R Hopkins sesees 44sszsdxw address reassessed and and s4se44xssw÷ eeededeee÷seen you @have see me the other day and I love you so much so much for when time time time to time you time you encrusted me e÷is 4 is 44sszsdxw time time 43étime you entruste3s344 refrigerated refrigerated d dme with mom they are not
@@abdalqadr1 burp the cooling system. Unscrew the cap on radiator turn on car put front end on jack in air keep car idling at 2000 to 3000 rpms. Then wait to see bubble's. Then add antifreeze slowly. Keep repeating this process till no bubbles. There is air somewhere stuck in the system. Usually takes about an hour. Wait till there's no bubbles and can top off radiator. 👍 Worked for me on two cars. Civic and accord. Let me know if it worked.
He is a self-reliant DYI car owner who tried all his best to save money in repairing his car! I appreciate his knowledge he shared to us despite his chinese accent. Thank you.
Thank you for this excellent troubleshooting video. I really appreciated how you included all the things you tried whether or not it worked. I like the way you think.
honda is well known for this problem solution is easy, open your throttle body and clean it with carby cleaner and most important part of cleaning clean the idle air control valve which is at the bottom of throttle body attached to it with two bolts thats where the problem is will fix it straight away.
If the issue is under a certain threshold or the sensor for that system is bad , then there won't be a code. It all depends on the "health" of your computer & the various sensors. Variables as they're called. Every vehicle is different because they're all driven differently. All things being equal, a part will degrade in a certain way & can be fixed using the prescribed methods available for that repair. All things are not equal. That's why there are mechanics. If every vehicle behaved in exactly the same way, then a robot could fix it. Sooo, yeah. Plus older cars (this is an 04', but I'm talking about pre-96' in USA) use the older system of obd 1. Making modern scan tools tricky to use. Even with the modern obd2, you still need to find the specific issue, as most scanners that normal folk have won't pinpoint the problem & you need to trace down the failure by process of elimination. But, it's easier to act like an authority on UA-cam now isn't it? Especially in the comments section. If you know better, then make a video showing everyone else how to fix the problem. Put yourself out there & subject yourself to all of the web/cell warriors on here who spew hate & stupidity because they have nothing going on in life or just hate themselves & wanna make others feel as shitty as they do. If you know better, start a channel & make videos. I'll watch them, because I'm always hunting for the correct info for any given subject. But I won't be a turd unless you are.
You made my day! Very glad I could help. You can root cause a lot of car problems easily, but the idling problem is not easy to determine which one is actually the real problem. Appreciate your links.
Ignore the people that are ignorant and mean. Hey at least you are trying to help that’s more than I can say for a lot of people. Thank you for trying and thank you for your video.
Understand this is an older video. But this man is still providing people with help they may be troubled with, and may utilize his (monetary,knowledge,skills) to fix their issue. Props to you. And will subscribe!
Never seen so many certified You Tube mechanics in all my life. If guys know everything possible about cars why are you watching a video like this ? I thought it was quite informative and covered all the bases. Not every car is going to need the exact same repair to rectify the situation. The video shows all the different possibilities, that's it. Excellent video by the way.
Thanks a lot for taking the time making the video, explaining the possible causes with your knowledge and experience. Using a sink tube to test possible air leak and hearing hissing sound is very creative and easy to do. Thanks again for trying to help. Keep up the great work.
Hello again Everyone! I finally was able to fix my idle surge issue I had on my 1995 Mitsubishi Galant 4g63 engine. The idle surge was cause by the IPS or idle position switch located on top of the throttle body, it just needed a thorough cleaning and a minimum adjustment. Hope this will be of any help to anyone.
I had some what same issue with my mazda 3 1.6L . a drive by wire mechanism using on TB.. my issue was idle is super perfect till i put the gear to 1st 2nd or reverse and while releasing the clutch the RPM go down to near zero and stalling and if it touched the zero then car will shut off with CEL on and off.. if i press the pedel and maintain the rpm to 1000 then no issues.(no codes found on scanner).. every time this occurs when try to move from stop /signals or climbing hill.. i did 4 months of R&D on different forums and YT then cleaned MAF sensor, Throttle Body, adjusted accelerator cable and finally IAC Value etc.. it works fine for 2days and the problem came back... unexpectedly i fond this guy doing something with screwdriver near /over the TB.. so my mind says to go and check TB for any screw which i didn't noticed yet... after deep checking i found a small * screw on top of TB is completely hidden by dirt particles... i did research on google abot that and turned clockwise to close it completely and counted the turnes.. then turn back to normal position and turnd HALF anticlockwise.. BOOOMM.. i went to four mec shops for fixing this issue while doing R&D but they didn't find the issue and said more than £500 for full checking and repairing.... i saved the money and learned many... (that screw is for idle air adjust screw and the hole inside is blocked by carbon deposits ... So Closing it completely and turn back to normal makes a clearance on it and it gives more air to the engine for smooth idling.. now i can hear a very low air buzzing sound from intake manifold(not a vaccum leak)) now no stalling, no hard gear shift issues.. i hope this will help some one for sure.. 💡💡💡
If the rpm fluctuating just reset your ECM by disconnecting negative battery cable then slowly press the foot brake 5 times and then reconnect the negative terminal to the battery. The computer will reset everything problem in your car. Start the vehicle then your code P0507 will disappeared.
yes reset will clear the error code, sometimes a few days later the error code may appear again if the problem is not resolved. Thank you for taking the time to share.
i have 2001 1.8 holden astra/vauxhall,opal and the Idle was Fluctuating and the car only drove if you could keep the revs up and then would die and not start until it had a rest. while spraying the throttle body and surounding area with carby cleaner the idle got better, the problem for me was behind the throttle body there is a hose plugged in to the throttle body and underneath that there is bit of hose at a 90 degree angle whitch had come off and was sucking air i pluged it back in and that fixed my problem, hope this helps someone.
RPM not steady can be many reasons. Since gas & air don't mix well, it could be gas path, or it could be air path or it could be the control of the mix. Most common is air path, so check the air leak first since it is the easiest to do. Once you eliminate the easy checks, you can then checks the control component of the gas-air. The coolant/radiator affect the control system indirectly, so check other easy tasks first.
On Saturday 16/7/2022 about 5pm a client called me to his abode. When I got there he told me that he observed when he was about to drive into his compound that oil was leaking in his car. Although, it took me some minutes to troubleshoot the problem because the oil spattered excessively to many accessories of the car like alternator, power steering pump, fan belt, TPS, AC compressor, etc. I searched for the leak and finally saw what was causing it. I noticed that it was because of the CKP oil seal at the pulley side/front of engine. It was late hence auto parts store closed that was why I didn't replace the seal that day but encouraged them not to drive the car until I replace the seal. On Monday 18/7/2022 I changed the seal and the leaking stopped and the idled fine but I only observed that few minutes to avoid catastrophic outcome to the engine because the engine oil level was low. After replacement of the seal the fan belt cutoff and I replaced it as well. They didn't drive the car until Tuesday when the went to the replace the oil. But before they moved they called that the whole car was vibrating. I was unable to reach out to them so I told them I will meet them on Wednesday 20/7/2022. I got there yesterday as promised and noticed a severe vibration at idle which wasn't there when I left on Monday. I scanned the car and retrieved some codes that I will upload. Among those codes, I was particularly focused on the P0016, P0113, P0123, and P2135 although I verified the ignition codes and saw that it fired very fine. As a result, I cleaned the CMP sensor of the 2 banks and installed them back but to no prevail, I still noticed a vibration. I pulled the CMP sensor again within 2 minutes of idling and noticed that it was dirty again. This time I had to pull VVTI solenoid valve of both banks alongside the CMP sensor and cleaned them. In addition, I used a very clean dry cloth and insert into the CMP sensor hole to properly clean the inside of the engine. In the process, I also noticed that the injection head where the TPS sensor is tightened was very dirty as when a carbon and oil are mixed together so I cleaned that too using a tooth brush. At last, when I put everything back to it's respective places the idle was very nice because the car didn't vibrate again! However, there is a problem that I want you to help me out with. It's a high rev in RPM to about 1.4 at idle. I Before I left there yesterday I scanned the car again and found only the P0123 and P2135. Please note that this two codes appeared only after cleaning the CMP sensor, VVT solenoid valve and the injection head. It didn't appear before the cleaning of those accessories. When I started the car it rev high from about 1.25 to 1.4 RPM and remains there. The RPM doesn't go up and down. When I accelerated the car it rev very fine. I also noticed that the TPS connector was slightly broken, it didn't fit in very well and didn't hear a snap sound when connected to the TPS module. But whenever I pulled the TPS connector completely out when the car was idling there was a great reduction in RPM as if the car wants to stall so I immediately connect it back slightly and noticed that the RPM goes down and remains at 1000 RPM. The car owner even noticed the reduction in RPM, stood up and moved to me and said that that's the way the car should idle. But if is still connected at that place and switch off the car it idles to 1.4 RPM and remains there until I repeat the unplugging of the TPS connector process. I tested the connector with my test light and noticed 2 ground out of the 6pins (one of the ground was very dim the other was bright) at the pin connector that illuminated the dim light when tester was at battery positive. I also noticed a dim light when I checked for current with my test light now hucked up to ground and ignition switch activated to ON position. Please help me, how do I permanently solve this car problem?
miner123454321 Before taking it to get checked anywhere I would do 3 simple things that you can do yourself with a few UA-cam videos. First clean the MAF sensor, most likely isn't the cause but it's always good to clean anyways and it's really easy. Make sure to use specific MAF cleaner or electric wire cleaner as they leave no residue. Next two things come hand in hand. Remove your main air intake and clean out your throttle body (also while you have it removed you might as well clean the idle air control valve which is attached to the TB anyways. Watch some videos or message me if you would like some help. It is a lot simpler than it sounds, just make sure you Do NOT move the butterfly valve when doing so. Also after you're done it's probably best to disconnect the battery for a bit and do the relearn process shown in the video, or just drive it around a bit so it recollect data. Hope this helps
You don't have to mess around with hoses, brake cleaner or propane. Just spray the intake with water vapor. You'll notice if you have a vacuum leak... But as mentioned before in previous comment. You have a DTC for your idle air control valve. That rubbish little scan tool will not help you any further that's for sure. Although Autel has some good diagnostic tools. If you buy one I'd say buy at least one that captures live data.And someone mentioned Scotty Kilmer here. All my respect for him. But if you're interested in some real diagnostics check out ScannerDanner.....
Thanks so much for the video! I just cleaned the EGR passage in my engine to clear trouble code P0401 in my 1999 Accord. This involved the removal of the throttle body and i was not aware of the PCM Idle Learn Procedure. I was wondering what went wrong until i saw your video and applied the procedure.
What did you try? Are you saying that you have already replaced the IAC valve and yet you still have the problem? Since so many things can affect the idle, and it is hard to know which one is causing the problem, thus I would start with the cheapest and easiest to eliminate the possibilities.
There is a sensor on the steering rack that speeds the engine up when moving steering at tickover to prevent extra stress from stalling engine. My Audi did this and it did not register on any diagnostics. The steering sensor on the rack was faulty so sent input to the CPU to speed up and slow down or just tickover erratically.
mine was the cold idle valve and the warm idle screw was set at to high idle. the computer will fight the high idle and try to lower it thus the idle will go up and down.
Yes, agree, code reader is not that expensive and it will narrow down your scope of search if you car generates a code. However when you have idle speed problem, codes may not be generated. So you still need old fashioned tests.
Great video. Thanks Corg. I have this issue after cleaning the air intake manifold, so will apparently need to do this re-learn procedure. But I also replaced my radiator cap, so do I need to do the burp on the coolant system with the cap off? Could get messy, yes?
Hunting idle = vacuum leak, almost every time;). Found one on my new car - PCV valve had failed, constant wrong-way vacuum caused a hose to collapse and shred.
Thanks, pal for bringing back a long lost solution used years ago. Shops have gone to $5,000 computers instead of a $5.00 plastic tube. I love the old true saying, "KISS", keep it simple stupid and stop ripping the public off by big dealerships by using over sophisticated equipment.
Thanks for the video. The coolant certainly needs changing after 120,000 miles but I fail to see the connection with the idle speed. I would suspect the IAC valve as a more likely cause.
There are so many causes, you should eliminate them one by one starting with the easiest and those that you have to do as normal maintenance anyway. And yes, the engine rev is controlled by the computer. And the computer takes inputs from many sensors including the temperature, which may be effected by the coolant.
I just finished the idle problem on my car...because of your tips and tricks on finding some leaks on the hose....it cause me a lot on my mechanics to find the problem and solution until he tried to bypass the small EGR on the return fuel line...that minimise the problem however the consequence I've got a idle that sit on 1500. I decided to return it to the line and do the stuff by my self...I've check and clean IAC, TPS, throttle body, and EGR but did not resolved the problem. Untill I've watch your video..afternoon watching the video I immediately went to my car and re checked everything including the hoses and follow your tips I sprayed a carb cleaner on the hoses where I've found a unnoticeable cracked on the hose of hydrobox going to to the throttle body...that's where I've find the problem and fix it. The idle of my car returned into normal at 800...thanks so much...:)
I have an old 1995 Mitsubishi 2.0 and has the exact same problem it always goes away as soon as the car gets to a certain/driving temperature I already performed maintenance like cleaning/replacing filters spark plugs AIC and MAF sensors you name it! with no luck what so ever, I truly believe that this is the exact same problem that is affecting my car I'll definitely look up into it and will be letting you know, you did and outstanding job doing this video taking every single thing into consideration and I thank you for that, you are a kind smart man. Greetings from Venezuela S.A
yes, search the components along both the fuel and air paths and always test or replace the cheapest and easiest components first, you never know you may get lucky with replacing the easiest parts.
Dear CorgLLC, My Honda Accord, December 2004, 2.4 iVTEC was in parking for > 1 month. After starting the engine I noticed the RPM surging between 1000 & 2000. 70,000 km logged & there is no maintenance alarm. Does the coolant flush & radiator cap gasket replacement apply to the mentioned model? I would be very happy if you respond. Your information & video is really great. Thanks in advance.
first thing I would check is the Idle Air Control valve. Usually this is the problem. And once you get to clean it the idle would return to a normal stable running.
I have a honda accord same model same issue same everything hoping one of these solutions will fix it. If it dont fix it I still want to say that this asian man is a great guy to get on youtube and try and teach people with issues. If you dont think what he did was anything other than great then move on to a different video. This man has my respect and hands down is a better mechanic than half you thinking you are.
Thank you very much for your positive comment, this is one of the best comments I have seen in a while, there are more good people than bad in the world
My 06 chevy monte is doing this. When idling, the rpms fluctuate, car feels like it wants to cut off, or it actually does cut off. Im scared to stop at lights because of this lol it will START RIGHT BACK UP NO PROBLEM, but if i idle for too long, it will cut off or act like it wants to
yes, there could be many different things that contribute to the problem. So just start with the easiest to test, eliminate the potential causes one by one
I got a 94 Honda Accord LX 2.2 and mine is doing the same thing as he is,, every chance I get I try looking over when the weather is good cold right now, but this weekend taking up my brother's place he's got a garage see what we come up with.. I know I have to be something simple I don't have no check light come on..
You need to replace your idle air control valve no matter how much you clean the idle, still same problem, because idle air control valve is electronic, maybe working for few days, idle is going up in down, but still came back again.So if I were you do not wasting your time to find another solution of using your code computer checking component, buy a new one or after market. I am telling you.
+Arnie Arnieluv yes sometime you can't clean the IAC anymore, but a lot of time when it's dirty, the small "door" does not open freely, thus cleaning would help you for a while. Cleaning is useful if you don't intend to keep the car for too long. If you have to eventually replace the IAC anyway, you may simply replace now rather than a year later.
Jerry, Currently I am doing a few things for living: design/architect/implement computer chips; internet domains; website & social networks. I have one Doctorate degree in electrical, one Master degree in mechanical so I have broad interests.
Bee Jay.. what is important is analytical knowledge, which with his background you can see why he is better than the average blow job mechanics in USA. Usually if you have an engineering background or person who can think like an engineer, you tend to look at the problem in a different way and workout a step by step, like a flow chart method to find solutions. Having said that many \Asians - Chinese and Indians do not believe in spending money unnecessarily and they try and see if they can solve the problem by themsleves, this is in their blood, coz not everything comes easy in their lives like for the people live in the Western world, also availability of componants /parts are not readily available in most Asian countries and their income levels are not so good, hence they become cleverer in working out problems to find solutions etc... thats why the Asians are always better than the above average westerner in many things if you give them equal oppertunities
Right after checking for vacuum leaks, I would have removed the air filter to see if it was too dirty. BTW, I'm surprised you didn't check the Idler Air Control valve.
Pretty cool! My Accord is starting to idle a little rough with 150k miles. The fans seem to run fine and the engine temp seems normal so I decided to order a new (OEM) radiator cap and thermostat as preventive maintenance. Thanks!!
yes, if you decided to keep the car then sooner or later you may have to replace some questionable components, replacing them now only disadvantages you with early payment but eliminates your anxiety and make the overall system safer.
Thanks for the vid. I had similar issues with my VW panel van and found air leaks on the intake where the two halves meet. The rubber seals were ripped, most probably during reassembly after rebuild. I have been putting it off for months now and finally got around to sorting it out. Generic parts cost R400 ($30) for four pieces of rubber, which think is ridiculous. So I bought a piece of water hose of a similar diameter (slightly smaller) and cut four 1 inch pieces to as seals. Worked a charm after putting a slight bevel on the end that needed to slide into the female side. There is still a very slight hissing coming from one of the seals and ironically its from one of the original OEM parts that was still in good condition. So essentially my make shift seals work better.
clean the throttle body and if check engine shows up take it to auto part like auto zone and they can connect it to their computer and tell you reason including miss fire of spark plugs which causes the same issue. miss fire or leak or throttle body .. on throttle body use throttle body cleaner not carburetor and dont move it by hand since it may have to be calibrated have someone push the gas for you.
Thank you for sharing your tips of taking to auto zone to obtain the code. If you have miss fire of spark plugs, there is different code, watch these videos: ua-cam.com/video/w4-qqNPFgo4/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/YhFWC8VcDOU/v-deo.html
great video sir, 1st thing i do is reset the car computer, disconnect the battery overnight then connect the battery again the next day #2 let the car run with the air conditioner ON when the cooling fan starts everything will reset itself. doing this worked for my Mitsubishi Lancer and most Mazdas are the very same as Mitsubishi's 2006-2011 both cars used the same Computer and electrical system.
Hi Genius Asian, I have a Honda sr4 eg8 1994 180e Automatic In drive when I am stopped or driving quite slowly the idle drops and the car feels like it's going to cut off then it goes back up.
"fluctuates" and "cut off" could mean different things. If it is too slow, you could adjust the accelerator screw described in this video: ua-cam.com/video/4oj3WeCjs_g/v-deo.html (the accelerator cable will lead to a screw)
Flush the coolant a couple cycles with distilled water - u can use radiator flush product. Then remove and clean the Idle Air Control valve - it's getting stuck and/or the coolant passage is blocked with sludgy residue
Thank you for taking the time to chime in, it will help other viewers. Yes, clean the IAC valve is an option you may try. See here 5 other options to fix the idle problem: ua-cam.com/video/ukUprm9jOc8/v-deo.html
Thank you very much. Vrry nice presentation. Good work! I had the rev itself repeatedly idle problem at my Fiat Punto. And actually was not only on idle, I could feel the car accelerating by itself while driving. It was the IACV - idle air control valve. Replaced it with a new one after cleaning it but the problem still there, and the engine runs great again now.
I want to save money too, but some of the suggestions can cause more harm. Spraying flammable liquids and gases onto a running engine can cause a fire. Not replacing the coolant correctly can cause the engine to overheat and warp the cylinders or blow the head gasket.
yes, in general it is risky when you DIY. If you use knives, you may cause injury, but still some people use knives because knives are cheap common tools. A can of carb cleaner is quite cheap, so that is why some people still use it. In order to sustain fire, you need both continued both gas and oxygen supply, if only one of them is missing, then you can not set it on fire. So if you only inject a little bit fuel, not continued supply, then the spark does last. The intake duct is pretty cool, so even if you have both fuel and oxygen you don't have heat to trigger the fire. If you want to be sure, you can wait until engine is cool and then you start your testing.
Man you should have clean your throttle body first and idle control valve clean. And lastly, replace tps. I would also clean the MAF sensor. Do the basics first
yes, there are a lot of different components on the fuel or gas paths, any of the components could cause the problem. You should perform the easy and cheap one first, some of them you have to do as part of your regular car maintenance anyway.
Naaaaaaaaaaa..It's nothing... it's called imprevisation...thiking outside the box, Most Asians have it, even Mexican's and African's have it, now can you work it out why the westerners don't have it????
i have opel corsa type c 2003 one liter when i drive that car on moterway upto 60 miles its start missing and rpm up and down and maintainhence sign come on meter but after few minutes its normal and maintainhence sign still display on meter until i turn off the engine i showed to my mechanic he check the codes with computer and it showed that there is misfire in cylinder 3 we change the coil but have still same problem when i restart the car its start normal and maintainhence sign disappear after few minute
misfire could be spark plug or spark plug cable: ua-cam.com/video/w4-qqNPFgo4/v-deo.html If it is indeed spark plugs, you can DIY change them: 1. The cheapest way to change sparkplugs ua-cam.com/video/YhFWC8VcDOU/v-deo.html 2. to DIY make a sparkplug socket: ua-cam.com/video/f0BXbktniQA/v-deo.html
I hate to say it but data still did not get his point across I did not even see the part where and how he fixed the crazy high idle rpm at a cold start then goes back down to 800 my car is doing this and it sounds like it is gasping for air.
I just wanted to take a min an tell you that your videos are very informative your English is excellent I mean EXCELLENT your not in a rush flying through the videos you take time as n pride in your videos you just got yourself another subscriber as nd I do hit the notification bell as n I hit the like button for those I like and I love all your videos I have several buddies that dies youtube videos that I know on a personal level vide grip garage / Halfass customes./ turning rust this one is personal friends of mine the er entire family arr very.relogious god fearing people the son father and oldest daughter dies videos together in bogota Texas / then Mr Heavy Chevy his wife son an daughter does alot of video together I'm curious the lady talking in background in your videos that's running the camera is she your wife or daughter I truly love to watch videos where mem includes wife an children team effort means alot in any relationship I just wanted to take a mine touch basis with you as n tell you great job great video great English an u earned another subscriber thank you for your time an effort sir
I am sorry that I have caused you so much pain. Can you explain what exactly was the problem? And how can I improve it? One problem I am aware is my English. I did not start learning my ABCs until I was in college. When you are older, it is very hard to get rid of the accent, I apologize. I tried to compensate this trouble with original and useful information to our viewers, technically I am quite capable, for example I challenge anyone with $1000 here: ua-cam.com/video/kiBFM8mdZbI/v-deo.html
Because IAC may not have any problem, rather any one of the many components in either the air or fuel path may cause the same problem. Even some components may not be obvious, for example this hose: ua-cam.com/video/UCzxLBn6o9A/v-deo.html
if the idle speed problem is caused by throttle, then cleaning or replacing it would work, however if it is caused by vacuum leak, then cleaning throttle will not help. Since there are many components on the paths of either air or fuel, make sure you identify the problem. Of course if the car is due for cleaning, it does not hurt to clean, hopefully the problem may disappear after cleaning.
Hey All, I have a Mazda 3 2005. 150,000 km on it. Car was cranking didnt start. i let it sit for about 5 minutes and then it was fine. but to be safe i replaced the battery and then did fuel injector cleaning. Ever since, When coasting or slowing down to going 60 km/h my rpm will surge between 1-2 while it says im still in 4th gear. any thoughts
It's sad that people are so insensitive. smh. the guy is trying to provide what he believe to helpful solutions.
R Hopkins sesees 44sszsdxw address reassessed and and s4se44xssw÷ eeededeee÷seen you @have see me the other day and I love you so much so much for when time time time to time you time you encrusted me e÷is 4 is 44sszsdxw time time 43étime you entruste3s344 refrigerated refrigerated d dme with mom they are not
C'mon Man you know the thing
This man is amazing , can't thank you enough !! fixed my problem completely !! 5 STARS
What was the issue
How please
@@abdalqadr1 burp the cooling system. Unscrew the cap on radiator turn on car put front end on jack in air keep car idling at 2000 to 3000 rpms. Then wait to see bubble's. Then add antifreeze slowly. Keep repeating this process till no bubbles. There is air somewhere stuck in the system. Usually takes about an hour. Wait till there's no bubbles and can top off radiator. 👍 Worked for me on two cars. Civic and accord. Let me know if it worked.
You are patient and persistent man and deserves all the respect and appreciation.
thank you sir and good luck.
He is a self-reliant DYI car owner who tried all his best to save money in repairing his car! I appreciate his knowledge he shared to us despite his chinese accent. Thank you.
thank you for taking the time to provide feedback.
Why would his accent matter at all sir?
His message was intelligent, clear and well explained. I was paying attention to it and nothing else.
Tf you mean despite his Chinese accent? I like his accent
roberto ballesteros - We all have accents to someone and it only means we have a richer world because of different cultures.
Thank you for this excellent troubleshooting video. I really appreciated how you included all the things you tried whether or not it worked. I like the way you think.
Thank you for your comments, I can tell that you really understood the video.
honda is well known for this problem solution is easy, open your throttle body and clean it with carby cleaner and most important part of cleaning clean the idle air control valve which is at the bottom of throttle body attached to it with two bolts thats where the problem is will fix it straight away.
And maf sensor???
@@mashwani052 MAF would throw a different code. OP is correct.
If the issue is under a certain threshold or the sensor for that system is bad , then there won't be a code. It all depends on the "health" of your computer & the various sensors. Variables as they're called. Every vehicle is different because they're all driven differently. All things being equal, a part will degrade in a certain way & can be fixed using the prescribed methods available for that repair. All things are not equal. That's why there are mechanics. If every vehicle behaved in exactly the same way, then a robot could fix it. Sooo, yeah. Plus older cars (this is an 04', but I'm talking about pre-96' in USA) use the older system of obd 1. Making modern scan tools tricky to use. Even with the modern obd2, you still need to find the specific issue, as most scanners that normal folk have won't pinpoint the problem & you need to trace down the failure by process of elimination. But, it's easier to act like an authority on UA-cam now isn't it? Especially in the comments section. If you know better, then make a video showing everyone else how to fix the problem. Put yourself out there & subject yourself to all of the web/cell warriors on here who spew hate & stupidity because they have nothing going on in life or just hate themselves & wanna make others feel as shitty as they do. If you know better, start a channel & make videos. I'll watch them, because I'm always hunting for the correct info for any given subject. But I won't be a turd unless you are.
You made my day! Very glad I could help.
You can root cause a lot of car problems easily, but the idling problem is not easy to determine which one is actually the real problem.
Appreciate your links.
Ignore the people that are ignorant and mean. Hey at least you are trying to help that’s more than I can say for a lot of people. Thank you for trying and thank you for your video.
@@msj19706677 Thank you for your support, your comment is a proof that the world still is a good place to live in.
The easiest to look at first….is your PVC valve sticking?? Blow out w carb cleaner, fixed.
Thank you Genius Asian. This is to let you know your video is still helping folks like me, 11 years after you posted it. Good job.
Glad it helped. Thank you for taking the time to leave comments, we are now even more motivated to produce the best videos because of your kind words.
Understand this is an older video. But this man is still providing people with help they may be troubled with, and may utilize his (monetary,knowledge,skills) to fix their issue. Props to you. And will subscribe!
Thank you very much for the sub.
This guy is so amazing I love how he explains it everything in detail thank you so much
thank you for taking the time to provide feedback.
Thank You!!!
I've been having the same issue lately and can now run through your checklist before spending a fortune putting the car in a garage! :D
Never seen so many certified You Tube mechanics in all my life. If guys know everything possible about cars why are you watching a video like this ? I thought it was quite informative and covered all the bases. Not every car is going to need the exact same repair to rectify the situation. The video shows all the different possibilities, that's it. Excellent video by the way.
Thanks a lot for taking the time making the video, explaining the possible causes with your knowledge and experience. Using a sink tube to test possible air leak and hearing hissing sound is very creative and easy to do. Thanks again for trying to help. Keep up the great work.
+LongTimeTTFan thank you for your feedback
+corgLLC thak u. Thumbs up for sure.
I just bought a 2003 Accord and had the exact same problem. Stopped at OReillys for the cap and problem solved. Thanks for saving me a big headache.
Throttle position sensor, and Throttle body, also Mass Air flow sensor
Thank You for the video and your time
Hello again Everyone! I finally was able to fix my idle surge issue I had on my 1995 Mitsubishi Galant 4g63 engine. The idle surge was cause by the IPS or idle position switch located on top of the throttle body, it just needed a thorough cleaning and a minimum adjustment. Hope this will be of any help to anyone.
Thank you for sharing your result, I am sure it would help someone
If you really want to find your leak, I highly suggest a EVAP smoke machine. I bought mine off ebay for about $70 and it works great!
I had some what same issue with my mazda 3 1.6L . a drive by wire mechanism using on TB.. my issue was idle is super perfect till i put the gear to 1st 2nd or reverse and while releasing the clutch the RPM go down to near zero and stalling and if it touched the zero then car will shut off with CEL on and off.. if i press the pedel and maintain the rpm to 1000 then no issues.(no codes found on scanner).. every time this occurs when try to move from stop /signals or climbing hill.. i did 4 months of R&D on different forums and YT then cleaned MAF sensor, Throttle Body, adjusted accelerator cable and finally IAC Value etc.. it works fine for 2days and the problem came back... unexpectedly i fond this guy doing something with screwdriver near /over the TB.. so my mind says to go and check TB for any screw which i didn't noticed yet... after deep checking i found a small * screw on top of TB is completely hidden by dirt particles... i did research on google abot that and turned clockwise to close it completely and counted the turnes.. then turn back to normal position and turnd HALF anticlockwise.. BOOOMM.. i went to four mec shops for fixing this issue while doing R&D but they didn't find the issue and said more than £500 for full checking and repairing.... i saved the money and learned many... (that screw is for idle air adjust screw and the hole inside is blocked by carbon deposits ... So Closing it completely and turn back to normal makes a clearance on it and it gives more air to the engine for smooth idling.. now i can hear a very low air buzzing sound from intake manifold(not a vaccum leak)) now no stalling, no hard gear shift issues.. i hope this will help some one for sure.. 💡💡💡
thank you for your detailed description to contribute to this topic here. this will help viewers for sure
If the rpm fluctuating just reset your ECM by disconnecting negative battery cable then slowly press the foot brake 5 times and then reconnect the negative terminal to the battery. The computer will reset everything problem in your car. Start the vehicle then your code P0507 will disappeared.
yes reset will clear the error code, sometimes a few days later the error code may appear again if the problem is not resolved. Thank you for taking the time to share.
I think you should clean out the idle air control valve, and also, make sure your throttle plate is very clean.
This guy is just full of herself .....
did not fix it
i have 2001 1.8 holden astra/vauxhall,opal and the Idle was Fluctuating and the car only drove if you could keep the revs up and then would die and not start until it had a rest.
while spraying the throttle body and surounding area with carby cleaner the idle got better,
the problem for me was behind the throttle body there is a hose plugged in to the throttle body and underneath that there is bit of hose at a 90 degree angle whitch had come off and was sucking air i pluged it back in and that fixed my problem,
hope this helps someone.
RPM not steady can be many reasons. Since gas & air don't mix well, it could be gas path, or it could be air path or it could be the control of the mix. Most common is air path, so check the air leak first since it is the easiest to do. Once you eliminate the easy checks, you can then checks the control component of the gas-air. The coolant/radiator affect the control system indirectly, so check other easy tasks first.
On Saturday 16/7/2022 about 5pm a client called me to his abode. When I got there he told me that he observed when he was about to drive into his compound that oil was leaking in his car. Although, it took me some minutes to troubleshoot the problem because the oil spattered excessively to many accessories of the car like alternator, power steering pump, fan belt, TPS, AC compressor, etc. I searched for the leak and finally saw what was causing it. I noticed that it was because of the CKP oil seal at the pulley side/front of engine. It was late hence auto parts store closed that was why I didn't replace the seal that day but encouraged them not to drive the car until I replace the seal.
On Monday 18/7/2022 I changed the seal and the leaking stopped and the idled fine but I only observed that few minutes to avoid catastrophic outcome to the engine because the engine oil level was low. After replacement of the seal the fan belt cutoff and I replaced it as well.
They didn't drive the car until Tuesday when the went to the replace the oil. But before they moved they called that the whole car was vibrating. I was unable to reach out to them so I told them I will meet them on Wednesday 20/7/2022. I got there yesterday as promised and noticed a severe vibration at idle which wasn't there when I left on Monday.
I scanned the car and retrieved some codes that I will upload. Among those codes, I was particularly focused on the P0016, P0113, P0123, and P2135 although I verified the ignition codes and saw that it fired very fine.
As a result, I cleaned the CMP sensor of the 2 banks and installed them back but to no prevail, I still noticed a vibration. I pulled the CMP sensor again within 2 minutes of idling and noticed that it was dirty again. This time I had to pull VVTI solenoid valve of both banks alongside the CMP sensor and cleaned them. In addition, I used a very clean dry cloth and insert into the CMP sensor hole to properly clean the inside of the engine. In the process, I also noticed that the injection head where the TPS sensor is tightened was very dirty as when a carbon and oil are mixed together so I cleaned that too using a tooth brush.
At last, when I put everything back to it's respective places the idle was very nice because the car didn't vibrate again!
However, there is a problem that I want you to help me out with. It's a high rev in RPM to about 1.4 at idle. I Before I left there yesterday I scanned the car again and found only the P0123 and P2135. Please note that this two codes appeared only after cleaning the CMP sensor, VVT solenoid valve and the injection head. It didn't appear before the cleaning of those accessories.
When I started the car it rev high from about 1.25 to 1.4 RPM and remains there. The RPM doesn't go up and down. When I accelerated the car it rev very fine. I also noticed that the TPS connector was slightly broken, it didn't fit in very well and didn't hear a snap sound when connected to the TPS module. But whenever I pulled the TPS connector completely out when the car was idling there was a great reduction in RPM as if the car wants to stall so I immediately connect it back slightly and noticed that the RPM goes down and remains at 1000 RPM. The car owner even noticed the reduction in RPM, stood up and moved to me and said that that's the way the car should idle. But if is still connected at that place and switch off the car it idles to 1.4 RPM and remains there until I repeat the unplugging of the TPS connector process.
I tested the connector with my test light and noticed 2 ground out of the 6pins (one of the ground was very dim the other was bright) at the pin connector that illuminated the dim light when tester was at battery positive. I also noticed a dim light when I checked for current with my test light now hucked up to ground and ignition switch activated to ON position.
Please help me, how do I permanently solve this car problem?
actually the easiest is this one: ua-cam.com/video/wchzwcqclC0/v-deo.html Thank you for taking the time to provide feedback.
miner123454321
Before taking it to get checked anywhere I would do 3 simple things that you can do yourself with a few UA-cam videos. First clean the MAF sensor, most likely isn't the cause but it's always good to clean anyways and it's really easy. Make sure to use specific MAF cleaner or electric wire cleaner as they leave no residue. Next two things come hand in hand. Remove your main air intake and clean out your throttle body (also while you have it removed you might as well clean the idle air control valve which is attached to the TB anyways. Watch some videos or message me if you would like some help. It is a lot simpler than it sounds, just make sure you Do NOT move the butterfly valve when doing so. Also after you're done it's probably best to disconnect the battery for a bit and do the relearn process shown in the video, or just drive it around a bit so it recollect data. Hope this helps
You don't have to mess around with hoses, brake cleaner or propane. Just spray the intake with water vapor. You'll notice if you have a vacuum leak... But as mentioned before in previous comment. You have a DTC for your idle air control valve. That rubbish little scan tool will not help you any further that's for sure. Although Autel has some good diagnostic tools. If you buy one I'd say buy at least one that captures live data.And someone mentioned Scotty Kilmer here. All my respect for him. But if you're interested in some real diagnostics check out ScannerDanner.....
Thanks so much for the video! I just cleaned the EGR passage in my engine to clear trouble code P0401 in my 1999 Accord. This involved the removal of the throttle body and i was not aware of the PCM Idle Learn Procedure. I was wondering what went wrong until i saw your video and applied the procedure.
thank you for leaving comments. We welcome feedback.
This problem since the 1990+ Accord .
McGuyver would be proud.
What did you try? Are you saying that you have already replaced the IAC valve and yet you still have the problem?
Since so many things can affect the idle, and it is hard to know which one is causing the problem, thus I would start with the cheapest and easiest to eliminate the possibilities.
idle control valve
You can also pull one of the vacuum tubes off and blow smoke into it from a cigar or smoke machine. The smoke will come out where the leak is.
I'm going to try that. I made a smoke machine out of pvc
There is a sensor on the steering rack that speeds the engine up when moving steering at tickover to prevent extra stress from stalling engine. My Audi did this and it did not register on any diagnostics. The steering sensor on the rack was faulty so sent input to the CPU to speed up and slow down or just tickover erratically.
thank you for your input
mine was the cold idle valve and the warm idle screw was set at to high idle. the computer will fight the high idle and try to lower it thus the idle will go up and down.
I have a code reader. I get code and go to you tube to find out.
Yes, agree, code reader is not that expensive and it will narrow down your scope of search if you car generates a code. However when you have idle speed problem, codes may not be generated. So you still need old fashioned tests.
use the internet and watch scotty kilmer vids and the one with high idle and fix it by cleaning the iac valve with a spray cleaner
The idle surging happens in foreign cars/mitsubishi, Hondas etc, if the coolant level is low
that is correct
That's not true
Is this true? Can you please elaborate why?
Great display of patient investigation and elimination PLUS perseverance! Great job!
Thank you for taking the time to provide a very positive feedback.
I love the home made stethoscope. V. G idea💡
Great video. Thanks Corg. I have this issue after cleaning the air intake manifold, so will apparently need to do this re-learn procedure. But I also replaced my radiator cap, so do I need to do the burp on the coolant system with the cap off? Could get messy, yes?
L.P. Carr the coolant is getting hot gradually, so it is not a huge splash, but you still need to be careful. ua-cam.com/video/Uvc1MwpW4_0/v-deo.html
I love the thread idea on the hose, I never would of thought of that to check for vacuum leaks. Thanks for the clever ideas!
thank you for taking the time to provide your feedback
Hunting idle = vacuum leak, almost every time;).
Found one on my new car - PCV valve had failed, constant wrong-way vacuum caused a hose to collapse and shred.
Thanks, pal for bringing back a long lost solution used years ago. Shops have gone to $5,000 computers instead of a $5.00 plastic tube. I love the old true saying, "KISS", keep it simple stupid and stop ripping the public off by big dealerships by using over sophisticated equipment.
totally agree with you.
Thanks for the video. The coolant certainly needs changing after 120,000 miles but I fail to see the connection with the idle speed.
I would suspect the IAC valve as a more likely cause.
There are so many causes, you should eliminate them one by one starting with the easiest and those that you have to do as normal maintenance anyway. And yes, the engine rev is controlled by the computer. And the computer takes inputs from many sensors including the temperature, which may be effected by the coolant.
I just finished the idle problem on my car...because of your tips and tricks on finding some leaks on the hose....it cause me a lot on my mechanics to find the problem and solution until he tried to bypass the small EGR on the return fuel line...that minimise the problem however the consequence I've got a idle that sit on 1500. I decided to return it to the line and do the stuff by my self...I've check and clean IAC, TPS, throttle body, and EGR but did not resolved the problem. Untill I've watch your video..afternoon watching the video I immediately went to my car and re checked everything including the hoses and follow your tips I sprayed a carb cleaner on the hoses where I've found a unnoticeable cracked on the hose of hydrobox going to to the throttle body...that's where I've find the problem and fix it. The idle of my car returned into normal at 800...thanks so much...:)
thank you for taking the time to share your story.
Idle air control.
What could cause the rpm to drop immediately then bounce back up afte letting off the accelerator?
I can see your Honda has the engine lights on too just like mine. I Jaber been able to make them go off even though there is no code.
I have an old 1995 Mitsubishi 2.0 and has the exact same problem it always goes away as soon as the car gets to a certain/driving temperature I already performed maintenance like cleaning/replacing filters spark plugs AIC and MAF sensors you name it! with no luck what so ever, I truly believe that this is the exact same problem that is affecting my car I'll definitely look up into it and will be letting you know, you did and outstanding job doing this video taking every single thing into consideration and I thank you for that, you are a kind smart man. Greetings from Venezuela S.A
yes, search the components along both the fuel and air paths and always test or replace the cheapest and easiest components first, you never know you may get lucky with replacing the easiest parts.
Dear CorgLLC, My Honda Accord, December 2004, 2.4 iVTEC was in parking for > 1 month. After starting the engine I noticed the RPM surging between 1000 & 2000. 70,000 km logged & there is no maintenance alarm. Does the coolant flush & radiator cap gasket replacement apply to the mentioned model?
I would be very happy if you respond. Your information & video is really great. Thanks in advance.
first thing I would check is the Idle Air Control valve. Usually this is the problem. And once you get to clean it the idle would return to a normal stable running.
I changed my IAC valve, and mines still surging
@@1CHOZN7 it a vacuum leak
Thanks it resolved my problem.. Keep posting video's sir. Respect...
I have a honda accord same model same issue same everything hoping one of these solutions will fix it. If it dont fix it I still want to say that this asian man is a great guy to get on youtube and try and teach people with issues. If you dont think what he did was anything other than great then move on to a different video. This man has my respect and hands down is a better mechanic than half you thinking you are.
Thank you very much for your positive comment, this is one of the best comments I have seen in a while, there are more good people than bad in the world
old school method...love it. good video
My 06 chevy monte is doing this. When idling, the rpms fluctuate, car feels like it wants to cut off, or it actually does cut off. Im scared to stop at lights because of this lol it will START RIGHT BACK UP NO PROBLEM, but if i idle for too long, it will cut off or act like it wants to
yes, there could be many different things that contribute to the problem. So just start with the easiest to test, eliminate the potential causes one by one
I got a 94 Honda Accord LX 2.2 and mine is doing the same thing as he is,, every chance I get I try looking over when the weather is good cold right now, but this weekend taking up my brother's place he's got a garage see what we come up with.. I know I have to be something simple I don't have no check light come on..
It's sad that people are so insensitive. smh. the guy is trying to provide what he believe to helpful solutions.
You need to replace your idle air control valve no matter how much you clean the idle, still same problem, because idle air control valve is electronic, maybe working for few days, idle is going up in down, but still came back again.So if I were you do not wasting your time to find another solution of using your code computer checking component, buy a new one or after market. I am telling you.
+Arnie Arnieluv yes sometime you can't clean the IAC anymore, but a lot of time when it's dirty, the small "door" does not open freely, thus cleaning would help you for a while. Cleaning is useful if you don't intend to keep the car for too long. If you have to eventually replace the IAC anyway, you may simply replace now rather than a year later.
Pretty helpful if you're a Beginner or someone who needs a fresh idea on to solve or diagnose something. Good job
Thank you for taking the time to leave positive comment
My obdII tells me that my idl problem is caused by the thermostat
very nice video. you had a lot of patience doing that. Can I ask what you do for a living? You seem to have had a very good knowledge. Thank you.
Jerry,
Currently I am doing a few things for living: design/architect/implement computer chips; internet domains; website & social networks. I have one Doctorate degree in electrical, one Master degree in mechanical so I have broad interests.
keep up the good work. Your video on the miss fire was excellent.
Bee Jay.. what is important is analytical knowledge, which with his background you can see why he is better than the average blow job mechanics in USA. Usually if you have an engineering background or person who can think like an engineer, you tend to look at the problem in a different way and workout a step by step, like a flow chart method to find solutions. Having said that many \Asians - Chinese and Indians do not believe in spending money unnecessarily and they try and see if they can solve the problem by themsleves, this is in their blood, coz not everything comes easy in their lives like for the people live in the Western world, also availability of componants /parts are not readily available in most Asian countries and their income levels are not so good, hence they become cleverer in working out problems to find solutions etc... thats why the Asians are always better than the above average westerner in many things if you give them equal oppertunities
Right after checking for vacuum leaks, I would have removed the air filter to see if it was too dirty. BTW, I'm surprised you didn't check the Idler Air Control valve.
A very good video. I've been a mechanic for 35 years. I know Hondas. Good job.
+689452379 thank you very much for your feedback.
Pretty cool! My Accord is starting to idle a little rough with 150k miles. The fans seem to run fine and the engine temp seems normal so I decided to order a new (OEM) radiator cap and thermostat as preventive maintenance. Thanks!!
yes, if you decided to keep the car then sooner or later you may have to replace some questionable components, replacing them now only disadvantages you with early payment but eliminates your anxiety and make the overall system safer.
@@GeniusAsian .I agree. Plus I can keep the older parts in case the new ones go out. Thanks!!
Bless you sir may the lord always look over you thank you for your kindness 😊
So nice of you
Thanks for the vid.
I had similar issues with my VW panel van and found air leaks on the intake where the two halves meet. The rubber seals were ripped, most probably during reassembly after rebuild. I have been putting it off for months now and finally got around to sorting it out.
Generic parts cost R400 ($30) for four pieces of rubber, which think is ridiculous.
So I bought a piece of water hose of a similar diameter (slightly smaller) and cut four 1 inch pieces to as seals. Worked a charm after putting a slight bevel on the end that needed to slide into the female side. There is still a very slight hissing coming from one of the seals and ironically its from one of the original OEM parts that was still in good condition. So essentially my make shift seals work better.
Thank you for sharing your solution
Thank you very much!!!
You're welcome! Thank you for taking the time to leave commen
Thank you man, it helped my problem. :D
thank you for taking the time to provide feedback.
Thanks much for great vid! Am having similar problems with fluctuating idle after adding coolent. Will follow your steps🙂
thank you for taking the time to provide feedback.
clean the throttle body and if check engine shows up take it to auto part like auto zone and they can connect it to their computer and tell you reason including miss fire of spark plugs which causes the same issue. miss fire or leak or throttle body .. on throttle body use throttle body cleaner not carburetor and dont move it by hand since it may have to be calibrated have someone push the gas for you.
Thank you for sharing your tips of taking to auto zone to obtain the code. If you have miss fire of spark plugs, there is different code, watch these videos: ua-cam.com/video/w4-qqNPFgo4/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/YhFWC8VcDOU/v-deo.html
Excellent video.
Nderevipengo la emoinge va'eyra, h'a upei epyno!
Excellent video, thanks from Ireland 👍
great video sir, 1st thing i do is reset the car computer, disconnect the battery overnight then connect the battery again the next day #2 let the car run with the air conditioner ON when the cooling fan starts everything will reset itself.
doing this worked for my Mitsubishi Lancer and most Mazdas are the very same as Mitsubishi's 2006-2011 both cars used the same Computer and electrical system.
Thanks for sharing!
r u chinese or vietnamese Mr. Genius Asian? and where do you live now?
Idle air control valve
Thank you for taking the time to provide feedback.
Hi Genius Asian, I have a Honda sr4 eg8 1994 180e Automatic
In drive when I am stopped or driving quite slowly the idle drops and the car feels like it's going to cut off then it goes back up.
"fluctuates" and "cut off" could mean different things. If it is too slow, you could adjust the accelerator screw described in this video: ua-cam.com/video/4oj3WeCjs_g/v-deo.html (the accelerator cable will lead to a screw)
Flush the coolant a couple cycles with distilled water - u can use radiator flush product.
Then remove and clean the Idle Air Control valve - it's getting stuck and/or the coolant passage is blocked with sludgy residue
Thank you for taking the time to chime in, it will help other viewers. Yes, clean the IAC valve is an option you may try. See here 5 other options to fix the idle problem: ua-cam.com/video/ukUprm9jOc8/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/users/GeniusAsian
Thank you very much. Vrry nice presentation. Good work!
I had the rev itself repeatedly idle problem at my Fiat Punto. And actually was not only on idle, I could feel the car accelerating by itself while driving. It was the IACV - idle air control valve. Replaced it with a new one after cleaning it but the problem still there, and the engine runs great again now.
Great job, another successful DIY job done. Thank you for taking the time to share your result, your comments will help other viewers.
So what was the real cause?. Mine acts like it changes a gear to take off. Scary.
Great explanation of various trouble shooting scenerios ~ thanks for posting!
Ten dollarrrr... cool dude. He really is trying. I like hes persistents on this fixing. I want him for my mechanic.
thank you, It is very rewarding to hear viewers' praise
I want to save money too, but some of the suggestions can cause more harm. Spraying flammable liquids and gases onto a running engine can cause a fire. Not replacing the coolant correctly can cause the engine to overheat and warp the cylinders or blow the head gasket.
yes, in general it is risky when you DIY. If you use knives, you may cause injury, but still some people use knives because knives are cheap common tools. A can of carb cleaner is quite cheap, so that is why some people still use it. In order to sustain fire, you need both continued both gas and oxygen supply, if only one of them is missing, then you can not set it on fire. So if you only inject a little bit fuel, not continued supply, then the spark does last. The intake duct is pretty cool, so even if you have both fuel and oxygen you don't have heat to trigger the fire. If you want to be sure, you can wait until engine is cool and then you start your testing.
Man you should have clean your throttle body first and idle control valve clean. And lastly, replace tps. I would also clean the MAF sensor. Do the basics first
yes, there are a lot of different components on the fuel or gas paths, any of the components could cause the problem. You should perform the easy and cheap one first, some of them you have to do as part of your regular car maintenance anyway.
Dude that leak sensor is GENIUS. Thank you.
+jebpab53126 Thank you for taking the time to provide feedback.
Naaaaaaaaaaa..It's nothing... it's called imprevisation...thiking outside the box, Most Asians have it, even Mexican's and African's have it, now can you work it out why the westerners don't have it????
jebpab53126 aaa7
Hallo , i have vw golf 5 , 2008, 1,4tsi . at start up idel speed fluctuates for short time . is it normal ?
when you say "short time", what do you mean: "short time" how short?
Thanks for the tips! BTW your father is adorable!
Korean? xoxo
i have opel corsa type c 2003 one liter when i drive that car on moterway upto 60 miles its start missing and rpm up and down and maintainhence sign come on meter but after few minutes its normal and maintainhence sign still display on meter until i turn off the engine i showed to my mechanic he check the codes with computer and it showed that there is misfire in cylinder 3 we change the coil but have still same problem when i restart the car its start normal and maintainhence sign disappear after few minute
misfire could be spark plug or spark plug cable: ua-cam.com/video/w4-qqNPFgo4/v-deo.html
If it is indeed spark plugs, you can DIY change them:
1. The cheapest way to change sparkplugs ua-cam.com/video/YhFWC8VcDOU/v-deo.html
2. to DIY make a sparkplug socket: ua-cam.com/video/f0BXbktniQA/v-deo.html
I hate to say it but data still did not get his point across I did not even see the part where and how he fixed the crazy high idle rpm at a cold start then goes back down to 800 my car is doing this and it sounds like it is gasping for air.
here is the fix: ua-cam.com/video/ukUprm9jOc8/v-deo.html also if you want to remove with minimal effort: ua-cam.com/video/4oj3WeCjs_g/v-deo.html
Good instructions. Most fix uploads presume we know it all and give e horrible Instructions
thank you for taking the time to provide feedback.
He said that stupid reader doesn't tell me anything 😂😂😂. Hey me too I have the same problem.
😂yes and yes!
I just wanted to take a min an tell you that your videos are very informative your English is excellent I mean EXCELLENT your not in a rush flying through the videos you take time as n pride in your videos you just got yourself another subscriber as nd I do hit the notification bell as n I hit the like button for those I like and I love all your videos I have several buddies that dies youtube videos that I know on a personal level vide grip garage / Halfass customes./ turning rust this one is personal friends of mine the er entire family arr very.relogious god fearing people the son father and oldest daughter dies videos together in bogota Texas / then Mr Heavy Chevy his wife son an daughter does alot of video together I'm curious the lady talking in background in your videos that's running the camera is she your wife or daughter I truly love to watch videos where mem includes wife an children team effort means alot in any relationship I just wanted to take a mine touch basis with you as n tell you great job great video great English an u earned another subscriber thank you for your time an effort sir
Very clever ways to investigate engine issues.
This was happening to my 95 accord and when I unplugged the map sensor it would go back to normal so I replaced the map sensor and the car is good now
I had a wisdom tooth removed with less pain than watching this video. He should stick to refried rice recepie.
I am sorry that I have caused you so much pain. Can you explain what exactly was the problem? And how can I improve it? One problem I am aware is my English. I did not start learning my ABCs until I was in college. When you are older, it is very hard to get rid of the accent, I apologize. I tried to compensate this trouble with original and useful information to our viewers, technically I am quite capable, for example I challenge anyone with $1000 here: ua-cam.com/video/kiBFM8mdZbI/v-deo.html
Idle control sensor use a oem on eBay don’t buy a cheap one There about 100$ Yeh did about 4 cars because same problem
Thank you for sharing your tip.
My car can't burn properly I have changed so many plugs but nothing has changed?
which plug did you change? What kind of tests did you perform? Which components you have not tested?
IAC valve is out.... change it....
Why you make this video long ....
Because IAC may not have any problem, rather any one of the many components in either the air or fuel path may cause the same problem. Even some components may not be obvious, for example this hose: ua-cam.com/video/UCzxLBn6o9A/v-deo.html
This guy is adorable :)
Thank you for the nice words
you have to clean or replace the idle control valve which is in the trottle below thats it just remove the trottle body assembly
if the idle speed problem is caused by throttle, then cleaning or replacing it would work, however if it is caused by vacuum leak, then cleaning throttle will not help. Since there are many components on the paths of either air or fuel, make sure you identify the problem. Of course if the car is due for cleaning, it does not hurt to clean, hopefully the problem may disappear after cleaning.
Hey All, I have a Mazda 3 2005. 150,000 km on it. Car was cranking didnt start. i let it sit for about 5 minutes and then it was fine. but to be safe i replaced the battery and then did fuel injector cleaning. Ever since, When coasting or slowing down to going 60 km/h my rpm will surge between 1-2 while it says im still in 4th gear. any thoughts
Great video
Good logic
Keep em coming