Thank you for the comment, I hope you were able to extract some useful information from the video! Yes, although I didn’t sound it I was immensely pleased with the outcome, again, luck rather than skill I suspect… Always remember to set it to the correct side, I’ve been guilty of spending time setting it true only to find I’ve wasted my time!
When testing along the top of the bar are you sure it's the tail stock being to high or maybe wear in you bed ways allowing the saddle to move up and down? Typically the bed ways have more wear near the head stock so it would appear as if the tail stock is higher if there is more wear on your lathe there. ????
Hmm, I hadn’t considered the saddle / bed could be worn to that extent… a great observation! I suppose it’s entirely possible that it could be, as you say it is the most used area of the machine. The tailstock runs along separate ways, so it could be a combination. Without stripping the lathe and inspecting the bed I’ll not be able to tell. A longer test bar would be useful to check the length of the bed. Unfortunately a full regrind is out of the question… there aren’t many other ways of checking this. Having done some turning recently I am able to achieve accuracy of half a thou along 10 inches so I’m happy it’s somewhere near!
Propably a metric 1:20 taper. The metric taper has different diameters eg ME50 or ME 60 etc... Lots of lathes have these you can find cheap adapter sleeves in some shops but most dont have a nut to remove the taper from the spindle so you have to knock it out.
Good suggestion, although I would be very surprised if a British lathe manufactured around the 40’s had anything metric. Certainly not an impossibly though! Documentation suggested a 1 in 12 taper, but it’s nowhere near that... Hope you enjoyed watching and thank you for leaving a comment, its highly appreciated 👍
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 you'd be surprised. I recently got hold of a Raglan Milling machine and it's all in metric. Have no idea why a British built hobby/student machine from 1958 would be metric but it is 🤔
@JaenEngineering metric machines started to become more popular in the 50’s, raglan, boxford etc started producing them even though machines were predominantly imperial. My lathe specifies metric thread cutting with the use of a 127 tooth gear so it was being phased in even at that era. So yes it could well be a metric taper! I’ll have to measure it and check now…
Nicely done, tapers came out great, probably not requirement for high surface finish, ref not driving a drill, etc. The test bar you used is a tapered mandrel, it's designed with a very small taper to hold sleeves, bushes etc, when final bore is completed, and to turn the OD perfectly concentric Ref tailstock to spindle height, it may be worth checking if the spindle has some droop, or play in the headstock bearings. To test this, use a lever under the chuck and measure vertical movement. Thanks for sharing. Regards John
Thank you for the information John, I hadn’t considered it to be a tapered mandrel, it’s something I’ve had years though never used it until recently. I assumed it was straight, but even with a thou and half taper it’s still the most parallel thing I’ve got!! The internal bore was better than I’m letting on, the external finish certainly could have been better though. A tool post grinder wouldn’t go amiss. Future project maybe? This lathe has roller bearings, but there is slight play in the spindle nose bearing when cold, and it certainly could have dropped. To counter this I could shim the whole headstock, but for a couple of thou I doubt I’ll put myself through the process. Many thanks for the comment, extremely useful information as usual 👍
@theyorkshirefabshop8776 , It should be possible to adjust the spindle bearings to take up excessive play, not sure what bearings you have? Vertical misalignment doesn't have a great effect on turning diameters. TTFN John
Yes it has taper rollers, so slightly increasing the preload (or maybe taking up the slack!) is definitely possible, and something I will look into. Maybe I’ll get a thou or two. At the position where it is possible to machine over the edge, the tailstock quill needs to be well extended, and as shown the height difference is a couple of thou. Trimming the tailstock will negate most of that, though for a fairly rough machine I’m quite happy with the results. Thank you again for the feedback
The Woodhouse and Mitchel Junior is a lovely machine and they last very well. You are getting a fair amount of chatter and I'd suggest using a catchplate to stop your LO nut rattling on your spindle. If you ever need a travelling steady I have a spare...
Yes it was rattling about a bit… I could have put a face plate on but it sticks out a bit past the end of the spindle nose and I would have struggled to get to the required depth with the boring bar. I was already at the limit of tool overhand without having too much vibration. I am a huge fan of this lathe, although this example has lead a very unloved life up until me acquiring it a couple of years ago. Although it was very cheap but is still capable of decent work. Very kind to offer a steady, this came with very little so I will remember where to find one if I needed one in the future. If you have the same lathe, you will certainly be interested in the next video!
Hi, Very good - i need to do something similar. I think your mandrel is intentionally tapered and will be one of a set. Work to be turned between centres is then driven on to the mandrel - as you will know.
Yes I think you are right, someone else made the same observation too. I had assumed it was parallel but I’ve never checked it prior to this. Not even sure where it came from! Nevertheless, even with a thou and a half taper, it’s still the most parallel thing I’ve got with centre holes in it!! Many thanks for leaving a comment, I hope you enjoyed watching 👍
Thank you for commenting! Two reasons, number one being it’s an old plodder and hasn’t lived the nicest life up to the point I acquired it. And number two, because it lives in a cold, uninsulated garage in the uk, the only way to stop it rusting (without heating the building) is to have it caked in oil and grease. This time of year, when temperatures hover just above freezing for most of the day there isn’t a huge problem, but what often happens is the temperature rises quickly by 10 degrees c. As a result, water condenses on everything metal and is so bad I may as well have had a sprinkler running in there. Flash rust happens in a mater of hours and if I’m away I can’t dry anything off. So everything gets a layer of protection to combat rust, which picks up dirt…
If you don't have a dog driver like gyrogearloose1345 mentioned, you could use the faceplate to drive a dog. That wasn't a tapered arbor you were using between centers? They usually have about a thousandths taper from end to end.
Yes that is the plan, L0 driver plates are quite expensive even second hand. And you are correct about the mandrel, it’s something I picked up years ago assuming it was straight but having measured it the first time whilst filming for this video I realised it wasn’t. Still, it’s the straightest and most accurate thing I’ve got that I can put between centres so I’ll live with it for now!! Thank you for leaving a comment, I hope you enjoyed watching 👍
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 My Bradford has the L1 taper. I kinda like it just as well as the D1-6 one my other lathe. I haven't bought anything for the Bradford in fifteen or twenty years, so I wouldn't even know the availability or price of accessories these days. I've always meant to make a dedicated rod to check the taper between my headstock and tailstock on my lathes but have yet to get around to it. I have used the tapered arbor to do so. I just check the difference in one end to the other so I know what I'm dealing with beforehand. Like the videos.
@metalmanipulator7210 yes there are many ways of doing it. Normally I don’t bother trying to align the tailstock because the deflection at the tailstock end means it normally needs moving anyway. Just as easy to do a few practice cuts at depth and see how it measures. Nice big mount the L1, good and rigid although the cam locks are usually a bit easier to use..
Not ideal I know, but I don’t have anything that doesn’t protrude past the end of the spindle nose. As I was already at the limit of tool overhang before major vibration and chatter occurred, I wouldn’t have got the depth. A more rigid tool post and a heftier boring bar is needed I think!
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Uuhh? I was taliking about "lathe drive dog". Good idea to have that in the vid, just to complete the picture for beginners. Cheers
New guy here and I really enjoy your channel, greetings from GA USA. Thanks.
Many thanks for stopping by, and thank you for the positive feedback. Nice to hear comments from international viewers 👍
Fantastic accuracy, on an old manual machine, altogether a good outcome, also good info on setting compound slide, to machine tapers 👍
Thank you for the comment, I hope you were able to extract some useful information from the video! Yes, although I didn’t sound it I was immensely pleased with the outcome, again, luck rather than skill I suspect…
Always remember to set it to the correct side, I’ve been guilty of spending time setting it true only to find I’ve wasted my time!
When testing along the top of the bar are you sure it's the tail stock being to high or maybe wear in you bed ways allowing the saddle to move up and down? Typically the bed ways have more wear near the head stock so it would appear as if the tail stock is higher if there is more wear on your lathe there. ????
Hmm, I hadn’t considered the saddle / bed could be worn to that extent… a great observation!
I suppose it’s entirely possible that it could be, as you say it is the most used area of the machine.
The tailstock runs along separate ways, so it could be a combination. Without stripping the lathe and inspecting the bed I’ll not be able to tell. A longer test bar would be useful to check the length of the bed. Unfortunately a full regrind is out of the question… there aren’t many other ways of checking this.
Having done some turning recently I am able to achieve accuracy of half a thou along 10 inches so I’m happy it’s somewhere near!
Very nice work mister.
Thank you, I hope you enjoyed watching! 👍
Nice job! Regards from a fellow Yorkshireman.
Thanks for stopping in and leaving a comment, I hope you enjoyed watching! Hope you weren’t battered too much by the recent weather 👍
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 I usually take shelter in my garage on such occasions - though the door does rattle a bit. :)
Propably a metric 1:20 taper. The metric taper has different diameters eg ME50 or ME 60 etc... Lots of lathes have these you can find cheap adapter sleeves in some shops but most dont have a nut to remove the taper from the spindle so you have to knock it out.
Good suggestion, although I would be very surprised if a British lathe manufactured around the 40’s had anything metric. Certainly not an impossibly though! Documentation suggested a 1 in 12 taper, but it’s nowhere near that...
Hope you enjoyed watching and thank you for leaving a comment, its highly appreciated 👍
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 you'd be surprised. I recently got hold of a Raglan Milling machine and it's all in metric. Have no idea why a British built hobby/student machine from 1958 would be metric but it is 🤔
@JaenEngineering metric machines started to become more popular in the 50’s, raglan, boxford etc started producing them even though machines were predominantly imperial. My lathe specifies metric thread cutting with the use of a 127 tooth gear so it was being phased in even at that era. So yes it could well be a metric taper! I’ll have to measure it and check now…
Nicely done, tapers came out great, probably not requirement for high surface finish, ref not driving a drill, etc.
The test bar you used is a tapered mandrel, it's designed with a very small taper to hold sleeves, bushes etc, when final bore is completed, and to turn the OD perfectly concentric
Ref tailstock to spindle height, it may be worth checking if the spindle has some droop, or play in the headstock bearings. To test this, use a lever under the chuck and measure vertical movement.
Thanks for sharing.
Regards John
Thank you for the information John, I hadn’t considered it to be a tapered mandrel, it’s something I’ve had years though never used it until recently. I assumed it was straight, but even with a thou and half taper it’s still the most parallel thing I’ve got!!
The internal bore was better than I’m letting on, the external finish certainly could have been better though. A tool post grinder wouldn’t go amiss. Future project maybe?
This lathe has roller bearings, but there is slight play in the spindle nose bearing when cold, and it certainly could have dropped. To counter this I could shim the whole headstock, but for a couple of thou I doubt I’ll put myself through the process.
Many thanks for the comment, extremely useful information as usual 👍
@theyorkshirefabshop8776 , It should be possible to adjust the spindle bearings to take up excessive play, not sure what bearings you have? Vertical misalignment doesn't have a great effect on turning diameters.
TTFN John
Yes it has taper rollers, so slightly increasing the preload (or maybe taking up the slack!) is definitely possible, and something I will look into. Maybe I’ll get a thou or two.
At the position where it is possible to machine over the edge, the tailstock quill needs to be well extended, and as shown the height difference is a couple of thou. Trimming the tailstock will negate most of that, though for a fairly rough machine I’m quite happy with the results.
Thank you again for the feedback
The Woodhouse and Mitchel Junior is a lovely machine and they last very well. You are getting a fair amount of chatter and I'd suggest using a catchplate to stop your LO nut rattling on your spindle. If you ever need a travelling steady I have a spare...
Yes it was rattling about a bit… I could have put a face plate on but it sticks out a bit past the end of the spindle nose and I would have struggled to get to the required depth with the boring bar. I was already at the limit of tool overhand without having too much vibration.
I am a huge fan of this lathe, although this example has lead a very unloved life up until me acquiring it a couple of years ago. Although it was very cheap but is still capable of decent work.
Very kind to offer a steady, this came with very little so I will remember where to find one if I needed one in the future. If you have the same lathe, you will certainly be interested in the next video!
Hi, Very good - i need to do something similar. I think your mandrel is intentionally tapered and will be one of a set. Work to be turned between centres is then driven on to the mandrel - as you will know.
Yes I think you are right, someone else made the same observation too. I had assumed it was parallel but I’ve never checked it prior to this. Not even sure where it came from! Nevertheless, even with a thou and a half taper, it’s still the most parallel thing I’ve got with centre holes in it!! Many thanks for leaving a comment, I hope you enjoyed watching 👍
Nice!
Hope you enjoyed watching and thank you for leaving a comment 👍
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 I did enjoy watching your video and you're welcome for the comment. Here's another comment.
New to the channel why is your lathe so dirty ?
Thank you for commenting! Two reasons, number one being it’s an old plodder and hasn’t lived the nicest life up to the point I acquired it. And number two, because it lives in a cold, uninsulated garage in the uk, the only way to stop it rusting (without heating the building) is to have it caked in oil and grease. This time of year, when temperatures hover just above freezing for most of the day there isn’t a huge problem, but what often happens is the temperature rises quickly by 10 degrees c. As a result, water condenses on everything metal and is so bad I may as well have had a sprinkler running in there. Flash rust happens in a mater of hours and if I’m away I can’t dry anything off. So everything gets a layer of protection to combat rust, which picks up dirt…
If you don't have a dog driver like gyrogearloose1345 mentioned, you could use the faceplate to drive a dog. That wasn't a tapered arbor you were using between centers? They usually have about a thousandths taper from end to end.
Yes that is the plan, L0 driver plates are quite expensive even second hand.
And you are correct about the mandrel, it’s something I picked up years ago assuming it was straight but having measured it the first time whilst filming for this video I realised it wasn’t. Still, it’s the straightest and most accurate thing I’ve got that I can put between centres so I’ll live with it for now!!
Thank you for leaving a comment, I hope you enjoyed watching 👍
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 My Bradford has the L1 taper. I kinda like it just as well as the D1-6 one my other lathe. I haven't bought anything for the Bradford in fifteen or twenty years, so I wouldn't even know the availability or price of accessories these days. I've always meant to make a dedicated rod to check the taper between my headstock and tailstock on my lathes but have yet to get around to it. I have used the tapered arbor to do so. I just check the difference in one end to the other so I know what I'm dealing with beforehand. Like the videos.
@metalmanipulator7210 yes there are many ways of doing it. Normally I don’t bother trying to align the tailstock because the deflection at the tailstock end means it normally needs moving anyway. Just as easy to do a few practice cuts at depth and see how it measures. Nice big mount the L1, good and rigid although the cam locks are usually a bit easier to use..
Where's your Dog, man?
Not ideal I know, but I don’t have anything that doesn’t protrude past the end of the spindle nose. As I was already at the limit of tool overhang before major vibration and chatter occurred, I wouldn’t have got the depth. A more rigid tool post and a heftier boring bar is needed I think!
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Uuhh? I was taliking about "lathe drive dog". Good idea to have that in the vid, just to complete the picture for beginners. Cheers