Mr Muscle Audi A3 Tdi Turbo Clean - cheap fix
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- In this video I will show you how to clean your Turbo using Mr Muscle foaming oven cleaner, for under £5 and free up your VNT mechanism.
My Audi A3 110 tdi was dropping into limp mode up the steepest of hills due to deposit build up of carbon on the turbo vanes and the actuator not having its full range of moment.
Important: Only do this on the cast iron side! The Sodium Hydroxide will eat through aluminium on the cold side.
Tried this yesterday on 1998 A3 Tdi and results have been great. Couldn't remove EGR completely but still got the pipe down deep and it has worked. Huge difference in performance and I can now hear the turbo spinning up again. Worth trying. Cheers for the video. Used B&M Dr Clean
***** glad you had a good result :D
Thanks for the video. I did this last Saturday with my 2005 Mk 5 Golf 2.0 TDI 4 motion.
It has been going into "limp mode" for several years when accelerating uphill or other random times.
VW garage did diagnostic and told me I needed a new turbo and wanted 1700 Euro for the job.
I figured I would try this first.
I do have an EGR so I had to remove the EGR cooler and the plastic intake ducting. (5mm, 6mm allen, and T30 torx)
It took about 2 hours to get everything off. ( I went slow and cautious, could do it again all under 1.5 hours)
Used entire can of oven Super U brand oven cleaner (I live in France)
It never foamed up out of the hole but fumes poured out. I worked the lever and yes it did get a bit more movement and easier after a few jiggles.
Buttoned it all back together and YES! no more limp mode !!! Horse on it up to 4500 RPM and all good. POWER is back.
Thanks CarAnd Mechanical. Great video.
Hi, i think i have the same issue... im curious to know if your engine is/was the BKD 2.0 TDI?
It is very likely that it goes into limp mode, due to over boost - waste gate or variable vane stuck! I'm not familiar in details with the 2.0 TDI, so make sure the actuator moves with absolutely no restriction.
I have the same car as you mate. Can you do this with a DPF ?
@@Pixelkill3R I have a bkd engine, wondering how good this technique is for cleaning the turbo. Mine has high mileage and just bought it
@@matthewellis9885 haven't tried it. She's runs ok if I don't push it. Just haven't had the time. Consequently the cars mot is up soon and most likely won't pass. End of the road. Guilia Quadrafoglio next 💪
What a great video and thanks for sharing. I did this procedure on my VW Golf AHF engine and it freed the turbo up nicely, restoring the low power issue I was getting under 2000RPM. I had a sticky spot in the actuator but after about an hour of treatment with moving it about occasionally, the sticking actuator began to operate smoothly. It's now super smooth and the car is running great again.
Glad this worked for you, really happy it's still working for so many people and saving tons.
I did this today, worked pretty well. In addition, while the intake manifold was off, I cleaned it with oven cleaner as well. My personal recommendation is buy the cheap stuff next to that yellow bottle. For this application, the yellow bottle will not take a wd-40 nozzle and therefore no red straw. Between, the EGR delete, manifold cleaning, and exhaust side cleaning, no more limp mode, now only EGR High flow codes...I need a tune.
This method works ! I have a mk1 Leon 1.9tdi that was over boosting. I have a turbo boost gauge fitted to my car, which showed that my boost levels were approximately 0.5 bar higher than what they should when under load . I used Mr muscle in the same manner as the video and the cars boost levels are back to normal. When I pressed the actuator rod in I thought it was OK before I put Mr muscle through the hot side of the turbo. But after 20 mins of it been in there , it felt much better . one thing to remember is that the aluminum oil feed hose is right next to where the egr outlet post is on the turbo casting, I used a rag to cover it up as Mr muscle is quite nasty stuff. Thanks for the video in the first place, a great guide for people to see.
plzz tell me how u did this? i have leon 1.9 tdi i wanna try this to my turbo...tell me, u put Mr Muscle into pipe that goes below EGR valve?the long pipe that EGR is connected to form botom side? i read on some forums people disabmmle exaust to get to the turbo, but this way is much easier, and u can btw clean and EGR too...so please tell me how u do this? ty very much, and sry about my bad english...regards
Hi, you will have to take the egr pipe off that fits between the small turbo outlet flange and the egr valve. You can then use a piece if plastic tube that fits into the Mr muscle can and you will have you poke it down into the turbo like on the video. You are best to remove the egr valve by undoing the 3 bolts that holds it on and cleaning it when off the car as it will be very oilly and thick. Thanks
Thank you, like a new car again. Just finished 40 minute run, slowly for first 5 mins then onto motorway. After about 20mins it stopped smoking completely.Really never would have thought £3 oven cleaner would do the trick. Saved £250 on a new turbo.
Hi
This method definitely works have just done on my A4 B7. what garages quoted me that I need a new turbo at the cost of £700.... Thanks to the guy who thought of this
Icky Rana did you do this via the egr as well?
Was this a petrol or diesel? Would this work on. B6 A4 2006
@@enigmamusic6610 you can't tell by the disruption of the title or the sound of the engine?
Its work!!! My actuator was hard to move.. but after using the oven cleaner its moved much more freely and after starting up the car didnt go to limp mode!!
Thanks for this amazing trick!
Glad it helped man.
Limp mode came back after 2 month.. most of the time on a rising road. For now I have to make the trick again. Fortunetly i bought a cleand 1749vb 😝
I did this on my 1.9 ALH and it worked great , the actuator was stuck in one position and now it works freely , I didn’t find Mr muscle oven cleaner but I used a similar product that had sodium hydroxide .
Be careful when removing the two bolts they might break .
Thanks for the video .
Great stuff nice job hopefully given the car a new lease of life.
what oven cleaner did you use? if you don't mind me asking.
I thought I tell you my updated , after trying this out after a while the turbo geometry still got stuck and I repeated the procedure but with no luck , what i did was take off the turbo , open it and clean it and that that fixed it , it wasn't a very difficult task to do just you need to use the right tools and some heat with some bolts , cleaning the geometry it's worth it only if the turbo doesn't lose oil and the propellers and axle are fine.
Thanks mate you saved me 1200£ in a new turbo. It really works!
Really glad it helped.
Well done! Absolutely helpful staff. Just done it on my Ford Focus 2007 diesel. Instead of replacing the turbo for $1500-2000.this helped to restore my turbo to a new condition. Absolutely the best money I’ve saved!
Which ends did you put the Mr mussel in . Was you able to do it from the top of engine or underneath. What was your problems to begin with. Really need some help
I did this on my pd150 Golf and it has changed my car it runs a load better the VNT was gritty as described in the begining and by an hour it was smooth I worked the VNT every 10 mins, I shall be doing this again when my car needs it thanks
Great always happy when this save people money and more importantly gets the car working as it should again.
I used your procedure on a 2000 TDI Beetle. I ended up using Easy Off Oven Cleaner w Lye. I had a CEL that gave me a P1557 code, over boost caused by the vanes being stuck open. I used your the more the better technique. Cost was $4 U.S. Thanks,
Dave.
That's great news!
Also regarding the Easy Off does it also contain NaOH? If so I can add a message to the video and description as I think that will help a lot of US guys out.
Easy Off make a version with & without, I used the version with Na!Ho
Hello Can I use Wynn turbo cleaner over there ?
+Mateusz K give it a try!
Big diesel fan and user here. To all of you, simpler solution. Get engine hot, prepare deionised water in spray, open hose after MAF, right before side cold of turbo, get engine to 2500 RPM and spray water, slowly. It clean shit out of it exhaust valves and turbocharger.
Hmmmm
Hmmm x 2 🤔
EGR valves & VNT systems can be troublesome in most cars that have them, so I'm glad my car doesn't have either. The downside of that is that I have no way of accessing the 'hot' side of the turbo (the turbine), but I run my Saab on super unleaded and it gets an "Italian tune" pretty much every time I drive it lol. ❗❗❗❗ DO NOT use this stuff on the 'cold' side (compressor) which is almost entirely made of zinc & aluminium castings❗❗❗❗ Use Wynns turbo cleaner - I've done a video to show you how. Good information, chap.
Haha! Had to give my 2007 1.9Tid Vector Vert an ‘Italian Tune’ this morning after renewing front section of exhaust last night (flexi joint blown).
Didn’t seem to like the change and wouldn’t go above 3000RPM. Sorted now 🔧⚙️💥🤩
Going to do this tomorrow on my 2006 bmw e90 320d.
One thing to remember, If you haven't blanked your egr valve then you need to 1st as the cleaner will get drawn into the inlet manifold through the engine and that wouldn't do it any good imo.
My Egr is blanked so I should be fine. I might make s video myself showing my diy delete.
Tried this on my A6 AWX, saved me a lot of work removing and cleaning the turbo. Now car is more responsive,goes more smooth and no sticking. Thanks
Nice, I have the occasional limp mode for 10 years on my A4 AWX, will probably try this 😄
@@Bakanelli did it work??
Nice vid. One point for people to bear in mind, and this is from personal experience, if your turbo is the original, or mileage is high, be aware of over revving as you might well blow the oil seals on the turbo shaft, and then you´ve got one big job in front of you!! If you´re seeing blue smoke on start up etc. then your turbo seals are probably on the way out.
After two weeks, still perfect
Golf 4 tdi
The variable geometry of my Seat car was gripped and it was hard to move the lever that moves the blades of the variable geometry.
I have used this method and the problem has completely disappeared, the lever now moves smoothly and I have not had to disassemble the entire turbo, which is several hours of work.
The method is very effective now just waiting for it to be durable.
but that the disassembly and assembly of this method is very simple and counting that I have to remove the egr, that I have it functional, it takes 10 or 15 min more time to let Mr Muscle act.
In 1 hour it is finished.
Thank you so much for sharing it with us.
After more than a month it still works good
Golf 4 tdi 220 HP -( No cat and block EGR)
Not a good idea to block the EGR!.
Doing it right now on my Wife's 03 Jetta, finger crossed. Thanks for the video!
How did it go?
It worked, she would go into limp mode on the highway running uphill. I'm sure it won't happen now. The engine raps all the way up to 5k now. Her wagon has 286k but my sedan has 430k miles and mine is way worse, i can't wait to mine too. Thanks again, until i saw your video i though the onky way was to loosen the tail pipe.
Going to clean the EGR on Sunday
Might as well do both at same time
Thank You very much for this, now my turbo have very good condition! :)
Absolutely brilliant video, thanks for taking the time to make this!
It works perfect on my golf 4 tdi with blocked egr. thanks
Have you seen my channel yet?
@@BMACVAGS love your channel
tried and tested 100% works cheers
Thanks Mate, will try this on my a4 2001 1.9 TDI 130pd 😉
May be worth jamming some rag into the EGR hole to stop the foam coming back out, when i did mine i found i couldn't get much cleaner in with that still open but when that hole was blocked up i got nearly 3/4 of a tin into the exhaust manifold/Turbo which did the trick :) (the Actuator was almost Instantly smoother)
+K2edg Good point, although I was concerned with if it could travel up as far at the Alu bits. So went with what I thought/hoped was safer.
In typical belt and braces fashion i tested it on a degrease/clean bit of the cylinder head before putting any in the exhaust manifold, after an Hour it washed off without causing any damage.
I was a little concerned it had filled the bore, so I did remove the Glow plugs and hand crank it over just to be 100% sure but nothing came out.
Just one more thing i did while spraying it in was to turn the impeller wheel gently (not forgetting the tube may need retracting slightly) just so the whole wheel was covered as i didn't want an unbalanced hot side wheel finishing off my Turbo's bearings.
It's a great trick. Thanks for sharing, it saved me a day of pain trying get the turbo off.
No problem, and thanks for detailed feedback like this! I am sure it will benefit other people.
Yep getting the engine out and the turbo off later down the line the turbo was the biggest pain to separate for various reasons.
this does work, but you do run the risk of burning the rubber seal inside the Turbo,
Cheers for the video! Giving this a go on my A4 b6 hoping it works as well for me as you 😀
This is a temporary solution , I tried it but after a few months it will get stuck again , the best solution is to remove the turbo and take the hot side apart and clean it , just make pictures when you tear it down .
I have been wanting to do this for a while, but I was wondering, since the MrMuscle comes out of the egr port, isnt it also going in the cylinder head since the manifold exhaust ports are lower than the top of the egr port ? Im scared it would damage the head or even go in the motor.
An excellent point. It's gonna depend on the geometry of your EGR system. If the valve is closer to the head than it is the turbo, then I'd have to agree that there is a danger of the product getting into the head and you defo do not want that as sodium hydroxide will 'dissolve' the zinc and aluminium that make up the head casting and potentially do serious damage.
@@CycloneCyd Hi, its working on 2004, seat alhambra 1.9 tdi without damaging anything? Best regards!!
@@b3nniy have you fixed the problem? I have the same car!!
Hi Jake, I can't seem to reply or tag you in this but wanted to reply.
If the vane cleaning was unsuccessful it may need a follow up, assuming that is the issue, there may be various issues such as the actuator position, fuelling, the equivalent in your car of the N75, vacuum leaks etc...
Hopefully you can get to the bottom of the issue, but just in case one option to consider would be an MBC.
CarAndMechanical ..Great video bro😎👍
I left mine over night and the turbo worked fine the next day.
P0234 fault code can be fixable with that way? Mechanic told me my turbo charger should be changed. Should I try this before? My car doesn’t go limp home mode yet, but engine menagement light on.
I did this with some cheap brand oven cleaner and it cured the limp mode for about a week then it was back so got done real deal mr muscle to try, 2001 golf with ASV engine
Forgot to say at that point it still had EGR I’ve since blocked one end but put the pipe back on as apparently it needs to be present to pass an MOT now?
Glad you've got it sorted - the new MOT rules do state it's a fail if removed. On an unrelated note have you got an engine cover? I find they tend to tidy the engine bay quite nicely.
This also works on mondeos and jaguars as it’s the 2.0 Diesel engine and there the same 😉👍👍
Which kind of way did you take to inflate the foam into the turbo? May be the intake air hose? I got a 2006 Ford Mondeo
2.2 Tdci.
Thanks!
Hi there you have to get it into the exhaust side and when it’s in there you need to move the actuator arm up and down as much as you can until it becomes really really lose 👍 then run it for half an hour ish just to clean it out and then you need to get the spray copper grease with the straw fitting and spray as much into the impeller as you can again moving the actuator arm as much as you can because it’s a anti seize grease and it withstands extremely high temperatures,, I hope this helps,,👍
@@forddoctorforddoctor5918 Thanks for all, I'll try when it will be warmer. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for this pal,I am about to try this on my car
Going to try this tomorow cheers m8
Great reviews so far! What other components will I need to disconnect? I believe that going in through the "hot" side, I most likely will have to remove the EGR valve on top...will I need to remove the EGR cooler? Wondering if I will need to get additional coolant?
This weekend I was on a trip and 30 mins from home (thankfully) I had to turn back home and use our other vehicle because limp mode would not allow me to go more than 30mph up the hill!! UGH!!
We have an Audi A3. Turbo is making a sew along noise on acceleration. No loss of power. No smoking.! Been told it could be a dry bearing in the turbo. Would this work for that?
Great video. Nice one. Got a mk4 PD150...just for future reference.
Thanks I will try this hopefully I can remove my egr system haven't tried that before. But my limp mode is annoying and no codes
Is there easier access to the hot side of the turbo from under neath, whilst doing an oil change?
Great vid, thanks
Hiya, I've got a 2004 Skoda Superb1.9TDi which has only done 99,500 miles.The "Emission Workshop" light has appeared on the dash board and I'm told by an Automobile Technician, that it could be the turbo vanes sticking and causing problems. However, I think this method could perk it up a bit. Could you tell me where the Turbo is situated on the Skoda,please? Thanks
what about the residue (from. the mr. muscle)? should i be concerned about the catalytic converter?
I am going to have a go at this tomorow.If it workds its fantastic. Will post follow up.
Hope this worked, please report back. Fingers crossed.
I don't understand, once you put the foam inside the turbo, do you leave for 1h the foam sit there ? Then after that what do you do, clean it or it will evaporate by itself? What's the next step after that?
Let it work it's magic then push it through the entire exhaust system by running the car with high boost
Is it worth doing this on a car that is running fine? I.e. no limp mode or nothing, but just to give it a clean?
Important to a have an expanding foam to clean everywhere
im about to do the same on my mk4 golf tdi pd130, I'm worried about putting the tube and spraying into the wrong bit. I'm happy to insert the tubing into the downpipe, just concerned i'll start spraying into the wrong bit. any tips?
I have a Audi a4 2.0 tdi I will definitely give this a go my Turbo is on the left hand side but hope this will really help think my vanes are sticky I have a EGR delete. And blanked off would I need to unplug the dpf and spray it into the turbo
That will block up your dpf or cat. Best way is to use a sqirty bottle with water in. And squirt diredtly into your air intake. It steam cleans all the internal parts ov your motor.Do this a 2000 rpm when engine is hot. Ever seen a blown head gasket. The piston that is taking the water in is steam cleaned when the head is removed. They inject f1 cars with water to stop carbon build up.
Look it up???
I gave an A3 jetta TDI with stock EGR. Like yours, mine's dropping to limp mode often due to smudge. Where would you suggest filling with the sodium hydroxide based oven cleaner, so as to clean out the turbo ?
Is it safe for catalytic converter to run all the dirt and Mr.Muscle through it?
Hi dude,whats the difference after cleaning the hot side of the turbo with Mr Muscle?some negative effects after cleaning or else.I want to do the same on my Golf 4 Tdi.Also can you tell me because i stopped the egr valve from the computer unit if i put mr muscle into the intake to the hot side of the turbo is there a possibility mr muscule to go into my engine thru EGR and the intake pipe and harm the engine inside?Thank you.Best regards
Did you use up a whole can of this oven foam for this treatment? Can it also be used for EGR cleaning or not?
Can this cleaner damage oring and all rubber inside turbine?
Great video. Really useful.
Can I do this with a DPF and connected EGR ?
I tried to do this but I can't get the lower egr pipe off. I really want to do it badly.
will it damage piston rings? turbo itself?
a mechanic mare has vagcom and did full scan on car which showed over boost..ive used wynns/ and archoil cleaner . now mr muscle .soom carbon came out on heavy acceleration in 1st and 2nd . but not as much as others who have used mr muscle .
Where are the burnt trash go.Does it damage engine somehow.
Any ideas how to clean a Turbo Petrol on a 1.4 TSI GT? I would purchase a turbo cleaning spray from Ebay, but don't know where I would need to use it within the engine bay?.
Would this work on a 2009 Mondeo Zetec 2.0l
Same symptoms,Going into limp mode on hills and on the motorway,
Fault indicator showing Turbo actuator ?
I don't have access to egr, it is too hard to remove. Can the exhaust side of the turbo be accessed through the exhaust Flexi pipe instead. Maybe using a very long silicone pipe!? I'm mostly worried for the foam to go somewhere else (as I've heard it is flammable), or not to melt some sensors.
Additionally, is there anything that can be spayed/injected after the MAF that can clean the hot side of the turbo? Some say a dog cleaner should work, but... Doesn't anything get burnt in the engine, then it reaches the turbo's exhaust side?!
Hi ,will this method work on a non VNT-Turbo ? I mean ,will my turbo get better anyhow ,even if it's not vnt .
Thanks mate, i've subbed
I've done this to my seat leon mk1 tdi 110 asv engine. Done exactly the same kept pressing the actuator filling it up etc but now my car feels sluggish and laggy now :/
It feels worse after doing this? I'm wondering if something isn't sealed back up properly giving you a boost leak.
What was the car like before?
Do I need to keep adding mr muscle every 10 minutes or so or is it just spray it in and work every 10 mins?
Although this will seem to work at first, I heard doing this eats up seals and can build up semi dissolved carbon sludge left behind the turbo vanes after the process. The only way is to strip it down and clean it properly.
I think it's a subjective one tbh, I did this and the turbo was fine for over 40k miles - my A3 used in this video was written off with over 230k miles on it and ran perfectly and as far as I know it was the original turbo before a transit van decided he had too much faith in his brakes on the M1....
With the seals I have heard it can happen but I've also seen theories if they go from this they are not far from going anyway, I agree the ideal solution is a rebuild and full clean but it's not within everyone's time/ability and this gives things a second lease of life.
Also regarding build up - might be worth a repeat clean, which depending on your viewpoint could be an issue with seals but honestly I've never heard more then 2nd/3rd hand of this being a very rare issue.
Did you remove the cat - I would be suspect of the chemicals killing the cat ?
Hi i know this was a while ago but im in desperate need cheaped out and bought a second-hand turbo until im in a better position financially but the boost dosnt kick in until like 3000rpm on my old turbo kicked in at like 2000rpm my actuator lever dosnt move all the way down is this what is causeing the late boost issue i had a overboost code also
Hi there. Thanks for this video.
I think this is the problem I'm having with my 150hp 5 cylinder 2.5tdi T4 transporter (the 150hp tdi has a variable vane turbo).
The turbo seems to hesitate when I accelerate in 3rd and then suddenly takes off with à great puff of black smoke from the exhaust. She won't hold speed with the cruise control going uphill on the motorway but she will accelerate if I put my foot down - again she takes off after hesitation with that puff of smoke.
I've deleted the egr so I guess If I remove the blanking plate I can inject the Mr Muscle through there. I'd appreciate any advice.
Hopefully this helps, are you sure your MAF is ok too? Both can cause fun and games.
Basically this is pretty easy, it's more of a pain finding the tubing, also no harm repeating it - I wouldn't however leave it to soak for hours.
I've heard the odd case of bad turbos having seals eaten by this but they were well on the way out.
CarAndMechanical
Thanks. Oven cleaner is in. I find the actuator moves but doesn't go very far.
It should loosen up the more you work it - I assume you've long since bolted it all back up. Notice any difference?
CarAndMechanical thanks for taking the time to reply.
Once the engine cover is off it's all easy to get to on a AXG 2.5tdi Everything can be accessed from above. I abandoned the idea of going through the EGR blanking plate. Unbolting the exhaust down pipe from the turbo like on your Audi was a lot easier. Once the oven cleaner was into the turbo I let it sit for a couple of hours and wiggled the actuator rod every 10-15mins as you said.
Seems have to have improved things. Turbo kicks in sooner for sure. But she still won't hold 130kmh in cruise control on motorway hills. I didn't feel much movement on the actuator - probably les than 5mm. Even though it seemed quite smooth it was still pretty tough on the fingers. Should it be easier and have more travel?
It's better, but I think I need to get her looked at by a pro. Still not quite right. Maybe the actuator is ajustable - I think I read that somewhere.
PS
Just found this link on UA-cam but Ive no idea how to get it to do this so I can check it
ua-cam.com/video/scnmRsCArXo/v-deo.html
If you gained movement it sounds like it was part of the issue and sometimes the vanes can be really carbon'd up.
The VNT system sounds like it wasn't working fully before and maybe not so the car is struggling to hit expected boost at certain points - it would be worth repeating, the process but I'll throw out some other potential issues.
Vac lines - if they are split or vac is weak it'll take longer to get the turbo to the low position but also open the vanes for high boost which could overspeed the turbo (which is why the ecu has limp mode to prevent overboost).
MAF sensor - get VAGCOM (VCDS lite, a laptop and a £5 ebay cable go a long way) or if you have an android phone then use Torque pro and look at the air readings, fuelling it based off the metered air seen and I've had MAF and VNT issues at the same time. VCDS shows fuelling in mg/r and it gives you a target and actual - if you see it all over or slow then it can be the MAF, using Torque I think it's in G/S so the numbers are different to VCDS but the good thing with Torque is you can have it on all the time in your car and when the cars performing well note the numbers, when it's performing badly note the numbers it'll tell you if the MAF is misbehaving.
Last thing as you've mentioned is the turbo could be out of adjustment and you need to adjust the stopscrew, I've been lucky and never needed to do this but if you do note your start position and adjust 1/2 turn at a time (some good guides online www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/turbo-stop-screw-adjustment-tdi-engine-zip-tie-engine-hesitation/)
hi mate any advice on doing this on a 2.0 Tdi A3 ? mine is doing exactly the same as yours was , but my turbo is a nightmare to access as its right down the back of the engine
It was tight on mine but I guess just check all of your access first. If you have an EGR it'll probably need removing.
Doesnt it damage the bearings?
Great video thanks for sharing
is there any difference from each side of turbo to spray...as in my case it's easier from the intake side....vw touran..thanks
Hey, for how long does this treatment help. Is it a permanent solotuion or do you have to repate it the next year? I have the same problem with limp mode and will try this metode. thanks
It's a bit of a "how long is a piece of string" answer I'm afraid as carbon build up will vary even between 2 of the same model/spec cars due to driving style/distance etc...
Once done if this was the issue you faced then at least once a week open the car up in a few gears and hit redline or as near as (if you can safely). With the low down torque sometimes the turbo's never get fully spun up.
Would this work from the exhaust/dpf side
Good video thanks
Hi. can you do this with petrol turbo?
Will the blown through Mr muscle have any affected on the catalytic converter or dpf? Don't want it to mess up either of those
Nope as it is flammable it's burn off and blow through, Mr Muscle is very similar (although some differences) to turbo cleaning products although it has a much lower NOAH level then say Innotech. However those kits cost quite a bit so I chose this option after reading about others doing it.
I'm in the middle of doing this to my 1996 A4 and there is almost no movement in my actuator, anyone got any suggestions?
how to do it on skoda the turbo is hidden on the back down side, acces is very limited even from below :/
petrol 1.8t B6 A4 2006. been told that previous owner had "turbo actuator " "cleaned up " any advice on petrol a4 loss of power "
i cleaned out an EGR valve with mr muscle it really is a good cleaner. i want to clean up and old gearbox to get off all the grime and muck thats built off over the years. will mr muscle work?
+michael jagger I'd just use GUNK or any other degreaser tbh, something like muc off etc... The oven cleaner is very aggressive stuff.
With the gearbox i just sanded it with some light paper as the aluminium oxidized and had some pitting looks nice now. It was very dirty at all.
Wonderfulll, thanks for the ideea.
I will try.it
Is there any risk of damage to the catalytic converter from the remains of the mr muscle that will get blown through when you put it back together and spin it up?
the exhaust temperature will burn off anything remaining and it will happen in seconds. I'd expect it will clean out the cat a bit and blow it out the back.
It's not the same but there are industry solutions that are more concentrated if anything to deal with the same issue.
CarAnd Mechanical i agree with you but before it gets to go to the exhaust, it goes through catalytic so do you think it will not do any damage?
If it did any I would expect it to minimal.
Now from a totally different POV the Cat's restrict performance anyway and I've done away with mine.
However I don't think it would damage it and have neither heard of this too. There are a few kits out there for doing this kind of thing with a higher concentration of NAOH but instead of like £3 cost £40-50 +
Are you in a Country where you get smog tested?
no we don't get smog test. lucky
Really good video. How do you know the hoes is going into the turbo housing and not into one of the manifold areas? I'd love to do this on a SEAT Alhambra 1.9 TDI 115 brake horsepower pump diesel tomorrow .
+andysuthhero I'll be working on the car shortly so will check how things lined up, this was done a few years ago so memory is a bit rusty. Off the top of my head I think it was kind of inline and the foam would fill from the bottom up so you see it with time to stop before it would get near the ports.
Our thinking too was anything there would be burned off and through the cat in no time, only concern was not getting it on anything ALU.
You are awesome
Sounds like this helped then?
Great ideas
you think this is ok for the turbo seals?
Absolutely not. Same use for oven cleaner on EGR to bring them up new. Oven cleaner on o rings and seals is death
I want to do this on my 3.0 cdti vectra plus EGR. No idea how as can't get a manual for it
Hi Lewis. My 2006 Golf 2.0 TDi sometimes feels down on power and at other times pulls hard. I've got a feeling the turbo could do with a clean. What does limp mode feel like on a TDi? I'm trying to figure out if it's going into limp mode
Limp mode or "Limp home mode" is the car cutting power because something reports as being outside of thresholds from the sensors. For example overboosting can cause limp mode to be activated to protect the turbo and the engine.
It feels like the car just has no acceleration and is much much slower then normal. I would recommend getting VAGCOM and running a fault code check. Cables are like £5-10 and the freeware version of the software is available from wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page
driving normal then at high revs or 75mph you will feel a total loss of power and don't get it back until you turn off and on a car
stephen kilgannon I see what you mean. Well it's bizarre because I've recently bought an obd scan tool and found no fault codes and since running a couple of tanks of premium diesel through the car the turbo seems to be boosting fine now. Even before this I can't say I had a total loss of power more very little torque sometimes. I'm going to get a genuine Rosstech cable soon as the 3rd party ones won't work with a mk5 apparently
you only had carbon build up. if you give your car a good hard driving every once in a while with clean fuel it will burn up all the carbon blocking the air. the only reason your car was slugish was the carbon was blocking the intake hence no codes....
stephen kilgannon thanks for taking the time to reply Stephen. I suspected the same, and hope it keeps working. I did want to try the Mr Muscle fix but I can't see the turbo in the engine bay of the Mk5 Golf. Do you know if it's accessed from below the car?
I just done this today to my Audi A3 1.9 tdi PD 130 and before the car was going into limp Mode once the car was taking upto 100mph, i done this method and my car does not move l, its like its in limp Mode all the time. i dont know what i done wrong, could you please help
thanks
i have the same PD. did you solved the problem?
Do this while engine is cold?
It was great mate just remapped it spoiled up okay but always thought it's being held back and thought can't do it any harm doing this cause I guarantee no ones done it too this car so I did it soon as I went to put foot down it felt sluggish and laggy then it's picks up when before soon as touched throttle it would go?
So you are still getting boost but later in the range? If it's later it sounds like a boost leak and suspect make something wasn't sealed back up ok. Just to be sure I'd also get Vagcom on and run a code check.
If I was to do this on a golf tdi would I just squirt it down the egr pipe and let it work it's self down into the turbo?
As long as it's not getting to the alu engine parts you are fine, but personally prefer to remove the EGR and do it that way as you can see when it foams up.