I scoured the web trying to find this level of detail on how to route the fuel lines. This is by far the best level of detail, best camera work, and easy to understand and well-spoken directions I have found on UA-cam for any type of DIY repair. I also learned the cool trick from this video on how to use scissors to cut the end of the fuel line at a very sharp angle to feed it into the small hole in the plastic fuel tank. Brilliant! I also will be draining the fuel during a week or more of storage and never using Ethanol-laced gas to mix my fuel 40:1 with engine oil. I actually have been using TruFuel for years since it is so readily available. This was a tool I inherited from my Dad who was an avid gardener and I love restoring and maintaining used things of his, then using them myself. I liked and Subscribed based on this great video!
thanks buddy watched your video fixed that exact tiller of my own. I changed all fuel lines and purge bulb, rebuilt carb, cleaned it, put it back together in 45 min runs perfect no adjustment needed thank you. great video
Awesome video sir. Great instructions, filmed great, audios great, and you explained everything in a fast and easy way. You’re out here doing God’s work and I thank you.
I was all iffy when I worked on one of these,. You new exactly how these 31 cc carb and fuel line's run and are put together So from what I understand the diaphragm on the side with the needle is the metering one and the other side is another membrane that is real diaphragm that pumps the fuel. who would of thought. 2 piece's to do the job . for all I know this is standard . Thanks for being a great knowledgeable teacher on the subject .
Good video sir. Off topic, All mowers that I work on with carburetor issues now have the tank drained and cleaned. I have had to backtrack a couple of times for _not_ doing this. Livin' and learnin' - I just mostly do the livin' part. Thanks for the video and all the effort you place into each one.
I used to empty the fuel for storage. The metering diaphragm would dry out and become brittle. Now I fill with non ethanol fuel for storage and have had no problems. Thanks for video.
The only time i Drain the tanks is for longer than a month storage. If i'm going to be using something regularly, i'll leave the gas in the tank. But, i only use Non-Ethanol fuel, and I use a very good 2 cycle oil that has fuel stabilizers in it as well. It makes the gas last a very long time. Since switching to non Ethanol gas, i've not had a fuel system issue in any equipment. Great Video sir!
This is a yard machines cultivator but it's mtd and I've fixed many of these under many different brands mostly bolens and yard machines I always drain the fuel and then run the engine great video keep up the great work
what carb is this? i have the same machine and mine has a factory walbro, but it's acting up and i have had it apart more tiems than i care to count, looking to just replace it with an aftermarket one but i dont know how to make sure it's going to be compatible.
Excellent video. I bought a new tiller 3 years ago. I went to use it again yesterday only to find the engine was no longer starting due to the fuel lines breaking. L I have now replaced these plus fuel and the engine works fine. However the tines are not the spinning when I pull the lever. What could possibly be the problem? Thank you kindly!
Peter Dang said I right. The primer or purge bulb, basically pulls fuel from the tank, thru the carb, and back to the tank to get rid of the air in the system.
I always run the fuel out of all my equipment 2 and 4 cycle, I also drain the fuel out of the Carburettor fuel bowls. Never had a problem with equipment starting in the spring, I also do this procedure on my snowblowers when I store them for the summer.
Apparently identical to Craftsman 316.292620. Used to replace the carb on mine. What I most needed was fuel line routing as mine fell apart before I could take pictures. Thanks.
I tried everything from fuel line replacement I looked at the carburetor but didn’t go any further w that, it starts on choke but makes a light clinking sound but when I shift to #2 it dies and the blades won’t spin,
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Ok, thanks for the reply. Yeah, I already found several versions of this tiller with different company tags and no luck so far. Guess I will take it apart and see if I can retrofit something to replace it. Great video and thanks.
My tiller was given to me. Looks like the same kind. I also had to replace the fuel lines however when it is started, the idling is super high no matter how much i turn that screw to lower idle. What could be the reaaon fir the high idle?
Great video! Question for you, the secondary fuel line going into the fuel tank, the one that doesn’t have the fuel filter on it, how does that hose connect the tank ? Is there a washer of some kind from the inside to keep it tight and sealed ?
Carb cleaner is usually more aggressive and dries out rubber whereas brake cleaner comes in chlorinated and non-chlorinated formulas and it's typically safer to use on rubber components used on drum brakes. both clean metal surfaces well, brake clean is just safer for rubber components
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGEThe link brings up a bowl variety pack not the bowl/housing. I don't have much money and need to get it right the first time I order it lol.. any chance you can provide the part number? That would be much appreciated.
I have the same machine that now need fuel lines...you said you replaces lines with 3/16 lines...is that OD what is the ID? the ones that came from the primer bulb was in 2 pieces connected in the middle with a plastic fitting with 2 barbed ends that looked like 1/8 openings.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Thank you Sir!! I assume the smaller size ID being 1/8th..Great video...I still can't fathom why they put the line from the bulb in 2 pieces with a connector between them.. The link provided for fuel lines provided 3 or 4 sizes with diff OD and ID's. 4FT long each..I will try to get just a length of 3/16 OD with 1/8 ID
Yes I always run the fuel dry at the end of the season, I also remove the spark plug and spray fogging oil in the cylinder and cycle the piston to coat the cylinder
Is ok to use slightly different diameter fuel lines. O'Reilly's doesn't carry bulk hose in my area anymore and it can be quite difficult to get what I need in a pinch
you can measure the existing line or the port it connects to. And if it was me, I would get the variety pack with 3 different sizes, just to cover your bases.
hello again 👋 how's is your tiller holding up if you still have it? i pulled mine out of storage to work on some flower beds and prep some of my yard for new grass seed, and noticed that it was leaking fuel from both the ports on the gas tank. long story short, i didn't like the design of just plugging the return fuel line into the gas tank without some form of seal, so i 3d printed a little "external nipple / barb" for lack of better words, and then JB welded that to the gas tank. also JB welded the little plastic circle to the gas tank as well. so far no leaks. 🤞 curious if you've had any more issues with yours?
I end up leaving most of my stuff full of non-ethanol gas and the 2-cycle stuff with Tru-fuel with no problems. The small tillers here are Mantis brand and beside the fuel system the main problem is lack of lube in the worm tiller drive and stripping the gears out. One is brass and no grease makes a short life. BLESSINGS!
I got the Husqvarna 252rx's clutch screw issue solved i then noticed that the killswitch wires were broken so dad and i fixed the wires by soldering them together, tomorrow i will adjust it's idle screw until the trimmerhead stops and then finally use it 😄
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I've been working on grandma's and grandpa's Jonsered RS44 in the meantime now when the Husqvarna 252RX is fully repaired i can turn my full attention to the Jonsered RS44 what i did whilst wating to get the killswitch fixed with dad and before we got the clutch screw problem solved too i looked over it and checked it's condition it had a lot of grass around the guard which i later cleaned but i got started on it by checking the 2 first things i already knew i hadn't starting with the fuel, it has been sitting for years with fuel in the tank which meant the fuel was very old another thing i noticed was that the fuel cap retainer had come off, luckily it still was in the tank so i put the retainer back on the fuel cap and closed the fuel tank, after that i checked for compression and luckily the engine was fighting back a lot a 20 year old trimmer should have lost compression at that age like the Husqvarna 252RX did but that was not the case with the Jonsered, next i opened up the top cover to check the air filter's condition it was made out of foam but when i tried picking it up for cleaning because it was heavily soaked in fuel it fell apart meaning it needs a new air filter, the engine was built up differently from the Husqvarna 252RX you had the intake and carburetor on the right side, in the middle the engine and to the left, i realized at that point that the Jonsered was built up in the same way and had the same engine parts as the Husqvarna 240R and Husqvarna 245R not only were the parts of the engine the same but they were built up the same with the Jonsered having a few different parts, the most Interesting part of all was the engine design of the Husqvarna 240R and 245R like the Jonsered i did further research ans found out that the crankcase was one whole piece and the parts put together by screws, the design of the 3 made it very easy for the operator to work on the engine if i have to say it right out, for example if one seal was leaking and you need to remove the crankshaft to replace it, you can remove the screws holding the crankshaft and then work on replacing the seal without the need to take the crankcase apart which you have to do on most trimmers nowdays like the Husqvarna 252RX for example because on the 2 piece crankcase design you have a gasket between each half which you then need to replace after replacing the crankshaft or seal, the carburetor on the other hand had quiet an unique design on the Husqvarna 240s and the Jonsered it had the choke lever attached sideways behind the air filter base, the fuel line wad attached behind the carb and at the front i found that the throttle cable was attached 😄
looks like that shaft coupler is dry rotted too. Hey even my internal tank piece was brittle and snapped while I was pulling stuff through that tiny hole. I did run it like that for a bit rhough just to run it (with no filter). I dont recommend that since it ran for about 10-15 minutes than died. Maybe it sucked air, but rather than pull so much to get a blister, I walked away, ordered the right part and will readdress it after the part comes in.
Good video…I try to drain the fuel out of the equipment if I won’t use it for a while. I am using no-ethanol fuel so it doesn’t screw up the fuel system if I leave fuel in equipment like my chainsaws so that the carb diaphragms won’t dry out.
I am able to run my equipment year round doing a variety of different jobs as to avoid winterizing. But even if l didnt need to use a piece of equipment for a season, l would still go and start it every few weeks as to not winterize it. I use 100% gas and the oil l use (echo red armor and amsoil saber) both claim to stabilize the gas so l dont see the need to drain it all out and run it dry for my situation. Two questions for you, Do you use a tool to set the metering arm? Zama and Walbro each make a tool shaped like a Z and W for their respective companies to set the arm level. Your can get knock offs on amazon but the name brand one isn't much more. I have found on some equipment the metering arm level is the only way to meter the fuel flow because the carb has fixed jets. Question 2, have you tried putting canned 2 stroke gas in your equipment and just letting them sit for the winter with the canned gas in it? Steves Small Engine Saloon has done it, just wondering your thoughts on it. Great Video as always!!
first answer, is no, I do apologize but I simply don't worry about it. Is it important, most definitely but here's the thing, just because I use , doesn't mean I want you to get it. I'm a big advocate for the compression tester, and spark checker, because I feel they are basic tool. The arm level is not something everyone needs. Hence why I haven't gotten an ultrasonic cleaner. Yes I've seen canned premix work in an echo trimmer that was stored for over 2 year. took it out put my now mix into it and it fired right up.
When ever I put any motorized thing away for more then 1 month I drain the fuel and run it dry then try making sure the cylinder is at TDC. For more then 6 months I spray fogging oil mostly for my snowblower and mower before putting them in storage. As those are my big ticket equipment pieces for the most part.
I stopped using carb cleaner on those carbs because it attacks the rubber parts, and I had some issues, I only use brake clean now. The brake clean is much kinder to rubber and doesnt cause it to swell. I won't lie, I only drain the fuel out of my 2 stoke machines if I know it's going to sit for a very long time, which is more than six months. I don't have issues with bad fuel in my 2 strokes like my 4 strokes. It might be the oil I use, but it's most likely the fact that the carbs and tanks are not open to the air the same as most 4 strokes.
I find if I drain the fuel from my 2-stroke equipment, the rubber parts in the carb dry out. I keep the gas tank full which also prevents condensation. I use ethenol free fuel with Echo Red Armor oil (also contains a fuel stabilizer), and run my engines up to operating temperature at least once a month, then top off the fuel. This is the only thing I've found to keep from rebuilding the carbs every time I want to use my equipment. YMMV, but you did ask.
I haven't had the problem yet, but it makes sense. The only problem is that most owners manuals suggest draining the tank and running it dry, so that's what I do.
I like these engines (as long as they don't put up too much of a fight when repairing) they have a unique design and it's easy to see how much fuel they have left, they always have very high compression which is nice
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Nice! The one I worked on taught me a lot too, you learn a lot from these including how difficult things can be. Thanks for telling me, I can share the same experience and they are actually pretty good trimmers. I would say really durable engines and the one thing I don't like about them is the fuel lines that is it otherwise they always run. Once you do a few it gets easier, I can tell this one you worked on a couple already.
I run my line trimmer out of fuel. It doesn't worry me that I need to mix fresh fuel when I need to use the trimmer. I'd rather do this, than have to clean the carb out.
well for me it does vary and i do prefer not to but in some cases i really don,t have a choice unless i am not gonna use mine for a while as a good example.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE my pleasure mate and that,s a lovely gem and for me i replaced the fuel lines and fuel filter on that type of fuel tank once and luckily i just got my finger in there for in need of compressing and pulling through the fuel filter while connected to the fuel line etc but that was on a Ryobi Grass Scorpion from here etc.
So are you the same dude as Home Garage? You sound like him, and your format is the same. And yep, I always drain fuel if the machine is going to be stored for more than a month.
yes sir. This channel start off as "JUST" the diagnostic portion and the other channel was the repair. Well people hated that set up, so here I am doing the same thing on both, what are you gonna do.
I intend to drain it, but rarely do. Small engine guys (and girls) are the worst practitioners of following the advice we give others. Or at least I am.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE sorry I meant I leave the gas in there and I use no kind of stable or nothing like that no additive anything I just leave the gas in it and when summertime comes around I'll fire it up and then go from there never had a issue so far
Never drained a drop off fuel 1 have 5 chainsaws a bush trimmer a water pump and an 80 cc zundapp motorcycle I start all of them every now and then and had never any isues except for the zundapp But thats only because that machine is a bitch😂
mine was barely used and the whole motor fell off i used it 2 times first tie for about a half hr the 2nd time about 10 min and the motor fell off and the spring cable went flying i did find it but no reason for it to fall apart 1 set screw holding the motor on
I scoured the web trying to find this level of detail on how to route the fuel lines. This is by far the best level of detail, best camera work, and easy to understand and well-spoken directions I have found on UA-cam for any type of DIY repair. I also learned the cool trick from this video on how to use scissors to cut the end of the fuel line at a very sharp angle to feed it into the small hole in the plastic fuel tank. Brilliant! I also will be draining the fuel during a week or more of storage and never using Ethanol-laced gas to mix my fuel 40:1 with engine oil. I actually have been using TruFuel for years since it is so readily available. This was a tool I inherited from my Dad who was an avid gardener and I love restoring and maintaining used things of his, then using them myself. I liked and Subscribed based on this great video!
thank you very much for the kind words and I appreciate the subscription!
Outstanding! Just the facts with great detail and no fluff - God Bless you!
thank you
thanks buddy watched your video fixed that exact tiller of my own. I changed all fuel lines and purge bulb, rebuilt carb, cleaned it, put it back together in 45 min runs perfect no adjustment needed thank you. great video
no problem James Hill and thank you for your time.
Good show, I preach draining the fuel for storage and it's great to hear others doing the same!
Right on, you can avoid so many issue, just by doing it. Thank you Guys playing with tools
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE No, Thank you! I love seeing someone besides me saying "drain the fuel and save yourself headaches"
Great video running the new lines was very well explained
Thank you very much!
Hey love the videos. Awesome small engine tech and has the answers to problems to lots of small engine repairs, keep up the good work
Glad you like them!
Awesome video sir. Great instructions, filmed great, audios great, and you explained everything in a fast and easy way. You’re out here doing God’s work and I thank you.
thank you I appreciate that
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE i appreciate you. You helped save me $80
Great video and repair. I have to get one of those in my shed🙏👍🙏👍🙏
Yes you do thank you RayFpv.
great job! you were clear in your video and easy to follow. Get straight to the point with no fumble around you help a lots.
thank you !
That is so cool to hear that machine is running like it should be there Young Man 😎👍
thank you Robert Mailhos, I appreciate it.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE you are welcome young man 😎👍
Well I did not before but after watching you that changed. I did it this year to my snow blower.
nice, it should work out for you next you need it
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE yes and I will do the same with my mower and weed eater in the fall.
The video was excellent, providing concise and clear explanations of all the necessary information I needed to know.👍
thank you very much
I was all iffy when I worked on one of these,. You new exactly how these 31 cc carb and fuel line's run and are put together
So from what I understand the diaphragm on the side with the needle is the metering one and the other side is another membrane
that is real diaphragm that pumps the fuel. who would of thought. 2 piece's to do the job . for all I know this is standard . Thanks for being a great knowledgeable teacher on the subject .
it took me a long time to figure it out too, not too many videos used to explain that back in the day.
This was very helpful. Couldn't have done it without his tips!
thank you!
Yes, i drain the fuel. And those fuel lines looked like macaroni, Great video!
Thank you Leo's
I have one of these that needs the exact same repair. Thanks for the video.
thank you Roy Public
I just tore mine down to do the same thing. This was a perfect reference video. 😁
Glad it was helpful!
Good video sir. Off topic, All mowers that I work on with carburetor issues now have the tank drained and cleaned. I have had to backtrack a couple of times for _not_ doing this. Livin' and learnin' - I just mostly do the livin' part. Thanks for the video and all the effort you place into each one.
Great point thank you me toon.
I used to empty the fuel for storage. The metering diaphragm would dry out and become brittle. Now I fill with non ethanol fuel for storage and have had no problems. Thanks for video.
thank you Sam Feldman, I've heard the same from a lot of people.
Thanks for the detailed video. My problem was I ran the new fuel lines incorrectly.
Glad it helped
The only time i Drain the tanks is for longer than a month storage. If i'm going to be using something regularly, i'll leave the gas in the tank. But, i only use Non-Ethanol fuel, and I use a very good 2 cycle oil that has fuel stabilizers in it as well. It makes the gas last a very long time. Since switching to non Ethanol gas, i've not had a fuel system issue in any equipment. Great Video sir!
thank you Jacob Feather.
This is a yard machines cultivator but it's mtd and I've fixed many of these under many different brands mostly bolens and yard machines I always drain the fuel and then run the engine great video keep up the great work
Thanks for the info I appreciate it.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE yes your welcome continue with the great work also just an FYI im 13 years old
EXCELLENT VIDEO, LIKE A PRO
Thank you very much!
Drain and run dry..
Great video 🐓👍
Thanks 👍
this style engine was my first work and it took so long to find a repair manual and video on it about how to run fuel lines and everything
it is really difficult to find information on these.
Another great fix.
Thanks 👍
Love your channel!
Thank you so much!
what carb is this? i have the same machine and mine has a factory walbro, but it's acting up and i have had it apart more tiems than i care to count, looking to just replace it with an aftermarket one but i dont know how to make sure it's going to be compatible.
I'm not sure which one is it. Can you find the tag on it with the model number and serial number? I can find it that way.
Excellent video. I bought a new tiller 3 years ago. I went to use it again yesterday only to find the engine was no longer starting due to the fuel lines breaking. L I have now replaced these plus fuel and the engine works fine. However the tines are not the spinning when I pull the lever. What could possibly be the problem? Thank you kindly!
sure thing, the clutch or the drive shaft might be stuck. Otherwise there's a problem with the gearbox.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Thank you for your reply. I will take a look and try and solve it. 👍
no problem
Does the fuel filter always connect to the primer bulb first and then it goes thru the bulb and into the carb? I might have messed up a connection.
1. Fuel filter goes to carburetor
2. Carburetor goes to primer bulb
3. Primer bulb goes to tank
Peter Dang said I right. The primer or purge bulb, basically pulls fuel from the tank, thru the carb, and back to the tank to get rid of the air in the system.
@@Texpete88 Thanks
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGEThank you, too
no problem
Good work!!
Thanks!
Where do you start out with the initial carb settings for L & H? I just replaced the fuel lines and purge bulb but it’s still not running properly.
I don't know
thank you so much for this. recently got a CMXGVAMKC25C craftsman tiller. exact same setup. 🙏
Glad I could help!
I always run the fuel out of all my equipment 2 and 4 cycle, I also drain the fuel out of the Carburettor fuel bowls. Never had a problem with equipment starting in the spring, I also do this procedure on my snowblowers when I store them for the summer.
nice work!
Apparently identical to Craftsman 316.292620. Used to replace the carb on mine. What I most needed was fuel line routing as mine fell apart before I could take pictures. Thanks.
no problem and good work!
what would you suggest if you get it running but when you trotle it up it dies
not much, just need to adjust the carb and if that doesn't work, replace the metering diaphragm or the carb.
I tried everything from fuel line replacement I looked at the carburetor but didn’t go any further w that, it starts on choke but makes a light clinking sound but when I shift to #2 it dies and the blades won’t spin,
no problem. At this point I would just replace the carb.
Trying to replace the throttle cable on mine. It's stuck on full and needs replacing but every site I go to says this part is no longer available?
yes getting parts for these are tough, you might have to come up with someone else to control the throttle.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Ok, thanks for the reply. Yeah, I already found several versions of this tiller with different company tags and no luck so far. Guess I will take it apart and see if I can retrofit something to replace it. Great video and thanks.
no problem
My tiller was given to me. Looks like the same kind. I also had to replace the fuel lines however when it is started, the idling is super high no matter how much i turn that screw to lower idle. What could be the reaaon fir the high idle?
have you looked to see if one of the fuel lines is making contact with the throttle arm on the carb?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE i put new lines on and connected them fully.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I believe I got them hooked up right.
Great video! Question for you, the secondary fuel line going into the fuel tank, the one that doesn’t have the fuel filter on it, how does that hose connect the tank ? Is there a washer of some kind from the inside to keep it tight and sealed ?
there is nothing extra on the "return line". It's simply relying on the fuel line being tight in the opening of the tank to keep it in place.
I usually drain the fuel up before winter storage
I think it's the best way, but I know others would say differently
I’ve got a nice running tiller but when I press the throttle the tines don’t turn or they turn super slow. What could be the issue?
since I don't know which one you have I'm just going to guess, gearbox or clutch.
thank you
no problem
When I start mine, it immediately high rpm/Rev. Does this mean I have to use the screw and screw it counter ?
it depends on the model of your tiller, but it's worth a shot
I always drain the fuel at the end of the season. That is a great habit to get into.
thank you William Snow.
Is there a difference between brake cleaner and carb cleaner other than the price?
Carb cleaner is usually more aggressive and dries out rubber whereas brake cleaner comes in chlorinated and non-chlorinated formulas and it's typically safer to use on rubber components used on drum brakes. both clean metal surfaces well, brake clean is just safer for rubber components
I'm sure there is, brake cleaner probably doesn't break up the old gasoline , like carb cleaner does.
What is the part number for the purge bulb? and what site do you use to order it from
I do believe I have links to the bulbs is in the description
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGEThe link brings up a bowl variety pack not the bowl/housing. I don't have much money and need to get it right the first time I order it lol.. any chance you can provide the part number? That would be much appreciated.
I guess I can just order whatever looks the closest to what I have, It doesn't necessarily need to fit and clip in, It just needs to work.
I have the same machine that now need fuel lines...you said you replaces lines with 3/16 lines...is that OD what is the ID? the ones that came from the primer bulb was in 2 pieces connected in the middle with a plastic fitting with 2 barbed ends that looked like 1/8 openings.
yes 3/16" is OD, and I never stated the ID on purpose, that's for you to choose. I use the smaller ID but some might choose the larger one .
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Thank you Sir!! I assume the smaller size ID being 1/8th..Great video...I still can't fathom why they put the line from the bulb in 2 pieces with a connector between them.. The link provided for fuel lines provided 3 or 4 sizes with diff OD and ID's. 4FT long each..I will try to get just a length of 3/16 OD with 1/8 ID
Yes I always run the fuel dry at the end of the season, I also remove the spark plug and spray fogging oil in the cylinder and cycle the piston to coat the cylinder
thank you William Odom
Is ok to use slightly different diameter fuel lines. O'Reilly's doesn't carry bulk hose in my area anymore and it can be quite difficult to get what I need in a pinch
sure as long as it seals to the tank.
I always drain all the fuel from all my equipment when I'm finished using them this way it extends the life of your equipment.
you are absolutely right.
How do you know what size fuel lines to use? (I see on amazon there are different sizes).
you can measure the existing line or the port it connects to. And if it was me, I would get the variety pack with 3 different sizes, just to cover your bases.
Good video. Needs tuned while under load. Go churn the compost pile.
That's the plan!
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I did one of these a few years ago. You could probably get $140 for it.
really wow, that's a nice price
TY...................lots of help
no problem
hello again 👋
how's is your tiller holding up if you still have it? i pulled mine out of storage to work on some flower beds and prep some of my yard for new grass seed, and noticed that it was leaking fuel from both the ports on the gas tank. long story short, i didn't like the design of just plugging the return fuel line into the gas tank without some form of seal, so i 3d printed a little "external nipple / barb" for lack of better words, and then JB welded that to the gas tank. also JB welded the little plastic circle to the gas tank as well. so far no leaks. 🤞
curious if you've had any more issues with yours?
thank you ipatch, and this tiller belongs to a friend of mine. I haven't asked them, yet, but next time I see them, I'll ask.
I end up leaving most of my stuff full of non-ethanol gas and the 2-cycle stuff with Tru-fuel with no problems. The small tillers here are Mantis brand and beside the fuel system the main problem is lack of lube in the worm tiller drive and stripping the gears out. One is brass and no grease makes a short life. BLESSINGS!
thanks for the information
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I try hard but guarantee nothing.
I’ve had the tiller gearbox “ seize “ on one of these also. But found a replacement at the flea market.
I got the Husqvarna 252rx's clutch screw issue solved i then noticed that the killswitch wires were broken so dad and i fixed the wires by soldering them together, tomorrow i will adjust it's idle screw until the trimmerhead stops and then finally use it 😄
nice work, almost there.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I've been working on grandma's and grandpa's Jonsered RS44 in the meantime now when the Husqvarna 252RX is fully repaired i can turn my full attention to the Jonsered RS44 what i did whilst wating to get the killswitch fixed with dad and before we got the clutch screw problem solved too i looked over it and checked it's condition it had a lot of grass around the guard which i later cleaned but i got started on it by checking the 2 first things i already knew i hadn't starting with the fuel, it has been sitting for years with fuel in the tank which meant the fuel was very old another thing i noticed was that the fuel cap retainer had come off, luckily it still was in the tank so i put the retainer back on the fuel cap and closed the fuel tank, after that i checked for compression and luckily the engine was fighting back a lot a 20 year old trimmer should have lost compression at that age like the Husqvarna 252RX did but that was not the case with the Jonsered, next i opened up the top cover to check the air filter's condition it was made out of foam but when i tried picking it up for cleaning because it was heavily soaked in fuel it fell apart meaning it needs a new air filter, the engine was built up differently from the Husqvarna 252RX you had the intake and carburetor on the right side, in the middle the engine and to the left, i realized at that point that the Jonsered was built up in the same way and had the same engine parts as the Husqvarna 240R and Husqvarna 245R not only were the parts of the engine the same but they were built up the same with the Jonsered having a few different parts, the most Interesting part of all was the engine design of the Husqvarna 240R and 245R like the Jonsered i did further research ans found out that the crankcase was one whole piece and the parts put together by screws, the design of the 3 made it very easy for the operator to work on the engine if i have to say it right out, for example if one seal was leaking and you need to remove the crankshaft to replace it, you can remove the screws holding the crankshaft and then work on replacing the seal without the need to take the crankcase apart which you have to do on most trimmers nowdays like the Husqvarna 252RX for example because on the 2 piece crankcase design you have a gasket between each half which you then need to replace after replacing the crankshaft or seal, the carburetor on the other hand had quiet an unique design on the Husqvarna 240s and the Jonsered it had the choke lever attached sideways behind the air filter base, the fuel line wad attached behind the carb and at the front i found that the throttle cable was attached 😄
thanks for sharing your experience
Always drain the fuel out of mine then start it till it stops even though I use premixed fuel just want to avoid costly repairs if I can.
you got that right, thank you Daniel Padgett.
looks like that shaft coupler is dry rotted too. Hey even my internal tank piece was brittle and snapped while I was pulling stuff through that tiny hole. I did run it like that for a bit rhough just to run it (with no filter). I dont recommend that since it ran for about 10-15 minutes than died. Maybe it sucked air, but rather than pull so much to get a blister, I walked away, ordered the right part and will readdress it after the part comes in.
hope it works out
Good video…I try to drain the fuel out of the equipment if I won’t use it for a while. I am using no-ethanol fuel so it doesn’t screw up the fuel system if I leave fuel in equipment like my chainsaws so that the carb diaphragms won’t dry out.
Very nice, thank you Michael Chance.
how long are the Fuel Lines
probably about 12-14"
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE ok thanks could i just measure the old line thats on it
Even with 2 cycle I run it out even on the cultivated tiller I have also which is 4 cycle version.
very nice.
I am able to run my equipment year round doing a variety of different jobs as to avoid winterizing. But even if l didnt need to use a piece of equipment for a season, l would still go and start it every few weeks as to not winterize it. I use 100% gas and the oil l use (echo red armor and amsoil saber) both claim to stabilize the gas so l dont see the need to drain it all out and run it dry for my situation. Two questions for you, Do you use a tool to set the metering arm? Zama and Walbro each make a tool shaped like a Z and W for their respective companies to set the arm level. Your can get knock offs on amazon but the name brand one isn't much more. I have found on some equipment the metering arm level is the only way to meter the fuel flow because the carb has fixed jets. Question 2, have you tried putting canned 2 stroke gas in your equipment and just letting them sit for the winter with the canned gas in it? Steves Small Engine Saloon has done it, just wondering your thoughts on it. Great Video as always!!
first answer, is no, I do apologize but I simply don't worry about it. Is it important, most definitely but here's the thing, just because I use , doesn't mean I want you to get it. I'm a big advocate for the compression tester, and spark checker, because I feel they are basic tool. The arm level is not something everyone needs. Hence why I haven't gotten an ultrasonic cleaner. Yes I've seen canned premix work in an echo trimmer that was stored for over 2 year. took it out put my now mix into it and it fired right up.
When ever I put any motorized thing away for more then 1 month I drain the fuel and run it dry then try making sure the cylinder is at TDC. For more then 6 months I spray fogging oil mostly for my snowblower and mower before putting them in storage. As those are my big ticket equipment pieces for the most part.
wow. very thorough, better than me in fact. thank you Iowafox.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE You also don't live in North East Iowa where if you don't you have a high chance of rings sticking or rust starting sadly.
I stopped using carb cleaner on those carbs because it attacks the rubber parts, and I had some issues, I only use brake clean now. The brake clean is much kinder to rubber and doesnt cause it to swell. I won't lie, I only drain the fuel out of my 2 stoke machines if I know it's going to sit for a very long time, which is more than six months. I don't have issues with bad fuel in my 2 strokes like my 4 strokes. It might be the oil I use, but it's most likely the fact that the carbs and tanks are not open to the air the same as most 4 strokes.
not a problem patthesoundguy, and thanks for the comment.
I find if I drain the fuel from my 2-stroke equipment, the rubber parts in the carb dry out. I keep the gas tank full which also prevents condensation. I use ethenol free fuel with Echo Red Armor oil (also contains a fuel stabilizer), and run my engines up to operating temperature at least once a month, then top off the fuel. This is the only thing I've found to keep from rebuilding the carbs every time I want to use my equipment. YMMV, but you did ask.
I haven't had the problem yet, but it makes sense. The only problem is that most owners manuals suggest draining the tank and running it dry, so that's what I do.
Similar to Ryobi Engine
yes, it's the exact same in my book.
I like these engines (as long as they don't put up too much of a fight when repairing) they have a unique design and it's easy to see how much fuel they have left, they always have very high compression which is nice
you know, they are strange, but the power is great.
yes i always drain the fuel before storage
thank you Will's Small Engines,
Looks like the Bolens BL150 & BL100 designer got ahold of that one LOL.
one of the first trimmers I've ever gotten was a bolens and it taught me a lot
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Nice! The one I worked on taught me a lot too, you learn a lot from these including how difficult things can be. Thanks for telling me, I can share the same experience and they are actually pretty good trimmers. I would say really durable engines and the one thing I don't like about them is the fuel lines that is it otherwise they always run. Once you do a few it gets easier, I can tell this one you worked on a couple already.
I think you're right
I run my line trimmer out of fuel. It doesn't worry me that I need to mix fresh fuel when I need to use the trimmer. I'd rather do this, than have to clean the carb out.
you got that right.
well for me it does vary and i do prefer not to but in some cases i really don,t have a choice unless i am not gonna use mine for a while as a good example.
thank you Patrick Stapleton.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE my pleasure mate and that,s a lovely gem and for me i replaced the fuel lines and fuel filter on that type of fuel tank once and luckily i just got my finger in there for in need of compressing and pulling through the fuel filter while connected to the fuel line etc but that was on a Ryobi Grass Scorpion from here etc.
Short term storage no, long time storage yes or run it dry
you got that right.
Never drain fuel never had a problem. With weed trimmers
thank you Steve Harris.
I drain mine@ end of season.
thank you Mike Jones.
What a hassle
big time.
It doesnt want to stay going
what have you tried
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE
For some reason it starts but it won’t keep going when I switch it to 2 or 3
So are you the same dude as Home Garage? You sound like him, and your format is the same. And yep, I always drain fuel if the machine is going to be stored for more than a month.
yes sir. This channel start off as "JUST" the diagnostic portion and the other channel was the repair. Well people hated that set up, so here I am doing the same thing on both, what are you gonna do.
I intend to drain it, but rarely do. Small engine guys (and girls) are the worst practitioners of following the advice we give others. Or at least I am.
I try but I forget too.
First commenter
thank you Etronix
Parts
good choice
Nope I've never drained my fuel out of nothing I've ever owned and never had a problem
you must use equipment frequently
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE sorry I meant I leave the gas in there and I use no kind of stable or nothing like that no additive anything I just leave the gas in it and when summertime comes around I'll fire it up and then go from there never had a issue so far
Nope you just reminded me
glad I could help
Never drained a drop off fuel
1 have 5 chainsaws a bush trimmer a water pump and an 80 cc zundapp motorcycle
I start all of them every now and then and had never any isues except for the zundapp
But thats only because that machine is a bitch😂
thank you for sharing your situation
93 octane ,fuel stabilizer,marvel oil,40/1 mix. Use it a couple times more in the summer,until next year.
thanks
Thanks, but I need no help
no problem
mine was barely used and the whole motor fell off i used it 2 times first tie for about a half hr the 2nd time about 10 min and the motor fell off and the spring cable went flying i did find it but no reason for it to fall apart 1 set screw holding the motor on
wow that's terrible news
😂🤪🫡😎AWSOME LOOKS LIKE I'LL BE ABLE TO GETMY GARDEN IN EXTESIVE WORK GOT TO REPLACE CLUTCH ASSY AND HOUSEN THANKS BRAUGH
no problem