@@MattIsTheCat You think, but the shit he actually makes is top tier. So it kind of fucks with you because the entire video you're like 'hah, how dumb!' but then at the end it somehow fucking magically works perfectly and you end up pissed. same with that weird little asian guy
I like that the premise of this video is that "if people can see what they are doing they will get injured less" and he proceeds to make a frag grenade
He's definitely determined plausibility here. Steel saws break also. If this got into the hands of more capable individuals or companies there are definitely positive applications. People thought sawstop was a stupid idea too.
I love how you can see that these "sawblades" are more an equivalent to shovels than saws. It doesn't cut as much as it chips the wood and then flings out big chunks of wood at a time
@@RyanEglitis Exactly correct. All saws use teeth, just most have edges, alignment, and other parameters that have been finely engineered to make then create clean, fast cuts with as little damage as possible. One that doesn't care as much are chain saws, because their use is rapid cutting in cases where clean cuts are less needed. They basically just cheese grater the wood on a thin strip.
@@ruben_balea did you know that some humans can regrow chopped off finger bits as long the beginning segment of the particularly affected Phalange is intact? it is more common on children too!.
@@vanconojl Yes, my grandmother's finger grew back where it was cut off with a sickle, but that happened just after the Spanish civil war and she only had acess to natural remedies and kept the wound bandaged until it healed on its own, perhaps that helped🤔
This video made History!!! While watching it, I said out loud to myself, "That is one tough piece of Balsa!" which is the first time that's ever been said in all of Human History! Well done, crew!
@@HappyWheelsSpeedrunneryou fool, by pointing out an obvious joke you missed the obvious joke on the comment you were replying too. the only one missing jokes here, is you. for shame.
pine is actually a softwood, and balsa is a hardwood. it turns out the definition isn't really about how hard the wood is, but about the way the fibers are laid out or something
If you ever try the plastic wrap again you might try a t-shirt heat press. It has a controllable heat setting and will apply even heat and pressure. Just make sure you put in in between two sheets of parchment paper so you don't melt the wrap too the press.
You don't need to melt it at all. Just take the self-sticky layers, cut out a shape, and then let the centrifugal force of the saw keep it in shape. Also, could have sprayed the plastic-wrap blade with a hose of water while it was running to keep it cool.
I like how that box was made with a slot in it but it was backwards lol. Then they still use the box and just reach over it only exposing the arteries in his wrist. Genius I tell ya
i think the box is meant to sit entirely over the saw, in which case the slot would be the right way around, but yeah this is like the least safe safety method possible.
0:16 and that is half the reason why I was always taught in woodworking classes to use a block of wood to push things through saws. Also had a classmate stupidly using their leg to prop up some wood while cutting with a handheld circular saw. His quadricep became a mess on the floor.
Machinist here. There is a secret to cutting using hard tools. It's fixture rigidity. If you ran the same tests again with glass blades in a stiff slow moving rig it would cut. Wrap the saw arbour in tape if loose, then use a layer of thick cardstock paper.
The hole in the middle should be round so the bolt won't catch like its supposed to and create a point-load that will shatter the glass. Make the hole bigger and use a thick rubber o-ring to keep any glass from touching metal
Real sawblades have splayed teeth with sharpened edges. The splay of the teeth is wider than the rest of the blade. This both reduces friction and binding against the bare wood, but also helps clear the saw dust which causes a lot of friction and binding as well. It also exposes more cutting surface area which is the main advantage making for more efficient cuts. Perhaps by making a two half mold, one for a each side of a real sawblade, and heating a transparent material to malleability, and by using weight or a powered-press to compression mold the material into a more accurate sawblade, there might be better results.
Glue on carbide tips. I would say the improved cutting surface will vastly improve the cutting lifespan, it also keeps 99% of the blade clear and still achieving the visual goal.
you should try e-glass or nano glass that is specifically made to be tougher than steel, or metal infused glass, which is used in military and aerospace construction
He should make a submarine to go look at the titanic. He can't do any worse than that dude who made the shell out of carbon fibre and controlled it with a cheap game controller.
You don't need the flats in the arber hole if you're using rubber washers. You don't want the board under the wood so the wood stays against the fence between and doesn't move around.
low pressure pierce the glass or start cutting off of the plate and it won't shatter... as long as it isn't tempered, that stuff shatters no matter what.
I can attest that carbide/diamond tipped bits allow one to drill into glass, ceramic, enamel and all other interesting things. Normal bits are at... considerable disadvantage here.
If you ever do saran wrap again, just cut right off the roll, it's already layered, it just may not be wide enough that's all. I would say it needs pressure after heating. so maybe a manual hydraulic press made with a car jack and some wood plates bolted into a frame or under something heavy. You could take a Dremel tool or belt sander and get a small edge on the teeth, it will help alot. Maybe serrated even. ATM you are using a chipping method, only really good for carbide tool bits.
Drill bits made specifically for glass/ceramic exist, my dude. Place some painters' tape on the drill site, and use whitening toothpaste as an abbrasive lubricant (oxymoron I know, but trust me).
I've drilled tempered glass a few times (glass pot lids, to make extra vent holes) submerged (the glass, not me 😅) under a few centimeters of water both with a 10 mm Bosch MultiConstruccion drill bit and with an specific 10 mm "arrow head" drill bit, applying a very very light pressure* and using a cheap *cordless drill to not get electrocuted* and to not damage my good or at least expensive cordless drill. First I tried enlarging the factory made vent hole and broke two lids in a row, then I decided to try making new holes and drilled another five lids without breaking any more. I use them for cooking and wash them in the dishwasher and so far they have lasted more than 10 years. *So light that I spent about 40 minutes to drill each lid and the glass must be only 3 or 4 mm thick.
Yes I make bonsai pots out of everyday ceramics (bowls baking dishes etc)by simply adding a hole using a diamond core bit. Works every time .can take a while but it's worth it
The ockham razor, when a solution bring more question than answers, it's probably not the right way 😅. For me, the first idea was it's last... the plexiglass
Saw blades have a hardened piece of steel soldered to each tooth and that is what actually cuts. This dude could glue 1 to each tooth of that plastic saw and get the same affect.
Thanks, Mom! And thank you too for making videos that always make me happy! Also, can you try a marble saw blade? And, I can't remember. Did you already make one out of resin?
Love the effort you put in. A couple of suggestions, I think speed would help cut alot better, also if you baked the glass in a kiln or or furnace for pottery would greatly help aswell. Sweet videos
Make your own janky version of bulletproof glass, the polycarbonate would keep it together and the glass would give it the sharpness. Would have to be thin sheets for both or it's not going on the saw. Could also make 3 and 5 ply versions.
Scared of metal blade so creates an invisible blade that shatters into thousands of sharp pieces that fly everywhere, seems legit. Now you understand why they make them from metal.
11:28 i am like 99% sure I know why you have that problem. You see in an actual saw blade the teeth are ever so slightly bend outwards alternating left and right. Due to that the cut they make is a bit wider then the blade and that is pretty important. Without that you get way too much friction, which is why it was so slow, and the blade likes to get stuck. Another problem is that actual saw tooth are sharp,, and I am not sure if yours are. You might want to file them a bit.
The easiest and probably best way to melt the plastic wrap would likely be in an oven. With some weight on top and setting the temperature just above the melting point you would get a gentle remolding of the plastic without damaging the polymer itself. Just don't do it in an oven you cook food in :) Biggest issue would be internal bubbles completely ruining the strength. The only DIY way to get them out that I am aware of is kneading and twisting with multiple reheats and thus forcing most of them out. A lot of manual work. The best thing to do whenever possible is to not get air mixed in at all - so for example cutting the whole roll lengthwise and just melting with the concaves pointing up so it melts nicely into a flat sheet. That should yield air-free clean LDPE for further shaping. For glass - a really neat trick to be aware of is that glass (and any material prone to cracking in general) will have much less chance to shatter if you drill or cut it while submerged in water. Thin glass can even be roughly cut with a pair of scissors in this way. Also great on tiles you are afraid to ruin. Should also work for brittle plastics like acrylic, but I haven't personally tested that yet. The exact physics of this phenomenon is a little beyond my expertise - but it has to do with the higher equal pressure on all surfaces reducing shatter-points quite significantly. You still can't cut or drill into tempered glass though - so don't even try. Or at least keep a broom handy to clean up the inevitable mess :P
There's finally a maker channel that makes me feel like a genius.
relatable
William Osman may have a similar effect.
Just because you can doesn't mean you should.
@@MattIsTheCat You think, but the shit he actually makes is top tier. So it kind of fucks with you because the entire video you're like 'hah, how dumb!' but then at the end it somehow fucking magically works perfectly and you end up pissed. same with that weird little asian guy
This channel has always been that.
I like that the premise of this video is that "if people can see what they are doing they will get injured less" and he proceeds to make a frag grenade
Also forgetting that if what's cutting you is invisible, how would you know where _not_ to put your hand?
He's definitely determined plausibility here. Steel saws break also. If this got into the hands of more capable individuals or companies there are definitely positive applications. People thought sawstop was a stupid idea too.
I love how you can see that these "sawblades" are more an equivalent to shovels than saws. It doesn't cut as much as it chips the wood and then flings out big chunks of wood at a time
Glorified watermill
That's more or less how all saws work though. Some are just better at cutting the fibers at the edges than others.
@@RyanEglitis Exactly correct. All saws use teeth, just most have edges, alignment, and other parameters that have been finely engineered to make then create clean, fast cuts with as little damage as possible. One that doesn't care as much are chain saws, because their use is rapid cutting in cases where clean cuts are less needed. They basically just cheese grater the wood on a thin strip.
Welcome to how sawblades work.
Bro boutta make his hand invisible too
I made 1/4 of my right thumb invisible and it is not very practical so I decided to keep my other 9-3/4 fingers visible for as long as possible 😬
@@ruben_balea did you know that some humans can regrow chopped off finger bits as long the beginning segment of the particularly affected Phalange is intact? it is more common on children too!.
@@vanconojl Yes, my grandmother's finger grew back where it was cut off with a sickle, but that happened just after the Spanish civil war and she only had acess to natural remedies and kept the wound bandaged until it healed on its own, perhaps that helped🤔
This video made History!!! While watching it, I said out loud to myself, "That is one tough piece of Balsa!" which is the first time that's ever been said in all of Human History! Well done, crew!
I like how he just refuses to learn anything.
Keeps breaking glass blades because the wood shifts, refuses to clamp in correctly.
Oh course! What better way to avoid touching something than by completely removing the ability to see it! Pure genius!
Ikr?!
THATS WHAT I THOUGHT
its a joke
@@YG_NoYou it is a joke
@@HappyWheelsSpeedrunneryou fool, by pointing out an obvious joke you missed the obvious joke on the comment you were replying too. the only one missing jokes here, is you.
for shame.
pine is actually a softwood, and balsa is a hardwood. it turns out the definition isn't really about how hard the wood is, but about the way the fibers are laid out or something
Yeah o was amazed when I first discovered that .a weird one hey
If you ever try the plastic wrap again you might try a t-shirt heat press. It has a controllable heat setting and will apply even heat and pressure. Just make sure you put in in between two sheets of parchment paper so you don't melt the wrap too the press.
You don't need to melt it at all. Just take the self-sticky layers, cut out a shape, and then let the centrifugal force of the saw keep it in shape. Also, could have sprayed the plastic-wrap blade with a hose of water while it was running to keep it cool.
@@takanara7 hes trying to make it harder i think, not really a plastic wrap blade anymore but one that isn't melted together ain't gonna cut anything
@@takanara7 I came here to say the hose of water thing. It won't melt if you cool it down, plenty of real saws use coolant!
I like how that box was made with a slot in it but it was backwards lol. Then they still use the box and just reach over it only exposing the arteries in his wrist. Genius I tell ya
i think the box is meant to sit entirely over the saw, in which case the slot would be the right way around, but yeah this is like the least safe safety method possible.
They used the box covering the entire saw in the old video around a year ago
0:16 and that is half the reason why I was always taught in woodworking classes to use a block of wood to push things through saws. Also had a classmate stupidly using their leg to prop up some wood while cutting with a handheld circular saw. His quadricep became a mess on the floor.
Watched a kid in my high-school woodshop class grind off all 4 of his fingers in the wood jointer, tried putting too short of a piece through it
Machinist here. There is a secret to cutting using hard tools. It's fixture rigidity. If you ran the same tests again with glass blades in a stiff slow moving rig it would cut.
Wrap the saw arbour in tape if loose, then use a layer of thick cardstock paper.
The hole in the middle should be round so the bolt won't catch like its supposed to and create a point-load that will shatter the glass. Make the hole bigger and use a thick rubber o-ring to keep any glass from touching metal
Real sawblades have splayed teeth with sharpened edges. The splay of the teeth is wider than the rest of the blade. This both reduces friction and binding against the bare wood, but also helps clear the saw dust which causes a lot of friction and binding as well. It also exposes more cutting surface area which is the main advantage making for more efficient cuts. Perhaps by making a two half mold, one for a each side of a real sawblade, and heating a transparent material to malleability, and by using weight or a powered-press to compression mold the material into a more accurate sawblade, there might be better results.
Glue on carbide tips. I would say the improved cutting surface will vastly improve the cutting lifespan, it also keeps 99% of the blade clear and still achieving the visual goal.
I love the comically intense glass shattering sound during the slow-mo
My man has developed a blast shield case for his chop saw...
Then proceeds to not use it while using the saw to test glass blades.
you should try e-glass or nano glass that is specifically made to be tougher than steel, or metal infused glass, which is used in military and aerospace construction
You should do an episode testing saw blades cut from different metals (lead, brass, tin, aluminum etc)
You need to start a museum of stupid ideas. I'd visit. This one cracked me up, I even had to take cover on this side of my computer!
He should make a submarine to go look at the titanic. He can't do any worse than that dude who made the shell out of carbon fibre and controlled it with a cheap game controller.
The idea of a glass blade scares me. I've been cut many more times by glass than I ever have been by all my power tools combined.
Got to love how you can test on a softer wood then a harder wood and at the same time test on a hardwood then a softwood
You could just make the body of the blade out of plexiglass and keep the teeth in metal.
Somehow, we still don't have a Resin Sawblade, despite several reinforced with resin
Thanks mom!
Thanks mom!
Thanks mom!
Thanks mom!
Thanks mom!
You don't need the flats in the arber hole if you're using rubber washers. You don't want the board under the wood so the wood stays against the fence between and doesn't move around.
Two heated metal plates, one mounted to something solid somehow, one mounted to a car jack. Heat it up while you put pressure with the cat jack
If you wanted to try a less clear version, I wonder how well different types of micarta would work
Maybe use a laminated glass for the blade since the glass w/tape shows promise?
low pressure pierce the glass or start cutting off of the plate and it won't shatter... as long as it isn't tempered, that stuff shatters no matter what.
The slow motion is so satisfying!!!!!!!!!!
You should try spraying the wood with water or coolant while cutting to keep the saw blade from melting as fast
So interesting seeing the properties of glass demonstrated here.
I can attest that carbide/diamond tipped bits allow one to drill into glass, ceramic, enamel and all other interesting things.
Normal bits are at... considerable disadvantage here.
You could try with layered transparent duct tape. Rotate the layers for strength
You can cut glass with scissors if it's underwater
Answering the question: What if "I Made a Thing" were somehow less safe.
waterjets being used on the waterjet channel??1?1!! Madness.
You use the variac to slowly ramp the blade up to MAX speed. Then you let the blade do the work, don't force the saw to cut.
If you ever do saran wrap again, just cut right off the roll, it's already layered, it just may not be wide enough that's all. I would say it needs pressure after heating. so maybe a manual hydraulic press made with a car jack and some wood plates bolted into a frame or under something heavy. You could take a Dremel tool or belt sander and get a small edge on the teeth, it will help alot. Maybe serrated even. ATM you are using a chipping method, only really good for carbide tool bits.
Drill bits made specifically for glass/ceramic exist, my dude. Place some painters' tape on the drill site, and use whitening toothpaste as an abbrasive lubricant (oxymoron I know, but trust me).
I've drilled tempered glass a few times (glass pot lids, to make extra vent holes) submerged (the glass, not me 😅) under a few centimeters of water both with a 10 mm Bosch MultiConstruccion drill bit and with an specific 10 mm "arrow head" drill bit, applying a very very light pressure* and using a cheap *cordless drill to not get electrocuted* and to not damage my good or at least expensive cordless drill.
First I tried enlarging the factory made vent hole and broke two lids in a row, then I decided to try making new holes and drilled another five lids without breaking any more.
I use them for cooking and wash them in the dishwasher and so far they have lasted more than 10 years.
*So light that I spent about 40 minutes to drill each lid and the glass must be only 3 or 4 mm thick.
Yes I make bonsai pots out of everyday ceramics (bowls baking dishes etc)by simply adding a hole using a diamond core bit. Works every time .can take a while but it's worth it
Solid helping of cancer from that plastic wrap
The ockham razor, when a solution bring more question than answers, it's probably not the right way 😅. For me, the first idea was it's last... the plexiglass
you should try a material called Aluminium oxynitride. Aluminium oxynitride is the hardest polycrystalline transparent ceramic available commercially
Diamond coring bit is what you need. Under water or with constant water flow . Slowly and little pressure. That's how to drill a hole in glass
Saw blades have a hardened piece of steel soldered to each tooth and that is what actually cuts. This dude could glue 1 to each tooth of that plastic saw and get the same affect.
I enjoy all of Waterjet Channel videos
Thanks, Mom!
And thank you too for making videos that always make me happy!
Also, can you try a marble saw blade?
And, I can't remember. Did you already make one out of resin?
Really nice variac, but the heat is only expanding the air between the layers.
Love the effort you put in. A couple of suggestions, I think speed would help cut alot better, also if you baked the glass in a kiln or or furnace for pottery would greatly help aswell. Sweet videos
Make your own janky version of bulletproof glass, the polycarbonate would keep it together and the glass would give it the sharpness. Would have to be thin sheets for both or it's not going on the saw. Could also make 3 and 5 ply versions.
An idea for another video... Mix up some of the garnet abrasive into some resin and maybe without teeth like a cut off wheel
1:14 all the case-pickers watching this thinking “welcome to logistics!”
add some silicon carbide grit inside your plastic wrap saw to make it scratch its way through the target
Scared of metal blade so creates an invisible blade that shatters into thousands of sharp pieces that fly everywhere, seems legit.
Now you understand why they make them from metal.
Use a clear plastic body with glass teeth inserts.
or better, glass dust
"I'm not a wrapper" ~ Supa hot fire
"Glass is glass and glass breaks" - Jerry
What happened to the old water jet guys?
11:28 i am like 99% sure I know why you have that problem. You see in an actual saw blade the teeth are ever so slightly bend outwards alternating left and right. Due to that the cut they make is a bit wider then the blade and that is pretty important. Without that you get way too much friction, which is why it was so slow, and the blade likes to get stuck. Another problem is that actual saw tooth are sharp,, and I am not sure if yours are. You might want to file them a bit.
“Heh what the sigma”
I always love this channel and this guy, keep doing what you do man, It's fun to watch👍
Thanks Waterjet Mom!
Well this seems needlessly dangerous
Use mold release spray.
You should cut uranium ore with the jet.
Great series. Absolutely terrifying.
Also use your riving knife!!
Thanks, Mom!
Thanks mom, I freakin' love you ❤ 👩
The genius of using Balsa, which is technically 'hardwood', and Pine, which is technically 'softwood'... Nice ironic in-joke there.
I've never seen SmallAnt and Waterjet Channel in the same room together. Just saying.
I Love my mom. she's awesome.
thanks mom
I never SAW this SAW coming
dad joke, take my like
@notthatbad42 I thought you said take my life lol
@@DanTehBro #angrylike or #angrylife
Polycarbonate + Silica sand when?
The easiest and probably best way to melt the plastic wrap would likely be in an oven. With some weight on top and setting the temperature just above the melting point you would get a gentle remolding of the plastic without damaging the polymer itself. Just don't do it in an oven you cook food in :) Biggest issue would be internal bubbles completely ruining the strength. The only DIY way to get them out that I am aware of is kneading and twisting with multiple reheats and thus forcing most of them out. A lot of manual work. The best thing to do whenever possible is to not get air mixed in at all - so for example cutting the whole roll lengthwise and just melting with the concaves pointing up so it melts nicely into a flat sheet. That should yield air-free clean LDPE for further shaping.
For glass - a really neat trick to be aware of is that glass (and any material prone to cracking in general) will have much less chance to shatter if you drill or cut it while submerged in water. Thin glass can even be roughly cut with a pair of scissors in this way. Also great on tiles you are afraid to ruin. Should also work for brittle plastics like acrylic, but I haven't personally tested that yet. The exact physics of this phenomenon is a little beyond my expertise - but it has to do with the higher equal pressure on all surfaces reducing shatter-points quite significantly.
You still can't cut or drill into tempered glass though - so don't even try. Or at least keep a broom handy to clean up the inevitable mess :P
Make the edge of the blade with the teeth out of metal (a ring) and the central disc out of polycarbonate. Solved.
I ALWAYS WONDERED WHY THEY DON'T MAKE THE SAW BLADES FROM PLASTIC ! NOW I KNOW WHY ! THANKS WATERJET CHANNEL !
Glass blade breaks on wood, you: "mmhh very strange..."
"We also tested what happebs when you touch a saw blade, and it's not pretty"
Geez this is why SawStop exists!
another episode of highly acclaimed series, thanks mom
yessss more saw blades
i love this channel icl its a shame the views are going down bc the content is worth sm more
To cut glass, one typically uses a ceramic tool, but its to cut a line to make a smooth fracture line
Did you use mold release?
That plexiglass may not be a hood saw blade but it was almost a decent grinding wheel
lol you guys are using tools from Harbor Freight! Hella fun video to watch
Thanks mom!!!
SawStops are lit.
You should install metal teeth on the plexi sawblade if the purpose is to just see through the blade
Pine is a softwood, so you know
15:40 ERM WHAT THE SIGMA
a diamond saw blade that would be see-through and durable
a solid 10 seconds passed before i realised it was glass in the thumbnail
Thanks mom
dam i miss the good ol boys...
Thanks Mom
The glass saw blade test 2 did well it almost cut all the way through
The "Im not a (w)rapper" reference was excellent, but i doubt anyone remembers that legend
I broke up with my ex girl, here's her number
SIKE
THAT'S THE WRONG NUMBER
@@g2sei Exaaaactly
I want more of these can _______ be used as a saw videos. They're fascinating
Also thanks mam!