I have had remarkable outcomes with por15 on an engine and engine compartment. The metal prep with marine clean and the etching primer are important, don't skip them. All told, it gets expensive. My son, at 13, painted the engine with silver and black. 15 years later, it still looks good even though the car was demolished at a stop light. He painted the engine assembled on the stand, and I failed to tell him to tape off the oil drain plug. At the first oil change, I couldn't break it loose with my biggest breaker bar. The oil pan was rippling so badly, I feared it would shear. Removed engine to replace oil pan. Tried a torch after I had it on the stand, would not dare to do this in the car. He used the torch while I worked it with the breaker bar. The plug came out eventually. The Por15 didn't bubble, burn, or turn loose. It still shows no effect at all. The patching techniques I have learned on this channel may well save the car, a former multiple trophy car. Also, I have used the Rust-Oleum primer and black on an axle and stabilizer with very good results. Cheap, good durability, and maintainable when accessible. In both coatings, I brush and sand until clean. I don't think Por15 is at its best when asked to cover widespread surface rust. I appreciate this channel and hope I can pass on some help.
I have never used POR15, although I have read several times that it works best on rust. One guy said that if the metal was clean, he would set it outside until it had a layer of rust on it.
POR-15 is good stuff for dealing with rust....I've never thinned or applied it with anything other than a brush. It's already water thin, more than that if you get it on you it will stain your skin like ink. So cleaning the gun dealing with overspray seems like to much of a hassle. I've found applying with a disposable brush is the cleanest simplest way to apply it.....Also once you open the can anything you don't use will be trash in a month or so. The paint will skin over in the can and paint under that skin will have thickened to where it doesn't penetrate the rust anymore. Thinning then doesn't restore the properties it lost.
@@PnwOnTour That's not been my experience, but I was in Florida and the ridiculously high humidity there may be triggering it to kick off once opened...In any case there is reason they sell POR-15 in cases of tiny cans, a lot of people have trouble storing the product once opened.
Well, you said it, it’s fine till it’s opened, they say it cures by moisture not evaporation, if you’re using the seran wrap then is say it’s weather/storage conditions. Just trying to help I was a rep with a friend who sold POR out of a warehouse 17 years ago, The Por Boys lol
POR-15 is a Moisture-Cured Urethane. So, even though it is a 1k product (no separate POR-15 hardener), think of it as 2k with the second komponent being the moisture in the air. I haven't had the problems you describe but I'm in NH, not FL and so have much less humid air. Even so, when using POR-15, I pour what I expect to use into a disposable cup then immediately clean and reseal the can lid. Hope this helps
Thanks for taking the time and treasure to demo this product. I see the comments are active on this one... always good to see others sharing their experience with it. Have a great weekend and stay healthy.
Just started repairing the rust on my 2004 ram, been using por 15 and love how it coats, your videos have been very helpful and I will be uploading some of my own repair attempt videos in the future.
I fixed up a very rusted and pitted bumper in the fall. I used a wire wheel on the rust and scale, then some rust mort (powerful stuff!), a skim coat of body filler, and then a spray can of por15. Came out great and is holding up nicely thru the sand and salt used on the roads up here.
Always wondered about the quality and ease of use when using POR 15. Learned an old trick from a guy that used to restore old MG’s. He used rust oleum epoxy appliance paint in black. You don’t need to use a primer and it hardens fairly well when fully cured. He would spray all frame and chassis parts with it. I’ve used it myself on projects with good results. Thanks for the video!
You're welcome Bluesman. That Delorian guy was on to something very special making everything out of stainless steel. How long would a Ford F150 last if they designed it like that? Forever?
Big fan of master series silver topcoated with their ag111 supposedly salt tested for 14,000 hours compared to most other 500 hours. I used it on the cowl on my bronco so far very solid.
POR 15 is great product, ! I brush on and it really holds off the rust , easy to use, keep it off hands and mask/protect anything you do not want spotted
I really liked the way it clung to the rusty metal. I think it would do excellent on a rusty frame that was wire brushed, cleaned and painted. That's what it is made for and that's where it excels :)
Have you ever tried Rust Bullet? It comes in a sprayable automotive formula in white silver black and clear. Direct to rust like por 15. I'd like to see a review on that.
Hi...great video - Thanks, been using POR15 for a number of years on frames, suspension components, under bodies, etc., very durable if prepped properly. Good example is my daughter's 2000 Audi A4...when I rebuild her suspension system (car had 350000 KM ) I painted all the suspension with POR15 before reassembly. After 6 years OF SW Ontario salty winters they are still like new. Great stuff...I have sprayed it though...just brush and the finish is amazing. Just did an engine block with and it looks great! Have a good day! Mike 🇨🇦 🍁 👍
It coats and covers good but it is not uv stable if I recall. I've used it and others like it with mixed results. It cures with the presence of moisture in the air, much like gorilla glue. For exposed areas I much prefer a good epoxy primer and a light coat of rapor coating color matched. Martin senior brand has their take on it which is uv stable much more durable.
You are correct Paul. Por15 sells a topping coat that seals the por15 and allows top coating with pretty much any thing. If they still sell chassis coat black, it doesn't need the intermediate coat and is uv stable. It may be their best coating.
I'd like to see you do a review of Eastwoods CO. internal frame coat paint I swap out the nozzle for a regular tip and I use it all the time behind A and B pillars and inside quarter panels and were i cant remove the rust completely, the POR15 I find to finicky to application conditions.
What do you mean by finicky - dries too slow, only sticks well to "seasoned or rusted" metal, etc? I check into the Eastwood frame paint - thanks for the suggestion. Have a great weekend Moparnut62 :)
@@LakesideAutobody yeah I have had it fail on me flake off others have had the same thing happen sometimes a bad batch other times contamination on the metal I've used regular etch primer and enamel top coat and left things for years out side with good results much less finicky about application conditions at a better price, also try putting some xylene on rust since it's an oily solvent works very well over rust mixing it in any solvent paint seems to keep rust away like rust creep it is part of the sds of por15 black.
What is your opinion on using it on a 12’x14’ metal garage door that is rusted , please any input will help, it’ll be cheaper than replacing it for sure LOVE LAKESIDE ❤️🏴☠️🎥💯% & especially the introduction music HaHa guitar 🎸
As long as you follow the directions - preparing the door first - I truly think you'd be very happy with the results. I'd brush or roll it on that door too - it will flatten out nicely and you can also paint over it with another color if you want a nice colored door.
I haven't - but thanks for that information. I'm making a list of rust coatings and maybe make a video covering all of them at once. Thanks again and have a good week :)
Did you clean it first with there cleaner? Also did you use there metal prep before spraying? I always follow the instructions to a T and the stuff works well.
I did not use their cleaner but did use Auto Body Master wax and grease remover/ paint prep which cleans very well. Did not use the metal prep either. But the rusty metal was blasted a bit which really helps to get thinks like filler and paint to cling. You're right though - it is best to follow directions. I'll have to do a test spot on a frame piece with and without one day - see how each holds up - Jerry
Hey Jerry, Hope you had a Merry Christmas and a fruitful New Year. Something I 've noticed, I hav'ent SEEN anyone metal prep before priming , is this not done anymore. Thanks Again
With this product, they literally want you to chip off the loose rust, clean it and brush it right over the rusted or seasoned metal. Are you talking about using a rust converter? Have a good weekend my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Hey Jerry , Al here again. No what i was asking about was after a panel is stripped of its paint , (Chemically or sandblasted or ground down) the bare metal is treated with a liquid - (Smells like muratic acid) wiping it on wet then wiping dry before it dries . It leaves the metal a purplish looking , then you put down your base primer or epoxy. Is this process still done , I ask because I havent seen it done in any videos. Thanks Again Al. M
Like he said it drys hard as a rock so if you don't clean your gun it would probably destroy it , but brushed or sprayed it looks the same they call it "auto leveling"
I’m using this on some quarter panel rust (trying to preserve some of the shape by not cutting it all out to make filling/shaping easier) do you know if applying filler directly over it would be an issue? If I try scuffing it a bit it ends up coming off and showing rust again
Filler does stick well to automotive paint and primer. I'm not sure how well it will stick to POR-15. If you not cutting out all the metal check this video out (panel is still good 5 years later) ua-cam.com/video/rPTaeH056ng/v-deo.html Let me know if you try filler over POR-15 and how well it sticks to the POR-15 :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks! It dries pretty smooth like paint so should be ok. How would I know if it’s not? Would it just not stick instantly or overtime?
@@mrsemifixit It will stick instantly and stay if it's going to stick at all. Let is harden and try to chip it off. See this video when I try to chip the filler off the paint - ua-cam.com/video/koMw6-auoIs/v-deo.html
Does anyone else use this and seen a great result over time? I am fixing the sheet-metal on a vehicle and would like to put something on the frame that is already thoroughly rusted but still solid, just to keep it from rusting any further. Is POR15 The way to go or has anyone else seen something that works better over a longer period?
I've been using POR15 for probably 20 years. My friend coated his C10 frame with gloss black and a brush in 2009 he still has the truck the POR15 still shines pretty good. We just gutted the truck freshen it up
@@frankm8533 Good to hear Frank - thanks for that input. This is the first time I used this stuff but it really seemed to "grip" almost soak into the rusty metal parts. Jerry
My brother worked in an automotive paint store that sold POR 15 and the consensus from most (not all) customers is that it didn't perform all that well. Keep in mind prep work is everything when you are applying products like this. We are currently about to paint my 81 GMC truck with Chassis saver. For me it came down to RustBullet or Chassis Saver and I opted for Chassis Saver due to the high cost of the RustBullet. In all honesty, if the prep work is done correctly. I think all 3 products would perform very similar as they all basically composed of the same materials and perform the same functions. Good luck on your project!
Hi Jerry... I recently undercoated a truck bed with POR-15. I brushed it on, not realizing you could spray it. I was wondering about what you said to use to thin it out for use in a spray gun. You said "415 Solvent" (I think). What is it, and where do you get it..??
The instructions say use POR-15 Solvent. An older FAQ on their site said you could use lacquer thinner too. They since removed that. I used POR-15 Solvent but also tried lacquer thinner and it worked well too. Urethane reducer also cuts it but have not tried it with that. Mineral spirits does not work. If the project is super important, I would stick with POR-15 Solvent like the instructions say.
@@LakesideAutobody Also.... Doesn't surprise me that they removed the Lacquer Thinner from their suggestions. I mean how else are they going to promote their product as the only thing that will work..??
@@brucewalters8974 5% or 1 part thinner to 20 parts paint. Use more if you can't spray it or it won't come out of the gun. I used a gravity fed gun with a 1.4mm tip. You don't have to be right on with the thinner just enough to get it to spray :)
Its a great product, but when painting rusty frames you must use there acid wash and degreaser otherwise it has a risk of peeling of in big stripes, great video
Tell us Jerry, how did the gun clean up? What did you use? I've always just brushed it on, afraid that if I sprayed it I would be throwing the gun in the trash. Thanks for the video!
Gun cleaned up just as easy as any other paint. Cleans up real fast with lacquer thinner or reducer. I used a Campbell Hausfeld DH580000AV Gravity Feed Spray Gun 1.4 mm tip but a bigger tip would help for sure - maybe a 1.8mm which is very common in older guns and some never guns like the Sharpe Finex FX3000 hvlp spray gun. You're welcome Icar - have a good week my friend :)
Dont sandblast the metal it sticks best to rust. Just degrease, and take of any loose rust then paint it with the POR-15. That's why its called paint over rust.
I sand blasted just a bit - just to knock off the loose stuff - it literally soaked into that rusty part. Good stuff - real sticky and dries real hard for sure.
Love you channel I've learned a lot and used a lot of your techniques. However I strongly disagree with POR 15, they have had for years adhesion problems with their product even if you prep it properly. I have switched over to Rust Seal by KBS. Far far superior product. I'm in the Northeast and trust me I've used every rust prevention converter sealer magic pixie dust product out there.
Thanks for watching 308 - it really seemed to adhere well and seems to literally soak into the rusty metal. I can see it not sticking to painted surfaces. What didn't you like about it? I'll have to check out the Rust Seal - thanks for the input and have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Yes you too my friend... The problem I ran across and a lot of other people is adhesion. Preparation is key as you know even if you follow their directions explicitly the adhesion just isn't there. I have done all types of preparation using all different types of products and even following their own recommendations for preparation is just doesn't have the adhesion that it should which makes the product useless at that point. I really really hate rust. My rust arsenal consist of: KBS products Ospho Product called Skunk Rust, The inventor and owner's name is Craig. What's nice about the skunk rust is if you've got bare metal or not you spray it on and walk away you don't have to top coat it right away, it was actually designed to use in shipbuilding where it takes months and months and months to do the work and they just spray this stuff on and it just won't rust. You will not be displeased with KBS products at all. Seeing that I've got this thing with rust there isn't a product on this market and I mean there isn't a product on this market that I haven't tried and used. As a matter of fact I'm doing the dog legs the front portion of them on my Crown Victoria Interceptor and I literally ran out of weather the cold and the snow was coming so I got a lot of it cut out so I said hey I'll just get some skunk rust spray it down and walk away that was 6 months ago not an ounce of us to be found. Have a good weekend my friend.
@@Captain1717Q Thanks a lot for that information - I'll check out the Skunk Rust. Been reading about linseed oil too - I guess that was used on aircraft parts or something - creeps around and stays gummy - never tried it though. Thanks again:)
I have had remarkable outcomes with por15 on an engine and engine compartment. The metal prep with marine clean and the etching primer are important, don't skip them. All told, it gets expensive. My son, at 13, painted the engine with silver and black. 15 years later, it still looks good even though the car was demolished at a stop light.
He painted the engine assembled on the stand, and I failed to tell him to tape off the oil drain plug. At the first oil change, I couldn't break it loose with my biggest breaker bar. The oil pan was rippling so badly, I feared it would shear. Removed engine to replace oil pan. Tried a torch after I had it on the stand, would not dare to do this in the car. He used the torch while I worked it with the breaker bar. The plug came out eventually. The Por15 didn't bubble, burn, or turn loose. It still shows no effect at all.
The patching techniques I have learned on this channel may well save the car, a former multiple trophy car.
Also, I have used the Rust-Oleum primer and black on an axle and stabilizer with very good results. Cheap, good durability, and maintainable when accessible.
In both coatings, I brush and sand until clean. I don't think Por15 is at its best when asked to cover widespread surface rust.
I appreciate this channel and hope I can pass on some help.
I have never used POR15, although I have read several times that it works best on rust. One guy said that if the metal was clean, he would set it outside until it had a layer of rust on it.
Thanks for the support and your interesting input. Have a great weekend :)
POR-15 is good stuff for dealing with rust....I've never thinned or applied it with anything other than a brush. It's already water thin, more than that if you get it on you it will stain your skin like ink. So cleaning the gun dealing with overspray seems like to much of a hassle. I've found applying with a disposable brush is the cleanest simplest way to apply it.....Also once you open the can anything you don't use will be trash in a month or so. The paint will skin over in the can and paint under that skin will have thickened to where it doesn't penetrate the rust anymore. Thinning then doesn't restore the properties it lost.
Just needs to be sealed and stored like the instructions state, it lasts a very long time properly stored.
@@PnwOnTour That's not been my experience, but I was in Florida and the ridiculously high humidity there may be triggering it to kick off once opened...In any case there is reason they sell POR-15 in cases of tiny cans, a lot of people have trouble storing the product once opened.
Well, you said it, it’s fine till it’s opened, they say it cures by moisture not evaporation, if you’re using the seran wrap then is say it’s weather/storage conditions. Just trying to help I was a rep with a friend who sold POR out of a warehouse 17 years ago, The Por Boys lol
Interesting...
POR-15 is a Moisture-Cured Urethane. So, even though it is a 1k product (no separate POR-15 hardener), think of it as 2k with the second komponent being the moisture in the air. I haven't had the problems you describe but I'm in NH, not FL and so have much less humid air. Even so, when using POR-15, I pour what I expect to use into a disposable cup then immediately clean and reseal the can lid. Hope this helps
Thanks for taking the time and treasure to demo this product. I see the comments are active on this one... always good to see others sharing their experience with it. Have a great weekend and stay healthy.
Yes it is Ray B - I like it too. Love to hear what works and hasn't worked for people. You have a good weekend too my friend :)
Just started repairing the rust on my 2004 ram, been using por 15 and love how it coats, your videos have been very helpful and I will be uploading some of my own repair attempt videos in the future.
Glad to hear that Tim - have fun working on your truck - let me know how it goes for you and ask ?s if you need :)
Glad to see an alternative to the "gamble" of other protective solutions.
Hi Jerry can you tell me what size gun tip did you use for spraying product, excellent job as usual 👍🏻
I fixed up a very rusted and pitted bumper in the fall. I used a wire wheel on the rust and scale, then some rust mort (powerful stuff!), a skim coat of body filler, and then a spray can of por15. Came out great and is holding up nicely thru the sand and salt used on the roads up here.
Thanks for that information FreeDriver - good to hear it works well if used correctly :)
Always wondered about the quality and ease of use when using POR 15. Learned an old trick from a guy that used to restore old MG’s. He used rust oleum epoxy appliance paint in black. You don’t need to use a primer and it hardens fairly well when fully cured. He would spray all frame and chassis parts with it. I’ve used it myself on projects with good results. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for that information Fireship - I'll look into that. Have a good week :)
Thank you Jerry
I’ve used that stuff on my Camaro, been on the car for about 30 years now still no problems , need to top coat on areas exposed to light will fad out
I've never sprayed it but I've used it with a brush lots. I probably should spray it. Use less material and that stuff is not cheap.
Have a great day
Thanks for the informative video Jerry. Rust never sleeps.
You're welcome Bluesman. That Delorian guy was on to something very special making everything out of stainless steel. How long would a Ford F150 last if they designed it like that? Forever?
Big fan of master series silver topcoated with their ag111 supposedly salt tested for 14,000 hours compared to most other 500 hours. I used it on the cowl on my bronco so far very solid.
POR 15 is great product, ! I brush on and it really holds off the rust , easy to use, keep it off hands and mask/protect anything you do not want spotted
You're right about that! It stays for days :)
👍🏻Thanks for the review on Por15, I always was curious about that paint. The cost seems high for it.
I really liked the way it clung to the rusty metal. I think it would do excellent on a rusty frame that was wire brushed, cleaned and painted. That's what it is made for and that's where it excels :)
I used POR 15 on the frame of my ‘95 Impala SS. Applied it with a brush so it would be neater. Looks great and dries like iron.
Thanks for that info Joeseph - good to know :)
Have you ever tried Rust Bullet?
It comes in a sprayable automotive formula in white silver black and clear. Direct to rust like por 15.
I'd like to see a review on that.
I have not but I'll check it out - thanks for the suggestion my friend - have a good weekend :)
You can use cavity wax too. With a wand in tight area's
Might try the used oil for the salt on the roads.
Please check out this video if you want to stop rust from messing up a nice car/truck - ua-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/v-deo.html
Great video. We will need a follow up down the road. Please. Thanks!
Absolutely - you're welcome. Have a great weekend my friend :)
Another great video showing a great alternative!
Thanks UPK - hope your doing well and catching up with all that work you have :)
@@LakesideAutobody I’m doing good Jerry and working hard to catch up on this work
Hi...great video - Thanks, been using POR15 for a number of years on frames, suspension components, under bodies, etc., very durable if prepped properly. Good example is my daughter's 2000 Audi A4...when I rebuild her suspension system (car had 350000 KM ) I painted all the suspension with POR15 before reassembly. After 6 years OF SW Ontario salty winters they are still like new. Great stuff...I have sprayed it though...just brush and the finish is amazing. Just did an engine block with and it looks great!
Have a good day!
Mike 🇨🇦 🍁 👍
Thanks a lot for your input. It's good to know it holds up that well. Have a good week end Michael :)
I have used this in the past. prepped as called for, and found it only laid on top of the rust and didn’t penetrate it to bond well.
It coats and covers good but it is not uv stable if I recall. I've used it and others like it with mixed results. It cures with the presence of moisture in the air, much like gorilla glue. For exposed areas I much prefer a good epoxy primer and a light coat of rapor coating color matched. Martin senior brand has their take on it which is uv stable much more durable.
You are correct Paul. Por15 sells a topping coat that seals the por15 and allows top coating with pretty much any thing. If they still sell chassis coat black, it doesn't need the intermediate coat and is uv stable. It may be their best coating.
I'd like to see you do a review of Eastwoods CO. internal frame coat paint I swap out the nozzle for a regular tip and I use it all the time behind A and B pillars and inside quarter panels and were i cant remove the rust completely, the POR15 I find to finicky to application conditions.
What do you mean by finicky - dries too slow, only sticks well to "seasoned or rusted" metal, etc? I check into the Eastwood frame paint - thanks for the suggestion. Have a great weekend Moparnut62 :)
@@LakesideAutobody yeah I have had it fail on me flake off others have had the same thing happen sometimes a bad batch other times contamination on the metal I've used regular etch primer and enamel top coat and left things for years out side with good results much less finicky about application conditions at a better price, also try putting some xylene on rust since it's an oily solvent works very well over rust mixing it in any solvent paint seems to keep rust away like rust creep it is part of the sds of por15 black.
@@moparnut6286 Thanks for that - again have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Have a great weekend my friend.
Great video never used por 15 will give it a go stay safe Jerry and thank you for the tip
You're welcome Husky - have a great week and stay safe too :)
Try using sticky chain oil/lube..Rock Oil Groundsman Chainsaw & Bar non fling is good
Thanks 👍😊
What is your opinion on using it on a 12’x14’ metal garage door that is rusted , please any input will help, it’ll be cheaper than replacing it for sure LOVE LAKESIDE ❤️🏴☠️🎥💯% & especially the introduction music HaHa guitar 🎸
As long as you follow the directions - preparing the door first - I truly think you'd be very happy with the results. I'd brush or roll it on that door too - it will flatten out nicely and you can also paint over it with another color if you want a nice colored door.
@@LakesideAutobody ThankYou ❤️👍🏻👌
jerry ever tried chassis saver at all and did you check out the clausen rust defender primer at all .thanks
- nick
I haven't - but thanks for that information. I'm making a list of rust coatings and maybe make a video covering all of them at once. Thanks again and have a good week :)
@@LakesideAutobody check out and have a good one your self also
Did you clean it first with there cleaner? Also did you use there metal prep before spraying? I always follow the instructions to a T and the stuff works well.
I did not use their cleaner but did use Auto Body Master wax and grease remover/ paint prep which cleans very well. Did not use the metal prep either. But the rusty metal was blasted a bit which really helps to get thinks like filler and paint to cling. You're right though - it is best to follow directions. I'll have to do a test spot on a frame piece with and without one day - see how each holds up - Jerry
Hey Jerry,
Hope you had a Merry Christmas and a fruitful New Year.
Something I 've noticed, I hav'ent SEEN anyone metal prep before priming , is this not done anymore.
Thanks Again
With this product, they literally want you to chip off the loose rust, clean it and brush it right over the rusted or seasoned metal. Are you talking about using a rust converter? Have a good weekend my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody
Hey Jerry ,
Al here again. No what i was asking about was after a panel is stripped of its paint ,
(Chemically or sandblasted or ground down)
the bare metal is treated with a liquid -
(Smells like muratic acid) wiping it on wet then wiping dry before it dries . It leaves the metal a purplish looking , then you put down your base primer or epoxy.
Is this process still done , I ask because I havent seen it done in any videos.
Thanks Again
Al. M
I have heard that POR15 will destroy a paint gun. Was the gun hard to clean?
Like he said it drys hard as a rock so if you don't clean your gun it would probably destroy it , but brushed or sprayed it looks the same they call it "auto leveling"
Not at all. Cleans up just like any other paint. Just have to clean it before the stuff hardens - lacquer thinner cleans it up real easily :)
I’m using this on some quarter panel rust (trying to preserve some of the shape by not cutting it all out to make filling/shaping easier) do you know if applying filler directly over it would be an issue? If I try scuffing it a bit it ends up coming off and showing rust again
Filler does stick well to automotive paint and primer. I'm not sure how well it will stick to POR-15. If you not cutting out all the metal check this video out (panel is still good 5 years later) ua-cam.com/video/rPTaeH056ng/v-deo.html Let me know if you try filler over POR-15 and how well it sticks to the POR-15 :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks! It dries pretty smooth like paint so should be ok. How would I know if it’s not? Would it just not stick instantly or overtime?
@@mrsemifixit It will stick instantly and stay if it's going to stick at all. Let is harden and try to chip it off. See this video when I try to chip the filler off the paint - ua-cam.com/video/koMw6-auoIs/v-deo.html
If you apply it to a flat surface like the firewall does it flow out nice and smooth?
I flows out pretty nicely. Like regular paint or rustoleum actually :)
Can you use one rocker panel then put primer, then put on base coat on
Yes 👍😊
Does anyone else use this and seen a great result over time? I am fixing the sheet-metal on a vehicle and would like to put something on the frame that is already thoroughly rusted but still solid, just to keep it from rusting any further. Is POR15 The way to go or has anyone else seen something that works better over a longer period?
I've been using POR15 for probably 20 years. My friend coated his C10 frame with gloss black and a brush in 2009 he still has the truck the POR15 still shines pretty good. We just gutted the truck freshen it up
@@frankm8533 Good to hear Frank - thanks for that input. This is the first time I used this stuff but it really seemed to "grip" almost soak into the rusty metal parts. Jerry
My brother worked in an automotive paint store that sold POR 15 and the consensus from most (not all) customers is that it didn't perform all that well. Keep in mind prep work is everything when you are applying products like this. We are currently about to paint my 81 GMC truck with Chassis saver. For me it came down to RustBullet or Chassis Saver and I opted for Chassis Saver due to the high cost of the RustBullet. In all honesty, if the prep work is done correctly. I think all 3 products would perform very similar as they all basically composed of the same materials and perform the same functions. Good luck on your project!
Hi Jerry... I recently undercoated a truck bed with POR-15. I brushed it on, not realizing you could spray it. I was wondering about what you said to use to thin it out for use in a spray gun. You said "415 Solvent" (I think). What is it, and where do you get it..??
The instructions say use POR-15 Solvent. An older FAQ on their site said you could use lacquer thinner too. They since removed that. I used POR-15 Solvent but also tried lacquer thinner and it worked well too. Urethane reducer also cuts it but have not tried it with that. Mineral spirits does not work. If the project is super important, I would stick with POR-15 Solvent like the instructions say.
@@LakesideAutobody Hi Jerry... Thanks for the reply... I have Lacquer Thinner. What was your mix ratio ??
@@LakesideAutobody Also.... Doesn't surprise me that they removed the Lacquer Thinner from their suggestions. I mean how else are they going to promote their product as the only thing that will work..??
@@brucewalters8974 True - after some time, they said, "Hey! What are we doing here?" We'll sell more of our "special solvent" :)
@@brucewalters8974 5% or 1 part thinner to 20 parts paint. Use more if you can't spray it or it won't come out of the gun. I used a gravity fed gun with a 1.4mm tip. You don't have to be right on with the thinner just enough to get it to spray :)
Its a great product, but when painting rusty frames you must use there acid wash and degreaser otherwise it has a risk of peeling of in big stripes, great video
Thanks for the information SM - have a good weekend :)
Tell us Jerry, how did the gun clean up? What did you use? I've always just brushed it on, afraid that if I sprayed it I would be throwing the gun in the trash. Thanks for the video!
Gun cleaned up just as easy as any other paint. Cleans up real fast with lacquer thinner or reducer. I used a Campbell Hausfeld DH580000AV Gravity Feed Spray Gun 1.4 mm tip but a bigger tip would help for sure - maybe a 1.8mm which is very common in older guns and some never guns like the Sharpe Finex FX3000 hvlp spray gun. You're welcome Icar - have a good week my friend :)
I like por15 and use chassis saver product as well, but brush them on never tried spraying. Did u have issues with overspray? Nice video.
No issues with over spray at all. It sprayed pretty well through a 1.4mm tip. Could have used a bigger tip actually - like a 1.8 or better :)
Dont sandblast the metal it sticks best to rust. Just degrease, and take of any loose rust then paint it with the POR-15. That's why its called paint over rust.
I sand blasted just a bit - just to knock off the loose stuff - it literally soaked into that rusty part. Good stuff - real sticky and dries real hard for sure.
Love you channel I've learned a lot and used a lot of your techniques.
However I strongly disagree with POR 15, they have had for years adhesion problems with their product even if you prep it properly.
I have switched over to Rust Seal by KBS. Far far superior product.
I'm in the Northeast and trust me I've used every rust prevention converter sealer magic pixie dust product out there.
Thanks for watching 308 - it really seemed to adhere well and seems to literally soak into the rusty metal. I can see it not sticking to painted surfaces. What didn't you like about it? I'll have to check out the Rust Seal - thanks for the input and have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Yes you too my friend... The problem I ran across and a lot of other people is adhesion.
Preparation is key as you know even if you follow their directions explicitly the adhesion just isn't there.
I have done all types of preparation using all different types of products and even following their own recommendations for preparation is just doesn't have the adhesion that it should which makes the product useless at that point.
I really really hate rust.
My rust arsenal consist of:
KBS products
Ospho
Product called Skunk Rust,
The inventor and owner's name is Craig. What's nice about the skunk rust is if you've got bare metal or not you spray it on and walk away you don't have to top coat it right away, it was actually designed to use in shipbuilding where it takes months and months and months to do the work and they just spray this stuff on and it just won't rust.
You will not be displeased with KBS products at all.
Seeing that I've got this thing with rust there isn't a product on this market and I mean there isn't a product on this market that I haven't tried and used.
As a matter of fact I'm doing the dog legs the front portion of them on my Crown Victoria Interceptor and I literally ran out of weather the cold and the snow was coming so I got a lot of it cut out so I said hey I'll just get some skunk rust spray it down and walk away that was 6 months ago not an ounce of us to be found.
Have a good weekend my friend.
@@Captain1717Q Thanks a lot for that information - I'll check out the Skunk Rust. Been reading about linseed oil too - I guess that was used on aircraft parts or something - creeps around and stays gummy - never tried it though. Thanks again:)
@@Captain1717Q thanks, I'll look for it. You adhesion issues appear common, but I didn't experience them.
Loooove Por 15. So expensive though. Get what you pay for I guess.
Stop rust is better!