WORST FEAR REALIZED! John Deere 3520 Auction Buy MAJOR ISSUE! Can I Find a Cheap Fix?
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- Опубліковано 28 лют 2023
- Corroded Axle Housing may sour my auction purchase. Can we find a way to work around this issue without spending a fortune?
Axle Housing Part Numbers: LVU802441 LVU803943 LVU803944
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I own a welding shop and my suggestion would be not to put a bolt in it but since theat mount is a thicker piece just to weld up the hole. Start by welding around the edge of the hole and keep going around until you have the hole filled. Something that works good to clean rust is a air powered needle scaler or needle gun
Admittedly, I know very little about welding, though I have done a little many years ago. I was going to recommend something similar - a sort of dome weld around the top. Seals the hole and makes water flow away from it.
As welder and fabricator I agree 100%. Clean it as clean as possible and weld the holes shut. Since the rest of it sealed itself you shouldn't have any problem.
Something else too if use the bolt you should have sanded all the galvanization off and been wearing a mask when he welded it. I've been welding for years, and that stuff can make you deathly sick.
I would have cut a piece of round stock to fill the hole 3/4 of the way, then welded it in and fill the hole. Less chance of any spatter or slag getting in JMO.
Welding a good fix, I would have used round bar instead of a bolt or circled the hole until closed, descale & paint. No grinding smooth. But everyone is different so what feels right do it
Sorry Tim I would not have fixed that the way you did. Like another guy posted the corrosion needs to be dealt with too. I would have unbolted the steel and sandblasted and welded off the tractor. No need to put a bolt in there, weld it and grind it flat so there is no witness line. With the roll bar off you could clean up the aluminum and possibly use a pipe tap to plug the hole. Then paint both parts and put back together.
Sometimes we don’t go looking for things that need to be done, those things seem to find us. Also, it appears to me you present tractor and other info in an objective “pros-cons” in a constructive style. Surely we each have our bias view, but you present in a helpful, transparent style. Keep up the good work. Blessings.
The galvanization on those bolts will make the weld harder to perform even for an expert. Grade 8 bolts won’t have the galvanized finish which makes them easier to weld for future reference. I do believe your solution will work fine!
How about a shop vac to remove the majority of the debris then follow up with compressed air. Less mess and better for the allergies. Also a coat of "Rust Reformer" before paint couldn't hurt unless that means an extra trip to town. Nice farm repair. 👍🏼
My suggestion, after the fact of course would be to epoxy a metal plate over the two holes.
Regarding the issue you were having with the weld, the plating on the bolts should have been removed prior to welding. If the plating on the bolt were removed prior to welding, you would have likely gotten a nice weld.
The marine industry uses 3M 5200. Cut off a bolt of the correct size; coat the bolt & the hole with 5200; insert bolt & let set for 48 to 72 hours. It now takes King Kong to pry that cutoff bolt out of there. The black 5200 is better than the white.
And don't get 5200 on your fingers, might take a couple weeks to get off! :) Good stuff!
As good as 5200 is I don't think I'd ask it to do this job personally. Having restored a few boats I do trust 5200 below the waterline for at least a few years. I'm not sure its up for rusty steel in a greasy/oily/muddy environment, maybe im wrong. I'd look at jb weld if pursuing a "tube" based solution first. Welding them closed strikes me as a better fix
@@na-et2gp Grand Master marine tech for 49 years. Alcohol dragster builder/driver for ten. 5200 works on dry concrete, metal, rusty metal, plastics, & lots other. Held back our oil storage tank seam for almost 20 years. Gas didn't even hurt it.
@@robertginther9248 interesting experience you've shared here, that's pretty impressive. I did have an experience where 5200 did release on me that's given me pause, or at least caused me to think, when using 5200. That use case was high gloss polyurethane paint on my console and white 5200 sealing around the base of my hydraulic steering unit. after a few years the steering developed a slow leak which ran fluid over the 5200 for a few seasons. when I finally fixed it I found the 5200 released very easy, basically along the lines of failed caulking.
when the 5200 was originally applied it was freshly painted and a new steering unit. in retrospect this was a job better suited for 4200, at the time I used 5200 above and below the waterline on that boat and have come to regret that decision on a few occasions when undoing that work above the waterline, stuff can really hold well in the right conditions. but for me it showed there are conditions where 5200 isn't the end-all be-all adhesive some report or assume. it can release under the wrong conditions. it's possible I applied the 5200 before the paint fully cured. it's possible I didn't clean the new steering unit sufficiently, so the 5200 failure may have been partially my fault and/or the high gloss surfaces to blame. I believe the leaking hydraulic fluid played a part as well
when one of my hydraulic trim tabs developed a leak the 5200 used there also released fairly easily, putty knife and a few minutes and my tab and hull were totally cleared of 5200. neither were damaged, it wasn't tightly bonded. I cleaned and fixed, re-sealed with 5200 but I'm aware it's able to fail and keep an eye on all of my seals below the waterline.
your reported experience did raise my curiosity, 3m's datasheet does include recommendations along the lines of avoiding alcohol around 5200 when curing. 3m recommends use of a primer for better adhesion (in my case the 5200 failing to adhere well was high gloss paint), recommends use of sandpaper to rough up the surface prior to application. 3m does recommend avoiding grease, oil or other contaminates that may discourage a strong bond. I feel like my experiences with 5200 match well with what's in the datasheet and I'd personally consider other options for the use case presented in this video knowing it's an oily environment.
I will continue to use 5200 for applications below the waterline but I personally don't trust 5200 100% of the time. like any adhesive it's only as good as the surfaces and prep and could fail at some point. I've always used white 5200, sometimes the fast cure version. your comments that black is better than white 5200 def has me curious though, think I'll grab some of the black stuff to try at some point. if the black is a stronger bond than the white we may be talking about different products
Keep it up. People need to have as much information as possible. You are adding to that knowledge base.
Great job, hats off for tackling it yourself. I’m a beginner welder too. Bit here and there over the years but struggle to get the welder set just right. I hear people say, “ bacon frying) is the sound you want to hear. You mentioned silicone and the first thing came to mind is JB weld! It’s good stuff. I think I would have mixed some up and filled the holes or coated the bolts, put them in and a good coating under the bolt head and up over and around the bolt head. After it cured paint things up. While the tire was off a good cleaning of the linkages and a spray of lube on those linkages. I also was hoping you would dig out an inspection camera to view down that deeper hole before you fixed. I know someone not too far from me that bought a big cab tractor from a local town with lots and lots of rust from a salt spreader, I think I’ll send him this video to bring attention to him on this matter. 👍
I believe your method will take care of the problem, Tim. As usual, it's hard not to appreciate all the great ideas and advice that is totally unbiased. Great job.
I think that you’re one of the most honest and least biased people there is, do you love Deer, yes, but that is not a failing. You are an excellent source of tractor information, you can also tell the amount of time you put into your videos. Tractor guru, all the best to you and yours.
Thanks Dave. A video just came out from TYM/Tony. The FB post said I was ‘gaslighting’. Wow!
Nice simple and cost effective repair. Good idea. I believe you took the right approach. Hey if it doesn't work then you can jump into the major repair and full part change out but your fix will probably last many years. New rubber looks great.
Tim,just think of how many of us who own JD compact 🚜 are going to look and see if they need to plug some holes. You many be helping more then a few. Great video!! Now I am going to my shed and take a good look at behind the wheels. Thanks 😊.
I would have been inclined to paint that with some rust neutralizer prior to painting. I've used "Rust Encapsulater" spray from Eastwood in the past and it worked very well.
I'm will you Tim. I would be very confident that the the repair will last for you. I own a welder also but if I was faced with the same problem i would have been very tempted to just silicon it. Hats off to you for going the extra mile and doing it right. Don't think you'll have as much buildup of corrosives in that area given the way you use the tractor compared to its previous life.
Ive really been enjoying watching you get an older tractor and fix it up Tim! keep up the good work!
Thanks. This has been a lot of fun for me. It would be miserable if it were my only tractor, or if I were broke and could not afford the parts…or if I had no interest in or tools for the repairs.
Goes to show that there are different situations for different times.
Hey Tim! I didnt go through all the comments to see if anyone else suggested it. What about greasing a tap to catch the filings and tap it to fit a pipe plug that you can put some good sealant on. Then you dont have to weld it but would serve the same purpose. Just a suggestion. Keep up the good videos
That's exactly what I was thinking!!
I think it's the most practical way to fix it all things considered. Good job
next time grind the plating off the bolts first that would help with spatter and such. If your still worried about leakage slather some JB weld over the top.
Tim, thanks for taking the time to show us the work you've been doing on your tractor.
Regarding your welding challenges... Four things must be considered prior to welding: 1 - Metal type/thickness. 2 - Voltage. 3 - Polarity. 4 - wire type/diameter.
Most welding machines have a chart to get you started, but you may have to make some minor adjustments.
I suspect if you were using a MIG welder, your excessive splatters may be attributed to incorrect polarity for your wire type that you chose.
Good luck, and keep up the good videos 👍
Hi Tim of all the UA-camrs I watch, I have always enjoyed your videos. No matter what others might say. Keep up the great job of videos.👍
Hearing the price and time to change to housings, I think u did well in just welding up the holes.
Hey Tim, you do a great job with your videos and I've never sensed any bias towards a brand in your comments. Keep up the great work! Thanks!
I'm sure people have already said this but a simple rosette weld would be easy and you could keep grinding it flat and welding until you are happy with the seal. I would also use a rust converting coating and or cold galvanize followed by a uv coating of some sort. Welder settings are different for almost every machine but an easy way to think of the settings is to imagine the setting doesn't consider the thickness of the project but the measurement is how deep the weld puddle will penetrate... so if your material is 1/2" thick and you set the machine to 3/8" setting it wont be capable of fully welding the piece without a groove. The opposite of that scenario is if you set the machine for 3/8" and are welding 1/4" material you might blow through and have a hard time connecting the materials as the metal will be too hot and try to pull itself away from the weld. This might not be the best explanation but its how i think of the settings to set my machine.
Ive got a Yanmar made Deere and a 4066 and i love both of them . I agree with the newer machines maybe hard to get parts for in some brands . BUT Deere has always been good about keeping parts for the Yanmar made machines in my experience
Tim, you do an excellent job explaining all about everything that you do on your channel. I have never seen or felt that you talk down any other brand.
Like you said the John Deere is not new and I’m sure it will be fine.
Yes, I would follow it up with a service later just to make sure you don’t have any metal particles or grinding particles down in there By the way, I have owned John Deere, Oliver, Kubota , Massey Ferguson, Ford, and New Holland, so I’m not stuck on any particular brand. One thing about buying a tractor versus a car. You have to think about 20 years down the road because with a tractor you probably will still have it and the car will be long gone.
Tim, as an RK24 owner of several years, I completely agree with your views on rebranded tractors. If someone doesn't have the knowledge and means to source their own parts and perform their own repairs, they should most definitely go with a mainstream brand with a good dealer network in their area. My RK (for the most part) has been a little tank, but there have been several issues over the years that RK parts & "service" has been ABSOLUTELY 100% worthless to help with. All tractors will have issues. The owner just needs to decide up front if they want help with them or not. Keep up the great content! 👍
For years I've appreciated your fun and informative videos! There are some real "tools" out there that feel better when they are negative about other people. You and your wife are great!! I don't even own a JD, but learn a lot and have fun watching. I know you won't do it, but I will give those nay sayers the finger for you:)
I like the Jb weld idea too. I think what you did would be good though. If you went the flat steel over the housing you would have had more to seal up. I did have a question though about lil Johnny and the increased hydraulic pressure. How does that effect the 3pt hitch lift capacity? I didn’t remember it being discussed in that video I’ll have to go back and watch it
As always Tim, interesting.
Hope you got a lasting fix with a good seal.
I worked for John Deere and sometimes they would use 1 part on several different applications. The holes that you plugged, that plate might have gone on all the tractors that had a cab. Some holes might have not been needed in your case. The other thing is you are just plugging a hole so you could have ground down the edges to make it easier to weld. Just a thought and thank you for all you do. We enjoy your videos so much no matter what you are doing. Thank you
You do a great job being fair and honest!
You're fine. Just run it enough to keep any moisture evaporated off. Chances are you got more moisture inside from simple condensation than from leaking. As for the corrosion, I think you are correct in that the mating surfaces are now fused and not an issue unless you needed to separate them. The holes are now plugged. I'm sure there will still be some corrosion due to residual, but it will be minimal and filters and fluid changes will take care of the issue.
BTW, the weld that does the job is the one that is good. Yes, if it was some critical structure, you want the proper depth and joint, but for most projects, this kind of thing is plenty strong enough. I've done who know how many welding projects over the years. A great many are not "the right way", but sufficient for the job.
Heck, I even got pissed at the stainless handle on my grill breaking off the threaded insert and hit it with a standard MIG setup (not a stainless setup) and it's held just fine now at least 15 years. It's all hidden in the handle and can't be seen when bolted up. WIN.
In 2015, I welded a bracket to mount a topcase on my motorcycle that wasn't designed for a topcase. Sure, I way overdid it in material thickness, but even after the abuse I've given it with FAR too heavy loads it is just fine. Pretty welds? Nope. Strong? Seems strong enough.
Only welding I've seen fail was a joint I specifically didn't weld strong. One of those pitching net things at the local youth field was falling apart. The net was fine, but the frame had been left out and all the joints were held with set screws that had rusted badly and most were loose. I broke or cut all the bolts off, welded the main part of the frame, but the foot bars on the bottom, I just tacked in place worried that if I made them strong, the kids would bend the tubes. Well, they both bend the tubes AND broke those welds. I have since added some 3" angle iron and notched it to hold the frame. 1) that isn't going to bend and 2) It's a lot heavier now so it takes a couple kids to pick it up and move it.
I am a big fan of the liquid metal. I used a hose clam on a half shaft once in my car and it eat a hole in the aluminum case of the transmission. I Lost all the oil in the trany. Used liquid metal and filled the hole. Worked until sold the car 75000 mile later. Just an FYI. Thanks again for all you guys do. Very much enjoy your channel.
I believe you fix was perfect for what you were working on. Great job!!!!
I think what you did is more than fine. Also, I look forward to your next video on the new tires.
Remove ROPS bolts, raise ROPS frame, insert 300 series SS sheet stock, won't react to aluminum or mild steel. Or just install Dorman expansion plugs in holes? Good luck 🤞 usually the simplest is the best!
Tim, if you were able to put a piece of sheet rubber between the cab support and the axle housing you would seal it and prevent dissimilar metal corrosion.
Or a thin sheet of polyethylene, any type of material to provide electrical insulation.
My suggestion is to have two plates to fit under the cab brace. So it covers all the holes and you can seal it easier. So in a way you would be using it as a gasket.
Hi Tim,
How about making a plate that will cover the holes that is held down by two of the mounting bolts. Clean up the area, prime and paint it then add a bead of silicone between the new plate and the existing surface. Welding next to the aluminum surface might cause additional problems.
During off season, you could loosen the mounts, lock the diff in place, pull the axle, and do a thorough inspection and repair up inside there. Something to consider in case inner corrosion could possibly drop the fastener down inside causing greater damage. God bless.
We had the same problem, put thick gasket rubber between housing and steel plate then weld plate over hole, comen problem , done a couple. Very good reliable tractor,
If you find it tipsy get the firestone turf and field tires and rims.
I like the bolt idea. Weld the bolt in one or two spots then use something called LAP sealant. Its a RV product used to water proof RV roof items like an A/C and vents. Goid luck.
What we did on our work 3320, 3720 was tap the hole, then use thread sealant on the bolt.
You read my mind about putting a rectangular plate of steel over those holes. I'd still try flushing those holes out somehow first and add some fluid film down in those holes or Never Rust from Hotshot Secret. As for the surface areas, I use a variety of Rust converters that transform the rust into ready to paint surface in a couple hours. Rust converters leaving primed coating I've used were Star brite and Jenolite. I also had decent success with Krud Kutter MR32 but I see that must been replaced with RG32. Good Luck, I don't think I'd worry about replacing those housings. Doctor them up and run it as long as you can so your overall cost per hour goes down.
Tim I did not notice any oil residue on any of your metal, You're tools or shop towels, so I think that you fixed your problem before it was a bigger problem. You will find out when you service the rear end. Thank you and your family.
Tim keep making the videos the way you want to. I’ve been watching since you lived in Carmel and love your videos! Please don’t change or listen to the nasty comments! We love your videos!
Working with what you have, Good job!
Well done Tim. Glad you caught it now and not when it's too late. Depending on your mig wire size, with 1/4" Carbon steel you are generally looking at 240 wire feed speed or 155 amps with .035 the Flux Core you seem to be using. I think you did the most common sense repair you could manage. Great job!
Great job showing how to fix on a budget..thanks
Tim if you haven't already done all the scraping i have had good luck with adding some constant air pressure to the rear end (5-10 psi) thru the filler cap while you are scraping around. The positive pressure will blow the chips out as you are scraping and scratching. You will have to manufacture a plug for the air to attach to the filler plug. Good Luck!
Another great video, Tim! May God Bless you in everything that you do!
A good way to take off galvanized coating is use vinegar and usually it does it quickly. Then i use a flap disc to make it clean and maybe some acetone on both parts. The door on the welder gives you a starting point for the thickness
I definitely think you did a good job of sealing up the area.
Plugging the hole is one issue. I suggest the longer term issue is stopping the galvanic corrosion resulting between the dissimilar metals. Unchecked it will eventually cause the aluminum to disintegrate. As a retired HD truck R&D engineer I have seen many examples of this failure. It is necessary to electrically insulate the two metals by a non conductive barrier. The current layer of rust will not stop further deterioration. A plastic gasket would work or more commonly a layer of Alumilastic is applied between the metals. I have seen examples of ½" aluminum truck frame rails completely disappear where cast iron suspensions brackets attach. Love your channel, good luck.
I love my Knipex cobra pliers! If you haven’t tried them the Knipex pliers wrenches are fantastic. They have mostly replaced my use of crescent wrenches. You can save some money on the 8 and 10” sizes by going with the Irwin brand but the Knipex are obviously higher quality. I have a set of the 5” pliers wrench and matching cobras that literally live in the tool slots of my cargo work pants.
I took a beginners welding class at the local Community college so I'm about as proficient as you at welding. But it's enough to do the things I need to do to keep my equipment operational. That's all we need if we're doing it strictly for ourselves.
Tim, clear accurate info can never insult a reasonable person. We need accurate info to form our own opinion. So thanks for your efforts. Welding takes practice.
Being honest sometimes hurts people's feelings or ego, honestly I think every thing I've seen you do you have been very truthful if they find fault with the truth then they are watching the wrong video I'm thankful for your videos, every tractor mfg. Has their own set of faults. Thank you for your videos
Fixed is fixed. So good job Tim. Don't worry about the negative comments, some people are always looking for an argument or to gain from using your name to benefit them.
I think the welds will work fine. Also, I like the vids on tractor brands/re-branding.
The build up of dirt on the 3520 really drives home the need for us all to keep our equipment clean. A full car wash or a Larson Farmers type of clean is not needed but just hose it off after use. Even on the farm we used to hose off equipment especially after spreading manure. That stuff really corrodes. I really enjoyed your painfully honest experience on this tractor. Thank you for doing these videos.
Tim, an auto body supplier sells panel glue in a calking tube. It's for sealing body panels at the seams. This stuff flows well ,tools good and is water proof. Fills all voids completely.
Best thing to do Tim is get a few pieces of scrap steel of varying thickness and on a wet rainy day just take an hour to experiment with your welder settings, a little practice pays dividends in your ability to weld. Not a bad job.👍
When you get splatter like that the first thing to look at is the ground contact. Also a needle gun works wonders on those inside corners and hard to get areas. Next a rust neutralizer like Corroseal should be applied before paint 12:36 to the active rusty areas you don’t grind or chip off.
"Grinder and Paint make me the welder I ain't"
Well done Tim, she obviously needs a little TLC but I think you overall have a decent machine there.
Loved the saying....maybe use it myself
Appreciate the tractor and attachment information across all brands. Massey Ferguson 1533 owner.
Welding or JB Weld with a smear of RTV if needed. In your ownership activity it won't see much salt again.
Not a good situation for sure ! The welding up the holes probably is a good idea but my concern is if there’s further damage under the mounting plate. They should never have left those holes. Guess the other side is about as bad. Salt, aluminum and steel isn’t a good combination ! Hope you get it figured out. Have a Blessed Day
Looks like it should fine. I would use a good rust stop/encapsulating primer and then the rubberized roll/spray on bed liner. I'm not sure if it comes in a small enough container for such a small area.
Looks good tim and welding is the best solution for this problem 👍
Hey Tim, there’s a product out now. That is very good for kind of fixing that issue you painted on with a brush it looks like mayonnaise water down and it turns everything black and seals it. It’s also rust preventative. I don’t know the name of the stuff I’ve only seen it on UA-cam and Facebook.
Enjoyed the video! The repair is much better than doing nothing and was done well.
As for you being a John Deer fan. I'm a GM fan and I'm sure I will get some grief about that. John Deer is a good brand of tractors and so are a few others. I watch you channel to see what you and Christy are up to. As well to learn about tractors and implements in general. Thanks for sharing and I'll keep watching.
You did good tim. You will always have pin holes in your weld with a wire feed if there is rust on the metal.
After the painting you should spray undercoating oil all around area especially inside cab mount tubing.
You need to seal below the steel plate. The rops/cab support is not sealed to the axle housing so you can still get water between them. So need to seal holes in the axle housing. Loosen all the cab mount bolts and raises slightly to clean and rtv the holes.
Good job Tim I do enjoy your videos. Keep the faith brother
Tip Tim,
Always use black bolts to weld in. Plated and galvanised bolts will lead to weld porosity. Ie holes. Or grind the plating off back to bare steel around the bolt head.
Weld done for tackling the job.
I believe that will work just fine. Man that made that tractor look totally different. I like r1 tires on big full sized tractors but they really look narrow on the compact tractors. I’m curious if that’ll affect stability. I noticed though that the rear wheels can be set out some so that would help. I bet she’ll dig now better not pull onto a wet lawn though 😂
Outside a good spray bath would be best. But it is complex to work in dry mud it is so fine. The filament is likely from bales of hay. They wrap rolls and such.
You may have got this suggestion, but a freeze plug that goes in a block would work. They make them in all different sizes.
Tim, I have been watching your video for years and I know you are more or less a John Deere person, but that doesn't take away from your videos , or what you show on your channel. Myself, I own a Kubota L3901DT, but I have learned somethings from you.
I think what you did should work to keep dirt and water out of the axle housing as long as there isn't any rust though under the square tube that supports the cab.
Good job fixing a problem. Putting steel and aluminum together in a corrosive environment is a bad design. I like the JB weld option mentioned below by Laurie Harding. I might have gone that way too. I am also an beginner welder and am confused at situations like this too where the metal piecs don't fit the standard 'narrative'
Well! I have a brand new 1025R, so I don’t have this problem…..but I watched the video completely! It’s just interesting watching to see how people tackle a problem, for which you never know, I made need to do one day. :) Enjoyed it, thanks for all your great videos.
Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed the entertainment angle.
That looks like its gonna work great. Could have been worse, glad ya caught it in time
Where 2 dissimilar metals make contact without a nonmetallic gasket causes galvanic corrosion. Seen copper/steel pipes connected that the copper was paper thin.
Put in a piece of cold rolled in each hole so they come up flush with the plate, then weld them in. You could use a bolt cut to fit the hole. Do both sides. Sand blast the frames and paint with zinc chromate paint. Paint over that with truck liner.
Tim,
You need a chemical conversion coating for the steel and aluminum, the steel conversion coating is a product made by DuPont called Ospho or another product made by Loctite called Extend. These products are applied to light surface rust on steel and they etch the surface and change existing rust to an inert substance (the red oxide turns black and stops rusting). After the product is applied it is ready for paint, don’t disturb it paint it.
The chemical conversion coating for aluminum is commonly called Alodine, it will not kill corrosion that must be removed by grinding or blasting, then alodine can be brushed on or the part dipped. To use the Alodine the multiple parts must be disassembled. After both parts are treated and painted there should be a good sealant between the mating surfaces when reassembled. You have dissimilar metal corrosion and since the two parts are in constant contact corrosion will continue to grow until metal failure.
Once the part are treated and reassembled I would apply sealant to the void and create a runoff for water, dirt, debris and the new sealant dam will protect the surface.
39 year corrosion specialist for the Navy and Marine Corps aircraft.
If you can get the ROPS bar removed, tap the holes from the bottom, then add a bolt from the top side. You could add a washer and seal it with silicone.
Just a couple of thoughts. I would have used a vacuum in there while digging out the holes.
You now have no way to check for corrosion now, in those holes with the bolts welded in. I think I would have used cork plugs in those holes.
Another thought would be, weld flat steel across those holes, then install grease nipples or oil cups above each hole. Then grease or oil when doing the tractor service.
Just my thought, don’t mean to indicate that how it should of been done.
Any way. Great video.
My question is, would a rubber plug or stopper (similar to what you would use for lab ware) be effective in those holes? I'd imagine that as long as you had a decent seal; if you had sitting water, there'd have to be a significant amount of it to get past the plug. But then it depends on what tasks you're using the tractor for, and the associated environment (i.e. mud, or manure pit...or 2" rock introduced into the mix...) I enjoy your channel and your videos are quite informative. Thanks!
You could drill and tap the holes for oil pan plugs. Then use plugs with rubber washers. It could possible work.
JB fast weld stick. It's epoxy that can be fairly easy to remove at later date if needed or leave it permanent
I wonder if you had enough depth in those holes to tap them, and just cut a bolt short and thread it in with some thread sealant.
Great video. Really appreciate the updates on the auction purchase. Looked like an appropriate fix to me relative to the cost/condition of the tractor. Maybe they used the chunk missing from the fender on the right side to stick in the pressure washer wand to keep it cleaner ;)
Ha! I replaced that fender yesterday. Haven’t replaced the left one yet, as I’ll have to lower the fuel tank to do so. …and tank is full right now.
Tim they make a paint product that will lock in the rust and slow it down. You may want to consider using that first. Good job thinking out of the box for sealing that.
The welded plate is the best option. Just make sure you're down to clean bare steel where you weld.
I would definitely change hydraulic oil and filter. And I would see if there is a sump screen to clean.
Looks like a great "bush fix" to me! Considering the tractor age and condition,, it appears to be an appropriate tactic. In the long run, better than trying to fill the holes with silicon or JB Weld that
could have dropped into the case and would be potentially damaging. Plus it would be way easier to get down to good metal on a flat surface than trying to get a clean sealing surface inside the holes.
The R1, aka, Ag tires will serve you well in the garden and field.
Nice effort Tim! Good luck!!