How to replace idler arm, pitman arm and tierods on a 2006 Duramax
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- Опубліковано 2 гру 2017
- Replacing the pitman arm, idler arm, idler arm bracket and tie rods on a 2006 Duramax. While I was in there I also installed Bilstein 5100 front shock absorbers.
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Good job, dude. Very informative and very good camera work.
The idler bracket grease hose is meant to be installed so every oil change you can easily oil the top grease fitting. Mine was run to near the wheel for easy access
Great informative video. Just bought a nice 03 1500 z71 I have to put a transmission in, and the week I did, my 07 2500hd classic starts acting up. 😅 so I'm about to have to do this on two separate trucks lol I've done it before 10 yrs ago, bur this was a great refresher!
Many guys suggest removing your Steering box but you really don't need to. If you leave one bolt (loosened a bit) holding it in place, it allows you to pivot the box enough to get a socket on the pitman arm nut. It also will give you just enough room to get your puller on it and pop it loose. I am replacing mine now after I had the pitman arm ball joint snap completely. I am replacing the Idler arm and all tie-rods too while I'm under it. My new shop doesn't have a lift yet and it sucks to be old and laying on the floor but it is doable. Moog offers HD parts which are very good. I didn't think I needed to spend the extra $$$ for aftermarket parts for driving on the street.
Well done John,same year as mine but wish I had a lift like you.
While I am in there I will change to those Bilstein shocks, I tow and my shocks are
original I think. From Vancouver. BC.
So long as you can get under the truck with free arm movement you will be okay. The hardest part is getting the entire assembly out of there. For that it is nice to have extra room. With regards to the shocks, they helped the ride, but otherwise didn't do a lot. I actually ended up putting liftmaster airbags in the back as my rear springs were shot. That was the biggest issue on the suspension.
Thank you very much for posting 😊
Great video man . It helped me out today ! Did both Pitman arm and idler arm and steering stabilizer
Does it feel a lot stiffer and drive better?
Dirtymax2500hd t Hundred times better
Love Midland playing in the back ground!
Im doing it on the ground, and you are correct sir, it is no fun. Good video
Same my new least favorite thing to do!
FANTASTIC video!!!!
Thanks for sharing brother, definitely learning from your video. Also i think its awesome having truck parts on your wood working tools Haha. Awesome!
TheChrisAndHollieShow
Good video. You don't need a puller on the outer tie rod ends. A good sharp rap or two with a hammer usually breaks them loose. An air hammer works to if you have one. Then the puller worked well for you. Just offering the alternatives for others. I'm about to do my 2500HD and dread taking the snow plow frame off to do it.
The1700Rider that’s what you should have bought a fisher zero frame just ears idk what anyone would put a plow frame on any truck now a days eha ?
Nice video. One thing, if you move the steering box, you should remove the power steering lines and the steering shaft. The reason you remove the shaft (one bolt and pry it away) is because when you twist the steering box you run the risk of damaging the seals in the power steering box. Only about $12 in parts (new seals) but you pretty much want to drop the steering box again for that.
Thanks! I must be lucky as I haven't had any leaks since.
Not looking fwd to this. Tks for the video.
I’m about to attempt this on my 05 once the parts arrive. Thanks for the informative video! I’m nervous about getting that pitman arm off. I’ve had trouble with those in the past. I have that exact same play in the front end as you do.
Jesse Winchester good luck! The pitman wasn’t as bad as the “ball joint” ends. Take the time to order a two jaw puller and the pitman puller. Those forks aren’t worth their weight. The job is do-able. Just take your time.
John Molberg thanks! I will be sure to get the pullers handy to do the job. I’ll let you know how it goes when the parts come in. Hopefully it warms up. Was -25 here in invermere bc the other day!
Just one thing. MOOG makes great components however those tie rod ends are little wimpy if your going to go through the effort of doing all that work go with Kryptonite death grip, DMAX Heavy duty or PPE stage three, tie rod ends then your work will last longer for those dirt roads ! And not to criticize but I noticed that the driver side axel housing is leaking. As much of a pain in the wazzu it is to disassemble and replace the -O- rings while its up in the air why not !
Yeahhhh buddy ! DmaxStore for the win! Check out my Instagram @CanDoCamsDuramax
🤘🏼🇺🇸
I have the Rareparts tie rod ends, I believe PPE copied them or rebranded them.
Thank you.
Great vid thanks bud. Going to do this job today. On jack stands uggggg. Sucks i dont have a hoist avail ! Hoping it goes smooth and i get it with out busting to many knuckles lol
I’m contemplating doing the pitman and idler myself AND on jack stands. How did it go? Any pointers?
@@Vahliant0 Gonna soon do it myself on my 2011 3500. Also on the jacks. How did that go for you guys?
@@marcelo403polo2 it went well. Make sure you use blue lock tight on the large nut on the pitman arm. It will vibrate loose. Also, tap the top of the bolt on the puller with a mini sledge when you have it tight. Should give the puller what it needs to finish separating the two part. Almost bent my puller arms too far out to us again.
What would the corresponding ‘rear’ shocks be for the truck?
Great video. Looking to do this myself. What wheels are those? Those have the exact style i want but i cant seem to find them. Thanks
Sorry I don't have that info. These wheels came with the truck when I got it from my dad. He just bought them at a shop somewhere... likely Kaltire in Calgary.
@@johnniemo on the sidewalk of both sides off the tire will have it name model number and size of the tire all the guy needs is the model number
@@frankswanda1814 he's asking about the wheel, not the tire.
What size was the nut on the pitman arm at the steering box?
Would it have been easier to take the tie rods and center link out first to get to the idler and pitman arms?
It is a 1 5/16" wrench. I suppose it might be easier to get it out by removing the center link first. My memory is already a bit foggy on the job. There may be reasons why that wouldn't work.... I can't remember.
I like your garage setup. what type of lift you have there, how much room does it take. I take it this is your home setup. Nice.
It is a Lift King Pro King 8. It's obviously a bit small for the Duramax, but I made it work. I actually did another video on that process. You can get larger ones, but my garage is only 22 feet wide, so this was really the max.
Question about the nut joining the idler arm to the bracket part. When I tighten this nut down, The idler arm seems to be too tight and it won't swivel on the bracket part. Do I back the nut off so it can swivel, or will the nut be too loose? 11:50 on the video.
Well there is a torque setting. In the video I had to guess. But yes it needs to swivel or it won't work very well. You can add some locktite to be sure.
Did you install the ball joints for the control arms after?
Daniel Saloka it turned out they were okay so I left them. I’ve done ball joints before and they are a chore.
Kryptonite idler arm tie rods are worth the money
Just wondering if all those parts fits on a 04 dmax
Very likely. Just go to the Moog website and they will tell you.
Should have replaced string dampener shock when ha had it all apart but great video
Thanks for the comment. In all the videos I watched prior I never saw this suggestion. I also never came across the part number. I just assumed things would be fine as is. So far it has totally changed the drive-ability of the truck. I'm not sure how the damper would change it.
Try a hammer to break loose outer tie rods, watch a video on it. Away quicker.
How did the truck drive after everything was replaced?
It drives perfectly now. The back and forth "wobble" is completely gone. The shocks also helped fix the up and down oscillations.
@@johnniemo thanks for the video. Really good info.
What kind on shocks do you installed?
Why didnt You go for the Moog k6654HD?
Einar Thordarsson no particular reason. It looks like it should work too.
Did you put your outer tie rod in the knuckle upside down?
It installed it the way it was installed when I found it. I don't think it would fit any other way.
John Molberg
I have the exact same truck Duramax and year...everything the same. Mine is castle nut is on bottom with zerk fitting is on top.
@@sirsweetness8332 Weird. So long as the alignment works I think it should be okay. It's possible whoever did my truck before did it backwards.... or the same for your case. I do recall the zerk fitting on my last truck was on top.
I looked some more. It would appear that lifted trucks install it on top while stock trucks it goes on the bottom. See here.. www.duramaxforum.com/forum/general-discussion/874769-my-tie-rods-installed-wrong.html
Good video but you used the castle nut for the outer tie rod as the jam nut
Crap he did. I'm sure the alignment guy had a good giggle
Kryptonite
It can be done without removing the steering box.
I hate the fact that they use tiny tie rods and tie rod ends.
Do all these parts as well as the repairs go for a 2001 silverado 2500hd duramax?
I'm sure it has the same mechanisms, but likely different part numbers.
Part numbers may vary but 2001 to 2010 look identical. 2011 and up the truck frame changed but they still use same idea on parts, but are slightly beefier. Both pullers are necessary to have an easier job, pickle fork can be tough to swing a hammer in the pitman arm and idler arm areas. Careful not to bend the power steering lines when positioning the gearbox
Good on you to do work yourself. Moog is trash though.
What product do you recommend? I've used MOOG a few times with good results.
John Molberg i would say the best are kryptonite and rare parts, then ppe. For a quality stock equivalent replacement i would use Dmax Store brand.
Looks like a bunch of northern state vehicle problems 😂 my trucks an 2001 Duramax and has like zero rust on any of that stuff. I fell bad for y’all northerners