Every day is a skool day 😂. But seriously ... I try to learn something new every day. It's become very important to me since a *serious* head injury 5 years ago (I'm a PTSD sufferer now).
@@CycloneCyd Sorry to hear about your head injury. Going through something similar with vertigo. Great vid especially when people run the cheapest gas in a turbo car!
I can't believe the difference after using this. I bought my motor and about 3 months later, it seemed to lose its power on acceleration . I thought I'd give this a go and followed directions . It feels like when I bought it again . Much appreciated for the video
Thanks for this video Cyd, I have a 1.2 TSI, that showed all sorts of problems I replaced the 2 sensors. That helped, but sometimes the engine felt gutless, I used Winns to clean the turbo and I get 5-10% better fuel consumption and no loss of power.
Were you having an actuator code come up EPC and engine light on dash and going into limp mode I've cleaned my actuator and having the same issue and been told it's the turbos vanes so going to try this and hope it works
For best results clean both compressor & turbine sides of the turbo. Compressor side with any kind of solvent based spray or product as used. Turbine (hot) side with mr muscle- especially good at freeing sticky VNT mechanisms
That would be crazy to take the turbo out just to clean it. Lol I just took mine out in my BMW X1 and it wasn't fun at all. Trying to get my new head gasket in it and be back on the road. Good video I appreciate it.
Go figure, I stop to get some caliper grease , and low and behold a new turbo and intake valve cleaner that foams! Its from gumout which is a very decent brand here in the USA. Tomorrow, well today...almost 3am , ill be doing rear brakes. Then cleaning my turbo, my throttle body, and hopefully the intake valves.
I would advise against sticking a lolly stick or anything else solid down into the compressor. The vanes of the rotor are easily damaged and, once you've done that, repair becomes much more involved and expensive.
Hence the advice to use a coffee stirrer. The vanes aren't THAT delicate, but it is true they can be easily damaged if you're kak-handed with something like a screwdriver.
You gotta pull it apart if you want to clean the vanes properly. I'm gonna try an Italian tune up first. Get it nice and hot and burn the crud away. If that doesn't work I'll pull it apart. I don't trust cleaners and solvents as some can ruin parts.
I've just bought a KO4 turbo for my golf GTI I'd bought some turbo cleaner for a different car but never used it, if I spray that into my turbo off the car ( as a preventive measure for when fitting ) how would I remove all the residual turbo cleaner as a diyer?
NEVER use Mr Muscle (or other oven cleaners) in the way shown here. If you remember any chemistry from scool, this is why: 2Al(s) + 2NaOH(aq) + 6H2O → 2Na+(aq) + 2[Al(OH)4]- + 3H2(g) and Zn+2NaOH→Na2ZnO2+H2
What would happen if mr muscle hot in the combustion chamber ? Reason I ask I wanted to remove map sensor and spray it down intake hope for it to reach egr valve ?
Great video. I have a 350 CID diesel on my boat. The compressor vanes are filthy. Two questions. 1) Why did you disconnect the air inlet to the throttle body first? 2) Is this product OK to use on a diesel? I am worried that the product will wipe the lubricant from the cylinder walls. Any idea or experience with using this product on diesels?
There shouldn’t be a problem using this method on either diesel and petrol turbo’d engines. To properly clean the ‘dirty sude’(exhaust) you really need to separate the the turbo and clean and inspect the VNT side. I would suggest any form of maintenance regards clesning(the method shown here and the ‘longer winded’ removal scenario would make things run/perform better..
@@CycloneCyd I cleaned it exactly as you did here. After about a day I could feel better boost, more blow off sounds, and a slightly deeper roar from the turbo. All I can say is thank you! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Awesome vid - done this few times already. But! Today I heard a loud bang when spraying. Engine was shaking a lot before the bang happened.. Turned the car off & on again and it idles ok. Even did the 10x up to 3K rpm to get rid of the soot and it sounded fine. Did I knocked something out!
I take it you were spraying this into the turbo while the engine was running? That does make the engin run rough. It's possible you 'swamped' the cylinders and caused a misfire. That's one reason why I advocate cleaning with the engine off. Unburnt fuel and cleaner can get into the cat and if the cat is hot it can ignite. Cats are kind of tough yet delicate at the same time and such ignition can blow them apart. If doing it with th eengine running, spray in short pulses.
@@CycloneCyd Wow, this explains so much. Thank you. Need to get my cat checked in that case. At least it's not the turbo as I thought! And the bang must be a misfire, it was quite loud and metallic, but the car still runs and boosts... okish.
Where does all the dirt that comes off the turbo end up? Doesn't it all just end up in the engine (in the cylinder) and cause problems there ? Particularly if you spray a full can in through the air intake as per Wynn's instructions?
Thanks as always Cyd, I'm probably going to do this on my 9-3 tomorrow. Might clean off the throttle body/maf again and put my parted 9-3 black coils packs find on.. (I got all 4 black tops from a guy who didn't know anything about Saab for $20.) Also, is there any way you could describe to me an appropriate amount of (seemingly) motor oil inside the TB intake hose? Last time I cleaned TB, I noticed there was a pretty good film of very very sticky oil in there.
That was a good buy. Yeah, get those black tops fitted and just keep the others as spares. Yeah I get an oil film on the TB intake hose. Mostly it comes from the inlet mani. The PCV valve is in the mani where it contacts the head and it breathes into the mani from the cam chamber. The cam chamber is full of oil mist most of the time thanks to the cams being lubed by splash feeding. If you take your TB off you'll find the mani has a pool of oil at the bottom. Use a turkey baster to get it out. Some of this oil mist gets into the intake hose with the air pulses that naturally occur in any IC engine. The only way to stop it is to install a catch can, which I am planning to do and there will be a video.
I'd like to clean my disco 2 but i'm a little apprehensive because I don't have a scanner to delete anything. I would have thought that if you use the whole can, there would be a lot of the product sat inside the turbo (don't think it evaporates), then it would be sucked through into the engine on start-up. Do I have anything to worry about.?
If you spray cleaner into the turbo with the engine running, then due to the speed the cleaner passes through the turbo it is bound to take much more cleaner to do the job. Wynns would suggest doing it this way because then you have to buy a new can every time you clean your turbo. Do it as I suggest with the engine OFF - you don't need so much then. Also you can disconnect the output pipe from the compressor and stuff some rag in to catch the dirty cleaner. Give it a final rinse with some conventional carb cleaner and leave it to dry out before putting it back together and starting up. You should have no trouble that way. Get yourself one of these (amzn.to/3ctONXV) and download Torque Pro onto your phone (Android) and for a total of about 15 quid you've got a OBD2 code reader and much much more.
Will this process cleans the wastegate as well. As my vauxhall combo 1.3 diesel wastegate is sticking and van won't go over 3000 rpm and there is a fault code turbocharger boost pressure sensor
NO, this cleans the compressor ONLY. Test your sensor (try cleaning it first ua-cam.com/video/pgPCrioK-6A/v-deo.html) and wastegate to make sure it's not stuck. Don't forget to check the wiring too.
My turbo progressively got clogged, the mechanic said he unclogged the sensor and now he get no error from the car, but it is still stuck. I bought this product as a last ditch effort, hoping that simply the valve was clogged and the turbo got stuck because it wasn't told to work anymore. Finger crossed, i'll let you know! Do you suggest more than 2 applications? I kept driving for some months out of necessity, after the turbo stopped working.
They are. Both wheels have vanes. A compressor wheel on cold side and a turbine wheel on hot side 👍. The 'variable vanes' you get on VVT turbos are just on the hot side because it's easier to engineer because of the geometry.
The reason the wastegate doesn't get a mention is that, NO, it doesn't. that requires more drastic action. Trty running your car on 'super' and once you've got through half a tank, give it an Italian tune. That might help.
hi guys, it's philippe from france. my question is not related to the subject but I cannot find a solution to discuss it with you. my saab is a 9.3 convertible 2005 and my problem is with fault message system TC and the same for ESP. I don't know if you had a solution to these problems. I read a topic but no solution. they talk about electric cable. if you have any idea i will be very interested
I'm assuming you also have an ABS light on? One of the common faults these suffer is an internally broken wire to a rear WSS. The break is usually close to where the cables jump from body to rear suspension. Unplug the WSS and connect together the wires on the body harness. Then find those wires at the big ABS connector and measure the continuity with an ohmeter. if you use the buzzer function you can also waggle the wires along their length and listen if the buzzer note changes or goes off. If the ABS is still okay, then it could be the clockspring in the CIM. Have you had a new clutch in the last 2 years? Also check that ALL the controls on the steering wheel are working okay (incl horn)
@@CycloneCyd Thank you very much for your answer . These problems appear from time to time, but always at the same time. For the turbo it cuts the turbo and I no longer have a turbo meter at the same time I no longer have a speedometer. Simply turning off the ignition and restarting makes the problem go away. for info it's an automatic 175hp turbo. 4 cylinders. I tell you about my life, but I am a bit alone with my problems and it feels good to speak with a person who knows the Car. I also have a message: limited power which appears the same way. the engine is running but the car does not move or is very difficult. If you have an idea ? thank you and good evening
The instructions say to do so, but I have found that one can is good for 4-5 cleans. You might have to use a bit more if it's the first time it's been done in many miles, after that it's just a matter of keeping it clean, maybe once a year. So, short answer, NO
You should be able to with repeat applications, BUT that oil has to go somewhere and it's likely to be the IC. Could you disconnect the output pipe while you clean it and catch the carp in rag?
Love your videos!! Thank you for all the great info! After you spray the cleaner, does it evaporate, drain on its own or do you have to do something to get it out? And, with the Saabs, is it fairly easy to do? I have an 06. Thanks again!
On my Saab 9-3 B207 engine , if i removed the air pipe next to the MAF sensor and sprey the turbocharger from there is it good enough cause it's much easier ?
It is rather awkward on the B207. if you want to spray from the top of the cobra pipe, then use ordinary carb cleaner. I don't think it's as effective but it will help if you do it regularly (say, once a year). It's not too difficult to remove the cobra and get at the turbo intake if you use the Wynns cleaner as it's quite a small can. It also gives you the opportunity to inspect the cobra for this problem ua-cam.com/video/bgLn14dZL3Q/v-deo.html
@@CycloneCyd Thanks for the suggestion . I'm afraid that the EML will show up ( since the turboboost never been clean before ) and I do not have a code reader ( tech 2 ) to cancel it .In case it will show up , if i disconnect the batterry ( Lets say about an hour ) will it go away ?
I'd say it has to be worth a try. You should clean the turbo periodically anyway. You're probably going to need a new actuator. I'd be trying one of these aftermarket units: bit.ly/2XATcgC105hp_actuator
Hi I been following you and thanks for the videos. I got oil leaking in turbo pipes and sirens noise from turbo to, Do you know if I can do the same on audi a3 tdi bkd engine?
It might, diesels are more prone to gumming up the compressor. Does yours have a VVT turbo? (variable vane). If so it could be the vanes gummed up on the 'hot' side. Try running it on premium diesel for a few tanks and give it a few 'italian' tunes when it's properly warmed up. Do you do mostly short (
Thanks for the video, I have got Citron Diesel car, recetly have issues (having loud noise from front of the car when i drive on motorway above 40mph) took to mechanic and he says its turbo charger faulty and needs to be replaced (but quite expensive) and i am also seeing warning Particle Filter risk of blockage , is there any way to clear this warning? Thanks
You need to drive in a manner that allows the DPF to regenerate. Usually this means a steady speed with engine warm and above 2500rpm. It usually takes around 15 minutes so a 20 mile trip up a quiet motorway should do it.
Wrong first diagnose it fix thé faults then they can regenerate thé dpf. If you have faults it wont do a regeneration of it's own. Just use a dpf cleaner after you fixed thé faults . Check the glowplugs for faults
I bought an old turbo but spray cleaned it, especially the inside of the turbo، I cleaned both the fan and the holes with anti-grease spray، is it normal for a turbo. Please answer. Thank you
Hello! Im having a issue with my car where i floor it and it needs time to pick up the gas(turbo opens later than it needs) especialy in bigger gears where i floor it,it runs great but its that delay that annoys me..Do you think this can help my problem?
Hi Jason, are you meaning something like a wastegate actuator solenoid or part of the vvt system? i had a sticky solenoid on my car when I bought it. A quick spray through with carb cleaner, let it dry and it's been okay since. For variable vane problems, no this won't help. This can only clean the 'cold' side of the turbo. For the 'hot' side, you need to find a way in somehow for the cleaner. The EGR pipework may help. If that's a no-go, fill a full tank with VPower diesel and during the tankfull give the car 3 or 4 'Italian tunes'.
@@CycloneCyd Yeah sorry it's the wastegate actuator, the rod does not move, so not sure if it's got enough vacuum to move it, tried to move it by hand, it does move but very stiff. I did pull off the vacuum hose off the end and I cudnt fell any vacuum but that was when the car is at idle so I not sure how much vacuum there is supposed to be, gonna try a handheld vacuum pump today see if it moves the rod to open the wastegate.
@@jasoncrane4624 yeah, they are hard to move by hand. Test with a vac pump first because the actuator may have a split diaphragm or other leak. If that's okay then it'll almost certainly be the solenoid that activates it.
I hate Wynns products, I placed Wynns Dry Fuel in 3 cars all started to run rough. I got the AA out and they drain the fuel tanks and with fuel prices thee way they are I had to dispose 150Liters of fuel. SO I lost £300 worth of the Juice. They all ran fine thereafter. I then decided to use the Wynns EGR Diesel cleaner and the emissions light came on, the DPF filter and turbo needed changing cost of £1500 plus labour. I contacted Wynns adn the response was talk to the hand. Never will I buy there rubbish products again!
all that dirt inside your turbo is going inside and its going to destroy it.. i rather clean ig manually remove every parts and its good as brand new.. you dont need to be lazy not to clean it
📽 Also make sure to keep your MAP sensor clean: ua-cam.com/video/pgPCrioK-6A/v-deo.html 👍
Wow I just cleaned mine ,
I can fill the Difference 😀
Never knew you had to clean a turbocharger ... you learn something new everyday ..
Every day is a skool day 😂. But seriously ... I try to learn something new every day. It's become very important to me since a *serious* head injury 5 years ago (I'm a PTSD sufferer now).
@@CycloneCyd Sorry to hear about your head injury. Going through something similar with vertigo. Great vid especially when people run the cheapest gas in a turbo car!
I can't believe the difference after using this. I bought my motor and about 3 months later, it seemed to lose its power on acceleration . I thought I'd give this a go and followed directions . It feels like when I bought it again . Much appreciated for the video
Wynn’s is tough to get here in the states. CRC is in all the parts stores so that’s what I used. 🏁👍🏻
Thanks for this video Cyd, I have a 1.2 TSI, that showed all sorts of problems I replaced the 2 sensors. That helped, but sometimes the engine felt gutless, I used Winns to clean the turbo and I get 5-10% better fuel consumption and no loss of power.
Were you having an actuator code come up EPC and engine light on dash and going into limp mode I've cleaned my actuator and having the same issue and been told it's the turbos vanes so going to try this and hope it works
For best results clean both compressor & turbine sides of the turbo.
Compressor side with any kind of solvent based spray or product as used.
Turbine (hot) side with mr muscle- especially good at freeing sticky VNT mechanisms
Believe it or not, I've actually had really good results with Mr Muscle oven cleaner!
Mr Muscle is a brilliant cleaner. Just don't let it near any zinc or aluminium castings. It'll dissolve both metals.
@@CycloneCyd where does the dirt go? Does that get sucked into my engine when I start it ?
@@dustin1870 No, it'll end up coating the IC pipework on the inside. Better there than in the turbo. Might be worth cleaning the pipework out too.
That would be crazy to take the turbo out just to clean it. Lol I just took mine out in my BMW X1 and it wasn't fun at all. Trying to get my new head gasket in it and be back on the road. Good video I appreciate it.
Great video with an easy to understand explanation of why and how to clean a turbo. Thank you!
👍👍🎓
Go figure, I stop to get some caliper grease , and low and behold a new turbo and intake valve cleaner that foams! Its from gumout which is a very decent brand here in the USA. Tomorrow, well today...almost 3am , ill be doing rear brakes. Then cleaning my turbo, my throttle body, and hopefully the intake valves.
i used liqui moly and sprayed directly on the turbine while the engine was running
On golf 6 1.2tsi 77kw
Which Liqui Moly product?
@@CycloneCyd liqui moly drosselklappenreiniger/ throttle body cleaner
@@CycloneCyd
at idle between 2500 and idle lock 4000 rpm
I would advise against sticking a lolly stick or anything else solid down into the compressor. The vanes of the rotor are easily damaged and, once you've done that, repair becomes much more involved and expensive.
Hence the advice to use a coffee stirrer. The vanes aren't THAT delicate, but it is true they can be easily damaged if you're kak-handed with something like a screwdriver.
You gotta pull it apart if you want to clean the vanes properly. I'm gonna try an Italian tune up first. Get it nice and hot and burn the crud away. If that doesn't work I'll pull it apart. I don't trust cleaners and solvents as some can ruin parts.
Excellent video! Thank you. I’m ready to clean up mine! 💨💨💨
Great! Short and useful. Thank you, Cyclone Cyd!
You're welcome!
i love the Wynns turbo cleaner 👍
I've just bought a KO4 turbo for my golf GTI I'd bought some turbo cleaner for a different car but never used it, if I spray that into my turbo off the car ( as a preventive measure for when fitting ) how would I remove all the residual turbo cleaner as a diyer?
Not a bad video to watch. Very informative.
Thanks Francisco.
I use Mr Muscle. It would be nice to clean the exhaust side . Vw have variable vane type.
I have used Wynn turbo cleaner, with no positive results, Mr muscle Oven cleaner does the trick
kak-handed in one of your comments, have not herd that for long time, good vid Cyd 👍
😂😂😂 Hey, thanks!
I'm a fan of Mr. Muscle oven cleaner. Used that on my Mondeo while I had it.
NEVER use Mr Muscle (or other oven cleaners) in the way shown here. If you remember any chemistry from scool, this is why: 2Al(s) + 2NaOH(aq) + 6H2O → 2Na+(aq) + 2[Al(OH)4]- + 3H2(g) and Zn+2NaOH→Na2ZnO2+H2
Eh? 😂
Barley remember school let alone one subject.
Although presumably the above means "corrosive"?
@@macmcdade5071 YES, it will eat the alloy away
What would happen if mr muscle hot in the combustion chamber ? Reason I ask I wanted to remove map sensor and spray it down intake hope for it to reach egr valve ?
@@richardmathers7238 NO, don't. As above it 'eats' aluminium away.
Great video. I have a 350 CID diesel on my boat. The compressor vanes are filthy. Two questions.
1) Why did you disconnect the air inlet to the throttle body first?
2) Is this product OK to use on a diesel? I am worried that the product will wipe the lubricant from the cylinder walls.
Any idea or experience with using this product on diesels?
Actually, although I decided against showing it I also sprayed the compressor from the outlet side.
Yeah, use on diesels, no problem.
🤩good show my friend🤠. Greetings from Texas
Thank you
Thanks a lot for this useful vid. Is this way of cleaning the turbo also suitable for a diesel engine? Mine is a Golf 4 TDI 1.9 74 kW. 🙏
There shouldn’t be a problem using this method on either diesel and petrol turbo’d engines. To properly clean the ‘dirty sude’(exhaust) you really need to separate the the turbo and clean and inspect the VNT side. I would suggest any form of maintenance regards clesning(the method shown here and the ‘longer winded’ removal scenario would make things run/perform better..
@@malcolmyoung7866 thank you !
Hi any easy way to clean the turbo/vanes on the hot side? cheers
Love it mate! I’m trying the cold engine/turbo method. Let ya know how it goes. 🔥
How did you get on?
@@CycloneCyd I cleaned it exactly as you did here. After about a day I could feel better boost, more blow off sounds, and a slightly deeper roar from the turbo. All I can say is thank you! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
thank you good sir
Awesome vid - done this few times already. But! Today I heard a loud bang when spraying. Engine was shaking a lot before the bang happened.. Turned the car off & on again and it idles ok. Even did the 10x up to 3K rpm to get rid of the soot and it sounded fine. Did I knocked something out!
I take it you were spraying this into the turbo while the engine was running? That does make the engin run rough. It's possible you 'swamped' the cylinders and caused a misfire. That's one reason why I advocate cleaning with the engine off. Unburnt fuel and cleaner can get into the cat and if the cat is hot it can ignite. Cats are kind of tough yet delicate at the same time and such ignition can blow them apart.
If doing it with th eengine running, spray in short pulses.
@@CycloneCyd Wow, this explains so much. Thank you. Need to get my cat checked in that case. At least it's not the turbo as I thought! And the bang must be a misfire, it was quite loud and metallic, but the car still runs and boosts... okish.
Do you have to put water to wash off the foam ?
That turbo is so tiny lol. I like using crc intake valve and turbo cleaner. Id love to find something that foams like that here in the states.
Hi. How to remove the foam from the turbo after the cleaning. Does it evaporate or need to blow air
Nice
For the error code p0234 how is posible to clean the geometry?
Thank you
Nice, you have a SAAB!
Where does all the dirt that comes off the turbo end up? Doesn't it all just end up in the engine (in the cylinder) and cause problems there ? Particularly if you spray a full can in through the air intake as per Wynn's instructions?
It goes into the engine to be burnt.
@@CycloneCyd thanks - and that's not a problem then? Sorry - I'm a bit clueless.
@@craighousley219 no problem
On the Wynns training video says engine should be running ? Can I do my Saab 9.3 Aero petrol with engine off then restart ?
Love your video good info keep them coming 👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥
Thanks, will do!
Hi can you use me muscles cleaner as it foam based to
Thanks as always Cyd, I'm probably going to do this on my 9-3 tomorrow. Might clean off the throttle body/maf again and put my parted 9-3 black coils packs find on.. (I got all 4 black tops from a guy who didn't know anything about Saab for $20.)
Also, is there any way you could describe to me an appropriate amount of (seemingly) motor oil inside the TB intake hose? Last time I cleaned TB, I noticed there was a pretty good film of very very sticky oil in there.
That was a good buy. Yeah, get those black tops fitted and just keep the others as spares.
Yeah I get an oil film on the TB intake hose. Mostly it comes from the inlet mani. The PCV valve is in the mani where it contacts the head and it breathes into the mani from the cam chamber. The cam chamber is full of oil mist most of the time thanks to the cams being lubed by splash feeding. If you take your TB off you'll find the mani has a pool of oil at the bottom. Use a turkey baster to get it out. Some of this oil mist gets into the intake hose with the air pulses that naturally occur in any IC engine. The only way to stop it is to install a catch can, which I am planning to do and there will be a video.
@@CycloneCyd did u ever Doo the catch can
@@CycloneCyd Would excessive oil indicate excessive blow-by?
I'd like to clean my disco 2 but i'm a little apprehensive because I don't have a scanner to delete anything. I would have thought that if you use the whole can, there would be a lot of the product sat inside the turbo (don't think it evaporates), then it would be sucked through into the engine on start-up. Do I have anything to worry about.?
If you spray cleaner into the turbo with the engine running, then due to the speed the cleaner passes through the turbo it is bound to take much more cleaner to do the job. Wynns would suggest doing it this way because then you have to buy a new can every time you clean your turbo.
Do it as I suggest with the engine OFF - you don't need so much then. Also you can disconnect the output pipe from the compressor and stuff some rag in to catch the dirty cleaner. Give it a final rinse with some conventional carb cleaner and leave it to dry out before putting it back together and starting up. You should have no trouble that way.
Get yourself one of these (amzn.to/3ctONXV) and download Torque Pro onto your phone (Android) and for a total of about 15 quid you've got a OBD2 code reader and much much more.
How long do you leave the foam on before starting the next squirt?
thanks for your good info. here in korea we dont have turbo cleaners. can i use carb cleaner instead?
Yes, use carb cleaner. Let us know how you get on
Will this process cleans the wastegate as well. As my vauxhall combo 1.3 diesel wastegate is sticking and van won't go over 3000 rpm and there is a fault code turbocharger boost pressure sensor
NO, this cleans the compressor ONLY. Test your sensor (try cleaning it first ua-cam.com/video/pgPCrioK-6A/v-deo.html) and wastegate to make sure it's not stuck. Don't forget to check the wiring too.
Awesome, just what I wanted
My turbo progressively got clogged, the mechanic said he unclogged the sensor and now he get no error from the car, but it is still stuck.
I bought this product as a last ditch effort, hoping that simply the valve was clogged and the turbo got stuck because it wasn't told to work anymore.
Finger crossed, i'll let you know!
Do you suggest more than 2 applications?
I kept driving for some months out of necessity, after the turbo stopped working.
@Dondolini94 did this fix your problem?
How would you do this on a Saab 9-3 turbo B207R it's so tight round the back there?
What about the exhaust part of the turbo, will it also be cleaned by this foamy additive?
NO. Blimey, if only all questions were this easy to answer 😆😂
@@CycloneCyd any idea how to clean that up? 😀
@@kennethandersen4839 yep remove it
@@kennethandersen4839 use 1:200 2 stroke oil. In less than 2 gas tanks it will be like new
@@outland4 why is that?
Could you make a video on how to replace the rear o2 sensor on your 9-3 saab, i cant find any instruction on how to do it
I've added it to the list (which is quite long). ✔
Very good 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi I thought the vans were on the hot side not compressor side ? But I hope your right because I’m going to try this 👍
They are. Both wheels have vanes. A compressor wheel on cold side and a turbine wheel on hot side 👍. The 'variable vanes' you get on VVT turbos are just on the hot side because it's easier to engineer because of the geometry.
What about Wynns turbo cleaner fuel additive? Would you recommend for a 9-3 Turbo Edition 120?
Nothing you add to fuel can clean your turbo compressor. 'Super' fuel is far better than any additive. Use it all the time.
Does this free up a stuck waste gate ??
The reason the wastegate doesn't get a mention is that, NO, it doesn't. that requires more drastic action.
Trty running your car on 'super' and once you've got through half a tank, give it an Italian tune. That might help.
hi guys, it's philippe from france. my question is not related to the subject but I cannot find a solution to discuss it with you. my saab is a 9.3 convertible 2005 and my problem is with fault message system TC and the same for ESP. I don't know if you had a solution to these problems. I read a topic but no solution. they talk about electric cable. if you have any idea i will be very interested
I'm assuming you also have an ABS light on? One of the common faults these suffer is an internally broken wire to a rear WSS. The break is usually close to where the cables jump from body to rear suspension. Unplug the WSS and connect together the wires on the body harness. Then find those wires at the big ABS connector and measure the continuity with an ohmeter. if you use the buzzer function you can also waggle the wires along their length and listen if the buzzer note changes or goes off.
If the ABS is still okay, then it could be the clockspring in the CIM. Have you had a new clutch in the last 2 years? Also check that ALL the controls on the steering wheel are working okay (incl horn)
@@CycloneCyd Thank you very much for your answer . These problems appear from time to time, but always at the same time. For the turbo it cuts the turbo and I no longer have a turbo meter at the same time I no longer have a speedometer. Simply turning off the ignition and restarting makes the problem go away. for info it's an automatic 175hp turbo. 4 cylinders. I tell you about my life, but I am a bit alone with my problems and it feels good to speak with a person who knows the Car. I also have a message: limited power which appears the same way. the engine is running but the car does not move or is very difficult. If you have an idea ? thank you and good evening
Must i use the hole can
The instructions say to do so, but I have found that one can is good for 4-5 cleans. You might have to use a bit more if it's the first time it's been done in many miles, after that it's just a matter of keeping it clean, maybe once a year.
So, short answer, NO
can you clean turbo soaked with oil with this?
You should be able to with repeat applications, BUT that oil has to go somewhere and it's likely to be the IC. Could you disconnect the output pipe while you clean it and catch the carp in rag?
Do you rinse the “foam” out?
So, you don't have to dismantle the turbo?
Can i use carburator cleaner instead
Yes, you could, but wait a while for it to dry before starting
@@CycloneCyd thank you
Love your videos!! Thank you for all the great info! After you spray the cleaner, does it evaporate, drain on its own or do you have to do something to get it out? And, with the Saabs, is it fairly easy to do? I have an 06. Thanks again!
Nice 1
Thanks for watching
On my Saab 9-3 B207 engine , if i removed the air pipe next to the MAF sensor and sprey the turbocharger from there is it good enough cause it's much easier ?
It is rather awkward on the B207. if you want to spray from the top of the cobra pipe, then use ordinary carb cleaner. I don't think it's as effective but it will help if you do it regularly (say, once a year). It's not too difficult to remove the cobra and get at the turbo intake if you use the Wynns cleaner as it's quite a small can. It also gives you the opportunity to inspect the cobra for this problem ua-cam.com/video/bgLn14dZL3Q/v-deo.html
@@CycloneCyd Thanks for the suggestion . I'm afraid that the EML will show up ( since the turboboost never been clean before ) and I do not have a code reader ( tech 2 ) to cancel it .In case it will show up , if i disconnect the batterry ( Lets say about an hour ) will it go away ?
Mr muscolo best cleaner
Better clean manifold
I have another video on cleaning the throttle body 👍
Have you had any issues with turbo actuator on 1.2tsi engine? Iv got a fault code P334A which is intermittent, not sure if this would help
I'd say it has to be worth a try. You should clean the turbo periodically anyway. You're probably going to need a new actuator. I'd be trying one of these aftermarket units: bit.ly/2XATcgC105hp_actuator
How long do you need to let the solvent soak for after squirting a bit in? Thanks in advance!
Hi I been following you and thanks for the videos. I got oil leaking in turbo pipes and sirens noise from turbo to, Do you know if I can do the same on audi a3 tdi bkd engine?
Check your pcv valve
So you actaully pushed that dirt further and it will clog the valves now? I don't know if that's any use.
👎👎
Hello i have a 320d e91 would this help me with my issue im having low power on low rpm up till 2000 rpms and then it works normaly ?
It might, diesels are more prone to gumming up the compressor.
Does yours have a VVT turbo? (variable vane). If so it could be the vanes gummed up on the 'hot' side. Try running it on premium diesel for a few tanks and give it a few 'italian' tunes when it's properly warmed up. Do you do mostly short (
@@CycloneCyd im always running it on premium diesel just used the wynns cleaner and had no difference so idk what to do now
@@V7HD1 try 2 strokes oil 1:200 in 2 tanks and with a medium /heavy foot it Will free your vanes
Thanks for the video, I have got Citron Diesel car, recetly have issues (having loud noise from front of the car when i drive on motorway above 40mph) took to mechanic and he says its turbo charger faulty and needs to be replaced (but quite expensive) and i am also seeing warning Particle Filter risk of blockage , is there any way to clear this warning? Thanks
You need to drive in a manner that allows the DPF to regenerate. Usually this means a steady speed with engine warm and above 2500rpm. It usually takes around 15 minutes so a 20 mile trip up a quiet motorway should do it.
Wrong first diagnose it fix thé faults then they can regenerate thé dpf. If you have faults it wont do a regeneration of it's own. Just use a dpf cleaner after you fixed thé faults . Check the glowplugs for faults
Here’s an update. I had a bad intercooler out hose. It was also loose and bad now the turbo is fantastic.!
I bought an old turbo but spray cleaned it, especially the inside of the turbo، I cleaned both the fan and the holes with anti-grease spray، is it normal for a turbo. Please answer. Thank you
How much the price
which price?
Hello!
Im having a issue with my car where i floor it and it needs time to pick up the gas(turbo opens later than it needs) especialy in bigger gears where i floor it,it runs great but its that delay that annoys me..Do you think this can help my problem?
Would this help a sticking actuator Valve on a BMW 535d
Hi Jason, are you meaning something like a wastegate actuator solenoid or part of the vvt system? i had a sticky solenoid on my car when I bought it. A quick spray through with carb cleaner, let it dry and it's been okay since. For variable vane problems, no this won't help. This can only clean the 'cold' side of the turbo. For the 'hot' side, you need to find a way in somehow for the cleaner. The EGR pipework may help. If that's a no-go, fill a full tank with VPower diesel and during the tankfull give the car 3 or 4 'Italian tunes'.
@@CycloneCyd
Yeah sorry it's the wastegate actuator, the rod does not move, so not sure if it's got enough vacuum to move it, tried to move it by hand, it does move but very stiff. I did pull off the vacuum hose off the end and I cudnt fell any vacuum but that was when the car is at idle so I not sure how much vacuum there is supposed to be, gonna try a handheld vacuum pump today see if it moves the rod to open the wastegate.
@@CycloneCyd check my chanel I did put a video up of what I mean. Thanks
@@jasoncrane4624 yeah, they are hard to move by hand. Test with a vac pump first because the actuator may have a split diaphragm or other leak. If that's okay then it'll almost certainly be the solenoid that activates it.
@@CycloneCyd nice one thanks alot
Wheres the before photo of the turbo????
How in the world did you do that on a Saab without taking everything apart? lol
Can i use break cleaner
Your voice reminds me of Benny Hill.
Ecky thump, that's a blast from the past! So un-PC these days. Classic.
I hate Wynns products, I placed Wynns Dry Fuel in 3 cars all started to run rough. I got the AA out and they drain the fuel tanks and with fuel prices thee way they are I had to dispose 150Liters of fuel. SO I lost £300 worth of the Juice. They all ran fine thereafter. I then decided to use the Wynns EGR Diesel cleaner and the emissions light came on, the DPF filter and turbo needed changing cost of £1500 plus labour. I contacted Wynns adn the response was talk to the hand. Never will I buy there rubbish products again!
all that dirt inside your turbo is going inside and its going to destroy it.. i rather clean ig manually remove every parts and its good as brand new.. you dont need to be lazy not to clean it
"is going inside" - huh❓ It's already 'inside'. But you carry on if you like.
Why design truck with turbos knowing we're gonna get them dirty?
Engineer wadman how to no about turbo
Keeping them clean is important.
You do no your only cleaning the cold side of the turbo not the hot side
Did you watch the video? To answer directly: YES, that's exactly what the video is about❗