*I wanted to reiterate to anyone that owns a Kawasaki Ultra 310 that YOU MUST grease this pivot bushing regularly! I suggest doing this procedure within the first 10 hours, and atleast every 25 hours after that (when you change your oil) If you can’t do it, make sure your mechanic does it!* In this particular video I do the process without the Spring Holder tool- using the tool is recommended and makes installing the belt much easier. I realize not everyone owns this tool, which is why I demonstrate how to do this without the tool. I have other videos where I show how to use the tool.
It would make all the sense in the world to install zerk fitting somehow. Maybe drilling on the side of casing and taping threads and installing zerk and then drill penetrating pilot holes in the bushing itself to spread grease thru out. That would help with routine maintenance and lubrication without taking apart every time, and take apart and clean at every oil change or so.
100% Some people do that exact mod, and also Kawi Performance apparently sells a tension with a zirk and upgraded bearings. It should come with a zirk from the factory,..not sure why they have not added one!
@@JDsWaterWorldlooks like a lot of work for every 24 hours however if I can purchase tensioner with zerk to replace then this seems straight forward. Question JD. If I am just idling a couple of hours or traveling slowly to see shoreline do are these hours on the ski as stressful as aggressive riding. Meaning is the the type of hours put on the ski?
How was the test drive?? Did you buy it? lol. Yeah Zirk or the KP auto tensioner way to go. If you ride in fresh water and take it easy you will definitely reduce wear on the ski and ultimately reduce maintenance. I have been told that most of the wear occurs under heavy load and aggressive acceleration- so if you’re trying to be conservative with the machine, bring it up to speed slowly and back down from the top rpm lol. I am very hard on the throttle and run my ski hard..and thus go though 1-2 belts a year
@@JDsWaterWorldthank you sir. If I remove the belt plastic cover plate , will this expose enough of the belt for visual inspection? I did purchase your exact ski. Test rode for about one e hour and rode it hard!. Performed flawlessly. 65 mph no problem. Hoping to get out this week for my first ride after purchase. Wanting to get more acquainted with ski. My ski has 30 hours. Past owner said he followed break in instructions and took it in after 10 hours. He put about 19 hours on it and said he recently had oil and plugs changed. Hope so as I don’t have service records. I’m going over your videos for tools to purchase so I can work on ski, and then some ski accessories / products from your YT page.
As the owner of a 2020 Sea-Doo and a 2022 Yamaha, I was in the market for a new Ultra but was unfamiliar with the engine an maintenance it requires. Anyone that owns a 310 should thank you for the highly detailed DIY videos you have put out. They are some of the best DIY tutorial videos on youtube.
Whilst you have the tensioner assembly out of the ski, it’s worth while drilling and tapping a grease nipple into the pivot bore. Then you never need to remove it to grease it ever again.
Yes, many people do that. In my case, I was given the opportunity to upgrade to the Kawi Performance Auto Tensioner - which is extremely high quality and is almost entirely maintenance free
JD, Thanks for posting this detailed process. The detail of this post showed me that I can do this to my ski! Anytime you are able to show any maintenance procedures and have the time please post them! Just know you are helping out a lot of new ski owners like me and we all really appreciate it! Thanks again JD!
No problem at all, it’s not work for me at all, I love wrenching on this thing! I will be doing videos of the jet pump bearings next! Thank you for your support and for watching! If you haven’t already, I highly recommend purchasing the OEM service manual for this ski- it’s got all the toque specs, and official procedures for just about everything! A few tools and the right attitude and you can do anything yourself on this ski!
@@JDsWaterWorld I did get the Kawasaki service manual for this ski. I usually do all the work on my cars and motorcycles but I have never touched a ski. It really helps watching someone do it first!!! Thanks for posting all the great content JD!!
I wasn't sure if I would do my services myself or take the ski in, but based on your videos, I am going to do these items myself. That way, I know they were done and done properly. Thanks again for all your info.
100% the entire reason I posted these! You will save thousands a year on maintenance, as well as learn the machine inside and out. Thank you for taking the time to comment!
I’m embarrassed to admit that I have not done this to my ski yet. It has 111 hours 😬 will be doing it before my next ride. Perhaps a belt replacement too, as it looks to be slinging black dust…plus I’ll be in there anyway. I thought there was more to it than a few bolts. Thanks for the detailed video!
How do the ribs on the belt look? A bit of black dust is not terrible as the belt wears- but if the ribs are all chewed up for there is fraying then it's definitely time to replace. Greasing the pivot is simple with the spring holder tool..definitely something that should be done with every other oil change at a minimum
LOL, my 2011 Ultra 300LX has 200 hours on it and all I have done is plugs, oil changes, and lube the supercharger every time when I am done riding. Definitely needs a good 200 hour service, as this has been a great machine. Never let me down once!!
100% that is a great mod! I have been considering upgrading to the @Kawi Performance upgraded tensioner that has stainless bearings and eliminates the bushing altogether..but if I don’t get that I will be doing the Zirk mod
Jd waterworld your videos are really helpful and explanatory excellent work. I also own a 2023 310lx with speed stage 1 and love it . Would like to ask also if you have changed the fuel pump screen ? Is it necessary to remove the top console or is there an easier way around( asking since the manual states changing fuel screen every 25hrs) Thanks a lot
Thanks glad you like them! I have not- I did purchase the screen bag but have not installed it..you do need to remove the access panel which requires you to unbolt the console- actually not that bad maybe 10/12 bolts? There is also a chamber over the filter which I have been told restricts flow.. I imagine that very few people check it at 25 hours, I have been meaning to do mine, but I’ve been very busy. Hopefully ill get to do the video on it soon.
Hi there! Was trying to replace the belt in my kawasaki using your video as guidance. Everything was good till I got to the step of installing the belt. How do I install the belt on the bottom part, where the crankshaft connects to the propeller? What do I have to remove? Thanks for your time! Very helpful video... Thank you!
Did you see the part where I use a 2x6 to slide the engine forward in the hull? You have to remove the engine mount bolts and slide the engine to get the belt on… or if you are talking about getting the belt onto the pulleys, the easiest ways to use the spring holder tool. If you don’t have the tool, you’ll just have to muscle the belt on it’s fairly difficult.
Man thanks for this. I Left yamaha for good but have been overwhelmed when I look at how tight the engine bay.is on my kawis. How many hr do this service need be done?
So you should inspect the belt for premature wear at 10 hours, then every 25 hours you should inspect the belt, tensioner, and pivot. These skis also need exhaust filters, and regular oil/filter changes. Get very familiar with the maintenance schedule in your manual, and stick to it religiously, if you want a reliable and long lasting ski!
I was wondering if you just didn’t film / share that information during the greasing process. Great job showing others JD. I know I have watched another fella UA-camr maybe from Australia I believe Jets Skine is the channel. He has a bunch of informative UA-cam videos in regards to Kawasaki maintenance and other useful information. Billy D
Haha yes I had all these clips from the video and accidentally left a few of the important ones out! Jetskine was one of the pioneers with these types of videos he has a ton of them, but I wanted to do something updated with clearer images and a full follow through of the entire procedure. Thank you for your support as always man!
@@JDsWaterWorld Always here to support a great channel and a loyal Kawasaki fan. But your right he sure was the pioneer. That’s where I got the idea to add the zerk grease fitting from as well. Billy D
Hey JD, relatively speaking are the process the exact same for the 300 model? Obviously it’s been sometime since but your channel has so much great content that I could watch and apply to my 300LX.
I think a lot of the procedures are the same, but make sure to check the specific torque values and etc for the 300! I know the tensioner assembly on the 300 is a bit different but overall the process is the same. I am attaching a link to a free 300x shop manual: www.manualslib.com/manual/805994/Kawasaki-Ultra-300x.html?page=5#manual
@@ellgeee1871 this process is very similar for the 300. You will have to unbolt the 4 engine mounts and disconnect the exhaust manifold / water box connection and slide the engine forward in the hull a few inches In order to slip the new belt on
Can you use 80916 Waterproof grease or you have to use Corrosion Block Waterproof grease ? I know you've mentioned both of these products in your videos.
I have a question for you. I just bought 2 2022 Kawasaki Ultra 310 X’s. We took them out for the first time this week. When we came back there is oil or something leaking out of the right side where the handle bars are. What can that be? Did you have that issue before?
I have not had that issue! Maybe your dealer sprayed some lubricant on the handlebar assembly and it’s dripping out? Clean it up with some good boat / car wash soap and dry it off.
I'm in the process of choosing my first ski. I'm between the ultra 310lx-s, the fx svho, and the fx ho. While I'm pretty mechanical, this seems like a lot more work to maintain than yamaha's supercharged ski. I know the blowers clutch can go on the yamaha, but not that often.
The Ultra 310, like any high performance machine, requires a good amount of regular maintenance to keep it running smoothly. If you are a first time buyer with little experience dealing with supercharged skis, I would recommend getting a naturally aspirated ski. As Billy D will tell you, stock Kawi 310s can go 500+ hours on stock hardware if maintained correctly. Kevin Shaw at watercraft journal should be publishing a piece I just wrote titled “what first time buyers should know about supercharged skis” make sure you understand what you are getting into..lol. That being said, I love the Kawi 310s and can’t say enough good things about them.
Agreed the Yamaha supercharger is a terrible design- if you perform regular scheduled maintenance, the Kawasaki is extremely reliable! Never heard of an Eaton-Kawasaki TVS failure on a jet ski! Atleast Yamaha should have included a stock blow off valve if they were going to use such a crappy design!
Good old 2 stroke. Efi or DFI. I don't have a blower on my old 2001 seadoo, so I've never had to worry about one. Simplicity wins in my book, but I still like my fuel injection.
I loved my old 1100 2-strokes but they don’t hold a candle to the 2022 Kawasaki Ultra 310. SeaDoo products suck, they have such a large market share because they are the Ford Pinto of PWC for Everyman Joe who doesn’t know any better.
I Love the new Kawi, however I will be staying with my FXSVHO after watching this in the video. Is this required per the manual? or just going above and beyond?
It is a good practice to inspect the belt regularly. Greasing the pivot bushing is not required per the Kawasaki shop manual, but it is a common accepted practice to maintain the function of the belt tensioner. Changing the sprag clutch on the 1.8l svho engine is much, much more complicated than this btw.
Chances are the belt won’t ever slip off unless the maintenance has been severely neglected, but yes you can make it back to the dock at slow speed if the belt breaks or comes off the pulleys.
You mean the blue marker lines? Those are just to indicate the original tightened position of the bolt so that they are not accidentally over-torqued. You know I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt to use blue locktite on some of the bolts but I didn’t for this particular procedure
A good Kawasaki Jet Ski mechanic that knows their stuff can get an entire belt replacement done in about 2 hours. To simply grease the pivot should only be about 30 minutes. Shops will charge about $600 to change a belt + parts is what I hear. Most shops would charge you a minimum 1 hr labor for any service which in South Florida would be about $200
Quick question I got the kpp(extended warranty) but I planned on doing most if not all the maintenance myself, if I do all the maintenance that wouldnt void my warranty would it?
As long as you keep detailed receipts (for the oil, belts, filters Etc) and a detailed log (back of the user manual) of all the maintenance you should be fine.
If anyone ever gives you a hard time, just remind them of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. I have an extended warranty as well and I do all my own maintenance. Just make sure you buy the Shop manual for the ski and make sure to do all maintenance by the book 😎
@@JDsWaterWorld I already ordered it! And thank u its gonna save me a boat load of money just in gas to get to my dealer let alone the actual service haha 😄
Are you talking about the spring holder tool? It apparently difficult to find..lots of people having trouble. Try searching the part number on eBay or calling your local dealer
Yoooooaw JD have you ever had any problems with the blow off values on these 310 motors. Both of my 2022's are in the shop after 15hrs with the same problem. I come from yamaha after 9years to switch to kiwi. I'm not super inclined with them yet but I have friends that are. (Problem) boost declines to 11pounds. 1 of the skis if I pump the throttle it will boost bk up and hit top speed but only if I pump it and will still decline back down so we think it's boost leak.
I have not had any issues. But you will lose RPM and boost once the ski reaches about 65 mph due to the GPS speed limiter kicking in. Have you greased the pivot bushing? The bushing must be greased at no more than 10 hours or the tensioner might allow excessive belt slip (which can cause loss of boost). The manual states to check the belt and tensioner at 10 hours for exactly this reason. Also check the hoses…but likely it’s your tensioner. There is a blow off valve on the back of the intercooler and a vacuum controlled relief valve on the front (often mistaken for the blow off valve) check both of those as well for proper operation. Make sure there’s no water in your bilge there could be soaking the belt and causing slip…but yeah the biggest issue would be that the pivot Bushing is dry and causing loss of belt tension, which in turn is causing excessive slippage and thus lost boost
So you had a bad injector from the factory? Seems unlikely they would all be bad..unless you just got some bad luck lol..is your dealer fixing everything under warranty?
It blows my mind that Kawasaki doesn't grease the pivot point at the factory. This has been an issue since 2011 and they still haven't recognized it officially. I plan on doing mine at the 10 hour service/checkup soon. 👍
Agreed it’s crazy! There’s not even anything in the service manual about it! The part comes completely bone dry from the factory- anyone who does not grease it asap will have issues down the line…
No, you just have to remove 4 engine mount bolts and the exhaust manifold coupler and slide the engine forward a few inches to slip the belt between the drive couplers.
Yes, this tutorial shows you how To do this without the spring holder tool- I have other videos showing you how to do it with the tool- using the tool makes it much easier
Yeah it’s crazy…they really should add a zirk right from the factory! My old 1990s Yamahas had 2 grease fittings- one for the main driveshaft bearing, and one for the starter bendix!
@Ali how many hours on your ski? Did you service the belt regularly? The process is similar but you must disconnect the main exhaust hose and unbolt the 4 engine mounts to slide the engine forward in the ski- just enough the fit the belt between the coupler. While you have the coupler apart, you should replace the main drive damper and exhaust filter - if these items have not been serviced.
Thanks for your advice. I ordered a new exhaust filter, the old one looked warped or maybe straying to melt inside, not sure about service or maintenance, it’s a 2016 we bought it last year. The guys took out the assembly in this video & it was filthy & caked, not greased at all. Probably never did any belt maintenance, that’s why it broke. Not sure how many hours on the jet ski, right now it’s all taken apart in my garage! I’m looking into what/where the main drive damper is.
Well that’s awesome you guys are doing the work yourself! Just assume the previous owner didn’t do anything…Go and buy the Kawasaki service manual for your ski- that gives you every single thing you need to know about servicing the ski. Get the official one from Kawasakis website. The maintenance schedule is in the manual as well 😃. These skis are bulletproof if you do all of the maintenance properly.
Alright. Got er all off and putting it back together…. Can u confirm you DID NOT put the belt guard back in place? Also, the dreaded 2nd bolt for the cover - did u somehow replace it or just leave it out and screw in the one with the ground that’s easy to reach??
It is pain in the ass. You have to just feel around until you find the bolt and then use a small ratchet to get it off. The manual wants you to disassemble the exhaust manifold to get to it…but then you’ll be spending another $75 on gaskets!
I absolutely agree man. I'm at 27 hours now and I just found your video. From someone who's a mechanic as well on airplanes... grease is no 1 priority in my world as far as routine mx goes.
It’s much easier to work on than a centrifugal geared unit, and has a very low rate of failure with proper maintenance . Almost every single marine and automotive TVS supercharger application is belt driven…
*I wanted to reiterate to anyone that owns a Kawasaki Ultra 310 that YOU MUST grease this pivot bushing regularly! I suggest doing this procedure within the first 10 hours, and atleast every 25 hours after that (when you change your oil) If you can’t do it, make sure your mechanic does it!* In this particular video I do the process without the Spring Holder tool- using the tool is recommended and makes installing the belt much easier. I realize not everyone owns this tool, which is why I demonstrate how to do this without the tool. I have other videos where I show how to use the tool.
It would make all the sense in the world to install zerk fitting somehow.
Maybe drilling on the side of casing and taping threads and installing zerk and then drill penetrating pilot holes in the bushing itself to spread grease thru out.
That would help with routine maintenance and lubrication without taking apart every time, and take apart and clean at every oil change or so.
100% Some people do that exact mod, and also Kawi Performance apparently sells a tension with a zirk and upgraded bearings. It should come with a zirk from the factory,..not sure why they have not added one!
@@JDsWaterWorldlooks like a lot of work for every 24 hours however if I can purchase tensioner with zerk to replace then this seems straight forward.
Question JD. If I am just idling a couple of hours or traveling slowly to see shoreline do are these hours on the ski as stressful as aggressive riding. Meaning is the the type of hours put on the ski?
How was the test drive?? Did you buy it? lol. Yeah Zirk or the KP auto tensioner way to go. If you ride in fresh water and take it easy you will definitely reduce wear on the ski and ultimately reduce maintenance. I have been told that most of the wear occurs under heavy load and aggressive acceleration- so if you’re trying to be conservative with the machine, bring it up to speed slowly and back down from the top rpm lol. I am very hard on the throttle and run my ski hard..and thus go though 1-2 belts a year
@@JDsWaterWorldthank you sir. If I remove the belt plastic cover plate , will this expose enough of the belt for visual inspection?
I did purchase your exact ski. Test rode for about one e hour and rode it hard!. Performed flawlessly. 65 mph no problem. Hoping to get out this week for my first ride after purchase. Wanting to get more acquainted with ski. My ski has 30 hours. Past owner said he followed break in instructions and took it in after 10 hours. He put about 19 hours on it and said he recently had oil and plugs changed. Hope so as I don’t have service records.
I’m going over your videos for tools to purchase so I can work on ski, and then some ski accessories / products from your YT page.
As the owner of a 2020 Sea-Doo and a 2022 Yamaha, I was in the market for a new Ultra but was unfamiliar with the engine an maintenance it requires. Anyone that owns a 310 should thank you for the highly detailed DIY videos you have put out. They are some of the best DIY tutorial videos on youtube.
John thank you for taking the time to write that comment, I really appreciate it!!
Whilst you have the tensioner assembly out of the ski, it’s worth while drilling and tapping a grease nipple into the pivot bore. Then you never need to remove it to grease it ever again.
Yes, many people do that. In my case, I was given the opportunity to upgrade to the Kawi Performance Auto Tensioner - which is extremely high quality and is almost entirely maintenance free
JD, Thanks for posting this detailed process. The detail of this post showed me that I can do this to my ski! Anytime you are able to show any maintenance procedures and have the time please post them! Just know you are helping out a lot of new ski owners like me and we all really appreciate it! Thanks again JD!
No problem at all, it’s not work for me at all, I love wrenching on this thing! I will be doing videos of the jet pump bearings next! Thank you for your support and for watching! If you haven’t already, I highly recommend purchasing the OEM service manual for this ski- it’s got all the toque specs, and official procedures for just about everything! A few tools and the right attitude and you can do anything yourself on this ski!
@@JDsWaterWorld I did get the Kawasaki service manual for this ski. I usually do all the work on my cars and motorcycles but I have never touched a ski. It really helps watching someone do it first!!! Thanks for posting all the great content JD!!
Another good tech video. You're gonna be the reason everyone keeps their Kawi's in tip-top shape!
Haha down here in South Florida it’s either so it yourself or wait 3/4 weeks for a basic oil change. The shops down here are slammed and understaffed.
Exactly. JD makes game changer videos
I wasn't sure if I would do my services myself or take the ski in, but based on your videos, I am going to do these items myself. That way, I know they were done and done properly. Thanks again for all your info.
100% the entire reason I posted these! You will save thousands a year on maintenance, as well as learn the machine inside and out. Thank you for taking the time to comment!
I’m embarrassed to admit that I have not done this to my ski yet. It has 111 hours 😬 will be doing it before my next ride. Perhaps a belt replacement too, as it looks to be slinging black dust…plus I’ll be in there anyway. I thought there was more to it than a few bolts. Thanks for the detailed video!
How do the ribs on the belt look? A bit of black dust is not terrible as the belt wears- but if the ribs are all chewed up for there is fraying then it's definitely time to replace. Greasing the pivot is simple with the spring holder tool..definitely something that should be done with every other oil change at a minimum
@@JDsWaterWorld I’ll pull the tensioner and check. Hard to get a good look. I change oil every 20 to 30 hours.
LOL, my 2011 Ultra 300LX has 200 hours on it and all I have done is plugs, oil changes, and lube the supercharger every time when I am done riding. Definitely needs a good 200 hour service, as this has been a great machine. Never let me down once!!
Installed a zerk fitting on the pivot bushing and my life so much easier. Highly recommend and pretty simple to do.
100% that is a great mod! I have been considering upgrading to the @Kawi Performance upgraded tensioner that has stainless bearings and eliminates the bushing altogether..but if I don’t get that I will be doing the Zirk mod
Great video.
Well put together 👏 👍 👏
great content
Thanks appreciate it!
Jd waterworld your videos are really helpful and explanatory excellent work.
I also own a 2023 310lx with speed stage 1 and love it .
Would like to ask also if you have changed the fuel pump screen ?
Is it necessary to remove the top console or is there an easier way around( asking since the manual states changing fuel screen every 25hrs)
Thanks a lot
Thanks glad you like them! I have not- I did purchase the screen bag but have not installed it..you do need to remove the access panel which requires you to unbolt the console- actually not that bad maybe 10/12 bolts? There is also a chamber over the filter which I have been told restricts flow.. I imagine that very few people check it at 25 hours, I have been meaning to do mine, but I’ve been very busy. Hopefully ill get to do the video on it soon.
@@JDsWaterWorld thanks a lot do you think it would be blocked at 25 hrs with good fuel
Hi there!
Was trying to replace the belt in my kawasaki using your video as guidance. Everything was good till I got to the step of installing the belt. How do I install the belt on the bottom part, where the crankshaft connects to the propeller? What do I have to remove? Thanks for your time! Very helpful video... Thank you!
Did you see the part where I use a 2x6 to slide the engine forward in the hull? You have to remove the engine mount bolts and slide the engine to get the belt on… or if you are talking about getting the belt onto the pulleys, the easiest ways to use the spring holder tool. If you don’t have the tool, you’ll just have to muscle the belt on it’s fairly difficult.
Man thanks for this. I Left yamaha for good but have been overwhelmed when I look at how tight the engine bay.is on my kawis. How many hr do this service need be done?
So you should inspect the belt for premature wear at 10 hours, then every 25 hours you should inspect the belt, tensioner, and pivot. These skis also need exhaust filters, and regular oil/filter changes. Get very familiar with the maintenance schedule in your manual, and stick to it religiously, if you want a reliable and long lasting ski!
I was wondering if you just didn’t film / share that information during the greasing process. Great job showing others JD. I know I have watched another fella UA-camr maybe from Australia I believe Jets Skine is the channel. He has a bunch of informative UA-cam videos in regards to Kawasaki maintenance and other useful information.
Billy D
Haha yes I had all these clips from the video and accidentally left a few of the important ones out! Jetskine was one of the pioneers with these types of videos he has a ton of them, but I wanted to do something updated with clearer images and a full follow through of the entire procedure. Thank you for your support as always man!
@@JDsWaterWorld Always here to support a great channel and a loyal Kawasaki fan. But your right he sure was the pioneer. That’s where I got the idea to add the zerk grease fitting from as well.
Billy D
Hey JD, relatively speaking are the process the exact same for the 300 model? Obviously it’s been sometime since but your channel has so much great content that I could watch and apply to my 300LX.
I think a lot of the procedures are the same, but make sure to check the specific torque values and etc for the 300! I know the tensioner assembly on the 300 is a bit different but overall the process is the same. I am attaching a link to a free 300x shop manual:
www.manualslib.com/manual/805994/Kawasaki-Ultra-300x.html?page=5#manual
did you find a vid for the 300 i shreded mine and would like to do the job
@@ellgeee1871 this process is very similar for the 300. You will have to unbolt the 4 engine mounts and disconnect the exhaust manifold / water box connection and slide the engine forward in the hull a few inches In order to slip the new belt on
Can you use 80916 Waterproof grease or you have to use Corrosion Block Waterproof grease ? I know you've mentioned both of these products in your videos.
You can use whatever grease you want- any marine grease will be better than no grease. I personally prefer the corrosion block brand grease
I have a question for you. I just bought 2 2022 Kawasaki Ultra 310 X’s. We took them out for the first time this week. When we came back there is oil or something leaking out of the right side where the handle bars are. What can that be? Did you have that issue before?
I have not had that issue! Maybe your dealer sprayed some lubricant on the handlebar assembly and it’s dripping out? Clean it up with some good boat / car wash soap and dry it off.
I'm in the process of choosing my first ski. I'm between the ultra 310lx-s, the fx svho, and the fx ho.
While I'm pretty mechanical, this seems like a lot more work to maintain than yamaha's supercharged ski. I know the blowers clutch can go on the yamaha, but not that often.
The Ultra 310, like any high performance machine, requires a good amount of regular maintenance to keep it running smoothly. If you are a first time buyer with little experience dealing with supercharged skis, I would recommend getting a naturally aspirated ski.
As Billy D will tell you, stock Kawi 310s can go 500+ hours on stock hardware if maintained correctly.
Kevin Shaw at watercraft journal should be publishing a piece I just wrote titled “what first time buyers should know about supercharged skis” make sure you understand what you are getting into..lol. That being said, I love the Kawi 310s and can’t say enough good things about them.
bullshit yamaha clutches will never outlast a kawi belt...my friends 2020 gp1800r didnt even get 80 hrs on a clutch...terrible design
Agreed the Yamaha supercharger is a terrible design- if you perform regular scheduled maintenance, the Kawasaki is extremely reliable! Never heard of an Eaton-Kawasaki TVS failure on a jet ski! Atleast Yamaha should have included a stock blow off valve if they were going to use such a crappy design!
Good old 2 stroke. Efi or DFI. I don't have a blower on my old 2001 seadoo, so I've never had to worry about one. Simplicity wins in my book, but I still like my fuel injection.
I loved my old 1100 2-strokes but they don’t hold a candle to the 2022 Kawasaki Ultra 310. SeaDoo products suck, they have such a large market share because they are the Ford Pinto of PWC for Everyman Joe who doesn’t know any better.
I Love the new Kawi, however I will be staying with my FXSVHO after watching this in the video. Is this required per the manual? or just going above and beyond?
It is a good practice to inspect the belt regularly. Greasing the pivot bushing is not required per the Kawasaki shop manual, but it is a common accepted practice to maintain the function of the belt tensioner. Changing the sprag clutch on the 1.8l svho engine is much, much more complicated than this btw.
If you have a belt slip off at sea, can you get back to the dock, or will you have to get towed ?
Chances are the belt won’t ever slip off unless the maintenance has been severely neglected, but yes you can make it back to the dock at slow speed if the belt breaks or comes off the pulleys.
Nice. Do the blue nuts mean blue thread lock needed?
You mean the blue marker lines? Those are just to indicate the original tightened position of the bolt so that they are not accidentally over-torqued. You know I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt to use blue locktite on some of the bolts but I didn’t for this particular procedure
Do you have a rough estimate of labor time this job calls for by chance?
A good Kawasaki Jet Ski mechanic that knows their stuff can get an entire belt replacement done in about 2 hours. To simply grease the pivot should only be about 30 minutes. Shops will charge about $600 to change a belt + parts is what I hear. Most shops would charge you a minimum 1 hr labor for any service which in South Florida would be about $200
Quick question I got the kpp(extended warranty) but I planned on doing most if not all the maintenance myself, if I do all the maintenance that wouldnt void my warranty would it?
As long as you keep detailed receipts (for the oil, belts, filters Etc) and a detailed log (back of the user manual) of all the maintenance you should be fine.
@@JDsWaterWorld ok thank u I was a lil worried because my kawi dealer is a long drive away 5 or so hours 😅 don't wanna make that trip very often
If anyone ever gives you a hard time, just remind them of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. I have an extended warranty as well and I do all my own maintenance. Just make sure you buy the Shop manual for the ski and make sure to do all maintenance by the book 😎
@@JDsWaterWorld I already ordered it! And thank u its gonna save me a boat load of money just in gas to get to my dealer let alone the actual service haha 😄
Where did you get the part from im looking for it for my ski
Are you talking about the spring holder tool? It apparently difficult to find..lots of people having trouble. Try searching the part number on eBay or calling your local dealer
Yoooooaw JD have you ever had any problems with the blow off values on these 310 motors. Both of my 2022's are in the shop after 15hrs with the same problem. I come from yamaha after 9years to switch to kiwi. I'm not super inclined with them yet but I have friends that are. (Problem) boost declines to 11pounds. 1 of the skis if I pump the throttle it will boost bk up and hit top speed but only if I pump it and will still decline back down so we think it's boost leak.
I have not had any issues. But you will lose RPM and boost once the ski reaches about 65 mph due to the GPS speed limiter kicking in. Have you greased the pivot bushing? The bushing must be greased at no more than 10 hours or the tensioner might allow excessive belt slip (which can cause loss of boost). The manual states to check the belt and tensioner at 10 hours for exactly this reason. Also check the hoses…but likely it’s your tensioner. There is a blow off valve on the back of the intercooler and a vacuum controlled relief valve on the front (often mistaken for the blow off valve) check both of those as well for proper operation. Make sure there’s no water in your bilge there could be soaking the belt and causing slip…but yeah the biggest issue would be that the pivot Bushing is dry and causing loss of belt tension, which in turn is causing excessive slippage and thus lost boost
I was a injector or all injectors. Testing it tomorrow
On both skis??
No just 1. The other ski is fine
So you had a bad injector from the factory? Seems unlikely they would all be bad..unless you just got some bad luck lol..is your dealer fixing everything under warranty?
It blows my mind that Kawasaki doesn't grease the pivot point at the factory. This has been an issue since 2011 and they still haven't recognized it officially. I plan on doing mine at the 10 hour service/checkup soon. 👍
Agreed it’s crazy! There’s not even anything in the service manual about it! The part comes completely bone dry from the factory- anyone who does not grease it asap will have issues down the line…
Is a SC belt replacement an engine out procedure?
No, you just have to remove 4 engine mount bolts and the exhaust manifold coupler and slide the engine forward a few inches to slip the belt between the drive couplers.
I have a 2019 and don't remember having a ground wire for the Ignition at the 10mm nut?
Maybe it’s grounded somewhere else on the 2019? I think it’s in the same place..you better double check
@JDsWaterWorld I don't see a ground wire anywhere close and I'm only getting 11 psi of boost?
Is this procedure the same on a 310 R 2016?
Yes, this tutorial shows you how
To do this without the spring holder tool- I have other videos showing you how to do it with the tool- using the tool makes it much easier
Crazy to think they really don’t put much grease from the factory from the looks of it.
Yeah it’s crazy…they really should add a zirk right from the factory! My old 1990s Yamahas had 2 grease fittings- one for the main driveshaft bearing, and one for the starter bendix!
What if the belt breaks? Mine broke off, I have a new belt but not sure how to install it.
@Ali how many hours on your ski? Did you service the belt regularly? The process is similar but you must disconnect the main exhaust hose and unbolt the 4 engine mounts to slide the engine forward in the ski- just enough the fit the belt between the coupler. While you have the coupler apart, you should replace the main drive damper and exhaust filter - if these items have not been serviced.
Thanks for your advice. I ordered a new exhaust filter, the old one looked warped or maybe straying to melt inside, not sure about service or maintenance, it’s a 2016 we bought it last year. The guys took out the assembly in this video & it was filthy & caked, not greased at all. Probably never did any belt maintenance, that’s why it broke. Not sure how many hours on the jet ski, right now it’s all taken apart in my garage! I’m looking into what/where the main drive damper is.
Found it! That was way too easy! Do you have a recommended maintenance schedule anywhere? Complete newbie to a supercharged jet ski over here.
Well that’s awesome you guys are doing the work yourself! Just assume the previous owner didn’t do anything…Go and buy the Kawasaki service manual for your ski- that gives you every single thing you need to know about servicing the ski. Get the official one from Kawasakis website. The maintenance schedule is in the manual as well 😃. These skis are bulletproof if you do all of the maintenance properly.
Here’s the manual link:
www.kawasaki.com/en-us/shop/vehicle-accessories/watercraft/jt1500ngf/99924147308/service-manual-jt1500lmn-service-manual-jt150
Seriously how did u get the second bolt for the belt cover off???? Haha
Alright. Got er all off and putting it back together…. Can u confirm you DID NOT put the belt guard back in place? Also, the dreaded 2nd bolt for the cover - did u somehow replace it or just leave it out and screw in the one with the ground that’s easy to reach??
Haha! Yes I DID NOT put the belt cover back on and only reinstalled the visible bolt that holds the ignition ground in place.
That cover makes it impossible to inspect the belt after each ride
It is pain in the ass. You have to just feel around until you find the bolt and then use a small ratchet to get it off. The manual wants you to disassemble the exhaust manifold to get to it…but then you’ll be spending another $75 on gaskets!
Thanks for the reply JD!!!
Welp my 22 310lx just hit 25 hours, that's insane this isn't factory work.
Yeah it’s crazy they don’t! It really should come stock with zirk fittings to keep it greased.
I absolutely agree man. I'm at 27 hours now and I just found your video. From someone who's a mechanic as well on airplanes... grease is no 1 priority in my world as far as routine mx goes.
This belt system is the worst ever! Just by looking at it gives me the keeps. Such a beautiful ski but that ruins everything!
It’s much easier to work on than a centrifugal geared unit, and has a very low rate of failure with proper maintenance . Almost every single marine and automotive TVS supercharger application is belt driven…