As an automation engineer, I’m not aware of even more expensive valves that do not leak. Any time your dear with heavy weights you always use the pilot operate a check valve. I think it’s great that you provided this video to educate the general public.
Hey Tim, I was an equipment tech for a utility company for a lot of years. I did a lot of hydraulic work on man lifts and non-man lift units. All hydraulic valves will leak down without a check valve. Some faster some slower depending on conditions like oil viscosity, maintenance, age and so on. John Deere sells a check valve kit for some of their loaders so they can be used as a work platform and you should probably install a check valve on your grapple to prevent shock transferring through the hydraulic lines, especially when raking backwards. So, I don't believe more expensive valves is the answer, I think you've got the right idea here which is to just put a check valve on the more critical functions. Great video, thanks!
What an informative explanation of the economics of the system and the economics of solutions. Well done Tim. Thanks for talking to us while Christy is away 😉. Blessings.
After purchasing the additional part from Summit I still had a leak down. I watched your video on the top link with the check valve. After installing that top link my leak down completely went away. Thank you for the guidance. It is appreciated.
I like the fact that it is cheaper because in some instances leak down isn't as big of an issue and I think this is a great solution for when it is an issue thanks for the great video God bless
Great to see they work. I installed 2 of these (3rd function and side link) a few weeks ago and have not had a chance to test yet - it won’t stop snowing in Minnesota this spring and I don’t want to change from plowing setup. I was concerned about the additional width of the valves when the backhoe is on. It was tight before these valves, so I moved the bracket to the outside edge of the ROPS. I think I end up with even more space than before, but have not tested with the Backhoe on yet. Hoping for spring one of these days!
I do have leaking on my hydraulic top link, but I thought it was related to the weights when I have them on our weight rack that we attached to our hydraulic power pack on the three point hitch.. We just put on the weights when we are lifting round bales. We need the extra ballast on our Grand L 3560 even with Rim Guard. We took delivery on the tractor about 10 months ago. At that time, hydraulic top links were in short supply so we were just happy to get one installed. Lol
Great options. Not to criticize anyone. I've seen cylinders leak. Not a big deal wear I would change them out. As I get delivery of new 2025. This is going to be one of my first aftermarket upgrades.
Tim, outstanding video, and as requested, please do a side link welding/ build video. September to long lol, and I can replicate what you do lol. Would love to see it.
what is the center condition on the existing summit valve? The PO check sandwich requires a different center condition on the solenoid valve to work correctly! My guess is that the current center condition is all blocked, but it will require ports A & B to be open to Tank to allow the sandwich to work correctly.
I think you might be right. With an all ports blocked center, there could potentially be enough pressure left in one of the supply lines to hold piloted valve open
my summit kit leaked really bad (still does) i took off the top solenoid and there was junk in the threads so that one doesn't leak anymore but now i need to do it to the second one too
So the summit site lists the check valve with couplers or without. I assume you installed yours without a coupler. My side link fades bad probably because I have a three weight rack on each side of the I match frame. Any advice would be helpful. Btw I love your Bible passages at the end of your videos.
Tim, I am so grateful for you and Christie putting a Bible verse at the end of each video very very much appreciated and enjoyed it makes you think thank you for doing that. Please keep doing it and if you’re getting any resistance about it you know what to do.
Tim caught video you talking company Yanmar I never heard of is good tractor? Yanmar 324 would have belly mount mower and does have good engine? I hope you try in your yard? It seems your state has 7 dealership. Thanks again answer my questions great video
I have a similar set up. Will the valve work with the single ram cylinders that are on the Artillian plow? I know they work against each other normally but was wondering if enough pressure will be applied to the idle cylinder to trip the piloted valve and allow it to retract.
I have a float position on one of my rear remotes. Would a hydraulic top link with a double piloted check valve prevent me from using this float function ??
@@TractorTimewithTim Thank you, I just called my dealer and the mechanic told me that the float would still work if the cylinder had check valves. I just hesitantly ordered one even though I questioned his answer. Oh well, I guess I can return it.
Maybe I missed something? in a previous video (and mentioned here) you were using an agristore top link with a built in check valve. Was that not enought that you need to do both? This plus the video demonstrating a restrictor is getting me to think that a Summit electric valve system isn't optimal, just as I was about to buy the kit. Do you still recommend the Summit kit after all the extra things you've had to do?
Good questions. 1) The AgristoreUSA top link has the integrated check-valve. You do NOT need this check valve for that top link. ...nor for the new summit top link...it ALSO has the check valve. 2) Electric vs. mechanical. ...yes, there are disadvantages to the elecrical valve. However, there are bigger disadvantages (in my opinion) to the mechanical version. You must have hoses in and out of the mechanical valve controls. On such small tractors, that is LOTS of hoses. The electrical lines are much easier to run to a location where the controls are 'handy'. For that reason, I think the compromise to use electrical control is best. 3) The restrictors are required because the cylinders are so small. Even a mechanical valve would have difficulty controlling such small cylinders (especially the side link) smoothly. 4) Summit will likely make a "professional" kit available later ...in the next year or so which does not have the leak down issues. However, it will be much more expensive. Based on my surveys, folks would rather deal with the leakdown than pay twice as much. 5) I think summit should include restrictors with the side link kit. ...and I suspect they will within a few months. However, until then, getting the restrictors from Ken is easy enough. 6) This is an "ongoing" story. There will continue to be changes/improvements in these kits as time permits. This is what makes it fun! We are showing the progress "as we go" so that you can become more knowledgeable, and jump in when you are ready. 7) Hydrosplus.com is working on "proportional" electric valves which will be the best of both worlds. However, again, this will be more expensive. I think that we have a workable solution right now. ...it will likely get better (more choices, but more expensive for the perfect solution, etc) over time. You have to choose when you want to jump in. :-).
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks for the feedback. I was tempted to go with Tractor Innovations 2 spool kit. The levers provide the fine grain control that could reduce the need for restrictors, and the valves have built in check valves (ish). I think you can work with him to use a 2 spool valve that has float in one, which some people are suggesting. But - as I was thinking through this, I spend some amount of time on the tractor in brush, and having those levers sticking up could become branch catchers and activate them unintentially. With the switches, I could even imagine building a switchbox cover for those situations. Your feedback has given me confidence to get the Summit setup. Thanks!
I'm not in the market for it, but it sounds like summit should offer two tiers of this solution. Economical and pro versions and be transparent about the issue with the eco solution... Would likely drive sales to the pro version.
Another great video from TTWT . One question though, does the Hydraulic Multiplier kits (electric) have the same bleed down problems ? And if they do what can be done about it ? I’ve been looking at both systems for installation on my 3046R with cab . Installation space on the back of my tractor is a big issue so I’m leaning towards the Multiplier option .
@@TractorTimewithTim With the Multiplier you can only run one hydraulic circuit at a time . Each circuit has an electric solenoid that the operator can open or close . Then you operate the chosen circuit with the SCV joystick in the cab . The multiplier is a slightly lower cost system an it has a more compact overall size . I’ll be using a three or four circuit system to operate up to four cylinder s , not sure which one yet .. My third function is probably the only one that may need a check valve though . I’ll contact Summit Hydraulics to see what they recommend .
Hey Tim, great video. I have the four valve with the third function. I have a grapple and it worked fine and then it didn't. It will open and close but it doesn't have enough force you close tightly. It will close but there's no pressure. I could put a balloon in it and it wouldn't change it's shape. I've unhooked the hydraulics and the grapple didn't leak down so I know it isn't the grapple. I've changed the electric ends but it didn't help. What is your thoughts on this? Thanks for this video.
When you say you changed the electric ends, did you move the hoses to a different electric valve, or swap the hoses around on the same valve, or just unplug the electrical connections and reverse them. It's a valve issue barring some crazy hose or fitting issue. If I had to guess, I would say the solenoid on the valve is bad and is not operating the valve correctly. It's possible the valve is bad and is just allowing fluid to bypass the function and return to tank, but that's unlikely. It is possible that the valve is just sticky and may need to be worked for a while to loosen it up or possibly removed, disassembled and cleaned. You would also want to check voltages at the valve when operating the switch to make sure you don't have an electrical issue. I would move the hoses and the electric connections to a different valve to test. Good luck!
Thoughts..i bought the 4 spool and intend on one being the hydraulic top link and one front 3rd function..that being said should i just get 3 check valves? just want to make sure thanks Tim
Did you get AgriStoreUSA top link with check valve? If so, you don’t need a check valve for this one. I would recommend leaving one spool without check valve in case you find the check valve annoying. So, add 2 or 3 depending on if the top link already has one.
Tim, Which check valve to use? They have a couple a (D05 and a D03). I have the 4 spool version for the last few months, soon after initial release (FR4-JD1)
I found your comments about the weights on your speed mover very interesting. Granted my Flat out speed mover is a different model, I was thinking I needed to add more weight to force it to move larger loads of dirt. I can see the gouging with more weight and having the limited control that a 1-2 series and an the E hydraulic control switch could cause. My flat out has a trey on the back axle for adding weight. I have about the same number of weights as your showing in this video, I have laying down in the trey. Seems I get a partial bucket full and unless I pre-work the ground to fluff it up a bit, I can't get a full bucket with it. I moved it over from 4066 to my 5115M, so power not an issue. So you thinking more weight in the weight box wouldn't help with moving more material in the bucket?
Oh, I think it might help you with the 5115M. Have you done much welding? I’m really happy with the design of my weight brackets. Would encourage you to give that a try!
@@TractorTimewithTim No not much of a welder . But I have some ideas for either hanging more weight on it or putting more weight in the weight trey. I will send you some pics on GTT
Hey Tim quick question. I have a JD 125R with 22 hours on it. For some reason when I have the deck on it it starts out ok but then it starts stalling out. I constantly lose RPMs. If I take the deck off it runs fine. Dealer seems to think there’s water in the tank but the red ring on the clear diesel filter is on the bottom. Any idea what the problem could be?
@@stankappiris2242 I just changed the floor board filter yesterday and just pulled it into the garage haven’t really had a chance to check and see if the problem is resolved yet. Hopefully that’ll be it.
@@TractorTimewithTimi replaced the fuel filter under the floorboard like you suggested and it solved the issue than you! My local JD dealer had no idea how to fix it.
I questioned if my valve was leaking, dropping my grapple. I unhooked the grapple, it still dropped. I guess I damaged the internal seal on my cylinder.
This should have been already built into its design. I get that they are trying to keep the costs down, but come on. Now people will have to spend $99 for each single valve they would need, AFTER they bought this remote kit, then find out they have leak down issues? Summit should be offering these valves for cost, not a profit. Sure made me rethink what i will do going forward now. I`m sure with a little bit of research, a company out there probably builds a kit you won`t have to buy extra parts just to make it work "properly". Yes, it`ll likely cost more, but i won`t have to fix it, later.
So far my four function valve that I bought when first come with your discount was around 980 I have no issues. ..my grader box was up last three days and is still up...my box bush hog brand is heavy..please keep my city sullivan indiana in prayers. .had ef.3 tornado last Friday evening 3 dead..154 homes destroyed. All killed were in manufacturer homes
I installed hydraulic fittings that will swivel under pressure at the base on my bucket truck since the hoses move. A year ago, I was able to get 2 for about $100 but if I didn't the result would have been to replace the new non-conductive hoses relatively quick due to exceeding the bend radius specifications.
Quick safety comment: Always put everything rest in on the ground if you are going to step away from the tractor for any length of time. Tractors are “attractive nuisances”. Which means kids will ant to play on them. Always leave everything on the ground, with all residual pressure relieved when you shut down.
I had this issue on my tilt cylinder. I had a buddy fab the custom cylinder. A local hydraulic shop recommended a POCV. So after some trial and error, everything is working! If this video had come out 3 weeks ago, I would have gone this route.
I purchased the 4 valve kit last year for the johndeere and installed it on my mahindra max26 i have noticed the leak down issue but has never been a real problem good to know they have a fix
You talk about not wanting the weights because it was too much down pressure... based on experience is from before you added this check valve. I wonder if the same will hold true when you set it at a certain height and it actually stays there instead of continuing to go deeper as time passes.
Also, very interested in the side link. I am assuming it would be a hydraulic “tilt” which would be awesome for box blade work. I have one on order, but the wait is still 3 month out for my order.
Getting smaller hoses helps a lot with flexibility. My top link came with 1/2” hoses, I swapped them to 1/4” hoses and they are so much more flexible and there’s still plenty of speed for a top link.
Thanks for the info as always Tim! I do have a question though. With all of the added hydraulics, do you have to add hydraulic fluid to your tractor, or do most hoses and implements come prefilled with fluid?
The kit fits fine beside the backhoe. However, I’m not sure the check valves can be added…and it still fit. We have several videos showing us using the backhoe with the kit installed.
Summit needs to update the kit to work with the factory cab. I know it’s adding 90 degree fittings. But it’s another spot to leak with just adding fittings rather then hoses made with them. The factory cab is being more common on the 1025r.
To purchase the new check valve for your rear remote kit, visit:
summit-hydraulics.com/product/double-pilot-operated-check-valve-d03-manifold/
As an automation engineer, I’m not aware of even more expensive valves that do not leak. Any time your dear with heavy weights you always use the pilot operate a check valve. I think it’s great that you provided this video to educate the general public.
Hey Tim, I was an equipment tech for a utility company for a lot of years. I did a lot of hydraulic work on man lifts and non-man lift units. All hydraulic valves will leak down without a check valve. Some faster some slower depending on conditions like oil viscosity, maintenance, age and so on. John Deere sells a check valve kit for some of their loaders so they can be used as a work platform and you should probably install a check valve on your grapple to prevent shock transferring through the hydraulic lines, especially when raking backwards. So, I don't believe more expensive valves is the answer, I think you've got the right idea here which is to just put a check valve on the more critical functions. Great video, thanks!
What an informative explanation of the economics of the system and the economics of solutions. Well done Tim. Thanks for talking to us while Christy is away 😉. Blessings.
After purchasing the additional part from Summit I still had a leak down. I watched your video on the top link with the check valve. After installing that top link my leak down completely went away. Thank you for the guidance. It is appreciated.
I like the fact that it is cheaper because in some instances leak down isn't as big of an issue and I think this is a great solution for when it is an issue thanks for the great video God bless
Great stuff Tim, those DPOCV's are a great addition to the Summit kit. Great explanations too 👍
Great to see they work. I installed 2 of these (3rd function and side link) a few weeks ago and have not had a chance to test yet - it won’t stop snowing in Minnesota this spring and I don’t want to change from plowing setup. I was concerned about the additional width of the valves when the backhoe is on. It was tight before these valves, so I moved the bracket to the outside edge of the ROPS. I think I end up with even more space than before, but have not tested with the Backhoe on yet. Hoping for spring one of these days!
I do have leaking on my hydraulic top link, but I thought it was related to the weights when I have them on our weight rack that we attached to our hydraulic power pack on the three point hitch.. We just put on the weights when we are lifting round bales. We need the extra ballast on our Grand L 3560 even with Rim Guard.
We took delivery on the tractor about 10 months ago. At that time, hydraulic top links were in short supply so we were just happy to get one installed. Lol
Great options. Not to criticize anyone. I've seen cylinders leak. Not a big deal wear I would change them out. As I get delivery of new 2025. This is going to be one of my first aftermarket upgrades.
Please make your own side arm in your shop. Thanks, good video as always
Good video Tim. Thanks for sharing what you have found.
Tim, outstanding video, and as requested, please do a side link welding/ build video. September to long lol, and I can replicate what you do lol. Would love to see it.
what is the center condition on the existing summit valve? The PO check sandwich requires a different center condition on the solenoid valve to work correctly! My guess is that the current center condition is all blocked, but it will require ports A & B to be open to Tank to allow the sandwich to work correctly.
I think you might be right. With an all ports blocked center, there could potentially be enough pressure left in one of the supply lines to hold piloted valve open
The end literally made me LOL she’s been gone for almost a week!
my summit kit leaked really bad (still does) i took off the top solenoid and there was junk in the threads so that one doesn't leak anymore but now i need to do it to the second one too
Yes very interested in the side link Tim
I think you will get better results putting those weights on the axles or lift arms rather than the box blade itself.
Why not just get the hydraulic cylinders whith the check valve on it. Just like you did on the top link?
So the summit site lists the check valve with couplers or without. I assume you installed yours without a coupler. My side link fades bad probably because I have a three weight rack on each side of the I match frame. Any advice would be helpful. Btw I love your Bible passages at the end of your videos.
You already have couplers, right?
Maybe I am misunderstanding.
Anyway, all summit valves leak down.
Tim, I am so grateful for you and Christie putting a Bible verse at the end of each video very very much appreciated and enjoyed it makes you think thank you for doing that. Please keep doing it and if you’re getting any resistance about it you know what to do.
Tim caught video you talking company Yanmar I never heard of is good tractor? Yanmar 324 would have belly mount mower and does have good engine? I hope you try in your yard? It seems your state has 7 dealership. Thanks again answer my questions great video
Great video. Don’t let her see that smile at the end of the video. Hehe.
Enjoyed the video!!
I have a similar set up. Will the valve work with the single ram cylinders that are on the Artillian plow? I know they work against each other normally but was wondering if enough pressure will be applied to the idle cylinder to trip the piloted valve and allow it to retract.
I’m not sure, actually! Sorry!
Is this going on while the tractor is running or just off?
Doesn’t matter.
Kool stuff!
I have a float position on one of my rear remotes. Would a hydraulic top link with a double piloted check valve prevent me from using this float function ??
Yes, the top link will not float with this check valve.
@@TractorTimewithTim
Thank you,
I just called my dealer and the mechanic told me that the float would still work if the cylinder had check valves. I just hesitantly ordered one even though I questioned his answer.
Oh well, I guess I can return it.
wow should not have waited. For four unit and checkvalve sittin at 2k....dang
Maybe I missed something? in a previous video (and mentioned here) you were using an agristore top link with a built in check valve. Was that not enought that you need to do both? This plus the video demonstrating a restrictor is getting me to think that a Summit electric valve system isn't optimal, just as I was about to buy the kit. Do you still recommend the Summit kit after all the extra things you've had to do?
Good questions.
1) The AgristoreUSA top link has the integrated check-valve. You do NOT need this check valve for that top link. ...nor for the new summit top link...it ALSO has the check valve.
2) Electric vs. mechanical. ...yes, there are disadvantages to the elecrical valve. However, there are bigger disadvantages (in my opinion) to the mechanical version. You must have hoses in and out of the mechanical valve controls. On such small tractors, that is LOTS of hoses. The electrical lines are much easier to run to a location where the controls are 'handy'. For that reason, I think the compromise to use electrical control is best.
3) The restrictors are required because the cylinders are so small. Even a mechanical valve would have difficulty controlling such small cylinders (especially the side link) smoothly.
4) Summit will likely make a "professional" kit available later ...in the next year or so which does not have the leak down issues. However, it will be much more expensive. Based on my surveys, folks would rather deal with the leakdown than pay twice as much.
5) I think summit should include restrictors with the side link kit. ...and I suspect they will within a few months. However, until then, getting the restrictors from Ken is easy enough.
6) This is an "ongoing" story. There will continue to be changes/improvements in these kits as time permits. This is what makes it fun! We are showing the progress "as we go" so that you can become more knowledgeable, and jump in when you are ready.
7) Hydrosplus.com is working on "proportional" electric valves which will be the best of both worlds. However, again, this will be more expensive.
I think that we have a workable solution right now. ...it will likely get better (more choices, but more expensive for the perfect solution, etc) over time.
You have to choose when you want to jump in. :-).
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks for the feedback. I was tempted to go with Tractor Innovations 2 spool kit. The levers provide the fine grain control that could reduce the need for restrictors, and the valves have built in check valves (ish). I think you can work with him to use a 2 spool valve that has float in one, which some people are suggesting. But - as I was thinking through this, I spend some amount of time on the tractor in brush, and having those levers sticking up could become branch catchers and activate them unintentially. With the switches, I could even imagine building a switchbox cover for those situations. Your feedback has given me confidence to get the Summit setup. Thanks!
I'm not in the market for it, but it sounds like summit should offer two tiers of this solution. Economical and pro versions and be transparent about the issue with the eco solution... Would likely drive sales to the pro version.
Another great video from TTWT . One question though, does the Hydraulic Multiplier kits (electric) have the same bleed down problems ? And if they do what can be done about it ? I’ve been looking at both systems for installation on my 3046R with cab . Installation space on the back of my tractor is a big issue so I’m leaning towards the Multiplier option .
I don’t know if they use the same valves. Sorry
@@TractorTimewithTim With the Multiplier you can only run one hydraulic circuit at a time . Each circuit has an electric solenoid that the operator can open or close . Then you operate the chosen circuit with the SCV joystick in the cab . The multiplier is a slightly lower cost system an it has a more compact overall size . I’ll be using a three or four circuit system to operate up to four cylinder s , not sure which one yet .. My third function is probably the only one that may need a check valve though . I’ll contact Summit Hydraulics to see what they recommend .
Hey Tim, great video. I have the four valve with the third function. I have a grapple and it worked fine and then it didn't. It will open and close but it doesn't have enough force you close tightly. It will close but there's no pressure. I could put a balloon in it and it wouldn't change it's shape. I've unhooked the hydraulics and the grapple didn't leak down so I know it isn't the grapple. I've changed the electric ends but it didn't help. What is your thoughts on this? Thanks for this video.
When you say you changed the electric ends, did you move the hoses to a different electric valve, or swap the hoses around on the same valve, or just unplug the electrical connections and reverse them. It's a valve issue barring some crazy hose or fitting issue. If I had to guess, I would say the solenoid on the valve is bad and is not operating the valve correctly. It's possible the valve is bad and is just allowing fluid to bypass the function and return to tank, but that's unlikely. It is possible that the valve is just sticky and may need to be worked for a while to loosen it up or possibly removed, disassembled and cleaned. You would also want to check voltages at the valve when operating the switch to make sure you don't have an electrical issue. I would move the hoses and the electric connections to a different valve to test. Good luck!
Thoughts..i bought the 4 spool and intend on one being the hydraulic top link and one front 3rd function..that being said should i just get 3 check valves? just want to make sure thanks Tim
Did you get AgriStoreUSA top link with check valve? If so, you don’t need a check valve for this one.
I would recommend leaving one spool without check valve in case you find the check valve annoying. So, add 2 or 3 depending on if the top link already has one.
Ok thanks. I have not purchased the top link yet but was going to go with your recommendation.
Ok. 18-26” cat 1 from AgriStoreUSA.com use code TTWT for a 5% discount.
@@TractorTimewithTim thank you sir I appreciate the help...this is all somewhat new to me and your videos are extremely helpful.
Tim, Which check valve to use? They have a couple a (D05 and a D03).
I have the 4 spool version for the last few months, soon after initial release (FR4-JD1)
D03
I found your comments about the weights on your speed mover very interesting. Granted my Flat out speed mover is a different model, I was thinking I needed to add more weight to force it to move larger loads of dirt. I can see the gouging with more weight and having the limited control that a 1-2 series and an the E hydraulic control switch could cause. My flat out has a trey on the back axle for adding weight. I have about the same number of weights as your showing in this video, I have laying down in the trey. Seems I get a partial bucket full and unless I pre-work the ground to fluff it up a bit, I can't get a full bucket with it. I moved it over from 4066 to my 5115M, so power not an issue. So you thinking more weight in the weight box wouldn't help with moving more material in the bucket?
Oh, I think it might help you with the 5115M. Have you done much welding? I’m really happy with the design of my weight brackets. Would encourage you to give that a try!
@@TractorTimewithTim
No not much of a welder . But I have some ideas for either hanging more weight on it or putting more weight in the weight trey. I will send you some pics on GTT
EVK= Electric Rear Remote Valve Kit
Hey Tim quick question. I have a JD 125R with 22 hours on it. For some reason when I have the deck on it it starts out ok but then it starts stalling out. I constantly lose RPMs. If I take the deck off it runs fine. Dealer seems to think there’s water in the tank but the red ring on the clear diesel filter is on the bottom. Any idea what the problem could be?
Replace both fuel filters. The one under the floorboard is most likely the issue.
@@TractorTimewithTim thank you by the way.
@@stankappiris2242 I just changed the floor board filter yesterday and just pulled it into the garage haven’t really had a chance to check and see if the problem is resolved yet. Hopefully that’ll be it.
@@stankappiris2242 thank you by the way.
@@TractorTimewithTimi replaced the fuel filter under the floorboard like you suggested and it solved the issue than you! My local JD dealer had no idea how to fix it.
👍
What has your 🐈 to say 🤔
I questioned if my valve was leaking, dropping my grapple. I unhooked the grapple, it still dropped. I guess I damaged the internal seal on my cylinder.
When you mentioned “cheese burger”, I got a short Chic fila add.
I really liked today's Bible verse.😂
This should have been already built into its design. I get that they are trying to keep the costs down, but come on. Now people will have to spend $99 for each single valve they would need, AFTER they bought this remote kit, then find out they have leak down issues? Summit should be offering these valves for cost, not a profit. Sure made me rethink what i will do going forward now. I`m sure with a little bit of research, a company out there probably builds a kit you won`t have to buy extra parts just to make it work "properly". Yes, it`ll likely cost more, but i won`t have to fix it, later.
When the hell is she coming back Tim? Well when?
Looks like summit is selling the top and tilt kit cylinders with the check valves now, similar to the agristore ones.
Yep. We have shown in a later video. Use code TTWT for 5% off.
I always defend you when Neil disparages you or your channel…
Messick? He is ok. I consider him a friend.
please show us what a powerlink is...because i have no clue at all.😅
Hydraulic top link on the 3 point hitch.
@@TractorTimewithTim thanks!
So far my four function valve that I bought when first come with your discount was around 980 I have no issues. ..my grader box was up last three days and is still up...my box bush hog brand is heavy..please keep my city sullivan indiana in prayers. .had ef.3 tornado last Friday evening 3 dead..154 homes destroyed. All killed were in manufacturer homes
I installed hydraulic fittings that will swivel under pressure at the base on my bucket truck since the hoses move. A year ago, I was able to get 2 for about $100 but if I didn't the result would have been to replace the new non-conductive hoses relatively quick due to exceeding the bend radius specifications.
Quick safety comment: Always put everything rest in on the ground if you are going to step away from the tractor for any length of time. Tractors are “attractive nuisances”. Which means kids will ant to play on them. Always leave everything on the ground, with all residual pressure relieved when you shut down.
I had this issue on my tilt cylinder. I had a buddy fab the custom cylinder. A local hydraulic shop recommended a POCV. So after some trial and error, everything is working! If this video had come out 3 weeks ago, I would have gone this route.
I purchased the 4 valve kit last year for the johndeere and installed it on my mahindra max26 i have noticed the leak down issue but has never been a real problem good to know they have a fix
You talk about not wanting the weights because it was too much down pressure... based on experience is from before you added this check valve. I wonder if the same will hold true when you set it at a certain height and it actually stays there instead of continuing to go deeper as time passes.
Also, very interested in the side link. I am assuming it would be a hydraulic “tilt” which would be awesome for box blade work. I have one on order, but the wait is still 3 month out for my order.
Thanks Tom for the great video. I enjoy your channel very much.
Getting smaller hoses helps a lot with flexibility. My top link came with 1/2” hoses, I swapped them to 1/4” hoses and they are so much more flexible and there’s still plenty of speed for a top link.
Yah, and it's not like you really need the flow rate that a larger hose >may< give you.
Thanks for the info as always Tim! I do have a question though. With all of the added hydraulics, do you have to add hydraulic fluid to your tractor, or do most hoses and implements come prefilled with fluid?
You might have to add some.
Question. Doesn't the kit get in the way when using the backhoe? Looks like you need to remove the kit when using the backhoe. Please advise.
The kit fits fine beside the backhoe. However, I’m not sure the check valves can be added…and it still fit.
We have several videos showing us using the backhoe with the kit installed.
They don't have specific kits for Massey, darn. I plan on contacting them and seeing what they can come up with for my tractor.
The universal kit will work fine. Don’t forget TTWT
Summit needs to update the kit to work with the factory cab. I know it’s adding 90 degree fittings. But it’s another spot to leak with just adding fittings rather then hoses made with them. The factory cab is being more common on the 1025r.
What needs to change?
The feet lines to the grapple need to be 90 degrees it interferes with the cab
Easy to add a 90 isn’t it? You can order one from DiscountHydraulicHose.com