I drove one today for the first time. My septic guy left it with me and told me I could use it. I don't think he knew I had never driven one ever! It is a Case CX50B. The thing is, I had watched a ton of your videos so I just took it real easy and started with some small stumps in my back yard, and then pulled up some chain link fence. After about an hour I was pretty decent on it, but still being super careful and moving relatively slow. There is no way I could have done this without these videos, and even though I had never even sat on one, I totally knew how to be safe with it. And I had zero problems. Thanks man! I want one now of course!
That is so awesome to hear! Thank you for sharing! Yes, the key is to just take it slow and always respect the machine. You will learn more and more with seat time.
I started on a back how in 3rd grade. New water line. Guy had to leave. I almost put a opening on North side of garage. He had @6’ against house to do. Track hoe? Go for it. I almost bought a mini. Lots of roadside ditch to clean out.,
@@HeavyMetalLearning I did have some lifting today with the blade in the front. (meaning I lifted the machine a bit) In retrospect it would have been better in the rear. I was smart enough to start with very light loads and on nice level ground (first time operator today! Woo Hoo!)
Always dig with the blade in front of you keep you stable the only time you did with it behind you is if your ass end is pointing downhill and you want to level off with it
We mainly dig with blade in front. On slopes of 10% - 50%, we dig with blade behind. When lifting a heavy boulder, better have that blade in front so you don’t tip forward all the sudden. Also, if traveling on level flat ground, bring the arm up and stick in as close to the machine as possible for the best ride.
Heavy Metal Learning not a great idea to dig over sprockets , should avoid it where possible .... would get fired here for that except on a 1.5 or micro
I own a Takeuchi TB240 and I rip out alot of stumps, Ive always found it easier to have the blade in front of me to keep from pulling the machine around as the roots are much harder to dig through than earth. That or if I am hanging over a banken, I use it as an outrigger to remain stable. As far as mistakes ( I still do this from time to time) taking off with the blade down is a very common one. Another note, the blade in the front can help you when cleaning up a pile as it gives you something to push the pile against once it gets too small. May want to add, Ive seen people not familiar with equipment do 360 degree turns and dig the machine into the ground excessively as they turn. I always make gradual turns to save the running gear and tracks. Good video!
The blade goes where ever you need it. It is not a mistake if you are digging hard ground on a steep grade. It is better to have the blade in the back if you are digging to full depth. The blade gets in the way when you are trying reach the max depth of the machine. If you are siding down a hill, then it goes in front. That doesn't mean it's a mistake. If you are loading a truck on top of a pile, then it goes in front so you don't slide off the top of the pile and fall 8 feet on the roof. That is not a mistake. Usually small machines have rubber tracks or street pads, so you end up with the blade in front to keep from sliding around when it's muddy. That is not a mistake. Maybe just different techniques for different situations?
Been excavating for myself since 1987 I typically fill trucks with the blade in front for support. We load fast and heavy clay so the added support of the blade in front is beneficial. But I do see how extended arm trenching with the blade behind can help with keeping the machine steady
Great job on your videos, I've been operating my own equipment for years (no doubt having dumb luck without proper training in the beginning), such a great resource that you're making available online...so worthwhile for anyone wanting to learn and improve. Thanks so much.
Good Morning! I have been watching your videos the last couple weeks, as my family decided to invest in a mini-excavator as it is so difficult to get contractors to show up in a timely manner for a reasonable price (among other issues). Based upon current rates, I figure that the break-even point on the purchase versus paying someone else is about 400 hours. Having zero experience in an excavator before taking delivery two weeks ago, I am now up to 16 hours of seat time, and haven’t wrecked anything so far. A neighbor, who was a heavy-equipment operator for forty years, happened by last week and commented to my wife, “He isn’t very good with that thing, is he?” as I was fighting out an 18” walnut stump. Mrs. Replied “He only has five hours on it.” Neighbor then said “Well, he’s doing really good then!” The hardest part of being a new excavator operator is overcoming muscle memory from operating a Bobcat 610 for 7+ years - every time I try using the foot controls for movement and then try to use boom/stick controls simultaneously , I unconsciously start trying to use the foot controls to operate the boom, with entertaining results. So I only use foot controls when no boom operations are taking place. Thank you for providing such useful content - I am certain I would be performing far worse without it!
I will be renting one in a couple days with 0 experice. I appreciate your videos. I feel like I'll save a couple hours of time already knowing what you teach. I especially like the tip on digging a trench 6-12 inches deep at a time and practicing scraping the teeth along the ground.
I was always taught to dig with the blade at the back so that you still have the stability and it’s not in the way and also if you are cleaning up dirt it is easier to have your blade at the front so you can use it as something to stop the material and pick it up. Also if you are digging a trench put the material to the right so when you are swinging back into the trench you can see people in the trench if they are in it so you don’t hit them.
It isn't often I use 360 excavators but when I do I generally park the machine inline with its tracks, blade up, dipper fully out and bucket fully opened out. I do this so all the hydraulic rams are closed and not exposed to weather or risk of other damage.
I have only operated a mini Ex once for about 10 hours. My experience is on a Backhoe and a larger size excavator( 15yrs, 7yrs ). We live on a mountain so all the terrain is pitched. I found it was most important that the blade was downhill for stability. I was far more worried tipping that mini on 4-1 than I ever was On a D6 on 2-1 slope. On level ground doing shallow digging I simply found it faster to have blade in front. Our ground is soft with deep soil.
Thanks for these videos, new mini excavator owner here, little backhoe experience, but these really help keep me out of trouble and get me working on my farm.
I am an operator for about 35 years now, great video but I disagree with digging with the blade behind. Reason is least wear and tear on drive motors, and who cares if you slightly pick up the machine when pushing down, if so take the bucket back up a bit. I put my blade down with some slight pressure on it, especially when digging out tree stumps or pulling up concrete or other heavy work. Even the smallest drive motors cost thousands, and mine leaked oil bad because of digging the wrong way.
Thanks for the comment. I can see that. Definitely on larger machines I agree with digging over your idlers but these smaller machines help to have that downward pressure with the blade behind you. But as with all things I don’t think there is ONE right way.
@@HeavyMetalLearning That seems like a good point, and I'm more of a mechanic than operator for sure. I will think about all of this as I hone my skills.
@@HeavyMetalLearning - I'm gonna go with Jimi here... I dig mostly with the blade in front, trenches, water hydrants, rocks, stumps, roots, etc. If the soil is hard enough that you need the blade in the back, I would tend to just take a shallower cut or scrape with the teeth first - bucket teeth are cheap compared to other components.
Many small excavator houses extend over the tracks. If you operate one of those you need to turn the house so you have a safe step. Life is so much better then the draq line I started on almost sixty years ago.
I agree with a ll the positive statments. Thank you in advance, I have a job working with a family member with zero experience. He will watch all these videos before ever turning the key to start.
The blade belongs where it belongs. Totally different on a grade. I dont think digging over drive motors is as big a deal with rubber tracks, more forgiving. But those aren't.. I wouldn't do it if I didnt have to. Also I always turn the house a little right when parking. We could see clearly when you step down with it square you had maybe a heals worth of track to step on. If you kick it 10 degrees or so to the right (from seat) you have the whole track to step on.
I agree with the parking comment. My Bobcat E35 does not have tracks nearly as wide as the mini in the video (or my cab is wider! 😁), and if parked with cab aligned with the track I can't see the track when I step down. Much easier when angled off.
I have a 2013 Yanmar Vio35-6A with many different pin grab buckets and attachments. One "mistake" I'll never make again is leaving removable buckets sitting in the middle of a location (where it's real easy to NOT see it, and forget about it, while sitting in the nice 50,000 pickup truck) and then accidentally run it over😳. I now make sure that any loose buckets are well away from any possible vehicle travel areas.
I just finally got accepted into my local operator's union apprenticeship program, it was difficult to get in. I go for 10 weeks of training in May. I have zero experience and watching you're videos have given me alot of confidence. One thing I've noticed with the operator's I work with is they never grease all the fittings. How often do you grease everything up?
It really depends. A lot of places that are running their machines hard are greasing them at the end of every shift. We track our hours on our machines and generally aim to do a full grease of the arm/bucket every 30 hours (with that said our machines sit idle for a good bit so that's probably a higher number than most machines on job sites). I would say machines should be greased every 10-20 hours. That's usually just the main arm/bucket components, there are usually stickers/decals on the machine that will tell you how often the other components should be greased. Hope that helps.
Stupid question here .But trying to get in to a local union as well, would it be a bad idea to mention that you have been watching youtube and gaining information? I have been a factory boy for the past 4 years and ready to move on.
@@travism.oakland9279 Not a stupid question at all. Ultimately I'm not sure I would go in to any interview and mention my experience includes watching UA-cam videos. Just not relevant because it's not real hands-on experience. Instead, I would recommend gaining as much internal knowledge as possible from watching online videos (and reading comments from experienced operators) which then hopefully will accelerate your training process once on the job. At least that's my 2 cents....
@@travism.oakland9279 I might suggest that you find some space to learn (an empty field or some reasonably level property that you or a friend own) and rent an excavator first to get some hands-on. In my area the minis rent for about $250 / day - a small personal investment to make in your "education"... I had a boss one time refer to this as "personal professional career development". Good Luck!
About digging over the side . Rotexs are made with a harder bearing race and tooth surface at the front of about 20o , and marked that way when you install one . All of the ones Ive replace from wear or broken were caused by guys digging over the side alot . So if youre working it hard , dont dig over the side . While Im at it , on all excavators , boom cracks in the middle of the arch are caused by twisting against the baffle stiffener plates inside the boom . the crack generally runs down the weld , or the cylinder boss weld . The number one cause of that is " Sweeping " . Dont sweep . The side loading on your bucket is what keeps guys like me employed. Ive pretty much seen all the inventive ways of wrecking a machine .
My Kubota has an electronic key; therefore, I always extend the boom as far as possible and place it on the ground 45° off the trucks line. That prevents burglary that occurs very often around my area, especially when the machine is left at night in complete darkness
For larger machines absolutely. But for these smaller machines I think it’s better to use that blade to apply downward pressure behind you. But not absolutely required.
6:00 "fully extended like that." Here's what is confusing me. When filling the reservoir (having emptied it to work on hoses) I read that I have to "extend"/"contract". But in this case the manual is referring to the CYLINDERS -- not the 'limbs'. Your "extended" is the OPPOSITE of what the manual means. Limbs extended/contracted = cylinders contracted/extended. IS THAT CORRECT or do I still not understand? Someone, anyone? THANK YOU.
I'm a novice at this. I'm going to buy a mini excavator. I live in Oregon and my property is on steep land but there are roads. I have to traverse these roads to get where I'm going to work. Thing is some of these roads are outsloped. So when I'm traveling these roads do I put the arm and bucket on the uphill side? Or do I put it on the downhill side to break a fall? Sorry like I said I'm a novice I just don't know. If anybody can help me with this I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
Being a complete novice but do have my own unit so like to look after it What I always do if not using it for a while is get all the rams in over here in the U.K. lot of rain and they can get rusty if left out for long periods just a small point of what I do Thanks //
i just learned a very expensive lesson renting a tiny 2000lb machine. i needed to traverse a 20% grade slope because my land is all sloping and i tipped the thing totally over on its side. i just off and got away unhurt and get the excavator back upright with a comealong, but the engine got damaged running on its side and ill going to have to pay for that. i think what i should have done is dig a somewhat level road to drive the traverse on.
About the blade being on the back while digging so how about the positioning of it if the job would be lifting 5k pounds? Would it be then the blade needs to be in the same side as the thumb rather than on the opposite side? 🤔 Thanks
Informative video. Some guidance on the picking and carrying of loads would be useful. Needs to slew slowly, use short chains to limit load swing, reduce the lift capacity by 50%, etc.
on a farm with lots of drains to clean your always lifting from the side and specially if there are lots of weeds and dirt to come out and often suction from water/mud it,s a challenge to lift. also the ground is often sloping towards the drain that creates lift aswell,
Question when you are digging and lifting dirt or roots from the hole is it not better to have the blade in front of you. Yes it helps when digging down but is worse for pulling out off the hole. Any advice.
Does continuing to operate the controls when it has hit its max damage the machine? Like when the stick is fully extended and you accidentally continue to hold the control
No, not generally. While I wouldn’t recommend continually hitting those hard stops the hydraulics are typically designed to handle it. Again, still would make it a norm though because over time I could see you damaging a seal.
i have a mini ex, new to it, spinning of the ditch seems difficult, 24" bucket on kx040. Do i just suck or does the track width vs bucket size make this unsafe practice
I have hired in small mini excavators maybe 10 times to dig holes for planting larger trees and digging a 150 meter trench for a sewer line and augering out post holes. The ones I got were smaller than this one, no enclosed cab and I could tow them behind a pick up. I recently had to dig 400 meters of trench 3 ft deep here on my farm for a power and water trench The ground is rock hard clay cos we've had no rain (I'm in south east Australia) and a chain trencher couldn't do it so I hired a 8 ton CAT excavator. I found it as easy to operate as the mini machines , maybe easier cos you dont get bounced around so much in it. Soon I have to dig some dams here on my farm for irritation water storage and sound attenuating berms 3 meters high for some dog kennels I'm building. I'm going to get a 20 ton CAT excavator and do the job.. I wouldn't hesitate to get a 32. The mini machines are a good ,cheap way to learn. I normally operate mobile and pin jib cranes and rig and have worked for both Bechtel and Fluor here on gas projects. I wouldn't be good enough to work for them as a mud mover but I can do what I need for do here on the farm. With cranes they say it's only big the first day you're in it, after that it's just another crane. Same with the excavators. Hope this helps you mate.
my mini-ex cab is about the same width as the tracks...so when the bucket is square with tracks, there is NO step. i have to turn it slightly to be able to step.
So many times I've watched operators digging in hard ground with the blade in the back and the ass in the air, blade in front unless your digging deep down directly in front of you
HEY -- in the perpendicular side raising of the tires you were raising - Is it true that it also puts an extreme strain on the tract components that is Not a good thing in the long run - OR Not ? ! - and or how much of a big deal is it - say digging stumps that are hard to dig .
If you’re clearing trees or messy stuff like that it is safe to have idlers in the front. If something falls on the travel sticks the machine will travel backwards releasing the leavers.
In a larger machine loading trucks from a large stock pile and being higher on the pile than the top of the tires of truck (s) your loading (ESPECIALLY a LOT higher than tires as if your in the clouds 😉👌)
I think the guy on this channel has mentioned this tip before, but I get good results when only using a few feet of a stroke on the stick (dipper) arm, so that you're not moving the boom arm up and down very much. This way the pivot point between the dipper arm and the boom arm stays at more or less the same height, so your bucket does too. It means having to move the machine more frequently as your trench progresses, though.
Great question, but ultimately that just comes with practice and more experience. I strongly recommend doing the raking exercise we mention in our excavator 201 video. Practice dragging the teeth along the surface maintaining the same height, good practice for when you are trenching below the surface.
arlingtonguy54 hey man, I only have close to 2,000 hours on excavators so I wouldn’t say I’m experienced but I find keeping the bucket relatively flat in the trench keeps it pretty level, you’re probably never going to get a level trench but a few points I’ve picked up over time 1 taking off 6 inches or 150mm each rake is good especially in clays, it will stop you from ripping out huge chunks that would make the trench wider then intended especially important for concrete strip footings saves money on concrete and effort on shoring 2 when you get writhing 6 inches of your finish level start to dig with the bottom of the bucket flat and pull it slowly towards you , you want the teeth pointing towards you and flat to the ground but not digging into the ground, you’ll usually get a perfectly flat trench like this
and when you got the breaker on i would always have the blade at the front that fellow might know a lot of things but!! where you should have the blade is never at the back only on some occasions . but most of the time its at the front
Finally somebody that knows how to operate a excavator there are so many bozos out there that don't even have a clue listen to what this guy says he is really good most of these guys are putting the blade in front this guy knows how to operate an excavator you have to put the blade behind just like he says this guy is a real all the other guys are wannabe excavator operators good job
Like most people are saying here about the blade, I don't believe there's one correct way for orientation, I feel like it's part of operator preference as well. I don't tend to do much digging, but tend to drag things along with the mini. In these cases the machine can mostly barely handle the weight so having the blade in the back for that extra bit of weight is nice. When just lifting stuff up i'll definitely have it in the front, simply to not fall over forward
Like how he first took the stick and boom not full out so it had a chance too pick up the blade and after he took the stick and boom all the way out so i baciscly was impossible too pick up the front
I remember when I was digging up a pipe and there was a Big rock with a mini excavator and when I tell you I almost messed in my pants because when I went to dump the rock out of the bucket the mini excavator track went up into the air
The popular yukon gold miner television series mister cam johnson had his dozer driver come to close range to the edge and it slid sideway's and rolled over repeatedly and i've seen that happen to full size excavator machine's as well and perhap's that would be a good future "what not to do'' topic to cover and the mini size version's as well of dozer's and excavator machine's and may be good safety information provided for those wanting to go work for those popular yukon gold miner television gold miner opperation's owner's.
Typically for large machines I agree, but for the smaller machines I think it is better to use that blade to push downward pressure behind you. But I think it comes down to your preference.
Well you said in the video it keeps you from lifting yourself up, in my opinion if you’re a good operator you never lift yourself up while digging unless you’re in super hard ground
And in the real world on hire mate when you have done 20mts of trench for the day and the other bloke has done 200 if your blade is behind you you have more stroke you get more done that idler drive motor myth is from back in the day when the old cats and katos there drive motors used to hang out you could acualty hit them later model machines not so much unless your on something that is 60t or larger does not hurt it and considering all your sprockets these days are a molding not machined they are cheap to replace it either replace your sprockets or shimm your idler carage either way they both need to be done they are wearing parts
I have been an equipment operator instructor for 20 years. None of the manufacturers i have ever worked with recommended digging over the rear of the machine. Bad advice given here
The blade behind you is bullshit look at 3:17 as he lifts the boom it picks the back of the machine up and that's in soft ground you will find it a lot harder to dig like that rarther than the other way and you will protect the drives don't know why that just dosent apply for a smaller machine
Multiple ways to do it, it in those smaller machines I believe it’s better to use the blade behind you to push downward pressure. But again, totally understand wanting to protect the drives.
Pfft all these so called “experts” in the comment sections. As an operator of this machinery for 2 hours I can tell you straight up they’re wrong with the blade position. it gives more stability when it’s at the back. that’s what my trainer said anyway.
What about the golden rule of never dog over your drives. Dont make videos with statements of certainty because you are on some posts and you are right on others.
I wouldn't say that's necessarily a "golden rule". I think the difference with these smaller machines is they are rubber tracked which absorbs a lot of shock and those drives don't take nearly as much as a beating as the larger excavators. And with that said, I think blade placement behind on a mini-ex is the better practice for stability. But I also don't think there is ONE right way, so to each their own. Thanks for the comment!
@@HeavyMetalLearning Its a hard fast rule in excavator operations and from personal experience I've never had the need to have my blade behind me for more digging force. You will gain more break out power and lifting capacity with you blade in front of you and say your popping a rock or stump blade is definitely in front but in your defense for instance CAT even does state that a blade is better situated in the rear for more downward digging force but for me personally I'll keep my blade forward and re tool with a ripper shank or a breaker and this issue simply goes away. Guess the rule here is depends on what your situation is and what it I your trying to achieve.
@@HeavyMetalLearning I guess the next question is where do we establish the line. I own a 308 and a 315 both with steel tracks but also both with blades... now we have a conundrum 🤣
@@wgxinc Yeah, but I also wouldn't necessarily consider a 308 and definitely not a 315 as "mini" excavators. I think once you get up to machines that are over 10,000 lbs they are large enough to not need that downward force on a blade behind you. Just my 2 cents...
as a miner i've seen a vast difference between operating from construction. we dig down to bedrock, raise the bucket six inches to a foot, and remove overburden. then dig out the ore to be loaded in the truck. construction operators are all about digging the hole quickly.
Not entirely true as tlb operator I have to lend myself to any situation .... I.e , today I’m on infrastructure , tomorrow I’m digging sidewalks or digging footing or muck shifting .... either way you have to work to the situation not just get in and rip and tear
Interesting training videos..I Luke watching them .. yet the guy seems to be a book trained operator.. or office operator/ trainer .. Reason I say that is all mini excavator with a blade the problem u have alot time is large clogs dirt ..rocks ..tree roots .. grass clogs ..always seem to appear from nowhere ..sitting right on top of the blade HYD RAM ...and as per his point ..I see alot mini excavator drivers they all ..always stop the cab on a angle ..WELL hello mate welcome to the real world . As the operator has regularly kick off the Hyd ram these clogs other will break Ur Hyd fittings ..or start a small leak that over 8 has will 1/2 empty Ur Hydraulic tank .. or worst still scatch Ur ram and damage a seal ... Hence why all mini excavator operator get off this way to easy clean any thing from behind the blade
If you have to turn sharply on a paved surface another trick is to fully extend your boom outward, it will transfer more weight to your idlers and you will turn more easily and with less wear on your rubber tracks
totally disagree when digging i would always have the blade in front where i could it takes the strain of the under carriage easy to pick up stones that are close as well and its more stable so i dont agree with what hes saying at all and i am very experienced when your on a slant your pulling to stuff to you you got to have the blade down
You videos are very informative, but one little thing that I dont care for in your more advanced videos is the couple minutes in the beginning you always state what the video is not. I dont see then need to explain in depth what the video isnt, just a short and sweet statement saying check out the other vido (X) to see how to operate, inspect etc...
It helps cut down on the pointless posts from pseudo experts (general dumbasses/autistic LARPers) who don't actually watch or understand the whole video and what it's aiming at, but are still compelled to post their 'expertise' on things that have nothing to do with the video because it wasn't pointed out in fine detail.
As an equipment operator Instructor for Texas A&M University for 12 years, I have never encouraged digging while facing rearward. The machine is designed to operate while oriented in the forward position. Proper digging techniques will alleviate any tendency of the machine to become unstable. My 2 cents.
If you stretch out the arm the benefit is especially in a smaller machine it Makes it more difficult to crane up and steal, but you could potentially have someone drive into it. Don’t want to damage the boom
Tolga Matouk my way of looking at it is. It saves the rams from the weather and it being drive into wouldn’t be problem for me. Also on most machines you have to do that to get correct oil readings
stopping the machine and saying keep it square? crap some diggers dont have the tracks wider than the cab!!! so its the opposite stop the machine off centre so then you can steep onto the track my gods i should have his job !!!
I drove one today for the first time. My septic guy left it with me and told me I could use it. I don't think he knew I had never driven one ever! It is a Case CX50B. The thing is, I had watched a ton of your videos so I just took it real easy and started with some small stumps in my back yard, and then pulled up some chain link fence. After about an hour I was pretty decent on it, but still being super careful and moving relatively slow. There is no way I could have done this without these videos, and even though I had never even sat on one, I totally knew how to be safe with it. And I had zero problems. Thanks man! I want one now of course!
That is so awesome to hear! Thank you for sharing! Yes, the key is to just take it slow and always respect the machine. You will learn more and more with seat time.
I started on a back how in 3rd grade. New water line. Guy had to leave. I almost put a opening on North side of garage. He had @6’ against house to do.
Track hoe? Go for it. I almost bought a mini. Lots of roadside ditch to clean out.,
How many tons was the excavator
Drove a fork lift for a long time. Keeping the load low and close works there as well. Thanks for a great tutorial.
When your digging in harder ground your machine can pull itself forward so it depends on what the situation calls for to position your blade
I definitely agree with that...some circumstances call for different techniques.
@@HeavyMetalLearning I did have some lifting today with the blade in the front. (meaning I lifted the machine a bit) In retrospect it would have been better in the rear. I was smart enough to start with very light loads and on nice level ground (first time operator today! Woo Hoo!)
Always dig with the blade in front of you keep you stable the only time you did with it behind you is if your ass end is pointing downhill and you want to level off with it
We mainly dig with blade in front. On slopes of 10% - 50%, we dig with blade behind. When lifting a heavy boulder, better have that blade in front so you don’t tip forward all the sudden. Also, if traveling on level flat ground, bring the arm up and stick in as close to the machine as possible for the best ride.
Heavy Metal Learning not a great idea to dig over sprockets , should avoid it where possible .... would get fired here for that except on a 1.5 or micro
I own a Takeuchi TB240 and I rip out alot of stumps, Ive always found it easier to have the blade in front of me to keep from pulling the machine around as the roots are much harder to dig through than earth. That or if I am hanging over a banken, I use it as an outrigger to remain stable. As far as mistakes ( I still do this from time to time) taking off with the blade down is a very common one. Another note, the blade in the front can help you when cleaning up a pile as it gives you something to push the pile against once it gets too small. May want to add, Ive seen people not familiar with equipment do 360 degree turns and dig the machine into the ground excessively as they turn. I always make gradual turns to save the running gear and tracks. Good video!
Good advice...thanks for sharing!
The blade goes where ever you need it. It is not a mistake if you are digging hard ground on a steep grade. It is better to have the blade in the back if you are digging to full depth. The blade gets in the way when you are trying reach the max depth of the machine. If you are siding down a hill, then it goes in front. That doesn't mean it's a mistake. If you are loading a truck on top of a pile, then it goes in front so you don't slide off the top of the pile and fall 8 feet on the roof. That is not a mistake. Usually small machines have rubber tracks or street pads, so you end up with the blade in front to keep from sliding around when it's muddy. That is not a mistake. Maybe just different techniques for different situations?
I would agree. Definitely don’t think there is only one way, so there are different circumstances and techniques for others. Thanks for the comment!
I prefer to dig with the blade in front say if you’re scooping stuff up you can use the blade to make it easier to get a full bucket
Копать на полную глубину лезвие не мешает. Наоборот, оно застрахует вас от опрокидывания в котлован, в случае обвала.
Been excavating for myself since 1987
I typically fill trucks with the blade in front for support. We load fast and heavy clay so the added support of the blade in front is beneficial. But I do see how extended arm trenching with the blade behind can help with keeping the machine steady
@@andytaylor2321 me too its an added counter weight and stability addition for several situations how the video shows
Great job on your videos, I've been operating my own equipment for years (no doubt having dumb luck without proper training in the beginning), such a great resource that you're making available online...so worthwhile for anyone wanting to learn and improve. Thanks so much.
Thank you...appreciate that!
Good Morning!
I have been watching your videos the last couple weeks, as my family decided to invest in a mini-excavator as it is so difficult to get contractors to show up in a timely manner for a reasonable price (among other issues). Based upon current rates, I figure that the break-even point on the purchase versus paying someone else is about 400 hours. Having zero experience in an excavator before taking delivery two weeks ago, I am now up to 16 hours of seat time, and haven’t wrecked anything so far.
A neighbor, who was a heavy-equipment operator for forty years, happened by last week and commented to my wife, “He isn’t very good with that thing, is he?” as I was fighting out an 18” walnut stump. Mrs. Replied “He only has five hours on it.” Neighbor then said “Well, he’s doing really good then!”
The hardest part of being a new excavator operator is overcoming muscle memory from operating a Bobcat 610 for 7+ years - every time I try using the foot controls for movement and then try to use boom/stick controls simultaneously , I unconsciously start trying to use the foot controls to operate the boom, with entertaining results. So I only use foot controls when no boom operations are taking place.
Thank you for providing such useful content - I am certain I would be performing far worse without it!
I will be renting one in a couple days with 0 experice. I appreciate your videos. I feel like I'll save a couple hours of time already knowing what you teach. I especially like the tip on digging a trench 6-12 inches deep at a time and practicing scraping the teeth along the ground.
I was always taught to dig with the blade at the back so that you still have the stability and it’s not in the way and also if you are cleaning up dirt it is easier to have your blade at the front so you can use it as something to stop the material and pick it up. Also if you are digging a trench put the material to the right so when you are swinging back into the trench you can see people in the trench if they are in it so you don’t hit them.
Good advice, and definitely think there are several ways to do it. Thanks for the comment!
It isn't often I use 360 excavators but when I do I generally park the machine inline with its tracks, blade up, dipper fully out and bucket fully opened out. I do this so all the hydraulic rams are closed and not exposed to weather or risk of other damage.
Yes, that is a good practice. Thanks for the comment!
I have only operated a mini Ex once for about 10 hours. My experience is on a Backhoe and a larger size excavator( 15yrs, 7yrs ). We live on a mountain so all the terrain is pitched. I found it was most important that the blade was downhill for stability. I was far more worried tipping that mini on 4-1 than I ever was On a D6 on 2-1 slope. On level ground doing shallow digging I simply found it faster to have blade in front. Our ground is soft with deep soil.
Thanks for these videos, new mini excavator owner here, little backhoe experience, but these really help keep me out of trouble and get me working on my farm.
I am an operator for about 35 years now, great video but I disagree with digging with the blade behind. Reason is least wear and tear on drive motors, and who cares if you slightly pick up the machine when pushing down, if so take the bucket back up a bit. I put my blade down with some slight pressure on it, especially when digging out tree stumps or pulling up concrete or other heavy work. Even the smallest drive motors cost thousands, and mine leaked oil bad because of digging the wrong way.
Thanks for the comment. I can see that. Definitely on larger machines I agree with digging over your idlers but these smaller machines help to have that downward pressure with the blade behind you. But as with all things I don’t think there is ONE right way.
@@HeavyMetalLearning That seems like a good point, and I'm more of a mechanic than operator for sure. I will think about all of this as I hone my skills.
@@HeavyMetalLearning - I'm gonna go with Jimi here... I dig mostly with the blade in front, trenches, water hydrants, rocks, stumps, roots, etc. If the soil is hard enough that you need the blade in the back, I would tend to just take a shallower cut or scrape with the teeth first - bucket teeth are cheap compared to other components.
Many small excavator houses extend over the tracks. If you operate one of those you need to turn the house so you have a safe step. Life is so much better then the draq line I started on almost sixty years ago.
I agree with a ll the positive statments. Thank you in advance, I have a job working with a family member with zero experience. He will watch all these videos before ever turning the key to start.
Wonderful channel. Even though I know how to operate this machines I always learn something new from you.
Cheers from Italy
Glad to hear that!
The blade belongs where it belongs. Totally different on a grade. I dont think digging over drive motors is as big a deal with rubber tracks, more forgiving. But those aren't.. I wouldn't do it if I didnt have to.
Also I always turn the house a little right when parking. We could see clearly when you step down with it square you had maybe a heals worth of track to step on. If you kick it 10 degrees or so to the right (from seat) you have the whole track to step on.
Excellent point on the rubber tracks! Thanks for sharing!
I agree with the parking comment. My Bobcat E35 does not have tracks nearly as wide as the mini in the video (or my cab is wider! 😁), and if parked with cab aligned with the track I can't see the track when I step down. Much easier when angled off.
Your videos are amazing buddy. Love the content
I have a 2013 Yanmar Vio35-6A with many different pin grab buckets and attachments. One "mistake" I'll never make again is leaving removable buckets sitting in the middle of a location (where it's real easy to NOT see it, and forget about it, while sitting in the nice 50,000 pickup truck) and then accidentally run it over😳. I now make sure that any loose buckets are well away from any possible vehicle travel areas.
I just finally got accepted into my local operator's union apprenticeship program, it was difficult to get in. I go for 10 weeks of training in May. I have zero experience and watching you're videos have given me alot of confidence. One thing I've noticed with the operator's I work with is they never grease all the fittings. How often do you grease everything up?
It really depends. A lot of places that are running their machines hard are greasing them at the end of every shift. We track our hours on our machines and generally aim to do a full grease of the arm/bucket every 30 hours (with that said our machines sit idle for a good bit so that's probably a higher number than most machines on job sites). I would say machines should be greased every 10-20 hours. That's usually just the main arm/bucket components, there are usually stickers/decals on the machine that will tell you how often the other components should be greased. Hope that helps.
Stupid question here .But trying to get in to a local union as well, would it be a bad idea to mention that you have been watching youtube and gaining information? I have been a factory boy for the past 4 years and ready to move on.
@@travism.oakland9279 Not a stupid question at all. Ultimately I'm not sure I would go in to any interview and mention my experience includes watching UA-cam videos. Just not relevant because it's not real hands-on experience. Instead, I would recommend gaining as much internal knowledge as possible from watching online videos (and reading comments from experienced operators) which then hopefully will accelerate your training process once on the job. At least that's my 2 cents....
@@travism.oakland9279 I might suggest that you find some space to learn (an empty field or some reasonably level property that you or a friend own) and rent an excavator first to get some hands-on. In my area the minis rent for about $250 / day - a small personal investment to make in your "education"... I had a boss one time refer to this as "personal professional career development". Good Luck!
About digging over the side . Rotexs are made with a harder bearing race and tooth surface at the front of about 20o , and marked that way when you install one . All of the ones Ive replace from wear or broken were caused by guys digging over the side alot . So if youre working it hard , dont dig over the side . While Im at it , on all excavators , boom cracks in the middle of the arch are caused by twisting against the baffle stiffener plates inside the boom . the crack generally runs down the weld , or the cylinder boss weld . The number one cause of that is " Sweeping " . Dont sweep . The side loading on your bucket is what keeps guys like me employed. Ive pretty much seen all the inventive ways of wrecking a machine .
Interesting...thanks for sharing!
My Kubota has an electronic key; therefore, I always extend the boom as far as possible and place it on the ground 45° off the trucks line. That prevents burglary that occurs very often around my area, especially when the machine is left at night in complete darkness
Being squared not always doable unless your clumsy,but putting the bucket on the ground when rotating the undercariage is a must
Thanks for the comment!
I always heard you should not dig over the drive motors. What do you say?
For larger machines absolutely. But for these smaller machines I think it’s better to use that blade to apply downward pressure behind you. But not absolutely required.
I agree, I've been told to never dig over the drives.
Great videos, I want to one where you're working on slopes pushing over trees, delimbing them and piling them and brush into piles.
I have a mini and I have found it digs better off the blade in front.
Thanks for the comment!
6:00 "fully extended like that."
Here's what is confusing me. When filling the reservoir (having emptied it to work on hoses) I read that I have to "extend"/"contract". But in this case the manual is referring to the CYLINDERS -- not the 'limbs'. Your "extended" is the OPPOSITE of what the manual means.
Limbs extended/contracted = cylinders contracted/extended.
IS THAT CORRECT or do I still not understand? Someone, anyone?
THANK YOU.
I'm a novice at this. I'm going to buy a mini excavator. I live in Oregon and my property is on steep land but there are roads. I have to traverse these roads to get where I'm going to work. Thing is some of these roads are outsloped. So when I'm traveling these roads do I put the arm and bucket on the uphill side? Or do I put it on the downhill side to break a fall? Sorry like I said I'm a novice I just don't know. If anybody can help me with this I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
Being a complete novice but do have my own unit so like to look after it What I always do if not using it for a while is get all the rams in over here in the U.K. lot of rain and they can
get rusty if left out for long periods just a small point of what I do Thanks //
i just learned a very expensive lesson renting a tiny 2000lb machine. i needed to traverse a 20% grade slope because my land is all sloping and i tipped the thing totally over on its side. i just off and got away unhurt and get the excavator back upright with a comealong, but the engine got damaged running on its side and ill going to have to pay for that. i think what i should have done is dig a somewhat level road to drive the traverse on.
Be careful Steve. I have land with similar slope and Zi am really respectful.
Very good video Randy spot on mate
Thanks Jeremy!
What would be a good size mini to dig around home Basement foundations for repair and WATERPROFFING
If you're 6'4" and you dont want somebody getting in and changing controls or the radio station, park it as far off center as possible.
NICE!!!
About the blade being on the back while digging so how about the positioning of it if the job would be lifting 5k pounds? Would it be then the blade needs to be in the same side as the thumb rather than on the opposite side? 🤔
Thanks
Informative video.
Some guidance on the picking and carrying of loads would be useful. Needs to slew slowly, use short chains to limit load swing, reduce the lift capacity by 50%, etc.
on a farm with lots of drains to clean your always lifting from the side and specially if there are lots of weeds and dirt to come out and often suction from water/mud it,s a challenge to lift. also the ground is often sloping towards the drain that creates lift aswell,
Question when you are digging and lifting dirt or roots from the hole is it not better to have the blade in front of you. Yes it helps when digging down but is worse for pulling out off the hole. Any advice.
I would have the blade in front. It will stop your machine being pulled forward when trying to rip out stumps or roots.
Does continuing to operate the controls when it has hit its max damage the machine? Like when the stick is fully extended and you accidentally continue to hold the control
No, not generally. While I wouldn’t recommend continually hitting those hard stops the hydraulics are typically designed to handle it. Again, still would make it a norm though because over time I could see you damaging a seal.
Got any tips for working minis on slope?
when the ground is icy, you definitely need the blade in back for down pressure. but in either position ice will move the excavator.
Good point...thanks for sharing!
I dig pools for a living and i have to have the blade in the front to balance on the ramp
That makes sense...thanks for the comment!
same when digging on a steep ramp. you try to lift a bucket with a load of rocks and your excavator will tilt forward, dropping you into the hole.
Good teacher ❤❤❤❤
Good editing
Thanks!
your welcome
Great information
Glad it was helpful!
Where did you get the mirrors on the outside of cab?
i have a mini ex, new to it, spinning of the ditch seems difficult, 24" bucket on kx040. Do i just suck or does the track width vs bucket size make this unsafe practice
Is there a big difference between operating a mini excavator and one of the larger ones?
No...generally if you can operate a small one you can run a big one...or vice versa.
@@HeavyMetalLearning Thanks, that's what I thought. You guys have a cool channel. My 7 year old son is obsessed with your videos.
@@ConstructionMachineryChannel love it....tell him thanks for watching our videos! We love all of our fans!!!
I have hired in small mini excavators maybe 10 times to dig holes for planting larger trees and digging a 150 meter trench for a sewer line and augering out post holes. The ones I got were smaller than this one, no enclosed cab and I could tow them behind a pick up. I recently had to dig 400 meters of trench 3 ft deep here on my farm for a power and water trench The ground is rock hard clay cos we've had no rain (I'm in south east Australia) and a chain trencher couldn't do it so I hired a 8 ton CAT excavator. I found it as easy to operate as the mini machines , maybe easier cos you dont get bounced around so much in it. Soon I have to dig some dams here on my farm for irritation water storage and sound attenuating berms 3 meters high for some dog kennels I'm building. I'm going to get a 20 ton CAT excavator and do the job.. I wouldn't hesitate to get a 32. The mini machines are a good ,cheap way to learn. I normally operate mobile and pin jib cranes and rig and have worked for both Bechtel and Fluor here on gas projects. I wouldn't be good enough to work for them as a mud mover but I can do what I need for do here on the farm. With cranes they say it's only big the first day you're in it, after that it's just another crane. Same with the excavators. Hope this helps you mate.
@@andersonsroad5161 This helps a lot, I was hoping to hear from someone that has experience driving both and you did exactly that. Thank you
good vids. nice job
my mini-ex cab is about the same width as the tracks...so when the bucket is square with tracks, there is NO step. i have to turn it slightly to be able to step.
Yes, good point. Thanks for the comment!
So many times I've watched operators digging in hard ground with the blade in the back and the ass in the air, blade in front unless your digging deep down directly in front of you
Interesting....I've seen the opposite. But I don't think there is any ONE right way.
HEY -- in the perpendicular side raising of the tires you were raising - Is it true that it also puts an extreme strain on the tract components that is Not a good thing in the long run - OR Not ? ! - and or how much of a big deal is it - say digging stumps that are hard to dig .
If you’re clearing trees or messy stuff like that it is safe to have idlers in the front. If something falls on the travel sticks the machine will travel backwards releasing the leavers.
That's one reason to do it...probably not my primary reason....thanks for sharing!
In a larger machine loading trucks from a large stock pile and being higher on the pile than the top of the tires of truck (s) your loading (ESPECIALLY a LOT higher than tires as if your in the clouds 😉👌)
Thanks for the comment!
When you are going uphill and downhill where the front blade goes?
Tenk you
welcome
When trenching I am still trying to learn how to keep the depth even. I seem to end up with a roller coaster trench bottom. Any suggestions?
I think the guy on this channel has mentioned this tip before, but I get good results when only using a few feet of a stroke on the stick (dipper) arm, so that you're not moving the boom arm up and down very much. This way the pivot point between the dipper arm and the boom arm stays at more or less the same height, so your bucket does too. It means having to move the machine more frequently as your trench progresses, though.
S Ott X that makes sense. Thanks
Keep your bucket flat with the trench
Great question, but ultimately that just comes with practice and more experience. I strongly recommend doing the raking exercise we mention in our excavator 201 video. Practice dragging the teeth along the surface maintaining the same height, good practice for when you are trenching below the surface.
arlingtonguy54 hey man, I only have close to 2,000 hours on excavators so I wouldn’t say I’m experienced but I find keeping the bucket relatively flat in the trench keeps it pretty level, you’re probably never going to get a level trench but a few points I’ve picked up over time
1 taking off 6 inches or 150mm each rake is good especially in clays, it will stop you from ripping out huge chunks that would make the trench wider then intended especially important for concrete strip footings saves money on concrete and effort on shoring
2 when you get writhing 6 inches of your finish level start to dig with the bottom of the bucket flat and pull it slowly towards you , you want the teeth pointing towards you and flat to the ground but not digging into the ground, you’ll usually get a perfectly flat trench like this
and when you got the breaker on i would always have the blade at the front that fellow might know a lot of things but!! where you should have the blade is never at the back only on some occasions . but most of the time its at the front
There is a time and place for both directions
When ditching you have to be side on. Is that tippy
Finally somebody that knows how to operate a excavator there are so many bozos out there that don't even have a clue listen to what this guy says he is really good most of these guys are putting the blade in front this guy knows how to operate an excavator you have to put the blade behind just like he says this guy is a real all the other guys are wannabe excavator operators good job
When your right you are right top shelf
Thanks!
Should I be scared to reposition?
Like most people are saying here about the blade, I don't believe there's one correct way for orientation, I feel like it's part of operator preference as well. I don't tend to do much digging, but tend to drag things along with the mini. In these cases the machine can mostly barely handle the weight so having the blade in the back for that extra bit of weight is nice. When just lifting stuff up i'll definitely have it in the front, simply to not fall over forward
Good advice....thanks for sharing!
gee thank you
I learn a lot from you boss. I want to work in Ireland can you help
can you do a video about the komatsu pc 55 mini excavator?? it can be good
so do u have a school, or apprenticeship i can join? seriously
please make an advanced video!!
We have multiple videos on each piece so just check our separate equipment playlists on our channel.
Like how he first took the stick and boom not full out so it had a chance too pick up the blade and after he took the stick and boom all the way out so i baciscly was impossible too pick up the front
hmmmm
@@HeavyMetalLearningand no hate towards you guys just somthing i noticed and felt like commenting on but still good content so keep up the good work👍
I have a ex200hitachi no blade
nice
i like the blade in the front for digging hard or frozen ground.
That works...thanks for the comment!
He got so scared when he had the tires out fully extended
terrified
I remember when I was digging up a pipe and there was a Big rock with a mini excavator and when I tell you I almost messed in my pants because when I went to dump the rock out of the bucket the mini excavator track went up into the air
On Sunday working
I you have to deep blade at the back push it down you win half a meter
Thanks for the comment!
Popin wheelies in *BOSS* mode only
Hmmm
Weeeeeeee!!!!
Ever worked in pipeline?
Nope
Lol, Go dig 8 inch gas line or 48 inch or larger RCP and see howuch that blade helps in tue back when the trench has fissures
I'd rather do the lean a little than a front flip into a hole
Make sure your level.
Yup
The popular yukon gold miner television series mister cam johnson had his dozer driver come to close range to the edge and it slid sideway's and rolled over repeatedly and i've seen that happen to full size excavator machine's as well and perhap's that would be a good future "what not to do'' topic to cover and the mini size version's as well of dozer's and excavator machine's and may be good safety information provided for those wanting to go work for those popular yukon gold miner television gold miner opperation's owner's.
You’re never supposed to dig over your drives so typically blade goes in front
Typically for large machines I agree, but for the smaller machines I think it is better to use that blade to push downward pressure behind you. But I think it comes down to your preference.
He's right this time mate again depends on what you are doing but this is a really good video
Well you said in the video it keeps you from lifting yourself up, in my opinion if you’re a good operator you never lift yourself up while digging unless you’re in super hard ground
And in the real world on hire mate when you have done 20mts of trench for the day and the other bloke has done 200 if your blade is behind you you have more stroke you get more done that idler drive motor myth is from back in the day when the old cats and katos there drive motors used to hang out you could acualty hit them later model machines not so much unless your on something that is 60t or larger does not hurt it and considering all your sprockets these days are a molding not machined they are cheap to replace it either replace your sprockets or shimm your idler carage either way they both need to be done they are wearing parts
The logic of digging over idlers isn’t to save sprockets, it’s to save drive motors.
Is this author still answering questions?
I have been an equipment operator instructor for 20 years. None of the manufacturers i have ever worked with recommended digging over the rear of the machine. Bad advice given here
I'd have to agree with you no clue why he would think that
The blade behind you is bullshit look at 3:17 as he lifts the boom it picks the back of the machine up and that's in soft ground you will find it a lot harder to dig like that rarther than the other way and you will protect the drives don't know why that just dosent apply for a smaller machine
Multiple ways to do it, it in those smaller machines I believe it’s better to use the blade behind you to push downward pressure. But again, totally understand wanting to protect the drives.
Pfft all these so called “experts” in the comment sections. As an operator of this machinery for 2 hours I can tell you straight up they’re wrong with the blade position. it gives more stability when it’s at the back. that’s what my trainer said anyway.
Thanks for the comment and support!
Famous internet youtube celery 😂😂😉
What about the golden rule of never dog over your drives. Dont make videos with statements of certainty because you are on some posts and you are right on others.
I wouldn't say that's necessarily a "golden rule". I think the difference with these smaller machines is they are rubber tracked which absorbs a lot of shock and those drives don't take nearly as much as a beating as the larger excavators. And with that said, I think blade placement behind on a mini-ex is the better practice for stability. But I also don't think there is ONE right way, so to each their own. Thanks for the comment!
@@HeavyMetalLearning Its a hard fast rule in excavator operations and from personal experience I've never had the need to have my blade behind me for more digging force. You will gain more break out power and lifting capacity with you blade in front of you and say your popping a rock or stump blade is definitely in front but in your defense for instance CAT even does state that a blade is better situated in the rear for more downward digging force but for me personally I'll keep my blade forward and re tool with a ripper shank or a breaker and this issue simply goes away. Guess the rule here is depends on what your situation is and what it I your trying to achieve.
@@HeavyMetalLearning I guess the next question is where do we establish the line. I own a 308 and a 315 both with steel tracks but also both with blades... now we have a conundrum 🤣
@@wgxinc Agree....I think there are different situations that call for different approaches. I appreciate you sharing your insights!
@@wgxinc Yeah, but I also wouldn't necessarily consider a 308 and definitely not a 315 as "mini" excavators. I think once you get up to machines that are over 10,000 lbs they are large enough to not need that downward force on a blade behind you. Just my 2 cents...
as a miner i've seen a vast difference between operating from construction. we dig down to bedrock, raise the bucket six inches to a foot, and remove overburden. then dig out the ore to be
loaded in the truck. construction operators are all about digging the hole quickly.
Interesting perspective....thanks for sharing!
Not entirely true as tlb operator I have to lend myself to any situation .... I.e , today I’m on infrastructure , tomorrow I’m digging sidewalks or digging footing or muck shifting .... either way you have to work to the situation not just get in and rip and tear
@@pastorkeri most bosses want the job done quickly. they don't care about gold, bones, etc.
Interesting training videos..I Luke watching them .. yet the guy seems to be a book trained operator.. or office operator/ trainer .. Reason I say that is all mini excavator with a blade the problem u have alot time is large clogs dirt ..rocks ..tree roots .. grass clogs ..always seem to appear from nowhere ..sitting right on top of the blade HYD RAM ...and as per his point ..I see alot mini excavator drivers they all ..always stop the cab on a angle ..WELL hello mate welcome to the real world . As the operator has regularly kick off the Hyd ram these clogs other will break Ur Hyd fittings ..or start a small leak that over 8 has will 1/2 empty Ur Hydraulic tank .. or worst still scatch Ur ram and damage a seal ... Hence why all mini excavator operator get off this way to easy clean any thing from behind the blade
Pick the tracks up when turning
Wouldn't make that a common practice, it has it's time and place but you shouldn't do that every time.
Jason I agree, it's pretty easy to spot a rookie operator by the way they always drive the machine like a tank.
If you have to turn sharply on a paved surface another trick is to fully extend your boom outward, it will transfer more weight to your idlers and you will turn more easily and with less wear on your rubber tracks
totally disagree when digging i would always have the blade in front where i could it takes the strain of the under carriage easy to pick up stones that are close as well and its more stable so i dont agree with what hes saying at all and i am very experienced when your on a slant your pulling to stuff to you you got to have the blade down
Thanks for the comment.... No single right way.
You videos are very informative, but one little thing that I dont care for in your more advanced videos is the couple minutes in the beginning you always state what the video is not. I dont see then need to explain in depth what the video isnt, just a short and sweet statement saying check out the other vido (X) to see how to operate, inspect etc...
It helps cut down on the pointless posts from pseudo experts (general dumbasses/autistic LARPers) who don't actually watch or understand the whole video and what it's aiming at, but are still compelled to post their 'expertise' on things that have nothing to do with the video because it wasn't pointed out in fine detail.
Appreciate the feedback.
YUP....well said
so right
:l
thanks for the comment
Ok
As an equipment operator Instructor for Texas A&M University for 12 years, I have never encouraged digging while facing rearward. The machine is designed to operate while oriented in the forward position. Proper digging techniques will alleviate any tendency of the machine to become unstable. My 2 cents.
Yay
The anticipation is building....
What not to do get in one with no proper training 😂
I always stretch out the arm when parking
Thanks for the comment!
If you stretch out the arm the benefit is especially in a smaller machine it
Makes it more difficult to crane up and steal, but you could potentially have someone drive into it. Don’t want to damage the boom
Tolga Matouk my way of looking at it is. It saves the rams from the weather and it being drive into wouldn’t be problem for me. Also on most machines you have to do that to get correct oil readings
stopping the machine and saying keep it square? crap some diggers dont have the tracks wider than the cab!!! so its the opposite stop the machine off centre so then you can steep onto the track my gods i should have his job !!!
You should
To be honest who even digs with the arm fully extended it’s just stupid
agree....to an extent...
Reaching out far in a lake to pull up muck is one reason. But I take small bites and use the smooth bucket so no worries.
Your full of it common sense smooth i operate in steep wet areas not flat ground could show you a thing or 2
Hmmmm....ok then
He didnt put his seatbelt back on lol
did so
Hey brother don't listen to these nitwits they all have something to prove
Lol...appreciate the love.
Typically