GMC Sierra 2500hd lower control arm replacement
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- In this video I replace the lower control arms on an 03 GMC Sierra 2500hd.
I attribute my successes to god and give him the glory.
“Have not I commanded thee? Be strong and of a good courage; be not afraid, neither be thou dismayed: for the LORD thy God is with thee whithersoever thou goest.”
Joshua 1:9 KJV
Upper control arm replacement: GMC Sierra 2500hd upper control arm replacement • GMC Sierra 2500hd uppe... - Авто та транспорт
Superb video, it shows that there are a few aspects of this job that will cause a slow down in the parts removal, torsion bar removal from the lower control arm being the biggest issue. "Thanks for you time"
Thank you for this. I'm changing out the entire front suspension on my buddy's 2001 GMC Sierra 2500 4wd next week and needed to know what sizes of sockets I'll need to tackle this without any issues. Showing the torque specs was great. I screenshot it so I don't have to look everything up!
No problem. Glad I could help.
Great video, I've done quite a few, it's always the sway bar links and torsion bar removal that's a pain in the butt!
So thankful I'm in California and I can use a garbage air hammer to pop the LCA off of the torsion bar.
Yeah that must be nice. Don’t think I don’t imagine moving south every year. Working on rusty vehicles is like being able to speak a dead language. It’s not in books and half the world has only ever heard about it. 😁
Great real-time repair video. I wonder if I can pull out that torsion bar out of that LCA without a lift. I guess you need wiggle room to swing that hammer and strike that LCA.
Thanks sir for posting.
Great video. I bet if you used pb blaster that torsion bar would have come out easier
Wheeew!! Nice real-time repair video. I wonder if I can hammer out that LCA from the torsion bar without a lift. I guess you need wiggle space to swing that hammer.
Thanks sir for the video.
One side the torsion bar came out of the key on the back side and you can pull it out with it in the lower control arm. I had to heat that one with a torch to get it out of the control arm. It was a fighter. I’ve done it on a jack stand before. I use the lift because I’m spoiled and it’s there and easier to work on. It ruined me for driveway repairs, I’ll take the time and drive to the lift now.
Thanks we needed the torque specs bro and the instruction.
No problem. Glad I could help.
Great video. Thanks for posting.
No problem, thank you for watching it.
I’m planning to swap out a set of these on a dually 4wd soon. I’m really glad you mentioned this to me a while back. I wouldn’t h been prepared for the torsion arms being loaded. Can you recall where that tool came from?
Thanks too for being so free to express your faith on your channel. Love the verses in KJV too. Don’t see a lot of that, it’s an important detail to me.
I got the tool off of eBay. It was a torsion bar unloading tool. I think it was like 25 dollars. They are different for some of the years. I like to share the verses from the Bible so people can actually read some of what it says. With how the world is going I’m not so sure there is much time left. I don’t know if it will make a difference but it can’t hurt to try. Here’s praying for a pre tribulation rapture.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic eBay is typically my go to for those kind of kinds too. Looks like I flat has hit though, they’re close ti twice that now.
Jason I like the way you think about the scripture. It is powerful!! Now after seeing the KJV and hearing you mention the pre-trib rapture you’re definitely my kinda guy. Even so come Lord Jesus and please let us gather more people into your kingdom as the day approaches.
Thanks
I have a 06 hd. I just did my uppers and need to do my lower. Kinda scares me only because of the bars. I've never done anything related to torqu bars.. I've rebuilt engine replaced just about everything on a vehicle but not tourque bars.
There not bad the only issues I’ve had were the bars getting stuck in the control arms or the keys. I would get the tool to remove the bolts from the keys. They can get strip without them. I’ve removed them without the clamp tool and been fine but it’s only like $20 so I got it for this video.
Do you recommend swapping the LCAs or just replacing the bushings/ball joint? No quality/strength issues being foreign made?
If you need just ball joints I would replace just the ball joints but I opted to replace the whole lower control arm because I needed new bushings. I didn’t have any problems with them being foreign. They seemed ok while I had it, I’ve sold the truck a few months ago.
I'm wondering if you just replaces the bushing do.you need to do.all that? Yes take pressure off the bars but can't you just pop the end with bushings down just enough to get them out and new ones In
You might be able to. I haven’t changed the bushings on them so I don’t know what’s Involved in changing them to be able to verify if you can do it on the vehicle. If you get the key off the back of the rod you should be able to slide the control arm with the rod attached out of the vehicle. There isn’t anything special to the torque bars. I just marked where they were to make sure I put them back in in the same place.
I did do the bushings and that was a real time consuming job. I took the entire arm off and used a 20 ton press. Just buy the new CA. Take my advice. It was a real tough job.
I liked and subscribed but then saw that you sold the truck a ways back. However i have a question if you don't mind. All im really working on is replacing my front shocks. I have a 3 inch rough country lift and im having a difficult time replacing my front shocks with the same RC shocks i had. Top bushings wouldn't compress enough to get top nut started so i tried to get a little more pivot on the lower control arm by loosening the bolts a bit (didn't make a difference). My question is, if bring them back to proper torque spec of 129 ftlb's, is alignment still okay? I only see alignment pins on uppers. I didnt replace any other parts other than sway bar links? Did cracking those a little loose mess with anything?
I don’t think you would throw off the alignment by loosening the bolts on the lower control arms. Like you said there isn’t any adjustment on them so it wouldn’t be anything I would be too concerned with. Just make sure you have the weight on the suspension when you torque the bolts so the bushing will be at ride hight when you torque them. If they are torqued with out weight on them when you put weight on them the twist of the bushing can rip the rubber in them.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic very good sir, I appreciate the speedy reply and understand what you mean. Preloading those bushings in a sense. Thanks again, God bless
Super helpful video! Do you think it's necessary, or do you recommend using red--or blue--LocTite on the LCA mounting bolts?
I can’t remember if I used a thread lock or not on those bolts. I would think blue would be ok if you want to use it. It couldn’t hurt and would probably be a good idea to do.
I can’t remember if I used a thread lock or not on those bolts. I would think blue would be ok if you want to use it. It couldn’t hurt and would probably be a good idea to do.
How did you clock the torsion bar with the key after you removed it completely? I just replaced my upper and lowers and now the torsion bar has zero resistance on it. The torsion bar is loose with the bolt on the key all the way tight. Thanks.
I marked the location on the key and bar before I removed it so I knew where to put it for assembly.
Your probably one flat off can you rotate the key to the next position? It should just fit with the wheel hanging all the way down. I think you can drive the bar out to the front without taking everything apart if the weight is off it and the vehicle on stands.
Do you really have to change drive axles that much? I only broke one ever and I had them at their limits for a good 45k of hard use. And my Duramax is still on the factory ones and over 200k including some sled pulls
I can’t remember if I gave a time frame in the video. I haven’t really wore any out, I usually need to change them because of a broken boot. You can get just the boot but they don’t usually cost that much so I just swap the whole thing. I guy I work with has a lifted 2012 2500 and he wears them out pretty quickly but they are at a pretty good angle. He has a 4-6 inch lift I believe.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic got it. You didn't give a time frame just said that they usually don't rust in place and get stuck because they get changed so often. 🤷 They're impressively strong but get a bad rap because people run them way beyond spec
Oh ok I remember now. I found the boots are more the issues I have with them and the aftermarket parts don’t usually hold up as long as the factory parts it’s not really a broken shaft issue for me.
Jason,
Thanks for the video on 2500HD, I have a 1999 GMC Suburban K2500 with forged lower control arms on the front.
get ready to replace every thing on the front end. my 2 questions, when watching the video
1. The torsion bar when back together easily compared to the "Hammer Time" to take it apart? just wondering why?
You can swing a hammer like a beast brother!!
2. Did u use a press to install the lower control arm bushings? Thanks Michael
Hello
Rust and dirt build up in the key where the torsion bars go in once you get it apart it knocks a lot of it out. I might have wire wheeled them before I put them back together too. I actually got a upper and lower control arm kit off of eBay. It came with the bushings and ball joints installed. I didn’t have a press at the time and it seemed like an easy alternative and was actually pretty cheap for my truck. It was around $200. I usually don’t like cheap parts but they had a lifetime guarantee and it’s my winter vehicle. I had a 99 Tahoe that I replaced the lower control arm bushings and I had to remove the front differential because the rear bolt would hit the inner axle flange and wouldn’t come out. I don’t know about on the 2500 but a possibility to look out for.
Unfortunately I do more swinging with that hammer then I would like. Thank you for watching and don’t hesitate if you have any more questions. I’ll answer them if I can.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic Jason
thanks again for taking your time to respond, my 1999 GMC K2500 is 6.5 diesel that an older coupe (no kids) had in Virginia but has been garaged most of it life. I have a 1999 Chevy 6.5 Suburban C1500 2WD with coil springs, and this GMC with torsional bar suspension rides so much better, plus the K2500 has 1 ton brakes that are exceptional. I think I'll soak the that hex location with PB Blaster 2-3 times prior to disco,
then try yo separate. Thanks for the verse Joshua 1:9, maybe go back and capitalize the g with "G" in God..
thanks again
Cut the nut and buy a new one put it back through the other side on the older one
That tie rod doesnt look good either...
Good eye. I actually changed all the tie rods also I just didn’t film it. They are pretty cheap and easy to change so if I’m going to go get an alignment I like to just replace them all rather than have to change the other ones later and need to get another alignment.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic I hear ya...I'm changing out my upper, lower control arms, knuckle, hub, tie rods, pitman arms and idler arm and bracket...broke two Jack's trying to seperate the ball joints and no budge. So, I suppose I need to take them out as one unit or cut the ball joints...rusty ass Minnesota...lol
Sound like it’s a fighter. The bracket where the lower control arm bolted to the frame on this one was pretty thin on the drivers side where the bushing was touching it. I had to clamp a price of copper to the bracket and just keep welding over it and ground it down to thicken it back up. I would think Chuvy could have used some thicker material on the parts that hold the wheels on. I found a whole front end kit on eBay that came with the control arms the sway bar links and tie rods. It was pretty reasonable.