I have a 2009 Subaru Forester and it was stalling between 30-40. After watching this video and follow the instructions I can happily say it fixed my issue. My car is running soooo smoothly now and accelerating like it was 1 day old again. I’m happy, thanks for sharing your wisdom ☺️
Thanks for this tps reset process. It does indeed work. I would like to add that cleaning you intake throttle body and replacing your pcv valve at the same time is also good to do. Mine was indeed dirty and the small clearance around the throttle plate would not allow the necessary amount of air to pass through when it was closed at idle position.
thank you for the video. I disconnected the battery and started the timer. can't wait to finish the process and see a smile on my daughter's face when she sees it running like it should again.
this just worked on my 2009 forester. Clutch seized after 230, 000 km. My husband had it fixed with a new Subaru clutch kit through his mechanic - but it kept stalling. This after a $800 part and paying for a 6 hour job. No codes showing. Thanks for this video - it seems to have fixed it. Looks like witchcraft - but it seems to work.
Tried this on 06 Outback XT...reduced engine wobble at idle. I only thought it'd die once or twice but runs smooth now and smoothed out acceleration. Don't know if all the time is required but seems to work so can't complain. Thanks!
2008 impreza manual ej253. Fresh rebuild. Thank you so much. I'm a truck driver I have to disconnect my battery being out so long. It actually stalled on me at a red light I freaked out. Now I know what to do
Also instead of disconnecting for 20 minutes I've decided to disconnect both battery cables and hold then together for five minutes to de energize to whole system, then proceed !
Do you need to pull fuses for running lights to eliminate load while resetting? There's running/dash lights on as soon as engine is on. Also, opening door creates an electrical load (on light and dash sensor).
I would say those loads would be minimal and would not put enough draw on the alternator to affect engine rpm. Other than the actual headlights coming on, you should be fine. Thanks for the comment.
What if my electric driver side window has some sort of fault where i can hear the relay ticking away every now and then without me touching anything? Will this effect this procedure? I have noticed if the driver side window (the problematic window) is down it doesn't tick randomly
Smurf3000 I would say if it is not a big draw on the electrical system than it should be ok. Mainly things that affect engine load are the problem. When headlights and ac is running that puts a big load on the alternator which increases engine load. If the ac compressor is on or you move the the steering wheel, that will increase engine load. I think you should be fine.
I have tried this twice now with no luck. I replaced my valve cover gaskets and had to remove the battery to get into them. I replaced plugs, wires, and ignition coil while I was at it. The car will crank fine and idle a bit low. As soon as you go into gear it Sputters and dies. It’s at 07 2.5 na outback. Any advice is appreciated.
Judging by the sound of your symptoms, it sounds like your Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) is non responsive. That is what controls your idle and adjust it when loads are applied (putting in gear) or removed. I would check to make sure it is plugged in properly and check the pins inside the connector for corrosion and straightness. Next I would check the wiring. It should be three wires but I can be wrong. One wire should be a direct connection to ground, another should be a 5VDC refrence, and the other should go back to the computer. You may have to search online for the schematic. To me that sounds like it is your problem. You start it and it will idle but low, then when you go into gear (apply load) the engine dies because the IAC does not increase air to the engine. I hope this helps and let me know your result.
@@Bbernhardsr Thanks for the info! I started the process a third time. This time not opening the door, I rolled my window down and started and stopped the car by reaching in. I cleaned every top mounted sensor and electrical connection while I was waiting 30 minutes for the ecu to reset with a spray electrical cleaner. This time it worked! I just drove it for about an hour running errands with no issues. Thanks for the help guys!
I'm gonna do this tomorrow on my 2005 Impreza. I unhooked the battery, now I have to deal with car shutting off and terribly low idle. Hopefully this will work
I have 2006 Outback when I took it in for the airbag recall they also reset the idle. So Subaru must have a recall on this issue. They don't send out a letter so maybe a TSB? By disconnecting the battery you are resetting the vehicle computer. You would also want to press the brake pedal after that 20-minute battery disconnection as there may be some power left in the system. A lot of people are having an issue with is the car just dies as you are driving. The code is P2138, Throttle position sensor. Happens to me about every 6 months. You are driving or turning and the car just dies and seems to go into a limp home mode. I just turn off the ignition wait 10 to 20 seconds and restart everything is fine. Must be Gremlins in the car. Some people say you just disconnect and reconnect the gas petal connections. I will have to try that.
Hi, Did you solved the mistery with troble code P2138? Changed the relay, accelerator pedal, throttle body, nothing helped. Any suggestions? I have 2005 subaru outback, 2.5l, menual.
So....I've done the relearn and it's fine for a few days and then starts to running rough again - nearly stalling at every slow down or stop. Any thoughts? What else should I be looking at?
There are a few things that could be causing it. It could be a vacuum leak, it could be a EGR valve that is not closing all the way, it could be an Idle Air Control valve (IAC) not functioning properly. I suppose I would start by checking for vacuum leaks. Then you could move onto checking the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve. The simplest way I can think of to do that would be to do the recalibration and get it running good then simply unplug the EGR for a few days to see if that fixes it. It will cause the check engine light to come on with an open circut code but should not affect drivability. If the EGR is the problem often times it is just carbon deposits cause it to hang up and a good cleaning should take care of it. If that is not it than it is possible the IAC valve could be sticking. Over time the computer looses track of where it is in relation to where it is supposed to be. Cleaning might help it but unless you have s scan tool you can not see the live data to see what it is actually doing. Also check your throttle plate and see if it is physically dirty. A dirty throttle plate will cause idling issues. They make throttle body cleaner that is just for cleaning the throttle plate. Lastly get a can of Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner and follow the directions to cleaning it properly. That is what I would start with. Hope it helps.
@@johnwilson2456 I am posting a amazon link to what it looks like depending on what year your subaru is. www.amazon.com/dp/B07QTJ9YWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CCWIFbC5DY2DM
@@johnwilson2456if you can’t find the IAC it’s inside of your throttle body. Which means you can’t clean it. You have to replace the whole throttle body. Check the MAF, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil pack, Injectors, vacuum leak, EGR, clogged catalytic converter, bad 02 sensor, etc… before spending the money on anything. All of these can affect the idle.
I just tried the ... unhook the battery for 30 seconds, step on the brake routine. It did not work at all. car stalled out, which it never did before. I will try your method, when the blizzard stops. 2009 forester.
My 06 Impreza starts up from cold start just fine no problem but once the engine is warm and I turn it off and then I go to turn it back on it will crank and reach about 1000 rpm and then bog down and die and it will continue to do that until the engine gets cool about 15 minutes later and then it will start just fine again. Would that be the TPS?
You would need a scan tool for that. I am thinking maybe air temp sensor in the air intake. Need to hook up a scan tool and look at live data from the sensors.
Latasha Bachus all I can say is you can try. That is a big gap in age and I am not sure that the ecm programming is the same. It wouldn't hurt anything to try
is this method legit? What's the theory behind this? Is it really the ECU has such function? Regardless, I may give my legacy a go, hope it works. Thanks for the upload!
Eric Han it seems to me that once the ECU forgets the values for where the throttle position should be then it can not compensate correctly for predicted engine loads. For example I can tell on my subaru that when the ac compressor is about to engage a few milliseconds before it comes on the ecu increases throttle a couple of percent. Lets say that normal idiling is 4% throttle, when it is time to engage the ac the computer puts the throttle to 5 or 6% to compensate for the extra drag on the engine. It is the same thing when your battery is discharged or you have a lot of things turned on in the car and that makes the alternator work hard wich in turn puts more drag on the engine. So when the computer forgets that 4% throttle is what is needed to maintain smooth idle, it has no starting point at wich to add throttle. Lets say that the ecu has forgot and it is only at 2% throttle and the ac comes on, it knows that it needs to add about 2% throttle for the ac but that will only put the throttle at 4% which still isnt enough. That is the reason by which I understand it of how the subarus learn and maintain idle.
And as far as being legit, lol I have no idea. I do know that I copied this method off of someone else on the internet and it has worked every single time I have done it. Other methods on the internet say shorter times, some methods include removing your throttle body and intake manifold completely from your engine. I just know this works and that is why I shared it.
Does anyone know if this will help with throttle surging When driving, if I come to a stop or push the clutch in, I’ll get a rpm increase, as high as 3,000rpm, it sits there for a few seconds and then drops. If I tap the throttle it goes back down. This comes and goes but it’s been happening for a long time now.
@@Bbernhardsr Gave it a shot. Ran the process and it smoothed out the idle that night. The next morning the car had throttle surge again. Unfortunately it didn't solve the issue long term for me.
@@Bbernhardsr No, no codes or check engine lights coming up. Symptoms come and go, sometimes they’ll even be set off by turning the heat or AC on. Other times they’ll come up with no change in anything. Found another video where someone said it’s the gas pedal throttle sensor and to replace the pedal assembly.
@@g.z.9920 If I remember correctly you may want to check your IAC (idle air control) valve. I believe they can become carboned up and slow to respond along with the EGR valve. I would attempt to clean those with brake parts cleaner first before you invest in parts. There should be some good videos on how to clean those.
@@Bbernhardsr because you don't want to start up or idle the car with load, furthermore when the steering is off centre the power steering switch is in on position so the ecu will reckon that is a load, apparently the pump is under load when the steering wheel is turned.
@@dingpongchi632 the only load on the steering wheel is when you move it after the vehicle is running. There is no switch on the power steering pump and the ecu is not monitoring the steering angle, at least not on this year vehicle.
@@Bbernhardsr as I know when the steering is off centre, one of the valve in the steering Rack will closed, so it will constantly build up pressure on the pump so as the engine, you can tell by hook up a pressure gauge on the System. Pressure will be lower at in centre position.
@@dingpongchi632 I can't dispute you on that as I am not sure. I do know however that I have watched engine load values through a scan tool. I can see load values go up when the steering wheel is moved. The computer then responds to the load by opening the Idle Air Control valve to compensate. It does the same any time any load is put on the engine. I have not noticed any difference if the wheel is straight or turned. To me what you are saying does not make sense because the only load should be only when the wheel is being turned. As soon as the wheel has stopped turning, the load is off of the power steering pump. Perhaps something is wrong with your pump? If the load is only off of the pump when the wheel is in the center position, it seems to me that the pump would overheat and fail prematurely.
I think this is what I need, Ive done tps, cps, knock sensor, plugs wires and coil, it starts fine idles fine for a few mins then it cuts low and if i press the throttle it tries to die b4 surging. What happens if it stalls b4 the 10 mins
Sorry I guess I need to be more specific. When I said that people need to make sure no loads are on the alternator I mean heavy loads. A little tiny 7 watt bulb is not going to make a difference on the amperage draw on the alternator. Now if you had the headlights on, the blower on, the ac clutch engaged, that would equate to a substantial amperage draw which would put drag on the engine.
@@Bbernhardsr on throttle is gas sencor so what u do is start car for a sec then turn off go unplug that start car again for a sec and put sencor back and rmps be normal
I have a 2009 Subaru Forester and it was stalling between 30-40. After watching this video and follow the instructions I can happily say it fixed my issue. My car is running soooo smoothly now and accelerating like it was 1 day old again. I’m happy, thanks for sharing your wisdom ☺️
Thanks for this tps reset process. It does indeed work.
I would like to add that cleaning you intake throttle body and replacing your pcv valve at the same time is also good to do.
Mine was indeed dirty and the small clearance around the throttle plate would not allow the necessary amount of air to pass through when it was closed at idle position.
I am glad it helped!
thank you for the video. I disconnected the battery and started the timer. can't wait to finish the process and see a smile on my daughter's face when she sees it running like it should again.
And it worked beautifully. thanks again!
@@robertharvey1698 did it change the first time it stTtef
I spent three days messing with my Legacy GT trying to figure out why it wouldn't idle did this and it works thank you.
Thanks!! Worked for my 2006 Outback 3.0 H6 Boxer. Hats off to you
Thats great. Now we know it will work on that engine as well. Thanks for the comment.
this just worked on my 2009 forester. Clutch seized after 230, 000 km. My husband had it fixed with a new Subaru clutch kit through his mechanic - but it kept stalling. This after a $800 part and paying for a 6 hour job. No codes showing.
Thanks for this video - it seems to have fixed it. Looks like witchcraft - but it seems to work.
Julie Armstrong thanks
Well, your method worked just fine. Back to normal. Thx.
Jay Newman Im glad it straightened out.
Thanks worked on my 06 one
Tried this on 06 Outback XT...reduced engine wobble at idle. I only thought it'd die once or twice but runs smooth now and smoothed out acceleration. Don't know if all the time is required but seems to work so can't complain. Thanks!
These steps worked for me. 2009 outback 2.5L SOHC. I would suggest using the timer for the intervals.
Glad it worked for you.
Thanks for this. Worked like a charm for my 2010 Forester.
Glad it worked for you
2008 impreza manual ej253. Fresh rebuild. Thank you so much. I'm a truck driver I have to disconnect my battery being out so long. It actually stalled on me at a red light I freaked out. Now I know what to do
Also instead of disconnecting for 20 minutes I've decided to disconnect both battery cables and hold then together for five minutes to de energize to whole system, then proceed !
Do you need to pull fuses for running lights to eliminate load while resetting? There's running/dash lights on as soon as engine is on. Also, opening door creates an electrical load (on light and dash sensor).
I would say those loads would be minimal and would not put enough draw on the alternator to affect engine rpm. Other than the actual headlights coming on, you should be fine. Thanks for the comment.
@@Bbernhardsr this is helpful. i had the same question.
What if my electric driver side window has some sort of fault where i can hear the relay ticking away every now and then without me touching anything? Will this effect this procedure? I have noticed if the driver side window (the problematic window) is down it doesn't tick randomly
Smurf3000 I would say if it is not a big draw on the electrical system than it should be ok. Mainly things that affect engine load are the problem. When headlights and ac is running that puts a big load on the alternator which increases engine load. If the ac compressor is on or you move the the steering wheel, that will increase engine load. I think you should be fine.
I have tried this twice now with no luck. I replaced my valve cover gaskets and had to remove the battery to get into them. I replaced plugs, wires, and ignition coil while I was at it. The car will crank fine and idle a bit low. As soon as you go into gear it Sputters and dies. It’s at 07 2.5 na outback. Any advice is appreciated.
Judging by the sound of your symptoms, it sounds like your Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) is non responsive. That is what controls your idle and adjust it when loads are applied (putting in gear) or removed. I would check to make sure it is plugged in properly and check the pins inside the connector for corrosion and straightness. Next I would check the wiring. It should be three wires but I can be wrong. One wire should be a direct connection to ground, another should be a 5VDC refrence, and the other should go back to the computer. You may have to search online for the schematic. To me that sounds like it is your problem. You start it and it will idle but low, then when you go into gear (apply load) the engine dies because the IAC does not increase air to the engine. I hope this helps and let me know your result.
@@Bbernhardsr Thanks for the info! I started the process a third time. This time not opening the door, I rolled my window down and started and stopped the car by reaching in. I cleaned every top mounted sensor and electrical connection while I was waiting 30 minutes for the ecu to reset with a spray electrical cleaner. This time it worked! I just drove it for about an hour running errands with no issues. Thanks for the help guys!
@@brantleyrobinson33 Awsome! Glad it worked out.
hello good day, ive tried this method but sadly did not do anything. thanks tho!
Did you have a blinking AT Oil temp light prior to this relearn method?
jamminwithjRokk I did. I replaced my thrills potion sensor the at oil temp went away
yes
Same for a 2007 Impreza 2.5L?
I'm gonna do this tomorrow on my 2005 Impreza. I unhooked the battery, now I have to deal with car shutting off and terribly low idle. Hopefully this will work
Hopefully it will, it should. Always worked for me
I'm having the same issue on my 05 impreza and this has not worked
I have 2006 Outback when I took it in for the airbag recall they also reset the idle. So Subaru must have a recall on this issue. They don't send out a letter so maybe a TSB? By disconnecting the battery you are resetting the vehicle computer. You would also want to press the brake pedal after that 20-minute battery disconnection as there may be some power left in the system. A lot of people are having an issue with is the car just dies as you are driving. The code is P2138, Throttle position sensor. Happens to me about every 6 months. You are driving or turning and the car just dies and seems to go into a limp home mode. I just turn off the ignition wait 10 to 20 seconds and restart everything is fine. Must be Gremlins in the car. Some people say you just disconnect and reconnect the gas petal connections. I will have to try that.
Hi,
Did you solved the mistery with troble code P2138? Changed the relay, accelerator pedal, throttle body, nothing helped. Any suggestions? I have 2005 subaru outback, 2.5l, menual.
So....I've done the relearn and it's fine for a few days and then starts to running rough again - nearly stalling at every slow down or stop. Any thoughts? What else should I be looking at?
There are a few things that could be causing it. It could be a vacuum leak, it could be a EGR valve that is not closing all the way, it could be an Idle Air Control valve (IAC) not functioning properly.
I suppose I would start by checking for vacuum leaks. Then you could move onto checking the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve. The simplest way I can think of to do that would be to do the recalibration and get it running good then simply unplug the EGR for a few days to see if that fixes it. It will cause the check engine light to come on with an open circut code but should not affect drivability. If the EGR is the problem often times it is just carbon deposits cause it to hang up and a good cleaning should take care of it. If that is not it than it is possible the IAC valve could be sticking. Over time the computer looses track of where it is in relation to where it is supposed to be. Cleaning might help it but unless you have s scan tool you can not see the live data to see what it is actually doing. Also check your throttle plate and see if it is physically dirty. A dirty throttle plate will cause idling issues. They make throttle body cleaner that is just for cleaning the throttle plate. Lastly get a can of Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner and follow the directions to cleaning it properly.
That is what I would start with. Hope it helps.
@@Bbernhardsr thanks! I haven't been able to locate the IAC on this vehicle so I'll start with the EGR.
Thanks!
@@johnwilson2456 I am posting a amazon link to what it looks like depending on what year your subaru is.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07QTJ9YWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CCWIFbC5DY2DM
@@johnwilson2456if you can’t find the IAC it’s inside of your throttle body. Which means you can’t clean it. You have to replace the whole throttle body. Check the MAF, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil pack, Injectors, vacuum leak, EGR, clogged catalytic converter, bad 02 sensor, etc… before spending the money on anything. All of these can affect the idle.
I just tried the ... unhook the battery for 30 seconds, step on the brake routine. It did not work at all. car stalled out, which it never did before. I will try your method, when the blizzard stops. 2009 forester.
Jay Newman let us know how it works
My 06 Impreza starts up from cold start just fine no problem but once the engine is warm and I turn it off and then I go to turn it back on it will crank and reach about 1000 rpm and then bog down and die and it will continue to do that until the engine gets cool about 15 minutes later and then it will start just fine again. Would that be the TPS?
You would need a scan tool for that. I am thinking maybe air temp sensor in the air intake. Need to hook up a scan tool and look at live data from the sensors.
@@Bbernhardsr ok thanks man
I followed your instructions but without any success, any suggestions . Thanks.
Sounds like your problems may be more severe than a simple relearn. Do you have a check engine light on?
Will this work on a 2002 forester
Latasha Bachus all I can say is you can try. That is a big gap in age and I am not sure that the ecm programming is the same. It wouldn't hurt anything to try
is this method legit? What's the theory behind this? Is it really the ECU has such function? Regardless, I may give my legacy a go, hope it works. Thanks for the upload!
Eric Han it seems to me that once the ECU forgets the values for where the throttle position should be then it can not compensate correctly for predicted engine loads. For example I can tell on my subaru that when the ac compressor is about to engage a few milliseconds before it comes on the ecu increases throttle a couple of percent. Lets say that normal idiling is 4% throttle, when it is time to engage the ac the computer puts the throttle to 5 or 6% to compensate for the extra drag on the engine. It is the same thing when your battery is discharged or you have a lot of things turned on in the car and that makes the alternator work hard wich in turn puts more drag on the engine. So when the computer forgets that 4% throttle is what is needed to maintain smooth idle, it has no starting point at wich to add throttle. Lets say that the ecu has forgot and it is only at 2% throttle and the ac comes on, it knows that it needs to add about 2% throttle for the ac but that will only put the throttle at 4% which still isnt enough. That is the reason by which I understand it of how the subarus learn and maintain idle.
And as far as being legit, lol I have no idea. I do know that I copied this method off of someone else on the internet and it has worked every single time I have done it. Other methods on the internet say shorter times, some methods include removing your throttle body and intake manifold completely from your engine. I just know this works and that is why I shared it.
Does anyone know if this will help with throttle surging
When driving, if I come to a stop or push the clutch in, I’ll get a rpm increase, as high as 3,000rpm, it sits there for a few seconds and then drops.
If I tap the throttle it goes back down.
This comes and goes but it’s been happening for a long time now.
It is definitely worth a try.
@@Bbernhardsr Gave it a shot. Ran the process and it smoothed out the idle that night. The next morning the car had throttle surge again. Unfortunately it didn't solve the issue long term for me.
@@g.z.9920 do you have any check engine lights on?
@@Bbernhardsr No, no codes or check engine lights coming up.
Symptoms come and go, sometimes they’ll even be set off by turning the heat or AC on. Other times they’ll come up with no change in anything.
Found another video where someone said it’s the gas pedal throttle sensor and to replace the pedal assembly.
@@g.z.9920 If I remember correctly you may want to check your IAC (idle air control) valve. I believe they can become carboned up and slow to respond along with the EGR valve. I would attempt to clean those with brake parts cleaner first before you invest in parts. There should be some good videos on how to clean those.
when does this need to be done?
When the idle becomes messed up from unhooking the battery. If your car car stalls when you stop.
The steering wheel should have to in straight position before you pull the fuse off
Why is that?
@@Bbernhardsr because you don't want to start up or idle the car with load, furthermore when the steering is off centre the power steering switch is in on position so the ecu will reckon that is a load, apparently the pump is under load when the steering wheel is turned.
@@dingpongchi632 the only load on the steering wheel is when you move it after the vehicle is running. There is no switch on the power steering pump and the ecu is not monitoring the steering angle, at least not on this year vehicle.
@@Bbernhardsr as I know when the steering is off centre, one of the valve in the steering Rack will closed, so it will constantly build up pressure on the pump so as the engine, you can tell by hook up a pressure gauge on the System. Pressure will be lower at in centre position.
@@dingpongchi632 I can't dispute you on that as I am not sure. I do know however that I have watched engine load values through a scan tool. I can see load values go up when the steering wheel is moved. The computer then responds to the load by opening the Idle Air Control valve to compensate. It does the same any time any load is put on the engine. I have not noticed any difference if the wheel is straight or turned. To me what you are saying does not make sense because the only load should be only when the wheel is being turned. As soon as the wheel has stopped turning, the load is off of the power steering pump. Perhaps something is wrong with your pump?
If the load is only off of the pump when the wheel is in the center position, it seems to me that the pump would overheat and fail prematurely.
This had never worked for me
hi, pls write all doing action' pls'
Sanchir Davaanym just follow the video
I think this is what I need, Ive done tps, cps, knock sensor, plugs wires and coil, it starts fine idles fine for a few mins then it cuts low and if i press the throttle it tries to die b4 surging. What happens if it stalls b4 the 10 mins
You had the door open with the dome light on.
Sorry I guess I need to be more specific. When I said that people need to make sure no loads are on the alternator I mean heavy loads. A little tiny 7 watt bulb is not going to make a difference on the amperage draw on the alternator. Now if you had the headlights on, the blower on, the ac clutch engaged, that would equate to a substantial amperage draw which would put drag on the engine.
dude just reconnect sencor
What?
@@Bbernhardsr on throttle is gas sencor so what u do is start car for a sec then turn off go unplug that start car again for a sec and put sencor back and rmps be normal