1996 EZGO TXT, 36 Volt Electric - Replace Forward/Reverse Switch
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2017
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Kevin's Golf Carts cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications or improper use of this information. Kevin's Golf Carts assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Kevin's Golf Carts recommends safe practices when working with all tools, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Kevin's Golf Carts. If you are uncomfortable with replicating the actions used in this video, seek the service of a qualified professional. You have been warned. - Авто та транспорт
Thank you for the video. I have a golf cart that is starting to give me some problems. Your video is giving me much more familiarity with everything.
Great videos, Kevin...really appreciate all the thorough content.
I am digging your video's.. keep up the good work.
Thanks, this was a very helpful step by step video. Exactly what I needed.
Glad it helped!
Great videos Kevin
Very concise. Helpful. Thanks
Great job Kevin!
Looking forward to more videos, Kevin
Kevin, appreciate your videos. I have a 1994 ergo medalist golf cart that has new batteries in, the voltage reads 38. I can drive the cart five minutes and it quits. Now I can only drive it 200 yds before it quits. I was able to get the cart back to the garage in reverse but that is not always the case. The solenoid test out ok. Can you give me some insight. Btw the motor is not getting over heated.
Kevin great video man! Very useful i actually have a 08 ezgo txt 36v I have the same battery’s as the ones in the video.
Hoping u can help me with mine! All my battery’s are new and are in great working order but after I get a full charge and we go riding I can only drive it for about 10 min then it’s like it is dead so I’m wondering what it could be? I’m lost and would love your expertise in this! Please!
Hey man, I had the same symptoms and then I mistakenly crossed the two smaller wires on the solenoid, now the solenoid does not click..... from what I understand I may have blown the microswitch? Could you please help?
Thank you for the video.
Great videos. I've watched a number of them now and learning lots. Thanks. I experienced occasional power loss problems with my 2007 EZGO 36v. The Repair shop replaced the solenoid, F/R switch and the PDS controller. The problem has got much worse with power loss now occurring every couple of minutes. The shop wouldn't take my cart back and suggested I take it elsewhere. Watching your related videos, I didn't see anything else that might explain the repeated power loss.
Wow! "Take it elsewhere"? That sounds like they don't know what they are doing! I'm willing to bet you have a bad battery cable, failed cell in a battery or the electric motor is starting to fail. I have had a few occasions where a battery cable is beginning to fail internally and causes loss of power. If this is something that is happening more frequently, then I'm willing to bet a battery or batteries are starting to fail. You will need to check the water level in each cell of each battery. If any cells are below the top of the plates, you may have a sulfated cell. Get yourself a battery hydrometer, either at a local auto parts store or Amazon. You will need to check each cell for State of charge. The best way to do this is to top off the cells with distilled water and charge the battery pack overnight, let it rest for 12 hours or more and check each cell with the hydrometer. If any cell shows less than the other cells by more than .6, then the cell is dead or dying. Typically this indicates that cell is shorting out. The only fix is to replace that battery. If more than one battery is showing a weak cell or the pack is more than 6 years old, I would just replace the entire pack.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts Thanks so much for your response and suggestions. The added challenge I have is that I'm in BC Canada and the cart is at our winter property in Arizona. The property is currently rented out and I won't be back there until April. I need to decide whether to wait until I return in April or find a reputable Repair Facility to take a look at it now. I will let you know the final outcome and problem fix. Thanks again
Would this be same if it only went in reverse and not forward?
I have the same get up but on the back of the forward reverse switch on the black boxes you plugged the blue orange and red wire too, I have no wires to plug into that. What am I missing?
Wow great vid I need to do the same thing
I am rebuilding a 2000 EZGO TXT 36V cart. Curious on the cables connections from Motor(A1A2S1S2) to which terminal on the FR switch (12’3’6’9’oclock) terminals?
How u know which. Wire hooks to on forward band refers swich
Good video. What brand of battery are you using. I need to replace all of mine. Thanks
We exclusively use Crown batteries for electrics and are slowly moving to Crown for gas carts.
90s model ez-go 36 volt golf cart, has new batteries, cables are good and wired correctly: drives for about half hour then just slowly slows down and then stops like the batteries are dead. Thoughts?
I would check your batteries. Start with a full charge, let it sit for 12-24 hours and do a SG (specific gravity) test with a hydrometer. You may have a dead or dying cell. If that checks out, get a multi-meter and check your battery cables. Test each cable with the Ohms setting on your meter. If anything is less than .1 ohm, replace the cable. If this is repeatable throughout the charge/discharge cycles, then its an issue with the batteries or cables.
THANK YOU KEVIN I WILL TRY THAT. IT'S ON IT'S SECOND SET OF BATTERIES IN LESS THAN A YEAR. EVEN REPLACED CHARGER
Where do you order your parts from? Just got a used Yamaha from my cousin and it's not moving either. Thanks for the videos!!
I'm a Red Hawk and Nivel Parts dealer so I order from them.
Replaced my f&r switch with a new heavy duty. When I put it in forward the reverse buzzer goes off. Any idea why?
Did you ever figure this out?
Nice vid, what was the blue wire and orange wire for? Trying to put mine back together? Also would you be able to tell me what large wires go to the switch. Using the clock method top being 12 ,3,6 and 9? Basically A1 A2 S2 S1? Wiring diagrams are no help? Thanks
Great questions, snakeguy! When connecting, he just says, "this one, that one, that one", etc. Would be nice to know which cables are being connected to which stud mount. Did you ever figure it out?
@@thomasvee329 I just decided to do away with the forward reverse switch and have my cart guy upgrade mine to the dashboard switch and do away with the forward reverse switch. Cost $800 but works so much better.
I just replaced my switch on a 95 txt , it's so stiff switching from f to r, is there a way to make it easier ?
I have the same issue. Can't figure it out.
Try WD40 then a dry graphite spray lube. Worked well for me and protects corrosion
2006 Ezgo txt 36v can you convert shift lever to a button switch?
Technically, you can. If you had a contactor style switching system, I suppose you could. You cannot just use a regular switch since full battery current runs through this mechanical switch. The controller in these carts doesn't know which direction the cart is moving. They only regulate electricity to the motor. The carts with the double rocker switch on the dash are electrically switched between forward, neutral, reverse in the controller.
I'm currently working on a 95 club car. That will go by itself with the key off if not in neutral. The fed/rev switch was shorting out on it's self and getting hot and smoking. Replaced it and the solenoid and it worked fine for about 4 weeks key worked as it should. All of a sudden it's doing it again with the fwd/rev switch. What could be the problem? Got a new one on the way again but is there another problem that I can see?
You have a short somewhere in the wiring. I'm thinking somewhere in the vglide system there is a continuous path created due to a bent or out of adjustment accelerator linkage or the wiper in the vglide is sticking. You need to take all of the batteries out and inspect all of the wiring and look for a short. Its possible something is not connected correctly and keeping the solenoid engaged even with the key off. If the f/r switch is getting hot, it sounds like its trying to move with the parking brake on and overheating the switch contacts.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts thank you for getting back to me. I'm going to take it apart today and get it jacked up. I will probably be back with another question
@@Kevinsgolfcarts is there any way to get in contact to talk over the phone? I'm clueless at this point. Checked all the wires can't find a short everything seems to be wired correctly. Put in another new fwd/rev switch. Move it to fwd or rev it starts arcing and trying to take off again and the keys not even in the cart
its limit switch in v shape acelerator its bent or no good
What big wire goes where. S1,A1,S2 &A2. 3,6,9 &12?
just got an old ezgo how do i make sure i dont get shocked when replacing batteries
As long as your hands are dry, you will be fine. I advise wearing rubber or nitrile gloves to protect your skin from battery acid.
Because you asked about a safety issue, I'll suggest a couple of more ideas. If you're interested in long-term safety, consider dedicating a few extra tools just for electrical work and then wrap electrical tape around all parts of the tool that isn't actually doing the work. You can do this with a ratchet, extensions, screwdrivers and wrenches. This reduces the chances of accidentally creating a dead short between the positive and negative sides of a battery. When working around the batteries for any length of time, I place a heavy towel over the batteries to cover the terminals. I also try to never place metal objects or tools on top of the batteries to avoid arcing. When I have made this mistake in my earlier life, I was quite impressed the way the metal melted so quickly!
On mine I’ve replaced all the batteries and the solenoid it’s just clicking no movement could the forward reverse switch be it?
It will depend on year, make and model. You will need to test using a multimeter.
Is it possible to replace a rotary forward reverse with a push button switch? It seems so much easier to use a push button.
I'm sure it is. These switches change the polarity of the electric motor. They are capable of switching 300+ DC amps. If you can find a push button switch capable of this, then it would be possible.
how do i figure out big wire goes where i did not mark them lol
Your fucked! Lol,jk.
Look it up in the manual
That's what I need to know
Do you work on club car ds electric
Yes
Surprised it wasn’t the reed switch
I have a 04ezgo
Is there any way you can show how the little wires are hooked to the controller, witch color goes where. Thanks ten million times. Know vidio ever shows it .mine caught on fire so I have know idea. Any help is a god send thanks jim
Buy a real crimper
I did. Thanks for the suggestion.
No lite terrible video
I've replaced the F/R switch twice in my 96 TXT, What could be causing it to heat up and melt?
You have a bad connection/cable somewhere.
Do you have a part number for the forward reverse switch? I have a 96, same thing.