Phil, before you make a hole in the hull, may i suggest that you just seal up the lighting kit with the power switch turned "on' and bury that switch in the dead space behind the wall where the circuit board is. then you add a new switch next to your power input on your nice wooden base and interupt the power at the base, not at the ship.
Be careful,that switch may be a momentary contact switch,in other words it does not turn on and off by clicking and locking in on or off position but a circuit on the board detects the momentary contact and turns on or off
I was also going to suggest that but has already been pointed out, that tactile switch looks like it is a momentary type which means that it is not s simple on/off switch. Having said that, if you are taking the power wires down the stand it is not too much extra to do the same with the switch wires and replace the switch with a nicer one in the base.
Fascinating part 2 video Phil; really enjoy your efforts and explanations of the Route you chose to follow. That Camel yellow really pops … looking forward to seeing part 3!
Got mine Phil, added to my stash. Getting my Seaview in the coming week. I use to use a couple of foam plates staples together, as a kid, with a couple of wings glued on and play with it in the tub, crashing it into the water. LOL. Maybe I could do it fifty years later(older) again.lol.
If I had a "wine" I thought the drawings for the blow-ups of the assembly could have been a lot larger with details. Even if it was a download able PDF would have been okay, not those mashes reductions.
Hey Phil… I AM enjoying your build as it comes together. I like the camel yellow, looks good. And don’t listen to the naysayers. Who cares if it’s an old kit. Lastly. I like that you test different things and products like you did with the floor. I do the same with my builds. It’s your model… you build it the way you want it. Can’t wait to see how your base come out.
Lou is a building genius but so are you Phil!!! Love your work and this build while in the beginning stages is already looking phenomenal! Always enjoy videos please keep them coming!! Also the electronics that come with kits or bought separately can be really inadequate. I'm building the Deagostini Millennium Falcon and the stock electronics are truly pitiful. The board is like a remnant from the era of the Commodore 64. My IT looked at it and laughed. I upgraded and bought aftermarket electronics with SFX. So much better. Well worth the monies.
I'm here because I have built this and that over time-- including the Aurora version of the FS1. So I like seeing what's doin'. Plus, you're good at feeling your way and showing us. Yes, you should re-think that stand-- 'flimsy' ain't the word. I just went through this with Lou-- opposite consideration-- his base for the Eagle 5 was not flimsy at all. You could substitute it for a car jack stand. But that's no never mind! Something wrong with brass tubing? Maybe it's just me. If I wanted a water effect, without breaking the surface, I would just get a square of ripple acrylic (like found in a shower stall). Seems like you're running in a whole lotta materials and technique. Still, as I recall someone saying, it's your model. And-- yessir, still curious about your outcome. You have the disquieting result of down talking your efforts and yielding something quite good. I can wait. Something that may be well beyond what's possible now, I think you might want to re-think that EL sheet lighting. I know space is at a premium-- but something's not right with that thing. I remember EL products and they are much brighter than that -- all room lighting conditions notwithstanding. (They will dim with time-- an alarmingly short period of time.) I think you might consider a step beside your electronics comfort zone and think of building a rank of LEDs to replace that thing. Little guys, of course, that would fire along the underside. I know, it's a lot. But ask your chum Wayne, he might have an easier solution.
Always insightful and generous with your thoughts and ideas. The stand is no long flimsy as you will see in part three! This lighting kit is tragic but sometimes I build what’s available for those who want to use these items! All trial and error for me and a genuine learning curb. Cheers!
I envy him, I am also a fan of Irwin Allen, unfortunately in my country there is no possibility of getting fictional modeling, so I have been forced to badly replace my illusion as a child with unrealistic 3D.
I did. Personally I don’t like “playing” with my models - I view them as works of art to be appreciated from a far. I have no problem with those who like to look inside by leaving the hatch lose. It’s just not my thing.
BUILD WHAT MAKES Y-O-U HAPPY PHILL.....P.S. IGNORE THIS CRAZY-MAN BELOW ME.....EXCEPT WHATEVER HE SAYS ABOUT MODELS, LIGHTING, PAINT.PAINTING, PAINT MASKS, SWITCHES AND OVER-ALL MODELING ADVICE....................Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!
Fantastic Build Phil, with great thoughts from you, i love it, and the decent Aztek Dummy Shirt too🤣🤣
Can’t wait for part 3 just going to watch now😊
Phil, before you make a hole in the hull, may i suggest that you just seal up the lighting kit with the power switch turned "on' and bury that switch in the dead space behind the wall where the circuit board is. then you add a new switch next to your power input on your nice wooden base and interupt the power at the base, not at the ship.
Yep! Thank you!
Be careful,that switch may be a momentary contact switch,in other words it does not turn on and off by clicking and locking in on or off position but a circuit on the board detects the momentary contact and turns on or off
I was also going to suggest that but has already been pointed out, that tactile switch looks like it is a momentary type which means that it is not s simple on/off switch. Having said that, if you are taking the power wires down the stand it is not too much extra to do the same with the switch wires and replace the switch with a nicer one in the base.
Thanks for responding! 🙏 I like the idea of leaving the switch on...I'll need a wooden base.
It's looking great !
Oh wow! Awesome work sirrrrrrrrrr. 👏. Looking forward to seeing more. 👍 ❤️
Fascinating part 2 video Phil; really enjoy your efforts and explanations of the Route you chose to follow. That Camel yellow really pops … looking forward to seeing part 3!
I really like that camel yellow. Your model your rules :)
Got mine Phil, added to my stash. Getting my Seaview in the coming week. I use to use a couple of foam plates staples together, as a kid, with a couple of wings glued on and play with it in the tub, crashing it into the water. LOL. Maybe I could do it fifty years later(older) again.lol.
Love it! Cheers Brent! Enjoy!
If I had a "wine" I thought the drawings for the blow-ups of the assembly could have been a lot larger with details. Even if it was a download able PDF would have been okay, not those mashes reductions.
Hey Phil… I AM enjoying your build as it comes together. I like the camel yellow, looks good. And don’t listen to the naysayers. Who cares if it’s an old kit. Lastly. I like that you test different things and products like you did with the floor. I do the same with my builds. It’s your model… you build it the way you want it.
Can’t wait to see how your base come out.
I love the color you put on this! It looks really great!
A fine Part two... looking forward to sea-scapes with your fine tutoring - cometh the third instalment.
It’s going to be a wash in color with a splash of genius! 😂
Lou is a building genius but so are you Phil!!! Love your work and this build while in the beginning stages is already looking phenomenal! Always enjoy videos please keep them coming!!
Also the electronics that come with kits or bought separately can be really inadequate. I'm building the Deagostini Millennium Falcon and the stock electronics are truly pitiful. The board is like a remnant from the era of the Commodore 64. My IT looked at it and laughed.
I upgraded and bought aftermarket electronics with SFX. So much better. Well worth the monies.
I am looking forward to seeing your ocean base ,the kit looks great so far and that base will really set it off nicely!
I'm here because I have built this and that over time-- including the Aurora version of the FS1. So I like seeing what's doin'. Plus, you're good at feeling your way and showing us.
Yes, you should re-think that stand-- 'flimsy' ain't the word. I just went through this with Lou-- opposite consideration-- his base for the Eagle 5 was not flimsy at all. You could substitute it for a car jack stand. But that's no never mind! Something wrong with brass tubing? Maybe it's just me. If I wanted a water effect, without breaking the surface, I would just get a square of ripple acrylic (like found in a shower stall). Seems like you're running in a whole lotta materials and technique. Still, as I recall someone saying, it's your model. And-- yessir, still curious about your outcome. You have the disquieting result of down talking your efforts and yielding something quite good. I can wait.
Something that may be well beyond what's possible now, I think you might want to re-think that EL sheet lighting. I know space is at a premium-- but something's not right with that thing. I remember EL products and they are much brighter than that -- all room lighting conditions notwithstanding. (They will dim with time-- an alarmingly short period of time.) I think you might consider a step beside your electronics comfort zone and think of building a rank of LEDs to replace that thing. Little guys, of course, that would fire along the underside. I know, it's a lot. But ask your chum Wayne, he might have an easier solution.
Always insightful and generous with your thoughts and ideas. The stand is no long flimsy as you will see in part three! This lighting kit is tragic but sometimes I build what’s available for those who want to use these items! All trial and error for me and a genuine learning curb. Cheers!
I envy him, I am also a fan of Irwin Allen, unfortunately in my country there is no possibility of getting fictional modeling, so I have been forced to badly replace my illusion as a child with unrealistic 3D.
Curious, did you seal the top hatch?
I did. Personally I don’t like “playing” with my models - I view them as works of art to be appreciated from a far. I have no problem with those who like to look inside by leaving the hatch lose. It’s just not my thing.
What color and brand paint?
Tamiya sun yellow - it’s the primer that helps tone it down.
Hi I built this in 1965
BUILD WHAT MAKES Y-O-U HAPPY PHILL.....P.S. IGNORE THIS CRAZY-MAN BELOW ME.....EXCEPT WHATEVER HE SAYS ABOUT MODELS, LIGHTING, PAINT.PAINTING, PAINT MASKS, SWITCHES AND OVER-ALL MODELING ADVICE....................Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!