Great video, illustration & content JD. Looks like an amazing performance product from K-Speed once again. Can’t wait to hear & see the results. Thanks for sharing Billy D
Thanks for watching Billy! I did a 80-mile ocean run with this installed it it was great, as expected! Don’t have any numbers to share with you, but my assessment is that the acceleration is more intense (as if it wasn’t enough already lol) and that it’s nice knowing the pulley won’t rust like the stock one.
15:12 when u use the stock bracket with the new "bigger" Kspeed idler pulley there is no longer room for the breaker bar with a 19mm socket to release the spring clamp any longer. I had to use a 19mm open ended wrench and some leverage to just get it to budge loose and off. Wish I could send u a photo to see how tight it is between the 19mm nut and new pulley. A Qtip won't even fit in between the two.
You know what- I was using the Kawi Perofmance auto tensioner which is different than the stock one- didn’t even occur to me that it wouldn’t fit. You can take a 19mm socket and a die grinder and grind down one side of the socket and then it will fit. Also they sell 19mm low profile crowfoot wrenches that work
The larger Kspeed idler pulley they include is a painted steel pulley and will start to rust of exposed to salt water…you should maybe consider putting a top coat of high temp paint over the stock finish…I ended up having to retire that pulley and am now running a stainless steel pulley- the only thing that holds up for me.
@@JDsWaterWorld where did u end up getting the stainless steel pulley? Is it stock or Kspeed? I figured with the Race 108mm SC pulley u have to run a bigger idler pulley and not the stock one. And since it's already installed I'm just gonna let it ride and see how it holds up. I'll spray fresh water on it after each salt water ride too. Btw getting the water box back in place and was a challenge. Let me know how it goes for you.
Great video JD! I have that spring clamp and it make it so much easier to remove the belt! You make this stuff look easy! I'm not looking forward to replacing my belt but I'm so thankful you have these videos for me to reference! Thanks man!!
I was really dreading doing it as well, because the service manual does not really provide great instructions on how to do it, but it really is not bad at all. The biggest thing is making sure you do not slide the engine too far forward, because if it falls off amounts, you will need a shop hoist or crane to get the engine back on the mounts.
JD, you have to get the MK2 ATMOSPHERIC BYPASS TRUMPET Kspeed sells, it's a riot and cracks me up whenever I ride. It will make your ski sound like it has a blowoff valve. I don't think it really adds any performance but it sure sounds awesome.
That is actually the only Kspeed mod I don’t have! I’ve ridden skis with it on there, it is a lot of fun to blip the throttle! Maybe they will send me one someday 🙄🙄 🤪
Another great video! That reduction in rotating mass is a big deal. Have you noticed any difference after installation in acceleration and throttle response performance? In the end top speed is really going to be limited to your peak RPM, which is controlled by the ECU. I know that is what most people ask about. 🙂
Brian, thanks for this comment- Yes! 50%+ reduction in the mass of the pulley- see my video on weighing both pulleys if you’re interested. I have noticed that the acceleration is mind boggling- and you are right about the RPM- I have not done a “speed run” yet- maybe this weekend I will make it back to the freshwater canal to do a few runs. I mostly got the pulley for corrosion resistance and durability since the stock one has poor resistance to salt and rusted out on me very fast.
Your thoughts on the intercooler block off plate? Pros and cons? Throttle response will be more snappy. What would the cons be? Trying to decide weather or not I want to install mine. Lol 😆
I have not installed mine yet..there are two schools of thought: 1) blocking it off will force excessive boost into the engine which causes premature wear. 2) the mikuni bov is redundant and the secondary vacuum relief valve will sufficiently bleed off extra boost when you snap the throttle ..you do have to ask yourself, why was the ski engineered this way, and what am I doing to the original design if I change this part etc etc I know you know all this already man lol
Great video with great step by step tutorial. 👍 I see the water box is blocking the pulley bolts. Would it be any easier to remove/un-strap the water box?
So if you do not have to replace the belt, you can remove the exhaust pipe as shown, but then just loosen the 2 bolts securing the intercooler so that you can access the band around the water box, and then loosen the rear exhaust hose, connecting the port water box to the starboard, one, and slide the water box back enough to access the pulley bolts.
Where do you live? Their shipping to me here in Florida was pretty reasonable and very fast..I’ve placed a few different orders with them. They have the DHL and then a cheaper economy method
@@JDsWaterWorld I live in Nebraska. My last order took a couple weeks(which is no big deal) but the shipping was over $100. It was just the atmospheric trumpet so the weight and size shouldn’t have been much of an issue
For someone who has never done it before, I would say, give yourself between 2 to 3 hours. For a mechanic or individual who has done it a few times, about 45 minutes. That would include replacing the belt as well. There is a way to replace the pulley without sliding the entire engine forward, which saves a great deal of time.
Can you make a video with a chart of the maintenance like how many our is required for oil change and replacing components like every 50 hours exhaust filter etc I learned a lot from your videos great info thanks again
Yeah that would make a good video..I myself follow an extreme schedule as you can probably tell from the amount of times I’ve had the ski apart on video. Oil and filter every 25 hours, exhaust filter every 50, lube tensioner pivot every 25 (although with my KP tensioner this maintenance has been eliminated) change plugs every 25, change belt every 50, inspect pump and bearings every 50, change fuel filter bag every 50, fog every ride, wipe down engine with corrosion block every ride, yeah..good topic for a 2-minute tech tip!
Another very interesting and detailed explanation, quick question and I hope not a silly one but what difference does it make to the performance from stock?? Tks Al
Yes, this pulley provides an extra 1.25 PSI of boost over stock, is lighter so it reduces spool time, and will not rust out like the stock pulley. To take advantage of the extra boost you would want the BOV block off plate (shown in my unboxing video and to be installed in another video) and a Kspeed tune.
@@JDsWaterWorld cheers for that, I did not realise it would make more power, such a simple but effective way to boost HP , you must be seeing more Mph at this point?
I do not expect to gain much on the top end- the gains I am seeing now are with the acceleration. I am planning to do a speed run soon on the flat fresh water canal and will let you know..but don’t expect the ski will do more than 75/76 maxxed out with low fuel.
There are shims between the 4 engine mounts and the hull, where necessary. The Kawasakis utilize a driveline damper system as well as a replaceable carrier bearing. The Kawasakis do not have alignment and mount failure issues like the SeaDoos have. The Yamaha system is a copy of the Kawasaki system- if you check the patents you will see Kawasaki developed the most reliable and well designed driveline in the industry, that has been the same for over 35 years.
Yes basically if you have to replace the engine mounts, make sure you keep track of which shims were used where from the factory and reuse them. The Yamaha has a damper and 4 engine mounts as well- in fact the older Yamahas had a grease fitting on the bearing which was an awesome innovation they stopped for some reason
Any clue if this sort of thing will get your warranty voided if something happened? I know they have to prove that the part caused a failure, but im not sure i want to deal with the headache from the dealer
Yes, likely any modifications you do to the ski yourself will void your warranty. The manual states that “racing” will void your warranty as well. Now if your LCD display goes out- they cannot blame they on the Supercharger pulley, but if your Supercharger goes out, you will likely be picking up that tab on your own, that is of course unless you swap back the stock pulley before bringing it in for service.
James, lots of people have asked me about it and it’s actually fairly difficult to get on its own apparently…when you purchase a new spring the tool is included..did you try calling your dealer? Search on eBay? Part number: 13280-0726
In this video the belt is replaced as well, so the engine had to be moved. Also wanted to check carrier bearing and driveline damper which manual wants you to inspect. The only way to move the waterbox is to unbolt the exhaust pipe (either main or at the filter) and then you could remove the rubber strap and probably the crossover pipe and then you could slide it back just enough to get in there. I know others have mentioned doing it this way.
I found it is impossible to get a torque wrench with a hex driver socket in that space..you would have to use a 90 degree Allen and wing the torque by feel lol
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
At 10:56 ... my wife shouted, "No, "ANYONE" cannot JD!" after I told her to take care of that for me.
Hahahah
Great video, illustration & content JD. Looks like an amazing performance product from K-Speed once again. Can’t wait to hear & see the results. Thanks for sharing
Billy D
Thanks for watching Billy! I did a 80-mile ocean run with this installed it it was great, as expected! Don’t have any numbers to share with you, but my assessment is that the acceleration is more intense (as if it wasn’t enough already lol) and that it’s nice knowing the pulley won’t rust like the stock one.
@@JDsWaterWorld Man that’s awesome to hear. Yeah the acceleration is pretty bada$$ already on the stock 310’s. Glad to hear
15:12 when u use the stock bracket with the new "bigger" Kspeed idler pulley there is no longer room for the breaker bar with a 19mm socket to release the spring clamp any longer. I had to use a 19mm open ended wrench and some leverage to just get it to budge loose and off. Wish I could send u a photo to see how tight it is between the 19mm nut and new pulley. A Qtip won't even fit in between the two.
You know what- I was using the Kawi Perofmance auto tensioner which is different than the stock one- didn’t even occur to me that it wouldn’t fit. You can take a 19mm socket and a die grinder and grind down one side of the socket and then it will fit. Also they sell 19mm low profile crowfoot wrenches that work
Do you ride in salt water?
@@JDsWaterWorld yea I ride in both salt and river. Probably 75% salt and 25% river water. Why do you ask?
The larger Kspeed idler pulley they include is a painted steel pulley and will start to rust of exposed to salt water…you should maybe consider putting a top coat of high temp paint over the stock finish…I ended up having to retire that pulley and am now running a stainless steel pulley- the only thing that holds up for me.
@@JDsWaterWorld where did u end up getting the stainless steel pulley? Is it stock or Kspeed? I figured with the Race 108mm SC pulley u have to run a bigger idler pulley and not the stock one. And since it's already installed I'm just gonna let it ride and see how it holds up. I'll spray fresh water on it after each salt water ride too. Btw getting the water box back in place and was a challenge. Let me know how it goes for you.
Great video JD! I have that spring clamp and it make it so much easier to remove the belt! You make this stuff look easy! I'm not looking forward to replacing my belt but I'm so thankful you have these videos for me to reference! Thanks man!!
I was really dreading doing it as well, because the service manual does not really provide great instructions on how to do it, but it really is not bad at all. The biggest thing is making sure you do not slide the engine too far forward, because if it falls off amounts, you will need a shop hoist or crane to get the engine back on the mounts.
Great video!!!! You ent into more detail than we did, i think. Amazing video!!!
Well, you know..I like to hear myself talk 🤣🤣
@@JDsWaterWorld hahahahaha
JD, you have to get the MK2 ATMOSPHERIC BYPASS TRUMPET Kspeed sells, it's a riot and cracks me up whenever I ride. It will make your ski sound like it has a blowoff valve. I don't think it really adds any performance but it sure sounds awesome.
That is actually the only Kspeed mod I don’t have! I’ve ridden skis with it on there, it is a lot of fun to blip the throttle! Maybe they will send me one someday 🙄🙄 🤪
That sounds like something I would need. JD, Get 2 if you're getting one. Hehe
Another great video! That reduction in rotating mass is a big deal. Have you noticed any difference after installation in acceleration and throttle response performance? In the end top speed is really going to be limited to your peak RPM, which is controlled by the ECU. I know that is what most people ask about. 🙂
Brian, thanks for this comment- Yes! 50%+ reduction in the mass of the pulley- see my video on weighing both pulleys if you’re interested. I have noticed that the acceleration is mind boggling- and you are right about the RPM- I have not done a “speed run” yet- maybe this weekend I will make it back to the freshwater canal to do a few runs. I mostly got the pulley for corrosion resistance and durability since the stock one has poor resistance to salt and rusted out on me very fast.
@@JDsWaterWorld I did watch that video as well. Yes, the corrosion is pretty shocking. This was perfect preventative maintenance.
Your thoughts on the intercooler block off plate?
Pros and cons?
Throttle response will be more snappy.
What would the cons be?
Trying to decide weather or not I want to install mine. Lol 😆
I have not installed mine yet..there are two schools of thought: 1) blocking it off will force excessive boost into the engine which causes premature wear. 2) the mikuni bov is redundant and the secondary vacuum relief valve will sufficiently bleed off extra boost when you snap the throttle ..you do have to ask yourself, why was the ski engineered this way, and what am I doing to the original design if I change this part etc etc I know you know all this already man lol
Great video with great step by step tutorial. 👍
I see the water box is blocking the pulley bolts. Would it be any easier to remove/un-strap the water box?
So if you do not have to replace the belt, you can remove the exhaust pipe as shown, but then just loosen the 2 bolts securing the intercooler so that you can access the band around the water box, and then loosen the rear exhaust hose, connecting the port water box to the starboard, one, and slide the water box back enough to access the pulley bolts.
Great work!! Is there anywhere that sells kspeed products in the US? The shipping from Brisbane is insane.
Where do you live? Their shipping to me here in Florida was pretty reasonable and very fast..I’ve placed a few different orders with them. They have the DHL and then a cheaper economy method
@@JDsWaterWorld I live in Nebraska. My last order took a couple weeks(which is no big deal) but the shipping was over $100. It was just the atmospheric trumpet so the weight and size shouldn’t have been much of an issue
Great video whats the hours required to replace it and what Milwaukee ratchet are you using? Thanks
It’s the m12 extended reach 3/8 drive. I have the short reach m12 as well, but the extended reach is my go-to.
For someone who has never done it before, I would say, give yourself between 2 to 3 hours. For a mechanic or individual who has done it a few times, about 45 minutes. That would include replacing the belt as well. There is a way to replace the pulley without sliding the entire engine forward, which saves a great deal of time.
Can you make a video with a chart of the maintenance like how many our is required for oil change and replacing components like every 50 hours exhaust filter etc I learned a lot from your videos great info thanks again
Yeah that would make a good video..I myself follow an extreme schedule as you can probably tell from the amount of times I’ve had the ski apart on video. Oil and filter every 25 hours, exhaust filter every 50, lube tensioner pivot every 25 (although with my KP tensioner this maintenance has been eliminated) change plugs every 25, change belt every 50, inspect pump and bearings every 50, change fuel filter bag every 50, fog every ride, wipe down engine with corrosion block every ride, yeah..good topic for a 2-minute tech tip!
Another very interesting and detailed explanation, quick question and I hope not a silly one but what difference does it make to the performance from stock?? Tks Al
Yes, this pulley provides an extra 1.25 PSI of boost over stock, is lighter so it reduces spool time, and will not rust out like the stock pulley. To take advantage of the extra boost you would want the BOV block off plate (shown in my unboxing video and to be installed in another video) and a Kspeed tune.
@@JDsWaterWorld cheers for that, I did not realise it would make more power, such a simple but effective way to boost HP , you must be seeing more Mph at this point?
I do not expect to gain much on the top end- the gains I am seeing now are with the acceleration. I am planning to do a speed run soon on the flat fresh water canal and will let you know..but don’t expect the ski will do more than 75/76 maxxed out with low fuel.
RIVA Raing pulley or k speed? What do you think is better?
Kawie doesn't use shims at the motor mounts? How does the alignment work on the 310 units?
There are shims between the 4 engine mounts and the hull, where necessary. The Kawasakis utilize a driveline damper system as well as a replaceable carrier bearing. The Kawasakis do not have alignment and mount failure issues like the SeaDoos have. The Yamaha system is a copy of the Kawasaki system- if you check the patents you will see Kawasaki developed the most reliable and well designed driveline in the industry, that has been the same for over 35 years.
@@JDsWaterWorld That's very good to hear because I have to change my mid shift bearing on my Yami and have been fretting the aliment/shim issue.
Yes basically if you have to replace the engine mounts, make sure you keep track of which shims were used where from the factory and reuse them. The Yamaha has a damper and 4 engine mounts as well- in fact the older Yamahas had a grease fitting on the bearing which was an awesome innovation they stopped for some reason
If I already have the kawi performance tensioner arm and SS pulley can I run the kspeed 108mm?
No, you must use the automotive grade steel idler pulley from Kspeed to go with the 108mm pulley. You can use the tensioner arm still however
Any clue if this sort of thing will get your warranty voided if something happened? I know they have to prove that the part caused a failure, but im not sure i want to deal with the headache from the dealer
Yes, likely any modifications you do to the ski yourself will void your warranty. The manual states that “racing” will void your warranty as well. Now if your LCD display goes out- they cannot blame they on the Supercharger pulley, but if your Supercharger goes out, you will likely be picking up that tab on your own, that is of course unless you swap back the stock pulley before bringing it in for service.
@@JDsWaterWorld oh yea id be for sure turning it back to stock right before hahaha
Having trouble finding the spring tensioner tool. Can’t you post a link please? Thanks.
James, lots of people have asked me about it and it’s actually fairly difficult to get on its own apparently…when you purchase a new spring the tool is included..did you try calling your dealer? Search on eBay? Part number: 13280-0726
Just ordered it! Thanks for the part # it is called, Hold Spring Tensioner.
Couldnt you remove the water box and it be much easier to get pulley off?
In this video the belt is replaced as well, so the engine had to be moved. Also wanted to check carrier bearing and driveline damper which manual wants you to inspect. The only way to move the waterbox is to unbolt the exhaust pipe (either main or at the filter) and then you could remove the rubber strap and probably the crossover pipe and then you could slide it back just enough to get in there. I know others have mentioned doing it this way.
I found it is impossible to get a torque wrench with a hex driver socket in that space..you would have to use a 90 degree Allen and wing the torque by feel lol
@@JDsWaterWorld ohhhhh gotcha that makes sense! Was just wondering.
@@JDsWaterWorld ya no we want tq to spec not feel, that could do some damage
@@JDsWaterWorld im thinking about doing it to my 19 310x SE. worth it?
Incredible video. I'll let you come do mine. 😉
Thanks man! Hahah..I should open a jet ski shop- you wouldn’t believe the number of emails I get asking me to work on people’s skis!
@@JDsWaterWorld you should!!!