5 Shopsmith Mark V Drill Press Tips (I think there's Five!)
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- SHOP NOTES: In this video, I go over a few tips for getting the most of your Shopsmith Mark V drill press. There are so many little tips that we'll eventually cover, but these are a few I use every time I drill:
1.) Position your headstock, carriage, and table BEFORE you lift it into position.
2.) Grip the way tube FIRMLY beneath the headstock and above when lifting.
3.) You can reposition the headstock and carriage in the vertical position, but why risk it?
4.) Position the quill feed handle wherever it best fits your needs.
5.) The feed stop (Quill depth stop) can be used in several ways.
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#Shospmith #ShopsmithDrillPress #DrillPress
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After moving my SS lathe from KSA to Lebanon, I missed some parts. I failed to use the drill press function since I forgot to tilt the exsisting table. I thank you for saving my day
Setting the quill stop has always confused me. Thanks for demystifying it for me!!!
Glad to hear it!
I just want you to know how much these tips are appreciated. Having bought a used SS kinda late in life my experiences have always been with your usual shop tools (I.e. table saw etc.). Just learning how to grab the damn thing is priceless! I’d wager most of us have under utilized this tool simply because we’re used to conventional tools. Believe it or not I bought the thing to actually slow down my shop processes! I’ve realized I rush things more with single purpose tools and thus make more mistakes. The time it takes to set the thing up has actually, on rare occasions, slowed me to a point where I realize the next thing I’m trying to do might actually not even work! Ok, maybe not so rare. Anyway thanks for sharing, old newbies like me find this info priceless, but then I repeat myself.
I don’t think I’ve ever heard “slowing down” as a motivating factor is choosing Shopsmith tools, but I can see it. Even so, it does help to prevent wasted time if you get the mechanics of it down. Thanks for watching and even more for commenting. Scott
Ditto. I’ve had to Shopsmith’s over the years and have been looking for some good videos for a long time. Don’t know how I missed you but I’m happy to have found “ my growth rings”.
Robert Hiday Happy to have you in the shop. Scott
Thanks Scott for taking the time to make these videos, much appreciated. I had my Shop Smith in storage, but back to using it again, your videos are a good reminder on how best to use the Shop Smith.
You are welcome and thanks for the encouragement! Scott
Great instructions thanks, just what I needed to hear 😎👍
Glad it helped
Glen here again. I sent a suggestion to Shopsmith a few days ago regarding access to the drill chuck key while in the vertical position and I thought you might like it. My model is the Mark V 500, so this might not work on the current table carriage system. What I did on my machine was to drill a hole on the side of the carriage between the tubular ways so that it is on the top of the carriage when in the drill press position. Then I put the chuck key in that hole so it is handy for switching bits and I don't have to walk over to the other end of the Shopsmith to retrieve it every time I need to use it. Before I return to the default position, I put the key back in its place at the end of the machine. I don't know if the new carriage would accommodate this modification, but it sure works on my 500.
Hey Glen. Yeah, that should work on the 510/520 too. We’d just need to be careful where we drill. I think I would add a magnet under the carriage too, just to it stays put when horizontal, but yeah, that would be convenient. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings In the horizontal position I put the key back in its original hole at the end of the Shopsmith. By the way, I love the cordial tone of your videos as well as the audio and video quality.
Sandy Smeltzer Got ya! Thanks for the compliment. Scott
Great instructional video Scott. As usual!
Thanks, MJI! How was breakfast?
I use the drill press mode quite a bit. I eventually figured out where I want the head stock located for drill press operation and used a permanent marker to mark that location on the way tube so I don’t have to be guessing each time. I did the same for the table carriage although that changes sometimes due to the stock thickness I’m using. And finally, I marked the carriage height adjustment so the drill will always be centered on the opening. I found all of these to be great time savers when setting up for drill press.
I almost suggested that! I’ve known some Shopsmithers who scored a line and added a metal dye to their tubes so they would not wear off. Shopsmith users are clever folks.
I just recently thought of that idea and was wondering if anyone had a reason not to do it. Now I feel like I have permission, awesome.
Thanks for the great video Scott. I really appreciate the two hands lift method. 👍🤔
Glad you found that helpful. It has saved my table from a headstock slam several times! Scott
Another tip for raising or lowering the headstock once it is in the vertical "drill press" position is to put a small piston jack (or small scissor jack) between the headstock and table carriage. You can then use it to lift of lower the headstock in relation to your table. Good for fine adjustments. Another method that has been touted, and one I certainly don't support or suggest, is to use the quill and feed level to literally push the headstock up (or down) through the drill press handle. It works but is tough on the quill feed teeth.
Good tips. I knew a guy once who was in a wheelchair and couldn’t fais the Mark V if the headstock was very high on the tribes, so he used the quill just as you are describing to lift the headstock isn’t poison once the machine was vertical. Where there’s a will there’s a Shopsmith! Thanks for sharing, Scott
Great tips! thank you. Ditto on Hooper57's comments. Perhaps in a future video you could cover overhead vs under table routing - advantages of one over the other, techniques, safe operations, etc
On the Mark V? I have a Shopsmith Router System, which features both a router table and an overhead pin router, plus I have a Shopsmith Joint-Matic, so as you might imagine I don’t need to route on the Mark V. BTW, I loved your work in the “Daddy” video. (Child Psy joke) Scott
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Take care and God Bless.
Great video, I just asked you to do this on your most recent video. This one popped up on the utube feed.
There ya go! Actually, I was mad at myself for not taking a better shot of it, but I’m glad you found this. Scott
Again - well done.
You mentioned horizontal boring. I’ve made floor lamps and use the, (thank god for the Shopsmith) horizontal boring ability. Perhaps some techniques on that Shopsmith function. Although I’ve used it, I’m still rather flummoxed to all the possibilities.
By the way, nice to hear/see your positive nature.
Thanks John, and yes, there are a few tips on horizontal boring that I’ll share in a future video. How big were your lamps and what type of bit did you use? Thanks again for jumping into the conversation. Scott
My Growth Rings
I’m unable to share a photo. A, “regular length”? lamp. I made it in two lengths, spending some serious time on the lathe to get the two as close together as possible and so they wouldn’t appear different.
I used a lengthy 3/8” bit to bore the holes - waxing it repeatedly.
Because of the lamps taper it was, how can I say, “something” to support the sections correctly, provide room for a large dowel as a connector...
The drill bit was not as long as the section so I drilled from both ends of both pieces. Consequently the elevations, angles of both sections had to be considered as well as the correct bit angle of attack.
I’d make another as I have a request but -
The Shopsmith’s ability as a horizontal boring machine is quite nice. Is there a method to setup, control, the angles since the two sections are in circumference at each end and swapping ends adds to the kinda, “confusion”.
Are there appropriate lengthy bits available and a wandering bit isn’t good either.
On a different note -
I’ve the new Shopsmith multi-position drill handle. It’s an improvement over the older loosen the handle version.
John Rice I would love to see the photo, so if you’d like to email it my address is scottmarkwood(at)Gmail.com
Always good tips! Learned a new one, Thank you!!
At 5:40 you let go of the handle and the quill did not fully retract. I know there may have been some residual tension dialed in on yours.
On mine, without any dialed in tension on the lock knob, mine takes quite a bit of effort to draw the quill back in. I I don’t like to force anything and the quill is not as smooth and easy as it was. Could you PLEASE send me a link to a video of yours explaining how to fix that?
Yes, that’s an easy fix. In my case I probably have a burr that needs to be removed, but yes, we can always add more tension. I’ll try to remember to add that process to my next video. Scott
My Growth Rings Thank you !
MRrwmac You are welcome.
I have this part that came with my Mark V (500) that I can't seem to identify. It's h shaped, the bar part is round, while the tail is kinda flat. I'm not sure if it belongs to the shopsmith or not. To me it almost looks like a bench dog with the bar protruding. It's only got 1 leg, not 2 like the mortise hold-down
How about emailing a picture? My email address is ScottMarkwood(at)gmail.com
Scott, Would I damage the tubes or the locking pressure pads (or any other part of my SS Mark V 500) if I left my SS in the vertical drill press mode for a year or so?
I don't believe so. Just don't overtighten the lock.
hi love your video but i am trying to know what is the sleeve that is install on the pipe where slide head stock
It’s a spacer that sets your carriage the proper distance from the headstock so that when you lower the table over a saw blade it will drop right through the center of the a lot. Scott
there is a router collet or chuck for these mark V/7 to use in overheard position to route. the question I have is why can't you locate a pin and make them a overhead pin router? I am also aware that they had overhead router attachment accessory that went on the 2 tubes. but why not use the headstock itself with a pin in the table? what am I missing in this? thank you for any help in explain this to me. P.S. I don't speak Troll B)
Actually you can. Back in the 80's the Taiwanese clone of the Shopsmith Mark V model 500 called TotalShop had a pin router table insert available. With the PowerPro headstock you could do some pin routing, but the standard Mark V headstock without the electronic variable speed can't get anywhere close to proper routing speeds. It's hard to bet the 20,000+ RPMs that an actual router can achieve, but the 10,000 RPMs a PowerPro can produce can work as ling as you don't hog off too much in a pass. Scott
Have trouble getting my drill press at 90 degrees!
You’ve mentioned this before and when I asked you to explain what you mean I didn’t get a reply. Please tell me more about what you mean.
Try a space heater or a blowtorch...
(Sorry, I know that was a smart aleck reply, but I couldn't resist 😉)....
@@MyGrowthRings I am trying to figure out the same thing. When I bring the press to vertical, it will not reach a full 90 degrees. It stops a little short, so it isn't completely vertical. Call it 85 degrees. Almost like there is sawdust or something in blocking where the casting sits. So, if I'm trying to drill vertical, I have to make a best guess on positioning the table, or material so that the drill bit enters square. Thoughts?
@@gregjones9224 Is your machine a model 500 or 510/20? There are adjustable stop bolts under the table that can be adjusted to allow the table to tilt back further. Or is that not it? Scott
@@MyGrowthRingsModel 510. But, after looking at several comment threads last night, I took a close look at the unit today. I believe my problem was the lower tubes were not installed in the proper position. When I re-adjusted them, it took the machine to 88 degrees. Much closer than it was. I think with a little more tweeking, I will get it to 90. When I first looked at the tubes and the tilt base, they were noticably not square to each other. This first round of tweeking also made the unit sit firmly on the ground when I raised the castors, which it did not before. I think this was the problem and Larry Jacobs should take a look at this as well. Thanks for the reply.
Some of these videos are “boring”…
You got that right!