Nice ride dude! I put the 92v 14 kilowatts Big Bore Mid-Drive kit on my lowrider fat tire beach cruiser, people look at me crazy when I'm pretending to pedal passing them in their cars at 60+ mph. 😅
Hey, cool video. I have been considering using this motor on a build. Quick questions if you dont mind. If it's possible to wreck the bb with the crank arm attached. Are their suggested torque specs in the install documents or videos if they exist? Do you think it is well built. I'm a little on the fence. I could get a BBSHD and I know it will last forever. The company here talks a good talk but is the motor matching the claims? Cool video. Thanks for uploading so much info on the motor. Cheers
See you got no reply. I just bought the bafang 750w 48v and does 36mph when not sat on and 32mph on the flat, that's not hacked, just the c965a with the advanced settings. Will just keep it below 30mph and not cain it. The HD I should imagine is shit hot
To correctly get your chain length. Remove spring or air from shock wind up rebound to max( it helps ) Compressed shock fully to bottom out. Shift derailleur with no chain attached while holding tension on derailleur so it doesn't bind up on cogs to largest cog. Install chain around largest through derailleur around front chainring. Derailleur cogs should not be horizontal to each other but close too. This is the worst possible case of chain tension you bike will ever experience! Shift down to lowest gear Install spring or pump shock up Now with a modern not so long! Long cage derailleur you may have 1 to 2 links to much chain in biggest gear remove or and adjust the b tension if u can spare some adjustment to have a little tension on chain. I remove the one or two chainlinks as i know i will never fully compress shock and be in highest gear at the same time so i have a link or two to play with With this method you will never bind up your drivetrain tearing off your derailleur when your suspension is fully compressed If you run more than one front chainring you may have issues if you are in granny ring and smallest rear cogs but you should only ever be in granny ring on extremely steep terrain going up and the lowest gears( largest rears) Hope that was not too complicated. It's a bit of a pain to do But the other methods smallest rear cog through front chainring through derailleur with a little tension will catch you out under full compression in your lower gears
It has more raw power and good for throttle use. pedal assist is not usable and has no screen, no software. just power and breakage of drivetrain every time :D
Sorry it's been a while and I know longer have it to let you know thr weight. If I remember right that setup was right around 42lbs with the lipo battery I was using
Lots of good, useful info. Thanks 🙏🏻... from your experience, what would you say about using a freewheel with this motor vs a cassette? Cause it seems like a way easier option to replace when the time comes, than changing out a free hub. 🍻
Most modern bikes have a freehub these days. Freewheels are normally found on older bikes, budget level bikes, or bmx bikes. Maybe you are referring to a single speed setup?
tonytypes no. Most definitely a free wheel 😅. Screw old one off, thread new one it... bingo bango. No fucking around hahaha 🤷🏻♂️ seems like a good option to go for 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️?
@@FuttBucker42069 if your bike has a freewheel and you can get a good decent setup by all means go for it. Most cheap freewheel will fail. To replace a cassette on a freehub setup is just as easy. Probably doesn't matter much, but if your planning to run a high powered setup and ride rough it would be better to use good components.
When you said the chain was slipping. It would had nothing to do with the chain. The last few chords must have been worn out. You are supposed to buy them separate and replace them. It's normal wear and tear on bikes LOL It's much cheaper
Cyc need to attach this clip to each sale, undoubtedly the best information Available to any buyer of this product, it’s faultless and will amount to hassle free riding.
Hi Tony, I’m installing my GEN2, just got it. My bb is 83mm, like yours. So no spacer required, correct? When I screw in the non-drive side, it bottoms out prior to getting tight. Then I figured well maybe it needs a spacer, so I put the 3mm spacer in. When I do that, the spindle isn’t long enough (no threads showing). So what’s the answer? I’m thinking no spacer, and maybe reduce the length of the BB so it doesn’t bottom out?
Great video. I am curious about doing this to my mtb. Where do i purchase the cyc unit? Also, do you know much about the paradox kit? I live in Ventura. How close are you to me. Would love to check out your bike
I'm thinking by now the new gen 3 set up should have most of these issues fixed. Not sure what 7-9 speed cassettes are worthy of 2,500 to 3,500 watts 🤔 with a rear hub set up you never worry about any of this .. Just need a couple torque arms to secure it in the drop out.
1500 watts imo is the sweet spot. Bicycle hardware was never meant to handle 3000 watts if power and it will simply wear things out faster. The only thing I dont like a out hub drives is that, they are always wearing out because itis engaged 100% of the time. I only use electric assist up hills most of the time, so.with a mide drive, doing is wearing at all on the motor powertrain when Im peddling on flat or coasting on downhills.
At the time I did had to tune it. When I first got it the app was very buggy and had many issues. I ended up deleting all the default settings by accident due to the app and I had to manually set up the controller again. It was more of a trial and error to see what works best for me. However I already sold the CYC setup and no longer have it.
No rear hub motors that I'm aware of use thru axle with casette/disc brakes. Plus they ruin your handling. A hub motor is more of a motorbike, while this can be used as a regular bicycle with some pedal assist 95% of the time while still being able to go fast when necassary
@@tonytypes nice, want to build a new DH bike and was thinking of using this kit. Here is the bike im on now with a bbs02.. ua-cam.com/video/b05wO3Qg888/v-deo.html
@@Gallardo6669 The display and controller are full of bugs and there is no support. The PAS, speed sensor and brake switches are rubbish, always failing. In my opinion the first roll out of this kit is an unfinished project in beta and not good. The motor is ok though.
4 years old and still the most detailed video i've found so far & i've lookeeeeeeeddddd. thank you sir
Nice ride dude! I put the 92v 14 kilowatts Big Bore Mid-Drive kit on my lowrider fat tire beach cruiser, people look at me crazy when I'm pretending to pedal passing them in their cars at 60+ mph. 😅
Lol dude that's some serious power!
Yah I love what you said, it's pretty amazing when you are pretend pedaling on a road with bad condition on which very impossible to do.
How you you rate the x1 pro vs bbshd?
Hey, cool video. I have been considering using this motor on a build. Quick questions if you dont mind.
If it's possible to wreck the bb with the crank arm attached. Are their suggested torque specs in the install documents or videos if they exist?
Do you think it is well built. I'm a little on the fence. I could get a BBSHD and I know it will last forever. The company here talks a good talk but is the motor matching the claims?
Cool video. Thanks for uploading so much info on the motor.
Cheers
See you got no reply. I just bought the bafang 750w 48v and does 36mph when not sat on and 32mph on the flat, that's not hacked, just the c965a with the advanced settings. Will just keep it below 30mph and not cain it.
The HD I should imagine is shit hot
To correctly get your chain length.
Remove spring or air from shock wind up rebound to max( it helps )
Compressed shock fully to bottom out.
Shift derailleur with no chain attached while holding tension on derailleur so it doesn't bind up on cogs to largest cog.
Install chain around largest through derailleur around front chainring.
Derailleur cogs should not be horizontal to each other but close too.
This is the worst possible case of chain tension you bike will ever experience!
Shift down to lowest gear
Install spring or pump shock up
Now with a modern not so long! Long cage derailleur you may have 1 to 2 links to much chain in biggest gear remove or and adjust the b tension if u can spare some adjustment to have a little tension on chain.
I remove the one or two chainlinks as i know i will never fully compress shock and be in highest gear at the same time so i have a link or two to play with
With this method you will never bind up your drivetrain tearing off your derailleur when your suspension is fully compressed
If you run more than one front chainring you may have issues if you are in granny ring and smallest rear cogs but you should only ever be in granny ring on extremely steep terrain going up and the lowest gears( largest rears)
Hope that was not too complicated.
It's a bit of a pain to do
But the other methods smallest rear cog through front chainring through derailleur with a little tension will catch you out under full compression in your lower gears
This is not it chief damn
Park videos leave you more confused than before 😅
Im glad you took your time to make this video, very informative.
What do you think about the BAC 800 controller option?
What brand/model of bike is that? V.nice indeed...! cheers!!
It's an old 2012 Giant Glory
I can not understand using this motor kit when you can get the bafang BBSHD from Luna and it is so much more of clean install.
It has more raw power and good for throttle use. pedal assist is not usable and has no screen, no software. just power and breakage of drivetrain every time :D
Well made video in super quality
Mines
*_BIKE WIEGHT WITH BATTERY?_*
Sorry it's been a while and I know longer have it to let you know thr weight. If I remember right that setup was right around 42lbs with the lipo battery I was using
Lots of good, useful info. Thanks 🙏🏻... from your experience, what would you say about using a freewheel with this motor vs a cassette? Cause it seems like a way easier option to replace when the time comes, than changing out a free hub. 🍻
Most modern bikes have a freehub these days. Freewheels are normally found on older bikes, budget level bikes, or bmx bikes. Maybe you are referring to a single speed setup?
tonytypes no. Most definitely a free wheel 😅. Screw old one off, thread new one it... bingo bango. No fucking around hahaha 🤷🏻♂️ seems like a good option to go for 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️?
@@FuttBucker42069 if your bike has a freewheel and you can get a good decent setup by all means go for it. Most cheap freewheel will fail. To replace a cassette on a freehub setup is just as easy. Probably doesn't matter much, but if your planning to run a high powered setup and ride rough it would be better to use good components.
When you said the chain was slipping.
It would had nothing to do with the chain.
The last few chords must have been worn out.
You are supposed to buy them separate and replace them.
It's normal wear and tear on bikes LOL
It's much cheaper
Did you use a 104 bcd chain ring?
Is that the sprag clutch (2.0)?
Cyc need to attach this clip to each sale, undoubtedly the best information Available to any buyer of this product, it’s faultless and will amount to hassle free riding.
Hi Tony, I’m installing my GEN2, just got it. My bb is 83mm, like yours. So no spacer required, correct? When I screw in the non-drive side, it bottoms out prior to getting tight. Then I figured well maybe it needs a spacer, so I put the 3mm spacer in. When I do that, the spindle isn’t long enough (no threads showing). So what’s the answer? I’m thinking no spacer, and maybe reduce the length of the BB so it doesn’t bottom out?
with a motor setup like this power it's best to go internal 3 or 8spd hub
Great video. I am curious about doing this to my mtb. Where do i purchase the cyc unit? Also, do you know much about the paradox kit? I live in Ventura. How close are you to me. Would love to check out your bike
How do you decide which derailleurs offer enough tension? I like to use a medium cage size for my 1x9 Dh setup. Any recommendations? thx
I'm thinking by now the new gen 3 set up should have most of these issues fixed. Not sure what 7-9 speed cassettes are worthy of 2,500 to 3,500 watts 🤔 with a rear hub set up you never worry about any of this .. Just need a couple torque arms to secure it in the drop out.
1500 watts imo is the sweet spot. Bicycle hardware was never meant to handle 3000 watts if power and it will simply wear things out faster. The only thing I dont like a out hub drives is that, they are always wearing out because itis engaged 100% of the time. I only use electric assist up hills most of the time, so.with a mide drive, doing is wearing at all on the motor powertrain when Im peddling on flat or coasting on downhills.
How waterproof and dust and mudd proof the system is?
Did you do any tuning on app? I would love to know more. Please share anything you did to get more power.
At the time I did had to tune it. When I first got it the app was very buggy and had many issues. I ended up deleting all the default settings by accident due to the app and I had to manually set up the controller again. It was more of a trial and error to see what works best for me. However I already sold the CYC setup and no longer have it.
with bac 2000 controller 100km/h?
Can we use front derailleur?
Love your honesty on it all
To heck with all that confusion.. 5000w rear hub motor, sabaton controller, 96v battery.!!!
But in the it's still a rear hub motor. Heavy and only good for the road. I'd take a mid drive motor setup any days ;) but that's just me.
No rear hub motors that I'm aware of use thru axle with casette/disc brakes. Plus they ruin your handling. A hub motor is more of a motorbike, while this can be used as a regular bicycle with some pedal assist 95% of the time while still being able to go fast when necassary
The Sram xx1 cassette has separate cogs??
I’ve been considering the CYC , but where to put the batteries???
Depending on the bike if you have space the batteries can fit between the frame or you may have to use a backpack battery setup
@@tonytypes
I have a Giant, Stance.
I wanted the clean look of a frame mounted battery pack.
Big investment, want it to look sharp
What is that bike stand? Where can I get one?
Looks like CXWXC I bought on Amazon.
What is with the bash guard mounts are they a problem
Not on my bike. The mounts do not get in the way. Technically they shouldn't
👍
Where is the controller?
Its located in between the brackets. Blends in with the mount
@@tonytypes nice, want to build a new DH bike and was thinking of using this kit. Here is the bike im on now with a bbs02..
ua-cam.com/video/b05wO3Qg888/v-deo.html
I am from CA as well and want to purchase the motor unit. Is there a chance to meet you? I am from the Palm springs area
Send me a message. I'm in the LA/OC area. I'm actually thinking about selling my setup so you might want to come check it out before I sell it :)
@@tonytypes thx. How do I send you a message? Why do you wanna sell the unit?
@@Gallardo6669 The display and controller are full of bugs and there is no support. The PAS, speed sensor and brake switches are rubbish, always failing. In my opinion the first roll out of this kit is an unfinished project in beta and not good. The motor is ok though.