Far out! Thank you so much Patrick for the shout-out, it means a lot to us. Great to see you getting stuck in and embracing the passion for all things 4wd. We're just a couple of mates who love working on the rigs, learning heaps as we go and doing our best to help others have a crack too. Really appreciate the great feedback you gave here, as we're just getting started, and there's lots more to come on the Cruisers in the near future! Cheers, Brad and Luka
I sit at a desk all day, zero mechanical experience but when it came time to do the swivels on my 60 series, I gave it a go. Couple youtube videos, a few basic tools and a weekend is all it needed. Very satisyfing doing it yourself,
I just did this on my daughter's VDJ76. Never done it before, just watched all the youtube clips, bought all the gear, and went for it. I was stressed once I had it all in a million pieces but just kept chipping away. Such a great feeling afterwards and glad I saved her about $1500 in labour costs as well. Doing the other side will be a walk in the park now!
Just done this as a 16 old with my first car (barn find ln106) which needs a bit of love but did it all myself in a few days so I'm pretty proud of myself
I read the title of this video and immediately knew it was a swivel hub rebuild! Done it 3 times now and every time I swear I will never do it again ha ha
Well done on the job mate. Just a tip I learnt as an apprentice40 years ago, when draining diff oil always take the filler out first especially if doing it in the field. There will come a time you will find the filler plug is that smashed it needs more tools that you would normally carry to get it out and if you drop the oil first then you are stuck with having to find a solution to get oil back in. That aside keep doing what you are doing and keep learning as much as you can, it may just save a life one day.
Yup learned the "filler out first" trick as an apprentice. Only make that mistake once! 😆 I find Penrite oils very good too. My Nissan doesn't appreciate GL5 in the gearbox though- one additive eats the synchro cones apparently. Use GL4 instead. Not a lesser grade, just a different spec.
Little bit of a tip for bearing races, put them in the freezer when your about to start the job, makes getting the races in easier when it comes to that time
Got to say you videos are refreshingly different authentic genuine and insightful. Keep making a difference in a world that needs down to earth communication and honesty
What i like so much about you fellas is you're not commercial and your doing something that we all can do in our driveway. Not a mate that has a place and a mate that gives you everything. Most of us dont have that guy that can "buy" aka give us something thats a few $100. .ost of us have our 4wd thats also our daily. Way better than other big 4wd shows on the tube. Keep up the pure content. 👌
The 2nd Gear Low 'how to' videos are absolutely awesome! So well presented, they put up part numbers, torque specs and all. And you've giving me the confidence to try doing my wheel bearings too.
One of the best things I did after school, was joining the Army Reserves as a Armoured Corps Driver. We carried out minor and major servicing of our vehicles with the guidance of RAAME Mechanics. Even out field if a final Drive, an Engine, a Transmission, or Differential/steer Unit had to be replaced in an APC we got in and helped the RAAME Guys get it done, one of the best learning curves of my young adult life. And 30 years on, I still like to do all my own Servicing. Apart from saving money, you learn how to pull things apart, fix minor and the odd major problems with your own vehicle, and generally learn how they go together, which may be a god send one day sitting on the side of a track in the middle of Nowhere . . . The biggest issue is most of the time . . . is time it's self . . . as the first attempt usually takes a heap of time without guidance or shortcut hints, and then the 2nd attempt you just breeze through it lol. Enjoying your Video's . . . as they are down to earth and practicable
Getting the Brass Bushing out is simple if you compress the flange in a vice, while going compress-rotate-compress-rotate etc., then use a chisel an the bushing will come out :-)
I don’t own a 4wd but I watch your channel regularly , working on your own car is definitely the best way to go gaining all that knowledge yourself is rewarding and a huge money saver , good on ya man done well you’ll be a pro in no time . I’ve been working on my own cars forever 💯
The brass bush to needle roller bearing is definitely a big upgrade and definitely MORE bush proof! The stock bush is a friction "bearing" that relys on a film of grease/oil to prevent wear onto itself and doesn't spread the load/wear well. The roller bearing does all this far better while being made of a stiffer material. Have a google for more info if you're interested. (on the different types of bearings, not opinions from forums) But if you didn't work it out, that bush being worn out is the reason your inner seal failed as it wasn't holding the CV straight. It allowed it to flog about on the seal. 👍
Thanks so much for the comment killerbuns !! That's make so much sense! I didn't even really think of that to be honest, but that totally makes sense on why the seal could of worn out! Thanks for the info! I really appreciate it!!
Well actually a needle bearing requiers a lot better lubrication than a bronce bushing. The needle bearing will fail much quicker when exposed to dirt and water, while the bushing will wear down, but not fail catastropically. As it is softer than the axel, a damaged vushing wont take out the axel, while a failed needle bearing will destroy the surface of the axel.
Great job, staying true to your roots. Humble enough to seek help and learning as you go, that deserves respect. Anyone can drive the older 4wds, it takes real men (or women) to keep them going.
4:13 in and you can see the oil flow surging out. This would indicate a blocked axle breather. You actually confirmed this when you took the fill bung out and the oil flowed out smoothly. Your axle swivels were probably leaking because of a blocked axle breather.
Knowledge transfers on the internet is an amazing thing. Im 52 yrs old and still learn on this internet. My vice in life is trying to make my vehicle go places it shouldnt be able to go....so I do enjoy your channel. Heck, I even learned what an ARVO is.hehe
I've just done this job yesterday. Have done it twice now, and learnt that you need to check everything. As others have said before, brass bush that is worn leads to leaking inner seal. I didn't replace the bush. Pays to do the whole lot. It does get easier. For those playing at home without a race driver, I used old races with a cut in them to drive new races in.
Totally agree with you. I found 2nd Gear Low about a month ago as I'm looking to upgrade my disc rotors and their tutorials are the best. And I figure, if you can do it yourself, you learn so much about your 4wd.
Just a real quick helpful hint. Remove the fill bung first, the drain plug should always be last, because you cant refill it from the drain spot if the fill bung is siezed.
4:00 definitely a feeling I’ve had before. I did a long range tank, lift kit and aux battery on mine. It’s a big fingers crossed moment when you jack the car up and pull the first few nuts off. I don’t recommend doing it a few days before a big trip like I did. 😅
A true, Honest 4wd lover there. You've summed it up well with the title, and backed it up well with your tenacity to finish the job and achieve your goal. This vid will give me confidence to try and fix the same issue with my '82 Hilux....... BIG Thanks Lads !
Great job mate, the Aussie way - get in and have a go! You should be proud of yourself for achieving a job like this. The next ones won't seem as daunting. Cheers.
first time doing swivel hubs is a bloody mission but after a few times you learn all the little things that make it quicker and easier, i work as a mechanic in a 4x4 specialist workshop and can now do the whole job in about 5 -6 hours, just takes practice i spose. Good video for those learning.
*Kudos, I recall when the Hayne's Workshop Manual was a DIY Mechanic's Bible, I really appreciate the information available online these days for vehicles/repairs that I am not yet familiar, you never stop learning* 👍
Mega video mate. But I thought it was only Land Rover that turned owners into mechanics cos Toyotas are "bombproof" and nothing ever goes wrong with them😯😉😄 Good on ya for getting after it👍🏻
I really enjoyed watching you having a go especially being your first time. I'd love to know more but don't even have a shed to park the car in let alone all the bits and pieces you need or anyone with any knowledge. The most daunting part for me is if I put it all back together and something is wrong and where to start trouble shooting etc etc and getting to the point where I wish I had just paid a mechanic to do it. Appreciate your inspiring words tho 👍👌😎
I'm in the same boat as you and actually did pay a mechanic to do this job on my 80 - well over a grand later there was an intermittent but unmistakable noise in the front end. After a few weeks of back and forth they eventually refused to believe there was a problem because "we've replaced everything - it's quiet on our test drives and it probably just needs to bed in." Ended up paying another mechanic to redo it properly who informed me that the previous mechanic hadn't greased the spindle bushes. Second mechanic did install the roller bearing upgrade and won a new fan but I'd love to have the confidence, skill & resources to have done it myself.
Im in the middle of doing my 60 series at the moment. You're right about the most time consuming part being the cleaning, my 60 had so many layers of old grease and dirt it was like i was chiseling wood off it. Also the sense of accomplishment after finishing one side quickly wears off when you remember you still have the other side to go haha.
I get the satisfied feeling also, not being a mechanic, and fixing major problems just gives you such an appreciation of your old rig, I recently just went over my entire fuel system, to find it was a sparking issue 😂😂😂 After watching this I’m going to buy the tools and do my hubs also, thanks mate! And keep up these videos, you’d have to be the best non show off channel
Great job Every four wheeler should know how to do this Gives you the ideas of how things work And when it all goes wrong in the outback, you can save yourself
Well done. It's inspiring me to work on the more difficult parts of my own 80 Series. Having a hoist sure make life easier when working on a vehicle. 👍
To tap in your new wheel bearing cones you can use an old wheel bearing cone, put a cut through it with a thin blade grinder cutoff disc & use it to hammer on & drive in new wheel bearing cones. It will come out of the hub easy due to the cut you put through it.
Watched the old mechanic from terrain tammer on a swivel hub rebuild, best think I learnt, and it sounds rough but its a solid tip, put the wheel on onnce you have tightened the bearing, get a sledge, hit the side wsll of the tyre spin the tyre and repeat. Then you will find the bearing is loose, retighten, repeat until it no longer tightens, then set. The replicates rough road wear and tear and load of big tyres, also if your running 35's tighten the bearings a bit morr than normal to allow for the ectra load of the larger tyres. Keep up the good content
Couple things. Next time throw all seals to freezer, they will fit in WAY easier. When packing bearings, pack them from the wider side, pack them, spin them and pack again. For front and rear hubs buy that fine adjusting nuts, way better than that star washers. Also next time take off that 4 bottom studs off from bayfield, clean thread retap them and bolt them back with some strong loctite. I usually retight every stud around wheels just to be sure.
I've not long done this job on my his on my HZJ105R as you said the right tools make the job easy a bearing race and seal driver kit and a full box of brake and parts cleaner great video
I just changed the swivel hubs grease seals on my Patrol a few days ago. It's easy and does not require the removal of the swivel nub etc. All you need to do is removed the grease seal cover plate, scraper, grease seal and supporting ring. All the parts except for the rubber seal should be able to be removed easily because they are split (with a Patrol anyway) and you just cut the inner rubber grease seal to remove it. While these parts are out, you can clean the surface of the hub and remove any rough bits. Take the new rubber seal and cut it with a very sharp knife, then fit it over the hub placing the cut part at the top, put all the other parts in place and replace the cover plate. I've done this several times with various Patrols without a problem. I had the original factory manuals for my MQ and GQ Patrol and this is how replacement was described in those manuals, the latest GU manual doesn't show this. I should have also noted that the Toyota swivel hub arrangement appears the same.
Great honest video. It’s very rewarding finishing jobs like this yourself. I’ve bought a brand new BT50 in the last 6 month and with not much previous mechanical skills have managed to build it as a complete tourer by myself (minus bullbar / winch, snorkel and suspension which In hindsige I could have done) and wouldn’t have attempted half the stuff on my own if it was for good videos like yours showing that anything is possible
It's good to do your own mechanical work 👍 The thing stopping most people is time, space and tools. As for knowledge/skill/know-how, most repairs are on UA-cam in step by step format to easily follow.
When hammering around threaded bit (tie rod, wheels studs etc) it's worth throwing the nuts back on a few turns just in case you miss with the hammer. Damaged threads are a pain! Die grinders are handy for the likes of those brass bushings too. Grind a tiny groove most of the way through one part of it and then you can basically pop it out with a screwdriver.
Thanks kiwiblade! That's a great tip! And yes we do have a Dremel but it wasn't there on the day, but using that would of make taking out that brass bushing a heap easier! But glad I've got the new roller bearing and brass bush! Should hopefully make it alot easier to remove in the future!
One thing I think I noticed is that you didn't grease the rear felt seal, you need to squish qrease into it as it helps make it water tight. With no grease it can absorb water then allow water into the hub assembly. You can do it without stripping the hub apart, just undo the 10mm bolts holding the felt seal in.
good onya mate. There's 2 things an old fella told be when I was around you blokes age that now I'm the old fella its only right I share with you. If we don't explore we will never discover and if we never try then we will never learn. I think you earned those today. Well done.
I unfortunately spent half my summer holiday pulling out and rebuilding a new diff on my LN167 Luxy truck. I have no prior mechanical engineering experience except the common sense stuff like doing wheel bearings and a basic service. Not gonna lie, a few spanners were thrown a cross the shed floor but the end result was just awesome knowing I did it all myself, it was quite rewarding and challenging but I did have fun. And luckily I had my oldest brother who is a qualified mechanic watching over ever step I made. So I definitely take my hat off to you guys. ☺️ Keep up the great work. 👌🏼 Update on the new diff: still currently breaking it in but I'll be hopefully out on the tracks in no time. Keep up the fantastic video guys. 😁
Did mine on my patrol recently, pain of a job (especially when i found out that the MK patrols have the axle seal on the diff side and i had to pull the front diff to replace them) but very satisfying to get it back together. Nice work!
Well done it's funny how the left hand side leaks as when I had my 80 that was the side would leak and have u thought of putting in the part time kit in
Hey bro make sure to check your diff breather! If they block up it pressurises the diff housing and pushes oil into the hubs over and I've again no matter how many times they are replaced
Little tip for the bearing races next time Patrick - put the bearing races in the freezer for 20-30 minutes before putting them in - the metal contracts a little and makes it so much easier to knock in and actually get them dead straight first go
Ive got to do mine on my 105 Landcruiser. Looks like a stressful job for part of it. That 2nd gear low tutorial is really comprehensive. Just got get all the tools ect to do it 😬👍
Nice job mate, however the most important part of the job was missed - you NEED to check king pin bearing preload and adjust if necessary, you will need a spring gauge to do this, it's in the FSM, if you were following one. They quite often need adjustment when new bearings are used. I assume you used a torque wrench for the wheel bearings too, just off camera?
C'mon boys...you aren't doing this right....you're supposed to get your mates at Sparesbox, Fulcrum Suspension and Goodyear to be doing all this for you😉🤣
Excellent effort for having a go, just a tip for you. When you are cleaning with a wire brush please put some safety glasses on. Keep up the good work.
What, no gloves 😮 makes you a REAL MAN 😁👍 good job on doing this mate and you are right about having the right tools 😣 I did this on my son's 4x4 with REAL BASIC home tools and was still fun buuut very time consuming 🤣🤣🤔 Keep well mate 😉🍺🍺
Just a tip for everyone who may not know, always undo your fill plug before the drain wether it may be diff, gearbox or transfer, because if ya can't get the fill undone and you've already dropped the oil you obviously aren't gonna be able to get the oil back in and that sort means no drive, just a tip for young players
Awesome to see you on the tools Pat! Top job! You guys have a great way of making it seem achievable. I've watched other videos from other youtubers and been left with the feeling of, well that's great for them, but not me. If I had an 80 I reckon I'd almost tackle this job (if I had time) after watching you do it. At some point you'll need another car in the mix. Get another Paj, please :-)
totally agree, utube has so many different options for the want to have a crack person. with a little confidence from utube n a willing to have a crack ur self u can do it. i learnt how to fiberglass using utube n now i am into a 2 year resto on a fiberglass cabin cruiser. yes i am still using utube for the resto. its so rewarding, have a go.
Hands Down, best 4wd channel on youtube. No flexing, or showing off expensive gear. Just a bloke having a go and making things happen! Keep it up!
Thanks Jordan! Really appreciate the kind words mate, it really means alot!!
Too right
I thought Mighty Car Mods was the best off-roading channel. Lol.
Cough 4wd 24/7 cough
Far out! Thank you so much Patrick for the shout-out, it means a lot to us. Great to see you getting stuck in and embracing the passion for all things 4wd. We're just a couple of mates who love working on the rigs, learning heaps as we go and doing our best to help others have a crack too.
Really appreciate the great feedback you gave here, as we're just getting started, and there's lots more to come on the Cruisers in the near future!
Cheers, Brad and Luka
No worries boys! Thanks so much for the tutorial!! Keep it up! Will be definitely following you guys for more 👌
I sit at a desk all day, zero mechanical experience but when it came time to do the swivels on my 60 series, I gave it a go. Couple youtube videos, a few basic tools and a weekend is all it needed.
Very satisyfing doing it yourself,
I just did this on my daughter's VDJ76. Never done it before, just watched all the youtube clips, bought all the gear, and went for it. I was stressed once I had it all in a million pieces but just kept chipping away. Such a great feeling afterwards and glad I saved her about $1500 in labour costs as well. Doing the other side will be a walk in the park now!
Can’t believe it only takes 17 minutes to do! I might do mine quickly before work
Just done this as a 16 old with my first car (barn find ln106) which needs a bit of love but did it all myself in a few days so I'm pretty proud of myself
I read the title of this video and immediately knew it was a swivel hub rebuild! Done it 3 times now and every time I swear I will never do it again ha ha
Well done on the job mate. Just a tip I learnt as an apprentice40 years ago, when draining diff oil always take the filler out first especially if doing it in the field. There will come a time you will find the filler plug is that smashed it needs more tools that you would normally carry to get it out and if you drop the oil first then you are stuck with having to find a solution to get oil back in. That aside keep doing what you are doing and keep learning as much as you can, it may just save a life one day.
Yup learned the "filler out first" trick as an apprentice. Only make that mistake once! 😆 I find Penrite oils very good too. My Nissan doesn't appreciate GL5 in the gearbox though- one additive eats the synchro cones apparently. Use GL4 instead. Not a lesser grade, just a different spec.
Thanks boomer! I did loosen the filer first, just didn't film it! But thanks its a great tip!!! 👌
Little bit of a tip for bearing races, put them in the freezer when your about to start the job, makes getting the races in easier when it comes to that time
Pure class Patrick 2nd gear reference throughout and inspirational
Love the authenticity mate! Last few vids have been killer. Keep it up.
Got to say you videos are refreshingly different authentic genuine and insightful. Keep making a difference in a world that needs down to earth communication and honesty
What i like so much about you fellas is you're not commercial and your doing something that we all can do in our driveway. Not a mate that has a place and a mate that gives you everything. Most of us dont have that guy that can "buy" aka give us something thats a few $100. .ost of us have our 4wd thats also our daily. Way better than other big 4wd shows on the tube. Keep up the pure content. 👌
The 2nd Gear Low 'how to' videos are absolutely awesome! So well presented, they put up part numbers, torque specs and all. And you've giving me the confidence to try doing my wheel bearings too.
One of the best things I did after school, was joining the Army Reserves as a Armoured Corps Driver. We carried out minor and major servicing of our vehicles with the guidance of RAAME Mechanics. Even out field if a final Drive, an Engine, a Transmission, or Differential/steer Unit had to be replaced in an APC we got in and helped the RAAME Guys get it done, one of the best learning curves of my young adult life.
And 30 years on, I still like to do all my own Servicing. Apart from saving money, you learn how to pull things apart, fix minor and the odd major problems with your own vehicle, and generally learn how they go together, which may be a god send one day sitting on the side of a track in the middle of Nowhere . . .
The biggest issue is most of the time . . . is time it's self . . . as the first attempt usually takes a heap of time without guidance or shortcut hints, and then the 2nd attempt you just breeze through it lol.
Enjoying your Video's . . . as they are down to earth and practicable
Getting the Brass Bushing out is simple if you compress the flange in a vice, while going compress-rotate-compress-rotate etc., then use a chisel an the bushing will come out :-)
I don’t own a 4wd but I watch your channel regularly , working on your own car is definitely the best way to go gaining all that knowledge yourself is rewarding and a huge money saver , good on ya man done well you’ll be a pro in no time . I’ve been working on my own cars forever 💯
Thanks crowybruv! Means alot!
The brass bush to needle roller bearing is definitely a big upgrade and definitely MORE bush proof!
The stock bush is a friction "bearing" that relys on a film of grease/oil to prevent wear onto itself and doesn't spread the load/wear well. The roller bearing does all this far better while being made of a stiffer material. Have a google for more info if you're interested. (on the different types of bearings, not opinions from forums)
But if you didn't work it out, that bush being worn out is the reason your inner seal failed as it wasn't holding the CV straight. It allowed it to flog about on the seal. 👍
Thanks so much for the comment killerbuns !! That's make so much sense! I didn't even really think of that to be honest, but that totally makes sense on why the seal could of worn out! Thanks for the info! I really appreciate it!!
Well actually a needle bearing requiers a lot better lubrication than a bronce bushing. The needle bearing will fail much quicker when exposed to dirt and water, while the bushing will wear down, but not fail catastropically. As it is softer than the axel, a damaged vushing wont take out the axel, while a failed needle bearing will destroy the surface of the axel.
@@nilz6432 A needle bearing moves the grease around with it while a brass bush relies on the smooth surface of the axle to help it move around.
Great job, staying true to your roots. Humble enough to seek help and learning as you go, that deserves respect. Anyone can drive the older 4wds, it takes real men (or women) to keep them going.
Thanks J ! Really appreciate the support mate!
Nice work
People like your self make the 4wd community as good as it is
4:13 in and you can see the oil flow surging out. This would indicate a blocked axle breather. You actually confirmed this when you took the fill bung out and the oil flowed out smoothly. Your axle swivels were probably leaking because of a blocked axle breather.
Thanks Carlton! I'll check it out !!!
Good spotting
Knowledge transfers on the internet is an amazing thing. Im 52 yrs old and still learn on this internet. My vice in life is trying to make my vehicle go places it shouldnt be able to go....so I do enjoy your channel. Heck, I even learned what an ARVO is.hehe
Fantastic job Aussie arvo crew!!!! Bloody legends
Another awesome video 🤠👍🏾🍺🍺
Very inspiring 👍🏾🍺
Job well done mate! You are not scared to get your hands dirty 😂👍🏼
I've just done this job yesterday. Have done it twice now, and learnt that you need to check everything. As others have said before, brass bush that is worn leads to leaking inner seal. I didn't replace the bush. Pays to do the whole lot. It does get easier. For those playing at home without a race driver, I used old races with a cut in them to drive new races in.
I needed this video mine needs new swivel hub bearings takl about perfect timing
Totally agree with you. I found 2nd Gear Low about a month ago as I'm looking to upgrade my disc rotors and their tutorials are the best. And I figure, if you can do it yourself, you learn so much about your 4wd.
Just a real quick helpful hint. Remove the fill bung first, the drain plug should always be last, because you cant refill it from the drain spot if the fill bung is siezed.
Should have a smoother flow too 👍
4:00 definitely a feeling I’ve had before. I did a long range tank, lift kit and aux battery on mine. It’s a big fingers crossed moment when you jack the car up and pull the first few nuts off.
I don’t recommend doing it a few days before a big trip like I did. 😅
A true, Honest 4wd lover there. You've summed it up well with the title, and backed it up well with your tenacity to finish the job and achieve your goal. This vid will give me confidence to try and fix the same issue with my '82 Hilux....... BIG Thanks Lads !
Gotta do the same with my 83 haha. I have the parts but it looks so horrible haha
@@Norskenxtreme Just need liquid motivation 🍺👍😜
Great job mate, the Aussie way - get in and have a go! You should be proud of yourself for achieving a job like this. The next ones won't seem as daunting. Cheers.
first time doing swivel hubs is a bloody mission but after a few times you learn all the little things that make it quicker and easier, i work as a mechanic in a 4x4 specialist workshop and can now do the whole job in about 5 -6 hours, just takes practice i spose. Good video for those learning.
*Kudos, I recall when the Hayne's Workshop Manual was a DIY Mechanic's Bible, I really appreciate the information available online these days for vehicles/repairs that I am not yet familiar, you never stop learning* 👍
Mega video mate.
But I thought it was only Land Rover that turned owners into mechanics cos Toyotas are "bombproof" and nothing ever goes wrong with them😯😉😄
Good on ya for getting after it👍🏻
I really enjoyed watching you having a go especially being your first time. I'd love to know more but don't even have a shed to park the car in let alone all the bits and pieces you need or anyone with any knowledge. The most daunting part for me is if I put it all back together and something is wrong and where to start trouble shooting etc etc and getting to the point where I wish I had just paid a mechanic to do it. Appreciate your inspiring words tho 👍👌😎
I'm in the same boat as you and actually did pay a mechanic to do this job on my 80 - well over a grand later there was an intermittent but unmistakable noise in the front end. After a few weeks of back and forth they eventually refused to believe there was a problem because "we've replaced everything - it's quiet on our test drives and it probably just needs to bed in." Ended up paying another mechanic to redo it properly who informed me that the previous mechanic hadn't greased the spindle bushes. Second mechanic did install the roller bearing upgrade and won a new fan but I'd love to have the confidence, skill & resources to have done it myself.
Inspiring episode mate. Given me the confidence to get in and have a crack.
Im in the middle of doing my 60 series at the moment. You're right about the most time consuming part being the cleaning, my 60 had so many layers of old grease and dirt it was like i was chiseling wood off it. Also the sense of accomplishment after finishing one side quickly wears off when you remember you still have the other side to go haha.
I get the satisfied feeling also, not being a mechanic, and fixing major problems just gives you such an appreciation of your old rig, I recently just went over my entire fuel system, to find it was a sparking issue 😂😂😂
After watching this I’m going to buy the tools and do my hubs also, thanks mate! And keep up these videos, you’d have to be the best non show off channel
Great job
Every four wheeler should know how to do this
Gives you the ideas of how things work
And when it all goes wrong in the outback, you can save yourself
Good work Patrick 🙌🏽 especially as a non-mechanic as you say
Well done. It's inspiring me to work on the more difficult parts of my own 80 Series. Having a hoist sure make life easier when working on a vehicle. 👍
Great vid young fella. Looks like a fair bit of water in tha oil and grease that came out? Do you have diff breathers?
Gotta love the ups and downs of doing your own work. Rebuilt a XT Falcon years ago, deadset roller coaster.
This is what youtube needs a solid 80 channel mate.. huge help
Awesome video pat absolutely loved it 👍🏽
Well done 🤙🏽
Thanks Jesse!! 👌 Really appreciate it mate! :)
To tap in your new wheel bearing cones you can use an old wheel bearing cone, put a cut through it with a thin blade grinder cutoff disc & use it to hammer on & drive in new wheel bearing cones. It will come out of the hub easy due to the cut you put through it.
The look on your face when you saw the front diff oil 😂😂
Diff breather extension incoming haha?
Watched the old mechanic from terrain tammer on a swivel hub rebuild, best think I learnt, and it sounds rough but its a solid tip, put the wheel on onnce you have tightened the bearing, get a sledge, hit the side wsll of the tyre spin the tyre and repeat. Then you will find the bearing is loose, retighten, repeat until it no longer tightens, then set. The replicates rough road wear and tear and load of big tyres, also if your running 35's tighten the bearings a bit morr than normal to allow for the ectra load of the larger tyres. Keep up the good content
Great video. Good to see you giving credit to 2nd Gear Pow while still making this a great video of your own experience. Keep up the good work.
Thanks mate! Yeah definitely! Gotta credit him! Without him not sure if i would of had the confidence to do it! And thanks! Means alot!
Couple things. Next time throw all seals to freezer, they will fit in WAY easier. When packing bearings, pack them from the wider side, pack them, spin them and pack again. For front and rear hubs buy that fine adjusting nuts, way better than that star washers. Also next time take off that 4 bottom studs off from bayfield, clean thread retap them and bolt them back with some strong loctite. I usually retight every stud around wheels just to be sure.
I've not long done this job on my his on my HZJ105R as you said the right tools make the job easy a bearing race and seal driver kit and a full box of brake and parts cleaner great video
Well Done young man ✔✔⭐⭐🐘🐘
Doing my swivel hubs on my 105 this weekend before long weekend trip. 2nd gear low is a saviour for sure.
He is a legend!!
@@AussieArvos you guys heading out for the long weekend?
You're an inspiration young man. I sold my 80 because the upkeep got too much. I regret it now.
I just changed the swivel hubs grease seals on my Patrol a few days ago. It's easy and does not require the removal of the swivel nub etc. All you need to do is removed the grease seal cover plate, scraper, grease seal and supporting ring. All the parts except for the rubber seal should be able to be removed easily because they are split (with a Patrol anyway) and you just cut the inner rubber grease seal to remove it. While these parts are out, you can clean the surface of the hub and remove any rough bits. Take the new rubber seal and cut it with a very sharp knife, then fit it over the hub placing the cut part at the top, put all the other parts in place and replace the cover plate. I've done this several times with various Patrols without a problem. I had the original factory manuals for my MQ and GQ Patrol and this is how replacement was described in those manuals, the latest GU manual doesn't show this. I should have also noted that the Toyota swivel hub arrangement appears the same.
Great information on here, love the video.
Pro tip: put the bearing races in the freezer for an hour before you go to put them in. Really helps 👍
Great honest video. It’s very rewarding finishing jobs like this yourself. I’ve bought a brand new BT50 in the last 6 month and with not much previous mechanical skills have managed to build it as a complete tourer by myself (minus bullbar / winch, snorkel and suspension which In hindsige I could have done) and wouldn’t have attempted half the stuff on my own if it was for good videos like yours showing that anything is possible
UA-cam has definitely become a game changer for the DIY
Awesome job 👌👍 Doing work on your own vehicle is highly satisfying. I do wish I have a work shed and a hoist. It'll make vehicle work so much easier.
It's good to do your own mechanical work 👍 The thing stopping most people is time, space and tools.
As for knowledge/skill/know-how, most repairs are on UA-cam in step by step format to easily follow.
When hammering around threaded bit (tie rod, wheels studs etc) it's worth throwing the nuts back on a few turns just in case you miss with the hammer. Damaged threads are a pain!
Die grinders are handy for the likes of those brass bushings too. Grind a tiny groove most of the way through one part of it and then you can basically pop it out with a screwdriver.
Thanks kiwiblade! That's a great tip! And yes we do have a Dremel but it wasn't there on the day, but using that would of make taking out that brass bushing a heap easier! But glad I've got the new roller bearing and brass bush! Should hopefully make it alot easier to remove in the future!
The you tube video you mentioned and the OTRAM video are gold for doing this job
One thing I think I noticed is that you didn't grease the rear felt seal, you need to squish qrease into it as it helps make it water tight. With no grease it can absorb water then allow water into the hub assembly. You can do it without stripping the hub apart, just undo the 10mm bolts holding the felt seal in.
Nah I didn't grease that felt seal, but thanks for the tip Daniel!
good onya mate. There's 2 things an old fella told be when I was around you blokes age that now I'm the old fella its only right I share with you. If we don't explore we will never discover and if we never try then we will never learn. I think you earned those today. Well done.
I unfortunately spent half my summer holiday pulling out and rebuilding a new diff on my LN167 Luxy truck. I have no prior mechanical engineering experience except the common sense stuff like doing wheel bearings and a basic service. Not gonna lie, a few spanners were thrown a cross the shed floor but the end result was just awesome knowing I did it all myself, it was quite rewarding and challenging but I did have fun. And luckily I had my oldest brother who is a qualified mechanic watching over ever step I made. So I definitely take my hat off to you guys. ☺️ Keep up the great work. 👌🏼 Update on the new diff: still currently breaking it in but I'll be hopefully out on the tracks in no time. Keep up the fantastic video guys. 😁
That is inspiring and motivating for a lot of people...well done mate, you are a legend
Good bloke, giving me confidence to this to my 60 series, long overdue
good tut video ! inspirational!!
Wahoo. Well done Patrick you'll be the go to man for all things 80 series soon.
Thanks Graham!! Hope to be!! 🤣 Cheers thanks mate !
Hot tip, if you have a stuck brass bush, weld a line or two on the inside and it will shrink, much easier to get out.
Did mine on my patrol recently, pain of a job (especially when i found out that the MK patrols have the axle seal on the diff side and i had to pull the front diff to replace them) but very satisfying to get it back together. Nice work!
Well done it's funny how the left hand side leaks as when I had my 80 that was the side would leak and have u thought of putting in the part time kit in
I've thought of it, maybe one day!
Guessing it has something to do with that side having the longer axel, not 100% sure
Hey bro make sure to check your diff breather! If they block up it pressurises the diff housing and pushes oil into the hubs over and I've again no matter how many times they are replaced
Little tip for the bearing races next time Patrick - put the bearing races in the freezer for 20-30 minutes before putting them in - the metal contracts a little and makes it so much easier to knock in and actually get them dead straight first go
Ive got to do mine on my 105 Landcruiser. Looks like a stressful job for part of it. That 2nd gear low tutorial is really comprehensive. Just got get all the tools ect to do it 😬👍
Nice job mate, however the most important part of the job was missed - you NEED to check king pin bearing preload and adjust if necessary, you will need a spring gauge to do this, it's in the FSM, if you were following one. They quite often need adjustment when new bearings are used. I assume you used a torque wrench for the wheel bearings too, just off camera?
Agreed, two important things that were kind of skipped over.
C'mon boys...you aren't doing this right....you're supposed to get your mates at Sparesbox, Fulcrum Suspension and Goodyear to be doing all this for you😉🤣
Give them a few years and the sponsors will take over, happens to everyone. Already starting with the sneaky LegendX shirt on.
Great job mate it’s always a great feeling to get the jobs done to create mechanical sympathy
Ahahahahaah legit died at the clip of u hitting your finger. I think everyone can relate to that gagaga
Good on ya mate was a good watch thankyou, just started watching your channel keep it up mate
Did you use a htb bearing grease ?
Excellent effort for having a go, just a tip for you. When you are cleaning with a wire brush please put some safety glasses on. Keep up the good work.
New subscriber awesome video.👍
Just a grubby job
Once it’s all clean it’s actually fun
I was doing the same thing like u today. Except I’m working on my brakes and overhaul my brake caliper .
What, no gloves 😮 makes you a REAL MAN 😁👍 good job on doing this mate and you are right about having the right tools 😣 I did this on my son's 4x4 with REAL BASIC home tools and was still fun buuut very time consuming 🤣🤣🤔
Keep well mate 😉🍺🍺
😆 I guessed the job correctly.
This made me feel more comfortable doing it myself. Just need to go get some tools and my own SFA 4WD.
Great job mate. 🙏🤙🇦🇺
Blow your diff breather out can cause seals to fail real quick if it is blocked 👍 i noticed you removed fill plug for better flow
Just a tip for everyone who may not know, always undo your fill plug before the drain wether it may be diff, gearbox or transfer, because if ya can't get the fill undone and you've already dropped the oil you obviously aren't gonna be able to get the oil back in and that sort means no drive, just a tip for young players
Awesome to see you on the tools Pat! Top job! You guys have a great way of making it seem achievable. I've watched other videos from other youtubers and been left with the feeling of, well that's great for them, but not me. If I had an 80 I reckon I'd almost tackle this job (if I had time) after watching you do it. At some point you'll need another car in the mix. Get another Paj, please :-)
Massive respect for you legend.Im inspired.Thankyou
Brilliant vid bro, job well done.
What about the swivel hub bearing pre load? Kingpin bearing preload?
Nothing wrong with tamers inner axle seal, use there kit all the time at work
Reckon an intake clean on a modern common rail is second worst 😅
Nice work Pat!
Great effort mate 👍🏼 not an easy job for someone who’s not a mechanic
totally agree, utube has so many different options for the want to have a crack person. with a little confidence from utube n a willing to have a crack ur self u can do it. i learnt how to fiberglass using utube n now i am into a 2 year resto on a fiberglass cabin cruiser. yes i am still using utube for the resto. its so rewarding, have a go.
When you are getting tie rods out you can leave the nut on there a few threads to prevent destroying them good method that you used but