I ended up with a 1.6 ton AGT QK16R. It has the same quirks as the rest of the Chinese excavators but my biggest gripe is there isn’t a counter weight on it. It was also supposed to have a Briggs and Stratton engine but it is obviously a Chinese clone. A guy a couple of hours away from me bought it new and changed all the fluids and put a few upgrades on it and then put it up for sale. Once I got it home and ran it for less than an hour it flooded and shut off. I cleaned the plug and put it back in and it ran for a few minutes and flooded again. I pulled the carburetor and after a little investigating I noticed that the fuel bowl was turned towards the back of the machine, but it is made to be turned a particular way to fit the shape of the float. The guy obviously couldn’t figure out why it kept flooding and fouling the plug so he just put a new plug in it and put it up for sale, never mentioning the problem to me. I was pretty aggravated until I figured out the problem but now the joke is on him because I paid $500 less than he paid and he added a cooling fan, an hour meter, a grip bar, changed the hydraulic fluid and engine oil to higher quality fluids. I did a video on the carburetor float issue in case anyone else bought one that was flooding straight out of the gate. It is on my other channel “Wisdom and the Woods”. Thanks for your videos.
Dang, what a pain! At least you got it figured out and ended up with a good deal on a machine. Amazing how handy these are to have around the property!!
Just a tip on parking it up for the night ,Lower your blade to the ground and put your bucket on the ground also. Im thinking of buying a little digger to play with, I have 5 acers to work with.
One strap across the dozer blade is woefully inadequate. Theres a reason commercial operators use 5 straps/chains. A strap across machine can still slide. Anchor all four corners. Secure boom-bucket
I just had a new Groundhog ZH12G delivered a few days ago from the Texas dealer and the fuel switch was left on for 1700 plus miles and 3 days on the road. It sounded like a dead battery when the driver went to crank it but after a few more cranks gas which I thought was water sprayed out of the tail pipe and then it started and ran fine to unload it. I did not know about that type of engine hydro locking. I am glad you showed this in your video. I was worried that there was another issue with the machine as I am dealing with broken off console mount bolts, seat lid bolts missing, and a track lever knob gone, and a crooked and loose battery and light and swing boom switches popped out all from an apparent rough three-day ride on the road.
Wow. That’s not cool. Did the truck driver go off roading?! lol. Is Groundhog sending you the parts to fix the machine? From my experience, the factory seat mount bolts suck anyway and I replaced mine. The console mount bolts started to rust on mine, so I changed them out with some zinc coated ones. Once you get it all fixed, They are a lot of fun.
I wonder if it might help to carry an old 2 x 12 plank about 6' long so when loading you don't tear up the ground with the bucket? Put the plank on the ground as a skidding plate for the bucket.
Fyi check your engine oil after that hydro lock. Your level might be high because of fuel in the oil. I would change it. We have a rental log spliter and if people forget to shut the fuel off it happens too. Every time there was fuel in the oil
Don't have one yet... but leaning that way. Not sure why guess a new toy would be fun. Thanks for showing me around. Enjoyed the video thank you. God Bess. NW ga.
Spend approximately less than 400 bucks and ditch those Amazon Straps and invest into real chains and boomers. You are a accident waiting to happen with those straps. Come On Man
Chains are your best bet for tie downs, tractor supply on any farm supply has them. The strap type have broke or cut through on me. As to your seat bolts, get some fiber lock type nut and bolts and replace any garbage bolts and nuts you can. Good job on the loading, I see what you mean, it looked like you were about to flip over. Is there some way you could cut a hole in the sheet metal so you could reach the fuel shut off? Looking forward to your future videos as you find a correct the problems, big help to others.
put your bucket and blade down and get some ramps you did everything wrong like a comedy sketch and posted it for all to see kudos my friend, you probably saved some lives by sharing it all.
Yeah, the cylinder was full of fuel. According to google, “An engine can become hydrolocked with gasoline if too much liquid fuel enters the combustion chambers: What is hydrolock? Hydrolock occurs when a liquid, such as water, coolant, engine oil, or gasoline, fills the engine's combustion chambers and prevents the pistons from completing their compression stroke. This causes the engine to seize up and stop running. “
Thank you! Yes I do like it. Unfortunately I just got a newer Kymron machine. The Yanmar diesel powered XH20D and I don’t think I’ll use my 1!ton much anymore. They don’t sell this model anymore, it’s a RH14-3 and back when I bought it, I paid about $10k for it.
Your machine looks almost identical to my Hightop HT10BZ including the factory hydraulic oil cooler. Question - have you opened up the panel where the control levers are? If so, how do you do it?
Yes! I thought it also is a HT10BZ. Yes I have. Take the bolts off the front of the panel by the arm. I think they are 12mms. With those removed, unplug the gauges and it comes right off exposing the valves. Where do you live?
Question. What is shortest trailer you could load it on? So with boom and bucket as tight to the machine as it will go how far from back of bucket to front of blade?
The machine up to the dozer blade is about 5 feet. The boom out and bucket touching the ground up front is almost another 5 feet with the arm vertical.
believe it of not I use my Mini Excavator to dig my Case 580C out the other day. Ground was so wet that I could not get a good pull with the Backhoe. (like brown rice pudding) Day one. Dig a ditch to drain the area. Day 2 More Rain Day 3 Checked on the drain ditch. Day 4 Lift the 580C with its' out riggers and bucket and put dirt under the wheels. Day 5 pull dirt out from under the back of the tires and put more dirt under the wheels Day 7 I could jump in place without sinking so I grabbed a load with the backhoe put the buck down as a skid and pulled her out (3 pulls before the wheels caught) The mud was so sticky and heavy it would have taken days to dig out by hand and would have taken 2 weeks or more for the area to dry up less I dug the ditch. Kinda of funny that the size diff in the 2 machines and the little one recused the big one
@@nicholasproietto2500 agreed. I usually use some nice thick Rhino straps, not these little retractable ones. I love the retractable straps by the way. lol.
I actually usually do too. I wanted to try these little retractable ratcheting straps and probably won’t use them for this again. I do use these on my side by side. One on each corner.
I haven’t had to warranty or repair anything. I have called one parts, like attachments. He did hook me up with a touch up paint bottle. I’m sure my warranty is up now, I’ve had it over a year. Still no issues.
There's chain tie spots on each end of the track intended to tie down the machine, they are clearly visible in the video. The machine weighs over 1 ton, so you require 4 independent points of attachment for the body. Your retractable ratchet straps have a working load limit of 500lbs. You should have 5 straps on this machine - one from each lower anchor point to the pockets, and then one over the bucket, for a working limit of 2500lbs and proper lashing methodology. You may or may not have to tie down the push blade, as it is usually considered structural and not an attachment (and is often a tie-down point itself for the whole machine on other brands) Be safe, not quick
Yeah I actually purchased some car straps and use them now. I usually used my side by side straps but decided these straps in the video would work since they say 1100lb straps. But the smaller print says load 400lb. You are correct.
Straps are fine just use some bigger heavy duty ones and make sure they aren't rubbing anywhere. Even the angled steel is enough to start wearing through a strap.
A set of arched ramps would absolutely help with loading your machine. I’m not sure it would be faster to load it…but it would be a little easier. I probably would do it the way you’re doing it and just get comfortable as you gain experience lol. Get yourself some inexpensive axle straps. They are cheap and will save your ratchet straps. I tie everything down with a minimum of four separate straps for the very reason you experienced. Fun video! Even though you recorded it with a potato!
Haha. Thanks for the tips. I have ramps but it’s a pain to pull them out. My potato is actually an iPhone 15 pro max but I recorded it at 1080 30frames. Where I went wrong is I recoded the first half when it was getting dark so it looks crappy because of the low light setting. Sigh….
Hey, just fyi. When loading or offloading like that, you can use the boom and arm to help push / pull you so you're not dragging the bucket on the trailer or in the dirt.
I'm not an expert, but some lessons I've learned. If you're looking at your machine from either side and you look at the rail your tracks are on, you should see metal loops sticking out front and back. Those eye rings are designed to hook your chain through. So you can put a chain on each corner (not technically require for less than 10,000lbs but why not). You should also run one across your bucket on the machine, it's technically considered an attachment since it could potentially swing. For hold requirements, if you're doing four corners take half the limit of each chain/strap and add those up. If you're going across the blade and going trailer rail to trailer rail, take the full limit of the chain/strap. Make sue the total limit for all chains is greater than the weight of the machine. Ironically, those little one like to bounce as you drive so proper holding will make your life easier in the long run. You really never want a strap rubbing metal for the reasons you discovered. I'm kind of surprised Ron and those guys told you to do it that way.
You need to invest in a set of ramps, or get a trailer with buil in ramps. The method you're using is ridiculous amd dangerous. Without supporting the back of the trailer you're risking lifting the back wheels of your truck off the ground. Do that on a hill and you are going for a pucker factor ride.
I have ramps under the trailer. It’s quicker and easier to do this when there is a dip to put the trailer in. If my 2200lb machine lifts my 6000lb SUV, sure would make for a cool video! lol.
@@OurLifeInTreesthat's not how physics works. Your parking brake and tranmisson lock only works to lock your rear end not your front end. So raising the rear end even an inch higher than normal can cause the rear tires to let go. Just be safe and use ramps and put a block under the rear of the trailer so it doesn't lift the tow vehicle at all.
Your strap (sling) angles are far too severe! You are phenomenally overloading the straps! And they are far too light for the application. Even though it is only a 1 ton, you should be using chain and binders. It's your liability, do whatever you want or can afford to pay when it all goes wrong.
Agree his straps are too light, however you absolutely do not need chains and binders for such a light machine. The wider straps that you can buy at harbor freight or tractor supply are more than enough to secure light machines like this. I use 4 of the straps rated at 3300 lbs each whenever I haul my tractors. Never had an issie
@nicholasproietto2500 by law the is illegal. If you where to role over or stop suddenly the strap will flex and and become losse. Also a strap can not be used on any peace of equipment with sharp edges. So chains and binders can only be used. Plus you must have 4 points of contact.
Those look to be 1inch. If so there only 400 pounds. I have the 2inch and are 1000 pounds each. I use 4 of them. And running across like that is just asking for trouble. Take the back cover off. Lets heat out and allows access to check oil easyer. On the bolts. Use lock nuts. I used a ht10b for 2 years.
@OurLifeInTrees im in Oklahoma around seminole. I only have about 8 hours on this machine. In January I traded up on 3 machine. Upgraded Dump trailer, bought a mini skidsteer and up graded to the diggit em15. That being sed. I'm having to work on all the machines. Not fun with all thing and having to repair and or fix what need fixed . As far as the diggit. It 10 times better for me the the ht10b. It has its quarks. But all the Chinese stuff I have played with all have there quirks.
@@jtsokiehobbyandadventures6666Nice! I just ordered a mini skid steer from China. I got a sweet machine I think and a whole bunch of attachments! Can’t wait till they get here. What auction did you buy your ht10 at?
@OurLifeInTrees off of 244 I think just out side tulsa. The bad part about a bunch of the stand behind skidsteer is location of the oil stick. Some are vary hard to check. Where are u located
Why don’t u know how to use just the back flat part of the bucket or the teeth running the cylinder and mount on the ground will wear it out fast just use the flat back of bucket or the teeth
That load and unload onto a trailer is golden advice. Thanks.
I appreciate the feedback.
I ended up with a 1.6 ton AGT QK16R. It has the same quirks as the rest of the Chinese excavators but my biggest gripe is there isn’t a counter weight on it. It was also supposed to have a Briggs and Stratton engine but it is obviously a Chinese clone. A guy a couple of hours away from me bought it new and changed all the fluids and put a few upgrades on it and then put it up for sale. Once I got it home and ran it for less than an hour it flooded and shut off. I cleaned the plug and put it back in and it ran for a few minutes and flooded again. I pulled the carburetor and after a little investigating I noticed that the fuel bowl was turned towards the back of the machine, but it is made to be turned a particular way to fit the shape of the float. The guy obviously couldn’t figure out why it kept flooding and fouling the plug so he just put a new plug in it and put it up for sale, never mentioning the problem to me. I was pretty aggravated until I figured out the problem but now the joke is on him because I paid $500 less than he paid and he added a cooling fan, an hour meter, a grip bar, changed the hydraulic fluid and engine oil to higher quality fluids. I did a video on the carburetor float issue in case anyone else bought one that was flooding straight out of the gate. It is on my other channel “Wisdom and the Woods”.
Thanks for your videos.
Dang, what a pain! At least you got it figured out and ended up with a good deal on a machine. Amazing how handy these are to have around the property!!
Just a tip on parking it up for the night ,Lower your blade to the ground and put your bucket on the ground also. Im thinking of buying a little digger to play with, I have 5 acers to work with.
Yup. Good tips. It’s a fun little toy on the property for sure.
One strap across the dozer blade is woefully inadequate.
Theres a reason commercial operators use 5 straps/chains.
A strap across machine can still slide.
Anchor all four corners.
Secure boom-bucket
I just watched a video about properly securing machines tonDOY standards the other day. Good info.
I got one a month ago and love it. Thanks for the tip about the fuel shutoff. I will have to locate that on mine.
They are fun toys. Congrats.
I just had a new Groundhog ZH12G delivered a few days ago from the Texas dealer and the fuel switch was left on for 1700 plus miles and 3 days on the road. It sounded like a dead battery when the driver went to crank it but after a few more cranks gas which I thought was water sprayed out of the tail pipe and then it started and ran fine to unload it. I did not know about that type of engine hydro locking. I am glad you showed this in your video. I was worried that there was another issue with the machine as I am dealing with broken off console mount bolts, seat lid bolts missing, and a track lever knob gone, and a crooked and loose battery and light and swing boom switches popped out all from an apparent rough three-day ride on the road.
Wow. That’s not cool. Did the truck driver go off roading?! lol. Is Groundhog sending you the parts to fix the machine? From my experience, the factory seat mount bolts suck anyway and I replaced mine. The console mount bolts started to rust on mine, so I changed them out with some zinc coated ones. Once you get it all fixed, They are a lot of fun.
I wonder if it might help to carry an old 2 x 12 plank about 6' long so when loading you don't tear up the ground with the bucket? Put the plank on the ground as a skidding plate for the bucket.
That’s actually a great idea! Thanks!
Are you unable to move the boom and tracks at the same time so you don’t drag your bucket when loading?
So I can’t, one or the other. I would need an extra hand.
Fyi check your engine oil after that hydro lock. Your level might be high because of fuel in the oil. I would change it. We have a rental log spliter and if people forget to shut the fuel off it happens too. Every time there was fuel in the oil
Ohhhh good call. Thank you for the suggestion. Didn’t even think about that but it makes sense.
Don't have one yet... but leaning that way. Not sure why guess a new toy would be fun. Thanks for showing me around. Enjoyed the video thank you. God Bess. NW ga.
Thank you. Yeah, it’s a fun toy. I agree. Every household should have one. Haha
Spend approximately less than 400 bucks and ditch those Amazon Straps and invest into real chains and boomers. You are a accident waiting to happen with those straps. Come On Man
I already upgraded to some real ones.
Chains are your best bet for tie downs, tractor supply on any farm supply has them. The strap type have broke or cut through on me. As to your seat bolts, get some fiber lock type nut and bolts and replace any garbage bolts and nuts you can. Good job on the loading, I see what you mean, it looked like you were about to flip over. Is there some way you could cut a hole in the sheet metal so you could reach the fuel shut off? Looking forward to your future videos as you find a correct the problems, big help to others.
Thanks for the advice. I’m glad the videos are useful for you. I couldn’t find any when I first bought mine. I appreciate the feedback.
Locktite lock washer and locking nut should help
Yup. Wish I would have don’t that before.
Thanks for the video.
Hopefully it helps
Hola amigo , estas maquinas chinas como estan de recambios ? Suerte ,
So far so good. We will see what it looks like long term. I think most of it is easy to repair or replace.
put your bucket and blade down and get some ramps
you did everything wrong like a comedy sketch and posted it for all to see
kudos my friend, you probably saved some lives by sharing it all.
I have ramps, this way is more fun. Yeah it was all wrong, but I survived to try again another day!
Maybe add some eyelet bolts the same size as the ones that hold on your counter weighr
That’s a pretty good idea. Might make life easier.
Hydro locked engine is when water mixed with oil and cause friction between the piston and the cylinder and bent to rod.
Yeah, the cylinder was full of fuel.
According to google, “An engine can become hydrolocked with gasoline if too much liquid fuel enters the combustion chambers:
What is hydrolock?
Hydrolock occurs when a liquid, such as water, coolant, engine oil, or gasoline, fills the engine's combustion chambers and prevents the pistons from completing their compression stroke. This causes the engine to seize up and stop running. “
Hey brother, perfect video. Do you still like your Kymron? Do you mind me asking how much you paid for it?
Thank you! Yes I do like it. Unfortunately I just got a newer Kymron machine. The Yanmar diesel powered XH20D and I don’t think I’ll use my 1!ton much anymore. They don’t sell this model anymore, it’s a RH14-3 and back when I bought it, I paid about $10k for it.
Thank You!
Thank you!
Hi, great videos! Can you shed some light on your counterweight? Where did you get it, how did you attach it, what did it cost? Thanks in advance.
Thank you. It came on the machine and is held on by two bolts. I have a video on how to remove it in my maintenance video.
Buy some ramps from vevor. I am lucky i have a tilt bed with 4 foot that stays put and 16 foot tilt .
I have ramps but it’s a pain to pull them out.
Your machine looks almost identical to my Hightop HT10BZ including the factory hydraulic oil cooler. Question - have you opened up the panel where the control levers are? If so, how do you do it?
Yes! I thought it also is a HT10BZ. Yes I have. Take the bolts off the front of the panel by the arm. I think they are 12mms. With those removed, unplug the gauges and it comes right off exposing the valves.
Where do you live?
Straps should never touch anything, use the hooks only. The will abrade from the contact and break very easy.
Agreed. I usually do, that’s the way the dealer showed me to do it. Won’t do it that way again. lol.
Question. What is shortest trailer you could load it on? So with boom and bucket as tight to the machine as it will go how far from back of bucket to front of blade?
The machine up to the dozer blade is about 5 feet. The boom out and bucket touching the ground up front is almost another 5 feet with the arm vertical.
@@OurLifeInTrees awesome thank you very much!
With anything Chinese from dirt bikes to these machines it's a good idea to loctite everything before you use it.
Not a bad idea. Thanks.
To be on the safe side use chain and binders . Also bind down the bucket . The only problem with straps are sharp edges .
Yeah. I strapped it different last time.
I would only use chains and turnbuckles.
Good call
believe it of not I use my Mini Excavator to dig my Case 580C out the other day. Ground was so wet that I could not get a good pull with the Backhoe. (like brown rice pudding)
Day one. Dig a ditch to drain the area.
Day 2 More Rain
Day 3 Checked on the drain ditch.
Day 4 Lift the 580C with its' out riggers and bucket and put dirt under the wheels.
Day 5 pull dirt out from under the back of the tires and put more dirt under the wheels
Day 7 I could jump in place without sinking so I grabbed a load with the backhoe put the buck down as a skid and pulled her out (3 pulls before the wheels caught)
The mud was so sticky and heavy it would have taken days to dig out by hand and would have taken 2 weeks or more for the area to dry up less I dug the ditch.
Kinda of funny that the size diff in the 2 machines and the little one recused the big one
Hahah that stinks, but it’s a good story at least now. The baby machines do a good job for how small they are.
my honey badgers i sell come with a ducar orange aka honda.... the briggs has a value cam shaft issue
Nice. My new mini skid steer has a Honda as well.
Please invest in some chains and binders. For your safety and others
Probably a good call
Straps work just fine for these light machines, just not the cheap ones he was using.
@@nicholasproietto2500 agreed. I usually use some nice thick Rhino straps, not these little retractable ones. I love the retractable straps by the way. lol.
Blue Locative on seat bolts.
Good call.
You're using cheap straps for the excavator, I use 3" straps rated at 3500 lbs each, I use 4 straps.
I actually usually do too. I wanted to try these little retractable ratcheting straps and probably won’t use them for this again. I do use these on my side by side. One on each corner.
I am also here in Oklahoma (Newalla) . Did you get this from K&R? Are they not helping you our with this?
I did get it from K&R. What do you mean are they helping me with it?
@@OurLifeInTrees warranty repairs and parts.
I haven’t had to warranty or repair anything. I have called one parts, like attachments. He did hook me up with a touch up paint bottle. I’m sure my warranty is up now, I’ve had it over a year. Still no issues.
There's chain tie spots on each end of the track intended to tie down the machine, they are clearly visible in the video. The machine weighs over 1 ton, so you require 4 independent points of attachment for the body. Your retractable ratchet straps have a working load limit of 500lbs. You should have 5 straps on this machine - one from each lower anchor point to the pockets, and then one over the bucket, for a working limit of 2500lbs and proper lashing methodology. You may or may not have to tie down the push blade, as it is usually considered structural and not an attachment (and is often a tie-down point itself for the whole machine on other brands) Be safe, not quick
Yeah I actually purchased some car straps and use them now. I usually used my side by side straps but decided these straps in the video would work since they say 1100lb straps. But the smaller print says load 400lb. You are correct.
Id trust a ratchet strap for a dirtbike or 4 wheeler if you are hauling equipment you really need some good 3/8 chains and boomers
I usually use big old straps, first time playing with these ones.
Straps are fine just use some bigger heavy duty ones and make sure they aren't rubbing anywhere. Even the angled steel is enough to start wearing through a strap.
A set of arched ramps would absolutely help with loading your machine. I’m not sure it would be faster to load it…but it would be a little easier. I probably would do it the way you’re doing it and just get comfortable as you gain experience lol. Get yourself some inexpensive axle straps. They are cheap and will save your ratchet straps. I tie everything down with a minimum of four separate straps for the very reason you experienced. Fun video! Even though you recorded it with a potato!
Haha. Thanks for the tips. I have ramps but it’s a pain to pull them out.
My potato is actually an iPhone 15 pro max but I recorded it at 1080 30frames. Where I went wrong is I recoded the first half when it was getting dark so it looks crappy because of the low light setting. Sigh….
Glad you learned about the straps without paying any large amounts of stupid tax. LOL Best, --J.Andre. / Old Iron Acres
Yeah, I usually use larger straps and more of them. Tried the handy little ones. Nope. Don’t recommend them. lol.
Well, whatever you do, don't buy any ramps, and don't buy any chains and binders because that would be too responsible
My trailer has ramps and I actually have real tie downs, tried the fun ones and they didn’t work so well. Of well, back to the big straps.
Hey, just fyi. When loading or offloading like that, you can use the boom and arm to help push / pull you so you're not dragging the bucket on the trailer or in the dirt.
Not a bad idea to try.
FOR THE WHAT IT'S WORTH DEPARTMENT , BLUE LOCKTITE IS YOUR FRIEND.
Agreed. Should have used it. Lessons learned.
Get a gate and just walk with it it’s easiest way to do
I have ramps. Just don’t always want to pull them out.
Baby straps.. Go get some 6k lbsers. Harbor freight, tractor supply.
Good call. I already did.
Blue locktight
Agreed. In hindsight. And lockwashers.
I'm not an expert, but some lessons I've learned. If you're looking at your machine from either side and you look at the rail your tracks are on, you should see metal loops sticking out front and back. Those eye rings are designed to hook your chain through. So you can put a chain on each corner (not technically require for less than 10,000lbs but why not). You should also run one across your bucket on the machine, it's technically considered an attachment since it could potentially swing. For hold requirements, if you're doing four corners take half the limit of each chain/strap and add those up. If you're going across the blade and going trailer rail to trailer rail, take the full limit of the chain/strap. Make sue the total limit for all chains is greater than the weight of the machine. Ironically, those little one like to bounce as you drive so proper holding will make your life easier in the long run. You really never want a strap rubbing metal for the reasons you discovered. I'm kind of surprised Ron and those guys told you to do it that way.
That’s some good advice. Thanks for your help.
You need to invest in a set of ramps, or get a trailer with buil in ramps. The method you're using is ridiculous amd dangerous. Without supporting the back of the trailer you're risking lifting the back wheels of your truck off the ground. Do that on a hill and you are going for a pucker factor ride.
I have ramps under the trailer. It’s quicker and easier to do this when there is a dip to put the trailer in. If my 2200lb machine lifts my 6000lb SUV, sure would make for a cool video! lol.
@@OurLifeInTreesthat's not how physics works. Your parking brake and tranmisson lock only works to lock your rear end not your front end. So raising the rear end even an inch higher than normal can cause the rear tires to let go. Just be safe and use ramps and put a block under the rear of the trailer so it doesn't lift the tow vehicle at all.
Your strap (sling) angles are far too severe! You are phenomenally overloading the straps! And they are far too light for the application. Even though it is only a 1 ton, you should be using chain and binders. It's your liability, do whatever you want or can afford to pay when it all goes wrong.
Probably great advice. Thanks.
Agree his straps are too light, however you absolutely do not need chains and binders for such a light machine. The wider straps that you can buy at harbor freight or tractor supply are more than enough to secure light machines like this. I use 4 of the straps rated at 3300 lbs each whenever I haul my tractors. Never had an issie
@nicholasproietto2500 by law the is illegal. If you where to role over or stop suddenly the strap will flex and and become losse. Also a strap can not be used on any peace of equipment with sharp edges. So chains and binders can only be used. Plus you must have 4 points of contact.
❤❤
Thanks.
Those look to be 1inch. If so there only 400 pounds. I have the 2inch and are 1000 pounds each. I use 4 of them. And running across like that is just asking for trouble. Take the back cover off. Lets heat out and allows access to check oil easyer. On the bolts. Use lock nuts. I used a ht10b for 2 years.
They are 1k lb straps. Er, uh were. Hahah
Nice! How do you like your machine? Any issues? Where are you located? I’m in Oklahoma.
@OurLifeInTrees im in Oklahoma around seminole. I only have about 8 hours on this machine. In January I traded up on 3 machine. Upgraded Dump trailer, bought a mini skidsteer and up graded to the diggit em15. That being sed. I'm having to work on all the machines. Not fun with all thing and having to repair and or fix what need fixed . As far as the diggit. It 10 times better for me the the ht10b. It has its quarks. But all the Chinese stuff I have played with all have there quirks.
@@jtsokiehobbyandadventures6666Nice! I just ordered a mini skid steer from China. I got a sweet machine I think and a whole bunch of attachments! Can’t wait till they get here.
What auction did you buy your ht10 at?
@OurLifeInTrees off of 244 I think just out side tulsa. The bad part about a bunch of the stand behind skidsteer is location of the oil stick. Some are vary hard to check. Where are u located
Put you a D-ring or a clevis on that steel underneath piece
Not a bad idea.
Why don’t u know how to use just the back flat part of the bucket or the teeth running the cylinder and mount on the ground will wear it out fast just use the flat back of bucket or the teeth
Ok. Good suggestion. Just learning this thing. Thanks.