Climbing Styles: The GrandMaster
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2021
- Jain Kim is a pretty special rock climber; today I try to figure out how she does it. Keep an eye out for the Chaehyun cameo.
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How To Climb Efficiently - Ice Climbing | Climbing Daily, Ep. 673
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Can y'all weirdos stop commenting how attractive Jain Kim is please
it's 2021, we need to stop objectifying women
lol
exactly, we need to start objectifying men since it's 2021 now. Cmon gang
Shut up simplord. She is a beautiful specimen that we are must make others aware of so how the fuk is it objectifying.
@@jeygee3736 imagine asking how something is objectifying in the same sentence as referring to someone as a "beautiful specimen"
So we can’t compliment women now?
Never watched a rock climbing video in my life, and suddenly I’m introduced to a world of skill, technique, and artistry. Nice.
I accidentally let UA-cam play overnight. Got a little of the old-school random video selection out of it.
You've started with Master. Kim is poetry on the wall.
Simping for Jain Kim for over 10 minutes? Let's go
My one true passion
Yes
Sheeeeeeeesh
No simping here imo
Let's fuckin goooooo
I enjoyed watching it and learning more about her career. However, a few things worth noting about the "triangle position". I would argue that all professional lead climbers try to climb efficiently, and based on different strengths and weaknesses (height, weight, body type), climb differently. The triangle position isnt a magical technique that, if other climbers applied it, they would become significantly better. There are plenty of examples in lead competition of climbers of all experience using the "triangle position". Her decisions to smear over back flagging is an interesting point. A smear would give you some height and another point on the wall to push away from. A backflag would keep you equalized until your body starts to move again. Maybe here, we see an example of better technique over attributing her success to the magical triangle. There are many things at play here. An important note is that Kim Jain is 5 feet and 93 pounds. Extremely small and light. She also does NOT compete in bouldering, which means she dedicates herself entirely to specializing in sport climbing.
I saw an interesting video comparing her hold/minute pacing to other competition climbers. There are climbers who go faster and slower that her, but her pace seems to be the litmas test for the success other climbers in that competition. Meaning, she seems to be able to find the optimal pace for each route.
I also think you meant to touch on her use of momentum, which is an extremely useful tool for short people. But that does not undermine her sheer strength/weight ratio. Again, she is very small and rarely do we see her scrunched up but constantly extended. There are many ways to climb extended problems, but especially with short climbers we see several trends. Firstly, power. Climbing statically is no easy task, and deep pulls/lockoffs at extended angles require lots of energy and tension. Second, use of momentum, efficient use of momentum and deadpoint precision. Third, smearing to maximum efficiency and reach. Fourth, flexibility. In this video you can clearly see just how flexible Jain is. Another trend is squareness to the wall, which requires plenty of physical strength to maintain constant tension throughout the body to ensure deliberate and efficient movement.
There are many more, but when I think of Jain, these are some of the features in her climbing that I see.
Great video, for future videos however, I think it is worth to consider morphology in climbing style, in which there are very distinct trends, as well as trends in their climbing careers to help explain things. In South Korea, there are very few successful professional climbers, and we are always super proud of Jain and Chongwon!
Nice video & Great comment! 💪 Greetings from Poland 😆
Great comment! For me.....I love her deadpointing and momentum it's something I can't get enough watching that, learnig, learning, learning. But.... you pointed out an interesting video about compering her hold/minute pacing to other climbers. Do you perhaps a link of the video? thnx. Greetings from Holland
Hey this is an awesome comment! I really appreciate your breakdown. You're totally right, the triangle isn't a magical fixture that should be substituted in every scenario, and Jain isn't the only one who uses it. Your point about squareness was something I had in the original script, but deleted because the video felt like it was dragging.
You're correct - there are so many elements to her climbing that I didn't touch on that you pointed out. Really just goes to show how great of a climber she is and how many micro-adjustments she makes all the time.
I assume you feel the same way about Jain as I do about Sean McColl and Alannah Yip! She's truly an all-time great, and it looks like you guys have another star in the making with Chaehyun!
That's what I was thinking while watching. Also - I am not sure if I remember correctly, I believe that in one competition commentators said that she also has something like +10cm ape index. I might remember it wrong though.
@@ascentionism I would argue that at least in the example you cited for the triangle position, they generally point to her strengths in shoulders and tension, rather than the application of a magical technique. Additionally, wrt Puurs in 2015, given the difference in height I think it's unlikely that doing the volume smear would have been useful for Jessie or Anak.
She is poetry in motion. =)
Every time I watch her climbing she reminds me russian ballet dancer Maya Plisetskaya. So elegant
Lol such an overused term
@@bryanbryan6108 she?
What stands out to me the most is the static, fluid motion: whenever possible, she keeps three points planted and moves the fourth hand/foot.
yes I feel like this is a strength of static climbers! Way better at keeping three points of contact (I'm a dynamic climber lol)
And THIS is the exact reason I am mad furious about businessmen saying "who wants to watch jain kim for 8 minutes, fucking boring get out of here" and then they reduce the time limit to 6 minutes and pack every single lead route full of dynos.
I've always enjoyed watching Kim Jain climb. Her movements are so smooth and precise, like a flow. It is weirdly calming.
I think Ai Mori is good idea for this kind of video - what she does is extraordinary. She's super skinny, looks like her bones are gonna break and also looks like she has no strength or power but somehow she can use her lightweight, generate real power and she even beat Nonaka during last Japan Bouldering Cup (YT channel: JMSCA Competition TV, date: 31 january 2021, competition: 16th Japan World Cup finals). She has some great route-learning skills - sees a boulder, tries it, looks like she has no idea what she's doing, takes a thought and then just does it easy... and with each Japan Cup she's getting so much better at it.
That's a great idea! I'll definitely watch some more of her film
Absolutely agree: her style is the essence of what lead climbing is or should be. Sadly competition climbing has recently moved more and more towards something that favours styles which are more geared towards general audiences: more dynos, faster climbing (e.g. the reduction of time available for World championship lead climbing events), moves that require raw power more than technique.
Great analysis on the use of the triangle. Jain has a lot more going on than her climbing technique. Her mental state is first class, you seldom if ever see her panic or show signs of fatigue during a climb, she will be calm and composed right up to the moment her body lets go and pops off. You're always surprised when she falls off the wall, because you're so used to seeing other climbers give a tell that they are in trouble. This again factors into her efficiency in climbing. Another way she maximises her effciency is her quickdraw flicking. If a draw isn't in the perfect position for clipping, she flicks the draw with her hand or feet, and clips in on the return swing of the draw. This reduces energy waste. Many climbers go out of position when trying to clip, wasting energy in the process
As a novice climber I wish someone just yelled at me on my first day like a secret sensei: “make triangles”🔺🔻
Buuuut theres a reason its uncommon. The heavier you are the harder it is. Nevertheless its a nice trick to do if you don't know what to do else:D
Great video! I've only been climbing for little under a year, and I find analysis like this really helpful and useful for my own development. Liked & subscribed!
I loved the video, thanks for this series it really is amazing. I learn so much from these breakdowns, and I can also appreciate their climbing more. Thank you a ton for these, I'm sure they take a ton of work and I'm super thankful for them.
Watching Kim Jain in many ways brought me into rock climbing.
Great analysis! I love her climbing style, so I'll have to try it out when I'm next at the gym.
Beautiful movements. Love her style, too
Honestly such a good video, love the editing style story telling and not to mention the amazing climbing. Great vid
Thanks! I checked out some of your videos and loved them - keep crushing!
dude, it is like a ritual to me, whenever I feel downed or exhausted I just come and see this video, Idk why I am doing this but you made a spectacular video.
I vote for endless breakdowns of her other climbs
I would watch this. This and ondra please
Me too!
Great analysis about the triangle, learn a lot from it, thx.
Love herrr!! Never thought about the triangles!!! Definitely gonna implement them !! Great video 🤩
Amazing video as always!
kim jain is like the kim yuna of climbing (world champion figure skater known for her technique, precision and artistry)
as a very short climber, seeing jain on the wall gives me both hope and insight, a better understanding if you will of mouvements. i love climbing for many reasons, i really really do, it scares me how much i love it, and mouvements gotta be one of the reasons. i often imagine that her meticulous execution of technique, micro adjustments, foot swaps that are almost second nature to her climbing in order to find better body positioning/triangle to push off her feet and gain reach, all that smearing- is somewhat a result of her having to find drills like these and practice them over and over again from the beginning of her climbing career. I'm a shit climber, and i don't mean to compare myself to jain kim in any way- but i see that trend in short climbers who have to think harder and apply certain techniques from the start, even on their first juggy beginner route that everyone else just reaches the next hold keeping both their feet secure. It's quite frustrating until you accept that you just need to climb differently, with higher feet, better body positioning, better endurance, and honed problem solving skill. Then rarely, when being tiny is an advantage- (as can be, sometimes) we get to fully, fully savour the joy and privilege. anyway, just thinking that facing all the relative difficulties in climbing due to my height could, may be, mean that i'm getting closer to jain's climbing style than i would've been had i been taller, is a consolation and motivation. That is, if i instead of giving up, find a way to solve the problem even though that means i'll struggle on what some 2 weeks gym climber flashes.
I'm super short too, and I love watching Jain Kim and Aishima Shurishi (if that's how you spell it) especially because of how they use their feet, and how precise they are with their foot and hand placement. It's definitely the technique I want to emulate. Solving spacial problems creatively is one of my favorite things about climbing. I suppose that as a short person I'm going to have a lot more problems to solve--and that's not a bad thing! I just need to work on my flexibility.
I just saw this video and thought "that's exactly how I climb!" I'm doing so many of these techniques just because I'm on the short side and on climbing gyms there's lots of tall people building the routes for people of at least average height.
I'm using the triangle, I'm smearing or balancing with my second foot all the time when the next hold is just too far away, I keep myself tensioned and close to the wall, I think about every move, slowly try it and correct it if it doesnt work out... I'm just not as flexible in any way. ;-)
My girlfriend, who is even shorter, started to emulate all these techniques years ago also and is quite successful with it now. But sometimes our small difference in reach can make a route a grade or two harder for her and practically impossible.
But short climbers, do not despair, head into the great outdoors! We recently started actual rock climbing and it's a whole new world with a thousand possibilities to move and not just one next hold you just cant reach...it's great for us!
The triangle position is really interesting! It's very different to how I climb, I'll have to try it and see how it goes!
Has always been inspired by Kim Ja In. thanks for sharing this. especially the great breakdown on the Triangle. Best example picked. Well done mate.
Fellow Canadian here! Kim Jain is always such a joy and wonder to watch. She's always in control, always so elegant and efficient. The most impressive thing is how she can effortlessly rest on impossible looking holds!
I also really enjoy watching Jule Wurm for her deliberate movements (especially her foot work!)
Seeing her climb makes my Jaw drop every Time. Even Ice Skaters or Dancers can't compare to the Grace her movement radiates
She is by far my favorite rock climber and the biggest Inspiration.
I know nothing about climbing and have never watched it, but I found this video super interesting and it held my interest. So good job
I subbed because you made this awesome video of my favorite climber. Thanks bud!
her flexibility is impressive
Fascinating, thank you! I know nothing about climbing except that I love to watch it. Any insight into the technique is fantastic. Because at this stage I am sure that all rock climbers have some mystical crystal in their pocket which allows them to defy gravity.
Instructive, thanks. Recognising when it makes sense to smear on the wall, rather than just using the footholds available, is something that doesn't happen until after having already failed on my first attempt (and most likely, I'll fail a few more times trying with just the holds, before widening my vision and trying something different). Fascinating to see that same blind spot popping up among the professionals at ~ 9:50.
"If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of Giants." Jain Kim is a 5ft giant.
The most amazing competition climber we've ever seen without a doubt.
Her problem solving on the fly, her technique, her strength for power to weight ratio would be phenomenal.
She's humble quietly spoken but her climbing speaks for her. I've learnt more watching this amazing beautiful lady than any other climber...yes I've learnt a lot from Ondra but not everyone has his strengths. So to learn as a beginner Kim is the perfect climbing technique absolute finesse.
Awesome vid and i completely agree with you.
10:51 ouch! ...and wow!
Thank you for the commentary Ascetionism. Very clear also for non-climbers.
Damn what a beautiful beast! Just started climbing today!
Great observation and analysis!
Great video as always, thanks...Sam✌️
That beginning dude I was so confused lol kinda mad til you said this is a rock climbing video xD
Love your videos ! Thank you
Fantastic video. I loved this. Nice work buddy 👍👍
Amazing insight and inspiration! Especially for a beginner climber like me! Thanks so much!
youtube suddenly started recommending all these kim jain videos to me a few months ago and i know nothing about rock climbing but i stan her anywya
Awesome series idea! Subscribed immediately 🤙
Brilliant you explain it so well
great video! I know nothing about climbing but this was really interesting to watch
Wonderful video that I learned a lot from. She makes it look effortless.
Useful analysis, thanks!
I think you did an amazing job contextualizing her expertise by using the other sports comparisons. Great narration.
It's like ballet on the wall. So graceful, strong and precise.
Bravo! Thanks a lot!!! Great vid
Great video, interesting comments...just keep it going, you are doing an awesome job with these:)
That was great, i have a new appreciation for her after passing over what I thought was a basic style for flashier climbers like Janja.
Thank you for the technique breakdown! I loved the examples of the triangle position and she is an incredible climber. Keen to practice this on the walls!
Thanks! I know, I can't wait for stuff to open up so I can see if this can be worked into my own climbing.
Also - I checked out your channel and love your videos! Some great info there
Kim Jain/Kim Yuna- they are all legends in their own ways
it's a kim family affair.
don forget kim jung either.
So much wisdom for life and climbing in this video
I just started and it was my instinct to climb dynamically. This video is neat and has inspired me to climb more like Jain, thank you!
Neither style is really better than the other. But if you're starting out, I think focusing on static climbing will pay off in the long run. Ultimately both skills are good to have.
Such a beautiful display of ingenuity
This woman gets it done.
Amazing. A true athlete. Energy in the right places at the right time.
Amazing!!
Gonna be trying this triangle thing out when I get back to the gym!
Great video! Jain Kim is my favorite climber and I'd love to see more climbers pace and use heel hooks like her :)
Thanks guys!
This is the first clubbing video I’ve ever seen and I’m so glad it was of this climber!! She’s incredibly impressive!
I'm liking this only because of climbing autocorrect mishap :)
Then check Janja Garnbret and be amazed.
@@roadto200million Well that’s embarrassing! It seems I’ll never learn to stop using the swipe to type option when making comments. While convenient, it frustratingly sometimes changes the previous word written & I don’t notice.
@@simonsimcic8154 Thanks for the suggestion!
@@SuperLadyDanger don't be sorry, it's great! It gave us such a fun comment and put a smile on our faces. Also it's really convenient, I'm using it right now
Gracias! Un video muy interesante y muy distinto a lo que estaba acostumbrado a ver sobre el rubro! Suscrito!
Amazing!
Kim Ja-in is Such an inspiration for rock climbing and sports in general.
I was lucky to meet her and got autograph, picture and talked for a few mins at the ifsc lead World Cup in 2017.
For sure she suited the 8 min time limit and longer routes. I wasn’t a fan of the 6 min time limit rule when it came in place.
I was in tears watching her last win at Japan in 2019, I think it was Japan or Slovenia she had last win and still holds most gold medals, Janja is close to overtaking Jain but then the pandemic hit in 2020 as everyone knows it effected world sports for a long time and still at the time of writing this comment.
Kim Jain is very fluid and methodical climber with great power to weight ratio and endurance like no other human.
She is up there with other great humans and athletes like Micheal Phelps, Bruce Lee.
Phenomenal sports person and angelic beautiful personality.
Ai Mori is the next Kim Jain: slow, intentional, meticulous, efficient. Great video. Thank you!
Ai Mori also seems to experiment with different methods of getting the next hold and form triangles with her legs a lot.
Amazing video and I totally agree. I remember the first time I saw her climb my jaw dropped. She instantly became the climber I most wanted to be able to move like.
I could not agree more. First time I saw Kim climb, and each time since, it is instantly clear she is the most graceful and efficient climber I've ever seen.
aint even a climber but was super interesting. subbed
I keep watching climbing vids to See if I can find stuff to add to my arsenal of moves and techniques. most of the time the things that they describe are things that I subconciously do when climbing as it just feels more stable or more controlled. But this is something that I will defenately try to implement just to see how it feels for me, or if it is something that I already do without really realizing it.
She is so graceful.
my queen
awesome vid :)
I found the triangle analysis very helpful. I'm interested in learning more about this sport from near-zero knowledge. The technical comments below are difficult for me to understand but triangles I can look for when I watch videos.
I'm glad you found it useful! Fyi I also find the technical comments confusing sometimes
Thank you thank you! She is inspirational and the way in which you've broken down the when's how's and why's of her moves is really helpful for this novice climber. Plus, I agree with others. she is poetry in motion for sure.
My palms are sweaty just by looking at her, really enjoyed watching my first rock climbing video 😂
"every time she steps on the wall, I know just I'm witnessing a masterful display."
Interesting ! 🙂
great
For those wondering she did not compete at the Olympics due to a finger injury but instead she provided the commentary during the climbing events on KBS
Oh really? I looked around wondering why she wasn't competing when the Olympic line up was released and she wasn't on it but couldn't find anything. I chalked it up to her recently having a baby, though she's been working hard in the gym so I have no doubt we'll see her back competing.
i know nothing about this sport but it was interesting to learn about it :)
She's amazing athlete and the best
verry cool
Your introduction is great and your video is great too 👍
Hahah thanks! I thought this intro definitely dragged a bit but I'm glad you liked it
She is a gift!
Good catch with the triangle. I couldn't put words to it.
One minor comment: I don't think she *rests* her other foot against the wall. She engages it as much as is efficient. In the videos you can often see, how she slowly loads the smearing foot a bit more.
What's IMO also outstanding about her style, is her perfect timing on deadpoints. Other climbers overshoot, often on purpose to gain time grabbing and loading the hold; she rarely does that.
would love to see a breakdown of a boulder specialist - maybe Jimmy Web, Daniel Woods or Paul Robinson?
Yea
How about a video on Puccio reclaiming her title?
Man, if only there was a breakdown of her at the Vail 2018 world cup where she came first after a 10-year drought, that would be sick
@@ascentionism that would be awesome I really wish somebody on UA-cam would talk about that 😞
Agreed, the comparison between Jimmy and Daniel would be very interesting. 5 inches in height and 17kg in weight difference is bound to change how they move despite often climbing the same boulders that are freaky hard.
The triangle is described from the lead hand, and not the head. The lead hand is the fulcrum and the legs should be placed on either side lateral location of the handhold.
Nice video.
I don't pretend to know anything about climbing, but I noticed two things about this climber that is different than others I have seen climb.
First impression is that her climbing constantly makes me think of sloths. Methodical and somewhat hypnotic.
And second, in all the shots you provided I don't think I saw a single time where she drops an arm and shakes it out. Frequent arm shake seems to be de rigueur with the other climbers I have watched.
To me she channels the forms taught in karate or tail chi rather than being a display of raw athleticism.
Hello, I don't suppose you have the answer since the table comes from Wiki but when showing her gold medals at 2:41 she has 29. Whereas I only counted 26, for example in 2011 the table shows 5 gold but if you check the IFSC website she only had 3 that year, Changzhi, Puurs and Kranj. Is something else being counted? Is the Wiki wrong? Or the IFSC website?
I have no idea about that, sorry! I would guess that the wiki page is wrong - maybe it was counting non-IFSC events? Or maybe it just got entered wrong
She is my idol!!!
shes the best!
I've been watching a rock climbing youtuber named Magnus Midtbo. If you could do a breakdown on his powerful, upper-arm-focused, I would be thrilled to watch it!
nice nice
i just started learning how to climb, and it was a little disheartening to realize that i was the shortest person in my class...but seeing kim jain do all these amazing things at 5'0 (same height as me!) makes me feel incredible :D here's hoping smearing becomes less scary over time, ahah...
2:20, true start, you’re welcome