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Good video. I’m buying one tomorrow, just wanted to know what I’m getting myself into. I can fix lawnmowers, so after watching your video, I’m feeling confident.😊
Nice work. Like this job I have found that the fuel lines need to be changed every couple years. They may last longer if you use alcohol free gas in the engine. The "Prohibition Gas" doesn't cause the gaskets and seals to dissolve and the die cast body to corrode.
Yep, the ethanol in today's fuel is rough on small engines. I've found that I can safely use it if I put Sta-bil in all of my gas cans and if I buy the right fuel line but ethanol-free fuel is still the best. The fuel lines that the manufacturer of this cultivator chose to use didn't even last a year. However, the original fuel lines on my Troy-Bilt string trimmer lasted 13 years before need to be replaced last year. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
@@Mikeattempts I have steel fuel cans that the alcohol corrodes. The Prohibition gas desn't need Sta-bil to over winter. Pay a buck more a gallon for the prohibition gas or buy Sta-bil and mix it. Not good either way. 😁😎
Yes, it matters only because you want to have the filter on the end of the intake line. The top port on the carb is the return line. The line below is the intake and will have the fuel filter on the other end.
My pull chord won't pull more than 5 inches and won't let me pull out all the way. I took if off and it works. I called support and they told me to clean the carb. Would the carb lock up the engine and not let me pull the chord? Anyone know?
What?!? I'm no pro but I can't think of any way that the carb could have any effect on the pull cord. If the pull cord works smooth when removed, then it kinda sounds like your piston might be binding up. Are you able to rotate the crank with the pull cord removed?
Nice video. Easy to follow along. After reassembling when I’m on run and give it full power it stalls out. Does the idle or throttle need to be adjusted?
If I remember correctly, there aren't any adjustments on this carb. I'm no pro but, if you can get it to start easily and idle, my only thought is that there's still something plugging one of those tiny ports inside the carb. I'm curious so, if you get it figured out, let me know. Thanks for the comment!
There's a choke lever on the back side of the air cleaner housing, but I don't think there is a spring for the choke. There is a spring at the end of the throttle cable, on the rear of the carburetor.
As long as you either use fuel stabilizer or drain the fuel before winter storage, you shouldn't really need to check anything. However, it wouldn't hurt to check the air filter and add some fresh fuel.
The throttle assembly is attached to the back of the carburetor, on the opposite side of the primer bulb. Look at 10:02 again and be sure everything is in the same orientation on yours when reinstalling. Also, I believe that's the idle screw sticking out of the top, make sure you didn't accidentally screw it all the way in, it should be sticking up like mine.
Unfortunately, there's no rebuild kit for the carb. If you can't get it clean, you can order a new carb. For mine, it's part number 11334 but you can look up parts for your exact model here: ardisam.com/parts
Stores tiller all winter forgot to shut off/drain gas. Started first pull, used it for hours. Then started to idle funny. Drained gas, 93 octane. Won’t start. Sprayed quick start carb cleaner, it will run for a second but stop. I think I need the carb cleaned. I 1000% will lose parts!
I'm not sure if you saw my other video on this tiller but the fuel lines had rotted out and needed to be replaced. That's how my carb ended up getting dirty inside so be sure to check your fuel lines. If you lose any pieces, you could always buy a replacement carb and then you wouldn't hafta mess with the insides. :)
These types of carbs aren't adjustable. The process of starting any small engine is pretty much the same. 1.) Press the primer bulb 5-6 times. 2.) Set choke to full and pull the string until it sounds like it wants to start. 3.) Set choke to half and pull until it starts, wait a few seconds, set the choke to none, let it warm up a few more seconds, and then start using the tool.
@@jimmyhuffman6802 Does it stay running after you use starting fluid? If so then I'd clean the spark plug with a wire brush and ensure the gap is set correctly. Make sure the air filter isn't soaked with fuel. It also wouldn't hurt to try some fresh gas. If none of that helps then I'd try cleaning the carb.
Carb Cleaner:
amzn.to/2HhQLdN (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
One of the better to the point videos out there.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback!
Good video. I’m buying one tomorrow, just wanted to know what I’m getting myself into. I can fix lawnmowers, so after watching your video, I’m feeling confident.😊
Yeah, it's a good little machine but I would imagine you'd have fewer of these issues if you only ran non-ethanol fuel from the start.
Oh very nice and thorough job thorough commentation and clear video are very much appreciated for old eyes 😂
Thanks for the positive feedback, I'm glad the video was helpful! :)
Nice work.
Like this job I have found that the fuel lines need to be changed every couple years. They may last longer if you use alcohol free gas in the engine. The "Prohibition Gas" doesn't cause the gaskets and seals to dissolve and the die cast body to corrode.
Yep, the ethanol in today's fuel is rough on small engines. I've found that I can safely use it if I put Sta-bil in all of my gas cans and if I buy the right fuel line but ethanol-free fuel is still the best. The fuel lines that the manufacturer of this cultivator chose to use didn't even last a year. However, the original fuel lines on my Troy-Bilt string trimmer lasted 13 years before need to be replaced last year. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
@@Mikeattempts I have steel fuel cans that the alcohol corrodes.
The Prohibition gas desn't need Sta-bil to over winter.
Pay a buck more a gallon for the prohibition gas or buy Sta-bil and mix it.
Not good either way. 😁😎
Great job showing all the details. My problem, with my Sears mini-rototiller, came with the reassembly of throttle...
Yeah, those throttle assemblies can be a pain, thanks for watching!
Molto bravo e molto chiaro. Hai riportato ogni dettaglio in maniera perfetta. Ottimo lavoro.👍👍👍
Thanks! :)
Grazie a te Mike, well done !!! :)
Such a great video and explanation. Thank you.
I'm glad the video was helpful, thanks for the feedback!
Good vid, I just did the same thing with a huskee mini tiller. Thanks
Thanks for watching! :)
Perfect! My exact carb I need to clean. Well done!
Thanks, let me know how it goes!
It could use it matter which line has the filter on it I don't know which one goes where on a carb
Yes, it matters only because you want to have the filter on the end of the intake line. The top port on the carb is the return line. The line below is the intake and will have the fuel filter on the other end.
Thanks bro I appreciate it 😊
@@RandyBrown-cc4vb No problem, thanks for watching!
Extremely good video
Thanks for the positive feedback, I appreciate it! :)
Quick and easy watch
Thanks for watching! :)
My pull chord won't pull more than 5 inches and won't let me pull out all the way. I took if off and it works. I called support and they told me to clean the carb. Would the carb lock up the engine and not let me pull the chord? Anyone know?
What?!? I'm no pro but I can't think of any way that the carb could have any effect on the pull cord. If the pull cord works smooth when removed, then it kinda sounds like your piston might be binding up. Are you able to rotate the crank with the pull cord removed?
Thanks. I had the same problem. You solved it!😊
I'm glad the video was helpful, thank you for the comment! :)
Good video, I found it's cheaper just to replace than rebuild
It's definitely easier to replace a carb but it's not cheaper. Cleaning just costs your time.
Nice video. Easy to follow along. After reassembling when I’m on run and give it full power it stalls out. Does the idle or throttle need to be adjusted?
If I remember correctly, there aren't any adjustments on this carb. I'm no pro but, if you can get it to start easily and idle, my only thought is that there's still something plugging one of those tiny ports inside the carb. I'm curious so, if you get it figured out, let me know. Thanks for the comment!
Is there a choke button with a spring behind it on the air cleaner cover?
There's a choke lever on the back side of the air cleaner housing, but I don't think there is a spring for the choke. There is a spring at the end of the throttle cable, on the rear of the carburetor.
WHT should checkup when first start forseason
As long as you either use fuel stabilizer or drain the fuel before winter storage, you shouldn't really need to check anything. However, it wouldn't hurt to check the air filter and add some fresh fuel.
Currently got my carb apart watching this video..
Were you able to get it running?
@@Mikeattempts ordered the carb tuning tools. So i can turn in and out the main jets
Excellent
Thanks! :)
I use high test 93 octane ,no water in it😊😊😊😊😊🤔🤔🤔wash it every use.
What if you clean the whole carburetor and it still bogs and you know the carburetor good what else can be a problem
I'm no pro but it could be a clogged fuel filter or air filter.
my throttle is open after install and upon turning over. what could be the problem
The throttle assembly is attached to the back of the carburetor, on the opposite side of the primer bulb. Look at 10:02 again and be sure everything is in the same orientation on yours when reinstalling. Also, I believe that's the idle screw sticking out of the top, make sure you didn't accidentally screw it all the way in, it should be sticking up like mine.
Mike what is the part #
Unfortunately, there's no rebuild kit for the carb. If you can't get it clean, you can order a new carb. For mine, it's part number 11334 but you can look up parts for your exact model here: ardisam.com/parts
Stores tiller all winter forgot to shut off/drain gas. Started first pull, used it for hours. Then started to idle funny. Drained gas, 93 octane. Won’t start. Sprayed quick start carb cleaner, it will run for a second but stop.
I think I need the carb cleaned. I 1000% will lose parts!
I'm not sure if you saw my other video on this tiller but the fuel lines had rotted out and needed to be replaced. That's how my carb ended up getting dirty inside so be sure to check your fuel lines. If you lose any pieces, you could always buy a replacement carb and then you wouldn't hafta mess with the insides. :)
thanks for video
Thanks for watching! :)
I have two of them
Why do you have 2, do they have different blades?
You are good!!!
Thanks, I appreciate it! :)
Just like your last video,you showed us nothing. How to adjust these junkers. You didn't really show us you starting it.
These types of carbs aren't adjustable. The process of starting any small engine is pretty much the same. 1.) Press the primer bulb 5-6 times. 2.) Set choke to full and pull the string until it sounds like it wants to start. 3.) Set choke to half and pull until it starts, wait a few seconds, set the choke to none, let it warm up a few more seconds, and then start using the tool.
@@Mikeattempts mine won't start until I hit it with some starting fluid?
@@jimmyhuffman6802 Does it stay running after you use starting fluid? If so then I'd clean the spark plug with a wire brush and ensure the gap is set correctly. Make sure the air filter isn't soaked with fuel. It also wouldn't hurt to try some fresh gas. If none of that helps then I'd try cleaning the carb.
Primer bulb. It’s kinda of the same thing regarding the gas you use.