Відео

It certainly makes a change from welding! It’s a good process for joining items together when you don’t want to, or can’t use a traditional welding method.

A good point, that is why I spoke about maybe moving the position closer to the headstock in the future. I do have the option of removing the gap piece, which will allow me to swing a part with the jaws protruding out of the chuck. If I’m turning something larger, I could also swap the jaws too, but a good observation! Thanks for leaving by a comment, hope you enjoyed the video!

I would think it’s quite possible to do, but you wouldn’t be restricted to an L0 taper, you could make what ever you wanted within reason if you also needed to manufacture the backplates. A cam-lock type might be easier to mount onto your existing spindle nose, as the act of unscrewing the locking collar on L series chucks could also result in unscrewing your adaptor. Good luck if you do decide to attempt the conversion, and thank you for leaving a comment, I hope you enjoyed the video!

Thank you for leaving a comment, much appreciated! Although I am very familiar with the Harrison L5’s (I had a long bed 11” a couple of years ago) the lathe featured is slightly larger albeit from a similar period. This being a Woodhouse and Mitchell 70 Junior (and was sold as a Town Woodhouse also), 7” centre height and 36” between centres. A decent lathe for very little money but certainly showing its age now. This chuck wouldn’t fit on an L5, it’s a squeeze on this one!!

Thank you for leaving a comment, much appreciated hope you enjoyed watching 👍

Thank you for posting a comment, highly appreciated hope you enjoyed watching 👍

Many thanks for leaving a comment John, I’m grateful to hear the positive feedback, hope you enjoyed 👍

Good luck with your project if you get around to it Phil! Many thanks for leaving a comment, this has been waiting to be done for at least a year! I recommend you get some large drills to assist with material removal, 60mm or even 2-1/2” should be adequate for an L0 size, saves all the boring! The largest I had in a MT3 is 1-3/4” so lots of material to come out after drilling… Thread is 4-1/2” x 6tpi, easy peasy on an imperial lathe.

Many thanks for your comment. Yes, I have a much newer gear headed drill which is far quieter than this. It was worse before the rebuild, which was most likely bearing related although proves it isn’t something I’ve done! It has got a light smear of bearing grease, to protect the drive more than anything. I have had some good suggestions from others too, bent shaft being a common theme. I am going to remove the two driven shafts and run the drill with nothing in the case, then add a shaft at a time to pinpoint where the excess noise is coming from. I didn’t remove the pins, so I’m hopeful that they haven’t moved relative to the steel driven part, although the bearings set the concentricity between the gears and shaft so I don’t believe that would be the cause of the noise. I will report back with any findings!!

Good luck with your saw overhaul. Hopefully you will find some good guidance in the video. They are fairly simple things and not hugely difficult to sort. They are a great bit of kit to have in the shop. Your mill sounds very well spec’d, I hope you have more time than I do to use it! Many thanks for leaving a comment

Certainly a valid comment and something I’d not considered. I could use demineralised water which I can get hold of quite easily and would eliminate the chance of this happening but with three spare actuators I can definitely wait for this one to fail and determine how long they last.

Thank you for the comment and feedback! Yes you often expect the older more robust stuff to be a little noisier, although I’ve had some good suggestions from another of potential things I can check. I lived by the premise do it right do it once for many years. Since spending time in the corporate engineering world I’ve discovered if a jobs worth doing, it’s worth doing at least twice… but yes, fit the best every time!

Many thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. The lower motor housing is spigotted to the drill body, and is the lower motor bearing support although I can’t recall how much clearance it has. However I am fairly confident the motor stator isn’t touching anything as I checked for clearance around it. It’s certainly possible it could have moved a little when reassembling the head onto the column if it was knocked. After I had filmed that little bit, I had done a little research into universal motors, but thank you for clarifying that. I am aware these came with a dc motor option, so maybe they utilised the same motor with different wiring arrangements to save on manufacturing costs. A very interesting drill nonetheless!

@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Maybe a gear shaft is bent. Consider someone may have bound up the spindle hard over the years, and one of the gears closer to the spindle may have some runout. Can you run it with half the gear cover removed? Even turn the chuck by hand with half the cover removed to see what is rubbing. Good luck with it. --Doozer

@kooldoozer thank you for the ongoing suggestions! It’s an old drill and for at least 60 years it’s been in the hands of countless other people. Who knows what life it’s lived! Unfortunately it isn’t possible to run with one half of the cover off because the cover also support the bearings. What I could do though is remove the two selector shafts and run the motor with an empty case, then introduce one gear shaft at a time to determine which is the culprit. It’s a two minute job to remove the cover so I’ll certainly try that. Thanks again!

Many thanks for leaving a comment, I hope you enjoyed 👍

A very insightful comment! Maybe they have advanced technologies that are void of screws?? Hopefully something different, I’d be disappointed if it were similar to ours…

Hi Phil, thank you for leaving a comment! Try to keep the reamer stick out length as short as possible otherwise it will go wherever it wants. Also, clocking it in was difficult so don’t rush and go steady. Otherwise you could bore with a carbide boring bar which will give good results. Any decent cutting compound will do, trefolex is another personal favourite but anything that clings on given its high cutting pressure. Otherwise good luck!!

Thanks for the subscription! Yes it’s a versatile machine but it won’t be anywhere near as rigid as your Harrison. I do t think they are even as solid as a mk1 bridgeport, but they’re a big improvement over the hobby mills. I quite fancied a Harrison due to their size but never came across one cheap enough… I’ll have a look 👍

Sorry to hear the sound wasn’t as good as you would expect. Unfortunately my equipment isn’t particularly complex but I am looking to upgrade for future videos so thank you for the feedback ❤️

Really glad to hear it was useful to you! Thank you for leaving a comment. The seals are really easy to do and doesn’t require any strip down of the gearbox. All you need to do is withdraw the quill and they can be accessed the same way as detailed in this video. You should also see my latest posting which addresses the common leak point from the speed change handle. And yes, that oil serves a dual purpose when there is a slight leak!! Just remember to top it up now and again! Although I fear many run without a drop for many years…

@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 I did see the second video about the gear change o ring. A good idea to doulbe it up. My lathe is an ancient toy, it would be a lep of faith to try the same but I might just do it. Would be good to get it oil tight again. 👍

Thank you, appreciate the comment! I never could understand that, those unions are a good drill. Is that the two speed option with the spindle back gear? I’ve always fancied one just because they are great value. From photos of the drill they look like the case splits in two, but I wouldn’t like to suggest that’s how it’s done because I haven’t had my hands on one. Good luck with your refurb! And yes I 100% agree all old equipment should have a very minor oil leak. That way you know when it hasn’t got any left!! And it keeps the rust off… And yes, the modern stuff just doesn’t compare. And in many instances is more expensive!!

@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 It is indeed the two speed. The case is one piece, well two pieces cast together, and finished with filler. Had some WD40 in a thread for the lid, screwed in the screw, and hydrauliced the filler out underneath, it pushed back in. There’s an awkward hidden circlip, accessed from the top panel, where the belt is, it holds the dog clutch gear in place on the shaft.. Need a replacement motor, this one can’t be rewired, and I’m not going to start delving inside windings. 240v 3 phase for a VFD, saves messing with the belt.

@dieselhatz4247 ah fair enough, I hadn’t really looked too closely. The Elliott wasn’t exactly straightforward but it sounds a little more intuitive than the union! They are a nice little compact unit with a great range of speeds. Should serve you well for many years with a bit of a fettle! Keep your eye out for a single phase motor, often the shaft diameters are the same so it’s only a case of swapping it over. Obviously the vfd adds an even greater range of speed! I went down the phase converter route so I didn’t need multiple vfd’s.

Thank you for the comment!! I was looking at the omnimill as a potential, plus either a Harrison or a Victoria but sometimes you’ve just got to get what you can when opportunity presents itself! Yes, universal heads are an acceptable compromise in a home workshop, but obviously they’ll never outperform a proper fixed head machine in terms of material removal and rigidity… I really wanted something with an iso 40 but it’s ok for now. The lathe is a woodhouse Mitchell 70 junior, a decent lump capable of nice work. It’s not in the best of order and would benefit from some tlc but it’s a nice machine to use. Just a happy accident both mill and lathe ended up from the same manufacturer!

Thanks you for the comment! The best option I found is eBay, however they are quite expensive and would recommend you keep your eye out for a cheap complete drill! Otherwise you may have to manufacture one but without a mill and a lathe this would be very difficult… good luck finding a replacement 👍

A great comment, thank you for pointing this out! I understand the dangers associated with capacitors but it’s always good to remind folk 👍

Thank you, hope you enjoyed 👍

There’s always scope to change things with this in the future if need be! I don’t think I’ll ever need to use the hole but it’s always there if I do

Thank you for leaving a comment, hope you enjoyed it! Not many options with this but it’s at least slightly better than it was…

LeBlond lathes plural, as in you’ve got multiple? Fair play if so! I remember seeing a few for sale when I was looking for a lathe. Could never consider one due to their immense size and weight! Would be ideal for stoping a small country floating away if needed! Could you use a dowty seal under the bolt head? You wouldn’t need a nice round hole in that case. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment 👍

@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Yes sir, I have three of them. LOL, they are kinda heavy I suppose. I've never heard of a dowty seal. I will check it out. I was thinking about cutting a groove just under the head of the bolt to accept an o-ring. Do you think that would work? You're welcome for the view and comment!!!

Yes, definitely check out dowty seals, I think they will do exactly what you need them to do. Designed for hydraulic fittings but they come in various sizes. Do a great job but you need fairly flat surfaces on the underside of the bolt head and the area of the casing it bolts to.

Thanks for the recommendation@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 I see McMaster-Carr has them. You are correct, just what I need! I will order some shortly. Thanks again!!!

Yes, I know it as the same. This was far from apprentice marks though, those are usually mistakes but this was certainly deliberate! All sorted now though!

Thanks for the comment 👍

Thank you for the feedback. We’ve all got to find our feet so to speak, and some constructive criticism goes a long way. I’ll take that on board and see if I can make the opening scenes a little more interesting. It’s difficult when there’s a lot more to talk about than there is to actually show, and I can certainly talk! You should see how long some of the intros were before most of it was binned for fear of folk dropping to sleep… Also don’t forget for many creating content is simply a hobby, something to do in between work, life and the rest of it. The vast majority aren’t looking to be the next highly polished 1m sub channel although it would certainly be nice if it happened! But seriously, thanks for the feedback, I appreciate the time you’ve taken to leave a comment 👍

Its to try and piggy back off this old tony

​@@natejones1235doubt it. The guy basically just admitted to doing this as a hobby, not a career, and is probably shy of his face. Stop the hate?

​@natejones1235 if he was piggy backing off this old Tony, he'd be telling dad jokes. He doesn't do that at all, and doesn't focus his camera nearly the same, or use animations. This is a man doing stuff in his garage and filming it, not nearly the same angle.

It’s the internet so to be expected. There aren’t many ways to present while remaining anonymous and I like that I’ve got the option to do so with this delivery style. Yes it’s very similar to others but no matter what delivery style, with the amount of content creators about it’s very difficult not to be doing what’s been done by others. Nice to see you’ve noticed it’s not meant to be a direct copy of TOT, although yes I have been inspired by his channel. I think my subject topics are different enough to not be a copy but he’s done so much it’s hard not to. There is an old saying that the imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Maybe we’ll do a colab in the future?

Totally agree with you, as that is the plan. However this is a demonstration that (in an emergency situation) it is possible to generate something close enough to get you by. With gear alterations it is possible to get even closer, but a 127 tooth gear is the only way to get it right. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!

Agreed, I don’t need to do anything more with it as it’ll be getting used as it should. Maybe if it was going on the mantlepiece it would be a different matter!

Very few metal working drills have holes in the tables because the workpieces are usually held in a vice, so there’s no need to drill below the surface of the table. That’s my take on it anyway!

@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 understood, no idea why that slipped my mind. Maybe because mine has a hole and I use it for the occasional wood work.

That isn’t necessarily right, just my best guess! My Elliott 2gs has a hole in the centre of the table, but it doesn’t have tee slots like the meddings…

Thanks for the comment! Never crossed my mind to be honest, I was looking for a clean look but I like the concept, a bit like a bulls eye! Problem is although it’s central(ish) to the table it might not be central to the quill… I haven’t checked yet, still getting the drill back up and running!

A valid point, but impossible not to have a similar delivery style to another creator in this very congested space. I tried presenting with my feet instead but you wouldn’t believe how difficult it is to weld like that!!

Great! Lots in the pipeline so hopefully you stick around! 👍

Thank you for the comment! Yes I’ve got a few options including filling with various media, but the best (suggested in the comments) using a countersunk fastener in the largest remaining hole to act as an anti rotation and retaining device. I’m going to leave it for now and if it bugs me I’ll do something about it. But no, you’re quite right that table shouldn’t ever see another drill any time soon! Hope you enjoyed 👍

@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Ooh! I didn't even consider that, but it sounds genius! And I did enjoy the video, thank you for sharing your time with us!

Yes, I suppose it could but I’m not planning on having a drill come into contact with the table whilst it’s in my possession… a great suggestion by someone in the comments was to use the remaining hole alongside a countersunk fastener to retain the insert and prevent rotation. I’ll see how it goes, there will be a vice mounted almost permanently so the insert might not see the light of day again! Thanks for leaving a comment 👍

Thank you for leaving a comment! Since posting, and thinking about people’s comments, I’ve thought about putting a bag beneath the table so I can just pop the insert out and sweep all the swarf in! These Meddings definitely didn’t have a hole, but there’s some extra functionality I can now explore thanks to some comments. Thanks again for watching, hope you enjoyed 👍

Thank you for the positive feedback, and leaving a comment! Great to have you on board, thank you for stopping by! 👍

Thank you, glad to hear you found it useful!

Just a quick job for a friend, not 100% sure how well engineered the strengthening plates are but apparently the race cars of the day did this so it must work?? Thanks for leaving a comment and I appreciate the feedback! 👍

Thank you for taking time to leave a comment! Yes it’s an annoyance of mine too, short of lack of care or a moment of insanity there isn’t really an excuse for drilling into tables… it takes two mins to prop a workpiece on parallels or a suitable lump of timber. I’ve had a few great suggestions for dealing with the remaining damage but I’m pretty happy with the condition now so I don’t feel compelled to do any more. Not with a load of other higher priority tasks to do in the meantime. Thanks for sticking with the channel, I hope you continue to enjoy my content! 👍

Thank you for taking time to leave a comment, I appreciate the feedback. Nice to know I’ve got another on board! Stay tuned for more 👍

Thank you for leaving a comment! 👍