i run my stuff dry every-time. In fact, I never use the off switch, just turn the fuel off and let them run till they're dry. You'll never have a fuel problem
I know this is an older post, but when you opened the air filter, you mentioned it was dry. I have a powermate tiller that does not start and when I prime it, gas ends up saturating the air filter. It has not been started in 2 yrs and the fuel was left in it. Other than the possibility of only needing fresh gas and a new plug, what would cause the gas to get all over the air filter? Thanks
sure, the fuel that was left in the tiller might have deformed the metering diaphragm inside the carb. This controls the fuel flow thru the carb and if it's damaged it could be causing your problem
Have the same viper engine. starts fine but when I move the choke to run position and try to rev up it stalls. only about five months old but I left gas in it when stored. checked filter and gas lines seem to be ok. Could ethanol gas caused a problem? Thanks Bob
Bought it brand new used it 3 times even my husband cat get it started and says he has no time to mess with it. Of course there is gas in it if you can't put it away with gas in the tank for a few days to a week, it's a JUNK machine. One video said could be carburetor. Brand new out of the box and won't start after 3 use POS I expect my equipment to work. Now I'm hand weeding because the Earthquake cultivator (brand new) WONT START bought from Menards. So disappointed.
When I bought my first chainsaw 48 years ago, the dealer told me to never run the saw out of gas. To this day, before storing any of my 15 or so 2 cycle pieces of equipment, I fill the tanks with fresh non ethanol, treated fuel. I then start and run them for a few minutes and then put them away until they are needed next season. For equipment that might not be used on a regular basis I first shake the piece of equipment to mix the fuel and then start and run them at least every 6 months. Over the years, this has worked for me as that chainsaw I bought 48 years ago still runs and I have only had to rebuild the carburetor once.
Thanks for posting this video. I have not run mine this year, but looks like I put it away and didn't drain the gas when last used. Actually, it was my yard guy who put it away this past year and not really me. I have a dethatcher unit ordered for it and plan to try to get that in use soon. I have arthritis in my hands and don't have much grip these days or oomph in my grip. I planned to replace the spark plug, but was not sure if that was a metal cap that simply pulls off the end of that plug or not. Is there any special way to remove the spark plug wire to remove the old plug and replace it? I was unsure about that kill switch, as it is indeed difficult to read as to it being on or off. I did try to crank mine off the other day, but it was cold outside and I really didn't put much effort into doing it at the time. I am hoping to get on to doing this soon. However, we have a lot of construction going on in our back yard presently, where some cable company ripped up a bunch of lines and blew up the transformer that was in my back yard. They took out our cable, our dish network, our internet and our power for 2 days with their boring machine. Gads, what a mess. Any rate, this video will help when I do finally get back to trying to crank off my tiller. Thanks.
I think Alan's way is best. We dont have an off season in southern AZ so there is no long storage. Biggest fuel problem to watch for down here is for the guys that use castor/red line high performance 2 stroke oil. It will seperate from the fuel if held below freezing for any length of time. Great video and 👏👏👏 to Alan too.
One of the 1st things the old sawyer/logger taught me was as soon as you turn something off, turn it right back on as soon as it quits running as far as a saw or trimmer or blower. My wood splitter has one of those puny little switches so I mounted and wired an emergency stop switch next to the hydraulic control valve lever so if something happens like a oil line popping it can be shut off without having to run around the machine. Stuff like this ought to be standard but it sure isn't and of COURSE, you're going to fix it! Blessings!
Got mine at the dumpster. Put a new carb fuel lines and filter on it. It runs good but if cold it only starts with the use of starting fluid. Tried choke and carb adjustment. Any suggestions?
@@HomeGaragechannelYep! Apparently the primer bulb is not spraying gas into the throat of the carb. Made sure gaskets and hoses were on correctly. No big deal I don't need the tiller often anyway Thank you for the response.
Hey, why didn't you use that Arnold syphon pump you bought to remove the gas from this unit? Seems like you would want to get your full $5.00 purchase price worth out of it. :-)
Excellent video. I'll be testing this now. I've got a similar tiller with out a nowhere issues. Also yes I'll run machines dry before storage, less chance of issue later on I've noticed
Store my with fuel : but I always use 93 octane ethanol free and I always use sti-bil in mine and use sea foam additive too . No problems - O mines never stored outside in the elements. Mines always under shelter . Just got one of these Earthquake's to work on , they said it just quit running - plans of checking the spark first after I first try to start it . And will go on too the carburetor from there ......
Ur right! my dad brought me my inlaws brute tiller and it wont start, thr was a small amount of gas in it but what we didnt know was that moisture had build up inside the fuel line to the botom of the cuburator after about 5 months storage. We pumped the gas out n drain the cuburator n found some small dirt and moisture it was about 2 pea size enough to block the fuel to the sparkplug. We add the new fuel and after six pulls with open throttle it started right up!
I own the same machine and I have stored it for a while .. Now it only works when the tank is empty and the fuel is in the tubes only and once I fill the tank it turns off !!!! Hlp pls.
I got one identical to this one and customer couldn't get it starter either - long story short - gas line rotted off in gas tank - installed new lines and fixed it - mean little machine .
I do not let it run dry for storing:you might get all the garbage from the bottom into the carb.If you clean the tank every season i guess you can let it run dry.
I installed a fuel shut-off valve on my mower and run the carb. dry after each use. On my two-stroke equipment, I store it with ethanol-free during the season. After the season, I drain the fuel out of all my equipment.
I know this is an old post' but I got that same machine. My question is, does it have adjustment screws for H and L ? And if it does, where? Mine won't idle. I cleaned the carb, replaced the end of the line filter. Replaced the lines, and the priming bulb. Runs fine while depressing the throttle on high rpm. Dies on idle.
This one didn't have a sticker. Do you still have to move the lever down to start it and then move it up to run it? If the sticker is upside down then take it off and turn it around. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
@@HomeGaragechannel It is backwards. 4 years of hair pulling... I bought it new and every time I managed to get it running was just because I fiddled with the lever and kept cranking. They owe me a new tiller...
My earthquake won't start...changed spark plug, took old fuel out...I spray carb cleaner in. It cranks for a second or 2..dies. blew out fuel lines...clear. now what?
I run the field out of every machine there's a lot of moisture in the air up here and every bit of moisture I get out of the engine or a chance to get moisture in the engine I do
I replaced the carb with a new one hoping that it would solve my starting problem, but the tiller still does not want to start. I have a good spark, the kill switch is in ON position. After many attempts the engine does not want to fire. The carburator looks dry as if no fuel is being sucked into the cylinder. There is fuel in the bulb and in the lines. Fuel is fresh. Can anybody help?
Thank you responding to my question. You were correct, the exhaust valve was stuck and as soon I got it moving again I started the motor with first pull. That made me very happy.
it should whistle until fuel fills the bulb. So that means, it should stop whistling after a few presses. And if it doesn't fill, it means theres something wrong with part of the fuel system, either carb, lines, or filter.
Is there some sort of a trick to get the recoil back together on these. I took one apart to change the pull rope and can't get the spring back in. I'm about ready to just buy a new one.
I have one that is exactly the same ,my problem is that the rope is hard to pull,i take the plug out it pulls like a breeze .I have tried every thing took it all apart still the same ,Mr Gordon any advise😂😂😂😂😂😁
Southland 43cc 2 cycle... bought from pawn shop. Started on 2nd pull burnt through almost all fuel in it. Store for 2 weeks, now it won't start. Had a little oil leak from the muffler when it started for a minute but wouldn't idle. Also the pull cord has moments where it won't come out far like it should, maybe 3rd or half the length. Any overall advice??
Remover the spark plug and pull it over several times. If its still doing the same with the rope you've got some problems then. If the rope comes out all the way put a little bit of mixed gas in the tank, prime it and then try starting it.
@@HomeGaragechannel I have a feeling that's what it is. I'm going to clean the plug, put fresh gas in, spray some carb clean/staring fluid and see what that does. If it's still rough then my guess would be the clutch? Odd note, was searching several keywords to the problems and kept finding you vids. Not to sound weird but your calm steady approach to small engine repair gives me confidence I've not had before. Thanks for all the help!
@@HomeGaragechannel no problem you have good content. Just an update, nothing fixed it. It's leaking fuel from the carb but the cord seemed to be OK until the 30th yank then went back to being funny. Had to quit due to blisters
Ours won't start - already changed the fuel lines (were cracked), the carb (gas wasn't going through it), air filter, and a new spark plug. Gonna check the gas tomororw, but if that's not it, what's left?
Thank you for the comment. The next thing is the diaphragms in the carb. If there are hard and nothing flexible then you will need to replace them if not the whole carb.
@@lookintomyeyes83 sorry missed that part. Have you confirmed there is spark at the spark plug? Also have can can you borrow a compression checker from a mechanic to test the compression from the engine?
@@HomeGaragechannel Changed out the spark plug, and tested the ignition coil (which did spark it) so those seem ok. I dont have a way to check compression unfortunately...anything else you'd suggest? Id bought it used, and it ran well for two years before dying suddenly in-use.
I do not see a primer button on mine. I have a earthquake badger 3365 Ran perfectly the last few years, loaned it out , and now it won't start. There was hardly any gas in it. I can drain the fuel , but shouldn't there be a primer button? Also why are there 2 chokes?
on your earthquake it as a different type of engine than the one in this video, and it doesn't not have a bulb. Also, if there are two levers, one is for choke, while the other is for the throttle. I would download the owner's manual for yours and it will give you all the information you need about it.
@@HomeGaragechannel I will look again, I have the manual but it has several instructions for different models which makes it hard to understand. Thank You
@@JB_Photog it sounds correct. Have you looked at the filter? Sometimes it can varnish and not allow any gas to flow to the carb. Pull it out and spray it with some carb cleaner
i run my stuff dry every-time. In fact, I never use the off switch, just turn the fuel off and let them run till they're dry. You'll never have a fuel problem
Excellent method. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
Great idea, I never thought of that. Thanks.
I know this is an older post, but when you opened the air filter, you mentioned it was dry. I have a powermate tiller that does not start and when I prime it, gas ends up saturating the air filter.
It has not been started in 2 yrs and the fuel was left in it. Other than the possibility of only needing fresh gas and a new plug, what would cause the gas to get all over the air filter?
Thanks
sure, the fuel that was left in the tiller might have deformed the metering diaphragm inside the carb. This controls the fuel flow thru the carb and if it's damaged it could be causing your problem
It would be cool to see a complete restoration on a old small engine or trimmer or a rebuild
i have thought about it but need to make sure i can get the parts.
Perfect timing for this video as I just got one of these for free on 5/9/19. I just hope it's an easy a fix as yours!
Excellent I hope it works out for you.
How many turns do u set the screw at for gas and air
I don't know and beside the setting are not the same for all carbs.
I have a earthquake rear tine tiller can’t pull the pull cord it only goes a very small way and can’t turn over the engine.
remove the spark plug and try it again. If it still won't budge then the engine is stuck.
Have the same viper engine. starts fine but when I move the choke to run position and try to rev up it stalls. only about five months old but I left gas in it when stored. checked filter and gas lines seem to be ok. Could ethanol gas caused a problem? Thanks Bob
Yes ethanol could have caused it. If possible use ethanol free gas. Try replacing the carb. Thank you for the comment I appreciate it
What does it mean if filter is wet?
If its wet with fuel then the carb is leaking gas
A little engine fogger goes a long way.
yes you are absolutely right about that.
Bought it brand new used it 3 times even my husband cat get it started and says he has no time to mess with it. Of course there is gas in it if you can't put it away with gas in the tank for a few days to a week, it's a JUNK machine. One video said could be carburetor. Brand new out of the box and won't start after 3 use POS I expect my equipment to work. Now I'm hand weeding because the Earthquake cultivator (brand new) WONT START bought from Menards. So disappointed.
sorry to hear that.
When I bought my first chainsaw 48 years ago, the dealer told me to never run the saw out of gas. To this day, before storing any of my 15 or so 2 cycle pieces of equipment, I fill the tanks with fresh non ethanol, treated fuel. I then start and run them for a few minutes and then put them away until they are needed next season. For equipment that might not be used on a regular basis I first shake the piece of equipment to mix the fuel and then start and run them at least every 6 months. Over the years, this has worked for me as that chainsaw I bought 48 years ago still runs and I have only had to rebuild the carburetor once.
thanks for sharing your experience William Dils.
This is the biggest piece of crap I have ever owned. Brand new, used once and the stupid think wont start at all. Never again.
sorry to hear that. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it.
You done fixed it? Well, I'll be damned. Scooter told me it couldn't be fixed.
Thanks for posting this video. I have not run mine this year, but looks like I put it away and didn't drain the gas when last used. Actually, it was my yard guy who put it away this past year and not really me. I have a dethatcher unit ordered for it and plan to try to get that in use soon. I have arthritis in my hands and don't have much grip these days or oomph in my grip. I planned to replace the spark plug, but was not sure if that was a metal cap that simply pulls off the end of that plug or not. Is there any special way to remove the spark plug wire to remove the old plug and replace it? I was unsure about that kill switch, as it is indeed difficult to read as to it being on or off. I did try to crank mine off the other day, but it was cold outside and I really didn't put much effort into doing it at the time. I am hoping to get on to doing this soon. However, we have a lot of construction going on in our back yard presently, where some cable company ripped up a bunch of lines and blew up the transformer that was in my back yard. They took out our cable, our dish network, our internet and our power for 2 days with their boring machine. Gads, what a mess. Any rate, this video will help when I do finally get back to trying to crank off my tiller. Thanks.
maybe some pliers would help you get the wire off the spark plug?
I finally figured out your siphon setup, sweet!
All my stuff is drained and run dry before storing, in S Fla, it just a couple of months, at best.
Took me awhile to figure it out myself.
I put fuel stabilizer in my equipment then run it dry. This has always worked well for me. You can't beat an easy fix like that 👍
I think Alan's way is best. We dont have an off season in southern AZ so there is no long storage. Biggest fuel problem to watch for down here is for the guys that use castor/red line high performance 2 stroke oil. It will seperate from the fuel if held below freezing for any length of time. Great video and 👏👏👏 to Alan too.
Thank you Alan Marshall for the comment. That's a great way of protecting your equipment.
Excellent. I'll have to look out for that here too. I appreciate it.
One of the 1st things the old sawyer/logger taught me was as soon as you turn something off, turn it right back on as soon as it quits running as far as a saw or trimmer or blower. My wood splitter has one of those puny little switches so I mounted and wired an emergency stop switch next to the hydraulic control valve lever so if something happens like a oil line popping it can be shut off without having to run around the machine. Stuff like this ought to be standard but it sure isn't and of COURSE, you're going to fix it! Blessings!
Got mine at the dumpster. Put a new carb fuel lines and filter on it. It runs good but if cold it only starts with the use of starting fluid. Tried choke and carb adjustment. Any suggestions?
can you confirm that the choke flap completely seals the carbs throat when closed?
@@HomeGaragechannelYep! Apparently the primer bulb is not spraying gas into the throat of the carb. Made sure gaskets and hoses were on correctly. No big deal I don't need the tiller often anyway Thank you for the response.
@@bleepnsheep2310 no problem
Hey, why didn't you use that Arnold syphon pump you bought to remove the gas from this unit? Seems like you would want to get your full $5.00 purchase price worth out of it. :-)
its actually quite a hassle to use it.
Weird to have a kill switch on the air filter
Its definitely not what I would have done.
Excellent video. I'll be testing this now. I've got a similar tiller with out a nowhere issues.
Also yes I'll run machines dry before storage, less chance of issue later on I've noticed
Thanks for the comment I appreciate it. Goog luck hope you get it running.
Store my with fuel : but I always use 93 octane ethanol free and I always use sti-bil in mine and use sea foam additive too . No problems - O mines never stored outside in the elements. Mines always under shelter . Just got one of these Earthquake's to work on , they said it just quit running - plans of checking the spark first after I first try to start it . And will go on too the carburetor from there ......
Thank you Marshall Border for the comment
Ur right! my dad brought me my inlaws brute tiller and it wont start, thr was a small amount of gas in it but what we didnt know was that moisture had build up inside the fuel line to the botom of the cuburator after about 5 months storage. We pumped the gas out n drain the cuburator n found some small dirt and moisture it was about 2 pea size enough to block the fuel to the sparkplug. We add the new fuel and after six pulls with open throttle it started right up!
Nice work. Yes gas and storage don't go together very well.
First check gas and oil. Then try to start it using proper method. Check for spark. Check compression. If it's been sitting, replace the carburetor.
Excellent answer
i like the squeeze bottle trick, I was looking for an easy way to siphon. Thanks.
Thanks I appreciate the comment.
I own the same machine and I have stored it for a while .. Now it only works when the tank is empty and the fuel is in the tubes only and once I fill the tank it turns off !!!!
Hlp pls.
Try running half a tank and leave the gas cap slightly cracked. If that doesn't work replace the carb
I got one identical to this one and customer couldn't get it starter either - long story short - gas line rotted off in gas tank - installed new lines and fixed it - mean little machine .
Nice work Marshall Border. Thank you for the comment I appreciate it
I do not let it run dry for storing:you might get all the garbage from the bottom into the carb.If you clean the tank every season i guess you can let it run dry.
thank you Anthony Triolo
I installed a fuel shut-off valve on my mower and run the carb. dry after each use. On my two-stroke equipment, I store it with ethanol-free during the season. After the season, I drain the fuel out of all my equipment.
Excellent. You really care about your equipment. Thanks for the comment.
Changing plug mc43 viper earthquaķe
I know this is an old post' but I got that same machine. My question is, does it have adjustment screws for H and L ? And if it does, where? Mine won't idle. I cleaned the carb, replaced the end of the line filter. Replaced the lines, and the priming bulb. Runs fine while depressing the throttle on high rpm. Dies on idle.
I do not believe the stock carb has an L or an H adjustment screw, the aftermarket one has them though.
@@HomeGaragechannel Thank's for the quick reply. I bought one on Amazon yesterday. I will practice with this one, until I get my replacement.
@@dragonsuicida1 excellent
I think the run/start sticker on my tiller is backwards. When you started yours the airflow was restricted. Mine set on start is wide open
This one didn't have a sticker. Do you still have to move the lever down to start it and then move it up to run it? If the sticker is upside down then take it off and turn it around. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
@@HomeGaragechannel It is backwards. 4 years of hair pulling... I bought it new and every time I managed to get it running was just because I fiddled with the lever and kept cranking. They owe me a new tiller...
That's super frustrating.
And I put mine up wet - but I use ethanol free gas, stay bill fuel stabilizer, and seafoam, never had a problem so far !
Excellent work. That's a really good preventive measures. Thank you for the comment I appreciate it
Yes i all ways run dry and put fresh petrol in affer storage i find it the best way
I completely agree with you
My earthquake won't start...changed spark plug, took old fuel out...I spray carb cleaner in. It cranks for a second or 2..dies. blew out fuel lines...clear. now what?
I would Replace the carb. Its only a few dollars and isn't hard to do. Otherwise you can rebuild the carb.
@@HomeGaragechannel ok. Thanks.
@@richardreza8250 no problem
I run the field out of every machine there's a lot of moisture in the air up here and every bit of moisture I get out of the engine or a chance to get moisture in the engine I do
that's a very good reason. thank you Robert Nelson.
CHeck the basics first this time you did it on the right way home and you didn’t have to break the entire engine
Thanks Uni Sol for the comment. Yes you're right.
I replaced the carb with a new one hoping that it would solve my starting problem, but the tiller still does not want to start. I have a good spark, the kill switch is in ON position. After many attempts the engine does not want to fire. The carburator looks dry as if no fuel is being sucked into the cylinder. There is fuel in the bulb and in the lines. Fuel is fresh. Can anybody help?
Does it run if you put some gas in the carbs throat? If not then the compression might be low.
Thank you responding to my question. You were correct, the exhaust valve was stuck and as soon I got it moving again I started the motor with first pull. That made me very happy.
@@annamontana2000 excellent work. Thank you for the update.
I ALWAYS run my equipment dry BEFORE storage...
that's always the best way. thank you Samuel Velez
Nice catch.
I usually try and empty the tanks out and run them til they shut off due to no more fuel in the lines.
Excellent work. Most forget to do that.
if you push the primer ball and it whistles does that mean its bad i can see no gas on the floor
it should whistle until fuel fills the bulb. So that means, it should stop whistling after a few presses. And if it doesn't fill, it means theres something wrong with part of the fuel system, either carb, lines, or filter.
Hi ,I'm john mines did have water so drained it and went with new gas and it still want start
I would then replace the Carb.
I have a yardmax machine look like is getting overheated and when that happen the machine run slow and stop
I need a model and serial number.
YT4565
Good thing i open the page i have the same tiller now i got info to work on mine Thank You
Thank you Melecio Ybarra for the comment I appreciate it.
I put it away with gas in it but it'll stay running soon as I give it gas it bogs down
the carb needs to be serviced or replaced.
Is there some sort of a trick to get the recoil back together on these. I took one apart to change the pull rope and can't get the spring back in. I'm about ready to just buy a new one.
unfortunately I haven't had to work on the recoil, on one of these so I don't have any good advice.
our roto tiller rope start has a very bad Kick back and will not start ????Need help
I need to know what model you have to help out.
@@HomeGaragechannel I have the Model MC43CC Viper Tiller Thank's
I have one that is exactly the same ,my problem is that the rope is hard to pull,i take the plug out it pulls like a breeze .I have tried every thing took it all apart still the same ,Mr Gordon any advise😂😂😂😂😂😁
quick question, when was the last time you Hear it run? I'm curious because I'm wondering if it's flooding and the fuel is hydrolocking your engine
@@HomeGaragechannel over a year,Thank you. I watch your long video and they are mind stimulating and relaxing i hope you will have them more often.
I most certainly do, thank you
If you can help me I will appreciate that , thank you
I need a model and serial number.
Bought used fuel line pulled out put back won't start
is the line you pulled out the filter line or is the other line the filter line?
Southland 43cc 2 cycle... bought from pawn shop. Started on 2nd pull burnt through almost all fuel in it. Store for 2 weeks, now it won't start. Had a little oil leak from the muffler when it started for a minute but wouldn't idle.
Also the pull cord has moments where it won't come out far like it should, maybe 3rd or half the length.
Any overall advice??
Remover the spark plug and pull it over several times. If its still doing the same with the rope you've got some problems then. If the rope comes out all the way put a little bit of mixed gas in the tank, prime it and then try starting it.
@@HomeGaragechannel I have a feeling that's what it is. I'm going to clean the plug, put fresh gas in, spray some carb clean/staring fluid and see what that does. If it's still rough then my guess would be the clutch?
Odd note, was searching several keywords to the problems and kept finding you vids. Not to sound weird but your calm steady approach to small engine repair gives me confidence I've not had before. Thanks for all the help!
@@dodgersfnshepard8673 I appreciate your comment a lot. Thanks and good luck.
@@HomeGaragechannel no problem you have good content.
Just an update, nothing fixed it. It's leaking fuel from the carb but the cord seemed to be OK until the 30th yank then went back to being funny. Had to quit due to blisters
@@dodgersfnshepard8673 that stinks.
I usually Keep the fuel in the tank with a fuel stabilizer in the tank.
Yes that's the other option. Thanks for the comment.
Dry
Thanks
Briggs and Stratton pull start won’t ingage
sure, take off the recoil assembly and spray the starter pawls, and the retainer with brake cleaner.
Never ran any small motor dry to store, never used stabilizer. I'm 78 and have used and repaired small engines all my life.
nice
I ALWAYS add fuel stabilizer. Serves my engines well as they are being used,; Saves the day when they have been stored.
great advice
Ours won't start - already changed the fuel lines (were cracked), the carb (gas wasn't going through it), air filter, and a new spark plug. Gonna check the gas tomororw, but if that's not it, what's left?
Thank you for the comment. The next thing is the diaphragms in the carb. If there are hard and nothing flexible then you will need to replace them if not the whole carb.
@@HomeGaragechannel I already replaced the entire carburetor as mentioned above.
@@lookintomyeyes83 sorry missed that part. Have you confirmed there is spark at the spark plug? Also have can can you borrow a compression checker from a mechanic to test the compression from the engine?
@@HomeGaragechannel Changed out the spark plug, and tested the ignition coil (which did spark it) so those seem ok. I dont have a way to check compression unfortunately...anything else you'd suggest? Id bought it used, and it ran well for two years before dying suddenly in-use.
@@lookintomyeyes83 you can borrow a compression tester from autozone or another automotive parts store.
I do not see a primer button on mine. I have a earthquake badger 3365 Ran perfectly the last few years, loaned it out , and now it won't start. There was hardly any gas in it. I can drain the fuel , but shouldn't there be a primer button? Also why are there 2 chokes?
on your earthquake it as a different type of engine than the one in this video, and it doesn't not have a bulb. Also, if there are two levers, one is for choke, while the other is for the throttle. I would download the owner's manual for yours and it will give you all the information you need about it.
@@HomeGaragechannel downloaded the manual, yes I guess its the throttle. I drained the gas, put new gas in, but still won't start
on the one you have, you need to remove the Drain bolt, and clear the holes In it, especially the small hole on top of the bolt.
@@HomeGaragechannel I will look again, I have the manual but it has several instructions for different models which makes it hard to understand. Thank You
no problem
Normally wet with Stabil in the fuel mix
thank you
I always run my engine dry at the of the season, a small engine mechanic also advised me to drain the carburetor bowel
good advice!
Great video. I aways run the gas out before storage. 👍👍👍👍
Excellent you're ahead of the game. Thanks for the comment.
@@HomeGaragechannel Thanks alot for these great videos. I really enjoy them alot. You ROCK.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
@@electroddxful thanks!
Thanks, Home Garage. That was easy.
Yes very simple I like simple.
I ran my Husqvarna dry since its only a few months old
That's the best way. Thank you for the comment I appreciate it
@@HomeGaragechannel I hate when my weedeaters won't starr
@@js_1995x you and me both.
@@HomeGaragechannel I have bent so many troybilts out of wack
I ordered a new carb and it won't suck the fuel but I can see bulbs in the fuel tank when I prime it, any ideas???
Do you have the fuel lines swapped at the carb?
Home Garage nope. The one marked with the black thing is the front and rear is the fuel line with the filter at the end. Isn't that right?
@@JB_Photog it sounds correct. Have you looked at the filter? Sometimes it can varnish and not allow any gas to flow to the carb. Pull it out and spray it with some carb cleaner
Home Garage I'll check. It's a brand new filter.
Home Garage so I reversed them from the original configuration and it now works. What will happen if I keep it that way?
I own a similar tiller. I call it Tiller the Hun.
LOL!! nice!
@@HomeGaragechannel ☺️
Purge first then add gas
Thanks
Yes I run my equipment dry
That's a great method. You're doing it right.
always run dry
thank you David Strohm
OK
Thanks for the comment