Brass/bronze is very grabby and sometimes when drilling it, you can make it drill nicer by stoning a small flat on the drill's cutting edges to stop it digging in, but when you counterbored it on the mill, you should have locked the spindle in place and applied the feed by lifting the table, this is more rigid than using the quill downfeed.
As others have mentioned, it sounds like brass or bronze behaves a little like aluminum. When milling aluminum I use industrial alcohol (denatured alcohol) as a coolant to prevent the tools from clogging. If I want an almost mirror finish, I use one flute end mills made for aluminum. There is probably a similar solution to your problem.
One of the simplest ways to reduce chatter is to change spindle speeds so that whatever is flexing doesn’t resonate. Spotfaces and counterbores seem to be particularly susceptible, unfortunately. VFD on spindle drive can be handy for this.
For the chatter in the counter-bore. Perhaps it came from the backlash in the quill hand feed mechanism? Maybe having the quill engaged to the fine-feed handle would have reduced the grabbing of the end mill?
Wouldn't that make the cam much less effective as a cam? You would be taking from infinitely adjustable in size (within a range) to only 6 predetermined sizes.
I recommend milling 6 flats on the outside of the cam. More stability & will show wear less. @Beef4Dinner22 No - the flats would seat against the material and the cam would still leverage the same force. Mighty-Bite uses a cam with such a hex pattern. Do that with your cam. I made my own & can tell you that those flats are helpful. Mighty-Bite uses a symmetric hex body, but cuts the head of the retaining bolt with the cam pattern. You rotate the hex while test-tightening the hex bolt to retain anything.
@@Ideasite the Mightee-Bite cams seem to have the hex as a separate piece, not milled into the cam itself. The cam is internal to the hex, and is still round to allow it to rotate fully giving the adjustability of a round cam.
The problem presented by the tool in the milling machine spindle is due to the bearings being out of adjustment or having a greater tolerance than normal since these are originally preloaded but after many years of work they wear out and when they are doing a strong roughing job the vibration seen in your case occurs. Therefore what you should do is adjust the bearings or if you cannot adjust them then change them according to the machine manual. El problema presentado por la herramienta en el husillo de la fresadora, es debido a que los rodamientos están desajustados o tienen una tolerancia mayor de la normal ya que estos están precargados originalmente pero despues de muchos años de trabajo se desgastan y cuando están haciendo un trabajo de desbaste fuerte se produce la vibración que se ve en el caso tuyo. por lo tanto lo que debe hacer ajustar los rodamientos o si no puede ajustarlos entonces cambiarlos de acuerdo al manual maquina.
I think you were getting chatter like that because you're working with brass, basically. It wants to pull your end mill into it because it's soft. If you slightly engage your quill lock so the brass can't pull the cutter in it usually works. Alternatively, you can use your fine feed. This prevents the quill from being sucked down by the cutter. Just an opinion from my own experience. Roger from Calgary.
Add me to "I would like a kit" & in January, I ~WILL BE~ a Subscriber in Patreon, GREAT WORK, philip, from the Great Pacific NorthWET, Oregon Division, USA (And its RAINING right Now!)
Brass/bronze is very grabby and sometimes when drilling it, you can make it drill nicer by stoning a small flat on the drill's cutting edges to stop it digging in, but when you counterbored it on the mill, you should have locked the spindle in place and applied the feed by lifting the table, this is more rigid than using the quill downfeed.
Ok, great advice. Many thanks.
Gotta brass off your bits.
@@joneseymakes Machinists "brass off" a full set of drill bits. They file the leading edge to 90 deg to prevent grabbing in softer materials.
What a brilliant design! Makes the one I made look rather basic by comparison 😁 Awesome content as always, Mr Jonesey.
That's a great design!
Thanks, much appreciated!
Best. Vise. Stop. Ever.👍
Cheers man!
Anytime you get chatter speed is the first to think of. Chatter is caused by harmonics.
Thanks, I did try different speeds but got the same problem.
New computer systems constantly vary the speeds up and down to stop chatter in machine shops.
The end result is brilliant!
Thanks! Much appreciated.
Just found the channel, thx UA-cam related. Great stuff
Excellent job!
Thanks!
Been hoping for an upload 👍👍
I'd like a kit as well. Love the design.
Great, thanks. I’ll start producing the kits soon.
As others have mentioned, it sounds like brass or bronze behaves a little like aluminum. When milling aluminum I use industrial alcohol (denatured alcohol) as a coolant to prevent the tools from clogging. If I want an almost mirror finish, I use one flute end mills made for aluminum.
There is probably a similar solution to your problem.
Excellent work 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Thanks!
One of the simplest ways to reduce chatter is to change spindle speeds so that whatever is flexing doesn’t resonate. Spotfaces and counterbores seem to be particularly susceptible, unfortunately. VFD on spindle drive can be handy for this.
OK great, thanks but the advice.
I like it. Nice work.
Thanks!
For the chatter in the counter-bore. Perhaps it came from the backlash in the quill hand feed mechanism?
Maybe having the quill engaged to the fine-feed handle would have reduced the grabbing of the end mill?
I definitely want a kit!
Great to hear. I’ll get working on that.
I recommend milling 6 flats on the outside of the cam. More stability & will show wear less.
Wouldn't that make the cam much less effective as a cam? You would be taking from infinitely adjustable in size (within a range) to only 6 predetermined sizes.
I recommend milling 6 flats on the outside of the cam. More stability & will show wear less. @Beef4Dinner22 No - the flats would seat against the material and the cam would still leverage the same force. Mighty-Bite uses a cam with such a hex pattern. Do that with your cam. I made my own & can tell you that those flats are helpful.
Mighty-Bite uses a symmetric hex body, but cuts the head of the retaining bolt with the cam pattern. You rotate the hex while test-tightening the hex bolt to retain anything.
@@Ideasite the Mightee-Bite cams seem to have the hex as a separate piece, not milled into the cam itself. The cam is internal to the hex, and is still round to allow it to rotate fully giving the adjustability of a round cam.
Good one!
Thanks!
I would be interested in the kit.
Great to hear. I’ll get working on that.
The problem presented by the tool in the milling machine spindle is due to the bearings being out of adjustment or having a greater tolerance than normal since these are originally preloaded but after many years of work they wear out and when they are doing a strong roughing job the vibration seen in your case occurs. Therefore what you should do is adjust the bearings or if you cannot adjust them then change them according to the machine manual.
El problema presentado por la herramienta en el husillo de la fresadora, es debido a que los rodamientos están desajustados o tienen una tolerancia mayor de la normal ya que estos están precargados originalmente pero despues de muchos años de trabajo se desgastan y cuando están haciendo un trabajo de desbaste fuerte se produce la vibración que se ve en el caso tuyo. por lo tanto lo que debe hacer ajustar los rodamientos o si no puede ajustarlos entonces cambiarlos de acuerdo al manual maquina.
Thank you, great advice.
I would like a kit !
OK great, I’ll get on to that soon.
Sweet.
Thanks!
Nice work. Whats this polishing stick?
Thanks. The brand name is Cratex, a rubberised abrasive.
How long do they last? @@joneseymakes
I think you were getting chatter like that because you're working with brass, basically. It wants to pull your end mill into it because it's soft.
If you slightly engage your quill lock so the brass can't pull the cutter in it usually works. Alternatively, you can use your fine feed. This prevents the quill from being sucked down by the cutter.
Just an opinion from my own experience.
Roger from Calgary.
Thanks Rodger, good advice.
Slow the spindle speed down to reduce the chatter.
Ok great, thanks.
You need a vice stop to help with that project. It would be invaluable. I designed one with a great cam lock too????
You did? I’ve not seen another with a cam lock. Hope does it compare with the solution I went with?
NOICE
9:00 too much rpm
Thanks!
Chatter due to either wear on spindle bearings or backlash on spindle drive gears. Or to much play on feed gears.
OK thanks, I will check it.
Don’t know why you didn’t machine the two ends clamped in the vice and overhanging the jaw, no need to square up then.
Didn’t think of that at the time!
Add me to "I would like a kit" & in January, I ~WILL BE~ a Subscriber in Patreon,
GREAT WORK,
philip, from the Great Pacific NorthWET, Oregon Division, USA (And its RAINING right Now!)