Still waiting for someone to make a transparent gun/barrel so we can see the whole action happening. Maybe it only lasts once but I think it would still be interesting.
Make a wheel that tests how fast shoes can run before they fly apart. Test different shoes and make a leader board. Then do the same with high heels. You're welcome.
❤okay gentlemen If you want to stop a bullet ie. A 5.56 you need to do one of two things 1 absorb the energy before it's can penetrate or 2 destroy the projectile before it can penetrate Ceramic tiles are a good way of removing the outer casing but it can't absorb the energy of the mass so I would suggest trying other layers of different densities For instance I've used ceramic,epoxy ,hardened steel washers, and then I put fiberglass mats with resin and compressed in to a mold with c clamps for a week and the best results were when I overlapped the hardened washers It stopped everything except 338 lapua with a steel core It's all about the layers Boys Cool hi speed footage Cheers 🇨🇦😁👍🏻 Just saying
In a bullet proof armor, you're suppose to have a first layer made of a material that shatters and dissipates the energy of the projectile, followed by a material that resembles fiber so it acts as a net for the fragments. The reason the fiberglass worked so well, is because it had the tile to dissipate the force of the bullet, and after the material that's suppose to break is broken, the armor is no longer functional.
@@umcara3784 He mentions it when discussing the fiberglass panel, but I am too lazy to dive for a timestamp. As for why he didn't do it on the kevlar, it's because he was trying to compare a professional solution to a homemade counterfeit (which performed on par, if at a bit larger thickness). I agree that I'd love to see a kevlar one of similar construction to the fiberglass. You should reply to the pinned comment with that suggestion.
The last armor would be a lot better if you had Kevlar in the middle instead of wood. I also think it would be better with no wood and just thicker metal. Would probably affect the cost a lot though.
It's a very obvious thing to say, but if you want efficient body armor you should take weight into account as well. Like, a 1m³ concrete block can hold a bullet and it's cheap, but that doesn't mean you're going to carry it in a war or something.
I may be wrong but I believe I saw a video a while ago testing Kevlar... but they did it two different ways. One was just putting the sheets in something to secure them together and the other was using resin to make a block of Kevlar. The sheets together worked better because the Kevlar flexing when being shot help slow down and stop the bullet while the resin one just basically shatters...... now thinking about it that could have been fiberglass but I believe the same principles apply since they're similar as in a strong weaved material. Also someone else made a comment that I was sort of thinking of but the layers of armor matter. First layer takes a majority of the impact taking energy away (why the tile is a good first layer) the rest are to slow it down and attempt to stop it. Soft body armor is a thing where they have a vest just filled with Kevlar sheets basically like a pillow but instead of foam/feathers/etc. inside its sheets of Kevlar.
A construction site i worked at required bullet proof rooms on all 12 stories. ALL the walls had this fibre glass reinforcement floor to ceiling. I took a core sample home from drilling one out, my calipers show 30mm THICC.
Get 26 individual 1 mm thick mild steel plates and shoot multiple different caliber rounds at it to see how many millimeters of mild steel stop each bullet.
Follow Hard-soft-hard-soft-etc material-stacking-method: (because) a bullet exiting solid-brittle-material into soft-strate encourages it to tumble instead of spin; loosing helical-motion, a bullet, can't screw dynamically into targets as a linear force, & deviates wildly; so even a few layers of hard-soft-hard-materials can absorb more penetration than solid lumber four-times as thick: reason for tile-wainscotting, wall-insulation, & watertable.
Would be great to see you guys try the composite armour at the end but using 2 plates to make a shallow V so that the bullet has more armour to pentrate (at an angle) and is more likely to deflect off it.
I'd go for 3+ ceramic tiles with a few layers of kevlar in between them. Back it with a smidge more kevlar. The goal here is to use the plates to absorb/redirect the kinetic energy of the bullet, and then slow what comes through a bit (with the kevlar) before it hits the next layer. Potentially 4 plates in the above arrangement with a thin sheet of metal in the back to act as a final catcher for shrapnel. Bet that stops a 5.56!
The reason the kevlar did worse with the 556 is because kevelar is designed to stop PISTOL rounds. So the kevelar may have actually stopped the 556 completely with the tile. This is how bullet proof vests that stop rifle rounds work. Ceramic tiles break the bullet apart and some sort of soft armoir like kevlar catches the fragments.
You should have done a second test on the tile + fiberglass with the 9mm in the tileless section. That would have been a better demonstration of just how important the tile is. The vise also doesn't represent proper testing conditions as it fixes the plating in place. It likely wouldn't have changed anything but a better test would have been to tie the plating to the wood (made heavier to simulate a body) with a piece of cloth in between to factor in clothing.
Tank armor now uses Ceramic plates in part of it's composition. It turns out when ceramics are hit by high speed projectiles the fracturing of the ceramic composite takes away tremendous energy and mitigates penetration significantly.
I think you should have tested the $50 one a little more as it seems like the ceramic is all that was blocking the bullets. The Kevlar is going to outperform if you are getting shot more than a single time.
The tile you used isn't porcelain. You used ceramic tiles. There is a little bit of a difference, but I don't know how much of a difference it would have made to the test. The plywood used could have also been different from the one used by the original maker. The wood, glue type, and grain orientation could all have effected the strength of the armor.
Maybe instead of a single tile that gets compromised in one shot you could use smaller tiles so the 9mm test doesn't affect the 5.56. Might be worth it to give your fiberglass armor another chance though I’d also increase the thickness of the fiberglass backing itself. Porcelain is also harder than terracotta and might help to break the bullet up more.
Use drywall seam fiberglass tape and wrap some ceramic hexagons floor tile and pour epoxy over it. Also instead of epoxy try bondo to cover the fiberglass tape
The prison my dad works at gave them mandatory body armor to prevent stabbings... And it literally doesn't stop a knife. You did better than Arkansas government
For something ready made and affordable, try Gong targets. Caldwell is a big manufacturer, but there are others. They are targets designed to make a ringing noise when hit, hence the name Gong. They have to survive a lot of hits, and often in some pretty powerful calibers so they are usually made from AR500 armor steel. And there are a variety of shapes and sizes, some of them large enough to fit in plate carriers. For something more home brew, I've wondered if an updated version of the WW2 plastic armour could be made. There is a Wikipedia article, but it was protection for the bridge and gun positions of merchant ships against machine gun and auto cannon fire made by mixing hard and soft gravel with tar and molding it onto the ship's steel bulkheads. Maybe Rhino liner could replace the tar? Fiberglass for the backing? And ceramic ball bearings for the gravel?
@@WaterjetChannel Was the professionally made piece marketed as being an armor panel, and who made it? Same problem would apply to that piece as well. Kevlar's bullet catching abilities come from its flexibility and elasticity. Should try again with the kevlar without any impregnation of resin. Maybe use duct tape or doublesided tape to hold the fabric together. Another factor is to alternate the weave pattern for each layer. Offset the weave pattern by 30°-45° each layer.
@@WaterjetChannelit’s definitely important the Kevlar be allowed to move. It quite literally “catches” projectiles, so fixing it in resin would eliminate its method of stopping a bullet.
Kevlar is not very good at stopping a bullet if it is made ridged it needs the give to absorb the force while slowing the bullet down. Your fiberglass panel worked so well because the tile broke the bullet up and the fiberglass was able to catch it. Placing a ceramic tile on the kevlar panels (ither of them) would result in better performance than the fiberglass panel but not by as much as you might thing. Encasing a tile or tiles in layers of fiberglass on both surfaces would break up the bullet as it struck the tile and contain more of the tile allowing for multiple impacts being stopped heavy duty rubber would also work ceramic armor plate are made this way heavy rubber ceramic that is bonded to kevlar
Kevlar loses it's effectiveness when solidified via resin. It would have been better to have solid first and last level, then keep the middle soft. Or add a ceramic faceplate
Stopping 5.56 isnt really that hard. The hard part is stopping it materials that you can wear for hours. The trade off for protection is weight, and if you wind up wearing hundreds of pounds of protective gear its not worth it.
I spent half of the video thinking you were filming slo-mo with very expensive, high end, anamorphic lenses 😮🤯🤩 …But then I remembered that you got the Phantom Camera’s for ‘cheap’ off NASA, as they weren’t sure if they really worked any more - and that the long horizontal stripes through the middle of the image weren’t anamorphic lens flares, but issues with the cameras sensor! But still! These cameras an amazing find (please protect them when your shooting that close to them!) - but also, if you ever wanted to hide the defect,aim the camera towards a light/the sun, and pretend your using super expensive lenses 🤩🙌😎
Smart man 😏😏 this video was the first one we filmed with them even though we posted it second. We’re discovering with more light the stripes aren’t as visible, so hopefully we can figure out how to hide them entirely!
may i say that this video is a tier or two or three above those previous? sheesh bois. I am really enjoying myself enjoying this. major editing prowess.
Ok, this one deserves a like. Normally I wouldn't thumbs up your videos, because bought and not built, but you did okay this time. I still think the dude that licks things and his sidekick need to come back, but I `spose that isn't happening.
15:33 "That does not make any sense" But it does. The force needed to deform the metal probably caused it to heat up enough to melt the bottle. It's like when you keep bending a paper clip until it breaks and you feel how warm it was, but at least an order of magnitude higher
What other experiments should we try with our new phantom cameras?
Homemade Explosive Reactive Armor
live fart cam
Still waiting for someone to make a transparent gun/barrel so we can see the whole action happening. Maybe it only lasts once but I think it would still be interesting.
Make a wheel that tests how fast shoes can run before they fly apart. Test different shoes and make a leader board. Then do the same with high heels. You're welcome.
@@drantigon yes. simulate the effects of a fart on different pant fabrics
❤okay gentlemen
If you want to stop a bullet ie. A 5.56 you need to do one of two things
1 absorb the energy before it's can penetrate or
2 destroy the projectile before it can penetrate
Ceramic tiles are a good way of removing the outer casing but it can't absorb the energy of the mass so
I would suggest trying other layers of different densities
For instance I've used ceramic,epoxy ,hardened steel washers, and then I put fiberglass mats with resin and compressed in to a mold with c clamps for a week and the best results were when I overlapped the hardened washers
It stopped everything except 338 lapua with a steel core
It's all about the layers
Boys
Cool hi speed footage
Cheers
🇨🇦😁👍🏻
Just saying
Thank you Mr Canadian man
In a bullet proof armor, you're suppose to have a first layer made of a material that shatters and dissipates the energy of the projectile, followed by a material that resembles fiber so it acts as a net for the fragments. The reason the fiberglass worked so well, is because it had the tile to dissipate the force of the bullet, and after the material that's suppose to break is broken, the armor is no longer functional.
He explains that in the video lol
@@haphazardprism can you mark when? Why wouldn't he add tiles to the ones with kevlar ir he already knew?
@@umcara3784 He mentions it when discussing the fiberglass panel, but I am too lazy to dive for a timestamp. As for why he didn't do it on the kevlar, it's because he was trying to compare a professional solution to a homemade counterfeit (which performed on par, if at a bit larger thickness).
I agree that I'd love to see a kevlar one of similar construction to the fiberglass. You should reply to the pinned comment with that suggestion.
I mean you can do that, HDPE armor isn't like this usually. Yet retains the ability to stop a bullet.
Prolly why ceramic ones are made of different smaller times so it can block more bullets provided you don't get twice near the same area
The tile was a critical part of the $50 armor, it breaks up the bullet enough to make the kevlar effective
When there’s a Phantom camera involved, you know it’s gonna be cool
Im glad you used the tile as the strike face, ceramic is great at stopping bullets and tightknit fibers are good at catching fragments
The last armor would be a lot better if you had Kevlar in the middle instead of wood. I also think it would be better with no wood and just thicker metal. Would probably affect the cost a lot though.
And the weight.
It's a very obvious thing to say, but if you want efficient body armor you should take weight into account as well. Like, a 1m³ concrete block can hold a bullet and it's cheap, but that doesn't mean you're going to carry it in a war or something.
I may be wrong but I believe I saw a video a while ago testing Kevlar... but they did it two different ways. One was just putting the sheets in something to secure them together and the other was using resin to make a block of Kevlar. The sheets together worked better because the Kevlar flexing when being shot help slow down and stop the bullet while the resin one just basically shatters...... now thinking about it that could have been fiberglass but I believe the same principles apply since they're similar as in a strong weaved material.
Also someone else made a comment that I was sort of thinking of but the layers of armor matter. First layer takes a majority of the impact taking energy away (why the tile is a good first layer) the rest are to slow it down and attempt to stop it.
Soft body armor is a thing where they have a vest just filled with Kevlar sheets basically like a pillow but instead of foam/feathers/etc. inside its sheets of Kevlar.
A construction site i worked at required bullet proof rooms on all 12 stories. ALL the walls had this fibre glass reinforcement floor to ceiling. I took a core sample home from drilling one out, my calipers show 30mm THICC.
Get 26 individual 1 mm thick mild steel plates and shoot multiple different caliber rounds at it to see how many millimeters of mild steel stop each bullet.
Test this (silicone glue):
Non-tempered glass
1/8 inch plastic sheet
Silk (5 layers epoxy)
Tempered glass
1/4 inch rubber sheet
Fiberglass (5 layers epoxy)
Thin sheet steel
Follow Hard-soft-hard-soft-etc material-stacking-method: (because) a bullet exiting solid-brittle-material into soft-strate encourages it to tumble instead of spin; loosing helical-motion, a bullet, can't screw dynamically into targets as a linear force, & deviates wildly; so even a few layers of hard-soft-hard-materials can absorb more penetration than solid lumber four-times as thick: reason for tile-wainscotting, wall-insulation, & watertable.
Thanks for being hilarious while also providing us with this much needed evidence of scientic tests conducted!
Would be great to see you guys try the composite armour at the end but using 2 plates to make a shallow V so that the bullet has more armour to pentrate (at an angle) and is more likely to deflect off it.
2:39 I've never seen such an amazing form for carrying heavy weight.
6:46 JONARD sponsorship on the horizon for WJC
I'd go for 3+ ceramic tiles with a few layers of kevlar in between them. Back it with a smidge more kevlar. The goal here is to use the plates to absorb/redirect the kinetic energy of the bullet, and then slow what comes through a bit (with the kevlar) before it hits the next layer. Potentially 4 plates in the above arrangement with a thin sheet of metal in the back to act as a final catcher for shrapnel. Bet that stops a 5.56!
Lean into the gun content, we/youtube viewers love gun content!
The reason the kevlar did worse with the 556 is because kevelar is designed to stop PISTOL rounds. So the kevelar may have actually stopped the 556 completely with the tile. This is how bullet proof vests that stop rifle rounds work. Ceramic tiles break the bullet apart and some sort of soft armoir like kevlar catches the fragments.
The squatter bit hit too close to home
You should have done a second test on the tile + fiberglass with the 9mm in the tileless section. That would have been a better demonstration of just how important the tile is.
The vise also doesn't represent proper testing conditions as it fixes the plating in place. It likely wouldn't have changed anything but a better test would have been to tie the plating to the wood (made heavier to simulate a body) with a piece of cloth in between to factor in clothing.
12:18 Tony Robbins jumpscare 💀
Just a side note, I hope “Tony Throbbins” is an adult actor stage name
@@RandomBogey Thanks for sharing Bogey
Fiberglass layer inspiration from ZNA?
I kind of liked the view from inside the pallet. It was really looking up.
8:06 "oooo self burn, those are rare" 😂
I burn myself all the time.
You need 5-10 layers of kevlar/glass behind the metal, it can catch 556 easily
1/4 in hdpe compressed, tile, fiberglass 1/4 in hdpe compressed. Should perform quite well.
The "Inside the Pallet Workbench Shot" made me wish Walter Jet never showed his face. 8/10.
Conclusion: don't go where you feel you should prepare in advance with bulletproof armor.
So, the entirety of North America
The entirety of the middle east
@@legitscoper3259don't fear because I'm armed first and live in a place that's not shit.
Next time you make fiberglass like that try a bag of glitter in the resin. Might make some cool shots for when you shoot it?
the fact that the scissors came with a holster is so funny to me
This is Your reminder to use mold release
🙏
You know if you replaced the wood in the last one with fiberglass layers it'd be even better
Going from 9mm to 556 was a pretty big jump
Tank armor now uses Ceramic plates in part of it's composition. It turns out when ceramics are hit by high speed projectiles the fracturing of the ceramic composite takes away tremendous energy and mitigates penetration significantly.
I think you should have tested the $50 one a little more as it seems like the ceramic is all that was blocking the bullets. The Kevlar is going to outperform if you are getting shot more than a single time.
Reminds me of when we tried growing plants without light and they actually grew taller than the ones with light
In a vest the kevlar is loose, not hard laminated. The bullet gets sort of "tangled".
You're not supposed to put resin with Kevlar, atleast bullet proof Kevlar plates
You shouldve put a few layers of kevlar behind the steel plate to catch the fragments because that is exactly what kevlar is meant to do.
i think you need to back the ceramic with Kevlar to catch the fragments
No way tile and fiberglass can stop 556 and 9 mil... These guys are so awesome and I love it.
My therapist: Tony Robbins isn’t real he can’t hurt you.
Tony Robbins: 12:21
I'm glad you had fun on your fancy smancy trip. And I'm glad you shoved us in a pallet.10/10 Excellent video!
Once the fibers get damaged, isnt kevlar less effective? Shoulda shot it with the 5.56 first?
the best way to stop small caliber rounds is angled armor, but thats not practical for worn body armor
Use a little bit less hardener in your epoxy.. So it stays a bit flexible.. I wonder if it would help to absorb the energy.
The tile you used isn't porcelain. You used ceramic tiles. There is a little bit of a difference, but I don't know how much of a difference it would have made to the test. The plywood used could have also been different from the one used by the original maker. The wood, glue type, and grain orientation could all have effected the strength of the armor.
Maybe instead of a single tile that gets compromised in one shot you could use smaller tiles so the 9mm test doesn't affect the 5.56. Might be worth it to give your fiberglass armor another chance though I’d also increase the thickness of the fiberglass backing itself. Porcelain is also harder than terracotta and might help to break the bullet up more.
Use drywall seam fiberglass tape and wrap some ceramic hexagons floor tile and pour epoxy over it. Also instead of epoxy try bondo to cover the fiberglass tape
The prison my dad works at gave them mandatory body armor to prevent stabbings... And it literally doesn't stop a knife. You did better than Arkansas government
For something ready made and affordable, try Gong targets. Caldwell is a big manufacturer, but there are others. They are targets designed to make a ringing noise when hit, hence the name Gong. They have to survive a lot of hits, and often in some pretty powerful calibers so they are usually made from AR500 armor steel. And there are a variety of shapes and sizes, some of them large enough to fit in plate carriers. For something more home brew, I've wondered if an updated version of the WW2 plastic armour could be made. There is a Wikipedia article, but it was protection for the bridge and gun positions of merchant ships against machine gun and auto cannon fire made by mixing hard and soft gravel with tar and molding it onto the ship's steel bulkheads. Maybe Rhino liner could replace the tar? Fiberglass for the backing? And ceramic ball bearings for the gravel?
Bet the resin used ruined the properties of the kevlar.
Yeah we thought the same thing. That’s why we used the professionally made piece as well, but they both seemed about the same 🤔
@@WaterjetChannel Was the professionally made piece marketed as being an armor panel, and who made it? Same problem would apply to that piece as well. Kevlar's bullet catching abilities come from its flexibility and elasticity. Should try again with the kevlar without any impregnation of resin. Maybe use duct tape or doublesided tape to hold the fabric together. Another factor is to alternate the weave pattern for each layer. Offset the weave pattern by 30°-45° each layer.
@@WaterjetChannelit’s definitely important the Kevlar be allowed to move. It quite literally “catches” projectiles, so fixing it in resin would eliminate its method of stopping a bullet.
Request: bulletproof vest on waterjet
Kevlar is not very good at stopping a bullet if it is made ridged it needs the give to absorb the force while slowing the bullet down. Your fiberglass panel worked so well because the tile broke the bullet up and the fiberglass was able to catch it. Placing a ceramic tile on the kevlar panels (ither of them) would result in better performance than the fiberglass panel but not by as much as you might thing. Encasing a tile or tiles in layers of fiberglass on both surfaces would break up the bullet as it struck the tile and contain more of the tile allowing for multiple impacts being stopped heavy duty rubber would also work ceramic armor plate are made this way heavy rubber ceramic that is bonded to kevlar
Throwback to idat who actually stopped a bullet with a book
Kevlar loses it's effectiveness when solidified via resin. It would have been better to have solid first and last level, then keep the middle soft. Or add a ceramic faceplate
Stopping 5.56 isnt really that hard. The hard part is stopping it materials that you can wear for hours. The trade off for protection is weight, and if you wind up wearing hundreds of pounds of protective gear its not worth it.
I spent half of the video thinking you were filming slo-mo with very expensive, high end, anamorphic lenses 😮🤯🤩
…But then I remembered that you got the Phantom Camera’s for ‘cheap’ off NASA, as they weren’t sure if they really worked any more - and that the long horizontal stripes through the middle of the image weren’t anamorphic lens flares, but issues with the cameras sensor!
But still! These cameras an amazing find (please protect them when your shooting that close to them!) - but also, if you ever wanted to hide the defect,aim the camera towards a light/the sun, and pretend your using super expensive lenses 🤩🙌😎
Smart man 😏😏 this video was the first one we filmed with them even though we posted it second. We’re discovering with more light the stripes aren’t as visible, so hopefully we can figure out how to hide them entirely!
I think it would have worked better if you used mold release
“Colt 45 and two zig zags”
Baby that’s all you need
thats seriously interesting, Also, good call watermarking the slow-mo footage!
Thanks!
may i say that this video is a tier or two or three above those previous? sheesh bois. I am really enjoying myself enjoying this. major editing prowess.
Need to test mix of fiber glasses and the ceramic wood metal
Love the new slo mo camera !
I mean if you can get your hands on it then just buy some AR500 armor. That will save your life for sure..besides a 50 BMG
The thumb is pretty good ngl
LOOK AT THIS GRAPH!!
What ever happened to the 2 that run this page
you guys really need to watch The slow mo guys.
Who would use a book, live on a stream, vs a magnum. That would never be a good idea
I hope you guys have protection from shrapnel for those beautiful cameras 😭
I totally thought this was a demolition ranch video
bulletproof a car, now that you can make armour and glass.
book plus resin between all the pages
Bro went to visit my home country real quick, lmao
Nice inside-the-pallet-workbench-shot at 13:03. Silly POV. 😁
3:30 Should have used those tiles with a lot of small independent squares hanging together on a mesh. If you know what I'm talking about. 😅
by the way you are supposed to put a nice place of metal behing the cevelar just like in real armor
How many books to stop a bullet
Is that half a book at the beginning?! Was it cut by the waterjet in a former video? 🙃
Other UA-cam did with a deagle .50 didn't go well
You should try kevlar-tile-kevlar-tile-etc
That book didn't even try
Is he lying there in the sun without a shirt. And nice video
That book could do it if you soak it in the water first.
why not use a bullet detecting gun turret that shoots the enemy bullet out of the air
So no credit to ZNA for the fiberglass micarta design?
Yo hello everyone the behind angle couldnt be shown rest in peace in peace now peace out until next time
Not only you get hit by 556 but you get fibermialga
Baby that's all we need
Ok, this one deserves a like. Normally I wouldn't thumbs up your videos, because bought and not built, but you did okay this time. I still think the dude that licks things and his sidekick need to come back, but I `spose that isn't happening.
15:33
"That does not make any sense"
But it does. The force needed to deform the metal probably caused it to heat up enough to melt the bottle. It's like when you keep bending a paper clip until it breaks and you feel how warm it was, but at least an order of magnitude higher
Water jet a lipo! Also, was this filmed in hoble creek canyon?
this video was fire why does it have so little cviews
Let me know if you want a .50 BMG for future videos.
1:59 someone been in the gym 💪🏼💪🏼
What is the artifacting on the slow mo video?
Just use the block of wood for armor