Hello, thank you for the great videos. I have a question... For a 5 year old roof with multiple leaks, can I spray a coat of elastomeric coat across the entire roof? Or is there a better method and/or a better type of sealer? Thank you!
The life of the neoprene seals is 20-25 years if the screws have been seated onto the roof correctly. The specification by the roofing manufacturers is to put both a 6mm diameter bead of caulking at the lower end of the lap joint, AND a 3mm bead covering the top cut edge of the underlap sheet. This prevents condensation running down inside the top roof sheet and into the overlap area. Without this extra bead the water will accumulate again in the joint and it will cause rust. If you just seal the top surface it won't stop the water and rust accumulating again.
Great video..one question, on an R-panel roof if it looks somewhat bend in or stepped on hard..like someone stepped on it very hard or hit it with something heavy hard and now it looks like bend downwards and to the sides where it was stepped on....will this case the R-panel to leak?
Great video! I've watched several of your videos, all good. I'am currently repairing my flat roof motorcycle trailer. It's a large one piece metal roof with with a 90 degree drip edge down both sides and across the back. I've removed the drip edge, unscrewed the roof and wire wheeled all components down to bare metal. I reinstalled the roof panel with Solar Seal 900 and screwed back down. I now have to reinstall the drip edge. My thought was to Solar seal that down as well. I would like to use the Bergstrom Poly sealer and tape down the top side of the drip edge where it meets the roof, which would be the first line of defense against water. I'm just not sure which of the two, Turbo Poly or Silicone Seal to use. Also any thoughts as far as using Solar seal on bottom side of drip edge or should I use some other product? Thanks for your time, your advice would be greatly appreciated.
Not familiar with Solar Seal. Too many products on the market to keep track of. Turbo Poly Seal works very well on transitions where there is a vertical surface. If repairs have to be made where it is very flat, then Super Silicone Seal will work too. You get more milage per gallon with Super Silicone Seal. Turbo is very strong, Super Silicone is very flexible. They both adhere well to metal, rubber roofs. Turbo does not work well on glass, plastic and EPDM Rubber whereas Super Silicone Seal is excellent for that.
@@FlatRoofDoctor Thanks Doc, that was an amazingly quick response. I'll go with your advice on the silicone seal and get back to you soon. God Bless You, America and all our troops this holiday weekend!!!
You probably have already gone ahead and done the work, Sorry for the late reply I am not familiar with Solar Seal. Here is my thought. Apply the solar seal under the drip edge and rivet the drip edge to the existing metal. Then use Super Silicone Seal with the fleece to make the transition between the drip edge and the metal roof.
If there is rust on the roof surface it is likely to have spread to the underside. You do get condensation on the underside of a roof especially if no building paper or similar is used underneath the roof. As rust will continue so if you can, lift the roof iron and treat and seal any rust on the underside. Corrugated iron roofs will rust where lapped if it hasn’t been done properly, and also on edges due to capillary action and weather driving water underneath the edges. No one does it but a roof will last the longest if painted both sides. But it is important to paint the lapping areas both sides and also I would paint the underside of the edges where they empty into the gutter. I have an internal galvanised iron box gutter and on inspection it was a shocking job. The laps were not painted and the channel was only half painted. Luckily while it was rusted it hadn’t gone through so I have cleaned it up rust treated it applied a waterproof membrane sealer and painted with a good anti rust paint. But I still have the problem of the rust continuing on the underside and short of going into the crawl space to access not a lot I can do other than lift the gutter which will be a dreadful job. (The roofers nailed the roof batons over the guttering). The only other option is to insert a sleeve to fit inside the existing gutter to take the water but it will not be an easy option either.
Hello, I have an 18 year old double torch down commercial roof(both layers were torched down). Some of my seems are separating, anywhere from an ⅛ inch to ½ inch. The whole roof is 10,000 square feet it is happening on about 5% of the roof. What do you suggest for repairing it? Possibly reheating seems? You comment would be much appreciated.
Can you send some pics of the seams and also seams where there was some bleed out. I can't understand the inconsistency. There should be a bleed out of at least an 1/8". Some overheat it and bleed out over an inch. Tel. is 203 858 0080. Send pics to this number
I have applied a silicone coating to the entire roof (Tropicool) and am still experiencing leaks at the seams. What should I do? Caulk won’t stick now that it is coated, but this silicone coating isn’t doing enough. This is a bit different though because it is on a school bus. Any ideas?
You should have taken care of leaks before doing any coating. Just to coat entire surface in the hopes of fixing a leak is never a good idea. Thats why I show how to take care of leaks instead.
@@FlatRoofDoctor yes, I did try to fix all of them before. We just had a couple new ones pop up that weren’t leaking before. Any suggestions if the coating is already down? Could use your expertise!
Good Question 1. Newly installed roofs do not have fasteners like in this video and will not need such treatment. 2. If you understand where the leak originate from, then maybe it is easier to seal the fasteners only. 3. The video is intended for those who is beyond of just fixing the fastener leak but need to take care of the seam that has rusted because the issue was never fixed
I was watching many many videos on how to inatall metal roof....and a saw many with no hidden screws, and mostly all of them use no sealing...i was this is not right, this will leak... Now i am seen a couple of videos with roof leaking., and how to fix it.
Hey Mario When you install a new metal roof with new screws and neoprene washers, then it will not leak for many years. The neoprene washers will eventually harden, crack, and shrink, relieving the pressure that was exerted by the screw onto the washer and metal surface. This will make the screw feel loose. Since there is no more pressure, water will leak in at the screw. One way to remedy this is to replace the screws with a larger one with new washers. The other fix we sometimes use is to dab Turbo Poly Seal over the screw and washer. I hope this made sense? Naas
You shouldn't put screws in the valley, they should only be put on the ridge. Most of the water runs down the valley, the surface shouldn't be penetrated.
If there is rust on the roof surface it is likely to have spread to the underside. You do get condensation on the underside of a roof especially if no building paper or similar is used underneath the roof. As rust will continue so if you can, lift the roof iron and treat and seal any rust on the underside. Corrugated iron roofs will rust where lapped if it hasn’t been done properly, and also on edges due to capillary action and weather driving water underneath the edges. No one does it but a roof will last the longest if painted both sides. But it is important to paint the lapping areas both sides and also I would paint the underside of the edges where they empty into the gutter. I have an internal galvanised iron box gutter and on inspection it was a shocking job. The laps were not painted and the channel was only half painted. Luckily while it was rusted it hadn’t gone through so I have cleaned it up rust treated it applied a waterproof membrane sealer and painted with a good anti rust paint. But I still have the problem of the rust continuing on the underside and short of going into the crawl space to access not a lot I can do other than lift the gutter which will be a dreadful job. (The roofers nailed the roof batons over the guttering). The only other option is to insert a sleeve to fit inside the existing gutter to take the water but it will not be an easy option either.
Thanks for explaining the 2 layers and how the water actually leaks
Hello, thank you for the great videos. I have a question... For a 5 year old roof with multiple leaks, can I spray a coat of elastomeric coat across the entire roof? Or is there a better method and/or a better type of sealer? Thank you!
how would you suggest sealing the seams on a residential metal roof where aesthetics matter and I cannot have big white stripes across my roof?
Nice solution!
Sometimes you use turbo polyseal and sometimes super silicone seal in what seems to me as the same type of job , what is the product difference
Great insightful video!!! ❤
Question. Who did you use to make the 3d animation for this video? Thanks again for the amazing content!
The life of the neoprene seals is 20-25 years if the screws have been seated onto the roof correctly. The specification by the roofing manufacturers is to put both a 6mm diameter bead of caulking at the lower end of the lap joint, AND a 3mm bead covering the top cut edge of the underlap sheet. This prevents condensation running down inside the top roof sheet and into the overlap area. Without this extra bead the water will accumulate again in the joint and it will cause rust.
If you just seal the top surface it won't stop the water and rust accumulating again.
How long does this silicone seal last?
Thank you
That's a thick layer of seal.. Wouldn't it just encourage the water to well up and sit there? Take the washers off and silicone around the screw.
where do I buy this product in the UK?
Thanks for this explanation!!!!!!
You bet!
Fantastic info and fantastic thanks
Welcome
Great video..one question, on an R-panel roof if it looks somewhat bend in or stepped on hard..like someone stepped on it very hard or hit it with something heavy hard and now it looks like bend downwards and to the sides where it was stepped on....will this case the R-panel to leak?
Thanks for the video, great stuff on your channel.
Glad you enjoy it!
Great video! I've watched several of your videos, all good. I'am currently repairing my flat roof motorcycle trailer. It's a large one piece metal roof with with a 90 degree drip edge down both sides and across the back. I've removed the drip edge, unscrewed the roof and wire wheeled all components down to bare metal. I reinstalled the roof panel with Solar Seal 900 and screwed back down. I now have to reinstall the drip edge. My thought was to Solar seal that down as well. I would like to use the Bergstrom Poly sealer and tape down the top side of the drip edge where it meets the roof, which would be the first line of defense against water. I'm just not sure which of the two, Turbo Poly or Silicone Seal to use. Also any thoughts as far as using Solar seal on bottom side of drip edge or should I use some other product? Thanks for your time, your advice would be greatly appreciated.
Not familiar with Solar Seal. Too many products on the market to keep track of. Turbo Poly Seal works very well on transitions where there is a vertical surface. If repairs have to be made where it is very flat, then Super Silicone Seal will work too. You get more milage per gallon with Super Silicone Seal. Turbo is very strong, Super Silicone is very flexible. They both adhere well to metal, rubber roofs. Turbo does not work well on glass, plastic and EPDM Rubber whereas Super Silicone Seal is excellent for that.
@@FlatRoofDoctor Thanks Doc, that was an amazingly quick response. I'll go with your advice on the silicone seal and get back to you soon. God Bless You, America and all our troops this holiday weekend!!!
You probably have already gone ahead and done the work, Sorry for the late reply
I am not familiar with Solar Seal. Here is my thought.
Apply the solar seal under the drip edge and rivet the drip edge to the existing metal. Then use Super Silicone Seal with the fleece to make the transition between the drip edge and the metal roof.
If there is rust on the roof surface it is likely to have spread to the underside. You do get condensation on the underside of a roof especially if no building paper or similar is used underneath the roof. As rust will continue so if you can, lift the roof iron and treat and seal any rust on the underside. Corrugated iron roofs will rust where lapped if it hasn’t been done properly, and also on edges due to capillary action and weather driving water underneath the edges. No one does it but a roof will last the longest if painted both sides. But it is important to paint the lapping areas both sides and also I would paint the underside of the edges where they empty into the gutter. I have an internal galvanised iron box gutter and on inspection it was a shocking job. The laps were not painted and the channel was only half painted. Luckily while it was rusted it hadn’t gone through so I have cleaned it up rust treated it applied a waterproof membrane sealer and painted with a good anti rust paint. But I still have the problem of the rust continuing on the underside and short of going into the crawl space to access not a lot I can do other than lift the gutter which will be a dreadful job. (The roofers nailed the roof batons over the guttering). The only other option is to insert a sleeve to fit inside the existing gutter to take the water but it will not be an easy option either.
I never use a gasket on the lap seam high humidity areas metal has condensation water will build up
how do u fix at the cap. wind has blown all of the butyl away how to repair this.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!
Wow thank u
Tried silicon on top of the screws, leaked after a week.
I've just bought a box of new screws, gotta change them all over..
When do you use Super Silicone Seal and when do you use Turbo Poly Seal?
Hello, I have an 18 year old double torch down commercial roof(both layers were torched down). Some of my seems are separating, anywhere from an ⅛ inch to ½ inch. The whole roof is 10,000 square feet it is happening on about 5% of the roof. What do you suggest for repairing it? Possibly reheating seems? You comment would be much appreciated.
Can you send some pics of the seams and also seams where there was some bleed out. I can't understand the inconsistency. There should be a bleed out of at least an 1/8". Some overheat it and bleed out over an inch. Tel. is 203 858 0080. Send pics to this number
Hi doctor, can I ask how to clean the brush after applying turbo poly? Do I need to buy special cleaning product?
Hey Rena
You should use a disposable brush. They only around $1.50 from home Depot.
What size type fasteners do you recommend?
One size up from was initially used
I have applied a silicone coating to the entire roof (Tropicool) and am still experiencing leaks at the seams. What should I do? Caulk won’t stick now that it is coated, but this silicone coating isn’t doing enough.
This is a bit different though because it is on a school bus. Any ideas?
You should have taken care of leaks before doing any coating. Just to coat entire surface in the hopes of fixing a leak is never a good idea. Thats why I show how to take care of leaks instead.
@@FlatRoofDoctor yes, I did try to fix all of them before. We just had a couple new ones pop up that weren’t leaking before. Any suggestions if the coating is already down? Could use your expertise!
Why then not do it as a prevention before it starts to leak?
Good Question
1. Newly installed roofs do not have fasteners like in this video and will not need such treatment.
2. If you understand where the leak originate from, then maybe it is easier to seal the fasteners only.
3. The video is intended for those who is beyond of just fixing the fastener leak but need to take care of the seam that has rusted because the issue was never fixed
I was watching many many videos on how to inatall metal roof....and a saw many with no hidden screws, and mostly all of them use no sealing...i was this is not right, this will leak...
Now i am seen a couple of videos with roof leaking., and how to fix it.
Hey Mario
When you install a new metal roof with new screws and neoprene washers, then it will not leak for many years.
The neoprene washers will eventually harden, crack, and shrink, relieving the pressure that was exerted by the screw onto the washer and metal surface. This will make the screw feel loose. Since there is no more pressure, water will leak in at the screw.
One way to remedy this is to replace the screws with a larger one with new washers.
The other fix we sometimes use is to dab Turbo Poly Seal over the screw and washer.
I hope this made sense?
Naas
Great video sweetheart love ❤️
Thank you so much!!
You shouldn't put screws in the valley, they should only be put on the ridge. Most of the water runs down the valley, the surface shouldn't be penetrated.
Actually that's not 100% right, they call out both
The water will sure get stuck on that thick seal and oxide the roof😂😂😂
Just m seal is enogh
The Bengali way of doing it
Maybe African
If there is rust on the roof surface it is likely to have spread to the underside. You do get condensation on the underside of a roof especially if no building paper or similar is used underneath the roof. As rust will continue so if you can, lift the roof iron and treat and seal any rust on the underside. Corrugated iron roofs will rust where lapped if it hasn’t been done properly, and also on edges due to capillary action and weather driving water underneath the edges. No one does it but a roof will last the longest if painted both sides. But it is important to paint the lapping areas both sides and also I would paint the underside of the edges where they empty into the gutter. I have an internal galvanised iron box gutter and on inspection it was a shocking job. The laps were not painted and the channel was only half painted. Luckily while it was rusted it hadn’t gone through so I have cleaned it up rust treated it applied a waterproof membrane sealer and painted with a good anti rust paint. But I still have the problem of the rust continuing on the underside and short of going into the crawl space to access not a lot I can do other than lift the gutter which will be a dreadful job. (The roofers nailed the roof batons over the guttering). The only other option is to insert a sleeve to fit inside the existing gutter to take the water but it will not be an easy option either.