Well finally after about 6 or 7 years I have put the time into fixing the LCD on the Virus Indigo. Why did I not do this sooner! Its been such pain to use. I hope you enjoy! :D
I would recommend putting a cloth or rag between your plastic "sploger" thingie and the front panel when prying off those tough knobs to avoid denting or scratching your front panel. Anyway, useful info!
I've 2 LCDs to repair, one on my S1100 (backlight issue) and an other on my Quasimidi Sirius (many faulty dots, bad contacts), but I procrastinate, next week, next month, next year... 100 other things to do! 😉
Yeh my S1100 almost compeletly died in the early 2000's. I sold it around that time (2004) to 'upgrade' to computer based sampling.. What a mistake! The silly things you do in retrospect :D
@@100ThingsIDo To be honest I don't use a lot my S1100 (coupled with an S1100EX, BTW) as I feel it sounds quite clean (16b, great DACs). And for clean samples I've everything in my computers, when I use an outboard sampler I'm looking for a kind of vintage sounds and my EPSm seems to me more useful for this.
Seems to be the good way. I had a korg M1, where I had to replace the battery, near the lcd screen. I have for two years a Dx7, I had for fifteen Euros, for parts because water or else damage, I moved to another country after, so everything had stand unmount, the lcd were working, in that case need to wash and verify all parts for oxydation, that's done, but the metal case, is unpaint in some corners, rusty, so very hard to paint back some white scripture on the top, and the color, wich is not Black, but a deep dark Brown. So soap, teeth brush boxes and glasses to put the screws, no potentiometer on this keyboard fortunately, and contactors were not touched by the water, rust had only taken the left part of top on the metal around the upper plastic you press when setting the sounds. Repairing keyboards needs rare parts, sometimes. I have also the RX7, the slave joint to DX7, working, so I hope one day making great with this trio, as I have also a DX 21, and old dedicated laptops for sysex. Old material needs to learn computers repairing, sometimes doing things that are unusual, because parts are hard to find. So I appreciate the way you tried to fix potentiometers, they can be opened, but mostly, the problem will belong, if you don't modify this bad designed part.
Back when I had my DX-7 I wasn't even sure if it was supposed to have a blackight or not! haha! I just remever it kept getting stuck in sound creation mode and I could not get it back to preset mode without a lot of pressing random keys :P
Had the rack version of that Virus. It needed battery replacement. Since it was so hard to get it out of the rack I decided to ditch the CR2032, found some nicely accessible solder points and connected a AA size 2Ah Lithium battery to it. This now is supposed to last 10 times longer than the 190 mAh CR2032. She'd be fine for maybe 30 years.
@@100ThingsIDo I had the same thought, but I specificly used a VARTA 6117 model (Farnell 1877580) that is around for ages. Some gear that I equipped with a very similar one in 1990 is still going (my first time). I also mounted the battery away from the board since the only thing I did to the board itself was attaching some wires of any length I wanted.
@@ChipGuy Battery's always scare me.. I'm so paranoid about them I have a cable running well away from the Fairlights processors for that battery! Nasty things happen when they get old!
I just tried to fix my Indigo, it had a flickering display and very dim. I assumed the backlight was faulty, so I replaced it the same way you did, but it was a fail for me unfortunately, it's now a blank LED panel. It would be good if you could show or explain in detail where on the Indigo's LED board you soldered the 2 little pins from the new backlight. I found 2 small holes in the board that the pins fit into, but not sure if that's the correct spot.
@@100ThingsIDo totally I found another thread that had the original product number! Saw some guy selling them on eBay marketed towards this synth specifically and wanted $150 for it haha I was like there is no way that part is more than $30
I've got a Virus KC - it was locking up and then it quit booting. Does anyone know of a place in the USA that services these things? It's an awesome synth and I'd like to resurrect it!
Make sure you check the basics first .. If the backup battery goes flat they can act very strange (coin cell inside the synth). After you have a new battery do a a factory reset (check on line or in manual how to do it) and see how that goes. I thought was was dead dead but it was the battery and all the settings turning to grabage :D
I’ve shared your Mirage video at least three times to different groups, with the caveat, the best Mirage video on UA-cam.
Thanks heaps! Its always fun playing with the Mirage even if you have to keep refering back to the functions sheet :D Awesome sounding sampler
I would recommend putting a cloth or rag between your plastic "sploger" thingie and the front panel when prying off those tough knobs to avoid denting or scratching your front panel. Anyway, useful info!
I'll give it a try next time... maybe a thin bit of wood also :D
I've 2 LCDs to repair, one on my S1100 (backlight issue) and an other on my Quasimidi Sirius (many faulty dots, bad contacts), but I procrastinate, next week, next month, next year... 100 other things to do! 😉
Yeh my S1100 almost compeletly died in the early 2000's. I sold it around that time (2004) to 'upgrade' to computer based sampling.. What a mistake! The silly things you do in retrospect :D
@@100ThingsIDo To be honest I don't use a lot my S1100 (coupled with an S1100EX, BTW) as I feel it sounds quite clean (16b, great DACs). And for clean samples I've everything in my computers, when I use an outboard sampler I'm looking for a kind of vintage sounds and my EPSm seems to me more useful for this.
Seems to be the good way. I had a korg M1, where I had to replace the battery, near the lcd screen. I have for two years a Dx7, I had for fifteen Euros, for parts because water or else damage, I moved to another country after, so everything had stand unmount, the lcd were working, in that case need to wash and verify all parts for oxydation, that's done, but the metal case, is unpaint in some corners, rusty, so very hard to paint back some white scripture on the top, and the color, wich is not Black, but a deep dark Brown. So soap, teeth brush boxes and glasses to put the screws, no potentiometer on this keyboard fortunately, and contactors were not touched by the water, rust had only taken the left part of top on the metal around the upper plastic you press when setting the sounds. Repairing keyboards needs rare parts, sometimes. I have also the RX7, the slave joint to DX7, working, so I hope one day making great with this trio, as I have also a DX 21, and old dedicated laptops for sysex. Old material needs to learn computers repairing, sometimes doing things that are unusual, because parts are hard to find. So I appreciate the way you tried to fix potentiometers, they can be opened, but mostly, the problem will belong, if you don't modify this bad designed part.
Back when I had my DX-7 I wasn't even sure if it was supposed to have a blackight or not! haha! I just remever it kept getting stuck in sound creation mode and I could not get it back to preset mode without a lot of pressing random keys :P
Nice crystal parts holder
Only the best @100thingsIdo! Whitefriars as well! .. although its more pressed glass than cut crystal :D
Whoa synth renovations. I love it! Zebra Zebra Zebra Zebra Zebra Zebra.....cable ;-)
CRAZY CRAZY CRAZY! :D
Had the rack version of that Virus. It needed battery replacement. Since it was so hard to get it out of the rack I decided to ditch the CR2032, found some nicely accessible solder points and connected a AA size 2Ah Lithium battery to it. This now is supposed to last 10 times longer than the 190 mAh CR2032. She'd be fine for maybe 30 years.
Yeh they tend to go seriously crazy if the battery goes flat! .... Hopefully those AA's don't eat themselves before the 30 years are up :D Great idea!
@@100ThingsIDo I had the same thought, but I specificly used a VARTA 6117 model (Farnell 1877580) that is around for ages. Some gear that I equipped with a very similar one in 1990 is still going (my first time). I also mounted the battery away from the board since the only thing I did to the board itself was attaching some wires of any length I wanted.
@@ChipGuy Battery's always scare me.. I'm so paranoid about them I have a cable running well away from the Fairlights processors for that battery! Nasty things happen when they get old!
I just tried to fix my Indigo, it had a flickering display and very dim. I assumed the backlight was faulty, so I replaced it the same way you did, but it was a fail for me unfortunately, it's now a blank LED panel. It would be good if you could show or explain in detail where on the Indigo's LED board you soldered the 2 little pins from the new backlight. I found 2 small holes in the board that the pins fit into, but not sure if that's the correct spot.
Drop me an email at 100thingsido at gmail dot com and i'll see what I can do to help.. The indigo LCD board is designed to power the LED backlight. :D
Steve did you ever figure this out?
i can suggest a worse way. i replaced the backlight on my sy99.
took 2 attempts
ha! SY99 is a lot of fun.. I've always been trying to get one
What replacement display did you install?? Do you have a link? I am looking to do the same procedure
Just a generic 16x2 blue LED lit LCD .. sorry It was a part I had laying around! Hope that helps :D
@@100ThingsIDo totally I found another thread that had the original product number! Saw some guy selling them on eBay marketed towards this synth specifically and wanted $150 for it haha I was like there is no way that part is more than $30
Indeed it should be no more than $20USD for one, just make sure its LED based backlight :D@@D.E.T.H.S.O.U.N.D.
I've got a Virus KC - it was locking up and then it quit booting. Does anyone know of a place in the USA that services these things? It's an awesome synth and I'd like to resurrect it!
Make sure you check the basics first .. If the backup battery goes flat they can act very strange (coin cell inside the synth). After you have a new battery do a a factory reset (check on line or in manual how to do it) and see how that goes. I thought was was dead dead but it was the battery and all the settings turning to grabage :D
@@100ThingsIDo Thanks. It's been a few years since I opened it and looked around, but I'll give that a go.
But.... Where did you the replacement? Type, brand....
Believe it or not I took it from something else that was broken! The ones used in the HxC floppy emulator are the same type! :D
I had a 1602 LCD from Aliexpress. You only need the backlit
Hi, doen't work on my Virus Rack XL 🥲
It should! Make sure nothing is shorted out and the soldering is good! :D
@@100ThingsIDo Thx. I take a LCD 1602A, 5V, 16x2 display ?