@@sirmo667 that depends on your honeycomb. any size that fits snuggly enough so that they don't wobble, but not too tight that you shred your fingers pulling them out. Longer bolts for more clearance.
Great series. As an alternative to just using a large compressor is to use an airbrush compressor, which also has the benefit of not being very loud. In either case it's good to use a local airbrush regulator with filter near the machine. Easier to get low pressure regulation and keeps the airstream clear of moisture and any oil from the compressor.
Nice video. Ingredient 5 would be Material. Both is type and quality. Some materials just do not cut as well as others, and it's not just about thickness. Some materials just create more smoke than others. I think another thing people confuse is smote/soot VS scorching. Scorching is to burn a material with heat. If you can wipe that "Scorch" off with a damp rag, it was just smoke. Smoke is very common, and wiping it off with water or isopropyl alcohol is an easy solution.
Great info on air flow underneath the workpiece. I can’t wait for when you get an Xtool P2 and offer a class series on using the CO2 laser. In the meantime I’ll continue to learn from your diode laser videos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, George - Funny enough, I've actually been testing out a P2 in my shop for the last couple of months. My next video on the channel will be a review of the machine. Cheers!
Great video! Any tips on how to get the sides of the cuts less burnt. I only have Creality falcon 10 W laser. I use laminate plywood now, but maybe their is a better wood? I'm currently trying to make wooden jigsaw puzzles.
I tried your suggestions, removed the honeycomb bed which allowed air between the project and the spoil board, and connected my compressor set at 20 psi to the air assist port on my laser and got no scorching! Now can you suggest an air assist that puts out 20-30 psi, its a pain using my compressor? Most air assists on Amazon are rated in liters per minute which is a volume not a pressure.
Love your videos and they have indeed saved me a lot of time and hassle! Thank you! Also love the shirt as I grew up a few miles away from the North Unit. I spent countless weekends hiking and running around the park, especially around Cannonball Concretion pullout area.
I am trying to engrave a small map - about 2 1/4 X 3"...can you find one and do a demonstration of fill versus offset fill on it?...and remove the scorching?
Thanks for the guide, guess I need to replace my honeycomb for some applications or put something between it :) Main downside I see for a big air compressor is that they're much louder and another huge machine you need to put somewhere. Also, is there any max PSI you should use?
Yep - it's definitely louder. I use a California Air Tools compressor, which is quite a bit quieter than a normal pancake air compressor. But it's still loud enough that I usually wear ear protection if I'm running it for an extended period.
I started with a compressor and went back to an xtools ali express pump just for the noise aspect and wearing out my compressor. It's fine for front only and okish for cutting but obviously I have a compressor for slash and burn if needed.
I picked up an "ultra quiet" direct-drive air compressor a while ago. It was cheap enough, standard 135psi thing, small tank, carry handle, looks like any other. I needed a smaller compressor and figured if it was a little bit quieter then it'd be good enough. It is so quiet! Unbelievable how quiet it is. I mean, it putters along and it can rattle things on the table above where it sits. More noise than a fridge compressor. But, it's surprisingly "ultra quiet." So, they're out there and it's an option. Yeah, I use it for my laser. The hissing air and stepper motors are louder than the compressor. I do worry about duty cycle on longer cuts though.
@@4Fixerdave can you share the model you got ? if you want to isolate the vibes put down some HD foam then a cement flag stone big enough to sit the compressor on above that foam, it will isolate the vibes by at least 70% for next to no cost. the different densities and added mass will solve it .
@@MileyonDisney What are you going to buy? I Just bought one of this cheap laser compressors to compare. Dont have results for now. I simply dont have much space in my tiny office (1.8meters x 3meters) ...i cant put a big compressor in there.
I have the auto air assist from xtool and it turns on when you cut and off during the engraving so it does what he says gives you good cuts and engraving
@@kaykayW85 I have the same, but his examples show even better with 20 psi which the xtool air assist does not supply. I was hoping he'd come up with an external controller or something to be able to activate a solenoid on the line from the air compressor.
This is a great informative video thanks for sharing. Now I need to know what do I need to buy to control the flow of my general purpose air compressor similar to yours.
Agreed. Definitely better results: engraving without air... but comes at a cost on my 100watt co2: im constantly cleaning lenses. And have already destroyed my compound lenses
That’s a good point - I’ve had no issue with this on my diode lasers, but on my P2 (co2 laser), I’ve started putting the air assist on as low as I can get it for engravings and anecdotally, this seems to be helping the lens stay cleaner.
I have an xtool s1. I use the air pump but I have an air compressor for my wood working. Would I be able to do this with the s1 or would that mess anything up since the airflow goes through the laser itself?
Great explainer for beginners. 👍 I use the same air settings as you for cut and engrave, but with no air engraving I find I'm cleaning my lens every 10 mins. Have you tried using very little air assist during engraving just to stop the fumes going up and sticking to the lens? Would that be a huge hassle to switch air pressure settings between cutting and engraving all the time?
Thanks - and in theory, I think it is a good idea to have the air assist on low for engraving. It would probably need to be quite low, like around 2-3 PSI, because even running around 5 PSI I’ve gotten scorch marks on the sides of engravings. Personally, I just turn it off completely, but if I were running a more expensive laser, I might spend some more time tinkering to find a low PSI to run for engraving that doesn’t scorch the engravings.So in summary, I do think running air assist on super low while engraving is a good idea if you can find the perfect setting where it doesn’t scorch, but in practice I just turn my air off completely.
That was really helpful, thanks! Question - how do you measure the PSI of the air pump? I'm currently using a 40L/min aquarium/hydroponic pump but can't find any published PSI info. Also, is there a way to turn the air on and off automatically, or do you just do two separate burns and manually activate the air? Thanks for the great video - I look forward to checking out the others in the series!
My first air assist pump was 30L/min and about 5 PSI. I can’t remember off the top of my head if I got that number from the manufacturer or calculated it. And personally, I control the air assist manually. Though it is possible to make it automatic with the right setup.
Don't touch the edges,,, No, seriously, a laser BURNS through the wood, the black marks are soot from that fire; there is no way to avoid that if you are cutting. Depending on the piece that I am working with I will sometimes spray the edges with water and that will in essence "lock" the soot in place so that it does not come off. Another more tedious option is sanding the edges afterwards.
While this is pretty normal, dialing in your power really helps here. A very sooty, black edge typically means you are cutting with too much power or too slow. A material test should reveal the balance of power and speed that will get you decent, repeatable results without turning the edge into charcoal.
Hey Asher, great video. Can you please clarify something for me. @9:39 you are talking about cutting with the air assist on but engraving with it off. I am using the air assist that comes with my Wecreat Vista. How do you set it so it is on, on the cut but off on the engrave in the software?
In my Lightburn, there is a toggle that I can turn to off. I'm not sure what software you're using to send to your laser, but if it's Lightburn, it shows it in your panel when you're inputting your settings. Hope that helps.
Some great info. I have a 24w j tech for my one finity elite that’s been in a box since the only time I tried it. I had air flow on for engraving and it seemed to feed the fire and burned it all. Anywho, just ordered the honeycomb, which I was unaware of and some hod downs. Also the term is jury rig, vs Jerry. Also, also, definitely interested in your course!
I have the same setup as you. I would strongly recommend going to home Depot and by 12 by 18 ceramic tiles if you flip them upside down they have a grid on the back that will allow air to flow. This will save your spoil board.
Hi Asher, Hi from New Zealand. Well just came accross you video today, I did like the vido and have sub. I can see there could be a few different things I could learn from you. I have been laser rngraving two years now, but alway on the look out for new tips and tricks which I havent learnt. Great job
Good point. I personally kind of consider that part of the “air flow” ingredient, but I probably could have talked more about the importance of exhaust overall. Cheers.
I discovered very quickly that it was worth upgrading to an ultimate air assist kit that lets me have "just enough airflow to push smoke away from the lense" and "15 psi (my compressor just isn't that good sacrifices have to be made)" for blowing through"
Has anyone used a cheap airbrush compressor? They are typically adjustable up to 35-40psi and much cheaper, smaller and quieter than those big 'shop' compressors.
The dirtier your honeycomb and pan are, the dirtier the back will be. Also, pitch/resin build up can catch fire...have multiple honeycomb s and keep one clean.
Not so much. Flashback is the laser beam reflecting back. Beam reflect better off of clean and shiny surfaces than they do off of dull and dirty surfaces. Many users new to lasers, complain in laser groups about flashback.... and their laser beds are sparkly clean. I do not have flashback issues, and my laser bed has not been cleaned in a year..... Because I use the correct speed and power to do the job, and excess power is the #1 cause of flashback.
@jonwoodworker I keep my crumbtray clean, and I have like 2 FEET of clearance, so there is very little fure risk. I have been at this o er 4 years ... In set.
![The BEST Way to Color Fill Laser Engravings [29 TESTED]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EdpOVfedSYs/mqdefault.jpg)
Learn laser engraving the simple way: asherdiy.com/bootcamp/
Get free laser files on my email newsletter: asherdiy.com/free-files/
quick tip, you can use upturned bolts in between the holes in the honeycomb to raise elevation and limit scorch marks in place of a jerry rig
Smart - thanks for the idea
What size bolts?
Good plan
@@sirmo667 that depends on your honeycomb. any size that fits snuggly enough so that they don't wobble, but not too tight that you shred your fingers pulling them out. Longer bolts for more clearance.
Thats what I do but I have them the opposite way with a nut on it so I can adjust the height as I use a Co2 and the head is not adjustable
Great series. As an alternative to just using a large compressor is to use an airbrush compressor, which also has the benefit of not being very loud.
In either case it's good to use a local airbrush regulator with filter near the machine. Easier to get low pressure regulation and keeps the airstream clear of moisture and any oil from the compressor.
Nice video. Ingredient 5 would be Material. Both is type and quality. Some materials just do not cut as well as others, and it's not just about thickness. Some materials just create more smoke than others. I think another thing people confuse is smote/soot VS scorching. Scorching is to burn a material with heat. If you can wipe that "Scorch" off with a damp rag, it was just smoke. Smoke is very common, and wiping it off with water or isopropyl alcohol is an easy solution.
Good point, some materials definitely cut cleaner than others.
Great video. Have a question about honey comb grids, what the best way to clean them really good as new? Thanks
Great info on air flow underneath the workpiece. I can’t wait for when you get an Xtool P2 and offer a class series on using the CO2 laser. In the meantime I’ll continue to learn from your diode laser videos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, George - Funny enough, I've actually been testing out a P2 in my shop for the last couple of months. My next video on the channel will be a review of the machine. Cheers!
Great video! Any tips on how to get the sides of the cuts less burnt. I only have Creality falcon 10 W laser. I use laminate plywood now, but maybe their is a better wood? I'm currently trying to make wooden jigsaw puzzles.
Unfortunately, no. But let me know if you find a way, because I'd like to try it too!
Very well put together channel. Subbed and looking forward to new content. Doing a great job, sir.
@@donutman3089 - thanks so much! I’ve got big plans for a new series starting probably early next month :)
I tried your suggestions, removed the honeycomb bed which allowed air between the project and the spoil board, and connected my compressor set at 20 psi to the air assist port on my laser and got no scorching! Now can you suggest an air assist that puts out 20-30 psi, its a pain using my compressor? Most air assists on Amazon are rated in liters per minute which is a volume not a pressure.
Love your videos and they have indeed saved me a lot of time and hassle! Thank you! Also love the shirt as I grew up a few miles away from the North Unit. I spent countless weekends hiking and running around the park, especially around Cannonball Concretion pullout area.
Awesome - glad to hear that!
I am trying to engrave a small map - about 2 1/4 X 3"...can you find one and do a demonstration of fill versus offset fill on it?...and remove the scorching?
Thanks!
No - problem thanks for the tip!
I recieved little snap ons who fit in the honeycomb holes, they allow you to elevate the prt from the honeycomb
I use screen underneath 2mm plywood above honeycomb. Just trying masking tonight. Have assist, using at highest setting. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for taking the time to produce this video, a very informative video, greatly appreciated
Thanks for the guide, guess I need to replace my honeycomb for some applications or put something between it :)
Main downside I see for a big air compressor is that they're much louder and another huge machine you need to put somewhere. Also, is there any max PSI you should use?
Yep - it's definitely louder. I use a California Air Tools compressor, which is quite a bit quieter than a normal pancake air compressor. But it's still loud enough that I usually wear ear protection if I'm running it for an extended period.
I don't know if there's a specific max PSI. It probably depends on what a given laser can handle. But I personally never run it above 35 PSI.
I started with a compressor and went back to an xtools ali express pump just for the noise aspect and wearing out my compressor. It's fine for front only and okish for cutting but obviously I have a compressor for slash and burn if needed.
I picked up an "ultra quiet" direct-drive air compressor a while ago. It was cheap enough, standard 135psi thing, small tank, carry handle, looks like any other. I needed a smaller compressor and figured if it was a little bit quieter then it'd be good enough. It is so quiet! Unbelievable how quiet it is. I mean, it putters along and it can rattle things on the table above where it sits. More noise than a fridge compressor. But, it's surprisingly "ultra quiet." So, they're out there and it's an option. Yeah, I use it for my laser. The hissing air and stepper motors are louder than the compressor. I do worry about duty cycle on longer cuts though.
@@4Fixerdave can you share the model you got ? if you want to isolate the vibes put down some HD foam then a cement flag stone big enough to sit the compressor on above that foam, it will isolate the vibes by at least 70% for next to no cost. the different densities and added mass will solve it .
Very helpful info. I'm going to stop being so lazy, and replace my aquarium pump with my airbrush compressor, today. Thanks!
i have one...but it gets really hot. You would need a bigger one.
@@mpa568 True. Mine gets very hot. I have another compressor that I use for my resin pressure pot. I'm going to switch to that, soon.
@@MileyonDisney
What are you going to buy? I Just bought one of this cheap laser compressors to compare. Dont have results for now. I simply dont have much space in my tiny office (1.8meters x 3meters) ...i cant put a big compressor in there.
Does the 3m adhesive last over time? I would worry about the letters falling off.
Have you looked into a way to be able to use the automatic on/off that is in the Xtool software with a regular compressor?
I have the auto air assist from xtool and it turns on when you cut and off during the engraving so it does what he says gives you good cuts and engraving
@@kaykayW85 I have the same, but his examples show even better with 20 psi which the xtool air assist does not supply. I was hoping he'd come up with an external controller or something to be able to activate a solenoid on the line from the air compressor.
This is a great informative video thanks for sharing.
Now I need to know what do I need to buy to control the flow of my general purpose air compressor similar to yours.
Thanks - and I just added links to all the air assist parts I use in the description of the video. hope that helps!
@@asherdiy Exactly what I needed. Thanks man. Subed and following your videos.
Agreed. Definitely better results: engraving without air... but comes at a cost on my 100watt co2: im constantly cleaning lenses. And have already destroyed my compound lenses
That’s a good point - I’ve had no issue with this on my diode lasers, but on my P2 (co2 laser), I’ve started putting the air assist on as low as I can get it for engravings and anecdotally, this seems to be helping the lens stay cleaner.
I have an xtool s1. I use the air pump but I have an air compressor for my wood working. Would I be able to do this with the s1 or would that mess anything up since the airflow goes through the laser itself?
Great explainer for beginners. 👍
I use the same air settings as you for cut and engrave, but with no air engraving I find I'm cleaning my lens every 10 mins. Have you tried using very little air assist during engraving just to stop the fumes going up and sticking to the lens? Would that be a huge hassle to switch air pressure settings between cutting and engraving all the time?
Thanks - and in theory, I think it is a good idea to have the air assist on low for engraving. It would probably need to be quite low, like around 2-3 PSI, because even running around 5 PSI I’ve gotten scorch marks on the sides of engravings. Personally, I just turn it off completely, but if I were running a more expensive laser, I might spend some more time tinkering to find a low PSI to run for engraving that doesn’t scorch the engravings.So in summary, I do think running air assist on super low while engraving is a good idea if you can find the perfect setting where it doesn’t scorch, but in practice I just turn my air off completely.
@@asherdiy same here. I might experiment with it one day so I don't have to wipe my lens clean every 10mins.
I have A70 and best setting for engraving on auto focus is 6000/50%+air for 3mm plywood
For cutting 1050-100%+air.
That was really helpful, thanks! Question - how do you measure the PSI of the air pump? I'm currently using a 40L/min aquarium/hydroponic pump but can't find any published PSI info. Also, is there a way to turn the air on and off automatically, or do you just do two separate burns and manually activate the air? Thanks for the great video - I look forward to checking out the others in the series!
My first air assist pump was 30L/min and about 5 PSI. I can’t remember off the top of my head if I got that number from the manufacturer or calculated it.
And personally, I control the air assist manually. Though it is possible to make it automatic with the right setup.
@asherdiy maybe the problem of air assist is no related to the pressure, but to the air flow.
after cut, side edge are leaving black marks on my hand. How to resolve this issue ?
Don't touch the edges,,,
No, seriously, a laser BURNS through the wood, the black marks are soot from that fire; there is no way to avoid that if you are cutting. Depending on the piece that I am working with I will sometimes spray the edges with water and that will in essence "lock" the soot in place so that it does not come off. Another more tedious option is sanding the edges afterwards.
While this is pretty normal, dialing in your power really helps here. A very sooty, black edge typically means you are cutting with too much power or too slow. A material test should reveal the balance of power and speed that will get you decent, repeatable results without turning the edge into charcoal.
Hey Asher, great video. Can you please clarify something for me. @9:39 you are talking about cutting with the air assist on but engraving with it off. I am using the air assist that comes with my Wecreat Vista. How do you set it so it is on, on the cut but off on the engrave in the software?
In my Lightburn, there is a toggle that I can turn to off. I'm not sure what software you're using to send to your laser, but if it's Lightburn, it shows it in your panel when you're inputting your settings. Hope that helps.
Some great info. I have a 24w j tech for my one finity elite that’s been in a box since the only time I tried it. I had air flow on for engraving and it seemed to feed the fire and burned it all. Anywho, just ordered the honeycomb, which I was unaware of and some hod downs. Also the term is jury rig, vs Jerry. Also, also, definitely interested in your course!
Cheers, Todd - thanks for watching!
I have the same setup as you. I would strongly recommend going to home Depot and by 12 by 18 ceramic tiles if you flip them upside down they have a grid on the back that will allow air to flow. This will save your spoil board.
What type of panel are you using @ 3:15?
Hi Asher, Hi from New Zealand. Well just came accross you video today, I did like the vido and have sub. I can see there could be a few different things I could learn from you. I have been laser rngraving two years now, but alway on the look out for new tips and tricks which I havent learnt. Great job
Thanks, Ian - I’m a big fan of your country. Had one of the best hikes of my life doing the Milford Track there a few years ago.
Really great breakdown. Appreciate you!
What connectors did you use to connect to the air compressor
Good question - I just updated the description of this video to now include links to the tubing kit and other parts I use for my air assist set-up.
Ingredient #5: exhaust. Without adequate exhaust, your engravings will be scorched. Otherwise, very thorough. Thanks!
Good point. I personally kind of consider that part of the “air flow” ingredient, but I probably could have talked more about the importance of exhaust overall. Cheers.
really good and informative! subscribed! :)
I discovered very quickly that it was worth upgrading to an ultimate air assist kit that lets me have "just enough airflow to push smoke away from the lense" and "15 psi (my compressor just isn't that good sacrifices have to be made)" for blowing through"
Has anyone used a cheap airbrush compressor? They are typically adjustable up to 35-40psi and much cheaper, smaller and quieter than those big 'shop' compressors.
I haven’t tried it, but I don’t see any reason it wouldn’t work.
Yes. I had an extra one. That is what I use!
Turning off air pump makes the lens of diode lasers dirty/cloudy which affects cutting power.
Great content. Thanks for posting.
Thanks, Larry - glad you liked it!
So far i havent been able to use air assist on my xTool F1 Ultra
The dirtier your honeycomb and pan are, the dirtier the back will be. Also, pitch/resin build up can catch fire...have multiple honeycomb s and keep one clean.
Great point - I definitely need to clean mine.
Excellent point! Use LA awsome, inexpensive and really cuts through the pitch/glue. And smells so much better than the green stuff.
Not so much. Flashback is the laser beam reflecting back. Beam reflect better off of clean and shiny surfaces than they do off of dull and dirty surfaces. Many users new to lasers, complain in laser groups about flashback.... and their laser beds are sparkly clean. I do not have flashback issues, and my laser bed has not been cleaned in a year..... Because I use the correct speed and power to do the job, and excess power is the #1 cause of flashback.
@LithosAndLasers Make sure your insurance will cover you when your laser catches fire.
@jonwoodworker I keep my crumbtray clean, and I have like 2 FEET of clearance, so there is very little fure risk. I have been at this o er 4 years ... In set.
Ty. :)
Thanks for watching!
Jury rigged :)
That is what I thought but I constantly hear (read) it both ways! I wonder which was original (if either)?
Save time? You can do a lot of sanding in the one month it took you to perfect this.
That's true, and that is what I did before this. However, once you get a set-up like this dialed-in, the time savings compound over time.
But without air assist during engraving you have to clean the lens very often. It's also taking much of the time.
@@asherdiyYou’re helping me save a lot of time by sharing your lessons learned. Thank you.
@@87wlodek His comment was regarding "Quality" not "Quantity"; you very rarely get both!
Or you can use an uv laser, that is a cold laser, that’s it!!