem to have some tool experience and at least minimal tool knowledge fun stiff great achievement
Thanks
Well, you don't seem like a rookie builder. I've seen plenty of those on UA-cam that just make me shake my head at some of the things they do. Thanks for sharing this! Can't wait for the rest of the build.
Thanks !
Instead of notching those posts you should have used a 4x6 and scabbed a 2x6 on the one side.
Could have worked too!
I thought if you cut out more than 30% of a post or beam you compromise the strength, and you cut out about 90% of that post. The load is resting on the post yes but the lateral strength is relying on that thin strip of wood left from the notching. But idk ,I’ve never seen someone build like this, maybe it’s ok.
Definitely a strong build. I would have liked to see some kind of notch at the bottom of the diagonals so those screws didn’t take a shear load. Also I’m prejudiced against OSB if there’s ever water issues. Would love to see the next phases!
Thank you! The next phases are already on my channel 😀
Can someone please explain to me how you stop rodents from chewing from underneath the plywood and making nests under your cabin?
Yeah I’m not sure either, I’ll have to figure that out when I get to that point
Staple some hardware cloth on the bottom of floor joist !! after insulating !
R-30 Insulation and hardware cloth and your good to go. Great to see someone else use termite shields. Done right.
@@debcrider thanks !
Like every other cabin , chicken wire skirting rat poison , skirting add a few Feral cats it’s an on going battle . No one pours a slab .
It's sometimes easier to place the vapor barrier on the floor joist before the osb if you plan on using fiberglass insulation or Rock wool. No required if using closed cell foam.
That’s a great point! I did not think of it
Love all the combination of screws, bolts and nailing, never can be to safe excellent.
The only thing that is not needed but I would do it tack weld the nuts to the bolts so that you don't have to periodically go through and tighten them, I did that on a build. And it's nice because they never come loose. And if you have to replace one you can just cut it off. Beautiful awesome work bro🙏✝️☮️
Thanks !
The reason you need to go back and re-tighten is because the wood shrinks as it dries. It's not because the nuts become loose. After 6 months: It's very common to have nuts be only finger-tight despite torquing them down heavy to begin with. This is especially true when building with green lumber, and also true with kiln-dried (it's not completely dry). If you tack-weld the nuts, then you aren't going to be able to re-tighten. So do not tack-weld them.
@@joshpit2003
Politely Disagree actually, but what do I know after 63 years, yes the wood can shrink as it dries, but the reason is for loosening is not just because of that reason. as most all materials expand and contract, even
Steel, especially where I live in Mesa Arizona
With extreme heat, so temperature swings also have to be taken into consideration. Also here, I don't know about where you live
Homes shift and move we call it settling. And this also can cause problems. I usually will consider the material and location of the bolts
In this case I still would tighten the bolts at the structural support beams and tac them
As I stated if they become too loose then you can always cut them. We're not talking about
All bolts or 100, just maybe a dozen or so, depending on there locations.
Also I have seen people go tighten them during the cooler temp's and if you get carried away, when the wood expands like here in extreme heat the pressure against the wood can cause damage and cracking or splits and now you have to replace the lumber. That's way way fricken worst than
Cutting a couple of bolts.
You do yours I'll stick to mine. Us old timers back in the day could build structures that would last hundreds of years.
Now nothing last. The young man as I mentioned did an awesome job. All I said is I would tac some of those bolts in key locations 🤔🤷♂️
Great video, perfect amount of detail while not taking too long on any one area. I'm curious how well this might work but with a little more height. I plan to do something similar, but we can get pretty deep snowfall here, I'd like to keep the first floor above the snow pack. Would something like this work with say a 6' high post on each pier? Just have the bracing start low?
Would have to run the numbers to really know for sure
I hate to know what the receipt looked like. That’s an amazing job though
It definitely adds up but this will be rented as an Airbnb so it will pay for itself within a few years.
Well done! You did everything right! Solid! Floor will NEVER squeak!!!
Yes! Thank you!
Just curious: why the notches in the post? It seems that would create a weak/stress point for any shear movement in that direction? Thanks!
That’s a good point that a few people have brought up. I didn’t even question it to be honest as every deck construction here uses this method. I have seen dozens of deck structure (with huge heavy timber roof structure on top of it sometimes) and I have yet no seen a cracked post at the notch.
I’d be curious to be a case where it failed that way.
Just a guy, a forest and $50K of tools and materials.
Not really, got the tools on Black Friday, dewalt has some very good deals where you get get 8+ tools for the price of 4.
Maybe 5K of wood for that platform, but this is an investment that will be rented as a short term rental.
Haha Black Friday kit diy this first try. Come on man. Why be a liar. Nice work to how ever built it.
TRISTAN!
This video has so many views!!!! SO AWESOME!
Hope you're doing well!
Hey Blake! Yep, my Timelapse idea paid off 😃 nice discoverable video and I got more like these coming 👍
What does from scratch mean nowadays? Apparently not what it meant to Dick Proenneke.
Perhaps the best construction I've seen and kudos to you.
Appreciate it! Thanks a lot
This series is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks, and great job man
Thanks, glad it's helpful!
That's a fun job/chore... Especially when you take the time to do it right.
It’s been a tough project but extremely rewarding and fulfilling !
Randy baker stole my comment😂
Anyway, “Dude”, that was impressive. I’ve done a good bit of building and for someone claiming to be a rookie you’ve done your homework. That place will be enjoyed for generations. Great job!
Thanks a lot! You’re right, I have no prior experience but did a lot of research beforehand. That’s all I’m looking for, for this little cabin to be enjoyed by family and friends for a long time!
Awesome job the only thing I wonder about is why no insulation on that floor ? other then that very good work def built to last...
Installation installed after roof was up
A little over build just means your grandkids will enjoy the cabin for years to come. Great job !
That’s the way I look at it !
I smiled when I saw the subfloor PL come out. Great job, solid build!
Thanks!
I, too, have worked in construction for some time. Seriously stout construction, there - maybe even overbuilt - especially with lumber prices. Well done, sir. That structure is definitely not going anywhere...
Thanks! I’m glad lumber has been down from the crazy ups it reached last year. Still probably more expensive than what it used to be 5+ years ago.
Great job! Havent seen a cabin video as good as this one.grew up in a union carpentry family and you did everything so professionally..very uplifting video for future builders!
Thanks a lot! That’s really what I’m trying to achieve with this channel, motivate people to build cabins or tiny houses by themselves! It’s tough work but it’s achievable
I'm 9th generation Carpenter NON Union 27 years , but I'll agree you even used extra step's like gluing the seams of T&G OSB.. although I can nitpick on some things too..for instance if you're going to use 1 " 1/2 galvanized screw's for h2.5 use them ALL instead of half tieco nails as the nails tend to back out as the lumber ages
Great to see something built the right way on you tube. Good job!!
Thanks John !
The only think I'm curious about is why no insulation was used before the sub floor was installed? I guess it could always be put in afterward because the decking is raised but it seems like it'd be easier to do from the top.
Not a good idea to put insulation then as it would have absolutely gotten wet over time. I wanted to wait for the cabin to be dried in and the roof installed before installing the insulation.
I've only built lean2 pole sheds for my cows and I too get super excited when it turns out level. This is awesome, yet is there a simpler way of creating the posts for the foundation?
Thanks, I’m sure there are other ways to do what I did.
I enjoyed watching this very much. A very robust job. I'm amazed at how well the new cordless tools work. At 8:18 you're laying floor and using nails to gap some of it. Can you explain why?
Yes, it’s required by the manufacturer (actually printed on the sheets). They require a 1/8” gap at the ends to allow for expansion/contraction of the sheets (due to change in moisture in the air).
Question... At 5:14 you nail the bottom half of the fastener but the you use screws on the top half. Why not use just nail or just screws. Why both.
Great question, on the top, because I’m going into the joist, I only have 1.5” so you have to use a special screw from Simpson which is equivalent to using a 3” long mail.
Love the build. Amazing work. Only thing I would've done differently is use screws instead of nails. But I dont have the skillset to get 90% of this done. Bravo
Thanks a lot! I appreciate it